A dog collar is an important item for any dog as it can be used as a form of identification if they go missing and makes the process of attaching a lead for walkies a quick, simple and comfortable experience. However, if a dog collar isn’t properly fitted, it could potentially cause pain to your dog or allow them to escape.
In this blog, we explain how tight a dog collar should be, offer tips on fitting a collar correctly and look into how to measure your dog’s neck to find the right size.
How Tight Should A Dog Collar Be?
When you put a collar on your dog, you will need to ensure that the size is right to avoid causing a feeling of discomfort or even potentially putting your furry friend in danger. Finding the correct fit is a balance between making sure it isn’t too loose, meaning it could fall off, or too tight, potentially causing it to hurt their neck.
Whether you’re currently choosing a collar for your dog and need to find the correct size or already have a collar and need to make sure it’s correctly fitted, it’s important that it’s as it should be to avoid harm. Below, we offer tips on getting the size of your dog’s collar right:
How To Fit A Collar On A Dog
Even if the collar doesn’t look particularly tight or loose around your dog’s neck, it doesn’t mean that it's correctly fitted. It can be difficult to know how best to gauge the most suitable size on your dog’s neck. However, a tried and tested way that is effective in identifying the correct fit is by using what’s known as the ‘two finger rule’.
To do this, simply put the collar on your dog and place two fingers between the surface of the collar and your dog's neck. If your fingers can fit comfortably while still feeling a little restricted, this should be an indication that the collar is a suitable length. If, however, your fingers have a lot of room to move or feel stuck in the collar, you should adjust the length accordingly.
How To Shorten A Dog Collar
Dog collars often use a tri-glide buckle, allowing the owner to easily shorten or lengthen the collar. To shorten the length of the collar, move the end of the collar away from the buckle, tightening and making it shorter.
How to Extend A Dog Collar
Likewise, extending a dog collar that uses a tri-glide buckle requires the opposite action. Instead of moving the end of the collar away from the buckle to tighten it, push the end of the collar towards the buckle, pass it through the buckle itself and pull both ends to make the collar longer.
How To Measure Collar Size For A Dog
If you haven’t yet chosen a collar for your dog and are in the process of deciding the most suitable option, you will want to check that you’ve picked the right size. To help with measuring your dog for a collar, we’ve provided helpful tips on carrying out this process:
Get your dog to sit in front of you, ideally facing the opposite direction.
Place measuring tape around the base of your dog’s neck where their collar would be likely to sit.
Place two fingers between the measuring tape and their neck, making the measurement around one to two inches looser.
Record this measurement using a pencil and paper and mark it down as their neck measurement.
Using the neck measurement you’ve recorded, determine the collar size based on the collars size guide - each brand is sized differently so check the individual products size guide to find the best fit.
Lords & Labradors Essentials Walking Accessories
Our L&L Essentials Walking Collection collars come in seven sizes so you're sure to find the perfect fit, we've put our size guide below to help you find the right collar for your dog:
Collar Size
Neck Size
Recommended For
XXS
23-27 cm
Chihuahua, Yorkshire Terrier
XS
28-32 cm
Jack Russell, Norfolk Terrier
S
30-36 cm
Cockapoo, Standard Dachshund, Spaniel
M
35-41 cm
Bulldog, Schnauzer, English Bull Terrier
L
39-47 cm
Labrador. Red Setter, Labradoodle
XL
44-52 cm
Retriever, Great Dane, Doberman
XXL
49-57 cm
Bullmastiff, Dogue De Bordeaux, Newfoundland
Still not sure on the right size collar for your dog? Why not chat with one of our pet experts? They are available on +44 1790 720 900, sales@lordsandlabradors.co.uk or our live chat on our website - they're always happy to help!
A dog collar is an important item for any dog as it can be used as a form of identification if they go missing and makes the process of attaching a lead for walkies a quick, simple and comfortable experience. However, if a dog collar isn’t properly fitted, it could potentially cause pain to your dog or allow them to escape.
In this blog, we explain how tight a dog collar should be, offer tips on fitting a collar correctly and look into how to measure your dog’s neck to find the right size.
How Tight Should A Dog Collar Be?
When you put a collar on your dog, you will need to ensure that the size is right to avoid causing a feeling of discomfort or even potentially putting your furry friend in danger. Finding the correct fit is a balance between making sure it isn’t too loose, meaning it could fall off, or too tight, potentially causing it to hurt their neck.
Whether you’re currently choosing a collar for your dog and need to find the correct size or already have a collar and need to make sure it’s correctly fitted, it’s important that it’s as it should be to avoid harm. Below, we offer tips on getting the size of your dog’s collar right:
How To Fit A Collar On A Dog
Even if the collar doesn’t look particularly tight or loose around your dog’s neck, it doesn’t mean that it's correctly fitted. It can be difficult to know how best to gauge the most suitable size on your dog’s neck. However, a tried and tested way that is effective in identifying the correct fit is by using what’s known as the ‘two finger rule’.
To do this, simply put the collar on your dog and place two fingers between the surface of the collar and your dog's neck. If your fingers can fit comfortably while still feeling a little restricted, this should be an indication that the collar is a suitable length. If, however, your fingers have a lot of room to move or feel stuck in the collar, you should adjust the length accordingly.
How To Shorten A Dog Collar
Dog collars often use a tri-glide buckle, allowing the owner to easily shorten or lengthen the collar. To shorten the length of the collar, move the end of the collar away from the buckle, tightening and making it shorter.
How to Extend A Dog Collar
Likewise, extending a dog collar that uses a tri-glide buckle requires the opposite action. Instead of moving the end of the collar away from the buckle to tighten it, push the end of the collar towards the buckle, pass it through the buckle itself and pull both ends to make the collar longer.
How To Measure Collar Size For A Dog
If you haven’t yet chosen a collar for your dog and are in the process of deciding the most suitable option, you will want to check that you’ve picked the right size. To help with measuring your dog for a collar, we’ve provided helpful tips on carrying out this process:
Get your dog to sit in front of you, ideally facing the opposite direction.
Place measuring tape around the base of your dog’s neck where their collar would be likely to sit.
Place two fingers between the measuring tape and their neck, making the measurement around one to two inches looser.
Record this measurement using a pencil and paper and mark it down as their neck measurement.
Using the neck measurement you’ve recorded, determine the collar size based on the collars size guide - each brand is sized differently so check the individual products size guide to find the best fit.
Lords & Labradors Essentials Walking Accessories
Our L&L Essentials Walking Collection collars come in seven sizes so you're sure to find the perfect fit, we've put our size guide below to help you find the right collar for your dog:
Collar Size
Neck Size
Recommended For
XXS
23-27 cm
Chihuahua, Yorkshire Terrier
XS
28-32 cm
Jack Russell, Norfolk Terrier
S
30-36 cm
Cockapoo, Standard Dachshund, Spaniel
M
35-41 cm
Bulldog, Schnauzer, English Bull Terrier
L
39-47 cm
Labrador. Red Setter, Labradoodle
XL
44-52 cm
Retriever, Great Dane, Doberman
XXL
49-57 cm
Bullmastiff, Dogue De Bordeaux, Newfoundland
Still not sure on the right size collar for your dog? Why not chat with one of our pet experts? They are available on +44 1790 720 900, sales@lordsandlabradors.co.uk or our live chat on our website - they're always happy to help!
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Have you ever found yourself relaxing on the sofa with your furry companion curled up beside you, softly vibrating with that unmistakable cat purring sound? Whether it's a gentle hum while they snooze or a loud, contented rumble when they're being stroked, cats and purring go hand in hand. But have you ever wondered—why do cats purr? Let’s dive into the world of feline communication to uncover the mystery behind this soothing sound.
The Science Behind the Purr Sound
A purr sound is produced by a cat’s laryngeal muscles, which twitch at a rapid rate—around 25 to 150 vibrations per second. This movement causes a separation of the vocal cords, producing the familiar rhythmic hum we all adore. Interestingly, the sound is created both when a cat inhales and exhales, making it a continuous, comforting presence.
Why Do Cats Purr? The Many Meanings of This Feline Sound
Cats purr for a variety of reasons, and while it’s commonly associated with contentment, the truth is that it serves multiple purposes. Let’s explore some of the key reasons:
1. Contentment and Relaxation
The most well-known reason for cat purring in sleep or during petting sessions is sheer happiness. When a cat is comfortable, feeling safe, and loved, purring serves as a signal of satisfaction. If your feline friend is snuggled up in their favourite spot, enjoying some downtime, their purring is likely a sign of total relaxation.
2. Communication with Their Humans
Cats use their purrs to communicate with us. Have you ever noticed that your cat’s purr sounds slightly different when they’re hungry? Studies suggest that some cats produce a more urgent purr, sometimes mixed with a soft meow, to grab your attention when it’s mealtime.
3. Self-Soothing and Healing
One fascinating aspect of cats and purring is its potential health benefits. Purring has been linked to self-soothing, helping cats calm themselves in stressful situations. What’s more, the frequency of a cat’s purr is believed to have healing properties, aiding in bone growth and tissue repair. This explains why cats might purr when they are injured or feeling unwell.
4. Bonding with Kittens
If you’ve ever heard kitten purring, you’ll know that it’s one of the sweetest sounds. From the moment they are born, kittens purr to bond with their mothers. This purring reassures their mother that they are safe and content, while also helping them stay close during nursing.
5. Stress and Anxiety Relief
Surprisingly, cats might purr when they are stressed or anxious. If your cat is in an unfamiliar environment or feeling uneasy, purring can act as a coping mechanism, helping to reduce their stress levels.
6. Seeking Attention
If your cat starts purring the moment you walk through the door, they’re likely seeking your attention. Whether they want food, playtime, or simply some affection, purring is a feline’s way of saying, "Notice me!"
Kitten Purring Meaning: What to Expect from Your Young Cat
If you’re the proud owner of a young feline, you might be curious about kitten purring meaning. Kittens begin purring at just a few days old, often as a way to bond with their mother. As they grow, their purring may develop into a way to express contentment, seek comfort, or even indicate when they’re feeling playful.
Kittens often purr when being stroked, feeling full after a meal, or settling down for a nap. It’s their way of showing they feel safe and secure in their environment.
Why Does My Cat Purr in Their Sleep?
You might have noticed your feline producing a cat purring sound while they’re fast asleep. This typically indicates deep relaxation and a feeling of security. However, just like humans talk in their sleep, cats may purr due to dreams or subconscious processing of their day’s experiences.
If your cat purrs loudly while sleeping, it’s likely they’re in a particularly deep and peaceful state. Some experts also believe that purring during sleep might help with muscle relaxation and recovery.
How to Encourage a Happy Purring Cat
If you love the sound of your cat’s purr, there are a few ways to encourage it:
Create a safe environment: Provide cosy spots, such as a plush cat bed or a cat tree, where your feline can feel secure.
Offer gentle affection: Many cats enjoy head rubs, chin scratches, and soft petting, which can trigger contented purring.
Provide tasty treats: A happy cat is often a purring cat, and rewarding them with delicious treats can encourage more of those lovely vibrations.
Interactive play: Engaging your cat with toys and games helps build their confidence and deepen your bond.
Conclusion
Cats and purring go together like peanut butter and jelly. While purring is often a sign of happiness, it can also serve a variety of other purposes, from communication to self-soothing and healing. Whether you’re listening to the gentle hum of kitten purring or the steady rhythm of your senior cat’s purr, understanding their sounds helps you build a stronger bond with your furry companion.
If you want to create the perfect environment for your cat to relax and purr away, be sure to check out Lords & Labradors' range of luxurious cat essentials, including plush beds, cat trees, and tasty treats.
So, next time your feline friend starts their soothing hum, you’ll know they’re communicating with you in the most delightful way!
Rabies is one of those things most pet parents hope they will never need to think about, but knowing the early signs of rabies in dogs could genuinely make the difference when it matters most. In this article, we cover how the illness typically begins, how it progresses, what to do if you think your dog has been exposed, and why vaccination is still the most important thing you can do. Consider this your calm, clear starting point.
What the early signs of rabies in dogs can look like
One of the hardest things about spotting the early signs of rabies in dogs is that they can look like almost anything else. A dog who seems a little off, slightly more anxious than usual, or oddly clingy after a long day outside is easy to explain away. That is exactly what makes this stage so important to understand.
In the very earliest phase, pet parents tend to notice subtle shifts in personality rather than obvious physical symptoms. Your dog might seem unusually restless, hide away when they would normally seek you out, or snap at something that would not normally bother them. Some dogs become more vocal. Others go quiet. A usually confident dog might suddenly seem nervous or jumpy, while a sociable one may want to be left alone.
These shifts happen because the virus begins affecting the brain and nervous system before any dramatic symptoms appear. Knowing your dog’s baseline really does matter here. If you feel like you could brush up on the signals your dog sends day to day, this guide to reading your dog’s body language is a genuinely useful place to start.
It is also worth being clear: none of these early signs point exclusively to rabies. Anxiety, irritability, and hiding can all signal pain, illness, stress, or a whole range of other conditions. Behavioural changes alone are not a diagnosis.
That said, if your dog has had any possible contact with a wild animal, or you are noticing changes you simply cannot account for, do not sit on it. Call your vet straight away. With rabies, early action is not just helpful. It is everything.
How rabies spreads and why timing matters
Rabies spreads when infected saliva enters the body, most often through a bite wound from an infected animal. Contact with wildlife, stray dogs, or any unfamiliar animal carries real risk, and even a small puncture wound can be enough for the virus to take hold.
Key transmission and timing facts:
The primary route of infection is a bite from a rabid animal, where saliva enters broken skin directly
Less commonly, rabies can spread if infected saliva contacts open cuts or mucous membranes
The incubation period varies widely, typically 3 to 8 weeks, though it can range from just a few days to over a year
Throughout that entire window, a dog may look and behave completely normally while the virus travels silently along nerve pathways toward the brain
Why timing matters
By the time rabies symptoms in dogs become visible, the disease is almost always fatal. There is no effective treatment once clinical signs appear. Early intervention after any suspicious exposure is the only real option, which is why acting quickly is so important.
If your dog has recently been in a fight, taken a bite from an unknown animal, or had any contact with wildlife, please do not take a wait-and-see approach. It is worth knowing that even everyday behaviours like licking or mouthing can become relevant in exposure situations, since saliva contact with broken skin or mucous membranes does carry some risk. When in doubt, call your vet and let them help you decide what to do next.
With transmission and timing covered, it is time to look at what the early signs of rabies in dogs actually look like in practice.
How the illness can progress from behavior changes to neurological signs
Rabies rarely starts with the dramatic signs people expect. More often, it begins with a dog who just doesn’t seem quite like themselves. You might notice they seem unusually quiet, restless, clingy, or on edge, and those early signs of rabies in dogs can be easy to brush off after a long day, a bad night’s sleep, or even an upset tummy.
What makes rabies so worrying is how quickly that “something feels off” stage can shift into obvious neurological problems. A dog who is normally steady and predictable may start reacting strangely to touch, sound, or movement. If your dog usually gets vocal or excitable outdoors, there can be plenty of harmless explanations for that, especially when out walking. But a sudden, unexplained change in temperament in a dog you know well is different, and it deserves urgent attention.
As the illness progresses, movement and awareness can change too. Some dogs become disoriented, seem unsure in familiar spaces, or struggle to walk normally. Swallowing may become difficult, which can lead to jaw weakness and the heavy drooling many people associate with rabies symptoms in dogs. In more advanced stages, seizures, collapse, or severe distress can follow.
That is why this is never something to “keep an eye on” at home once symptoms begin. Rabies can move from subtle behaviour changes to serious neurological signs very quickly, and by that point it is a medical emergency for both your dog and the people around them. If your dog is showing these kinds of changes after any possible exposure, contact your vet or local public health team straight away.
What to do if you think your dog may have been exposed
If you suspect your dog has been exposed to rabies, don’t wait to see what develops. Suspected contact with a potentially rabid animal is an emergency, and the early signs of rabies in dogs can appear before you even realise exposure has happened.
Isolate your dog straight away. Keep them away from other pets, children, and adults until you’ve spoken to a professional. Even if your dog seems completely fine, this step matters right now.
Call your vet or an emergency animal clinic. Explain exactly what happened: when, where, and what animal was involved. They’ll guide your next steps based on your dog’s vaccination history and your location.
Report the incident to your local public health authority. Rabies is a notifiable disease in many regions, and local authorities can advise on any legal requirements or quarantine protocols that apply to you.
Don’t wait for symptoms before acting. Early rabies symptoms in dogs can be subtle and easy to miss. Prompt reporting protects everyone, including your dog.
Follow the guidance you’re given carefully. Next steps often depend on vaccination status and regional regulations, so don’t assume that advice meant for someone else applies to your situation.
Worth knowing: Even vaccinated dogs need urgent veterinary assessment after a suspected exposure. Vaccination significantly reduces risk, but it doesn’t replace professional evaluation.
You don’t need to panic, but you do need to act quickly. Staying calm and decisive is genuinely the most helpful thing you can do for your dog in that moment. And being a prepared pet parent day to day makes all the difference, so make sure you have everything for your dog sorted long before a situation like this arises.
Vaccination and prevention are what protect your dog best
Keeping your dog’s rabies vaccination current is the single most effective thing you can do — and that’s true even if your dog lives a mostly quiet, indoor family life. Rabies doesn’t only find dogs who roam freely. A bat finding its way into the house, a brief garden encounter with a hedgehog, or an off-lead moment in the park are all real scenarios where exposure could happen without any warning.
Practically speaking, sensible prevention doesn’t have to be complicated. Stay on top of booster schedules and put the due date somewhere you’ll genuinely notice it — the fridge, your phone calendar, wherever works for you. If your dog has been to a boarding kennel, a dog show, or travelled abroad, it’s worth checking whether any updated vaccination requirements apply on your return. And where you can, try to reduce unsupervised contact with wildlife, particularly at dawn and dusk when animals like foxes are most active.
Cornell University’s Riney Canine Health Center notes that the most common signs of rabies are behavioral changes and paralysis. It’s a sobering reminder that by the time any warning signs appear, options are already limited. Prevention really is the whole story here.
Good general habits — including regular exercise and routine care — absolutely contribute to a healthier, happier dog. But when it comes to rabies specifically, nothing replaces being vaccinated and staying up to date.
This article is here to help you feel informed, not worried. If you have any concerns about your dog’s behaviour or a possible exposure, please talk to your vet directly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long can a dog carry rabies before showing symptoms?
A dog can carry rabies for quite a while before showing symptoms, most often around 3 to 8 weeks, though it can be as short as a few days or stretch to over a year. During that time, they may look and act completely normal, which is why quick action after any exposure matters.
Can a dog have rabies without you knowing?
Yes, a dog can have rabies without you knowing at first. In the incubation period, they may seem completely normal, and even the earliest changes can look like everyday stress or illness, such as restlessness, hiding, clinginess, or unusual irritability. Any possible exposure should be treated as urgent.
Summer with a dog means making a hundred small decisions about how to keep them comfortable, and knowing where to start with the best cooling products for dogs is genuinely half the job done. This guide covers everything from cooling mats and breathable beds to wearable options for walks, frozen treats that double as enrichment, and simple tips for reading your dog’s signals in the heat. Think of it as a practical summer toolkit built around how your dog actually lives, not just a list of things that exist.
Best cooling products for dogs: what actually helps on hot days
When summer arrives, keeping your dog comfortable becomes something you think about constantly. The paddling pool comes out, walks shift to early mornings, and you find yourself eyeing up every cooling product on the market. With so many options out there, though, it can be genuinely hard to know what will actually help your dog.
This roundup covers the best cooling products for dogs across every situation: lazy days at home, warm-weather walks, post-exercise wind-downs, and everything in between. Whether your dog is a sprawler who claims the entire living room floor, a velcro dog who insists on being by your side no matter the temperature, or a food-motivated soul who’d do anything for a frozen treat, there’s something here that fits.
When pulling this together, a few things kept coming back as what really matters: how comfortable your dog will actually find a product, how easy it is to use day to day, whether it travels well, and crucially, whether it suits how your dog naturally moves and rests. A dog cooling vest is brilliant for some dogs and completely ignored by others. A cooling mat can be a genuine game-changer or something to sniff once and walk away from.
Knowing your dog is genuinely half the battle here. A whippet who drapes herself across cool tiles needs something different from a retriever who runs hot and still wants to be outside at noon.
If you’re also thinking about where your dog sleeps day to day, our guide on how to pick a dog bed is a great place to start.
Cooling mats, beds and chill-out spots for dogs who love to sprawl
For dogs who belly-flop onto the floor the second they’re back from a walk, a cooler place to rest can make summer much more comfortable. When you’re choosing the best cooling products for dogs, start with where they naturally settle. If your dog naps in the kitchen, by the back door, or in a shady garden corner, that’s where a cooling setup will actually earn its keep.
Gel-filled cooling mat: A classic cooling mat for dogs because it’s easy, pressure-activated, and ready whenever your dog needs it. Best for: quick post-walk cool-downs on warm indoor floors.
Elevated mesh bed: Lifting your dog off patios, decking, or stuffy floors helps air circulate underneath them. Best for: garden lounging or warmer rooms upstairs.
Breathable dog cooling bed: A cushioned option suits dogs who don’t love the firmer feel of a mat. Look for breathable fill and washable covers for everyday summer use. Best for: longer naps and overnight sleeping.
Dog crate with cosy calming bed: If your dog likes a den-like space, this Lords & Labradors crate-and-bed setup can work well as a calm rest spot in a cooler part of the house. It’s less about active cooling and more about giving your dog somewhere settled and shaded to switch off after time outside. Best for: dogs who relax better in their own quiet corner.
Waterproof cooling mat with non-slip base: Handy for outdoor use because it stays put better on smooth surfaces. Best for: shaded patio or decking time.
A few simple summer dog cooling tips make these products work better. Keep beds and mats out of direct sun, offer them in the spots your dog already chooses, and pair them with fresh water nearby. Even the best dog cooling products won’t help much if they’re placed in a baking conservatory or a patch of afternoon sun.
Cooling coats, vests and bandanas for walks in warm weather
For dogs who still want their walk no matter the weather, wearable cooling gear can make a real difference. Whether it’s a determined Labrador pulling towards the park or a Frenchie who absolutely insists on their morning route, the right kit helps them stay comfortable without cutting things short. These products work hardest during heatwaves, midday outings, or any time your dog is already panting before you’ve reached the end of the street.
Product Type
Best For
How It Works
Key Benefit
Cooling coat
Active, larger breeds on longer walks
Soaked in water, cools through evaporation
Covers a larger surface area for sustained cooling
Cooling vest
Brachycephalic breeds like Bulldogs and Pugs
Lightweight fit around the chest and torso
Less restrictive, easier breathing for flat-faced dogs
Cooling bandana
Dogs that overheat quickly or dislike full body coverage
Wet fabric around the neck cools blood vessels
Simple, low-fuss option for mild heat or shorter outings
A few tips to get the most out of wearable cooling products:
Pre-soak coats and bandanas in cold water before you leave the house
Avoid peak sun hours where you can, typically 11am to 3pm in summer
Check the fit as you go — wet fabric can shift and rub more than you’d expect
Top up with water on longer walks if panting starts to pick up
Wearable coolers work best as part of a wider summer routine rather than a standalone solution. If you’re building out your dog’s warm weather kit, browse dog coats and cooling wear at Lords & Labradors to find something that suits your dog’s size and shape.
Frozen treats, lick mats and water-first products that help dogs cool from the inside out
Some of the easiest summer wins are the ones you can prep in a few minutes and use every day. Frozen treats, lick mats, and water-first feeders can help your dog enjoy small amounts of moisture or chilled food gradually, while also giving them something soothing to focus on when it is too warm for much activity. If you are putting together the best cooling products for dogs, these simple options deserve a place in the mix.
Freeze-filled Kongs: Stuff with wet food, mashed banana, or a dog-safe peanut butter and pop in the freezer for a longer-lasting chew.
Lick mats with yogurt or bone broth: Spread a thin layer and freeze for a calming activity that slows licking and keeps busy minds occupied.
Dog-safe ice cube treats: Freeze diluted low-salt broth or fruit puree in small moulds for easy, mess-light snacks.
Frozen enrichment feeders: Fill puzzle toys and freeze them to add a bit of mental stimulation during the hottest part of the day.
Hydration toppers: A spoonful of water-rich topper or a splash of low-sodium broth over dinner can tempt fussy dogs to take in a little more fluid.
Chilled fruit pieces: Watermelon, cucumber, and blueberries are easy favourites for many dogs.
Good to know: Frozen treats are best thought of as a gentle way to offer cooling foods and extra moisture little by little, rather than a replacement for fresh drinking water.
What we love about these ideas is how practical they are. They cool, distract, and settle your dog at the same time, which is a lifesaver on sticky afternoons. If you want more enrichment ideas, take a look at the dog toys at Lords & Labradors for freezer-friendly options that work well through summer.
How to time walks, spot overheating and choose the right cooling product
Getting the timing right makes just as much difference as anything you put in your basket. In August, aim to walk before 8am or after 7pm, once the pavement has had a chance to cool down. Not sure if it’s safe? Press the back of your hand to the ground for seven seconds. If it’s uncomfortable for you, it’s too hot for your dog’s paws.
Know the signs that mean it’s time to stop. Heavy, rapid panting, excessive drooling, stumbling, glazed eyes, or a sudden reluctance to keep moving are all red flags. Spot more than one together and act quickly: get them into shade, offer small sips of water, and apply cool (not icy) water to their paws, belly and neck. If they don’t come round within a few minutes, call your vet.
Choosing the right cooling product doesn’t have to be complicated. Think about where and how your dog struggles most with the heat. A dog who sprawls out between walks will get the most from a cooling mat or dog cooling bed, especially older dogs or those with joint issues who already love a good lie-down. For dogs who overheat on the move, a dog cooling vest or bandana offers real relief while they’re actually out and about. Smaller dogs and puppies usually do better with lighter wearables and regular water breaks rather than bulkier gear.
Coat type is worth factoring in too. Thick or double-coated breeds trap heat more readily, so combining a cooling vest with a frozen treat after the walk is a genuinely effective pairing. Short-coated dogs regulate a little more easily, but they still need consistent access to shade and fresh water throughout the day.
If you’re unsure about sizing for any wearable, our dog drying coat size guide uses the same measurements and is a straightforward place to start.
The best cooling products for dogs are simply the ones that fit how your dog actually lives. A little observation goes a long way.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best thing to cool a dog?
The best thing depends on when your dog struggles most. For resting at home, a cooling mat, elevated bed or breathable cooling bed usually helps most; for walks, a soaked cooling vest or bandana works better. Fresh water, shade and cooler walk times make every option more effective.
What is the best cooling food for dogs?
The best cooling foods for dogs are simple frozen, water-rich treats that add moisture little by little. Good options include freeze-filled Kongs, frozen lick mats with yogurt or bone broth, dog-safe ice treats, and chilled watermelon, cucumber or blueberries alongside plenty of fresh drinking water.
How do I cool my dog off without AC?
You can cool a dog without AC by moving them into shade, offering small sips of water, and using cool resting spots like a cooling mat, elevated bed or breathable bed in the part of the house they already choose. Frozen treats, wet bandanas and avoiding hot walk times help too.
Getting the right fit for your dog’s crate makes a bigger difference than most people realise, and knowing how to choose the right size dog crate is simpler than it looks once you have a few key numbers to hand. This guide walks you through measuring your dog properly, planning ahead for a growing puppy, and thinking about how the crate will fit into your everyday life. You’ll also find advice on the extras that help a crate feel like a proper den rather than just a box your dog happens to sleep in.
How to choose the right size dog crate without second-guessing yourself
Choosing the right crate size comes down to one simple idea: your dog needs enough room to stand up, turn around, and stretch out comfortably — but not so much space that it stops feeling like a cosy den and starts feeling like a draughty hallway.
That balance matters more than most people expect. A crate that’s too large can leave a dog feeling unsettled, particularly during those early weeks of getting used to it. Dogs are naturally drawn to snug, enclosed spaces, and a well-fitted crate tends to feel far more reassuring than one with room to spare.
The most common mistake? Sizing by breed name alone. A “Labrador-sized” crate sounds like it should cover it, but two Labs can look completely different in build. A lean working type and a stockier show dog might need very different dimensions. So before you start comparing products, get your dog’s actual measurements: length from nose to tail, and height from the floor to the top of their head when standing. Those two numbers will do most of the work for you.
The other key decision is whether you’re buying for a puppy or a fully grown dog. Puppies grow quickly — sometimes faster than you’d think — so crate sizing for a puppy involves a little more forward planning than sizing for an adult.
Get clear on those two things first: your dog’s measurements and their life stage. Once you have both, the rest of the decision becomes much more straightforward. Our dog crate sets are a great place to start browsing once you’ve got your numbers to hand.
Start with your dog’s measurements, not the breed label
Breed labels are a helpful starting point, but they’re not reliable enough to base a purchase on. A Cocker Spaniel can come in wildly different shapes and sizes depending on their lineage and build, and the same goes for almost every breed. Getting your dog’s actual measurements is the only way to feel genuinely confident about how to choose the right size dog crate.
Here’s how to do it properly:
Body length: Measure from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail (not the tip). This gives you the minimum internal length the crate needs to be.
Standing height: Measure from the floor to the top of the head or ears while your dog stands naturally. This tells you how tall the crate needs to be.
Natural posture: Notice whether your dog stands tall and upright or carries themselves low and compact. Two dogs with identical measurements can still need slightly different headroom depending on how they naturally hold themselves.
A note on weight: Useful as a rough guide, but never the whole story. Two 30kg Labradors can easily need different crate sizes based on build and bone structure alone.
Once you have your dog’s measurements, add around 10cm to both figures. Your dog should be able to stand up, turn around, and stretch out comfortably without brushing the sides. That’s the sweet spot. If you’re still finding your feet with crates generally, our introduction to dog crates is a great place to start before you buy.
Getting the fit right for a puppy who’s still growing
Figuring out what size crate to buy for a puppy is one of the trickier parts of those early weeks. You want something that fits them now without being so roomy it sets back toilet training, but you also don’t want to find yourself buying a second crate six months down the line. The good news is you don’t have to.
A crate with a divider panel is the most practical solution for a growing pup. Start with the panel positioned to give your puppy just enough room to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, then gradually move it back as they grow. The space stays snug and den-like throughout, without you having to start from scratch.
A few things worth keeping in mind as you work out the right crate sizing for your dog:
Base your crate choice on your breed’s expected adult measurements, then work backwards
Measure your puppy every two to three weeks, particularly during fast growth phases
Adjust the divider when they start looking cramped or can no longer stretch out fully
Resist jumping up a size too soon — a crate that feels vast rarely feels safe to a young dog
If your pup is a mix, ask your vet for a realistic adult size estimate rather than guessing
Those in-between months go quickly, and a bit of forward planning makes the whole thing far less stressful. Pairing a well-sized crate with a grow-with-me puppy bed means the sleeping space keeps pace with your pup too, so nothing ever feels too big or too sparse along the way.
Choose the crate size for how you’ll actually use it day to day
Knowing how to choose the right size dog crate isn’t just about measuring your dog from nose to tail. Where the crate will live and what you’ll actually use it for each day shapes the decision just as much as the numbers do.
Overnight sleeping. For nighttime use, a snug, den-like fit works best. A crate that’s too roomy can feel unsettling rather than secure, especially for dogs who take a while to wind down.
Toilet training a puppy. Keep it cosy. Too much space and a puppy may decide one end is the bathroom. Crate sizing for dogs in training works best when there’s just enough room to stand, turn, and lie down comfortably.
Quiet time or a safe retreat. If the crate doubles as your dog’s go-to calm spot throughout the day, a little extra room to stretch out is a genuinely kind choice.
Car travel. Consider boot space and how often the crate needs moving. A lightweight, collapsible option will usually serve you better than a heavier everyday crate.
A permanent spot in a shared living space. Here, aesthetics matter alongside fit. You want something that looks as good in your home as it feels for your dog.
Think through your typical week before you decide. Browse the Lords & Labradors crate collection to find options designed around how real dogs and families actually live.
Don’t forget the extras that make the crate feel right
Once you’ve settled on the right crate size, what you put inside it matters just as much as the dimensions themselves. The right extras can turn a plain wire box into somewhere your dog genuinely wants to spend time — but bulky or mismatched accessories can eat into the floor space you carefully measured. It’s worth thinking about each one before you buy.
Here’s what to keep in mind:
A well-fitted bed or mattress gives your dog a comfortable surface without bunching up against the sides. Flat, supportive options tend to work better than thick, oversized cushions that reduce usable space.
A crate cover cuts out visual stimulation and creates a darker, den-like feel that helps many dogs settle more quickly — especially useful in busier households where there’s always something going on.
A bumper set lines the inner walls with soft padding, which is particularly helpful for puppies who tend to press or lean against the sides. It adds warmth and cosiness without dramatically reducing floor space.
Our cosy crate bed set brings all of these elements together in one thoughtfully designed package, so everything fits and works as it should from day one.
The goal is a snug interior that feels calm and safe — not a cramped one. Get both the crate size and the setup right, and your dog has the best possible foundation for settling in happily.
How to make the final choice with confidence
When you’ve done the measuring, thought about your dog’s daily routine, and browsed your options, the final choice usually comes down to a handful of simple things. Run through this quick checklist before you commit.
Start with your dog’s measurements. Nose to tail and floor to the top of the ears are your two non-negotiables. Add around 10cm to each, and you’ve got the internal crate dimensions you’re actually shopping for.
Check the fit feels cosy, not cavernous. Dogs who love to curl up in a corner often feel more settled in a snugger space. If you’re buying ahead for a growing puppy, use a divider to keep things proportional now and simply move it back as they fill out.
Think about where the crate will live. A crate destined for the car boot has different needs to one tucked into a bedroom corner. Measure doorways, check your boot space, and picture where this crate will actually spend its time.
Don’t overlook the finishing touches. A well-chosen crate cover can turn even a slightly generous-sized crate into a proper den. Take a look at the Lords and Labradors crate cover collection to find something that suits both your crate and your home.
Choosing the right size dog crate really does come down to measuring carefully, thinking practically, and trusting what you already know about your dog. You know them best.
