Discover Our Product Range

Trending Now

LOVED BY PETS WORLDWIDE

A Word from our Pet Lovers

@LordsAndLabradors

Shop Our Instagram

News & Helpful Guides

Information Hub

  • Puppy vaccinations UK: schedule, costs and when your puppy can go outside
    09.11.26 November 09, 2026 Getting A Puppy Featured

    Puppy vaccinations UK: schedule, costs and when your puppy can go outside

    Getting your head around puppy injections is one of those early jobs that feels a little overwhelming at first, especially when you’re also juggling sleep schedules, toilet training, and approximately one thousand other new things. This guide walks you through the UK vaccination schedule, what each vet visit typically involves, and how much to budget before you go. You’ll also find practical advice on when your puppy can safely go outside, and how to make the most of those in-between weeks at home. Puppy injections: what the schedule looks like and why it matters Bringing a new puppy home is one of the most exciting things you’ll ever do, and puppy injections are one of the first big items on the to-do list. They can feel like a formality in the whirlwind of those early weeks, but they genuinely matter. Without them, young puppies are vulnerable to some serious — and sometimes fatal — diseases, including parvovirus, distemper, and leptospirosis. Vaccinations give your puppy’s immune system the information it needs to fight back if it ever comes into contact with these illnesses. In the UK, most puppies follow a two-visit schedule. The first set of jabs usually happens at around eight weeks old, often just before or shortly after your puppy comes home. The second visit typically follows two to four weeks later, somewhere between ten and twelve weeks. Together, these two rounds of puppy vaccinations build up the protection your puppy needs to safely start exploring the world. At the first appointment, your vet will usually vaccinate against distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus, and parainfluenza. The second visit often adds leptospirosis, though some vets include this at both appointments depending on the vaccine brand they use. It’s always worth asking your vet exactly what’s covered at each visit, since schedules can vary a little between practices. Your vet may also adjust the timing based on your puppy’s breed, size, or general health. Larger breeds sometimes follow a slightly different programme, and if anything came up at your puppy’s initial health check, your vet will factor that in too. This is all perfectly normal, so try not to worry if your neighbour’s cockapoo had a different timeline to your Labrador — puppies aren’t one-size-fits-all. For a fuller picture of which vaccines are recommended in the UK and why each one earns its place, our guide to recommended dog vaccinations is a great place to start. When do puppies get vaccinated in the UK? A simple week-by-week guide Most vets in the UK follow a simple two-appointment schedule for puppy injections, so there’s no need to feel daunted before you’ve even started. Timing can shift a little depending on your vet practice, the vaccine brand, or how old your puppy is when you bring them home — but your vet will talk you through what’s right for your specific pup right from that first visit. Here’s how the typical puppy vaccine schedule in the UK usually looks: 6 to 8 weeks old: The first puppy jabs are usually given around this age, typically covering distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis, and leptospirosis. If your puppy came from a breeder, they may have already had this first round, so bring any paperwork you were given — it matters more than you’d think. 10 to 12 weeks old (roughly 2 to 4 weeks later): The second set of puppy injections completes the course and builds the stronger, longer-lasting immunity your puppy needs. 1 to 2 weeks after the second jab: This is the window most owners are counting down to. Your vet will give you a specific date, and that’s your official green light for the outside world. Good to know: Full protection usually kicks in around one to two weeks after the second vaccination. Your vet will confirm the exact date at that final appointment, so you’ll know precisely when the adventures can begin. If you adopt a puppy after eight weeks, or if there are any health considerations along the way, your vet may tweak the timing slightly. Every puppy is different, and that’s completely fine. Heading into that first appointment soon? Our guide to your puppy’s first vet visit covers what to bring, what to expect, and how to make it as smooth as possible. How much are puppy vaccinations in the UK? What to budget for Puppy vaccinations in the UK typically cost between £30 and £60 per injection, with the full primary course usually landing somewhere between £60 and £150 in total. That’s quite a range, but a few straightforward things explain the difference. What affects the price of puppy jabs: Whether your vet charges per appointment or bundles the course into a puppy package plan Your location — practices in London and other cities tend to charge more than rural ones Whether a health check is included alongside the vaccination When your puppy’s booster falls and whether it’s covered by the same package Optional extras like the kennel cough vaccine, which is given separately as a nasal spray Single-visit fees vs. puppy package plans Some vets charge per visit, so you pay as you go. Others offer puppy health packages that bundle both rounds of injections, health checks, and sometimes a booster or flea and worm treatment into one upfront cost. Packages can look pricier at first, but they often work out better value overall and make budgeting a lot simpler from day one. The reassuring thing about puppy vaccinations is that they’re a one-time foundation, not an ongoing expense. Once your puppy is fully protected, you’re only looking at annual boosters to keep things topped up. It’s also worth knowing that some pet insurance policies can help with broader vet costs, so if you haven’t looked into cover yet, our guide to puppy insurance is a genuinely useful place to start before your first appointment. When can a puppy go outside after injections? Walks, toilets and safe socialising Most puppies can head out into public spaces around one to two weeks after their second puppy injection, which typically falls somewhere between 11 and 13 weeks old. Your vet will give you the most accurate steer based on your puppy’s specific vaccine schedule, so it’s always worth asking at that second appointment. In the meantime, there’s plenty you can do to keep things moving. Safe options before your puppy’s vaccinations are complete: Carry your puppy outside — tuck them into your arms or pop them in a carrier bag and head out into the world. They’ll soak up new sounds, smells and sights without touching ground where unknown dogs may have been Use your own garden for toilet trips — your garden is generally low risk, especially if no unvaccinated dogs have access to it Invite vaccinated, healthy dogs over — letting your puppy meet calm, friendly dogs on home turf is genuinely brilliant for their development Look into puppy classes that ask for vaccination proof — many good trainers run sessions where all the pups are at a similar stage, making them a safe and sociable option For toilet training specifically, your garden really is your greatest asset right now. Getting your puppy outside regularly — even before the full course is done — helps build good habits from day one. Just keep to your own outdoor space and steer clear of areas where unfamiliar dogs tend to pass through, like communal grass verges or the edges of local parks. It’s also worth remembering that early socialisation matters just as much as the puppy injections themselves, and the waiting period doesn’t have to feel like a standstill. Gentle exposure to everyday life — visitors popping by, different sounds, new textures, a short car ride — all adds up. Our guide to how to socialise a puppy is full of practical ideas that work even before the final jab, so your puppy can meet the world feeling curious and confident rather than overwhelmed by it. What to do between vet visits: calm routines, rest and puppy essentials The weeks between your puppy’s appointments are quieter than you might expect, but they’re far from wasted. With walks off the table until the puppy injections are complete, this window is actually a brilliant opportunity to build the calm, consistent routines that will serve your dog for life. Here are some simple ways to make the most of this stay-at-home period: Stick to a loose daily rhythm. Puppies settle more quickly when feeding, napping, and play happen at predictable times. Keep handling gentle and regular. Touch your puppy’s paws, ears, and mouth often so vet visits feel familiar rather than stressful. Wash your hands before and after contact. Until puppy vaccinations are complete, good hygiene habits help keep unnecessary risk low. Offer calm indoor enrichment. Snuffle mats, soft chews, and short training games tire a puppy out mentally without overdoing it physically. Contain their space thoughtfully. A smaller, defined area is easier to keep clean and gives your puppy a real sense of security while they’re still finding their feet. Clean bedding and surfaces regularly. Puppies are wonderfully messy, and with their immune systems still developing, fresh and hygienic spaces genuinely matter. Getting your puppy zone set up before the first jab makes everything smoother. A cosy bed, a well-sized crate, and a playpen to keep things contained can turn a corner of your living room into a calm little haven. Our puppy essentials collection covers all of this, including easy-clean accessories built to handle the inevitable chaos of early puppyhood. A puppy who feels settled at home tends to be calmer at the vet too. Get the foundations right now, and they’ll be ready to take on the outside world with real confidence once those final puppy jabs are done. Your next steps after the final jab Once the final puppy jab is done, it genuinely feels like a little milestone worth celebrating. Your puppy is protected, you’ve navigated the full vaccination schedule, and the world is now theirs to explore. That said, take it gradually. Short walks on quieter streets are ideal for the first week or two. Let your puppy sniff, dawdle, and take everything in at their own pace — new sounds, surfaces, and smells are a lot to absorb all at once. Save the busy parks and bustling high streets for a little later, once they’re finding their feet. If you’ve got a Christmas puppy, the timing can feel a bit chaotic with everything else going on. The same rules still apply though: keep early outings calm, avoid anything too overwhelming, and build their confidence bit by bit rather than diving in at the deep end. Keep your vet in the loop if anything seems off after the injections or once walks are underway. Unusual lethargy, limping, or a sudden dip in appetite are all worth a quick call. Vets genuinely don’t mind hearing from you — that’s what they’re there for. It’s also worth remembering that a settled, secure puppy at home makes for a braver, more curious dog outside. If you’re still working on those early routines, our puppy settling-in essentials can help you build a calm, cosy base for them to come home to after every outing. The tricky bit is behind you. Now the real fun begins. Frequently Asked Questions What happens if I don’t vaccinate my puppy? If you don’t vaccinate your puppy, they stay vulnerable to serious illnesses like parvovirus, distemper and leptospirosis. These diseases can be life-threatening, and without those early jabs your puppy doesn’t have the immune protection they need to safely start exploring beyond home. Can my 8 week old puppy go outside? Yes, but only in low-risk ways until their vaccinations are complete. At eight weeks old, your puppy can usually go into your own garden for toilet trips, be carried outside for socialisation, and meet healthy vaccinated dogs at home, but public spaces should wait until after the second jab.

    By Adele Busby

    Read more
  • Joint supplements for dogs: glucosamine, green lipped mussel and more
    06.11.26 November 06, 2026 Health Featured

    Joint supplements for dogs: glucosamine, green lipped mussel and more

    Whether your dog is showing the first signs of slowing down or you simply want to protect their joints before any problems start, finding the best joint supplements for dogs UK pet parents can actually rely on is harder than it looks. This guide cuts through the noise on ingredients like glucosamine and green lipped mussel, explains how to match a supplement to your dog’s age and mobility needs, and helps you figure out which format and formula will realistically fit into your daily routine. What to look for in the best joint supplements for dogs in the UK If you’ve noticed your dog taking a little longer to get going on morning walks, or pausing before jumping up onto the sofa, you’re not imagining it. Joint stiffness tends to become more noticeable as the temperature drops, and for a lot of owners, that’s the moment they start thinking seriously about joint supplements for the first time. But finding the best joint supplements for dogs in the UK means looking beyond the packaging. There’s a lot on the market, from budget pots in the supermarket to vet-formulated chews with proper clinical backing, and the gap in quality can be significant. Ingredients are where it really counts. Glucosamine for dogs is probably the one you’ve come across most, but green lipped mussel, omega-3s, and hyaluronic acid all do different jobs: supporting cartilage, reducing inflammation, keeping joints lubricated. A well-made supplement will usually combine several of these, rather than leaning on a single ingredient to do all the work. Your dog’s age and lifestyle matter just as much as the formula itself. A two-year-old Labrador who runs daily has very different needs to a nine-year-old spaniel already showing signs of stiffness. Format is part of the equation too, because the best supplement in the world is useless if your dog turns their nose up at it. It’s also worth being clear on what you’re actually trying to achieve. Everyday maintenance looks quite different to active joint support for a dog already slowing down. Our dog wellbeing range covers a variety of needs, and the sections below will help you figure out exactly what your dog needs before you commit to anything. Glucosamine, green lipped mussel and other ingredients: what they actually do Most good joint supplements don’t rely on a single star ingredient — they work because several active compounds are doing different jobs at the same time. Think of it like a team, where each player covers something the others can’t. Here are the five you’ll most commonly see on labels, and what they’re actually there for: Glucosamine helps rebuild and maintain cartilage, the cushioning tissue that stops bones grinding against each other. Chondroitin works alongside glucosamine by drawing moisture into cartilage and helping it resist compression under load. MSM (methylsulfonylmethane) is a natural source of sulphur that supports connective tissue repair and helps calm inflammation at the joint. Green lipped mussel provides omega fatty acids that support a healthy inflammation response and help keep joints lubricated from the inside out. Collagen gives structural support to the tendons, ligaments and cartilage that hold everything together as your dog moves. None of these ingredients is doing exactly the same job as another. That’s the point. Real joint health is multi-layered, and a supplement that only leads with one compound — however good that compound is — is only covering part of the picture. When you’re searching for the best joint supplements for dogs in the UK, it’s worth pausing on any label that shouts “with glucosamine!” but doesn’t say much else. That single-ingredient focus isn’t necessarily a red flag, but it’s worth asking what else is in there and why. The formulas that tend to earn the most trust are the ones built around complementary ingredients working together. YuMove’s range, available at Lords and Labradors, is a solid example of that approach — combining active compounds rather than relying on just the headline name to do all the work. Choosing the right supplement for a senior dog, a young active dog, or a dog already slowing down The best joint supplement for your dog has less to do with the strongest-sounding formula on the shelf and more to do with what your dog actually needs right now — based on their age, how active they are, and how they’re moving from day to day. Dog Profile What to Look For Additional Support Senior dog with morning stiffness High-strength glucosamine and green lipped mussel, anti-inflammatory omega-3s, easy-to-give format like a soft chew or liquid Joint care dog food, gentle low-impact exercise, warm sleeping spot Young active dog on long walks or agility Maintenance-dose glucosamine, green lipped mussel as a protective daily top-up, chew or powder mixed into meals Weight monitoring, varied terrain to reduce repetitive strain Dog already slowing down day-to-day Comprehensive formula with glucosamine, chondroitin, and MSM, palatable format to encourage consistency Vet check to rule out underlying issues, weight management, rest routine Practical tip: If your dog is already showing signs of stiffness or slowing down on walks, pairing joint supplements with the right diet can genuinely amplify the results. A food formulated for older dogs — with joint-supporting nutrients already built in — works alongside supplementation rather than duplicating it. Our senior dog food range is a good place to start if you’re thinking about a whole-routine approach. Joint support really does work best as part of a wider daily routine rather than a standalone fix. Before you buy, use the table above as a quick sense-check: does this formula match your dog’s profile, and is there anything else in their day that could be doing more? Get that right, and whichever product you choose will have a much better chance of making a real difference. Chews, powders or liquids: which format is easiest to give every day? The most effective joint supplement is the one your dog will actually eat every single day. Ingredients matter enormously, but if your dog spits it out or sends you into a ten-minute negotiation every morning, you’ve lost before you started. Format is what separates a supplement that genuinely works from one that quietly gathers dust at the back of a cupboard. Chews: Usually the easiest win. Most dogs treat them like a reward, so you can hand one over with breakfast or tuck it inside a piece of chicken for the suspicious types. Long-lasting dog chews can pull double duty here, supporting joint health while giving your dog something satisfying to work through. Practical tip: offer the chew before the meal, so hunger is firmly on your side. Powders: A solid choice for dogs on wet food — just stir it straight in. The challenge is the nose-to-bowl inspector who clocks anything unusual immediately. Practical tip: mix the powder into something pungent like tinned sardines or warm bone broth to mask it completely. Liquids: Easy to dose precisely, though palatability can be hit or miss depending on the product. Practical tip: drizzle over food rather than stirring in, so the scent has a moment to disperse before your dog tucks in. For most dogs, especially fussy ones, a palatable chew tends to win simply because it actually gets given. When you’re comparing the best joint supplements for dogs UK, daily compliance is the factor most owners underestimate — usually until several weeks have already slipped by. How to tell if a joint supplement is good value, not just good marketing Price per pack is rarely the best way to judge value in joint supplements. What actually matters is how much of the good stuff your dog gets each day, and whether it’s something you can realistically keep up long term. When you’re comparing options, these are the things worth looking at closely: Cost per daily dose, not the headline price. A larger pack at a higher upfront cost can work out far cheaper day to day than a budget option that runs out in three weeks. Active ingredient concentration per serving. Look for the mg of glucosamine, green lipped mussel, or other key actives listed clearly on the label. Vague blends with no breakdown are a red flag. Ingredient form and bioavailability. Hydrolysed collagen, for example, is absorbed more readily than standard forms. How an ingredient is processed makes a real difference to what your dog actually gets from it. Palatability. The most effective supplement in the world is useless if your dog turns their nose up at it after day two. Suitability for ongoing use. Joint health is a long game. A formula built for daily, long-term support is worth more than something that works short term and fades. Worth knowing: A supplement at £35 with a full therapeutic dose can be better value than a £20 option dosed so low you’d need double the serving to get the same effect. Premium doesn’t always mean overpriced. When a higher price reflects a cleaner formula, better absorption, or a format your dog actually enjoys, it earns its place in your routine. To keep costs manageable without cutting corners, it’s worth exploring how you can subscribe and save on joint supplements over time. How to narrow it down and pick the best joint care for your dog The best joint supplements for dogs UK families actually stick with are rarely the most expensive or the most elaborate. They are the ones that slot into real life, that your dog happily takes, and that you actually remember to give. Start by thinking about where your dog is right now. A young, high-energy Labrador or German Shepherd does well on a maintenance supplement built around glucosamine and omega-3s — something that lays a solid foundation before any problems develop. But if your dog is already taking the stairs more carefully, struggling to find a comfortable position, or stiff on cold mornings, it is worth looking for a higher-strength formula that brings in green lipped mussel, turmeric, or hyaluronic acid for more targeted support. Then be honest about format. Chews work brilliantly for food-motivated dogs and are easy to build into a daily routine. Powders are a quiet win if you already add wet food or warm broth to the bowl. Pick what suits your household rather than what looks most impressive on the shelf. Once you have found something promising, check the dosage, confirm the active ingredient levels are clearly stated, and look for GMP-certified manufacturing. If a product is vague about what is actually in it, that tells you something. And do not stop at the supplement itself. Joint care works best as a whole picture. A well-designed orthopaedic bed can make a real difference to how your dog feels overnight, when joints tend to stiffen most. If that is something you are thinking about, our guide to the best orthopaedic beds for dogs with arthritis is a good place to start. Frequently Asked Questions What is the best bone and joint supplement for dogs? The best bone and joint supplement for dogs is usually one that combines several proven ingredients, rather than relying on just one. Look for a formula with glucosamine, chondroitin, MSM, green lipped mussel or omega-3s, in a format your dog will happily take every day, whether that is a chew, powder or liquid. What are the early signs of arthritis in dogs? Early signs of arthritis in dogs often show up as small changes in how they move day to day. You might notice stiffness on cold mornings, taking longer to get going on walks, pausing before jumping onto the sofa, using the stairs more carefully, or generally slowing down and struggling to get comfortable.

    By Adele Busby

    Read more
  • Best food for senior dogs: what changes as your dog ages
    05.11.26 November 05, 2026 Owning a Dog Featured

    Best food for senior dogs: what changes as your dog ages

    Getting the best senior dog food in the UK for your dog is less about finding the most popular bag on the shelf and more about understanding what’s actually changing inside your dog as they age. From metabolism and muscle mass to joint comfort and digestion, the needs of an older dog are genuinely different from those of a younger one. This guide walks you through what those changes mean in practice, how to choose the right food for your dog’s size and health, and what to look for once you’ve made the switch. What actually changes in your senior dog’s diet? As dogs get older, their bodies quietly shift in ways that make a real difference to what they need from their food. It is not always obvious at first. Maybe your dog is leaving a bit more in the bowl, or gaining weight despite eating the same amount they always have. These small changes are worth paying attention to. The biggest shift is metabolism. Senior dogs burn fewer calories than they did in their younger years, which means food that worked brilliantly at four can start causing weight gain by eight or nine. At the same time, muscle mass naturally decreases with age, so getting enough quality protein actually becomes more important, not less. Digestion tends to get more sensitive too. Some older dogs develop softer stools or start reacting to foods they used to handle without any issue. Their gut simply is not as resilient as it once was, so easily digestible ingredients and a consistent routine make a genuine difference. Joint health is another big piece of the puzzle. Many senior dogs slow down because movement becomes uncomfortable, and the right food can help from the inside out. Ingredients like glucosamine and omega-3 fatty acids, found naturally in fish oils, support joint function and keep them moving more comfortably day to day. The truth is, finding the best senior dog food in the UK means thinking about your specific dog: their size, their weight, their energy levels, and any health niggles they already have. A blanket “senior” label is a starting point, not the whole answer. You can explore a range of options built around these changing needs at the Lords and Labradors senior dog food collection. Should you choose senior dry dog food, wet food, or a mix? There’s no single right answer here — and honestly, what works brilliantly for one older dog might not suit another at all. The best senior dog food for your dog often comes down to the individual: their dental comfort, how well they’re staying hydrated, and whether they’ve started giving their bowl the side-eye at dinner time. Dry Food Wet Food Mixed Feeding Hydration Lower moisture content High moisture, great for hydration Good balance overall Dental support Gentle abrasion can help Softer, less mechanical action Depends on ratio used Palatability Can lose appeal with age Often more tempting for fussy eaters Boosts interest in dry food Convenience Easy to store and measure Shorter shelf life once opened Requires a little more planning A mixed approach tends to work especially well when: Your dog has become pickier and needs something more enticing in the bowl Dental discomfort or missing teeth make crunching harder than it used to be They’re not drinking enough and need that extra moisture boost from their food Many senior dog owners find that combining both formats gives them the flexibility to adapt as things change — because with older dogs, things do change. What they happily ate at nine might not cut it at twelve. If you want to weigh up the options in more detail, our guide on wet or dry food for dogs is a helpful next step. Which ingredients matter most in dog food for older dogs? Reading a dog food label shouldn’t feel like homework, but a few key checks can make choosing the best senior dog food UK pet parents can buy much simpler. One of the biggest myths in senior dog nutrition is that older dogs always need less protein. In many cases, that’s not true. Senior dogs often do best with good-quality, highly digestible protein to help maintain muscle, especially if they’re slowing down but still active on walks and pottering about at home. Here’s what to look for: High-quality digestible protein — Named animal proteins like chicken, turkey, lamb, or salmon are a good sign. These help support lean muscle and are usually easier for older dogs to digest. Controlled calorie density — If your dog is less active than they used to be, slightly lower calorie food can help prevent gradual weight gain without making them feel short-changed at mealtimes. Glucosamine and chondroitin — These are popular additions in the best dog food for senior dogs because they support joints and everyday mobility, especially in larger breeds. Prebiotic fibre — Ingredients such as chicory root or beet pulp can help keep digestion regular, which is handy if your older dog has become a bit more sensitive. Balanced minerals — A well-balanced recipe matters for overall senior health. Phosphorus is one mineral worth noting, particularly if your dog has kidney concerns or your vet has advised you to pay closer attention to it. Label tip: Try to spot a named protein in the first one or two ingredients, such as “fresh chicken” or “salmon meal.” Vague terms like “meat derivatives” tell you far less about what’s actually in the bowl. If you’re also weighing up dry versus wet or mixed feeding, our guide to comparing dry, wet, raw, and fresh dog food can help you narrow it down. How to choose food for weight, mobility, and breed size Not every older dog needs the same bowlful. When you’re choosing the best senior dog food UK pet parents can buy, size matters just as much as age. Small senior dogs often stay quite bright and busy well into later life, but they can be fussy and harder to keep at a healthy weight if portions creep up. For them, smaller kibble, easy-to-chew wet food, or mixed feeding can work really well. You’re usually looking for steady energy, good-quality protein, and something gentle on digestion. Medium breeds tend to sit in the middle. They may still enjoy a decent walk, but perhaps they are not charging about quite like they used to. In this stage, the best dog food for senior dogs is often a balanced senior recipe with controlled calories and added joint support, especially if you’ve noticed stiffness after a longer outing. Large breeds usually need a bit more thought. They often reach their senior years sooner, and even a small amount of extra weight can put more strain on hips, elbows, and back joints. If your Labrador or Golden Retriever is slowing down on walks, a lower-calorie senior dog food UK formula with joint-supporting ingredients can be a sensible choice. Some dogs also do better on wet food or mixed feeding if chewing dry food has become less appealing. If you’re wondering what to feed an older dog who is less active or starting to gain weight, watch for these everyday clues: They are slower getting up after naps Their waist is less defined than it used to be Walks are shorter, steadier, and less enthusiastic They seem hungry, but need fewer calories Food helps, but comfort at home matters too. For bigger dogs especially, pairing the right diet with joint supplements and an orthopaedic bed can make daily life easier. It’s worth reading about the best orthopaedic dog beds for large dogs if your dog is stiff first thing in the morning. Signs the food is working — and when it isn’t Switching to a new food rarely shows results overnight — most senior dogs need two to four weeks to fully settle in. Knowing what to look for during that window makes it much easier to trust you’ve made the right call. Signs it’s working Stable or improving weight — no sudden loss or gain after the first couple of weeks Firm, consistent stools — a good indicator the digestive system is handling the change well Steady energy levels — alert and engaged, not flat or unusually tired Enthusiasm at mealtimes — finishing the bowl and hanging around hopefully afterwards A healthier coat — fur that looks shinier and feels softer is often one of the first things owners notice Signs to watch out for Loose stools or constipation — a little early disruption is normal, but it shouldn’t drag on Increased scratching or skin irritation — may point to a sensitivity to a particular ingredient Reluctance to eat — the odd off day happens, but consistently turning their nose up is worth taking seriously Unusual lethargy — more tired than their normal is a sign the food may not be meeting their needs Frequent bloating or gas — especially if it keeps coming back If any of these warning signs persist beyond a week or two, it’s worth revisiting your choice or speaking to your vet. Finding the right fit can take a little patience — every older dog is different. Browse our dog food range to explore options better suited to where your dog is right now. How to make the final choice with confidence Choosing the best senior dog food doesn’t have to feel like a research project. Start with what you already know. How old are they? Are they a small breed still trotting around happily at twelve, or a larger dog who’s noticeably slowing down at eight? Do they have any joint stiffness, a tendency to gain weight, or a stomach that needs a little extra care? Those answers alone will narrow things down quickly. Then think about format. If your dog happily eats dry food and digests it well, a quality senior kibble with solid protein levels and joint support is a great place to start. If they’re fussier, or just need more moisture in their diet, adding some wet food often makes a real difference to both appetite and hydration. Before you commit, take a look at the ingredients. Named meat sources, glucosamine, omega-3s, and age-appropriate fat levels are the things worth checking for in any senior dog food worth its salt. After that, try it and watch what happens. The right food tends to show up in the small things: a shinier coat, more comfortable movement, better digestion, a dog who seems that little bit more like themselves. The best dog food for senior dogs is simply the one your dog thrives on. Trust what you see. You know your dog better than anyone. Frequently Asked Questions Does senior dog food really make a difference? Yes, senior dog food can make a real difference because older dogs often need fewer calories, more digestible ingredients, and support for muscle, joints, and digestion. The right recipe can help with weight control, comfort, appetite, stool quality, and day-to-day energy as your dog ages. What is the best food for a 15-year-old dog? The best food for a 15-year-old dog is one that matches their individual needs, not just their age. Look for highly digestible protein, controlled calories, and joint-supporting ingredients, then choose dry, wet, or mixed feeding based on dental comfort, hydration, appetite, and how well they handle their meals.

    By Adele Busby

    Read more
  • Itchy skin in dogs: causes, relief and when to see a vet
    04.11.26 November 04, 2026 Health Featured

    Itchy skin in dogs: causes, relief and when to see a vet

    Dog itchy skin is one of those things that’s easy to dismiss at first — a bit of scratching here, some paw licking there — but it has a way of quietly getting worse if the cause goes unaddressed. In this article, we look at the most common reasons dogs get itchy, what you can safely do at home to ease mild irritation, and how to choose grooming products that genuinely support sensitive skin. We also cover the signs that tell you it’s time to stop troubleshooting on your own and get a vet involved. Why your dog’s itchy skin can get worse in winter If you’ve noticed your dog scratching a lot more once the heating goes on, you’re not imagining it. Winter is genuinely harder on dog skin than most people realise — and the culprit is often right inside your own home. Central heating strips moisture from the air fast. For dogs with longer or denser coats especially, that drop in humidity can leave skin feeling tight and flaky before you’ve even thought about picking up a grooming brush. Step outside and the situation doesn’t improve much either — cold air holds far less moisture than warm summer breezes, so their skin is effectively fighting on two fronts at once. The result tends to look familiar: a dog scratching a lot, rubbing their face along the sofa, or quietly licking their paws long after their walk is done. All of these can be early signs that their skin barrier is under strain. The harder part is working out whether what you’re seeing is normal seasonal adjustment or something that needs a closer look. A little extra scratching when the temperature first drops — no redness, no flaking, no broken skin — is usually nothing to worry about. Dogs adapt, and so does their skin. But if the scratching carries on week after week, if you notice dry or flaky patches, a coat that’s lost its shine, or your dog returning to the same spot over and over, that’s a pattern worth taking seriously. Itchy skin in dogs that persists through winter, rather than settling as they adjust, often points to genuine dryness that needs some active support. Grooming habits are worth revisiting at this time of year too. Small changes can make a real difference to how their coat and skin hold up through the colder months — our winter dog grooming tips are a good place to start. What’s behind dog itchy skin: the most common causes Dog itchy skin can stem from a surprising number of different places, and the tricky part is that many of them look almost identical on the surface. Flaking, redness, and constant scratching can show up whether your dog has dry skin, an allergy, or a flea problem — which is why pinpointing the cause before reaching for a remedy really matters. Common causes of itchy skin in dogs: Environmental and food allergies: Dog skin allergies are one of the most frequent culprits. Your dog might react to pollen, grass, dust mites, or certain proteins in their food, often showing up as generalised itching, red skin, or repeated paw licking. Some dogs are sensitive to just one trigger; others seem to react to several at once. Dry skin and flaking: Dog dry skin is especially common in winter, when central heating pulls moisture from the air indoors. You might notice flaky skin around the shoulders, back, or base of the tail, sometimes alongside a dull or rough-feeling coat. Fleas and parasites: Even a single flea bite can trigger intense itching in sensitive dogs, and you won’t always spot the fleas themselves. If you suspect this might be the cause, our guide on how to get rid of fleas on your dog is a helpful place to start. Grooming products and contact irritants: A new shampoo, a different washing powder on their bedding, or a product used in the garden can all trigger a reaction. If the scratching started after a change in routine, that timing is worth taking seriously. Skin conditions like dermatitis: Conditions such as atopic dermatitis cause ongoing inflammation and real discomfort. Rather than clearing up on their own, they tend to flare repeatedly and usually need longer-term management. Worth knowing: Some causes are short-lived. Switch back to your dog’s old shampoo and the irritation often settles within days. Persistent causes like allergies or dermatitis are a different story — they tend to keep coming back and generally need a vet’s input to manage properly. If your dog is scratching a lot or you keep catching them licking their paws, those are signals worth taking seriously. The sooner you understand what’s driving it, the sooner you can find something that genuinely helps. How to soothe itchy skin at home without making it worse When your dog’s itchy skin is mild, there’s quite a lot you can do at home before reaching for the phone. The key is knowing what actually helps — and what looks helpful but quietly makes things worse. Simple, safe ways to ease the itch at home: Bathe with care and the right frequency. Too many baths strip natural oils and leave skin more vulnerable, but a gentle routine with the right shampoo can bring real relief. Our guide to bathing your dog at home covers technique and how often to wash based on your dog’s coat and skin type. Choose an oatmeal-based or moisturising shampoo. These are far kinder to sensitive skin, helping to calm irritation rather than aggravate it. Brush regularly. A good brushing session distributes your dog’s natural oils along the coat, keeping skin more supple and less prone to dryness. It’s one of those small habits that adds up. Apply a vet-safe skin balm or a little coconut oil to dry, flaky patches. Used sparingly, both can offer short-term comfort for dog dry skin between washes. Run a humidifier where your dog sleeps. Central heating dries out the air, and that dryness affects your dog’s skin just as much as yours. It’s a quiet change that makes a noticeable difference over time. What to avoid: Over-bathing, which breaks down the skin’s natural protective barrier Human shampoos or household cleaning products anywhere near your dog’s coat Ignoring repeated paw licking — if your dog is constantly licking their paws, that’s worth investigating rather than waiting out Rubbing or scratching irritated patches, which can spread bacteria and worsen inflammation If your dog is scratching a lot, the skin looks red or broken, or things haven’t improved after a week, it’s time to call your vet. Consistent, gentle care really does make a difference. For many dogs dealing with skin allergies or dry skin, a few small tweaks to their grooming routine and home environment are the best starting point. Choosing the best dog shampoo for itchy skin and flaky coats Bath time might feel like the most straightforward part of your dog’s care routine, but when their skin is already dry, flaky, or irritated, the shampoo you choose genuinely makes a difference. The wrong formula can strip natural oils, aggravate sensitivity, or even trigger a reaction in dogs already prone to flare-ups. Getting this one right is a simple, practical way to support your dog’s comfort between vet visits. Look for these ingredients: Colloidal oatmeal — deeply calming for irritated, reactive skin Aloe vera — gentle and cooling, especially kind to inflamed skin Ceramides — help rebuild the skin’s natural barrier, particularly useful through winter Hypoallergenic, fragrance-free formulas — the safest choice for dogs with dog skin allergies or recurring sensitivity Gentle, pH-balanced bases — clean effectively without disrupting the skin’s natural balance What to avoid: Sulfates and harsh detergents — these strip moisture and worsen dog dry skin Artificial fragrances and dyes — frequent culprits behind irritation in sensitive dogs Tea tree oil — despite its natural reputation, it can be toxic to dogs at higher concentrations Human shampoos — even gentle ones are formulated for a completely different skin pH One thing worth knowing: medicated shampoos do have their place, but always use them with vet guidance. If your dog is scratching a lot, losing patches of fur, or showing any signs of infection, reaching for a medicated product without advice could mask something that actually needs treatment. Shampoo is just one part of a broader routine. Pair it with regular gentle grooming and good nutritional support, and you’ll see far better results over time. If you’re unsure where to start, our guide to choosing the right shampoo for your dog walks you through what to look for based on your dog’s coat type and skin needs. When itchy skin means it’s time to call the vet Most of us know the feeling of wondering whether the scratching has gone on a bit too long. If you’re asking yourself that, it’s usually worth listening to your gut. With dog itchy skin, a vet check is a good idea if your dog has been scratching for more than a couple of weeks with no real improvement. The same goes for visible skin changes like redness, sore patches, flaky areas, thickened skin, or hair loss. If your dog keeps licking paws, rubbing their face on the rug, or seems unable to settle, that often points to more than simple dryness. Broken skin is another clear sign to get help. Once scratching leads to scabs, bleeding, or open sores, infection can creep in quickly. What starts as mild itchy skin in dogs can turn into something much harder to manage if it’s left too long. Recurring flare-ups matter too. If things calm down for a week or two, then start all over again, there’s probably an underlying trigger. Dog skin allergies, parasites, yeast, bacteria, or even hormonal issues can all cause that stop-start pattern. Gentle home support can still be useful alongside veterinary advice, and it can help to keep a few dog grooming and healthcare essentials on hand for ongoing skin and coat care. It’s also worth watching for changes in behaviour. A dog who seems quieter than usual, off their food, restless at night, or snappy when you touch a certain area may be feeling more uncomfortable than they’re showing. The reassuring bit is that a vet will usually start with simple checks to work out what’s driving the itch. Getting help early often means quicker relief for your dog and less chance of a small skin problem turning into a longer-term one. Frequently Asked Questions Can seasonal allergies cause itchy skin? Yes, seasonal allergies can cause itchy skin in dogs. Environmental triggers like pollen and grass often show up as general itching, red skin, or repeated paw licking, and symptoms may flare at certain times of year. If the itching keeps returning, it’s worth getting your vet involved. What is allergic dermatitis in dogs? Allergic dermatitis in dogs is an inflammatory skin condition linked to allergy-related flare-ups that cause ongoing discomfort and itching. Rather than settling quickly on its own, it tends to come back repeatedly and usually needs longer-term management, especially if your dog is scratching, licking paws, or showing irritated skin.

    By Adele Busby

    Read more
  • Best cat food UK: wet, dry and senior food explained
    03.11.26 November 03, 2026 Featured

    Best cat food UK: wet, dry and senior food explained

    Picking the best cat food UK shelves have to offer is one of those decisions that feels simple until you’re actually doing it, and suddenly you’re cross-referencing moisture content at 9pm wondering if your cat even cares. This guide cuts through the label confusion and covers wet, dry, and senior food in plain terms, so you can make a call that actually fits your cat’s age, appetite, and daily habits. Whether you’re feeding a kitten, managing a sensitive stomach, or trying to work out what a seven-year-old cat really needs, you’ll find something practical here. What makes the best cat food in the UK for your cat’s day-to-day life? Finding the best cat food in the UK sounds straightforward until you’re standing in the pet aisle staring at forty different pouches, quietly wondering whether your cat actually needs grain-free or whether that’s just clever packaging doing its job. A more useful place to start? Think about your cat’s day-to-day life before you even glance at the label. A young, active indoor cat who barely touches her water bowl has genuinely different needs from a laid-back senior who grazes slowly and will flatly reject anything that isn’t served at exactly the right temperature. Age, activity level, hydration habits, and any ongoing digestive sensitivities all shape what “best” actually looks like in practice — and no single food works brilliantly for every cat. Some cats thrive on dry food. Others need the moisture that wet food naturally provides, particularly if they’re prone to urinary issues or simply won’t drink enough on their own. Plenty of households find a combination works well: wet food at mealtimes, with a little dry left out for grazing in between. Weight management is worth thinking about early too. If your cat tends to overeat or isn’t burning much energy indoors, calorie density matters more than most people initially realise. The good news is you don’t need to figure everything out at once. Start with whatever’s causing the most friction right now — a fussy eater, a sensitive stomach, or just trying to make mealtimes feel less like a negotiation. Once you know what you’re working with, browsing Lords and Labradors’ cat food range by life stage or dietary need makes the whole process a lot less overwhelming. Wet vs dry cat food: which one actually suits your cat better? There’s no definitive winner in the wet versus dry debate — the right choice really comes down to your cat’s health, habits, and, let’s be honest, how much they decide to cooperate at mealtimes. Some cats are devoted biscuit crunchers. Others will only eat something that smells like it was freshly hauled from the ocean. Most cat parents find the answer somewhere in the middle. Wet Cat Food Dry Cat Food Hydration High water content, supports daily intake Low moisture; fresh water always needed Texture Soft: mousse, chunks, or gravy Crunchy kibble Palatability Often higher, especially for fussy cats Varies; some cats genuinely love the crunch Shelf life Short once opened; best used same day Long shelf life, easy to store Cost Typically higher per serving More economical day to day Best suited for Seniors, urinary health, picky eaters Active cats, free-feeding routines A mixed-feeding routine works well in more situations than you might expect, and plenty of cat parents swear by it: Fussy eaters often respond better when wet food brings variety and aroma to their day Senior cats benefit from the softer texture and extra hydration that wet food naturally provides Cats prone to urinary issues do better with more moisture in their diet overall Cats who graze can have dry food available throughout the day alongside a wet meal morning or evening If you’re curious about the wet side of things, our wet cat food range covers everything from delicate mousses to hearty chunks — worth exploring if your cat has strong opinions about texture. Both formats can absolutely support a healthy, balanced diet. It just takes a little trial and a good read of your cat’s cues. Next, we look at how age changes the picture entirely — from kitten nutrition right through to senior cat food. How to read the label without getting lost in jargon Cat food labels can feel like they were designed to confuse you on purpose — and honestly, sometimes it does seem that way. But once you know which details actually matter, you can cut through the marketing noise and focus on what’s genuinely good for your cat. Here are the key things worth checking before you buy: Named meat sources — “Chicken 65%” tells you exactly what you’re getting. “Meat and animal derivatives” is vague and could mean almost anything. Named ingredients are always the better sign. Crude protein percentage — Cats are obligate carnivores, so protein is non-negotiable. As a rough guide, look for at least 30% in dry food and around 8 to 10% in wet food. Grain-free options — Grain-free recipes suit many cats, particularly those with sensitivities. Just check what replaces the grain. Large amounts of legumes or potato are worth noting. Fillers and artificial additives — Long ingredient lists featuring artificial colours, flavourings, or preservatives like BHA and BHT are worth avoiding where you can. Moisture content — Particularly relevant when comparing wet cat food options. Higher moisture supports hydration and kidney health, which matters at every life stage. Digestibility — “Highly digestible” backed by quality named proteins is meaningful. The same phrase floating next to vague ingredients is not. Green Flag Red Flag “Chicken 60%, named organs” “Meat and animal derivatives” You genuinely don’t need a nutrition degree to spot a quality recipe. It just takes a little practice. Starting with cat food brands that are upfront about their ingredients makes the whole process far less overwhelming — and far more satisfying when you find one your cat actually loves. Choosing cat food for kittens, adults, and senior cats A cat’s food should change with them. The needs of a lively kitten, a settled adult, and an older cat are not quite the same, so choosing by life stage is one of the easiest ways to narrow down the best cat food UK options for your own cat. Kittens Kittens need more calories, protein, and nutrients like taurine and DHA to support fast growth, brain development, and a healthy immune system. In most homes, a food labelled “complete” and made for kittens is the simplest place to start. Some all life stages recipes can work, but kitten-specific formulas are usually designed with those early growth needs in mind. If you’ve just brought a kitten home and feel overwhelmed by feeding advice, our guide to the best kitten food explains what to feed and when. Adult Cats At around 12 months, most cats move onto adult food. Here, the focus shifts to maintaining a healthy weight, steady energy, and good long-term health. Portion size matters more than many of us expect, especially for indoor cats who are brilliant at napping and less enthusiastic about cardio. A complete adult recipe, whether you’re comparing the best wet cat food UK picks or the best dry cat food UK options, is a sensible starting point. Senior Cats From around seven years old, many cats do well on food with fewer calories and a little more support for digestion, joints, and hydration. Senior cat food wet options can be especially useful if your cat is slowing down, has dental sensitivity, or simply prefers softer textures. The extra moisture can also help older cats who never seem very interested in their water bowl. If your cat is in their senior years, it’s worth speaking to your vet for more tailored feeding advice, especially if kidney health, appetite changes, or weight loss are becoming part of the picture. Best cat food for sensitive stomachs, fussy eaters, and everyday feeding wins If your cat is fine one week and fussy the next, or seems to get an upset tummy every time you try a new recipe, you are definitely not the only one. Finding the best cat food UK families actually stick with often comes down to a bit of detective work and a slow, sensible trial. For sensitive stomachs, look for simple recipes with a clear protein source and ingredients your cat already does well on. Many cats suit easily digested proteins like chicken, turkey, or white fish, plus added prebiotics or fibre to support normal digestion. A shorter ingredient list can also help when you are trying to work out what agrees with them. If your cat is fussy rather than sensitive, texture can be just as important as flavour. Some cats prefer pâté, others will only touch chunks in gravy, and some switch loyalties without warning. That is why testing a small tray, pouch, or bag first is so useful before you commit to a full box of the best wet cat food UK shoppers love or a large sack of the best dry cat food UK options. One helpful note on grain free cat food UK ranges: grain free is not automatically better for every cat. It can be worth considering if your vet suspects a specific sensitivity, but the overall recipe quality and how your cat responds matter more. Whatever you choose, change food gradually over 7 to 10 days. Mix a little more of the new food in each day and keep an eye on litter tray changes, appetite, and coat condition. If you need a gentler place to start, the sensitive and hypoallergenic cat food collection is a handy shortlist. How to make the final choice without second-guessing yourself If you’ve made it this far, you already know more than most cat parents do when they’re standing in the pet food aisle, squinting at the back of a pouch. Now it’s just about matching what you’ve learned to what your cat actually needs. Start simple. Is your cat a kitten, an adult, or a senior? That one question narrows things down immediately. From there, think about their digestion. If you’ve noticed soft stools, vomiting, or recurring sensitivity, a limited-ingredient or grain free cat food formula is a sensible place to start. And if they’re a fussy eater? Go wet first. The smell alone does most of the persuading. Budget is part of the picture too, and there’s no shame in that. A good dry cat food carrying most of the week, with wet food added at mealtimes, is one of the smartest feeding setups going. You get the hydration benefits of wet and the practicality of dry, without the cost of doing both in full. For your first order, keep it focused. Choose one wet and one dry option suited to your cat’s life stage, and give it two to three weeks before drawing conclusions. Cats take time to settle into something new, especially if you’re transitioning away from a previous food. Ultimately, the best cat food in the UK is simply the one your cat eats well, digests comfortably, and seems genuinely content on. Watch how they respond, trust what you’re seeing, and adjust from there. You know your cat better than any label ever will.

    By Adele Busby

    Read more
  • What Colours Can Cats See?
    30.10.26 October 30, 2026 Owning a Cat Featured

    What Colours Can Cats See?

    If you’ve ever caught yourself squinting at a toy wondering whether your cat can actually see it, you’re asking exactly the right question. What colours do cats see turns out to have a pretty fascinating answer, and one that changes the way you think about everything from playtime to the accessories you choose. This article walks you through how feline colour vision actually works, why it matters, and how to use that knowledge to pick things your cat will genuinely notice. What colours do cats actually see? If you’ve ever found yourself wondering what colours cats see, here’s the reassuring truth: their world isn’t black and white, but it’s not quite our world either. Cats work with a more limited colour palette than we do. Their vision is strongest in the blue and yellow range, so a bright blue toy or a pale yellow feather wand will appear relatively vivid to them. Reds and greens are a different story entirely. That bold red ball you picked out? To your cat, it likely reads as a dull, muddy brown — which might be exactly why they walked straight past it. It comes down to biology. Cat eyes contain two types of cone receptors, while human eyes have three. That third cone is what allows us to distinguish the full spectrum, from rich reds through to deep greens. Without it, those colours simply don’t land the same way for our cats. But here’s the thing: a cat’s world is still genuinely rich. Their vision is beautifully adapted for low light and movement — everything a natural hunter needs. Colour is just one piece of a much bigger picture. What this means practically is that colour choice actually matters when you’re picking out new things for your cat. Blues and yellows are the shades most likely to catch their eye and hold their attention. If you’re looking for a good place to start, our cat collection is full of toys and accessories worth exploring with exactly that in mind. Why cats see colours differently from humans Cats experience the world quite differently from us, and a big part of that comes down to how their eyes are built. Human eyes contain three types of colour-detecting cone cells; cats have just two. That simpler setup means their colour range is narrower and more muted than ours — but it also means their eyes are doing something else entirely. Quick comparison: Humans — 3 types of cone cells Cats — 2 types of cone cells Cat eyes prioritise rod cells over cone cells, making them exceptionally sharp in low light and highly sensitive to movement Their colour vision is roughly comparable to a person with red-green colour blindness — colours appear less vivid and harder to tell apart Blues and yellows tend to register more clearly than reds and greens This directly affects how cats respond to coloured toys, bedding, and everyday objects — some shades simply stand out more than others Research has added some interesting nuance here. Cats trained to distinguish red from cyan and orange from cyan could retain that discrimination even when the coloured stimuli were placed against a background bright enough to saturate the rods, which suggests that cat colour vision may be slightly more complex than scientists once assumed. The honest answer to what colours do cats see is: fewer, and less vividly than we do — but that’s only part of the picture. What cats lack in colour richness, they more than make up for in other ways. Their eyes are finely tuned for hunting and navigating in dim light, not appreciating a full spectrum. And once you understand that, it starts to make a lot more sense why your cat goes wild for certain toys and completely ignores others. How a cat’s colour vision affects playtime Ever wondered why your cat goes absolutely wild for that little blue feather wand but completely ignores the bright red ball you spent good money on? It turns out that understanding what colours cats see can explain a lot of those playtime mysteries. Because cats experience the world in blues, yellows, and muted greens, toys in those shades naturally pop in their visual field in a way that red and orange simply don’t. A red mouse toy, for example, can look more like a dull grey-brown blob against your carpet — which goes some way to explaining why it ends up sitting untouched in the corner. That said, colour is only part of the story. Contrast, movement, and texture often do far more to hold a cat’s attention than hue alone. A high-contrast black-and-white toy skittering unpredictably across the floor will almost always win. When choosing toys that work with how cats actually see, it helps to keep a few things in mind: Blue and yellow tend to register most vividly in feline vision, so lean towards those over red or orange High-contrast patterns — think black on white or dark on light — catch the eye more than block colours Movement features like feathers, ribbons, or wobbly rolling shapes add an irresistible edge Mixed textures let your cat engage touch and smell alongside sight, which keeps things interesting Red and orange are best treated as accents rather than the main visual draw The toys that tend to get the most mileage combine bold contrast with movement — not just a splash of colour. If you want to put this into practice, the Lords & Labradors cat toy collection is a good place to start. What to look for when choosing toys and accessories Knowing what colours cats can actually see makes choosing toys and accessories a lot more straightforward. A little colour awareness goes a long way when you’re browsing cat toys — helping you pick things that genuinely catch your cat’s eye, rather than just yours. Here are some practical things to keep in mind: Prioritise blue and yellow tones. Cats can see blue most clearly, so toys in these shades are far more visible to them than reds or greens, which tend to fade into the background. Skip the red and orange toys. To a cat, these colours read as something closer to grey or brown. That bright red mouse? Probably not as exciting as the packaging suggests. Go for bold, high-contrast designs. Strong contrasting colours and clear outlines are much easier for cats to distinguish, especially against neutral flooring or carpet. Think about the background. A yellow toy disappears on a cream rug but stands out clearly on dark wooden floors. Placement matters more than you might expect. Opt for distinct shapes. Clear, recognisable shapes help cats identify toys quickly, even when colour alone isn’t giving them much to work with. Consider accessories too. Bed covers and blankets in blue or yellow tones will be more visible in your cat’s everyday environment. Worth remembering: colour is only part of what makes a toy appealing. Scent, texture, sound, and movement matter just as much to most cats — often more. Every cat has its own quirks, so it’s worth experimenting with different combinations of colour, material, and movement to figure out what yours actually loves. A simple takeaway for cat parents So, what colours do cats see? The honest answer is: colour, yes — just not the vivid, full-spectrum version we experience. Their world is softer and more muted, with blues and yellows coming through most clearly, while reds and greens fade into something closer to muddy brown or grey. That might sound like a limitation, but it really isn’t worth worrying about. Cats are wired for hunting, not colour appreciation. Their vision is finely tuned for spotting movement and navigating in low light, and colour is just one small part of a much bigger sensory picture. Where this actually becomes useful is when you’re picking out toys and accessories. Choosing something blue or yellow over red or green gives your cat a much better shot at noticing it in the first place, rather than it blending into the background like another forgettable lump on the floor. It’s a small thing, but it can make playtime noticeably more engaging for both of you. If you’re looking for inspiration, our cat wellbeing collection is a great place to browse. Think of colour as one simple, easy trick you can use every day to help your cat feel a little more stimulated and at home.

    By Adele Busby

    Read more
  • Slip Leads: How to Use One and Are They Cruel?
    29.10.26 October 29, 2026 Owning a Dog Featured

    Slip Leads: How to Use One and Are They Cruel?

    Slip leads spark a lot of questions, and most of them come down to the same thing: are they kind, and am I using one right? This guide walks you through how to use a slip lead properly, how to fit one so it actually works, and how to decide whether it is the right choice for your dog at all. Whether you are brand new to slip leads or just want to feel more confident with one in your hand, you will find honest, practical answers here. What a slip lead is and why people use one A slip lead is one of those pieces of kit that looks deceptively simple but comes with a lot of questions once you start looking into it. At its most basic, it’s a single loop of rope, leather, or webbing that acts as both a lead and a collar in one. No buckle, no clip, no separate collar needed. You create a loop, slip it over your dog’s head, and the lead tightens or loosens depending on how much tension is on the line. That self-adjusting fit is exactly why so many professionals reach for one without a second thought. Vets use slip leads to guide dogs safely around a clinic without fiddling with unfamiliar collars. Groomers use them to keep dogs secure during a wash or trim. Rescue centres rely on them when a new dog arrives with no collar at all, or when a nervous dog needs to be moved with as little fuss as possible. Trainers often use them for specific exercises where a well-fitted, responsive lead communicates more clearly than a standard collar and lead setup. For a lot of pet parents, the first proper encounter with a slip lead is at the vet or a rescue centre — watching someone loop one over their dog’s head in a single fluid movement and thinking, oh, so that’s how it works. That ease of use is a big part of the appeal. What really determines whether a slip lead is comfortable and effective, or uncomfortable and counterproductive, comes down to how you use it. Fit and handling matter far more than most people realise, which is why this guide walks through both in detail. If you’re also thinking about your wider walking setup, our dog lead guide is a great place to compare your options. How to use a slip lead properly, step by step If you’re wondering how to use a slip lead without making walks feel stressful, the biggest things are fit, position and a light hand. Used thoughtfully, a slip lead should feel clear and controlled, not harsh. Make the loop first. Thread the rope through the metal ring to create the loop. Before it goes on your dog, check that it slides smoothly and doesn’t catch. If it sticks, it won’t loosen as easily when you want it to. Place it high on the neck. When learning how to fit a slip lead, this is the bit that matters most. Slip the loop over your dog’s head and move it up so it sits just behind the ears and under the jaw. That higher position usually gives you a bit more guidance with less risk of the lead dropping low and pressing on the softer part of the throat. Check which way it sits. A properly fitted slip lead should loosen easily when tension is released. For many dogs, that works best when the ring sits near the top of the neck rather than hanging underneath. Give it a quick test with your hands before you set off so you can see that it tightens and releases smoothly. Use the stopper. Most slip leads have a small rubber or leather stopper. Slide it into place so the loop can’t keep tightening beyond a comfortable point. It’s easy to overlook when you’re rushing out the door, but it makes a real difference to day-to-day handling. Check the fit. Once the stopper is set, the lead should feel snug but not tight. You should be able to slip two fingers underneath comfortably. Too loose, and it may slide down or even slip off. Too tight, and your dog is likely to feel uncomfortable straight away. Keep your handling soft. If you’re using a dog slip lead on a walk, think gentle guidance rather than steady pressure. Ask for a little movement, then soften the lead again as soon as your dog responds. In real life, that might look like a small reminder as your dog forges ahead, followed by a loose lead the moment they come back beside you. Common mistakes to avoid: Letting the lead drift down the neck Forgetting to set the stopper Keeping constant tension on the lead Using a loop that’s so loose it can slip off If you’re just starting out with lead manners, our puppy lead training essentials can help you build calm, confident walking habits from the beginning. When a slip lead can help and when it is not the right choice Slip leads are genuinely useful in the right situations, but they are not a one-size-fits-all solution for every dog or every walk. Knowing when to reach for one and when to leave it on the hook matters just as much as knowing how to fit it correctly. When a slip lead can work well Vet or grooming visits where you need quick, fuss-free control Short training sessions focused on loose-lead walking or responsiveness Working dog contexts where experienced handlers use them as a standard tool Emergency backup if a collar clip fails mid-walk Moving dogs calmly between areas, such as from the car to a field gate When another option may suit your dog better Longer daily walks where sustained pressure on the neck is a concern Dogs that pull consistently, since a slip lead tightening repeatedly can cause real discomfort Puppies still finding their feet and learning what walking on a lead even feels like Dogs with any history of neck, throat, or tracheal sensitivity Anxious or reactive dogs that feel noticeably more settled and secure in a well-fitted harness If your dog fits into any of those second situations, a harness is often the kinder choice for everyday walks. It spreads pressure more evenly across the body, takes any strain off the neck, and gives many dogs a calmer, more comfortable walking experience overall. If you are not sure where to start, our guide on how to choose a dog harness covers what to look for based on your dog’s size, shape, and walking style. Knowing how to use a slip lead well also means recognising when something else will serve your dog better. That kind of honest, flexible thinking is what good dog handling actually looks like in practice. Are slip leads cruel? The honest welfare answer The question of whether slip leads are cruel comes up a lot, and honestly, it is a fair thing to wonder. The short answer is that it is not really about the tool itself — it is about how you use it. In the right hands, with the right dog, a slip lead is a safe and practical piece of kit. Used carelessly or in the wrong situation, it can cause real discomfort. A few key factors decide which side of that line you end up on: Fit and positioning. The loop needs to sit high on the neck, just behind the ears. If it drops down toward the throat, it puts pressure on the windpipe and other delicate structures. Handler technique and timing. A light, well-timed guide is very different from a sustained pull. The lead should release the moment your dog stops pulling — not a second later. Your dog’s temperament and training level. A dog that already walks fairly well on a lead will respond very differently to a slip lead than one that is reactive, easily startled, or prone to lunging. Duration of use. Slip leads suit short, purposeful outings well. They are not designed to be worn for hours at a stretch. Active supervision. A slip lead should never be left on an unsupervised dog or one that is off exploring on their own. When slip leads are misused, the risks are genuine. Persistent neck pressure, poor positioning, or using one on a dog that is not quite ready for it can cause physical discomfort and stress. Knowing how to use a slip lead correctly is the real deciding factor here — not whether the lead itself is inherently good or bad. In practice, correct use looks like this: the loop sits high behind the ears, loosens immediately when your dog relaxes, and comes off as soon as the walk is done. It is always an active, hands-on setup — never a passive one. Getting that right is very achievable with a bit of guidance, and the sections ahead will walk you through exactly that. How to choose the right lead or collar for your dog There’s no single perfect lead setup that works for every dog. What suits a calm Spaniel on a quiet country lane might feel completely wrong for a boisterous young Labrador in a busy park — and that’s completely fine. Finding the right everyday option really comes down to your individual dog and how you actually walk together. Here are the key things worth thinking through: Size and strength — larger, stronger dogs need a setup that gives you genuine control without putting unnecessary pressure on the neck Coat type — thick or heavy-coated breeds like Bernese Mountain Dogs or Chow Chows may find a slip lead sits awkwardly and shifts around too much to stay in the right position Age and neck sensitivity — puppies and senior dogs have more delicate necks, so anything that tightens under tension deserves extra care Temperament and reactivity — a nervous or reactive dog that lunges without warning isn’t a good candidate for a slip lead on everyday walks Walking environment — a quiet rural route is a very different proposition from a busy street with unpredictable triggers at every turn When it comes to comparing your options, harnesses tend to work well for dogs that pull consistently, brachycephalic breeds like Bulldogs or Pugs, and any dog where neck pressure is a genuine concern. Flat collars are a solid, dependable choice for calm, well-trained dogs who walk nicely on a loose lead. Slip leads are generally best reserved for specific training moments, or used by experienced handlers who know exactly how to fit and hold them correctly. Not sure which collar style suits your dog? Our guide to choosing the right collar walks you through all the options in one place. Whatever you land on, the goal is always the same: your dog feels comfortable, stays secure, and is easy for you to handle on the walks you actually do. Using a slip lead with confidence and care Knowing how to use a slip lead well comes down to three things: fit, timing, and paying attention to your dog. Get those right and it can be a genuinely useful tool. Get them wrong, and good intentions alone won’t prevent discomfort. The basics are straightforward. Position the loop high on the neck, just behind the ears, and check it sits loose enough to slide two fingers underneath when your dog is relaxed. Make sure the stopper is set so the loop can’t tighten beyond a safe point. Move off calmly, reward your dog for walking close, and keep early sessions short — they’re still figuring out what you’re asking of them. Keep watching your dog as you go. Repeated pulling, coughing, or reluctance to move are all worth taking seriously. A relaxed dog who checks in with you is telling you the setup is working. A tense or anxious dog is telling you something different, and there’s absolutely no shame in switching to a padded collar or a well-fitted harness instead. The whole point is a dog who actually enjoys their walk. If you’re working on loose lead walking more generally, it’s worth taking a step back and looking at the broader picture — our guide to common puppy training mistakes covers some of the habits that can quietly undermine even the best efforts. And whatever equipment you land on, choose it because it suits your dog — not because it’s what someone else at the park is using. That’s the most confident, caring choice you can make. Frequently Asked Questions Do vets recommend slip leads? Yes, vets do use and recommend slip leads in some situations because they’re quick, simple, and help guide dogs safely without fiddling with an unfamiliar collar. That said, they’re best used thoughtfully and for the right dog, rather than treated as the best everyday walking option for every pet. Are slip leads bad for dogs? No, slip leads aren’t automatically bad for dogs, but they can be uncomfortable if they’re used poorly or on the wrong dog. Fit, positioning, gentle handling, and keeping pressure off the throat matter most, and many dogs are better suited to a harness for everyday walks. Do slip leads help with pulling? They can help in short, focused training sessions, but they’re not the best fix for a dog that pulls consistently. If a slip lead keeps tightening as your dog leans into it, that can cause real discomfort, so many dogs are kinder and more comfortable in a well-fitted harness.

    By Adele Busby

    Read more
Go to information hub

Loyal customers in 17 countries

Why Shop With Us?

  • Free Standard Delivery

    Orders over £75 qualify for free UK delivery. Orders under £75 will be calculated at the checkout.

  • Shopping Made Easy

    Gain exclusive access to sales and shop all your pets favourites on the go by downloading our app.

  • Designed in the UK

    Our own brand products are lovingly designed in our specialist UK workshop to our exacting standards.

  • We're Here For You

    Contact our Pet Experts sales@lordsandlabradors.co.uk

Luxury Products For Dogs & Cats

Lords and Labradors make luxury bedding and accessories for dogs and cats. It all started with the doggy chesterfield – a dog bed designed to look like a real chesterfield sofa. It was so popular and the idea for Lords & Labradors was born. The brand has expanded to make... Read more