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  • Why Do Puppies Bite So Much
    24.06.26 June 24, 2026 Getting A Puppy Featured

    Why Do Puppies Bite So Much

    If you have ever looked down at your hands after a play session and wondered why puppies bite so much, the good news is that you are dealing with one of the most normal things a puppy can do. In this article we cover the real reasons behind all that mouthing and nipping, how to teach your puppy to be gentler, and the simplest ways to redirect their energy to something more appropriate. We also help you recognise the moments when a little extra support from a vet or trainer might be worth reaching for. Why puppies bite so much in the first place If your puppy seems to bite everything and everyone in sight, you are not alone — and your puppy is not broken. Biting and mouthing are completely normal parts of early development, and once you understand why it happens, the whole thing feels a lot less stressful. The simplest way to think about it: a puppy’s mouth is their hands. Before they can explore, play, or communicate in any other way, they use their teeth. That table leg, your favourite jumper, your fingers at 7am before you’ve even had a coffee. All completely fair game as far as they’re concerned. A few things drive all that mouthing. Teething is a big one. Between roughly three and six months old, puppies are cutting new teeth, and chewing brings real relief from the discomfort. Then there’s play. Puppies learn how to interact through rough and tumble with their littermates, and they naturally bring that same energy into life with you. They’re also figuring out how hard they can actually bite, a process known as bite inhibition. When a sibling yelps and backs away, a puppy learns that biting too hard ends the fun. It’s a genuinely important life skill, and they need the chance to practise it. It’s also worth saying plainly: a puppy who bites a lot is not naughty or aggressive. They’re being a puppy, doing exactly what puppies are built to do at this stage. Understanding that is half the battle. The other half is making sure they have the right things to chew, play with, and explore from the very beginning. Teething, play, and overstimulation: the most common triggers Most owners asking why puppies bite so much will find the answer sitting in one of three places: teething discomfort, play instinct, or a puppy who has simply had too much going on. Once you know which trigger you’re dealing with, the behaviour starts to make a lot more sense. Common triggers to watch for: Evening zoomies followed by frantic nipping — an overtired puppy loses self-control fast, just like a toddler past their bedtime Mouthing during tug or fetch games — play drive kicks in and your hands become part of the fun Nibbling after a busy socialisation session — too much stimulation leaves puppies wired and struggling to settle Chewing fingers and furniture around 12 to 20 weeks — incoming adult teeth cause real discomfort, and puppies chew to relieve it Nipping when you reach down to stroke them — excitement and touch combine into a grabby, mouthy moment Biting during training sessions that run too long — concentration runs out and frustration takes over Worth knowing: Puppies start losing their baby teeth from around 12 weeks, with most adult teeth coming through between 12 and 24 weeks. This is one of the most intense periods for puppy teething, and it often explains why your puppy seems to be nipping constantly at this stage. Recognising these trigger moments is genuinely half the battle when it comes to how to stop puppy biting. The behaviour is completely normal at this age and usually peaks before gradually fading as your puppy matures. Keeping a good selection of puppy toys within easy reach means you can redirect quickly the moment you spot a trigger building — before teeth find your hands instead. How to teach bite inhibition without upsetting your puppy Bite inhibition sounds technical, but it really just means teaching your puppy that human skin is off-limits — and it is absolutely something they can learn. Understanding why puppies bite so much makes this easier, because you know it is not bad behaviour, just communication. Calm, consistent training works brilliantly here, with no raised voices or startled pups required. Stop play the moment teeth touch skin. Go completely still and quiet. Avoid pulling your hand away sharply, as that can actually make the whole thing more exciting for your puppy. Use a simple, neutral cue like “ouch” or “too much” in a calm, flat tone. You are not telling them off, just letting them know the fun has paused. Redirect to a chew toy within a few seconds. Offer it calmly and let your puppy settle into it. This gives them something appropriate to sink their teeth into. Reward gentle mouthing or soft contact with quiet praise or a small treat. You are reinforcing what you do want, not just reacting to what you do not. Keep it consistent across the whole household. Every person, every time. A quick note on consistency: Mixed signals from different family members are one of the most common reasons puppy biting stages feel like they drag on. If one person lets the puppy mouth their hands during a play session, the lesson starts to unravel. Everyone needs to follow the same approach. The goal is never punishment. It is clear, kind communication. When you understand why puppies bite, you can respond in a way that works with how they naturally learn — and that makes the whole process faster and far less stressful for everyone involved. What to do instead: redirecting to toys and setting your puppy up for success Once you understand why puppies bite so much, the solution gets a lot clearer: they need something better to sink their teeth into. Redirection is one of the most effective tools you have, and with a little consistency, it genuinely works. Swap immediately, not eventually. The moment teeth touch skin or clothing, calmly remove your hand and offer a toy instead. No drama, no delay. The swap itself is the lesson. Use cooling chews for teething relief. During a heavy teething stage, a chilled rubber chew can make a real difference. Pop it in the freezer for an hour before play and let the cold do the soothing work. Reach for the right toy. Lords & Labradors puppy toys are designed with teething puppies in mind, with textures and resistance that actually satisfy the urge to gnaw. A toy that feels good to chew is one that gets used. Keep play sessions structured. Short, calm sessions are your friend. Overstimulation turns even the gentlest puppies mouthy, so watch for the signs and wind things down before they tip over the edge. Build in calm-down breaks. If your puppy is too fired up to redirect, a quiet pause in their crate or pen gives them a chance to reset. Every redirect counts: puppies learn through repetition, so the more consistently you make the swap, the faster it sticks. Setting your puppy up for success really comes down to managing their environment and energy before biting becomes the default outlet. Keep appropriate chews within easy reach, keep play sessions manageable, and trust that small, consistent moments genuinely add up. When normal mouthing becomes a problem worth getting help for Most puppy biting is completely normal, and with consistency, it does ease off. But it’s worth pausing every now and then to ask whether something more might be going on. If your puppy’s biting still feels relentless after weeks of calm, consistent redirection, it’s worth talking to a qualified trainer. The same applies if bites are regularly hard and don’t seem connected to play, if your puppy snaps when anyone goes near their food, toys, or bed, or if their reactions feel more fearful than excited. None of that makes them a bad puppy. It just means you’d both benefit from a little extra support. Pain is worth considering too. Teething can make puppies genuinely sore and out of sorts, and some pups bite more simply because they’re uncomfortable. If your puppy seems distressed beyond the usual nipping and wriggling, a quick vet check is a sensible place to start. One of the most useful things you can do in the meantime is learn to read what your puppy is telling you before the biting even begins. Spotting the early signals makes it so much easier to respond well. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a really helpful starting point. And here’s the reassuring bit: for the vast majority of puppies, the biting does pass. With patience, the right toys, and a bit of guidance, most pups grow into gentle, settled dogs who’ve figured out how to use their mouths kindly.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Why Does My Dog Lay On My Pillow When I Get Up
    23.06.26 June 23, 2026 Owning a Dog Featured

    Why Does My Dog Lay On My Pillow When I Get Up

    There is something quietly wonderful about a dog who gravitates straight to your pillow the moment you get up, and if you have ever found yourself wondering why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up, the reasons are far sweeter than you might expect. In this article, we look at the real instincts behind the behaviour, from scent-seeking and warmth to the bond your dog feels with you, and how to tell the difference between simple affection and something worth keeping an eye on. We also share some gentle, practical ways to redirect the habit so everyone gets a good night’s sleep. Why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up? You roll out of bed, pop the kettle on, and come back to find your dog curled up on your pillow like it was always meant to be theirs. If that sounds familiar, you’re definitely not the only one asking, why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up? In most cases, the answer is really quite sweet. Your pillow is full of your scent, still warm from where you were lying, and wonderfully soft. For a dog, that combination is hard to resist. If you’ve ever wondered why does my dog sleep on my pillow or why does my dog lay in my spot after I get up, it usually comes down to comfort and closeness rather than cheekiness. Dogs are comfort-seekers, and your smell helps them feel safe and settled. Add a cosy, just-vacated sleeping spot, and it makes perfect sense that they’d choose it. It’s also why some dogs sleep in their owner’s bed or hop straight into your seat on the sofa the second you stand up. They’re not trying to take over the house. They just like being close to their favourite person in the cosiest way possible. For most dogs, this little pillow takeover is completely normal and affectionate. If you’d rather keep your pillow for yourself, it can help to offer an inviting alternative, like one of these cosy puppy beds, so they still get that same sense of comfort nearby. The real reasons your dog has claimed your pillow If you’ve ever asked yourself why your dog lays on your pillow the moment you get up, you’re in very good company. It’s one of those habits that looks a little cheeky on the surface but is actually rooted in some genuinely sweet instincts — and a few practical ones too. Scent comfort: Your scent is at its strongest on your pillow, which means lying there feels, to your dog, like you haven’t fully gone anywhere. Dogs experience the world nose-first, and being wrapped in your familiar smell is genuinely calming for them. It’s their version of holding onto a little piece of you. Warmth-seeking: That spot where you’ve been sleeping holds your body heat long after you’ve got up. Dogs are natural warmth-seekers, and a pillow that’s already perfectly warm is simply irresistible. Think of it as the canine equivalent of pinching your jumper off the sofa. Territorial behaviour: Some dogs aren’t just after comfort — they’re making a quiet claim on the space. Lying in your spot is a way of anchoring themselves to it. This is rarely about dominance in the way older thinking suggested; it’s more about feeling settled and secure in their environment. Separation proximity: Dogs who feel especially bonded to their owners often want to close the gap the moment you leave the room. For those with a strong need to stay near your scent, a dedicated space of their own — somewhere soft, familiar, and genuinely cosy, like a calming crate bed — can really help them settle without needing to raid yours. Most pillow-claiming is simple habit or affection. If your dog seems distressed when you get up rather than just opportunistic, that’s worth a closer look — but we’ll come to that. The majority of the time, this is your dog’s way of staying close to you. The rest of this article will help you make sense of exactly what they’re telling you. What your dog is telling you with this little pillow takeover When your dog shuffles over to claim your pillow the moment you get up, they’re not just after the fluffiest spot in the room. It’s a form of communication — a quiet way of staying close to you even after you’ve left. Think of it as their version of keeping a hand on the connection. Here are some of the emotional signals this behaviour can carry: Bonding and affection. Your dog loves you, and your pillow smells exactly like you. Sleeping where you slept is one of the most direct ways they can express that closeness. Comfort through your scent. Your smell genuinely soothes them. It triggers feelings of safety, especially for dogs who are sensitive to shifts in routine or a bit more anxious by nature. Mild reassurance-seeking. If your dog tends to follow your every move, lying in your spot is their way of holding onto your presence while you’re in another room making coffee. Staying connected while you go about your day. It’s a small act of loyalty. A quiet way of saying, I was with you, and I’m still with you. Social signalling. Sharing sleep spaces is deeply meaningful to dogs. It reinforces trust and the kind of closeness that makes them feel secure. Did You Know? Dogs have up to 300 million olfactory receptors, compared to around six million in humans. Your pillow isn’t just fabric to them — it’s an emotional anchor, loaded with your scent and everything that makes them feel safe. Taken together, these signals point to something genuinely reassuring: pillow-stealing is nearly always a sign of healthy attachment. If you want to get better at reading these small, sweet moments, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a brilliant place to start. When pillow stealing is harmless — and when to pay a bit more attention For the vast majority of dogs, pillow stealing is one of those completely harmless quirks that just comes with the territory of sharing your life with them. Usually just sweet Seeking out your scent because it feels safe and familiar Settling into the warmth you’ve left behind in the bedding Following a little morning routine they’ve quietly established for themselves Simply wanting to stay close to you, even after you’ve left the room If you’ve ever asked yourself why your dog lays on your pillow when you get up, the answer is almost always rooted in affection and comfort. Nothing to worry about. Worth a closer look Clinginess that follows you through the whole day, not just at bedtime Visible distress when left alone — panting, pacing, or whining Growling or stiffening if you approach the pillow while they’re on it A sudden change in sleep habits that feels out of character That last one is worth paying attention to. Dogs are creatures of habit, so anything that shifts noticeably is worth a gentle check-in with your vet. Most dogs simply want closeness and comfort, and having their own inviting space to settle into can genuinely help with that. If your dog could do with a snug spot to call their own, our Sleepy Burrows collection is a lovely place to start. Either way, knowing what’s normal for your dog is always the most reliable guide. How to keep everyone happy at bedtime and beyond If your dog has claimed your pillow as their personal throne, you really don’t need to wage war over it. A few small, thoughtful changes can make bedtime work beautifully for both of you. Start by giving your dog a sleeping spot they actually want to use. The reason so many dogs sleep on your pillow comes down to scent and safety, so the goal is simply to recreate that feeling somewhere else. Try placing their bed in your bedroom, close to yours if possible, and tuck a worn t-shirt or old pillowcase inside it. That familiar smell does a surprising amount of reassuring work without you having to do much else. Routine is your other best friend here. Dogs who know what to expect at bedtime tend to settle faster and feel far less compelled to claim your spot the moment you leave it. A short pre-bed walk, a calm wind-down, and a consistent “go to your bed” cue can gently shift the habit over time — no stress, no drama. For dogs who burrow into your bedding seeking that cosy, held feeling, the sleeping surface really matters. Something like the Sleepy Burrows Bed in Calming Anti-Anxiety Dusk Faux Fur is designed for exactly that type of dog — the ones who want to sink in and feel wrapped up rather than simply lie on top of something flat. Pillow stealers tend to fall into this category more often than not. The goal isn’t to take something away from your dog. It’s to give them something just as good, somewhere that feels entirely their own.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Dog Lies Down On Walk and Refuses to Move
    17.06.26 June 17, 2026 Owning a Dog Featured

    Dog Lies Down On Walk and Refuses to Move

    Few things throw off a walk quite like your dog deciding, mid-route, that they’re done and planting themselves firmly on the ground. Whether your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move out of exhaustion, fear, pain, or sheer stubbornness, there’s almost always a reason behind it worth understanding. This guide walks you through the most common causes, what to do when it happens, warning signs to take seriously, and how to set up better walks going forward. Why your dog lies down on walks in the first place One moment you’re halfway through a perfectly pleasant walk, and the next your dog has flopped onto the pavement and is refusing to budge. Sound familiar? If your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, you’re far from alone — and before you start wondering if you’ve somehow raised the world’s most strong-willed dog, it helps to understand what’s actually going on. Here’s the thing: when a dog stops walking and lies down, they’re almost always trying to tell you something. It might feel frustrating in the moment, especially if you’re stood on a busy pavement with the lead pulled taut, but this behaviour is usually communication, not defiance. Dogs can’t say “I’m worn out” or “that noise is really scaring me,” so sometimes their whole body does the talking instead. The reasons behind it vary more than you might expect. Some dogs sit down or lie down mid-walk because they’re genuinely tired or starting to overheat. Others do it because something has made them anxious or uneasy. Pain and physical discomfort are worth considering too, particularly in older dogs or breeds that are prone to joint problems. And yes, occasionally a dog simply decides the walk is over and plants themselves on the ground with impressive conviction. Working out which of these is actually happening is the real starting point. If you’re still getting to grips with how your dog expresses themselves, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a great place to start. The sections ahead cover each cause in detail, along with what you can do about them. The most common reasons a dog suddenly stops and flops down There are plenty of moments in dog ownership that leave you standing on the pavement, lead in hand, completely baffled. When your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, it can feel equal parts frustrating and worrying. The good news? Once you know what to look for, the cause is usually easier to spot than you’d think. Physical tiredness: Puppies, older dogs, and shorter-legged breeds can simply run out of steam faster than others. If your dog has been bounding along enthusiastically and then suddenly flops down, they may have just hit their limit. Heavy breathing, a gradual slowdown beforehand, and reluctance to get back up are all signs pointing this way. Overheating: Dogs regulate heat very differently to us, and hot pavements can make things worse fast. If your dog stops and lies down alongside excessive panting, drooling, or a desperate search for shade, heat is likely the culprit — and it’s one that always warrants a quick response. Fear or sensory overwhelm: Loud traffic, unfamiliar dogs, or a busy new environment can cause some dogs to shut down completely mid-walk. Look for tucked ears, a low body posture, or a pattern of stopping in the same spot rather than randomly. Pain or physical discomfort: A dog that sits down during a walk and won’t get going again could be dealing with sore paws, joint pain, or something more acute. Limping, flinching, or repeatedly licking one area are all worth taking seriously. Learned behaviour: If lying down has reliably earned your dog a rest, a treat, or a u-turn home, there’s a good chance they’ve figured out it works. This one tends to happen in predictable places, often close to home near the end of a walk. The same behaviour — a dog refusing to walk on the lead and dropping to the ground — can mean very different things depending on context. Paying attention to patterns and timing will tell you far more than the moment itself. What to do in the moment when your dog refuses to move When your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, the first thing to do is take a breath. Pulling, pushing, or getting frustrated rarely helps, and it can actually make things worse. How you handle that standoff moment matters more than you might think. Check for heat or injury first. Feel their paws against the pavement, look for any limping or flinching, and check whether they’re panting more than usual. If something seems physically off, end the walk right there. No destination is worth pushing through pain. Offer water. It sounds simple, but a tired or overheated dog often just needs a drink and a moment to recover. Get into the habit of carrying water on every walk, especially through spring and summer. Look for what might be worrying them. A loud lorry rumbling past, an off-lead dog bounding over, a cluster of rowdy kids — any of these could be the reason your dog stops walking and lies down. If you can spot a trigger, move away from it before asking them to walk on. Try changing direction. A simple about-turn can do a lot. Heading somewhere new often sparks enough curiosity to get them back on their feet without any fuss. Bring out the good stuff. A small piece of chicken or cheese held just ahead of them can be all the encouragement they need. Keep the energy light and positive rather than tense or coaxing. Know when to call it. If your dog is small enough to carry, carry them. If they’re exhausted or overwhelmed, cutting the walk short is the right call, full stop. Dragging them forward doesn’t build confidence — it just erodes trust. A little patience and observation will take you much further than frustration. That said, if your dog regularly flops down mid-walk, it’s worth looking beyond the moment to understand what’s really going on. How to tell if it’s a one-off wobble or a sign something’s wrong Most of the time, when your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, it’s nothing to worry about. But knowing what to look for can make all the difference between brushing it off and catching something early. A one-off flop on a warm afternoon, or a puppy who plonks themselves down mid-pavement and loses all interest in moving, is usually harmless. It starts to feel worth a closer look when it keeps happening, appears out of nowhere, or comes alongside physical changes you can’t quite explain. Likely harmless if… It happens once or very occasionally Your dog bounces back quickly and carries on as normal The pavement is hot or the weather is warm Your dog was overexcited before heading out There are no other symptoms Your dog stops and lies down near something interesting — a scent, another dog, a friendly stranger Red flags to watch for Limping, stiffness, or reluctance to put weight on a leg Whimpering or flinching when touched Trembling or shaking that isn’t cold-related Heavy panting without an obvious cause A sudden shift in their usual walk behaviour Repeated refusal across several walks in a row Low energy or lethargy at home too, not just on walks Quick rule of thumb: If the refusal is sudden, keeps repeating, or comes with any physical symptom, treat it as a vet conversation — not a training problem. When you do speak to your vet, it helps to have a rough timeline ready: when it started, how often your dog refuses to walk or lies down mid-route, and anything else you’ve noticed. The more detail you can give them, the easier it is to get to the bottom of it. How to prevent future walk standoffs The good news is that a few small changes can make a real difference to how your dog feels about walks — and how willing they are to keep going. Start with timing. Walking in the cooler hours of the morning or evening during warmer months helps dogs stay comfortable and energised. Midday in summer is often when you’ll see a dog lie down on a walk and refuse to move — not out of stubbornness, but because the pavement is scorching and the air feels thick. For puppies and older dogs, keeping walks age-appropriate matters more than most people realise. Young dogs are still building joints and stamina, and too much too soon leads to tired, reluctant walkers. A solid rule of thumb for puppies is five minutes per month of age, twice a day. Older dogs often do better with shorter, more frequent outings than one long haul. Our guide to exercise across your dog’s life stages is worth a read if you want to tailor things further. It’s also worth checking your gear. A poorly fitted harness or collar can cause enough discomfort to make a dog sit down mid-walk, even if you can’t immediately see why. A well-fitted, comfortable harness removes that barrier before it becomes a habit. Finally, make walks something your dog genuinely looks forward to. Vary your routes, let them sniff freely, and keep a few high-value treats in your pocket. Dogs who find walks rewarding rarely need much convincing to keep moving.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Dog refuses to Walk Certain Directions
    12.06.26 June 12, 2026 Owning a Dog Featured

    Dog refuses to Walk Certain Directions

    Few things throw off a walk quite like a dog who plants their paws and flatly refuses to go the direction you had in mind. If your dog refuses to walk certain directions, there’s nearly always a reason behind it, whether that’s fear, discomfort, or simply a strong opinion about where the good smells are. This guide covers how to tell those causes apart, what you can do to gently build confidence back up, and when it’s worth calling in a vet or behaviourist for extra support. Why your dog suddenly refuses to walk one way If your dog suddenly plants their paws and refuses to move in a certain direction, it can feel completely baffling — especially when they were perfectly happy heading that way last week. But this is rarely stubbornness. Most of the time, your dog is trying to tell you something. Dogs build strong associations with the places they visit, and those associations can form faster than you might expect. A route that takes you past a noisy building site, a garden where a dog charges the fence, or even a spot where something once startled them can quickly become somewhere they’d rather avoid. When your dog stops walking or pulls back on the lead heading a particular way, that’s communication, not defiance. It’s also worth taking seriously. The more often a dog is pushed through something that worries them, the stronger that negative association tends to become. Understanding what’s driving the behaviour, on the other hand, gives you a real chance to actually help. The signals are usually there if you know what to look for: a tucked tail, flattened ears, a sudden reluctance to move forward, or frantic sniffing to avoid making eye contact with whatever’s ahead. These are all your dog’s way of saying “I’m not sure about this.” Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a great starting point if you’d like to get better at reading those cues before we dig into the causes. The most common reasons dogs avoid certain routes There’s almost always a reason when a dog refuses to walk certain directions, even if it isn’t immediately obvious. Dogs can’t tell us what’s wrong, so their behaviour on the lead is often the clearest signal we have. Pinning down the cause is the first step to making walks enjoyable again for both of you. Fear or negative associations. A dog that freezes outside a particular house, digs their paws in near a certain gate, or turns back at the same point every time has often had a bad experience there. It might have been something that only happened once — a sudden loud noise or an unexpected run-in with another dog — but the memory sticks. That reluctance isn’t defiance. It’s self-protection. Stubbornness or personal preference. Some dogs simply have opinions about where they want to go. One that consistently pulls toward home, or always steers for the park and resists anywhere else, is usually showing a preference rather than fear. It’s especially common in dogs who’ve settled into a comfortable routine and aren’t particularly interested in anything that disrupts it. Overstimulation from busy environments. A dog that shuts down near traffic or crowded streets is often overwhelmed, not difficult. The noise, movement, and unpredictability can become genuinely too much to process. Dogs pushed past their threshold may also start barking on walks, which is worth paying attention to as another sign that they’re struggling. Physical pain or discomfort. If your dog slows right down, starts labouring on a slope, or suddenly stops after turning a particular corner, pain could easily be the reason. Rough surfaces, uneven ground, or an underlying joint issue can all make certain routes feel uncomfortable in ways that are easy to miss until you know what to look for. Each of these behaviours is your dog’s way of trying to tell you something. Recognising which pattern fits yours is where the real progress begins. How to tell fear, pain, and simple preferences apart When a dog refuses to walk certain directions, the behaviour usually falls into one of three categories: fear, physical discomfort, or a plain old preference. The good news? Your dog’s body language will often tell you which one you’re dealing with — you just need to know what to look for. Signs it may be fear or anxiety Ears flattened against the head Tail tucked under the body Panting without any physical exertion Freezing mid-walk and refusing to budge Whale eye (whites of the eyes showing) Pulling back hard on the lead Barking or lunging at a specific spot on the route Signs it may be pain or physical discomfort Stopping suddenly at the same point on a familiar route Limping or favouring one leg Reluctance to put weight on a paw Slowing pace noticeably over time Whimpering or vocalising when encouraged to move forward Stiffness after resting, particularly in older dogs Worth knowing: Fear responses are usually triggered by something your dog sees, hears, or smells. Pain responses tend to be consistent, progressive, or tied directly to movement. Simple preferences are a different thing entirely. If your dog enthusiastically pulls toward their favourite sniff spot or drags you down a familiar street with their tail up and body relaxed, that’s not a red flag — that’s just a dog with opinions. But if you’re noticing persistent freezing, any hint of lameness, or a sudden shift in how your dog behaves on walks, it’s worth a vet visit to rule out anything physical before you do anything else. Gentle training steps to rebuild confidence on tricky walks If your dog refuses to walk certain directions, think of confidence-building as lots of tiny wins rather than one big breakthrough. The goal is to help them feel safe enough to choose forward movement again. Keep early walks short and successful. Pick a route your dog already copes with and end before they feel overwhelmed. A calm five-minute outing is far more useful than a stressful twenty-minute one. Reward the choice to move. If your dog stops walking on walks or pulls back on the lead, watch for the smallest brave decision: one step forward, a relaxed glance at the trigger, or choosing to sniff and re-engage. Mark that moment with a treat or warm praise. Start farther away than you think. When a dog won’t walk in one direction, there is usually a point where they still feel okay. That is where training starts. If the post box, corner, or noisy road is too much, move back until their body softens, then build up gradually over several sessions. Make things predictable. Familiar routes, similar walk times, and a steady pace help nervous dogs settle. Once they are moving happily again, you can gently add in new directions. Use comfortable walking kit. A loose lead and a well-fitted harness can reduce pressure and help your dog feel more secure during desensitisation work. If you are reviewing your setup, a padded walking collection is a helpful example of softer, supportive kit. Stay consistent and calm. Your dog does not need perfect walks. They just need regular, low-pressure practice. Desensitisation means exposing your dog to the scary or tricky thing at a level they can cope with, then very slowly increasing the challenge as their confidence grows. When to speak to a vet or behaviourist Sometimes the kindest thing you can do is ask for help. If your dog refuses to walk certain directions and nothing you try seems to be making a difference, it’s a good sign that some expert guidance is in order. Start with your vet, especially if the refusal came on suddenly or out of nowhere. If your dog is also limping, slowing down on walks, or seeming stiff and reluctant at home, pain could easily be the culprit. Conditions like arthritis, soft tissue injuries, or sore paws can be surprisingly easy to miss, and they can look a lot like stubbornness from the outside. A quick health check rules out anything physical before you turn your attention to behaviour. If your vet gives the all-clear but your dog still pulls back on the leash, freezes, or refuses to go a certain way, a qualified behaviourist is your next call. This is particularly important when the avoidance feels emotional — rooted in fear or anxiety — because pushing through those moments without the right guidance can deepen the problem rather than resolve it. Look for someone accredited by the ABTC or APBC who uses positive, reward-based methods. A good behaviourist will work at your dog’s pace, help you understand what’s really going on, and give you a practical plan to move forward. Most dogs do get there with the right support behind them.

    By Adele Busby

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  • What Type of Harness is Best For a Puppy
    10.06.26 June 10, 2026 Featured

    What Type of Harness is Best For a Puppy

    Knowing what type of harness is best for a puppy feels like it should be simple, but between clip positions, harness styles, and sizing that actually fits a still-growing body, it quickly becomes a lot to take in. This guide cuts through the noise by comparing front-clip and back-clip designs, step-in and over-the-head styles, and the fit details that make the difference between a harness your puppy wears happily and one they escape from on the first walk. By the end, you’ll know exactly what to look for and feel confident picking a harness that suits your puppy right now. What type of harness is best for a puppy, and why it matters now If you’ve ever stared at a wall of harness options in a pet shop — or fallen down a rabbit hole of reviews online — you’re in good company. Most new puppy parents feel completely overwhelmed at this stage, and that’s understandable. There are a lot of choices. But it’s genuinely worth getting this right, because the harness you pick now will play a real role in how your puppy learns to walk on the lead. Here’s the thing: puppies aren’t just small adult dogs. Their bodies are still growing, their confidence is easily knocked, and their lead manners at eight or twelve weeks are, let’s be honest, basically zero. A well-fitted harness does two important things during this stage — it keeps pressure away from the throat and neck when your puppy inevitably lunges at a leaf or another dog, and it gives you a calmer, safer way to guide them without causing discomfort or creating bad associations with walking. The honest answer to what type of harness is best for a puppy is: it depends. Your puppy’s size, their temperament, how they feel about being handled, and where you are in training all influence the decision. A nervous, wriggly pup needs something different from a bold little Labrador who’s already trying to tow you down the street. The three things you’ll need to compare before buying are clip position, harness style, and sizing. This guide walks you through all of them. And if you’re still pulling together the rest of your puppy kit, our everything for your puppy collection is worth a browse alongside this. Front-clip or back-clip: which helps your puppy walk nicely? One of the first things new puppy parents puzzle over is what type of harness is best for a puppy that’s still working out how to walk on a lead. The honest answer? It comes down to behaviour. Where the lead clips on has a real effect on how much control you have and how your puppy moves, so matching the clip position to where your puppy is right now makes a genuine difference from the very first walk. Front-Clip Harness Back-Clip Harness Best for Puppies who pull or lunge Calm or settled walkers How it works Lead attaches at the chest, redirecting forward momentum Lead attaches at the back, allowing natural movement Walking benefit Gives you gentle steering control Comfortable and unrestrictive Ideal puppy type Energetic, easily distracted breeds Smaller breeds or puppies already walking well Front-clip harnesses work well when: Your puppy charges ahead the moment they spot another dog, a leaf, anything You want a puppy no-pull harness that gently discourages pulling without causing discomfort You need a bit more steering control during early lead training Back-clip harnesses are a good fit when: Your puppy is already fairly calm and consistent on the lead You have a smaller breed who feels more relaxed with less restriction across the chest Walks are short, low-key, and close to home Still in the pulling-everything stage? A front-clip style gives you more to work with. If your puppy is already walking reasonably well, back-clip is perfectly fine for everyday outings. This adjustable harness suits both walking styles and grows with your puppy, which makes it a solid starting point either way. Step-in or over-the-head: choosing the style your puppy will actually tolerate Choosing between a step-in and an over-the-head harness often comes down to one thing: how your puppy feels about getting dressed. Temperament and daily handling ease matter just as much as design features when you’re figuring out how to choose a harness for a puppy that actually works in real life. Factor Step-In Harness Over-the-Head Harness Ease of fitting Simple for wriggly puppies Quicker for calm, cooperative pups Best suited temperament Sensitive, anxious, or squirmy Relaxed and comfortable being handled Ideal puppy size Works well for small breeds Suits most sizes Owner experience level Great for first-time puppy parents Suits confident handlers Here’s where each style genuinely wins: Step-in harnesses are a lifesaver for puppies who panic when anything passes over their head — a surprisingly common sensitivity in young dogs, especially in the early weeks at home. They also work beautifully for small breed puppies, where threading legs through feels far more controlled than wrestling something over a tiny nose. Over-the-head styles clip on faster once your puppy is used to them, which makes a real difference on busy mornings. Puppies who’ve been well-handled from early on tend to settle into over-the-head designs without much fuss at all. Neither style is universally better. The right one is simply the harness your puppy accepts calmly and that you can fit quickly and correctly every single time. If you’re still putting together your puppy’s full kit, our guide to choosing the right collar is well worth a read alongside this. Getting the fit right: the sizing details that matter more than the label Even the best puppy harness will let you down if it doesn’t fit properly. Too loose and it can rub, slip, or give a wriggly puppy the gap they need to back out entirely. Too tight and it restricts movement, causing discomfort on every single walk. Getting the measurements right before you buy makes a bigger difference than most people expect. How to measure your puppy for a harness: Measure the chest girth at its widest point, usually just behind the front legs. Measure the neck circumference at the natural base, where the harness will actually sit rather than where a collar would. Note your puppy’s current weight, as many harnesses use weight ranges alongside body measurements. Check both figures against the brand’s specific size guide rather than relying on the general size label. If your puppy falls between sizes, size down and check the fit on arrival. The larger size rarely “works itself out.” The two-finger rule: Once the harness is on, you should be able to slide two fingers snugly under every strap. Secure enough to stay put, with just enough give that nothing pinches. Common fit mistakes to avoid: Buying a size up to “grow into” — a loose harness is an escape risk and can cause rubbing long before they fill it Straps sitting across the shoulder blades, which limits your puppy’s natural stride The harness creeping forward toward the neck when your puppy pulls The chest plate pressing into the armpits rather than lying flat against the sternum Puppies grow fast, so recheck the fit every few weeks and adjust straps as needed. If you’re still in the early stages of getting everything ready, our guide to bringing a new puppy home covers everything else worth thinking about before that first walk together. Which harness works best for pullers, small breeds, and calm little walkers? Not every puppy needs the same harness, and what type of harness is best for a puppy really comes down to two things: how they behave on a walk and how big they are. Puppy Type Best Harness Style Key Reason Puppies that pull hard Front-clip no-pull harness Redirects forward momentum gently without strain on the neck or shoulders Small or toy breeds Lightweight step-in or mesh harness Sits comfortably on a tiny frame without adding bulk or restricting movement Calm, easy walkers Standard back-clip harness Simple, fuss-free design that works well for pups who already walk nicely Once you know which category fits your puppy, the decision gets much easier. A calm spaniel pottering around the park simply doesn’t need the same setup as a boisterous Labrador who treats every walk like a sprint. Matching features to real behaviour means you stop paying for extras that never get used. Quick Tip: If your puppy pulls now but you’re confident training will settle things, a dual-clip harness gives you both options without buying twice. Use the front clip while you work on leash manners, then switch to the back clip once they find their rhythm. How to pick the best puppy harness with confidence Choosing the right harness really does come down to a handful of things you now know well. Before you buy, it helps to run through a quick mental checklist. Start with how your puppy actually walks right now. Are they a puller, a nervous shuffler, or somewhere in between? That tells you a lot about clip position. A front-clip harness works well for puppies who charge ahead, gently steering them back towards you rather than letting momentum build. A back-clip suits calmer walkers who are already getting the hang of loose-lead walking. Then think about your puppy’s patience levels. If they wriggle dramatically the moment something approaches their head, a step-in harness will make your morning routine far less of a battle. From there, it is all about fit. Measure before you buy, check the sizing guide for your specific harness, and aim for that two-finger gap all the way around. A well-fitted harness is one your puppy barely notices, and that is exactly the goal. The best puppy harness is not the most expensive one or the one with the longest list of features. It is the one your puppy wears happily, that you can get on quickly, and that makes every walk feel safe and relaxed for both of you. Browse the Lords & Labradors puppy harness range to find the right match for your pup’s size, breed, and walking stage.

    By Adele Busby

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  • How Long Can Puppies Walk? A Simple Guide
    05.06.26 June 05, 2026 Getting A Puppy Featured

    How Long Can Puppies Walk? A Simple Guide

    Knowing how long puppies can walk is one of those questions that sounds simple until you are actually standing at the front door with an excitable eight-week-old and no idea how far to go. The answer depends on age, breed, size, and how well you learn to read your puppy’s cues along the way. This guide breaks it all down, from a handy age-by-age walking chart to practical tips for building up distance safely as your puppy grows. How long can puppies walk? A simple guide for new puppy parents One of the first things new puppy parents want to know is how long their puppy should be walking each day. It feels like it should have a simple answer. But watch a ten-week-old Labrador tear around the garden and you might assume he could handle anything — when in reality, how long puppies can walk safely has very little to do with how much energy they seem to have. Age matters most, but breed, size, and overall fitness all shape the picture too. A four-month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has very different needs to a four-month-old Golden Retriever, even if both are equally determined to sniff every blade of grass along the way. The most widely used starting point is the five-minutes-per-month rule: five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy, then, would walk for around 15 minutes at a time. It is not a rigid law, but it exists for good reason. Puppies have soft, still-developing growth plates in their bones, and too much repetitive exercise before those plates close can cause real, lasting joint damage. A puppy who seems full of energy is not necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for long walks. This is especially worth keeping in mind in those early weeks, when everything is new and you are still finding your rhythm together. If you are just bringing your puppy home for the first time, walks are only one small part of what lies ahead — and there is absolutely no rush to do too much, too soon. The five-minutes-per-month rule, plus a handy age-based walking guide The five-minutes-per-month rule is one of the most widely shared pieces of puppy advice, and honestly, it’s earned its reputation. It gives you a simple, sensible starting point for figuring out how long puppies can walk at each stage of development. The idea is beautifully straightforward: allow five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy gets around 15 minutes per session; by five months, you’re looking at closer to 25. Puppy Age Max Walk Duration (Per Session) Notes 8 weeks 5 minutes Short sniff-and-explore outings only. Very gentle to start. 3 months 15 minutes Two short walks daily is plenty. Prioritise new sights and smells over distance. 4 months 20 minutes Puppy walking distance starts to increase slowly. Watch for signs of tiring. 5 months 25 minutes Confidence usually grows here. Keep surfaces soft where possible. 6 months 30 minutes Still very much a puppy, whatever their size might suggest. 9 months 45 minutes Larger breeds especially need restraint. Growth plates are still developing. 12 months 45–60 minutes Smaller breeds may be ready for longer walks. Always assess individually. Good to Know: This formula is a guide, not gospel. Breed size plays a big role. Giant breeds like Great Danes may actually need less than the formula suggests, because their growth plates take longer to close. And every puppy is different — some flag earlier than you’d expect, while others seem to have boundless energy regardless. Let your individual pup lead the way. When puppies can go for long walks really depends on breed and development, but most are ready for more substantial exercise somewhere between 12 and 18 months. Worth noting too: conditions like cold weather can cut any walk short, whatever the age. Our guide to walking your dog in cold weather is worth bookmarking before the temperature drops. No formula replaces actually watching your puppy. If they’re lagging behind, flopping down mid-pavement, or suddenly very interested in stopping — that’s your cue to turn for home. Why some puppies need less — or more — walking than others The five-minute rule gives you a brilliant starting point, but every puppy is different. Breed, body shape, and a handful of other factors all influence how long your puppy can safely walk — so it’s worth looking beyond age alone before you lace up your trainers. Breed size and growth rate: Larger breeds like Labradors and Golden Retrievers grow faster and carry more weight through their joints, making them more vulnerable to overexertion than smaller breeds at the same age. Flat-faced breeds: Bulldogs, Pugs, and French Bulldogs overheat and tire more quickly due to restricted airways, so their walks often need to be shorter and slower. Short-legged breeds: Dachshunds and Basset Hounds have a different skeletal structure that puts extra pressure on their spines and limbs, especially on uneven ground. Weather and heat: Puppies struggle to regulate their temperature, so on warmer days it’s worth keeping walks shorter and heading out earlier in the morning before the heat builds. Terrain: Rough, hilly, or slippery surfaces demand far more effort than a flat pavement stroll, even if the distance looks the same on paper. General health: Any illness, recent vaccination, or growth-related condition can change what your puppy can comfortably handle on a given day. One thing that catches a lot of new puppy parents off guard: a puppy who seems full of energy isn’t necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for more. Growth plates — the soft areas of developing bone — remain vulnerable to stress injury well into adolescence, long after your puppy looks completely tireless. Bouncy behaviour isn’t a green light to go further. Getting this balance right early really does pay off. Tailoring walks to your individual puppy’s needs protects their joints through the most critical window of development, and building a thoughtful routine now sets them up for a happy, active adult life. That investment in regular exercise only becomes more rewarding as they grow. How to build up your puppy’s walks without overdoing it Building up walks gradually is one of the kindest things you can do for a growing puppy. It takes a little patience, but the principle is simple: start small, add time slowly, and let your puppy’s body set the pace. Their joints and growth plates are still developing, and pushing too far too soon can cause real, lasting harm. Start short and stay consistent. Begin with just 5 to 10 minutes per outing, even if your puppy looks ready to run a marathon. Increase time gradually. Add a few minutes each week rather than making big jumps. Puppy exercise by age should always feel comfortable and well within their limits. Build in rest breaks. Let your puppy sniff, sit, or simply take a breather. That is not wasted time — it is part of the walk. Mix things up. A short training stop, a good sniff of the hedgerow, or a gentle play moment all count toward mental and physical enrichment. How much exercise a puppy needs goes well beyond steps. Choose soft ground where you can. Grass and earth are much kinder on young joints than pavement, particularly for bigger breeds. Signs your puppy has had enough Lagging behind or pulling toward home Sitting or lying down mid-walk Heavy or laboured panting Limping or favouring a leg Reluctance to move forward How far puppies can walk matters far less than how well they recover afterwards. Quality always beats distance. Long walks will come — you will know your puppy is ready when they bounce home looking like they could do it all again. If you have just welcomed a new puppy and want to get the basics right from the start, our bringing a new puppy home guide is a great place to begin. Off-lead or on-lead: what’s best for puppy walks right now? For young puppies, on-lead walking is almost always the safer choice — and not just for the obvious traffic reasons. Walking on the lead teaches your puppy to move calmly beside you, builds focus, and helps them take in the big, noisy world without getting completely overwhelmed. It also keeps distance in check. A puppy charging after every smell, stranger, or squirrel is covering far more ground than it looks, which can quietly tip into too much exercise for joints that are still developing. That said, off-lead time absolutely has its place. Secure, enclosed spaces where your puppy can sniff freely and potter about at their own pace offer something a structured walk simply can’t — unstructured exploration that’s genuinely tiring in the best way. It’s mentally stimulating, physically gentle, and great for confidence. The catch is recall. A puppy who doesn’t come back reliably yet is better off on a long line than given full freedom in open spaces. Get that foundation solid first, then gradually extend the trust. Whatever setup works for you right now, good gear makes the whole thing easier. A well-fitted harness spreads pressure across the chest rather than the neck, which matters a lot when your puppy is still figuring out how to walk on a lead without bouncing off it. Paired with a quality lead — like the Lords & Labradors Herdwick Dog Lead — even a short walk feels calm and in control. The right kit really does take the friction out of those early walks, for both of you.

    By Adele Busby

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  • What to Do If Puppy Cries in Crate at Night
    03.06.26 June 03, 2026 Getting A Puppy Featured

    What to Do If Puppy Cries in Crate at Night

    Waking up to a puppy crying in their crate at night is one of those experiences that tests even the most prepared new dog parent, but it almost always has a perfectly simple explanation. In this guide, you will find out what to do if puppy cries in crate at night, from quick bedtime checks and calming routines through to knowing when the crying might be worth a closer look. A few nights of broken sleep does not mean you are doing it wrong, and with the right approach, things tend to improve faster than you might expect. Why your puppy cries in the crate at night — and why it’s usually normal If your puppy is crying in their crate at night, the first thing to know is this: you haven’t done anything wrong, and neither has your puppy. Nighttime crying is one of the most common experiences for new puppy parents, and it almost always means your puppy is trying to tell you something — not that they’re being difficult. Think about it from their perspective. Just days ago, they were curled up with their mum and littermates, surrounded by warmth and familiar smells, never once spending a night alone. Now they’re in a new home, a new crate, a new room, with none of those comforts to anchor them. A little protest at bedtime makes complete sense. There are a handful of reasons why puppies cry in the crate at night, and understanding them makes it much easier to respond with confidence rather than panic. The most common ones are: They miss their littermates. Sleeping in a warm, wriggly pile is all they’ve ever known. That kind of closeness doesn’t disappear overnight, and the adjustment takes time. They need the toilet. Young puppies genuinely can’t hold their bladder through the night. A cry at 2am is usually a real signal, not a bid for attention. They’re cold or uncomfortable. A crate that feels too bare or exposed won’t feel like a safe haven — it’ll just feel lonely. They’re overwhelmed. The first week in a new home is a lot for a small dog to process. By the time bedtime rolls around, many puppies are emotionally wrung out and finding it hard to wind down. Once you understand what the crying is actually communicating, you can respond in a way that helps rather than guesses. If you’re still putting the building blocks of your puppy’s sleep setup together, our guide to creating the perfect puppy sleep routine is well worth a read before the lights go out. First things to check before you settle in for the night Before you rethink your whole approach to crate training, it’s worth pausing to check the basics. A surprising number of puppies crying in the crate at night are simply reacting to something small and fixable — things that are easy to miss when you’re exhausted and just want everyone to sleep. Running through this short checklist first can save you a lot of unnecessary stress. Last toilet trip of the night. Take your puppy outside for a toilet break right before they go into the crate, even if they went out an hour ago. A full bladder won’t let them settle, and the discomfort will quickly turn into crying. Crate size. The crate should feel snug and safe, not vast and exposed. Your puppy needs just enough room to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Too much space can actually make them feel less secure, not more. Room temperature. Puppies feel the cold quickly, especially once the house cools down overnight. Make sure the crate is away from draughts, and tuck in a soft, washable blanket for warmth — just avoid anything that could cause overheating. Enough wind-down time before bed. Putting a puppy straight into the crate after a play session is a bit like trying to put a toddler to bed mid-bounce. Aim for 20 to 30 minutes of calm before lights out so their energy has genuinely settled. Is your puppy actually tired? A puppy who hasn’t had enough activity or gentle mental stimulation during the day will find it hard to switch off at night. Short, age-appropriate play sessions in the evening make a real difference. If you’re still in those early days of settling in, the advice on bringing a new puppy home is a great place to start. More often than not, working through this list resolves things before you need to make any bigger changes. It’s always the right place to begin. How to build a bedtime routine that helps your puppy settle Consistency is one of the most powerful tools you have when it comes to puppy crying in the crate at night. Puppies feel safer when they can predict what’s coming next, and a calm, repeatable bedtime sequence tells their brain it’s time to switch off. Do it the same way every night and you’ll likely notice the difference sooner than you’d expect. Final toilet break 45 to 60 minutes before crating. Take your puppy outside for a proper sniff around and a chance to go. A puppy with a full bladder won’t settle, no matter how cosy the crate is. Wind down activity levels. Put the squeaky toys away at least 30 minutes before bed and switch to something calmer — a gentle chew, or a quiet cuddle on the sofa. An overtired but overstimulated puppy is a recipe for a difficult night. Set up the crate with soft, inviting bedding. A plush blanket or well-padded crate mat makes a real difference. If it’s your puppy’s first night, tuck in a worn item of your clothing so your scent is there with them. Some owners also place a ticking clock nearby, which can mimic a mother’s heartbeat. Cover the crate. Draping a breathable cover over three sides creates a den-like feel that genuinely helps puppies settle. It cuts out visual distractions and signals that the crate is for sleeping, not watching the room. One last quick toilet trip right before crating. Even a two-minute garden visit is worth it to reduce the chances of a 2am wake-up. Use a calm, consistent verbal cue. Something simple — “bedtime” or “in your bed” — repeated every night helps your puppy start connecting the word with winding down. Lights out, minimal fuss. Keep your goodnight brief and warm, then leave. Lingering makes it harder for both of you. Quick tip: A crate cover is one of the simplest things you can do when crate training a puppy at night. Reducing what your puppy can see lowers stimulation and makes the space feel genuinely enclosed and safe, much more den than cage. Repeat this every night and you give your puppy something they genuinely need: predictability. Over time, that familiar sequence helps shorten the adjustment period, reduces how long your puppy cries in the crate, and builds quiet confidence in both of you. What to do if your puppy cries after you’ve put them to bed Knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is one of those things nobody quite prepares you for. You’re tired, your heart is a little broken, and you just want everyone to sleep. The good news is that you don’t have to choose between leaving them to it completely and rushing straight in every time. A calm, considered response is almost always the right middle ground. There are two situations genuinely worth getting up for. The first is a toilet trip — especially in the early weeks, when young puppies simply can’t hold their bladder through the night. If your puppy is under 12 weeks, or hasn’t been out recently, a quiet trip outside makes sense. The second is brief reassurance for a puppy still adjusting to sleeping alone. A soft word through the crate, or just a moment nearby, can help settle them without building a bigger habit around it. The mistake worth avoiding: going to them every single time they cry. Puppies are quick learners. If calling out reliably brings you back into the room, they’ll keep doing it — not out of stubbornness, but because it works. Even well-meaning responses can accidentally teach them that crying is the way to get your attention. You end up reinforcing the very thing you’re trying to stop. When your puppy cries, try these calm responses instead: Wait a minute or two before going in, to see if they settle on their own If you do go to them, keep your voice low and calm with no excitement or fuss Any toilet trips should be short, boring, and dimly lit Avoid eye contact, play, or picking them up unless it’s truly necessary Return them to the crate straightaway and leave without lingering Most puppies start to find their rhythm within a few nights once they learn that bedtime is quiet, consistent, and uneventful. The calmer and more predictable you can be, the sooner they’ll get there. And if you want to set the foundations before that first night even arrives, these tips for bringing a new puppy home are a brilliant place to start. When crying points to something more than a rough first night Most puppies cry in the crate at night simply because everything feels new and a little overwhelming. That’s completely normal. But part of knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is recognising when something beyond first-night nerves might be going on. These are the signs worth paying closer attention to: Crying that gets louder or more frantic after 30 to 60 minutes, rather than gradually fading Repeated accidents in the crate despite a toilet break right before bed Frantic pacing, spinning, or determined attempts to scratch or chew their way out Refusing food, water, or treats anywhere near the crate A sudden return to distressed crying in a puppy who had previously been settling well Normal whining vs. genuine distress: what’s the difference? Normal whining tends to be intermittent, softens over several nights, and doesn’t come with any physical symptoms. Genuine distress looks different. The crying escalates instead of easing, shows little improvement after a week, and may come alongside panting, drooling, or repetitive self-soothing behaviours like circling or excessive licking. If your puppy is showing physical symptoms alongside the crying — vomiting, diarrhoea, lethargy, or anything that suggests pain or illness — contact your vet. Don’t wait to see if it passes. If the crate itself seems to be the source of real fear rather than just mild protest, a qualified trainer or behaviourist can help you work through it in a way that feels manageable. It’s also worth thinking about timing. Introducing the crate too young or too abruptly can make the whole process harder than it needs to be. If you’re unsure whether your puppy is ready, our guide on how old you should be before crate training a puppy is a helpful starting point. Catching these signs early makes a real difference — for your puppy, and for your sleep. A calmer night starts with consistency, comfort, and a bit of patience Crate training takes time, and the first few nights are almost always the hardest. But stick with a consistent bedtime routine, respond calmly when your puppy cries, and make their space feel genuinely cosy — and things really do get easier. Most puppies settle into a rhythm faster than their bleary-eyed owners expect. The small things matter more than you might think. A right-sized crate, placed somewhere warm and familiar, with soft bedding your puppy actually wants to curl into, sets the tone for the whole night. Something like the Cosy Calming Puppy Crate Bed can genuinely help here — giving your puppy a snug, den-like space to settle into rather than somewhere bare and unfamiliar. Your response matters just as much as the setup. Keeping bedtime predictable, staying consistent, and not rushing in at every whimper all help your puppy learn that the crate is safe and that you are close by. It takes repetition, but it builds real confidence over time. If you have been lying awake wondering what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night, here is the honest answer: check the basics, build a routine, and give it time. Progress is rarely dramatic, but it is steady. One night you will realise the crying has stopped, the whimpering has faded, and everyone in the house is finally getting some sleep. Those mornings feel very well earned.

    By Adele Busby

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