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  • How to Introduce a New Puppy to a Resident Dog
    10.07.26 July 10, 2026 Featured

    How to Introduce a New Puppy to a Resident Dog

    Bringing a new puppy home when you already have a dog is one of those moments that can feel equal parts exciting and quietly nerve-wracking. Knowing how to introduce a new puppy to a resident dog well makes a real difference, not just in those first few minutes, but in how comfortably both dogs settle into life together over the weeks that follow. This guide covers everything from reading body language and nailing that first meeting, to building a steady first-week routine and avoiding the mistakes that can make things harder than they need to be. Before they meet: setting up a calm first introduction The preparation you do before your dogs ever see each other matters far more than anything that happens in those first five minutes. Think of it less like a playdate and more like a careful first impression — you want both dogs walking away feeling fine, not frazzled. Location plays a bigger role than most people expect. Research from Ohio State University recommends that you introduce the dogs in a neutral area rather than your own home or yard, where your resident dog already has a strong sense of ownership. A quiet street nearby, a car park at a local park, or a friend’s garden can all work well. Somewhere your older dog hasn’t claimed as their territory gives both dogs a fairer, less loaded starting point. Timing is worth thinking about too. Try to avoid making introductions when either dog is tired, hungry, or already buzzing with energy. Mid-morning often hits a sweet spot — both dogs have had a chance to settle after waking up, but the day hasn’t wound them up yet. If your resident dog has already had a good walk and is naturally a bit calmer, that’s worth factoring in. Keep the environment as low-key as you can. Skip the audience of excitable family members, the children tearing around, the general household chaos. The fewer distractions, the more mental space both dogs have to actually focus on each other. Keep both dogs on lead, but hold the lead loosely — tension travels straight down the line and into the dog, and even a relaxed dog can feel that shift. Most importantly, go in without a fixed idea of how it should go. Some dogs take to each other straight away. Others need days — sometimes weeks — of gradual, managed exposure before they genuinely start to settle. Neither outcome means anything has gone wrong. A good introduction isn’t about manufacturing an instant bond. It’s about creating the right conditions so both dogs feel safe enough to build one at their own pace. If you’re still in the thick of preparation, our guide to bringing a puppy home is a great place to get the fuller picture before that first meeting happens. What to look for in body language from both dogs Knowing how to read what your dogs are telling you is honestly the most valuable skill when it comes to introducing a new puppy to a resident dog. Dogs communicate constantly through posture, movement, and expression, and catching early signs of stress means you can slow things down before any real tension builds. Relaxed, positive signals to look for: Loose, wiggly body movement Soft, blinking eyes A gently wagging tail (relaxed, not rigid) Play bows — front end down, bottom in the air Calm, curious sniffing A relaxed, slightly open mouth Moving freely between you and the other dog Warning signals that mean slow down: Stiff or frozen posture A hard, unblinking stare Lip licking or yawning that feels out of place Raised hackles along the back A tail held very high and rigid, or tucked right under Consistently turning away or trying to avoid the other dog Whale eye (where you can see the whites of their eyes) When to step in: If either dog freezes, growls, or one keeps trying to get away from the other, calmly separate them and let both have a quiet break. That is not failure — it just means they need a little more time and space before trying again. It is also worth remembering that these signals matter for both dogs, not just the one you are most worried about. Puppies have boundless energy and zero awareness of personal space, which can easily overwhelm a resident dog who has never had to share their home before. An older dog who feels repeatedly stressed will take much longer to come around. Keeping one eye on each of them is the real trick here. If you want to feel more confident reading these cues, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is well worth a read. How to introduce a new puppy to a resident dog step by step Knowing how to introduce a new puppy to a resident dog can feel daunting, but with the right pacing it really is manageable. Take it one small step at a time, stay calm yourself, and trust the process — most dogs do find their rhythm together, they just need a little space and patience to get there. Start outdoors with parallel walking. Before any face-to-face greeting, walk both dogs in the same outdoor space with a comfortable distance between them. A quiet street or park works well. This lets each dog become aware of the other without any pressure to engage. Keep the energy easy and reward both dogs for calm behaviour as you go. Allow controlled sniffing at a distance. Gradually close the gap over several minutes, letting each dog take in the other’s scent from afar. Keep leads loose throughout — neither dog should feel restricted or cornered at this stage. Move to a short on-lead greeting. When both dogs look relaxed, allow a brief sniff hello on lead. A few seconds is plenty to begin with. This is one of the most important moments in any puppy and resident dog introduction, so resist the urge to let it run on, even if it seems to be going well. Head indoors for brief supervised time together. Once the outdoor greeting has gone smoothly, bring both dogs inside for a short off-lead session in a neutral room. Keep food and toys out of the picture initially — removing that competition early makes a real difference. Watch closely and step in calmly if needed. If either dog seems overwhelmed, separate them quietly and give both a chance to decompress before trying again. Signs one dog needs a break: a stiff or frozen posture, tucked tail, excessive panting, or turning away and shutting down. If you notice any of these, calmly lead the dogs apart, give each one some quiet time in their own space, and return to shorter sessions when they’re both settled. Build up shared time gradually. Over the following days, slowly extend how long they spend together — always supervised, always with an easy exit available for both dogs. Pacing really is everything when introducing a new puppy to an older dog or a resident dog of any age. Where you can, handle one dog at a time, keep early sessions short, and let the relationship develop at its own pace. If you want help thinking through the bigger picture too, our guide to bringing a new puppy home covers everything you need to help both dogs feel settled from day one. Making the first week feel safe and predictable The first week at home sets the tone for everything that follows, and knowing how to introduce a new puppy to a resident dog well goes beyond that initial meeting in the park. What actually helps both dogs relax is structure and predictability. When each dog knows what to expect from their day, that low-level tension that comes from uncertainty starts to fade on its own. Here are five daily practices worth building into your routine from day one: Feed them separately. Use different rooms or at least opposite ends of the space, and always pick up bowls once each dog has finished. Even the most laid-back older dog can feel uncomfortable with a bouncy puppy hovering near their food bowl. Keep sleeping areas apart. Your puppy needs their own safe space to wind down without your resident dog wandering in. A consistent, settled sleep setup makes a real difference — our guide on creating the perfect puppy sleep routine has some practical tips to get you started. Stagger toilet breaks where you can. Taking them out separately in the early days keeps things calm and gives each dog a quiet moment of one-to-one time with you, which both of them will appreciate. Keep shared time short and intentional. A few brief, calm sessions together are far better than long stretches of unsupervised chaos. Five to ten minutes, a few times a day, is genuinely plenty to begin with. Put high-value items away. Chews, bones, favourite toys — clear them from shared spaces for now. Resource guarding can flare up in dogs that have never shown it before, so it’s simply not worth the risk this early on. Quick tip: always end interactions before either dog reaches their limit. A session that finishes while both dogs are still calm and happy does far more good than one that tips into overexcitement or stress. None of this is about keeping your dogs apart forever. It’s about giving them the steadiness they need to actually get comfortable with each other, so that the easy, relaxed coexistence you’re hoping for has a real chance to take root. Common mistakes that can make introductions harder Even the most prepared pet parents can stumble during introductions, and usually it’s pure excitement that’s to blame rather than carelessness. These are easy mistakes to make. The good news is that spotting them early makes the whole process so much smoother for everyone involved. Rushing straight to off-lead play. It feels natural to just let them get on with it, but dropping the leads too soon takes away your ability to step in if things get tense. Keep early interactions on lead and in neutral spaces while you find your feet. Expecting instant bonding. Some dogs click immediately, but many don’t. If you’re watching for cuddles on day one, you’ll miss the quieter signs of real progress, like calm sniffing or simply choosing to settle near each other. Leaving them alone together too soon. Until you’re genuinely confident both dogs are relaxed around each other, they should always be supervised. A crate gives each dog their own breathing space when you can’t be right there watching. If you’re new to crating, our guide to dog crates is a great place to start. Skipping neutral territory. Meeting at home immediately puts the resident dog on guard. A quiet street or local park gives both dogs a calmer, more level playing field for that first hello. Letting the puppy crowd the older dog. Puppies have zero concept of personal space. Redirecting them before they pester or overwhelm your resident dog protects the relationship before it’s even had a chance to form. Slowing the process down, even when everything looks fine, almost always leads to calmer, more settled dogs in the long run. These mistakes are easy to sidestep once you know what to look out for. When to slow down and ask for extra help Sometimes, even with the best preparation, things don’t click straight away. That’s completely normal, and it doesn’t mean you’ve done anything wrong. There are a few signs worth taking seriously, though. If your resident dog is freezing stiff, growling well beyond a single brief warning, or struggling to eat and settle after several days, those are clear signals to slow the pace right down. The same applies to a puppy who has shut down, stopped playing, or seems anxious every time your older dog is nearby. One or two tense moments are to be expected. Persistent stress in either dog deserves proper attention. If meetings keep ending badly despite giving both dogs space and time, go back to basics. Separate their areas completely for a few days, swap bedding so they can get used to each other’s scent from a safe distance, then reintroduce through a baby gate before attempting face-to-face contact again. It might feel like a step backwards, but a full reset is often the most useful thing you can do. If you’ve worked through all of this and things still feel stuck, a qualified behaviourist using positive, force-free methods can genuinely help. Your vet is usually a good first call for a reputable recommendation. It’s also worth knowing that this same steady, patient approach applies to other introductions at home. If you’re also navigating life with a cat, our guide on how to get your dog and cat to get along walks through a similarly careful process. Slowing down isn’t giving up. It’s the kindest, smartest move you can make for both dogs.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Why does my dog dig at their bed before lying down?
    07.07.26 July 07, 2026 Featured

    Why does my dog dig at their bed before lying down?

    That satisfying scratch-paw-circle routine your dog performs before finally settling down is one of those small mysteries that leaves a lot of pet parents genuinely curious. Understanding why dogs dig at their bed comes down to a fascinating mix of ancient instinct, comfort-seeking, and the occasional signal that something in their sleep setup needs attention. In this article, we’ll walk through what’s really going on, when it’s worth a second look, and how to put together a sleeping space your dog will actually love. Why dogs dig at their bed before settling down If you’ve ever watched your dog scratch, paw, and circle their bed before finally flopping down with a satisfied sigh, you’re in very good company. It’s one of those behaviours that looks a little eccentric but is, for most dogs, completely normal. So why do dogs dig at their bed before lying down? The short answer: it’s a deeply rooted mix of instinct, comfort-seeking, and habit. Dogs have been doing this for thousands of years — long before memory foam or fleece linings were part of the picture, and the behaviour has simply carried over into domestic life. It usually comes down to three things. Instinct, first and foremost. Wild dogs would scratch at grass, leaves, or earth to shape a sheltered sleeping spot, and that drive hasn’t gone anywhere. Then there’s comfort — rearranging bedding helps your dog settle into just the right position and temperature. And finally, scent. Dogs have scent glands in their paws, so all that scratching is also their way of quietly claiming the space as their own. Most of the time, there’s nothing to worry about. It’s just your dog being a dog. If you’re thinking about whether their current bed is actually working for them, our introduction to dog beds is a helpful place to start. The instinct side: nesting, scent-marking, and den behaviour So much of what looks like quirky dog behaviour actually makes perfect sense once you understand where it comes from and why dogs dig at their bed is a great example. This habit stretches back thousands of years, long before cosy living rooms and memory foam mattresses, when dogs’ wild ancestors had to create their own resting spots from scratch. Here are the key instincts at play when your dog digs, scratches, and circles before settling: Denning instinct: Wild canines would dig shallow hollows in the earth to create a sheltered, secure sleeping space. Your dog is doing exactly the same thing just with a fleece blanket instead of soil. Nesting for comfort and warmth: Dog nesting behaviour typically involves rearranging bedding to trap heat or create a cooler spot, depending on the time of year. Think of it as your dog fine-tuning their own little microclimate. Circling to check their surroundings: That pre-sleep loop isn’t random. It’s an instinctive safety scan — a way of checking for anything unusual before becoming vulnerable in sleep. Scent-marking through their paws: Dogs have small scent glands in their paw pads, so when they scratch their bed, they’re leaving behind a subtle personal scent. It’s their way of saying this space is mine. All of these behaviours are healthy, normal expressions of instinct — nothing to worry about. If your dog is a dedicated digger, a bed with deeper, cushioned sides gives them something genuinely satisfying to paw into and curl against. The Lords & Labradors Nest Dog Bed is designed with exactly that in mind. Could your dog be trying to get more comfortable or regulate temperature? Sometimes the simplest explanation is the right one. A lot of the time, when dogs dig at their bed before lying down, they’re just trying to get comfortable — and temperature has more to do with it than most owners would guess. Think of it as your dog doing a quick pre-sleep audit of their space. A bit of pawing here, some rearranging there — it’s their version of plumping a pillow or stealing the cool side of the duvet. Completely relatable, honestly. Here are some of the most common comfort-driven reasons dogs scratch or dig before settling: Fluffing blankets to trap warmth on colder nights Pawing bedding aside to find a cooler, flatter surface when they’re feeling too warm Bunching soft material into a nest shape that cradles their body just so Shifting around to avoid lumps, seams, or uneven patches in the bed Creating a small hollow that feels snug and enclosed Quick fact: Dog nesting behaviour is rooted in an instinct to build a thermally efficient sleep spot — one that helps them retain heat or release it depending on what their body needs in that moment. The reassuring part? This kind of digging is almost always completely normal. Your dog isn’t anxious or unsettled. They’re just making their bed work for them. If you’ve ever wondered whether a blanket might help them feel more settled at night, this guide is worth a read. When bed-digging is normal — and when it might point to a problem For most dogs, a bit of digging and circling before settling down is completely normal — it’s deeply instinctive, and if your dog has always done it, there’s almost certainly nothing to worry about. That said, a few signs are worth keeping an eye on. Frantic or repeated scratching that looks more like frustration than habit Restless pacing around the bed without ever actually settling Whimpering or vocalising during the pre-sleep routine Repeatedly abandoning the bed to sleep somewhere else instead Noticeable changes in how long or how deeply your dog sleeps Redness, flaking, or irritation around the paws or belly When these things start showing up, it’s often your dog’s way of telling you something feels off. It could be stress, a new source of physical discomfort, or even a reaction to a laundry product you’ve used on their bedding — you’d be surprised how often that one catches people out. Sometimes, though, the answer is simpler: the bed itself may no longer be right for them. Dogs’ needs genuinely change over time. A bed that was perfect for a bouncy two-year-old Labrador might not offer nearly enough support for that same dog at eight. If your dog seems unsettled in a way that goes beyond their usual pre-sleep ritual, it’s worth taking a proper look at their sleeping setup. Our guide on how to pick a dog bed is a good place to start. How to make your dog’s bed more inviting If your dog is going to dig at their bed before lying down, the least you can do is give them a great one to work with. A few small changes can make a real difference to how settled they feel come sleep time. Start with size. A bed that’s too small forces your dog to curl up awkwardly, while one that’s too large can feel exposed rather than snug. Dogs with strong nesting instincts — particularly smaller breeds and anxious dogs — often do best with a bed that has raised sides or a bolster to press against. It gives them something to dig into, and something to tuck against once they’re done. Material matters too. Soft, washable fabrics tend to invite the most nesting behaviour, and keeping bedding clean helps your dog feel at home rather than unsettled by unfamiliar smells. That said, if you notice more scratching and circling after a wash, try placing a worn t-shirt or familiar blanket in the bed to bring back that comforting scent. Our guide on how to clean your Lords & Labradors pet bedding has some useful tips for keeping things fresh without losing that familiarity your dog relies on. Placement is worth thinking about too. A quiet corner, away from drafts and busy walkways, gives your dog the chance to settle without distraction. Get the setup right, and you’ll likely find the whole pre-sleep ritual — the circling, the digging, the pawing — becomes calmer and quicker than you’d expect.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Why Do Cats Sleep in Different Places
    03.07.26 July 03, 2026 Featured

    Why Do Cats Sleep in Different Places

    Cats are famously hard to predict, and their sleeping habits are no exception. If you’ve ever wondered why do cats sleep in different places, the answer reaches back to instinct, but it’s also shaped by temperature, mood, territory, and the rhythms of daily life. In this article, we’ll walk through what’s really going on when your cat moves between spots, and how to create a sleep setup they’ll genuinely want to use. Why cats change sleeping spots so often If you’ve ever spotted your cat snoozing on the sofa in the morning, tucked behind the bathroom door by lunchtime, and somehow wedged into a cardboard box by evening — you’re not alone. This is just cats being cats. So why do cats sleep in different places? The short answer is instinct. In the wild, cats rotate their sleeping spots to avoid becoming predictable to predators, so no single location ever feels too exposed. Your perfectly safe indoor cat carries those same instincts, even if the biggest threat in their day is the vacuum cleaner. Beyond instinct, cats are committed comfort-seekers. They’ll follow a patch of sunlight across the living room floor, claim the warmest corner of the house, or decide that your fresh laundry pile is, clearly, the ideal place for a nap. Their sleeping habits shift with the light, the temperature, their mood, and the rhythms of the day. The reassuring part is that moving between sleeping spots is completely normal cat behaviour. It doesn’t mean they’re unsettled or unhappy. Most of the time, it simply means they’re doing what cats do best: finding the most comfortable option available to them right now. If you’d like to give them a few more worthy options to choose from, browsing our cat beds is a great place to start. How territory and safety shape where your cat sleeps Cats are deeply territorial, and where they choose to sleep is rarely accidental. Their wild ancestors had to stay alert even while resting, and that instinct is very much alive in your cat today. In fact, one of the clearest explanations for why cats sleep in different places is rooted in survival behaviour — rotating spots helps them stay familiar with their home and feel in control of it. A few key instincts shape where your cat decides to settle: Territory rotation — moving between spots helps cats mentally map their home and notice any changes Escape route awareness — cats gravitate towards positions where they can see the room clearly and make a quick exit if needed High perches for surveillance — the top of a bookshelf or a sunny windowsill offers a satisfying bird’s-eye view of everything going on below Tucked-away corners for concealment — when they want to feel hidden and unbothered, a snug or covered spot feels far more secure Reading the room — a busier, noisier space will often send a cat straight to somewhere quieter and less exposed So when your cat keeps sleeping in different spots or turns up in seemingly odd places, it’s usually a very deliberate read of the environment. Once you see their habits as purposeful rather than puzzling, it becomes much easier to support them well. If your cat has a particular love of sheltered, den-like spaces, a high-sided cat bed can offer exactly the cocooned, secure feeling their instincts are quietly asking for. Temperature, comfort, and the hunt for the perfect cosy spot One of the most straightforward reasons why cats sleep in different places comes down to temperature. Cats are incredibly sensitive to heat and cold, and they’ll instinctively seek out whichever spot in your home feels just right at any given moment. You’ve probably spotted your cat doing some of these: Following a patch of sunlight as it moves across the floor during the morning Pressing right up against the radiator on a cold winter afternoon Sprawling flat out on cool kitchen tiles when the weather warms up Burrowing into a soft blanket or throw for an extra layer of warmth Claiming a spot on top of the sofa or a high shelf, where warm air naturally collects Tucking into a snug, enclosed space that holds body heat and feels sheltered Worth knowing: Cats sleep between 12 and 16 hours a day. That’s a serious amount of rest, which means comfort isn’t a luxury for them — it’s a genuine daily need. Rotating between spots is simply how they stay at the right temperature as the day changes around them. Giving your cat several cosy options around the home works with this instinct rather than against it. A soft blanket in a sunny corner, a cool retreat in the hallway, and something like a cosy burrow-style bed that wraps snugly around them each serve different needs at different times of day. The more choices they have, the more settled they tend to feel. What your cat’s mood and routine can tell you There’s rarely one simple answer to why cats sleep in different places, because where your cat chooses to rest often reflects how they’re actually feeling. Mood, confidence, stress, and shifts in your home routine all quietly shape those decisions — sometimes from one day to the next. What sleep spot changes can reveal: A new pet or baby in the home — your cat may retreat to quieter, more secluded spots while they find their feet again Growing confidence — a previously anxious cat sprawling in the middle of the sofa is genuinely a good sign Ageing and joint comfort — older cats often abandon high perches in favour of lower, softer spots that are kinder on their bodies Disrupted daily routine — changes to feeding times or your own schedule can shift when and where your cat likes to settle Seasonal temperature shifts — the windowsill they loved all summer may lose its appeal entirely come winter Bonding and trust — choosing to sleep closer to you is usually a sign your cat feels safe and at home A relaxed cat rotating between favourite spots is completely normal. What’s worth paying attention to is a sudden change paired with lethargy, hiding, or loss of appetite — that combination is worth a conversation with your vet. Most of the time, changing sleeping spots is simply feline instinct doing its thing. Giving your cat a variety of comfortable, well-placed options means they can follow those instincts freely — which, honestly, is all they’re asking for. How to create a sleep setup your cat will actually use The good news? Supporting your cat’s sleep habits doesn’t need to be a big project. A few small changes around your home can go a long way. Start by offering variety. Cats change sleeping spots for good reasons, so give them real options across different areas. Think about height, warmth, and noise levels. A cosy enclosed bed tucked in a sunny corner, a soft blanket folded on a lower shelf, and a spot near their favourite person covers most of what cats are quietly looking for. Warmth matters more than most people expect. If your cat keeps ditching their bed for the radiator or a fresh pile of laundry, take that as a hint. A well-padded, hooded bed tends to beat a flat open one, especially once the temperature drops. Location is just as important as the bed itself. Avoid busy walkways or anywhere the household tends to gather loudly. Cats sleep best when they feel settled, not like they need to keep one eye open. Once you’ve set up a few spots, give it a week or two and just watch. You’ll start to notice the patterns fairly quickly: the sunny morning stretch, the quiet evening retreat, the social snooze next to you on the sofa. Understanding why cats sleep in different places is really just about learning to read your cat. Once you do, making small tweaks to their space starts to feel less like guesswork and a lot more like second nature.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Puppy Teething Symptoms
    29.06.26 June 29, 2026 Getting A Puppy Featured

    Puppy Teething Symptoms

    Sore gums, mystery teeth marks on the furniture, a puppy who seems a little off but you can’t quite put your finger on why — puppy teething symptoms have a way of creeping up before you’ve even thought to look for them. In this guide, we’ll walk you through what’s actually happening inside your puppy’s mouth, what the teething timeline looks like, and how to tell normal discomfort from something worth a vet call. You’ll also find some genuinely simple ways to soothe sore gums at home and keep the chewing pointed in the right direction. What puppy teething symptoms look like in everyday life Most puppy parents notice something is off before they even think to connect it to teething. The shoes have mysteriously acquired teeth marks, your puppy is mouthing your hands more than usual, and they seem a little out of sorts in general. Sound familiar? Once you know what to look for, the whole picture starts to make sense. The most obvious sign is a sudden surge in chewing. Everything becomes fair game: furniture corners, skirting boards, your favourite jumper. Alongside this, you might notice your puppy dribbling more than usual or pawing at their mouth. If you gently lift their lip, look for gums that appear a little red or puffy, especially around the spots where new teeth are starting to push through. Nipping tends to increase too, and it can feel more frantic than playful. This is not your puppy being difficult or defiant. Their gums are genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing brings relief. Giving them appropriate things to gnaw on, like textured puppy toys designed with teething in mind, makes a real difference at this stage. A fussier mood is also completely normal. Some puppies go off their food for a day or two, sleep more restlessly, or simply seem a little flat compared to their usual bouncy selves. It will pass. Spotting these puppy teething signs for what they actually are helps you respond with patience rather than frustration. That is better for your puppy, and honestly, better for you too. When puppy teething starts and when it usually ends Puppy teething symptoms can feel like they’ve come out of nowhere, but the process actually begins earlier than most people realise. Baby teeth start pushing through from around 3 to 8 weeks of age, and by 12 to 16 weeks, adult teeth begin replacing them. The whole stage typically wraps up by around 6 to 7 months, so as relentless as it feels right now, it really is temporary. Here’s how the puppy teething timeline usually unfolds: 0 to 3 weeks — Puppies are born without teeth. Gums are soft, and there’s no discomfort yet. 3 to 8 weeks — Baby teeth (also called milk teeth) begin coming through. Most puppies have their full set of 28 by around 8 weeks. 12 to 16 weeks — Adult teeth start pushing through. This is when puppy teething signs tend to become most noticeable, with chewing and drooling ramping up noticeably. 4 to 6 months — Adult teeth continue replacing baby teeth. Don’t be surprised if you find a tiny tooth on the kitchen floor. 6 to 7 months — The full set of 42 adult teeth is usually in place. Worth knowing: Most puppies have all 42 adult teeth by 6 to 7 months. That’s the finish line, and it will arrive. How long puppies teethe and how intensely they feel it does vary. Larger breeds sometimes experience more pronounced discomfort, and some puppies are just more sensitive than others. If your pup seems particularly restless or chew-obsessed, that’s usually why. Getting the right supplies together early makes the whole stage far more manageable. Lords & Labradors’ puppy collection is a great starting point if you’re building your teething toolkit. Why teething makes puppies chew, bite, and act out If your puppy seems to be chewing everything in sight, nipping at your hands, or waking you up at odd hours, take a breath — this is not a sign that you’ve got a troublesome pup on your hands. These are classic puppy teething symptoms, and they’re almost always your puppy’s way of telling you their mouth is uncomfortable. During teething, the gums become inflamed as adult teeth push through the tissue. That pressure and sensitivity is genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing provides just enough counter-pressure to bring some relief. Think of it like a human baby reaching for anything they can gnaw on. Your puppy isn’t acting out — they’re coping. The most common behavioural signs linked to teething discomfort include: Chewing furniture, skirting boards, and shoes — anything firm that creates that satisfying counter-pressure Destroying bedding or soft furnishings, which tends to ramp up at night when there’s nothing else to redirect their attention to Mouthing or grabbing hands during play, often more persistently than usual Eating more slowly or briefly going off food because chewing feels sore Drooling more than normal, thanks to increased saliva production during teething Seeming restless or unsettled at bedtime, especially during the most intense teething weeks All of this is temporary. Once you understand it’s physical discomfort driving the behaviour rather than wilfulness, it becomes a lot easier to respond with patience and redirect your puppy calmly. How to soothe sore gums at home Once you’ve started recognising the puppy teething symptoms your pup is showing, the focus naturally shifts from spotting the signs to actually making them feel better. The good news? There’s plenty you can do at home, and most of it is simple. Offer puppy-safe chew toys designed with teething in mind. Softer rubber or nylon options give sore gums something satisfying to work on without causing damage. It’s worth having a few different styles on the go — browse puppy-safe chew toys to find options suited to your pup’s size and chew strength. Try a briefly chilled damp flannel. Wet a cloth, pop it in the fridge for 20 minutes, then let your puppy gnaw on it. The gentle coolness soothes inflamed gums without the risks that come with frozen items. Rotate toys regularly. Puppies lose interest quickly, so swapping things out every day or two keeps chewing directed at the right targets rather than your skirting boards. Stay nearby during chewing sessions. Supervising means you can calmly redirect your pup the moment they switch from their toy to your favourite chair leg — and they will try. Redirect rather than just remove. When your puppy goes for something off-limits, swap it straight away with an appropriate toy. A firm “no” on its own rarely gets the message across at this age. What to avoid: Hard bones or antlers, which can crack sensitive puppy teeth Frozen solid items like ice cubes, which are too harsh on sore gums Small objects that could become a choking hazard Human teething gels, particularly anything containing xylitol, which is toxic to dogs With the right puppy teething remedies to hand and a little consistency, this phase is genuinely manageable — for your puppy and for your home. When puppy teething symptoms need a vet check Most puppy teething symptoms are completely normal, and the vast majority of what you’ll see at home doesn’t need anything more than patience and a good chew toy. A little blood on a toy? Perfectly expected. The odd wobbly or missing tooth? All part of it. Mild drooling, pink-tinged gums, and a puppy who’s grumpier than usual during peak teething weeks are nothing to panic about. That said, a few signs are worth watching more closely: Gums that look very swollen, deeply red, or are bleeding heavily and not settling A baby tooth that hasn’t fallen out after the adult tooth has already come through Persistent refusal to eat, even soft or wet food Breath that smells genuinely foul — not just normal puppy breath, but sharp or rotten Lethargy, a fever, or anything else that makes your puppy seem off in a general way If one of these pops up, give it a day and see whether things settle. If they don’t, trust your gut and call your vet. You know your puppy better than anyone. For everything else, the right support and a few good chews will carry you both through. Just getting started with a new pup? Our guide to bringing a puppy home covers those early weeks brilliantly.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Best Orthopedic Dog Beds for Large Dogs
    26.06.26 June 26, 2026 New Products Featured

    Best Orthopedic Dog Beds for Large Dogs

    Finding the best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs is genuinely worth getting right, because a bed that works for a Spaniel simply will not cut it for a Golden Retriever or a Great Dane. In this guide, we cover everything that actually matters: foam depth, washability, durability for heavy sprawlers, and what changes when your dog gets older and slower to get up. Whether you are shopping on a budget or looking for a long-term investment for a senior dog, we have broken it all down so you can find the right fit for your specific dog. Best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs: how to choose the right one Large dogs put a lot through their joints every single day, and a flat cushion just doesn't cut it once you've got a Labrador, a Golden Retriever, or a Great Dane settling in for a long sleep. The best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs do something genuinely different: they use high-density foam to distribute your dog's body weight evenly, take the pressure off hips, elbows, and shoulders, and help muscles recover properly between walks. Before you start comparing products, it helps to know what actually matters. Foam quality is the big one. Look for a solid memory foam or high-resilience foam base of at least four inches — anything thinner and a heavier dog will compress straight through it. Size matters just as much. Your dog should be able to stretch out fully without a limb dangling off the edge, so measure them before you buy. Cover washability is easy to overlook until it suddenly isn't. For big dogs, a removable machine-washable cover isn't a bonus — it's a basic requirement. Think muddy paws after a wet walk, moulting season, the occasional drool patch. You'll be glad it zips off. It's also worth thinking about your dog's age and how they sleep. A younger dog who sprawls and digs needs something durable and low-sided. A senior dog with stiff joints needs a bed that's easy to step into and offers deeper support. Best all-round orthopedic beds for big dogs who need everyday support When you live with a big dog who drops onto their bed at the end of the day with a dramatic sigh, the filling inside really matters. The best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs do more than look plush. They need to support heavier bodies evenly, hold their shape over time, and be easy to keep clean after muddy walks, shedding season, and everyday life. Slumba Orthopaedic Dog Mattress by Lords & Labradors — This is the one we’d point most pet parents towards for dependable everyday comfort, especially if your dog is older, heavy-set, or simply loves stretching right out. The Slumba Orthopaedic Dog Mattress has deep supportive foam that helps spread weight more evenly, so there’s less chance of hips and shoulders dipping awkwardly into the bed. It also has a removable washable cover, which is a genuine win if your dog brings half the garden back indoors. High-sided memory foam beds — A lovely option for dogs who like a bit of structure around them or always use the edge of the bed as a pillow. For an orthopedic dog bed for large dogs, look for sturdy bolsters, a non-slip base, and enough foam depth to stop the bed feeling flat under a heavier frame. Flat orthopedic mattress styles — These are often the best dog beds for large dogs who sprawl, sleep hot, or don’t want to climb over raised sides. A simple mattress shape also fits nicely in open spaces like kitchens, utility rooms, or beside your bed. For larger dogs, many pet parents find 4 inches or more of supportive foam offers better everyday comfort. What makes these styles such strong all-rounders is the balance of comfort, support, and practicality. For nightly use, that’s what really counts. Best orthopedic beds for senior dogs and dogs with stiff joints Older dogs, and dogs living with arthritis or joint stiffness, need more than just a soft place to lie down. The best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs in this category deliver deeper pressure relief, foam support that holds its shape overnight, and a low step-in height that lets a stiff dog settle without struggling on the way down. When choosing for a senior or joint-compromised large dog, look for: High-density memory foam of at least 4 inches to properly support heavier body weight A waterproof inner liner, especially useful if your dog is older and occasionally caught short Bolster edges that support the head and neck once they finally relax into sleep A non-slip base to keep the bed stable on hard floors when they're getting in and out A low or open entry point so there's no barrier to step over The three designs that tend to work best here are memory foam mattress beds, bolster-surround beds, and raised ortho frames. Flat mattress beds give full-body contact and suit dogs who love to stretch right out. Raised frames keep a dog off cold floors, though they work better for dogs who still move fairly easily. For large dogs that shift position through the night and need something to lean into, a bolster-surround bed often comes out on top. Our square bolster dog beds are a strong pick here, offering wraparound support that genuinely helps big dogs feel settled rather than just parked somewhere soft. If your dog is showing early signs of stiffness, getting the right bed in place sooner rather than later is one of the simplest things you can do for their long-term comfort. Best durable orthopedic beds for large breeds that love to sprawl or dig Some large dogs treat a bed like part of their settling ritual: a few tight circles, a good scratch, then a full-body flop. If that sounds familiar, the best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs need to do more than feel comfortable on day one. They need to cope with daily wear and still keep their shape. Feature Why It Matters What to Look For   Tough outer fabric Helps the bed stand up to scratching, digging, and repeated pawing Canvas, durable microfibre, or other hard-wearing fabrics Removable washable cover Makes muddy paws, moulting season, and the odd accident much easier to manage A cover that zips off easily and can go in the wash Supportive foam base Gives bigger dogs steadier joint support and is less likely to flatten quickly A thick, structured base that feels resilient Non-slip bottom Stops the bed sliding while your dog circles or climbs in Textured or grippy underside A few practical tips help when choosing a large dog bed for joint support: If your dog sprawls right to the edges, an extra large orthopedic dog bed gives them room without hanging off the sides Raised edges can be handy for dogs who like to lean or rest their chin, but the centre should still feel stable and supportive A washable cover is worth its weight in gold if your dog sheds heavily or loves the garden Be cautious with beds labelled “orthopaedic” if they rely mostly on soft fill rather than a proper foam base If you like the cosy box-bed style, the Lords & Labradors Essentials Plush Box Bed is a useful one to compare against your checklist, especially if you want something practical, snug, and easy to live with day to day. Best orthopedic beds by budget and value for large dogs Price matters, but with the best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs, value is really about how well the bed suits your dog’s stage of life. A younger, healthy Labrador who flops down after a muddy walk may be perfectly happy on a well-made large dog bed for joint support with sturdy filling and a washable cover. An older giant breed who’s slower to get up usually benefits from thicker, denser foam that holds its shape night after night. Budget-Smart Picks Premium Investment Picks   Price Range £60–£120 £130–£250+ Foam Type Supportive standard foam High-density memory foam Ideal Dog Size/Age Young adults, growing large breeds Seniors, giant breeds, dogs over 32kg Best Use Case Everyday comfort, guest bed, younger dog Ongoing joint support, stiffness, recovery It’s usually worth spending more if your dog: is older and seems stiff after naps is a giant breed putting lots of weight on the bed every day has arthritis, hip issues, or reduced mobility needs a bed that won’t flatten too quickly If your dog is still growing, or just needs a comfortable everyday spot, a simpler orthopedic dog bed for large dogs can be the smarter buy. But if you’re looking for longer-lasting support, especially for a big dog who sleeps deeply and spends hours in bed, premium foam often earns its keep. You can browse Lords & Labradors’ luxury dog beds collection if you want to compare more supportive, extra large options. How to pick the best orthopedic bed for your large dog The right bed really does come down to knowing your dog — their size, how they sleep, and where they are in life. For younger large breeds who just need reliable everyday support, a quality memory foam dog bed with a washable cover is usually the sweet spot. Good cushioning, easy to keep clean, no unnecessary fuss. Older dogs, or those managing arthritis, stiff joints, or post-surgery recovery, need a bit more thought. Deeper foam, a lower entry point, and bolster sides they can actually lean into all make a real difference. Senior dogs tend to sleep longer and heavier, so that extra support earns its keep quickly. If your dog is a sprawler, a digger, or just reliably hard on everything they own, durability matters as much as foam quality. Look for reinforced covers and a dense base layer that holds its shape over months of use, not just the first few weeks. On budget, spending a little more upfront on an extra large orthopedic dog bed almost always makes more sense than replacing a cheaper one every year. A good bed can genuinely grow with your dog's needs as they age. Ultimately, the best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs are the ones that fit your specific dog — their weight, their sleep style, their life stage. That combination will always matter more than any single feature on a label.  

    By Adele Busby

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  • Why Do Puppies Bite So Much
    24.06.26 June 24, 2026 Getting A Puppy Featured

    Why Do Puppies Bite So Much

    If you have ever looked down at your hands after a play session and wondered why puppies bite so much, the good news is that you are dealing with one of the most normal things a puppy can do. In this article we cover the real reasons behind all that mouthing and nipping, how to teach your puppy to be gentler, and the simplest ways to redirect their energy to something more appropriate. We also help you recognise the moments when a little extra support from a vet or trainer might be worth reaching for. Why puppies bite so much in the first place If your puppy seems to bite everything and everyone in sight, you are not alone — and your puppy is not broken. Biting and mouthing are completely normal parts of early development, and once you understand why it happens, the whole thing feels a lot less stressful. The simplest way to think about it: a puppy’s mouth is their hands. Before they can explore, play, or communicate in any other way, they use their teeth. That table leg, your favourite jumper, your fingers at 7am before you’ve even had a coffee. All completely fair game as far as they’re concerned. A few things drive all that mouthing. Teething is a big one. Between roughly three and six months old, puppies are cutting new teeth, and chewing brings real relief from the discomfort. Then there’s play. Puppies learn how to interact through rough and tumble with their littermates, and they naturally bring that same energy into life with you. They’re also figuring out how hard they can actually bite, a process known as bite inhibition. When a sibling yelps and backs away, a puppy learns that biting too hard ends the fun. It’s a genuinely important life skill, and they need the chance to practise it. It’s also worth saying plainly: a puppy who bites a lot is not naughty or aggressive. They’re being a puppy, doing exactly what puppies are built to do at this stage. Understanding that is half the battle. The other half is making sure they have the right things to chew, play with, and explore from the very beginning. Teething, play, and overstimulation: the most common triggers Most owners asking why puppies bite so much will find the answer sitting in one of three places: teething discomfort, play instinct, or a puppy who has simply had too much going on. Once you know which trigger you’re dealing with, the behaviour starts to make a lot more sense. Common triggers to watch for: Evening zoomies followed by frantic nipping — an overtired puppy loses self-control fast, just like a toddler past their bedtime Mouthing during tug or fetch games — play drive kicks in and your hands become part of the fun Nibbling after a busy socialisation session — too much stimulation leaves puppies wired and struggling to settle Chewing fingers and furniture around 12 to 20 weeks — incoming adult teeth cause real discomfort, and puppies chew to relieve it Nipping when you reach down to stroke them — excitement and touch combine into a grabby, mouthy moment Biting during training sessions that run too long — concentration runs out and frustration takes over Worth knowing: Puppies start losing their baby teeth from around 12 weeks, with most adult teeth coming through between 12 and 24 weeks. This is one of the most intense periods for puppy teething, and it often explains why your puppy seems to be nipping constantly at this stage. Recognising these trigger moments is genuinely half the battle when it comes to how to stop puppy biting. The behaviour is completely normal at this age and usually peaks before gradually fading as your puppy matures. Keeping a good selection of puppy toys within easy reach means you can redirect quickly the moment you spot a trigger building — before teeth find your hands instead. How to teach bite inhibition without upsetting your puppy Bite inhibition sounds technical, but it really just means teaching your puppy that human skin is off-limits — and it is absolutely something they can learn. Understanding why puppies bite so much makes this easier, because you know it is not bad behaviour, just communication. Calm, consistent training works brilliantly here, with no raised voices or startled pups required. Stop play the moment teeth touch skin. Go completely still and quiet. Avoid pulling your hand away sharply, as that can actually make the whole thing more exciting for your puppy. Use a simple, neutral cue like “ouch” or “too much” in a calm, flat tone. You are not telling them off, just letting them know the fun has paused. Redirect to a chew toy within a few seconds. Offer it calmly and let your puppy settle into it. This gives them something appropriate to sink their teeth into. Reward gentle mouthing or soft contact with quiet praise or a small treat. You are reinforcing what you do want, not just reacting to what you do not. Keep it consistent across the whole household. Every person, every time. A quick note on consistency: Mixed signals from different family members are one of the most common reasons puppy biting stages feel like they drag on. If one person lets the puppy mouth their hands during a play session, the lesson starts to unravel. Everyone needs to follow the same approach. The goal is never punishment. It is clear, kind communication. When you understand why puppies bite, you can respond in a way that works with how they naturally learn — and that makes the whole process faster and far less stressful for everyone involved. What to do instead: redirecting to toys and setting your puppy up for success Once you understand why puppies bite so much, the solution gets a lot clearer: they need something better to sink their teeth into. Redirection is one of the most effective tools you have, and with a little consistency, it genuinely works. Swap immediately, not eventually. The moment teeth touch skin or clothing, calmly remove your hand and offer a toy instead. No drama, no delay. The swap itself is the lesson. Use cooling chews for teething relief. During a heavy teething stage, a chilled rubber chew can make a real difference. Pop it in the freezer for an hour before play and let the cold do the soothing work. Reach for the right toy. Lords & Labradors puppy toys are designed with teething puppies in mind, with textures and resistance that actually satisfy the urge to gnaw. A toy that feels good to chew is one that gets used. Keep play sessions structured. Short, calm sessions are your friend. Overstimulation turns even the gentlest puppies mouthy, so watch for the signs and wind things down before they tip over the edge. Build in calm-down breaks. If your puppy is too fired up to redirect, a quiet pause in their crate or pen gives them a chance to reset. Every redirect counts: puppies learn through repetition, so the more consistently you make the swap, the faster it sticks. Setting your puppy up for success really comes down to managing their environment and energy before biting becomes the default outlet. Keep appropriate chews within easy reach, keep play sessions manageable, and trust that small, consistent moments genuinely add up. When normal mouthing becomes a problem worth getting help for Most puppy biting is completely normal, and with consistency, it does ease off. But it’s worth pausing every now and then to ask whether something more might be going on. If your puppy’s biting still feels relentless after weeks of calm, consistent redirection, it’s worth talking to a qualified trainer. The same applies if bites are regularly hard and don’t seem connected to play, if your puppy snaps when anyone goes near their food, toys, or bed, or if their reactions feel more fearful than excited. None of that makes them a bad puppy. It just means you’d both benefit from a little extra support. Pain is worth considering too. Teething can make puppies genuinely sore and out of sorts, and some pups bite more simply because they’re uncomfortable. If your puppy seems distressed beyond the usual nipping and wriggling, a quick vet check is a sensible place to start. One of the most useful things you can do in the meantime is learn to read what your puppy is telling you before the biting even begins. Spotting the early signals makes it so much easier to respond well. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a really helpful starting point. And here’s the reassuring bit: for the vast majority of puppies, the biting does pass. With patience, the right toys, and a bit of guidance, most pups grow into gentle, settled dogs who’ve figured out how to use their mouths kindly.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Why Does My Dog Lay On My Pillow When I Get Up
    23.06.26 June 23, 2026 Owning a Dog Featured

    Why Does My Dog Lay On My Pillow When I Get Up

    There is something quietly wonderful about a dog who gravitates straight to your pillow the moment you get up, and if you have ever found yourself wondering why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up, the reasons are far sweeter than you might expect. In this article, we look at the real instincts behind the behaviour, from scent-seeking and warmth to the bond your dog feels with you, and how to tell the difference between simple affection and something worth keeping an eye on. We also share some gentle, practical ways to redirect the habit so everyone gets a good night’s sleep. Why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up? You roll out of bed, pop the kettle on, and come back to find your dog curled up on your pillow like it was always meant to be theirs. If that sounds familiar, you’re definitely not the only one asking, why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up? In most cases, the answer is really quite sweet. Your pillow is full of your scent, still warm from where you were lying, and wonderfully soft. For a dog, that combination is hard to resist. If you’ve ever wondered why does my dog sleep on my pillow or why does my dog lay in my spot after I get up, it usually comes down to comfort and closeness rather than cheekiness. Dogs are comfort-seekers, and your smell helps them feel safe and settled. Add a cosy, just-vacated sleeping spot, and it makes perfect sense that they’d choose it. It’s also why some dogs sleep in their owner’s bed or hop straight into your seat on the sofa the second you stand up. They’re not trying to take over the house. They just like being close to their favourite person in the cosiest way possible. For most dogs, this little pillow takeover is completely normal and affectionate. If you’d rather keep your pillow for yourself, it can help to offer an inviting alternative, like one of these cosy puppy beds, so they still get that same sense of comfort nearby. The real reasons your dog has claimed your pillow If you’ve ever asked yourself why your dog lays on your pillow the moment you get up, you’re in very good company. It’s one of those habits that looks a little cheeky on the surface but is actually rooted in some genuinely sweet instincts — and a few practical ones too. Scent comfort: Your scent is at its strongest on your pillow, which means lying there feels, to your dog, like you haven’t fully gone anywhere. Dogs experience the world nose-first, and being wrapped in your familiar smell is genuinely calming for them. It’s their version of holding onto a little piece of you. Warmth-seeking: That spot where you’ve been sleeping holds your body heat long after you’ve got up. Dogs are natural warmth-seekers, and a pillow that’s already perfectly warm is simply irresistible. Think of it as the canine equivalent of pinching your jumper off the sofa. Territorial behaviour: Some dogs aren’t just after comfort — they’re making a quiet claim on the space. Lying in your spot is a way of anchoring themselves to it. This is rarely about dominance in the way older thinking suggested; it’s more about feeling settled and secure in their environment. Separation proximity: Dogs who feel especially bonded to their owners often want to close the gap the moment you leave the room. For those with a strong need to stay near your scent, a dedicated space of their own — somewhere soft, familiar, and genuinely cosy, like a calming crate bed — can really help them settle without needing to raid yours. Most pillow-claiming is simple habit or affection. If your dog seems distressed when you get up rather than just opportunistic, that’s worth a closer look — but we’ll come to that. The majority of the time, this is your dog’s way of staying close to you. The rest of this article will help you make sense of exactly what they’re telling you. What your dog is telling you with this little pillow takeover When your dog shuffles over to claim your pillow the moment you get up, they’re not just after the fluffiest spot in the room. It’s a form of communication — a quiet way of staying close to you even after you’ve left. Think of it as their version of keeping a hand on the connection. Here are some of the emotional signals this behaviour can carry: Bonding and affection. Your dog loves you, and your pillow smells exactly like you. Sleeping where you slept is one of the most direct ways they can express that closeness. Comfort through your scent. Your smell genuinely soothes them. It triggers feelings of safety, especially for dogs who are sensitive to shifts in routine or a bit more anxious by nature. Mild reassurance-seeking. If your dog tends to follow your every move, lying in your spot is their way of holding onto your presence while you’re in another room making coffee. Staying connected while you go about your day. It’s a small act of loyalty. A quiet way of saying, I was with you, and I’m still with you. Social signalling. Sharing sleep spaces is deeply meaningful to dogs. It reinforces trust and the kind of closeness that makes them feel secure. Did You Know? Dogs have up to 300 million olfactory receptors, compared to around six million in humans. Your pillow isn’t just fabric to them — it’s an emotional anchor, loaded with your scent and everything that makes them feel safe. Taken together, these signals point to something genuinely reassuring: pillow-stealing is nearly always a sign of healthy attachment. If you want to get better at reading these small, sweet moments, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a brilliant place to start. When pillow stealing is harmless — and when to pay a bit more attention For the vast majority of dogs, pillow stealing is one of those completely harmless quirks that just comes with the territory of sharing your life with them. Usually just sweet Seeking out your scent because it feels safe and familiar Settling into the warmth you’ve left behind in the bedding Following a little morning routine they’ve quietly established for themselves Simply wanting to stay close to you, even after you’ve left the room If you’ve ever asked yourself why your dog lays on your pillow when you get up, the answer is almost always rooted in affection and comfort. Nothing to worry about. Worth a closer look Clinginess that follows you through the whole day, not just at bedtime Visible distress when left alone — panting, pacing, or whining Growling or stiffening if you approach the pillow while they’re on it A sudden change in sleep habits that feels out of character That last one is worth paying attention to. Dogs are creatures of habit, so anything that shifts noticeably is worth a gentle check-in with your vet. Most dogs simply want closeness and comfort, and having their own inviting space to settle into can genuinely help with that. If your dog could do with a snug spot to call their own, our Sleepy Burrows collection is a lovely place to start. Either way, knowing what’s normal for your dog is always the most reliable guide. How to keep everyone happy at bedtime and beyond If your dog has claimed your pillow as their personal throne, you really don’t need to wage war over it. A few small, thoughtful changes can make bedtime work beautifully for both of you. Start by giving your dog a sleeping spot they actually want to use. The reason so many dogs sleep on your pillow comes down to scent and safety, so the goal is simply to recreate that feeling somewhere else. Try placing their bed in your bedroom, close to yours if possible, and tuck a worn t-shirt or old pillowcase inside it. That familiar smell does a surprising amount of reassuring work without you having to do much else. Routine is your other best friend here. Dogs who know what to expect at bedtime tend to settle faster and feel far less compelled to claim your spot the moment you leave it. A short pre-bed walk, a calm wind-down, and a consistent “go to your bed” cue can gently shift the habit over time — no stress, no drama. For dogs who burrow into your bedding seeking that cosy, held feeling, the sleeping surface really matters. Something like the Sleepy Burrows Bed in Calming Anti-Anxiety Dusk Faux Fur is designed for exactly that type of dog — the ones who want to sink in and feel wrapped up rather than simply lie on top of something flat. Pillow stealers tend to fall into this category more often than not. The goal isn’t to take something away from your dog. It’s to give them something just as good, somewhere that feels entirely their own.

    By Adele Busby

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Luxury Products For Dogs & Cats

Lords and Labradors make luxury bedding and accessories for dogs and cats. It all started with the doggy chesterfield – a dog bed designed to look like a real chesterfield sofa. It was so popular and the idea for Lords & Labradors was born. The brand has expanded to make... Read more