The Labradoodle is a delightful crossbreed between a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle, known for its friendly disposition and hypoallergenic coat. With a mix of intelligence and a loving nature, Labradoodles make wonderful family pets and are highly adaptable to various living situations.
The Labradoodle is becoming more and more popular with people looking for a loyal and loving pet. The Poodle x Labrador retriever mix was originally bred to encourage hypoallergenic fur and a loving nature. As with all crossbreeds though, their traits can vary somewhat as the puppies will inherit some genes and not others from the pool of their parents. This means not all puppies will be hypoallergenic and sizes will vary. Shopping for a Labradoodle can therefore be more tricky than buying for a pedigree puppy as you can’t always be sure what personality your pup will have. Here we will discuss the items we’d suggest and the things to consider when choosing your Labradoodle puppy’s shopping list.
The basics:
All dogs need pretty much the same basics. Use this checklist to make sure you have all the essentials covered:
1. Dog bowls for food and water
2. Dog Food - ask your breeder what food they’ve been fed as a puppy and continue the same diet for the first few months. Any changes to diet should be made slowly over a week or so.
3. Puppy Bed - we’d suggest a small puppy bed to put inside your crate for the first few weeks. Puppy beds are soft and washable so any accidents can be cleaned easily. You can then upgrade to a full size bed once they are fully toilet trained and have grown in size. You’ll have a better idea of how big they are going to be as an adult.
Labradoodle Dog Crate and Bedding
The size of the puppies can vary depending on the poodle parent and whether they are a standard, miniature or toy breed. No breeder will be able to tell exactly how big the puppies will grow, but they can discuss the puppies lineage to gauge a good estimate. With this in mind the size of crate you will need will depend on this. If your pup’s parent was a miniature poodle a large 36” crate is likely to be a good size, but if the parent was a standard poodle then a 42” will probably be best.
The same goes for the dog bed you choose. Speak to your breeder and find out about the size of the parents to try to help judge how big the pup will grow.
Labradoodle Grooming Products
There are three coat types associated with Labradoodles: straight coats shed the most and are less desirable; silky wavy coats are low shedding; and curly coats are dense, thick and non-shedding. When you know what kind of fur your pup has, you can choose a suitable shampoo for bath time as well as a series of combs for grooming time. A drying coat in a suitable size will also be great for drying after bath time, and also trips out to the beach! Shorter coats will only need a brush twice a week, whilst longer coats may need more regular brushing and a trim every six weeks.
Walking Accessories
Labradoodles tend be intelligent dogs and need a fair amount of activity to keep their brains occupied. A harness and lead is great for training your pup as the harness is comfortable for little pup’s and allows for greater control. It’s best to measure your pup (or get your breeder to do so) to get the perfect fit. It’s important the harness fits snuggly so they don’t wriggle out of it - you may need to size up as they grow. We love the Front Range harness and lead set by Ruffwear - a super durable, premium quality set designed to last.
Toys For a Labradoodle
Poodles are considered the second most intelligent dog breed and Labradors are renowned for their learning skills, so these are traits your Labradoodle will likely inherit. Keeping your dog entertained even when at home will be important and offering a variety of toys will keep their minds active. Buy a selection and rotate them so they don’t get bored and make sure to have all different types including chew toys, soft toys and interactive toys.
We hope our guide was helpful. Remember to speak to your breeder when selecting your pup to best gauge the traits your particular puppy is likely to have.
If you have any questions about our article, please do get in touch. We always love to hear from you. Send us your pictures too - we can't get enough of your pets!!
If you’re anything like us you’ll want your furry friend to look their best, we know that grooming is an essential part in achieving that. Frequent dog grooming helps to keep your dog looking nice, as well as improving their overall health and wellbeing. But you may be wondering how often you should groom your dog. In this week’s blog post, we’re covering everything you need to know about dog grooming.
What Is Dog Grooming
Before we look at how often you should be grooming your dog, let’s look at what dog grooming is. If you’re a first-time dog owner or new to dog grooming we know that keeping on top of your dog’s grooming can be overwhelming which is why we’re here to help.
Dog grooming refers to maintaining your dog’s physical coat and hygiene, which includes everything you do to maintain your dog’s coat, skin, nails and ears, from bathing & brushing to cutting and clipping. For a more detail guide on ‘what dog grooming is’, check out this article from our Information Hub - it looks at everything from what is involved in dog grooming, why it’s important and how long it takes. It’s a great place to start if you’re new to dog grooming or need a refresher.
How Often Should A Dog Be Groomed
Understanding your dog’s coat type is the first step in knowing how often to groom your dog and what the best products to use are. How often to groom a dog, in our experience, will depend on things like hair length, texture, and density of your dog’s coat.
The main types of dog coats are: Short or smooth-haired, Long Haired, Double Coated, Curly and Hairless. In this guide, we break down exactly how often each type of coat needs grooming, as well as give you our top tips for looking after their coat and our favourite products.
How Often Should A Long-Haired Dog Be Groomed?
Long-Haired Dogs include breeds such as Lhasa Apso, German Shepherd, Long-Haired Chihuahuas, Dachshunds & Shih Tzus.
Long Hair coats need regular grooming to prevent matting and tangles, daily brushing will help with this and will remove any debris. If you’ve got a long-haired puppy it’s a good idea to get them used to being brushed from the day you bring them home so they’re desensitised to it from a young age.
When it comes to bathing your long-haired dog, it’s important to keep them clean but also not strip their coat from any natural oils that are keeping it shiny and healthy. In our experience bathing your long-haired dog every 6-8 weeks helps keep their coat in tip-top shape. You can either do this at home or take them to a professional groomer for a bath.
When it comes to cutting your long-haired dog it will depend on your personal taste, lifestyle and season. How short you will want to keep your long-haired dog’s coat will depend on your taste and lifestyle, the typical long-haired cuts you’ll see at Crufts are usually what is considered ‘breed standard’. But if you’re not planning on showing your dog in the show ring any time soon, maybe a shorter more practical cut might suit them more. We’d recommend visiting your groomers for a trim every 2 - 3 months, however, they will advise exactly how often they recommend for your particular lang-haired breed.
For long-haired dogs, we recommend the PetPlex Dirt Defeater collection and a slicker brush. The PetPlex Dirt Defeater collection includes a shampoo, conditioner, and cologne so is perfect for removing any tangles and keeping your dog smelling fresh.
How Often Should A Short-Haired Dog Be Groomed?
Short-Haired dogs include Beagles, Boxers, Dalmatians, Great Danes, Pugs & Rhodesian Ridgebacks.
Short-Haired dog breeds typically need less grooming than their long-haired cousins. In our experience brushing their coats once a week is plenty to help keep them healthy and free of debris.
Short-haired dogs will only need occasional baths, every 4-6 weeks or after a particularly mucky walk.
Short-haired dogs likely won’t need regular haircuts with a professional groomer, although some breeds may still need their undercoat stripped away. Contrary to popular belief, short-haired dogs can shed a lot, particularly when the seasons change. Some groomers will offer a specific short-haired dog package which will include a bath and a deshed which will help remove some of that excess hair and keep your short-haired dog’s coat in top shape.
For short-haired dogs we recommend using a gentle shampoo like the PetPlex Dirt Defeater Collection and a good brush, we like the Rosewood 2-in-1 Bath & Groom Brush as you can put shampoo in the top to dispense at bath time making grooming your dog super easy.
How Often Should A Double Coated Dog Be Groomed?
Double dog breeds include wire-haired breeds such as Border Terriers, Brussels Griffons, Jack Russel Terriers, and Schnauzers, as well as breeds such as Golden Retrievers, Labrador, Pomeranians, and Border Collies.
A double coat on a dog is simply a coat that has two layers, they have an undercoat of dense short hairs and then a top coat of longer hairs or guard hairs. The double coat is great for keeping your dog’s temperature regulated and repelling moisture and dirt.
Double-coated breeds shed a lot, especially in Spring and Fall. Although regular grooming won’t stop this it will certainly help minimise it and keep their coats looking healthy. We recommend brushing double-coated dogs 2-3 times a week - this will help remove debris, any mats or tangles, as well as help to remove some of that excess dead hair that may be irritating them.
A common misconception is that shaving your double-coated dog will help keep them cooler in the summer, however, the opposite is actually true. A double-coated dog is insulated in the follicles rather than by the hair, so when you cut their hair all the insulation is still there, and when the hair grows back quite often 10-14 hairs will grow in the place of each follicle rather than the 5-7 that was there before, which can change the texture of their hair and cause bald patches.
We recommend bathing your double-coated dog roughly every 8-12 weeks. Bathing them more frequently in the summer is a good idea as they will be shedding more and it will help to get rid of some of that excess hair.
When it comes to how often you should be taking your double-coat, it can vary depending on if they’re a short, medium, or long-haired double-coated dog but typically we’d recommend at least four times a year to help de-shed all that dead hair. Your local professional groomer will be able to advise the best length of time for your specific breed of dog.
For your double-coated dog, we recommend a good brush to help them shed that bottom coat, both a slicker brush or an undercoat rake work well.
How Often Should You Groom Your Wavy Or Curly-Haired Dog
Wavy or Curly Haired dogs include a lot of the popular poodle cross breeds such as Labradoodles, Cockapoos, Cavapoo & Cavapoochons, as well as breeds such as Bichon Frise, Spanish Waterdogs, Bedlington Terriers, and Poodles.
Although curly coat breeds are typically low shedding they still require maintenance. The curly texture can be prone to matting and tangling so daily brushing will help keep on top of this, especially after a particularly muddy or wet walk.
When it comes to bathing your curly-haired dogs, you want to avoid doing it too often so that their natural essential oils don’t get stripped from their skin and fur. On average, we recommend at most once a month but ideally every 6 weeks or so, the Dexas Mudbuster is perfect for keeping your curly-haired dog’s paws clean between baths.
Curly-haired dogs are more likely to need a regular trim than other breeds, for this, we recommend taking them to a professional groomer every 6 weeks to keep on top of it.
If you want to bathe your dog at home the PetPlex Curl Perfector Shampoo and Detangling Spray work amazingly on both curly and wavy-haired dogs. The shampoo has been specially formulated for dogs with curly coats and has added wheat protein which will strengthen your dog's hair from the root and give instant voluminous results. A detangling spray can either be used on hair wash day or to help freshen up between full grooms, and it will just help to gently tease away knots and tangles. Other grooming kit essentials for a curly-haired dog include a slicker brush and some thinning scissors to help keep the hair round their eyes neat and tidy between trims.
How Often To Groom A Hairless Dog
Hairless Dog Breeds include Chinese Crested Dogs, Hairless Chihuahuas, American Hairless Terriers, and Xoloitzcuintli.
Needless to say, hairless dogs won’t need brushing or trimming like other coat types but they will still need regular baths and it’s a good idea to brush through any patches of hair they may have. With hairless dogs typically an oily film will form after a couple of weeks, this is a good indication that they’re ready to be bathed.
We recommend a really gentle shampoo to bathe your hairless dog with, like PetPlex Derma Doctor which is fragrance-free and full of mild ingredients so it perfect for hairless dogs
How often you should groom your dog will depend on their breed and coat type. Regular grooming at home is essential for all coat types to help their coats in top shape. If you would like a little bit more information on how to groom a dog why not check out our recent Information Hub article? It’s a simple guide explaining everything you need to know to groom your dog at home.
Some of the questions we are most frequently asked are related to crate training new puppies; Do I need to crate train my puppy? What size dog crate do I need for my new puppy? Are dog crates cruel?...
This guide is for those who have asked any one of those questions, or any other question related to crate training. Our guide will cover all the reasons to strongly consider crating your puppy; what size crate you might need depending on your puppy’s breed; and how to make the crate an inviting place for your puppy.
What To Use A Dog Crate For
There are a number of benefits to crate training:
Crates offer a safe, quiet place for nervous pups in their new environment.
Crates help with toilet training.
Crates help teach your pup their bedtime routine quickly and efficiently.
Crates make a great bed and private space for adult dogs, mimicking the “den” like home their canine ancestors would have lived in.
When you first your new puppy home, they will likely be nervous of everything. Whilst they probably came in to contact with all sorts of noises from birth, everything will seem new again when you bring them home. Crates, when used correctly, will offer your pup a calm safe space of their own. It should become their little den where they can go to relax, as well as when you need to contain them for a short time. The crate will also help get them into a routine, helping teach them when it’s time for bed. As your puppy grows into an adult dog, the crate will become their quiet spot – somewhere for them to enjoy some quiet time and a nap… and maybe a chew on their favourite dog toy!
What NOT to use crates for: Punishment and long-term confinement. This may seem obvious, but crates should never be used as a form of punishment. Rather, they should be seen as a safe space that they can retreat to when they want to relax and get away from the rest of the household. Then if you do need to close your puppy inside for a short time, they will feel relaxed and probably just go to sleep! The last thing you want is for your pup to be nervous of the crate which could lead to destructive behaviour due to stress.
Different Kinds Of Crate
Dog crates fall into three main categories; Metal crates, wooden crates and travel crates.
Metal Crates
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The most popular type of crate as they are less expensive than wooden crates and can easily be folded flat for practical storage when not in use. Some may not like the look of the somewhat cage-like metal crates, but when teamed with a fabric cover and bedding set, they become a really cosy den for your dog. We have both traditional metal crates and our new sliding door crate which is perfect for saving space.
Wooden Crates
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For those looking for something more substantial, our wooden crates are perfect. They are great if you’re looking for a dual-purpose piece of furniture as they suit a range of interior décor styles and make lovely end tables.
Travel Crate
Travel safety is of utmost importance and restraining your dog when travelling in the car is now a legal requirement. A travel crate is a really practical option for most people as they sit simply in the boot and can fold flat when not in use. They are also needed for travel by sea and air – again, another reason to train your pup in a crate whilst young.
How To Find The Perfect Size Dog Crate
Are you wondering what size dog crate to get? We always suggest choosing a big enough crate for your puppy to grow into as an adult dog. This means you won’t have the expense of upgrading to a larger size later on and your dog won’t have to part with the den that has been their favourite private place for as long as they can remember! When they are fully grown, they should have plenty of head room in the crate - about 3-4” of space, as well as be able to move and turn around freely. The worst thing would be for your dog to be cramped inside.
Dog crates come in a number of different sizes, the most common being 24”, 30”, 36”, 42” and 48” in length. Different brands may vary slightly, but most will offer these most common size options. These are our size recommendations for each size of crate*:
24" Crate (S)
Chihuahua, Jack Russell, Shih Tzu, Yorkshire Terrier and similar breeds
30" Crate (M)
Westie, Beagle, Standard and Miniature Dachshunds, French Bulldog, Border Terrier and similar
36" Crate (L)
Cockapoo, Springer Spaniel, Bulldog and similar breeds
42" Crate (XL)
Labrador, Dalmatian, Labradoodle, English Bull Terrier and similar breeds
48" Crate (XXL)
Golden Retrievers, Greyhounds, Bernese Mountain Dogs and similar breeds
*These are our general breed size recommendations. When selecting your crate speak to your breeder to find out what crate size they think will be most suitable. Not every dog of a particular breed is the same size. You might have or be expecting a particularly large Frenchie or a very dainty Cockapoo – use our recommendations as a guide and use this with your breeder’s knowledge of the litter for a more accurate size recommendation.
How To Make A Dog Crate More Comfortable
Crates in their purest form are not the most enticing looking things. One of the first things you will want to do is make the dog crate look inviting. When your puppy is young, you’ll probably add a cosy puppy bed and a blanket as well as a cover to help make it feel more private and comfortable. As your pup grows up a full-size crate cushion is the ideal choice.
Our own brand crate bedding has been designed to make your dog’s crate the most comfortable den ever. We make cushions, bumpers and covers in a whole variety of fabrics to suit every taste. Cushions – Our crate cushions are deeply filled with hollow fibre filling to ensure supreme comfort. The handmade covers are detachable and washable making them super practical. There is also a removable waterproof liner so accidents won’t permeate the inner cushion. Bumpers – Our bumpers have been designed to create a cosy wall of softness to the inside of your dog’s crate. Sitting around the edge of the cushion, they are perfect for dogs and puppies who like to snuggle up in the corner of their crate. They also look beautiful too! Covers – Our crate covers are practical and stylish. Our crate covers are handmade in our workshop and turn your bare, draughty crate into a beautiful pet den. They come in a range of fabric choices and feature roll-up doors to help get your pup in their bedtime routine.
How To Make The Perfect Puppy Crate
The crate set-up will be slightly different for a puppy to the crate set-up for an adult dog. If you buy a size suitable for your pup as an adult as we recommend, we’d then suggest the following items to use inside:
Puppy Bed
Vet Bed
Puppy pad
Water bowls
Crate Cover
Blanket/Snuggle Toy
Chew Toy
Our preferred layout is to pop a piece of Vetbed on the base of the crate then a puppy bed on top in one half; then pop a puppy pad in the other half. Your puppy won’t be able to hold themselves in the first couple of weeks that they’re home so a puppy pad will ensure accidents are easily cleaned. Remember to add in a bowl for water for when your pup is closed inside and a chew toy to help prevent them from nibbling their bed!
When your puppy grows and is fully toilet trained you can swap out the puppy essentials for a full crate set; a cushion, bumper and cover. Our crate sets offer optimum den comfort whilst looking super stylish too! Explore our crate bedding range.
Picking the best dog breeds for first-time owners is genuinely one of the most important decisions you’ll make as a new dog parent, and getting it right sets you both up for a much happier start. The right match comes down to more than just looks or popularity — it’s about finding a breed whose temperament, energy levels, and care needs actually fit around your home and your life. This guide covers everything from easygoing family favourites and low-maintenance options to small breeds built for flatter living and livelier picks for active households.
Best dog breeds for first-time owners: how to choose the right fit
Bringing home your first dog is one of the most exciting things you’ll ever do — but choosing the right breed makes all the difference between settling in with confidence and feeling completely out of your depth. The best dog breeds for first-time owners tend to share a handful of qualities: a temperament that forgives the inevitable rookie mistakes, a willingness to learn, and exercise and grooming needs that actually fit around your life.
Before you fall for a breed based on looks alone, it’s worth being honest with yourself. Do you work long hours? Live in a flat? Have young children or a schedule that’s rarely the same twice? A high-energy working breed in a small home with a busy owner is hard going for everyone involved. Government guidance on dog adoption puts it simply: if you want a calm, stable dog, look for an easygoing animal; if you want an outgoing dog, look for an adventurous animal. That straightforward advice applies whether you’re adopting or buying from a breeder.
Not sure which route is right for you? Our guide on whether to get a dog from a breeder or a rescue walks you through both options.
The sections below round up the easiest dog breeds for first-time owners by lifestyle — from calm, family-friendly favourites to lower-maintenance choices and breeds that suit more active households. Think of it as a starting point rather than a rulebook. Breed traits paint a picture, but every dog is its own personality too.
Easygoing family dogs that are a joy to train
If you want a dog that slips happily into family life and enjoys learning, start with breeds that are sociable and eager to please. You might sometimes hear these described as “biddable”, which simply means they tend to listen well and want to work with you. For first-time owners, that can make everyday training feel far less overwhelming.
Labrador Retriever: Outgoing, gentle, and full of enthusiasm, Labs are one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners for a reason. They usually pick up commands quickly, love being part of the action, and are often wonderfully patient with children. Life with a Lab tends to mean a shadow at your feet, a happy walking buddy, and a dog who wants to join in with everything. If you’re planning for a puppy, have a look at everything you need for your Labrador Retriever puppy.
Golden Retriever: Friendly, affectionate, and steady-natured, Goldens are lovely family-friendly dog breeds for beginners. They respond beautifully to positive reinforcement and usually thrive when they have a clear routine and plenty of company.
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel: Sweet, adaptable, and easy to live with, Cavaliers fit into lots of different homes. They’re just as happy curling up beside you as they are joining you for a stroll, which makes daily life feel relaxed and manageable.
Bichon Frise: Cheerful and sociable, Bichons bring plenty of personality in a smaller package. They’re often a great match if you want one of the easiest dog breeds for first-time owners with a playful but gentle nature.
What these breeds have in common is simple: they like being with their people, and that makes training, routines, and family life feel much easier.
Low-maintenance breeds for busy households
If you’re weighing up the best dog breeds for first-time owners and hoping “low-maintenance” isn’t just a myth, here’s the honest truth: it’s complicated. These breeds genuinely are easier to manage day to day — no hours at the grooming table, no two-hour runs before breakfast — but they still need your time, your consistency, and real attention to thrive.
Breed
Grooming Needs
Exercise Requirements
Best For
French Bulldog
Minimal, weekly wipe-down
30–45 mins daily
Flat or small home living
Boston Terrier
Low, occasional brush
30–45 mins daily
Active city dwellers
Greyhound
Very low, short smooth coat
30–60 mins daily
Quieter homes, first-time owners
What makes these breeds so approachable for beginners:
Short coats that need little more than a quick brush and the occasional bath
Calm, settled behaviour indoors — even in smaller spaces
Adaptable temperaments that fit around a range of household routines
Lower grooming costs than longer-coated or double-coated breeds
That said, no dog just slots in without effort. Even the most laid-back Greyhound needs a proper routine and enough mental stimulation to stay happy. It’s easy to underestimate this part — lots of first-time owners focus on grooming and forget that a bored dog is rarely a well-behaved one. Getting to grips with your dog’s regular exercise needs is just as important as knowing how often to pick up a brush, so go in with clear expectations from the start.
Small dog breeds that suit flats and first homes
Living in a flat or smaller home doesn’t mean dog ownership is off the table. Some of the best dog breeds for first-time owners are compact, adaptable, and genuinely content in cosier spaces — you just need to pick a breed that suits your lifestyle from the start.
Breed
Energy Level
Grooming Needs
Barking Tendency
Miniature Schnauzer
Moderate
High (regular trimming needed)
Moderate to high
Cocker Spaniel
Moderate to high
High (frequent brushing and clipping)
Low to moderate
Shih Tzu
Low to moderate
High (daily brushing recommended)
Low
A few practical things worth thinking through before you decide:
Noise levels matter in shared buildings. A vocal breed can create friction with neighbours fast, so look closely at barking tendencies before you commit.
Small doesn’t mean low-energy. Even compact breeds need regular walks. A Cocker Spaniel will want noticeably more outdoor time than a Shih Tzu.
Grooming costs add up quickly. All three breeds above need consistent coat care, whether that’s brushing at home or a trip to the groomer every six to eight weeks.
Mental stimulation counts indoors too. Puzzle feeders and enrichment toys can make a real difference for apartment dogs between walks.
Getting the breed right is only part of the picture. Our guide to bringing a new puppy home covers those first days with practical, reassuring advice, so both of you can settle in with confidence.
Breeds for active owners who still want a beginner-friendly dog
If you love getting outside and want a dog that matches your energy, some of the best dog breeds for first-time owners are actually the livelier ones. Breeds like the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Whippet, and Poodle are all highly trainable, people-focused, and genuinely rewarding to live with — as long as you can meet their daily needs.
Breed
Exercise Needs
Beginner-Friendliness
Staffordshire Bull Terrier
1–2 hours daily
High. Eager to please, loves routine
Whippet
1 hour daily
High. Calm indoors, easy to manage
Poodle
1–2 hours daily
Very high. Exceptionally quick to learn
With higher-energy breeds, enrichment matters just as much as the walk itself. A few things that make a real difference:
Vary your outings. One longer walk plus a shorter, sniff-led amble gives their brain a proper workout, not just their legs.
Keep things interesting at home. Rotating toys and mixing in puzzle or interactive options — like those in the Lords and Labradors puppy toy collection — helps prevent boredom between walks.
Train little and often. Five minutes of positive, reward-based training a day builds a dog who is genuinely lovely to live with.
Make play count. It is one of the fastest ways to build trust and strengthen your bond.
Get the routine right and these breeds become some of the most rewarding companions a first-time owner can choose. They want to work with you — and that makes everything easier.
Which breed is best for you? A quick first-time owner shortlist
Choosing the right breed really does come down to one question: what does your daily life actually look like? Once you’re honest about that, the shortlist almost writes itself.
If you want a calm, easygoing companion who’s happy to follow your lead, a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel or a Bichon Frise is hard to beat. Both are gentle, adaptable, and genuinely lovely to train — ideal first dogs for quieter households.
For busier homes where time is stretched, a Greyhound or a Shih Tzu asks surprisingly little of you day to day. Loyal, quiet, and perfectly content with shorter bursts of activity, they fit around real life rather than demanding you reorganise it.
If you have kids and want a dog who genuinely thrives in the thick of family life, a Golden Retriever or a Labrador brings the kind of patience and warmth that makes the whole thing feel easy.
And if weekends mean long walks and muddy boots, a Border Terrier or a Cocker Spaniel will keep up with you happily, without the steep learning curve some more demanding breeds bring.
Whichever direction you’re leaning, getting the basics sorted early makes a real difference. Browse our puppy essentials collection to feel properly prepared before your new dog even comes home.
Frequently Asked Questions
What breed of dog is best for first time owners?
There isn’t one perfect breed for every first-time owner, but Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and Bichon Frises are all strong beginner-friendly choices. They tend to be sociable, trainable, and easier to fit into everyday family life than more demanding breeds.
What is the easiest dog to own for beginners?
Some of the easiest dogs for beginners are Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Bichon Frises, Greyhounds, and Shih Tzus. They’re generally adaptable, manageable day to day, and easier to live with when their exercise, grooming, and routine match the home you’re bringing them into.
What are the calmest dog breeds?
Greyhounds, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and Shih Tzus are among the calmest breeds mentioned here. They’re often settled indoors, adaptable, and happy with a steadier pace of life, which can make them a lovely fit for quieter homes or first-time owners wanting an easygoing companion.
Bringing a new puppy home when you already have a dog is one of those moments that can feel equal parts exciting and quietly nerve-wracking. Knowing how to introduce a new puppy to a resident dog well makes a real difference, not just in those first few minutes, but in how comfortably both dogs settle into life together over the weeks that follow. This guide covers everything from reading body language and nailing that first meeting, to building a steady first-week routine and avoiding the mistakes that can make things harder than they need to be.
Before they meet: setting up a calm first introduction
The preparation you do before your dogs ever see each other matters far more than anything that happens in those first five minutes. Think of it less like a playdate and more like a careful first impression — you want both dogs walking away feeling fine, not frazzled.
Location plays a bigger role than most people expect. Research from Ohio State University recommends that you introduce the dogs in a neutral area rather than your own home or yard, where your resident dog already has a strong sense of ownership. A quiet street nearby, a car park at a local park, or a friend’s garden can all work well. Somewhere your older dog hasn’t claimed as their territory gives both dogs a fairer, less loaded starting point.
Timing is worth thinking about too. Try to avoid making introductions when either dog is tired, hungry, or already buzzing with energy. Mid-morning often hits a sweet spot — both dogs have had a chance to settle after waking up, but the day hasn’t wound them up yet. If your resident dog has already had a good walk and is naturally a bit calmer, that’s worth factoring in.
Keep the environment as low-key as you can. Skip the audience of excitable family members, the children tearing around, the general household chaos. The fewer distractions, the more mental space both dogs have to actually focus on each other. Keep both dogs on lead, but hold the lead loosely — tension travels straight down the line and into the dog, and even a relaxed dog can feel that shift.
Most importantly, go in without a fixed idea of how it should go. Some dogs take to each other straight away. Others need days — sometimes weeks — of gradual, managed exposure before they genuinely start to settle. Neither outcome means anything has gone wrong. A good introduction isn’t about manufacturing an instant bond. It’s about creating the right conditions so both dogs feel safe enough to build one at their own pace.
If you’re still in the thick of preparation, our guide to bringing a puppy home is a great place to get the fuller picture before that first meeting happens.
What to look for in body language from both dogs
Knowing how to read what your dogs are telling you is honestly the most valuable skill when it comes to introducing a new puppy to a resident dog. Dogs communicate constantly through posture, movement, and expression, and catching early signs of stress means you can slow things down before any real tension builds.
Relaxed, positive signals to look for:
Loose, wiggly body movement
Soft, blinking eyes
A gently wagging tail (relaxed, not rigid)
Play bows — front end down, bottom in the air
Calm, curious sniffing
A relaxed, slightly open mouth
Moving freely between you and the other dog
Warning signals that mean slow down:
Stiff or frozen posture
A hard, unblinking stare
Lip licking or yawning that feels out of place
Raised hackles along the back
A tail held very high and rigid, or tucked right under
Consistently turning away or trying to avoid the other dog
Whale eye (where you can see the whites of their eyes)
When to step in: If either dog freezes, growls, or one keeps trying to get away from the other, calmly separate them and let both have a quiet break. That is not failure — it just means they need a little more time and space before trying again.
It is also worth remembering that these signals matter for both dogs, not just the one you are most worried about. Puppies have boundless energy and zero awareness of personal space, which can easily overwhelm a resident dog who has never had to share their home before. An older dog who feels repeatedly stressed will take much longer to come around. Keeping one eye on each of them is the real trick here. If you want to feel more confident reading these cues, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is well worth a read.
How to introduce a new puppy to a resident dog step by step
Knowing how to introduce a new puppy to a resident dog can feel daunting, but with the right pacing it really is manageable. Take it one small step at a time, stay calm yourself, and trust the process — most dogs do find their rhythm together, they just need a little space and patience to get there.
Start outdoors with parallel walking. Before any face-to-face greeting, walk both dogs in the same outdoor space with a comfortable distance between them. A quiet street or park works well. This lets each dog become aware of the other without any pressure to engage. Keep the energy easy and reward both dogs for calm behaviour as you go.
Allow controlled sniffing at a distance. Gradually close the gap over several minutes, letting each dog take in the other’s scent from afar. Keep leads loose throughout — neither dog should feel restricted or cornered at this stage.
Move to a short on-lead greeting. When both dogs look relaxed, allow a brief sniff hello on lead. A few seconds is plenty to begin with. This is one of the most important moments in any puppy and resident dog introduction, so resist the urge to let it run on, even if it seems to be going well.
Head indoors for brief supervised time together. Once the outdoor greeting has gone smoothly, bring both dogs inside for a short off-lead session in a neutral room. Keep food and toys out of the picture initially — removing that competition early makes a real difference.
Watch closely and step in calmly if needed. If either dog seems overwhelmed, separate them quietly and give both a chance to decompress before trying again.
Signs one dog needs a break: a stiff or frozen posture, tucked tail, excessive panting, or turning away and shutting down. If you notice any of these, calmly lead the dogs apart, give each one some quiet time in their own space, and return to shorter sessions when they’re both settled.
Build up shared time gradually. Over the following days, slowly extend how long they spend together — always supervised, always with an easy exit available for both dogs.
Pacing really is everything when introducing a new puppy to an older dog or a resident dog of any age. Where you can, handle one dog at a time, keep early sessions short, and let the relationship develop at its own pace. If you want help thinking through the bigger picture too, our guide to bringing a new puppy home covers everything you need to help both dogs feel settled from day one.
Making the first week feel safe and predictable
The first week at home sets the tone for everything that follows, and knowing how to introduce a new puppy to a resident dog well goes beyond that initial meeting in the park. What actually helps both dogs relax is structure and predictability. When each dog knows what to expect from their day, that low-level tension that comes from uncertainty starts to fade on its own.
Here are five daily practices worth building into your routine from day one:
Feed them separately. Use different rooms or at least opposite ends of the space, and always pick up bowls once each dog has finished. Even the most laid-back older dog can feel uncomfortable with a bouncy puppy hovering near their food bowl.
Keep sleeping areas apart. Your puppy needs their own safe space to wind down without your resident dog wandering in. A consistent, settled sleep setup makes a real difference — our guide on creating the perfect puppy sleep routine has some practical tips to get you started.
Stagger toilet breaks where you can. Taking them out separately in the early days keeps things calm and gives each dog a quiet moment of one-to-one time with you, which both of them will appreciate.
Keep shared time short and intentional. A few brief, calm sessions together are far better than long stretches of unsupervised chaos. Five to ten minutes, a few times a day, is genuinely plenty to begin with.
Put high-value items away. Chews, bones, favourite toys — clear them from shared spaces for now. Resource guarding can flare up in dogs that have never shown it before, so it’s simply not worth the risk this early on.
Quick tip: always end interactions before either dog reaches their limit. A session that finishes while both dogs are still calm and happy does far more good than one that tips into overexcitement or stress.
None of this is about keeping your dogs apart forever. It’s about giving them the steadiness they need to actually get comfortable with each other, so that the easy, relaxed coexistence you’re hoping for has a real chance to take root.
Common mistakes that can make introductions harder
Even the most prepared pet parents can stumble during introductions, and usually it’s pure excitement that’s to blame rather than carelessness. These are easy mistakes to make. The good news is that spotting them early makes the whole process so much smoother for everyone involved.
Rushing straight to off-lead play. It feels natural to just let them get on with it, but dropping the leads too soon takes away your ability to step in if things get tense. Keep early interactions on lead and in neutral spaces while you find your feet.
Expecting instant bonding. Some dogs click immediately, but many don’t. If you’re watching for cuddles on day one, you’ll miss the quieter signs of real progress, like calm sniffing or simply choosing to settle near each other.
Leaving them alone together too soon. Until you’re genuinely confident both dogs are relaxed around each other, they should always be supervised. A crate gives each dog their own breathing space when you can’t be right there watching. If you’re new to crating, our guide to dog crates is a great place to start.
Skipping neutral territory. Meeting at home immediately puts the resident dog on guard. A quiet street or local park gives both dogs a calmer, more level playing field for that first hello.
Letting the puppy crowd the older dog. Puppies have zero concept of personal space. Redirecting them before they pester or overwhelm your resident dog protects the relationship before it’s even had a chance to form.
Slowing the process down, even when everything looks fine, almost always leads to calmer, more settled dogs in the long run. These mistakes are easy to sidestep once you know what to look out for.
When to slow down and ask for extra help
Sometimes, even with the best preparation, things don’t click straight away. That’s completely normal, and it doesn’t mean you’ve done anything wrong.
There are a few signs worth taking seriously, though. If your resident dog is freezing stiff, growling well beyond a single brief warning, or struggling to eat and settle after several days, those are clear signals to slow the pace right down. The same applies to a puppy who has shut down, stopped playing, or seems anxious every time your older dog is nearby. One or two tense moments are to be expected. Persistent stress in either dog deserves proper attention.
If meetings keep ending badly despite giving both dogs space and time, go back to basics. Separate their areas completely for a few days, swap bedding so they can get used to each other’s scent from a safe distance, then reintroduce through a baby gate before attempting face-to-face contact again. It might feel like a step backwards, but a full reset is often the most useful thing you can do.
If you’ve worked through all of this and things still feel stuck, a qualified behaviourist using positive, force-free methods can genuinely help. Your vet is usually a good first call for a reputable recommendation.
It’s also worth knowing that this same steady, patient approach applies to other introductions at home. If you’re also navigating life with a cat, our guide on how to get your dog and cat to get along walks through a similarly careful process.
Slowing down isn’t giving up. It’s the kindest, smartest move you can make for both dogs.
Why does my dog dig at their bed before lying down?
That satisfying scratch-paw-circle routine your dog performs before finally settling down is one of those small mysteries that leaves a lot of pet parents genuinely curious. Understanding why dogs dig at their bed comes down to a fascinating mix of ancient instinct, comfort-seeking, and the occasional signal that something in their sleep setup needs attention. In this article, we’ll walk through what’s really going on, when it’s worth a second look, and how to put together a sleeping space your dog will actually love.
Why dogs dig at their bed before settling down
If you’ve ever watched your dog scratch, paw, and circle their bed before finally flopping down with a satisfied sigh, you’re in very good company. It’s one of those behaviours that looks a little eccentric but is, for most dogs, completely normal.
So why do dogs dig at their bed before lying down? The short answer: it’s a deeply rooted mix of instinct, comfort-seeking, and habit. Dogs have been doing this for thousands of years — long before memory foam or fleece linings were part of the picture, and the behaviour has simply carried over into domestic life.
It usually comes down to three things. Instinct, first and foremost. Wild dogs would scratch at grass, leaves, or earth to shape a sheltered sleeping spot, and that drive hasn’t gone anywhere. Then there’s comfort — rearranging bedding helps your dog settle into just the right position and temperature. And finally, scent. Dogs have scent glands in their paws, so all that scratching is also their way of quietly claiming the space as their own.
Most of the time, there’s nothing to worry about. It’s just your dog being a dog. If you’re thinking about whether their current bed is actually working for them, our introduction to dog beds is a helpful place to start.
The instinct side: nesting, scent-marking, and den behaviour
So much of what looks like quirky dog behaviour actually makes perfect sense once you understand where it comes from and why dogs dig at their bed is a great example. This habit stretches back thousands of years, long before cosy living rooms and memory foam mattresses, when dogs’ wild ancestors had to create their own resting spots from scratch.
Here are the key instincts at play when your dog digs, scratches, and circles before settling:
Denning instinct: Wild canines would dig shallow hollows in the earth to create a sheltered, secure sleeping space. Your dog is doing exactly the same thing just with a fleece blanket instead of soil.
Nesting for comfort and warmth: Dog nesting behaviour typically involves rearranging bedding to trap heat or create a cooler spot, depending on the time of year. Think of it as your dog fine-tuning their own little microclimate.
Circling to check their surroundings: That pre-sleep loop isn’t random. It’s an instinctive safety scan — a way of checking for anything unusual before becoming vulnerable in sleep.
Scent-marking through their paws: Dogs have small scent glands in their paw pads, so when they scratch their bed, they’re leaving behind a subtle personal scent. It’s their way of saying this space is mine.
All of these behaviours are healthy, normal expressions of instinct — nothing to worry about. If your dog is a dedicated digger, a bed with deeper, cushioned sides gives them something genuinely satisfying to paw into and curl against. The Lords & Labradors Nest Dog Bed is designed with exactly that in mind.
Could your dog be trying to get more comfortable or regulate temperature?
Sometimes the simplest explanation is the right one. A lot of the time, when dogs dig at their bed before lying down, they’re just trying to get comfortable — and temperature has more to do with it than most owners would guess.
Think of it as your dog doing a quick pre-sleep audit of their space. A bit of pawing here, some rearranging there — it’s their version of plumping a pillow or stealing the cool side of the duvet. Completely relatable, honestly.
Here are some of the most common comfort-driven reasons dogs scratch or dig before settling:
Fluffing blankets to trap warmth on colder nights
Pawing bedding aside to find a cooler, flatter surface when they’re feeling too warm
Bunching soft material into a nest shape that cradles their body just so
Shifting around to avoid lumps, seams, or uneven patches in the bed
Creating a small hollow that feels snug and enclosed
Quick fact: Dog nesting behaviour is rooted in an instinct to build a thermally efficient sleep spot — one that helps them retain heat or release it depending on what their body needs in that moment.
The reassuring part? This kind of digging is almost always completely normal. Your dog isn’t anxious or unsettled. They’re just making their bed work for them. If you’ve ever wondered whether a blanket might help them feel more settled at night, this guide is worth a read.
When bed-digging is normal — and when it might point to a problem
For most dogs, a bit of digging and circling before settling down is completely normal — it’s deeply instinctive, and if your dog has always done it, there’s almost certainly nothing to worry about. That said, a few signs are worth keeping an eye on.
Frantic or repeated scratching that looks more like frustration than habit
Restless pacing around the bed without ever actually settling
Whimpering or vocalising during the pre-sleep routine
Repeatedly abandoning the bed to sleep somewhere else instead
Noticeable changes in how long or how deeply your dog sleeps
Redness, flaking, or irritation around the paws or belly
When these things start showing up, it’s often your dog’s way of telling you something feels off. It could be stress, a new source of physical discomfort, or even a reaction to a laundry product you’ve used on their bedding — you’d be surprised how often that one catches people out. Sometimes, though, the answer is simpler: the bed itself may no longer be right for them.
Dogs’ needs genuinely change over time. A bed that was perfect for a bouncy two-year-old Labrador might not offer nearly enough support for that same dog at eight. If your dog seems unsettled in a way that goes beyond their usual pre-sleep ritual, it’s worth taking a proper look at their sleeping setup. Our guide on how to pick a dog bed is a good place to start.
How to make your dog’s bed more inviting
If your dog is going to dig at their bed before lying down, the least you can do is give them a great one to work with. A few small changes can make a real difference to how settled they feel come sleep time.
Start with size. A bed that’s too small forces your dog to curl up awkwardly, while one that’s too large can feel exposed rather than snug. Dogs with strong nesting instincts — particularly smaller breeds and anxious dogs — often do best with a bed that has raised sides or a bolster to press against. It gives them something to dig into, and something to tuck against once they’re done.
Material matters too. Soft, washable fabrics tend to invite the most nesting behaviour, and keeping bedding clean helps your dog feel at home rather than unsettled by unfamiliar smells. That said, if you notice more scratching and circling after a wash, try placing a worn t-shirt or familiar blanket in the bed to bring back that comforting scent. Our guide on how to clean your Lords & Labradors pet bedding has some useful tips for keeping things fresh without losing that familiarity your dog relies on.
Placement is worth thinking about too. A quiet corner, away from drafts and busy walkways, gives your dog the chance to settle without distraction. Get the setup right, and you’ll likely find the whole pre-sleep ritual — the circling, the digging, the pawing — becomes calmer and quicker than you’d expect.
Cats are famously hard to predict, and their sleeping habits are no exception. If you’ve ever wondered why do cats sleep in different places, the answer reaches back to instinct, but it’s also shaped by temperature, mood, territory, and the rhythms of daily life. In this article, we’ll walk through what’s really going on when your cat moves between spots, and how to create a sleep setup they’ll genuinely want to use.
Why cats change sleeping spots so often
If you’ve ever spotted your cat snoozing on the sofa in the morning, tucked behind the bathroom door by lunchtime, and somehow wedged into a cardboard box by evening — you’re not alone. This is just cats being cats.
So why do cats sleep in different places? The short answer is instinct. In the wild, cats rotate their sleeping spots to avoid becoming predictable to predators, so no single location ever feels too exposed. Your perfectly safe indoor cat carries those same instincts, even if the biggest threat in their day is the vacuum cleaner.
Beyond instinct, cats are committed comfort-seekers. They’ll follow a patch of sunlight across the living room floor, claim the warmest corner of the house, or decide that your fresh laundry pile is, clearly, the ideal place for a nap. Their sleeping habits shift with the light, the temperature, their mood, and the rhythms of the day.
The reassuring part is that moving between sleeping spots is completely normal cat behaviour. It doesn’t mean they’re unsettled or unhappy. Most of the time, it simply means they’re doing what cats do best: finding the most comfortable option available to them right now.
If you’d like to give them a few more worthy options to choose from, browsing our cat beds is a great place to start.
How territory and safety shape where your cat sleeps
Cats are deeply territorial, and where they choose to sleep is rarely accidental. Their wild ancestors had to stay alert even while resting, and that instinct is very much alive in your cat today. In fact, one of the clearest explanations for why cats sleep in different places is rooted in survival behaviour — rotating spots helps them stay familiar with their home and feel in control of it.
A few key instincts shape where your cat decides to settle:
Territory rotation — moving between spots helps cats mentally map their home and notice any changes
Escape route awareness — cats gravitate towards positions where they can see the room clearly and make a quick exit if needed
High perches for surveillance — the top of a bookshelf or a sunny windowsill offers a satisfying bird’s-eye view of everything going on below
Tucked-away corners for concealment — when they want to feel hidden and unbothered, a snug or covered spot feels far more secure
Reading the room — a busier, noisier space will often send a cat straight to somewhere quieter and less exposed
So when your cat keeps sleeping in different spots or turns up in seemingly odd places, it’s usually a very deliberate read of the environment. Once you see their habits as purposeful rather than puzzling, it becomes much easier to support them well.
If your cat has a particular love of sheltered, den-like spaces, a high-sided cat bed can offer exactly the cocooned, secure feeling their instincts are quietly asking for.
Temperature, comfort, and the hunt for the perfect cosy spot
One of the most straightforward reasons why cats sleep in different places comes down to temperature. Cats are incredibly sensitive to heat and cold, and they’ll instinctively seek out whichever spot in your home feels just right at any given moment.
You’ve probably spotted your cat doing some of these:
Following a patch of sunlight as it moves across the floor during the morning
Pressing right up against the radiator on a cold winter afternoon
Sprawling flat out on cool kitchen tiles when the weather warms up
Burrowing into a soft blanket or throw for an extra layer of warmth
Claiming a spot on top of the sofa or a high shelf, where warm air naturally collects
Tucking into a snug, enclosed space that holds body heat and feels sheltered
Worth knowing: Cats sleep between 12 and 16 hours a day. That’s a serious amount of rest, which means comfort isn’t a luxury for them — it’s a genuine daily need. Rotating between spots is simply how they stay at the right temperature as the day changes around them.
Giving your cat several cosy options around the home works with this instinct rather than against it. A soft blanket in a sunny corner, a cool retreat in the hallway, and something like a cosy burrow-style bed that wraps snugly around them each serve different needs at different times of day. The more choices they have, the more settled they tend to feel.
What your cat’s mood and routine can tell you
There’s rarely one simple answer to why cats sleep in different places, because where your cat chooses to rest often reflects how they’re actually feeling. Mood, confidence, stress, and shifts in your home routine all quietly shape those decisions — sometimes from one day to the next.
What sleep spot changes can reveal:
A new pet or baby in the home — your cat may retreat to quieter, more secluded spots while they find their feet again
Growing confidence — a previously anxious cat sprawling in the middle of the sofa is genuinely a good sign
Ageing and joint comfort — older cats often abandon high perches in favour of lower, softer spots that are kinder on their bodies
Disrupted daily routine — changes to feeding times or your own schedule can shift when and where your cat likes to settle
Seasonal temperature shifts — the windowsill they loved all summer may lose its appeal entirely come winter
Bonding and trust — choosing to sleep closer to you is usually a sign your cat feels safe and at home
A relaxed cat rotating between favourite spots is completely normal. What’s worth paying attention to is a sudden change paired with lethargy, hiding, or loss of appetite — that combination is worth a conversation with your vet.
Most of the time, changing sleeping spots is simply feline instinct doing its thing. Giving your cat a variety of comfortable, well-placed options means they can follow those instincts freely — which, honestly, is all they’re asking for.
How to create a sleep setup your cat will actually use
The good news? Supporting your cat’s sleep habits doesn’t need to be a big project. A few small changes around your home can go a long way.
Start by offering variety. Cats change sleeping spots for good reasons, so give them real options across different areas. Think about height, warmth, and noise levels. A cosy enclosed bed tucked in a sunny corner, a soft blanket folded on a lower shelf, and a spot near their favourite person covers most of what cats are quietly looking for.
Warmth matters more than most people expect. If your cat keeps ditching their bed for the radiator or a fresh pile of laundry, take that as a hint. A well-padded, hooded bed tends to beat a flat open one, especially once the temperature drops.
Location is just as important as the bed itself. Avoid busy walkways or anywhere the household tends to gather loudly. Cats sleep best when they feel settled, not like they need to keep one eye open.
Once you’ve set up a few spots, give it a week or two and just watch. You’ll start to notice the patterns fairly quickly: the sunny morning stretch, the quiet evening retreat, the social snooze next to you on the sofa.
Understanding why cats sleep in different places is really just about learning to read your cat. Once you do, making small tweaks to their space starts to feel less like guesswork and a lot more like second nature.
Sore gums, mystery teeth marks on the furniture, a puppy who seems a little off but you can’t quite put your finger on why — puppy teething symptoms have a way of creeping up before you’ve even thought to look for them. In this guide, we’ll walk you through what’s actually happening inside your puppy’s mouth, what the teething timeline looks like, and how to tell normal discomfort from something worth a vet call. You’ll also find some genuinely simple ways to soothe sore gums at home and keep the chewing pointed in the right direction.
What puppy teething symptoms look like in everyday life
Most puppy parents notice something is off before they even think to connect it to teething. The shoes have mysteriously acquired teeth marks, your puppy is mouthing your hands more than usual, and they seem a little out of sorts in general. Sound familiar? Once you know what to look for, the whole picture starts to make sense.
The most obvious sign is a sudden surge in chewing. Everything becomes fair game: furniture corners, skirting boards, your favourite jumper. Alongside this, you might notice your puppy dribbling more than usual or pawing at their mouth. If you gently lift their lip, look for gums that appear a little red or puffy, especially around the spots where new teeth are starting to push through.
Nipping tends to increase too, and it can feel more frantic than playful. This is not your puppy being difficult or defiant. Their gums are genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing brings relief. Giving them appropriate things to gnaw on, like textured puppy toys designed with teething in mind, makes a real difference at this stage.
A fussier mood is also completely normal. Some puppies go off their food for a day or two, sleep more restlessly, or simply seem a little flat compared to their usual bouncy selves. It will pass.
Spotting these puppy teething signs for what they actually are helps you respond with patience rather than frustration. That is better for your puppy, and honestly, better for you too.
When puppy teething starts and when it usually ends
Puppy teething symptoms can feel like they’ve come out of nowhere, but the process actually begins earlier than most people realise. Baby teeth start pushing through from around 3 to 8 weeks of age, and by 12 to 16 weeks, adult teeth begin replacing them. The whole stage typically wraps up by around 6 to 7 months, so as relentless as it feels right now, it really is temporary.
Here’s how the puppy teething timeline usually unfolds:
0 to 3 weeks — Puppies are born without teeth. Gums are soft, and there’s no discomfort yet.
3 to 8 weeks — Baby teeth (also called milk teeth) begin coming through. Most puppies have their full set of 28 by around 8 weeks.
12 to 16 weeks — Adult teeth start pushing through. This is when puppy teething signs tend to become most noticeable, with chewing and drooling ramping up noticeably.
4 to 6 months — Adult teeth continue replacing baby teeth. Don’t be surprised if you find a tiny tooth on the kitchen floor.
6 to 7 months — The full set of 42 adult teeth is usually in place.
Worth knowing: Most puppies have all 42 adult teeth by 6 to 7 months. That’s the finish line, and it will arrive.
How long puppies teethe and how intensely they feel it does vary. Larger breeds sometimes experience more pronounced discomfort, and some puppies are just more sensitive than others. If your pup seems particularly restless or chew-obsessed, that’s usually why.
Getting the right supplies together early makes the whole stage far more manageable. Lords & Labradors’ puppy collection is a great starting point if you’re building your teething toolkit.
Why teething makes puppies chew, bite, and act out
If your puppy seems to be chewing everything in sight, nipping at your hands, or waking you up at odd hours, take a breath — this is not a sign that you’ve got a troublesome pup on your hands. These are classic puppy teething symptoms, and they’re almost always your puppy’s way of telling you their mouth is uncomfortable.
During teething, the gums become inflamed as adult teeth push through the tissue. That pressure and sensitivity is genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing provides just enough counter-pressure to bring some relief. Think of it like a human baby reaching for anything they can gnaw on. Your puppy isn’t acting out — they’re coping.
The most common behavioural signs linked to teething discomfort include:
Chewing furniture, skirting boards, and shoes — anything firm that creates that satisfying counter-pressure
Destroying bedding or soft furnishings, which tends to ramp up at night when there’s nothing else to redirect their attention to
Mouthing or grabbing hands during play, often more persistently than usual
Eating more slowly or briefly going off food because chewing feels sore
Drooling more than normal, thanks to increased saliva production during teething
Seeming restless or unsettled at bedtime, especially during the most intense teething weeks
All of this is temporary. Once you understand it’s physical discomfort driving the behaviour rather than wilfulness, it becomes a lot easier to respond with patience and redirect your puppy calmly.
How to soothe sore gums at home
Once you’ve started recognising the puppy teething symptoms your pup is showing, the focus naturally shifts from spotting the signs to actually making them feel better. The good news? There’s plenty you can do at home, and most of it is simple.
Offer puppy-safe chew toys designed with teething in mind. Softer rubber or nylon options give sore gums something satisfying to work on without causing damage. It’s worth having a few different styles on the go — browse puppy-safe chew toys to find options suited to your pup’s size and chew strength.
Try a briefly chilled damp flannel. Wet a cloth, pop it in the fridge for 20 minutes, then let your puppy gnaw on it. The gentle coolness soothes inflamed gums without the risks that come with frozen items.
Rotate toys regularly. Puppies lose interest quickly, so swapping things out every day or two keeps chewing directed at the right targets rather than your skirting boards.
Stay nearby during chewing sessions. Supervising means you can calmly redirect your pup the moment they switch from their toy to your favourite chair leg — and they will try.
Redirect rather than just remove. When your puppy goes for something off-limits, swap it straight away with an appropriate toy. A firm “no” on its own rarely gets the message across at this age.
What to avoid:
Hard bones or antlers, which can crack sensitive puppy teeth
Frozen solid items like ice cubes, which are too harsh on sore gums
Small objects that could become a choking hazard
Human teething gels, particularly anything containing xylitol, which is toxic to dogs
With the right puppy teething remedies to hand and a little consistency, this phase is genuinely manageable — for your puppy and for your home.
When puppy teething symptoms need a vet check
Most puppy teething symptoms are completely normal, and the vast majority of what you’ll see at home doesn’t need anything more than patience and a good chew toy.
A little blood on a toy? Perfectly expected. The odd wobbly or missing tooth? All part of it. Mild drooling, pink-tinged gums, and a puppy who’s grumpier than usual during peak teething weeks are nothing to panic about.
That said, a few signs are worth watching more closely:
Gums that look very swollen, deeply red, or are bleeding heavily and not settling
A baby tooth that hasn’t fallen out after the adult tooth has already come through
Persistent refusal to eat, even soft or wet food
Breath that smells genuinely foul — not just normal puppy breath, but sharp or rotten
Lethargy, a fever, or anything else that makes your puppy seem off in a general way
If one of these pops up, give it a day and see whether things settle. If they don’t, trust your gut and call your vet. You know your puppy better than anyone.
For everything else, the right support and a few good chews will carry you both through. Just getting started with a new pup? Our guide to bringing a puppy home covers those early weeks brilliantly.
Finding the best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs is genuinely worth getting right, because a bed that works for a Spaniel simply will not cut it for a Golden Retriever or a Great Dane. In this guide, we cover everything that actually matters: foam depth, washability, durability for heavy sprawlers, and what changes when your dog gets older and slower to get up. Whether you are shopping on a budget or looking for a long-term investment for a senior dog, we have broken it all down so you can find the right fit for your specific dog.
Best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs: how to choose the right one
Large dogs put a lot through their joints every single day, and a flat cushion just doesn't cut it once you've got a Labrador, a Golden Retriever, or a Great Dane settling in for a long sleep. The best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs do something genuinely different: they use high-density foam to distribute your dog's body weight evenly, take the pressure off hips, elbows, and shoulders, and help muscles recover properly between walks.
Before you start comparing products, it helps to know what actually matters. Foam quality is the big one. Look for a solid memory foam or high-resilience foam base of at least four inches — anything thinner and a heavier dog will compress straight through it. Size matters just as much. Your dog should be able to stretch out fully without a limb dangling off the edge, so measure them before you buy.
Cover washability is easy to overlook until it suddenly isn't. For big dogs, a removable machine-washable cover isn't a bonus — it's a basic requirement. Think muddy paws after a wet walk, moulting season, the occasional drool patch. You'll be glad it zips off.
It's also worth thinking about your dog's age and how they sleep. A younger dog who sprawls and digs needs something durable and low-sided. A senior dog with stiff joints needs a bed that's easy to step into and offers deeper support.
Best all-round orthopedic beds for big dogs who need everyday support
When you live with a big dog who drops onto their bed at the end of the day with a dramatic sigh, the filling inside really matters. The best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs do more than look plush. They need to support heavier bodies evenly, hold their shape over time, and be easy to keep clean after muddy walks, shedding season, and everyday life.
Slumba Orthopaedic Dog Mattress by Lords & Labradors — This is the one we’d point most pet parents towards for dependable everyday comfort, especially if your dog is older, heavy-set, or simply loves stretching right out. The Slumba Orthopaedic Dog Mattress has deep supportive foam that helps spread weight more evenly, so there’s less chance of hips and shoulders dipping awkwardly into the bed. It also has a removable washable cover, which is a genuine win if your dog brings half the garden back indoors.
High-sided memory foam beds — A lovely option for dogs who like a bit of structure around them or always use the edge of the bed as a pillow. For an orthopedic dog bed for large dogs, look for sturdy bolsters, a non-slip base, and enough foam depth to stop the bed feeling flat under a heavier frame.
Flat orthopedic mattress styles — These are often the best dog beds for large dogs who sprawl, sleep hot, or don’t want to climb over raised sides. A simple mattress shape also fits nicely in open spaces like kitchens, utility rooms, or beside your bed.
For larger dogs, many pet parents find 4 inches or more of supportive foam offers better everyday comfort.
What makes these styles such strong all-rounders is the balance of comfort, support, and practicality. For nightly use, that’s what really counts.
Best orthopedic beds for senior dogs and dogs with stiff joints
Older dogs, and dogs living with arthritis or joint stiffness, need more than just a soft place to lie down. The best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs in this category deliver deeper pressure relief, foam support that holds its shape overnight, and a low step-in height that lets a stiff dog settle without struggling on the way down.
When choosing for a senior or joint-compromised large dog, look for:
High-density memory foam of at least 4 inches to properly support heavier body weight
A waterproof inner liner, especially useful if your dog is older and occasionally caught short
Bolster edges that support the head and neck once they finally relax into sleep
A non-slip base to keep the bed stable on hard floors when they're getting in and out
A low or open entry point so there's no barrier to step over
The three designs that tend to work best here are memory foam mattress beds, bolster-surround beds, and raised ortho frames. Flat mattress beds give full-body contact and suit dogs who love to stretch right out. Raised frames keep a dog off cold floors, though they work better for dogs who still move fairly easily. For large dogs that shift position through the night and need something to lean into, a bolster-surround bed often comes out on top. Our square bolster dog beds are a strong pick here, offering wraparound support that genuinely helps big dogs feel settled rather than just parked somewhere soft.
If your dog is showing early signs of stiffness, getting the right bed in place sooner rather than later is one of the simplest things you can do for their long-term comfort.
Best durable orthopedic beds for large breeds that love to sprawl or dig
Some large dogs treat a bed like part of their settling ritual: a few tight circles, a good scratch, then a full-body flop. If that sounds familiar, the best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs need to do more than feel comfortable on day one. They need to cope with daily wear and still keep their shape.
Feature
Why It Matters
What to Look For
Tough outer fabric
Helps the bed stand up to scratching, digging, and repeated pawing
Canvas, durable microfibre, or other hard-wearing fabrics
Removable washable cover
Makes muddy paws, moulting season, and the odd accident much easier to manage
A cover that zips off easily and can go in the wash
Supportive foam base
Gives bigger dogs steadier joint support and is less likely to flatten quickly
A thick, structured base that feels resilient
Non-slip bottom
Stops the bed sliding while your dog circles or climbs in
Textured or grippy underside
A few practical tips help when choosing a large dog bed for joint support:
If your dog sprawls right to the edges, an extra large orthopedic dog bed gives them room without hanging off the sides
Raised edges can be handy for dogs who like to lean or rest their chin, but the centre should still feel stable and supportive
A washable cover is worth its weight in gold if your dog sheds heavily or loves the garden
Be cautious with beds labelled “orthopaedic” if they rely mostly on soft fill rather than a proper foam base
If you like the cosy box-bed style, the Lords & Labradors Essentials Plush Box Bed is a useful one to compare against your checklist, especially if you want something practical, snug, and easy to live with day to day.
Best orthopedic beds by budget and value for large dogs
Price matters, but with the best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs, value is really about how well the bed suits your dog’s stage of life. A younger, healthy Labrador who flops down after a muddy walk may be perfectly happy on a well-made large dog bed for joint support with sturdy filling and a washable cover. An older giant breed who’s slower to get up usually benefits from thicker, denser foam that holds its shape night after night.
Budget-Smart Picks
Premium Investment Picks
Price Range
£60–£120
£130–£250+
Foam Type
Supportive standard foam
High-density memory foam
Ideal Dog Size/Age
Young adults, growing large breeds
Seniors, giant breeds, dogs over 32kg
Best Use Case
Everyday comfort, guest bed, younger dog
Ongoing joint support, stiffness, recovery
It’s usually worth spending more if your dog:
is older and seems stiff after naps
is a giant breed putting lots of weight on the bed every day
has arthritis, hip issues, or reduced mobility
needs a bed that won’t flatten too quickly
If your dog is still growing, or just needs a comfortable everyday spot, a simpler orthopedic dog bed for large dogs can be the smarter buy. But if you’re looking for longer-lasting support, especially for a big dog who sleeps deeply and spends hours in bed, premium foam often earns its keep. You can browse Lords & Labradors’ luxury dog beds collection if you want to compare more supportive, extra large options.
How to pick the best orthopedic bed for your large dog
The right bed really does come down to knowing your dog — their size, how they sleep, and where they are in life.
For younger large breeds who just need reliable everyday support, a quality memory foam dog bed with a washable cover is usually the sweet spot. Good cushioning, easy to keep clean, no unnecessary fuss.
Older dogs, or those managing arthritis, stiff joints, or post-surgery recovery, need a bit more thought. Deeper foam, a lower entry point, and bolster sides they can actually lean into all make a real difference. Senior dogs tend to sleep longer and heavier, so that extra support earns its keep quickly.
If your dog is a sprawler, a digger, or just reliably hard on everything they own, durability matters as much as foam quality. Look for reinforced covers and a dense base layer that holds its shape over months of use, not just the first few weeks.
On budget, spending a little more upfront on an extra large orthopedic dog bed almost always makes more sense than replacing a cheaper one every year. A good bed can genuinely grow with your dog's needs as they age.
Ultimately, the best orthopedic dog beds for large dogs are the ones that fit your specific dog — their weight, their sleep style, their life stage. That combination will always matter more than any single feature on a label.
If you have ever looked down at your hands after a play session and wondered why puppies bite so much, the good news is that you are dealing with one of the most normal things a puppy can do. In this article we cover the real reasons behind all that mouthing and nipping, how to teach your puppy to be gentler, and the simplest ways to redirect their energy to something more appropriate. We also help you recognise the moments when a little extra support from a vet or trainer might be worth reaching for.
Why puppies bite so much in the first place
If your puppy seems to bite everything and everyone in sight, you are not alone — and your puppy is not broken. Biting and mouthing are completely normal parts of early development, and once you understand why it happens, the whole thing feels a lot less stressful.
The simplest way to think about it: a puppy’s mouth is their hands. Before they can explore, play, or communicate in any other way, they use their teeth. That table leg, your favourite jumper, your fingers at 7am before you’ve even had a coffee. All completely fair game as far as they’re concerned.
A few things drive all that mouthing. Teething is a big one. Between roughly three and six months old, puppies are cutting new teeth, and chewing brings real relief from the discomfort. Then there’s play. Puppies learn how to interact through rough and tumble with their littermates, and they naturally bring that same energy into life with you. They’re also figuring out how hard they can actually bite, a process known as bite inhibition. When a sibling yelps and backs away, a puppy learns that biting too hard ends the fun. It’s a genuinely important life skill, and they need the chance to practise it.
It’s also worth saying plainly: a puppy who bites a lot is not naughty or aggressive. They’re being a puppy, doing exactly what puppies are built to do at this stage.
Understanding that is half the battle. The other half is making sure they have the right things to chew, play with, and explore from the very beginning.
Teething, play, and overstimulation: the most common triggers
Most owners asking why puppies bite so much will find the answer sitting in one of three places: teething discomfort, play instinct, or a puppy who has simply had too much going on. Once you know which trigger you’re dealing with, the behaviour starts to make a lot more sense.
Common triggers to watch for:
Evening zoomies followed by frantic nipping — an overtired puppy loses self-control fast, just like a toddler past their bedtime
Mouthing during tug or fetch games — play drive kicks in and your hands become part of the fun
Nibbling after a busy socialisation session — too much stimulation leaves puppies wired and struggling to settle
Chewing fingers and furniture around 12 to 20 weeks — incoming adult teeth cause real discomfort, and puppies chew to relieve it
Nipping when you reach down to stroke them — excitement and touch combine into a grabby, mouthy moment
Biting during training sessions that run too long — concentration runs out and frustration takes over
Worth knowing: Puppies start losing their baby teeth from around 12 weeks, with most adult teeth coming through between 12 and 24 weeks. This is one of the most intense periods for puppy teething, and it often explains why your puppy seems to be nipping constantly at this stage.
Recognising these trigger moments is genuinely half the battle when it comes to how to stop puppy biting. The behaviour is completely normal at this age and usually peaks before gradually fading as your puppy matures. Keeping a good selection of puppy toys within easy reach means you can redirect quickly the moment you spot a trigger building — before teeth find your hands instead.
How to teach bite inhibition without upsetting your puppy
Bite inhibition sounds technical, but it really just means teaching your puppy that human skin is off-limits — and it is absolutely something they can learn. Understanding why puppies bite so much makes this easier, because you know it is not bad behaviour, just communication. Calm, consistent training works brilliantly here, with no raised voices or startled pups required.
Stop play the moment teeth touch skin. Go completely still and quiet. Avoid pulling your hand away sharply, as that can actually make the whole thing more exciting for your puppy.
Use a simple, neutral cue like “ouch” or “too much” in a calm, flat tone. You are not telling them off, just letting them know the fun has paused.
Redirect to a chew toy within a few seconds. Offer it calmly and let your puppy settle into it. This gives them something appropriate to sink their teeth into.
Reward gentle mouthing or soft contact with quiet praise or a small treat. You are reinforcing what you do want, not just reacting to what you do not.
Keep it consistent across the whole household. Every person, every time.
A quick note on consistency: Mixed signals from different family members are one of the most common reasons puppy biting stages feel like they drag on. If one person lets the puppy mouth their hands during a play session, the lesson starts to unravel. Everyone needs to follow the same approach.
The goal is never punishment. It is clear, kind communication. When you understand why puppies bite, you can respond in a way that works with how they naturally learn — and that makes the whole process faster and far less stressful for everyone involved.
What to do instead: redirecting to toys and setting your puppy up for success
Once you understand why puppies bite so much, the solution gets a lot clearer: they need something better to sink their teeth into. Redirection is one of the most effective tools you have, and with a little consistency, it genuinely works.
Swap immediately, not eventually. The moment teeth touch skin or clothing, calmly remove your hand and offer a toy instead. No drama, no delay. The swap itself is the lesson.
Use cooling chews for teething relief. During a heavy teething stage, a chilled rubber chew can make a real difference. Pop it in the freezer for an hour before play and let the cold do the soothing work.
Reach for the right toy. Lords & Labradors puppy toys are designed with teething puppies in mind, with textures and resistance that actually satisfy the urge to gnaw. A toy that feels good to chew is one that gets used.
Keep play sessions structured. Short, calm sessions are your friend. Overstimulation turns even the gentlest puppies mouthy, so watch for the signs and wind things down before they tip over the edge.
Build in calm-down breaks. If your puppy is too fired up to redirect, a quiet pause in their crate or pen gives them a chance to reset.
Every redirect counts: puppies learn through repetition, so the more consistently you make the swap, the faster it sticks.
Setting your puppy up for success really comes down to managing their environment and energy before biting becomes the default outlet. Keep appropriate chews within easy reach, keep play sessions manageable, and trust that small, consistent moments genuinely add up.
When normal mouthing becomes a problem worth getting help for
Most puppy biting is completely normal, and with consistency, it does ease off. But it’s worth pausing every now and then to ask whether something more might be going on.
If your puppy’s biting still feels relentless after weeks of calm, consistent redirection, it’s worth talking to a qualified trainer. The same applies if bites are regularly hard and don’t seem connected to play, if your puppy snaps when anyone goes near their food, toys, or bed, or if their reactions feel more fearful than excited. None of that makes them a bad puppy. It just means you’d both benefit from a little extra support.
Pain is worth considering too. Teething can make puppies genuinely sore and out of sorts, and some pups bite more simply because they’re uncomfortable. If your puppy seems distressed beyond the usual nipping and wriggling, a quick vet check is a sensible place to start.
One of the most useful things you can do in the meantime is learn to read what your puppy is telling you before the biting even begins. Spotting the early signals makes it so much easier to respond well. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a really helpful starting point.
And here’s the reassuring bit: for the vast majority of puppies, the biting does pass. With patience, the right toys, and a bit of guidance, most pups grow into gentle, settled dogs who’ve figured out how to use their mouths kindly.
At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog. Luxury dog crates...
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At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog.
Luxury dog crates
All our deluxe dog crates are made from pet-safe metal and feature removable trays to make them practical and super easy to clean. With sizes ranging from small to XXL, there’s a dog crate set to suit all breeds. Crates are essential when it comes to house training your new puppy. We always suggest buying a larger size dog crate and bed for your puppy so they can grow into it, saving you from having to purchase a new crate when they’re older.
Luxury crate bedding
Our luxury bedding is hand-crafted and designed to the highest quality, appearing both practical and stylish. Bumpers sit around the edge of the crate cushion to provide a super-soft wall of comfort for your pooch. All our bumpers and cushions feature waterproof linings in case of any accidents. It’s recommended to choose a dog crate with a cover – they’ll provide your draughty, bare cage with a fresh new look and offer some privacy for your dog too. They’re particularly great for helping young puppies settle into their night-time routines and offer nervous dogs an extra feeling of security.
Purchase your dog crate set online today
Treat your four-legged friend to one of our stylish dog crate, cover, bedding and bumper sets by browsing our online range today. If you’re struggling to decide which one would be perfect for your pooch, contact our team today who will be more than happy to help. You’ll have 28 days to return your product if you’re unhappy with it for any reason. Our Lords & Labradors items also come with a 365-day quality guarantee, so it’s easy to see why we’ve received so many positive reviews. We also offer free delivery on all orders over £75. Browse the range and order your dog crate set today.
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