18.01.24 January 18, 2024 Health

Walking The Dog In Winter: Tips For The Colder Months

As the winter chill settles in, dog owners face the perennial question: When is it too cold to walk your dog? The colder months bring unique challenges for both pets and their owners, but with the right preparation, winter walks can still be an enjoyable and beneficial activity for both. 1. Safe Temperature to Walk Your Dog in Winter Understanding the safe temperature to walk your dog in winter is crucial. While individual tolerance varies by breed and size, a general guideline is to avoid walks when temperatures drop below -6.7°C with wind chill. Smaller or short-haired breeds may require additional protection at higher temperatures. For a more detailed guide check out our blog post on when is it too cold to walk your dog. 2. How Long Can You Walk a Dog in Cold Weather? Just as important as whether you head out is how long you stay out. So, how long can you walk a dog in cold weather? As a rule of thumb, in temperatures above -4°C most healthy medium and large dogs are comfortable for around 30 minutes, while smaller breeds should be limited to about 20 minutes. Once the mercury drops below freezing, shorten walks further and keep the pace brisk so your dog stays warm through movement rather than standing around. Remember that wind chill, rain and snow can make it feel far colder than the thermometer suggests, and puppies, senior dogs and short-coated breeds will feel it sooner. Watch your dog rather than the clock: shivering, a hunched posture, lifting paws off the ground or refusing to walk on are all signs it’s time to head home. Two or three shorter outings are far better than one long trek in the cold – and on truly bitter days, indoor enrichment like a snuffle mat or stuffed treat toy can burn just as much energy as a walk. 3. How to Keep Your Dog Warm on Winter Walks - Winter Dog Walking Essentials: Invest in essential winter gear for your furry friend. Insulated dog jackets, booties, and jumpers can provide an extra layer of warmth, especially for dogs sensitive to the cold. Ensure that your dog's attire is comfortable and does not impede movement. We have a great range of winter dog coats here at L&L, all designed to keep your furry friends warm on their winter adventures. 4. Dog Walking Shoes for Winter: Your comfort on your winter dog walks matters too. Invest in quality, insulated, and waterproof shoes or boots. Brands like Columbia, The North Face, and Merrell offer footwear designed for walking in snowy and icy conditions. 5. Dog Walking Gloves for Winter: Your hands also need protection during winter walks. Choose gloves that provide insulation without sacrificing dexterity. Look for waterproof and windproof options to keep your hands warm in chilly conditions. 6. How to Warm Your Dog Up After a Winter Walk In addition to clothing, there are other ways to warm your dog up after a winter walk. Dry your dog's paws and belly thoroughly after walks to prevent ice buildup. We’ve designed our bamboo dog drying range with this in mind; our mitts are great for drying your dog quickly after a walk and the drying coats are perfect for popping on them to warm them back up after a winter walk. And, of course, ensure access to fresh water upon returning home. 7. How to Walk Your Dog in Winter Modify your walking routine to accommodate winter conditions. Consider shorter, more frequent walks to avoid prolonged exposure to the cold. Choose well-lit paths to navigate through the shorter daylight hours. Be cautious of frozen bodies of water and slippery surfaces. Keep your dog on a lead, as winter can bring unfamiliar scents and wildlife may be more active. By adhering to these tips, you can transform your winter walks into enjoyable, safe experiences for both you and your furry companion. With the right gear and precautions, you'll be well-equipped to embrace the crisp air and picturesque landscapes while keeping your dog's well-being a top priority. Winter dog walking can be a delightful adventure with the proper preparation and consideration for your pet's comfort and safety. Shop for all your winter walk essentials here. Frequently Asked Questions Can Dogs Walk in Snow Without Shoes? Yes, most healthy adult dogs can walk in snow without shoes for short periods – their paw pads are tougher than our feet and have their own circulation system to help cope with the cold. That said, snow brings hidden hazards. Ice can ball up between the toes and pull at the fur, compacted snow can hide sharp grit, and rock salt or de-icing chemicals on pavements can burn the pads and are toxic if licked off. For longer snowy walks, or for puppies, seniors and dogs with sensitive paws, booties or a protective paw balm are a sensible precaution. Whether or not your dog wears shoes, always rinse and dry their paws when you get home, checking between the toes for ice, salt and cracks. How Often Should I Walk My Dog in Winter? Your dog still needs daily exercise in winter – aim to keep their normal routine but split it into shorter outings on very cold days. Walking during the warmest, brightest part of the day (usually late morning to early afternoon) makes the outing more comfortable for both of you. Does My Dog Need a Coat in Winter? It depends on the breed. Thick, double-coated breeds like Huskies and Newfoundlands are built for the cold, but small, short-haired, elderly or very young dogs benefit hugely from an insulated coat once temperatures approach freezing. If your dog shivers on walks, that’s a clear sign they need an extra layer.

By Megan Willis

1. Safe Temperature to Walk Your Dog in Winter

Understanding the safe temperature to walk your dog in winter is crucial. While individual tolerance varies by breed and size, a general guideline is to avoid walks when temperatures drop below -6.7°C with wind chill. Smaller or short-haired breeds may require additional protection at higher temperatures. For a more detailed guide check out our blog post on when is it too cold to walk your dog.

2. How Long Can You Walk a Dog in Cold Weather?

Just as important as whether you head out is how long you stay out. So, how long can you walk a dog in cold weather? As a rule of thumb, in temperatures above -4°C most healthy medium and large dogs are comfortable for around 30 minutes, while smaller breeds should be limited to about 20 minutes. Once the mercury drops below freezing, shorten walks further and keep the pace brisk so your dog stays warm through movement rather than standing around.

Remember that wind chill, rain and snow can make it feel far colder than the thermometer suggests, and puppies, senior dogs and short-coated breeds will feel it sooner. Watch your dog rather than the clock: shivering, a hunched posture, lifting paws off the ground or refusing to walk on are all signs it’s time to head home. Two or three shorter outings are far better than one long trek in the cold – and on truly bitter days, indoor enrichment like a snuffle mat or stuffed treat toy can burn just as much energy as a walk.

3. How to Keep Your Dog Warm on Winter Walks - Winter Dog Walking Essentials:

Invest in essential winter gear for your furry friend. Insulated dog jackets, booties, and jumpers can provide an extra layer of warmth, especially for dogs sensitive to the cold. Ensure that your dog's attire is comfortable and does not impede movement. We have a great range of winter dog coats here at L&L, all designed to keep your furry friends warm on their winter adventures.

Brown cocker spaniel and apricot cockapoo wearing orange and green puffer jackets in the winter forest

4. Dog Walking Shoes for Winter:

Your comfort on your winter dog walks matters too. Invest in quality, insulated, and waterproof shoes or boots. Brands like Columbia, The North Face, and Merrell offer footwear designed for walking in snowy and icy conditions.

5. Dog Walking Gloves for Winter:

Your hands also need protection during winter walks. Choose gloves that provide insulation without sacrificing dexterity. Look for waterproof and windproof options to keep your hands warm in chilly conditions.

6. How to Warm Your Dog Up After a Winter Walk

Dalmatian wearing a green dog drying coat after a winter walk

In addition to clothing, there are other ways to warm your dog up after a winter walk. Dry your dog's paws and belly thoroughly after walks to prevent ice buildup. We’ve designed our bamboo dog drying range with this in mind; our mitts are great for drying your dog quickly after a walk and the drying coats are perfect for popping on them to warm them back up after a winter walk. And, of course, ensure access to fresh water upon returning home.

7. How to Walk Your Dog in Winter

Modify your walking routine to accommodate winter conditions. Consider shorter, more frequent walks to avoid prolonged exposure to the cold. Choose well-lit paths to navigate through the shorter daylight hours. Be cautious of frozen bodies of water and slippery surfaces. Keep your dog on a lead, as winter can bring unfamiliar scents and wildlife may be more active.

By adhering to these tips, you can transform your winter walks into enjoyable, safe experiences for both you and your furry companion. With the right gear and precautions, you'll be well-equipped to embrace the crisp air and picturesque landscapes while keeping your dog's well-being a top priority. Winter dog walking can be a delightful adventure with the proper preparation and consideration for your pet's comfort and safety. Shop for all your winter walk essentials here.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can Dogs Walk in Snow Without Shoes?

Yes, most healthy adult dogs can walk in snow without shoes for short periods – their paw pads are tougher than our feet and have their own circulation system to help cope with the cold. That said, snow brings hidden hazards. Ice can ball up between the toes and pull at the fur, compacted snow can hide sharp grit, and rock salt or de-icing chemicals on pavements can burn the pads and are toxic if licked off. For longer snowy walks, or for puppies, seniors and dogs with sensitive paws, booties or a protective paw balm are a sensible precaution. Whether or not your dog wears shoes, always rinse and dry their paws when you get home, checking between the toes for ice, salt and cracks.

How Often Should I Walk My Dog in Winter?

Your dog still needs daily exercise in winter – aim to keep their normal routine but split it into shorter outings on very cold days. Walking during the warmest, brightest part of the day (usually late morning to early afternoon) makes the outing more comfortable for both of you.

Does My Dog Need a Coat in Winter?

It depends on the breed. Thick, double-coated breeds like Huskies and Newfoundlands are built for the cold, but small, short-haired, elderly or very young dogs benefit hugely from an insulated coat once temperatures approach freezing. If your dog shivers on walks, that’s a clear sign they need an extra layer.

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24.08.26 August 24, 2026 Health

What to Do When Your Dog is Reverse Sneezing

That sudden honking, snorting sound your dog makes out of nowhere is enough to stop any pet parent’s heart, but knowing what to do when your dog is reverse sneezing makes all the difference. In this guide, we’ll walk you through why it happens, how to keep both of you calm in the moment, and which signs are worth a call to the vet. We’ll also share some simple changes you can make at home to reduce how often it happens in the first place. What reverse sneezing looks and sounds like in dogs If you’ve ever watched your dog suddenly freeze, stretch their neck forward, and let out a loud, honking snort like they’re trying to inhale and sneeze at the same time, you’ve almost certainly witnessed a reverse sneeze. It sounds alarming. It looks alarming. And if you had no idea what you were watching, panicking is a completely natural response. The reassuring news? Reverse sneezing is usually harmless. It’s not a cough, not a seizure, and not a sign that something is lodged in their throat. Think of it as a reflex, much like a regular sneeze, just working in reverse. Instead of air rushing outward, your dog rapidly pulls air in through their nose, producing that distinctive snorting or honking sound that tends to stop everyone in the room. During an episode, most dogs stand still with their elbows splayed, neck outstretched, and eyes wide open. Some look genuinely distressed, which is hard to watch even when you know what’s happening. The episode itself usually lasts anywhere from a few seconds to around a minute, and the vast majority of dogs bounce back to their normal selves almost immediately. Paying attention to how your dog behaves before and after can tell you a lot. A dog that’s relaxed and happy on either side of the episode is generally nothing to worry about. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language can help you get better at reading those subtle signals. Recognising what reverse sneezing looks and sounds like is honestly half the battle — because once you know, it’s so much easier to stay calm when it happens. Why dogs reverse sneeze in the first place Reverse sneezing is an involuntary reflex, and it usually comes down to something irritating the soft palate, throat, or nasal passages. Think of it like a sneeze in reverse — the body trying to clear an irritant rather than signal that something is seriously wrong. Most dogs will experience it at some point, and for the vast majority, it’s completely normal. Common triggers include: Nasal or throat irritation from dust, pollen, or mould Excitement or over-stimulation, like bounding over to greet you at the door Pulling on the lead, which puts pressure on the throat Eating or drinking too fast Strong scents, household sprays, or air fresheners Sudden changes in temperature or air quality Being a flat-faced (brachycephalic) breed, such as a Pug, French Bulldog, or Cavalier King Charles Spaniel — their shorter airways make them anatomically more prone to episodes Understanding the dog reverse sneezing causes behind an episode really does help in the moment. Once you recognise that the body is simply doing what it needs to do — the same way we might need to cough or clear our throat — it’s much easier to stay calm rather than panic. And calm is exactly what your dog needs from you. The good news is that most episodes pass within seconds to about a minute. One moment your dog is honking away, and the next they’re trotting off like nothing happened. That’s usually all there is to it. What to do in the moment when your dog is reverse sneezing If you’re wondering what to do when your dog is reverse sneezing, the first thing is simple: try not to panic. It can sound dramatic, especially the first time you hear it, but many episodes are brief and pass within 30 seconds to a minute. Your calm really helps. In the moment, focus on gentle comfort: Stay relaxed and speak softly. Your dog will pick up on your energy. A quiet, reassuring voice can help them settle while the episode passes. Gently stroke their throat or chest. Slow, light strokes may encourage a swallow, which can help the spasm ease naturally. Offer a tiny sip of water if they’re settled enough to take it. Not a full bowl, and don’t force it. Sometimes a small swallow is all that’s needed. Move them away from obvious triggers. If they’ve been sniffing dust, pulling on the lead, or sitting near strong smells like candles or cleaning sprays, guide them to a calmer spot with fresher air. A good rule of thumb with reverse sneezing in dogs treatment at home is to keep things quiet, gentle, and low-stress. Most of the time, your job is simply to comfort rather than intervene. What not to do: Don’t put your fingers in your dog’s mouth Don’t hold them down or restrain them forcefully Don’t fuss loudly or crowd them, even if you feel worried Once it’s over, many dogs go straight back to normal as if nothing happened. If your dog’s reverse sneezing symptoms seem to happen often, last longer than usual, or leave them distressed, that’s when it’s sensible to think about dog reverse sneezing causes and whether a vet check is the right next step. When reverse sneezing is worth a vet call Most of the time, reverse sneezing in dogs is completely harmless and passes within seconds. But if you start noticing that episodes are happening more often, or that your dog seems off afterwards, it’s worth paying closer attention. You know your dog better than anyone, so trust that instinct. These are the signs that deserve a vet conversation: Episodes happening multiple times a day, or lasting longer than a minute Your dog seeming distressed, panicked, or wiped out afterwards Nasal discharge, whether clear, cloudy, or discoloured A new cough appearing alongside the reverse sneezing Laboured or noisy breathing between episodes Gums that look pale or slightly blue Lethargy, low energy, or a noticeable dip in appetite An occasional isolated episode is rarely cause for concern. A recurring or worsening pattern is always worth getting checked. When to worry about dog reverse sneezing really comes down to that shift in pattern. A vet can look into common culprits like allergies, a low-grade infection, a foreign body in the nasal passage, or a structural issue affecting the airway. None of these are things you’d pick up at home, but all of them are very treatable when caught early. Even if everything turns out to be fine, you’ll come away with peace of mind, and that’s never wasted. How to reduce reverse sneezing triggers at home Once you understand what sets your dog off, a few small tweaks at home can make a real difference. If your dog tends to pull on the lead and reverse sneezes regularly, switching to a well-fitted harness is one of the easiest wins. Collar pressure on the throat is a surprisingly common trigger, and a harness removes it entirely. Inside, it’s worth thinking about air quality too. Dust little and often, skip the heavily scented candles or plug-in air fresheners, and if you use cleaning sprays, let the room air out before your dog wanders back in. Small habits, but they stack up. Fast eaters are also worth a closer look. Gulping food can irritate the throat and kick off an episode, so a slow feeder bowl or snuffle mat at mealtimes can genuinely help. Beyond that, it’s worth keeping a loose mental note of when episodes happen. After a walk during high pollen season? After a boisterous play session? Spotting a pattern gives you something real to work with, whether that’s adjusting walk times or winding down play more gradually. The reassuring truth is that most dogs live completely happily alongside the occasional reverse sneeze. Now that you know what it looks like, why it happens, and what to do in the moment, you’re already better placed to handle it calmly when it comes. Frequently Asked Questions How to calm down reverse sneezing in dogs? The best way to calm reverse sneezing is to stay relaxed and gently comfort your dog while it passes. Speak softly, stroke their throat or chest, offer a tiny sip of water if they’re settled enough, and move them away from dust, strong smells, or other obvious triggers. When to worry about reverse sneezing? Reverse sneezing is worth worrying about if it becomes frequent, lasts longer than a minute, or your dog seems unwell afterwards. Signs that need a vet call include distress, nasal discharge, a new cough, noisy breathing between episodes, pale or blue gums, lethargy, or a drop in appetite. What triggers reverse sneezing in dogs? Reverse sneezing is usually triggered by irritation in the throat or nasal passages. Common causes include dust, pollen, mould, strong household scents, excitement, pulling on the lead, eating or drinking too fast, temperature changes, and being a flat-faced breed with shorter airways. How long is too long for a dog to reverse a sneeze? Anything lasting longer than about a minute is a sensible point to call your vet. Most reverse sneezing episodes pass within a few seconds to around a minute, and dogs usually seem completely normal again straight afterwards.

By Adele Busby
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19.08.26 August 19, 2026 Health

How to Cut Dog Nails That Are Black

Trimming black dog nails can feel like a guessing game, but it really does not have to be. This guide walks you through how to cut dog nails that are black with confidence, covering everything from spotting the quick before you snip to choosing the right tools, handling the odd nick along the way, and building a calmer routine over time. Whether you are starting from scratch or just looking to feel less uncertain with the clippers, there is something here to help you and your dog get through nail day in one piece. How to Tell Where the Quick Is on Black Dog Nails The quick is the living core of your dog’s nail. It contains blood vessels and nerves, so if you catch it with the clippers, it bleeds and stings — not ideal for anyone involved. With light-coloured nails, you can usually spot it as a soft pink shadow running through the centre, which makes the whole job much more straightforward. With black nails, that shadow disappears completely, and that’s exactly why so many pet parents feel stuck before they’ve even picked up the clippers. The good news? You don’t have to guess. You just need to slow down and read a few reliable clues. Start by shining a small torch or your phone’s flashlight through the nail from underneath. On finer nails, this can reveal the quick as a darker oval shape within the nail. It won’t work for every dog, but it takes about three seconds to try and it’s genuinely useful when it does. If the light doesn’t show much, nail texture becomes your next guide. Trim a tiny sliver from the tip and look at the cut surface. At first it’ll appear solid and chalky, white or grey all the way through. That’s safe ground. Keep taking small slivers, checking each time, and eventually the centre will shift. It might look darker, almost black, or you’ll notice a small grey dot appearing in the middle. That dot is your cue to stop. You’re getting close to the quick. Nail shape tells you something before you even make a cut, too. Most dog nails curve downward and taper toward the tip, and the quick follows that same curve. It typically sits further back than you’d expect, so if the nail has a definite hook at the end, trimming just that hooked portion is usually where you want to start. One last thing: a calm dog makes all of this much easier. When they’re tense and pulling away, it’s harder to look closely and work carefully. Keeping an eye on your dog’s body language throughout the trim helps you spot early signs of stress before things unravel. The Tools That Make Black Nail Trims Safer and Calmer Having the right tools ready before you start makes a real difference when you’re working with black nails. They help you make smaller, more controlled cuts, reduce the chance of catching the quick off guard, and keep the whole experience calmer for your dog from the very first snip. Sharp scissor-style or guillotine clippers. Blunt clippers crush rather than cut cleanly, which is uncomfortable for your dog and makes it much harder to read the cut surface. Sharp blades give you a clean edge — exactly what you need when taking black nails back little by little. A nail grinder. If clippers feel a bit too all-or-nothing, a grinder lets you remove nail gradually and gives you much finer control over how much you take off. Many dogs also find the sensation less startling than a sudden snap. A small flashlight or phone torch. Holding a light against the top of the nail can help you spot the quick’s shadow before you cut. It doesn’t work on every dog, but it takes seconds to try and is well worth doing. Styptic powder. Have this within arm’s reach before you begin. If you nick the quick, it works fast — and knowing it’s right there helps you stay calm rather than scrambling. High-value treats. Something your dog doesn’t get at any other time, like a small cube of cheese or a bit of cooked chicken, makes the session feel worthwhile for them and keeps their focus in the right place. A non-slip mat or towel. This gives your dog something to grip, helps them feel a little more settled, and means less wriggling for you to work around. What is styptic powder? It stops minor bleeding almost instantly if you nick the quick. It’s a staple in any dog nail trimming kit, so always have it to hand before you start. None of these are hard to find, and together they genuinely change how confident you feel tackling black nails at home. If you’re building out your grooming kit, you’ll find plenty of dog care essentials over at Lords and Labradors. Good preparation really is the best dog nail trimming tip there is — have everything ready before your dog sits down, and you’re already off to a better start. A Step-by-Step Way to Cut Black Dog Nails Without Hitting the Quick Once you understand how to read the nail, the actual cutting becomes far less daunting. Trimming black dog nails safely is really about slowing down, taking tiny slices, and trusting what you see rather than guessing where to stop. Settle your dog before you pick up the clippers. Sit on the floor together, offer a few treats, and let them sniff the clippers. A calm start makes everything that follows easier. Find a comfortable position for you both. Some dogs are happy lying on their side while you kneel beside them. Others prefer sitting upright with a paw gently lifted. Work with your dog rather than forcing a hold that makes them tense. Press the toe pad gently to extend one nail at a time. This gives you a clear view and keeps the paw steady without gripping so tight that your dog pulls away. Start with a small snip at a slight angle. Take just the very tip off. You’re not trying to do it all in one go — you’re just getting started. Check the cut surface before you snip again. Hold the nail up to the light and look at the cross-section. A chalky white or grey centre means you’re well away from the quick and safe to continue. Keep going in tiny increments, checking every time. As you get closer, the centre of the nail will start to shift. The moment you see a darker grey or black dot beginning to appear in the middle, stop on that nail. That dot is the quick showing itself, and one slice further could cause real discomfort. Reward your dog between nails, not just at the end. A treat after each one keeps things positive and gives your dog a natural moment to breathe and reset. Stop if your dog tells you they’ve had enough. Panting, pulling the paw away, or going rigid are all signs to pause — even if you’ve only done two nails. Pushing through rarely ends well. Split the session across days if that’s what your dog needs. Front paws today, back paws tomorrow. There’s no rule that says all twenty nails have to happen at once, and honestly, your dog will thank you for it. A note on the black dog nail quick: In lighter nails, the quick shows up as a visible pink line running through the centre. In black nails, you simply can’t see it from the outside, which is why reading the cross-section matters so much. A small dark dot or a soft pale ring appearing in the centre after a snip is your signal to stop. That’s the quick beginning to surface, and going any further risks pain and bleeding. The whole point of learning how to cut dog nails that are black is building confidence through small wins, not racing to finish. Three nails done calmly is genuinely better than twenty done with your dog stressed and wriggling. If your dog tends to find grooming difficult, it’s worth thinking about how you handle other anxious moments together — the same approach that helps keep dogs calm during stressful situations like fireworks applies just as well here. What to Do if You Nick the Quick Nicking the quick when you’re learning how to cut dog nails that are black happens to almost every pet parent at some point. It looks more dramatic than it is — a small dark red bleed from the tip of the nail — and it tends to startle you far more than it hurts your dog. Take a breath. You’ve got this. Here’s exactly what to do: Stop trimming and set the clippers down. Apply styptic powder or cornstarch directly to the nail tip. Hold gentle pressure with a clean cloth or your finger for 30 to 60 seconds. Keep your dog calm and still with a quiet voice and a soft, steady touch. Once the bleeding slows, check the nail before letting your dog wander off. Styptic powder is a clotting agent that stops bleeding quickly — and it’s the single most useful thing to have nearby during any nail trim. Purdue University’s veterinary guidance specifically recommends that you keep styptic powder available when clipping a pet’s nails to stop bleeding if you clip too short. Pick some up before your next session if you don’t already have it. For aftercare, keep the paw clean and dry for the rest of the day. Avoid rough-surface walks for 24 hours, and check back on the nail over the next day or so for any redness or swelling. If the bleeding hasn’t slowed within 5 to 10 minutes, or your dog seems to be in genuine pain rather than just briefly unsettled, call your vet. That’s the sensible thing to do — not a sign that anything has gone seriously wrong. How to Make Nail Trims Easier Next Time The biggest dog nail trimming tip anyone can give you? Trim more often. It sounds almost too simple, but when you’re working out how to cut dog nails that are black, consistency matters just as much as technique. Dogs who seem completely impossible to trim can surprise you once a calm routine clicks into place. Trim every 3 to 4 weeks. Regular sessions keep nails at a manageable length and make each one shorter and less stressful — for both of you. Reward after every single nail. Use something your dog genuinely loves, like a small piece of cheese or chicken, and give it the moment you finish each nail rather than saving it until the end. Handle paws between sessions. A minute or two of gentle paw touching while you’re watching TV or winding down costs nothing and builds real tolerance without any pressure attached. Take a little, more often. Small snips every few weeks feel far less daunting than trying to tackle seriously overgrown nails after a long gap — and you’ll stay well clear of the quick. Keep the setup consistent. Same spot, same time of day, same calm energy. Dogs read routine surprisingly well, and familiarity genuinely helps settle nerves. Start puppies early. Even pretend trims with no cutting involved help young dogs learn that paw handling is completely normal. Pro tip: Trimming a tiny amount every 2 to 3 weeks is far safer than waiting until nails are overgrown — especially when you’re navigating the black dog nail quick. Think of each session as a training opportunity rather than a chore to get through. Dogs who once wriggled, whined, or flatly refused can absolutely learn to sit calmly for a trim. It just takes consistency, patience, and a well-stocked treat supply. When to Ask a Groomer or Vet for Help Sometimes, the most caring thing you can do is hand the clippers to someone else. If you have worked through how to cut dog nails that are black and still feel uncertain, that is completely fine. Some dogs have nails that are genuinely thick, curved, or difficult to read, even for owners who have been doing this for years. Others simply will not settle, no matter how many treats you offer or how carefully you have set the scene. Professional groomers trim nails every single day. They know how to read the nail, position the dog, and work with a calm confidence that only comes with real experience. Booking a session or two is not admitting defeat. It is a smart way to watch someone skilled work up close, ask questions, and pick up the kind of practical knowledge that no article can fully replace. Your vet is equally worth considering, especially if your dog has unusually thick nails, any history of paw injuries, or anxiety that makes handling genuinely difficult. They can trim safely and point you toward ways to make future sessions less stressful for your dog and for you. The most important shift is this: professional help is a starting point, not a last resort. Once your dog has had a calm, positive experience with someone who knows exactly what they are doing, you will often find that the next trim at home feels a little easier too. Frequently Asked Questions How do you know where the quick is on black dog nails? You find the quick on black dog nails by trimming tiny slivers and checking the cut surface each time. A chalky white or grey centre is usually safe; when you start to see a darker dot or change in the middle, stop. A torch underneath the nail can sometimes help too. Can I trim my dog’s black nails? Yes, you can trim your dog’s black nails if you go slowly and take very small amounts at a time. The safest approach is to remove the hooked tip first, check the cut surface after every snip, and stop as soon as you see a darker centre appearing. How do you trim severely overgrown dog nails? Trim severely overgrown dog nails by taking off only a little at a time and spreading the work over multiple sessions if needed. Tiny, regular trims every 2 to 4 weeks are safer than one big cut, especially with black nails, because they help you avoid catching the quick.

By Adele Busby
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29.09.26 September 29, 2026 Owning a Dog

Fleece vs Waterproof Dog Coats: Which Do You Need And When?

Choosing between a fleece vs waterproof dog coat sounds simple until you’re standing in the hallway at 7am, lead in hand, trying to remember whether last night’s forecast said drizzle or just cold. Both coats have a real job to do, but they do very different things, and picking the wrong one can leave your dog uncomfortable before you’ve even reached the end of the street. This guide walks you through what each coat does best, when to reach for which, and how to layer them together when British weather refuses to make up its mind. Fleece or waterproof dog coat: what’s the real difference? When it comes to keeping your dog comfortable on a walk, fleece and waterproof coats do very different jobs. Picking the wrong one can leave your dog shivering, sodden, or frustratingly both. A fleece dog coat is built for warmth. It traps body heat close to the skin, making it ideal for crisp autumn mornings or cool dry evenings when the air has a bite but the ground is still firm underfoot. Think of it as a cosy jumper your dog actually wants to wear. Fleece breathes well, moves with your dog, and feels soft against the skin — all of which matters if your dog is the type to stage a protest the moment you reach for their coat. Short-coated breeds like whippets, greyhounds, and Italian Greyhounds often rely on fleece as their first line of defence against the cold. A waterproof dog jacket works differently. It’s designed to block the elements: rain, wind, and the inevitable muddy splashback from a well-timed puddle. What it won’t necessarily do is keep your dog warm. That’s a distinction that often gets missed when people are shopping for a dog coat for winter, and it’s worth holding onto as you read through this article. So when you’re weighing up a fleece vs waterproof dog coat, the real question isn’t which one is better. It’s which one your dog actually needs for the walk you’re about to take. And before you get to that, it’s worth making sure the fit is right too — because even the best coat won’t do much if it doesn’t suit your dog’s shape. Our fitting guide is a good place to start. Warmth vs weather protection: which one does your dog actually need? The answer to the fleece vs waterproof dog coat debate really comes down to one simple question: what are you actually protecting your dog from? Fleece is all about warmth, keeping your dog cosy on those crisp, dry days when the cold is the only enemy. A waterproof dog jacket is built for something different entirely — rain, wind, and the kind of relentless muddy-field situations that British weather seems to specialise in. Fleece Dog Coat Waterproof Dog Jacket Best conditions Dry, cold weather Rain, wind, wet ground Primary function Insulation and warmth Weather and moisture protection Ideal dog type Thin-coated, elderly, or small dogs Active dogs, short-haired breeds, all-weather walkers Activity level Gentle walks, indoor lounging High-energy walks, muddy adventures Wet weather performance Poor — absorbs moisture Excellent — repels water Not sure which camp your dog falls into? These pointers help: Choose fleece if your dog has a fine or short coat and shivers through dry winter mornings Choose fleece if they’re older or less active and need gentle, comfortable warmth Choose waterproof if your walks regularly take you through fields, parks, or anywhere rain isn’t a surprise Choose waterproof if your dog runs hard and gets warm easily, but still needs cover when the heavens open Plenty of dogs genuinely need both, with owners rotating between them depending on the season or whatever the forecast is doing. If you want to think through the bigger picture of cold-weather care, our guide to keeping your dog warm in winter is well worth a read. When fleece works best: dry cold days, indoor lounging, and layering Fleece dog coats really come into their own when the weather is cold but dry. Think crisp, frosty morning walks where the ground is firm underfoot and the sky is clear — no rain in sight, just that sharp winter chill that makes you wish you’d grabbed an extra layer. In the fleece vs waterproof dog coat debate, this is exactly where fleece takes the lead. Fleece is the stronger choice in these situations: Dry, cold weather walks where there’s no rain or wet ground to contend with Indoor lounging and post-walk recovery, especially for dogs that come in from the cold and need to warm up gently Older or arthritic dogs who feel the drop in temperature more deeply and benefit from consistent, reliable warmth Short-coated or lean breeds like Greyhounds, Whippets, and Boxers, who have very little natural insulation to rely on Layering under a waterproof shell coat for extra warmth on cold, wet winter days Layering tip: Fleece works by trapping your dog’s body heat close to them. Add a waterproof dog jacket on top and you’ve covered all bases — warmth and weather protection working together rather than fighting for the job. As a standalone coat, fleece is brilliant on dry cold days. The moment rain, sleet, or mud appears, though, it needs a waterproof layer over it to stay effective. If you’re still working out which combination suits your dog best, our guide to the best winter dog coats is a great place to continue. When waterproof is the better pick: rain, wind, and messy British weather When it comes to the fleece vs waterproof dog coat question, British weather has a habit of answering it for you. Rain rolls in without warning, wind appears from nowhere, and a walk that started under blue skies can end in a full-on drizzle before you’ve reached the car park. On those days, a waterproof coat does things a fleece simply can’t. Here’s where a waterproof dog jacket pulls ahead: Repels rain on contact so your dog’s fur stays dry underneath, even in a proper downpour Blocks wind chill that a fleece lets straight through, keeping your dog genuinely comfortable rather than just covered Protects the harness and chest area from soaking through, which you’ll only fully appreciate the first time you’re wrestling with a drenched harness at the boot Cuts post-walk drying time significantly because the coat takes the hit so your dog’s fur doesn’t have to Keeps mud and mess contained so a quick wipe-down is usually enough, no bath required Means a drier car seat on the way home, which anyone who’s sat next to a soaking Spaniel will understand immediately Heavy Rain Wind Chill Post-Walk Drying Time Fleece Poor Poor Poor Waterproof Excellent Good Excellent For dogs who refuse to let a grey sky get in the way of a good walk (most of them, in our experience), a waterproof coat is the smarter, more practical choice. Browse the full waterproof dog coats range to find the right fit for your dog’s size, breed, and daily adventures. Can you layer fleece and waterproof together? Yes, you can absolutely layer a fleece under a waterproof dog coat, and in the right conditions it works better than either coat on its own. The fleece adds warmth close to the body while the waterproof jacket handles the rain and wind, keeping your dog comfortable even when the weather turns properly grim. How to layer well: Choose a slim-fitting fleece that sits close to your dog’s body without bunching underneath the outer layer Make sure the waterproof jacket fits over the fleece without pinching at the chest, belly, or shoulders Check that your dog can move freely through the front legs and chest — restriction here is usually the first sign that sizing is off Watch for panting, restlessness, or sudden stopping during the walk, as these can signal overheating even in cold weather If your dog runs hot or is a high-energy breed, opt for a thinner fleece or keep the layering window short When does layering actually make sense? Temperatures below 5°C combined with rain, wind, or both. If it is just cold and dry, a fleece on its own is usually enough. The fleece vs waterproof dog coat decision does not always have to be either/or. On the coldest, wettest days, layering genuinely gives you the best of both worlds. That said, if you would rather keep things simple, a well-made insulated waterproof dog jacket can handle most conditions in a single layer — no doubling up required. How to choose the right coat for your dog this season Once you know what each coat does, choosing between them gets a lot easier. The real question is what your dog actually faces on a typical walk. If your winters are mostly dry and cold, a fleece dog coat is often all you need. It keeps smaller dogs and short-coated breeds warm without any fuss, and it’s light enough to grab on your way out the door. Think Whippets, Greyhounds, Miniature Pinschers — any dog that starts shivering the moment the temperature dips. If you’re regularly walking through drizzle, mud, and wind (which, let’s be honest, is most of a British autumn and winter), a waterproof dog jacket earns its keep quickly. It keeps your dog dry from the outside in, which matters most on longer walks when a soaked coat starts to chill them right through. For most dogs across most seasons, having both is genuinely worth it. Reach for the fleece on crisp dry days, or use it as a warm base layer underneath, then switch to the waterproof when the forecast turns. Together, they cover almost everything the weather can throw at you. A simple checklist to help you decide: Cold but dry: fleece Wet or windy: waterproof dog jacket Cold and wet: layer both Short-coated or elderly dog: prioritise warmth first, then weatherproofing Whatever you go for, fit matters. A coat that gaps, bunches, or restricts movement won’t do its job properly — and it won’t be comfortable for your dog either. Before you buy, take a look at our guide on how to measure your dog for a coat to make sure you get it right first time. Frequently Asked Questions Should dogs wear waterproof coats? Yes, dogs should wear waterproof coats when walks are wet, windy, or muddy. A waterproof coat keeps fur drier, blocks wind chill, reduces post-walk drying time, and helps protect the chest and harness area from soaking through, which makes longer outings much more comfortable for many dogs. Is fleece good for dogs? Yes, fleece is good for dogs when the weather is cold and dry. It adds soft, breathable warmth, so it suits short-coated, lean, older, or less active dogs especially well. On wet days, though, fleece works best as a layer under a waterproof coat rather than on its own.

By Adele Busby
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23.09.26 September 23, 2026 Owning a Dog

Best Playpen Accessories: Mats, Covers And Add-Ons

A well-chosen playpen does a lot for your dog, but the right accessories are what make it genuinely work day to day. This guide walks you through the best playpen accessories for dogs, from mats and covers to the small add-ons that solve the everyday problems most people don’t think about until they’re already dealing with them. Whether you have a chewing puppy, an anxious rescue, or a dog who just needs a comfortable corner to call their own, there’s a practical starting point here for you. What to think about before you buy playpen accessories A playpen gives your dog their own space, but the right accessories are what make it actually work for your household. Before you start adding things to your basket, it’s worth thinking about what problem you’re actually trying to solve — because the best playpen accessories for dogs are the ones that fit your dog’s needs, not just the ones that look the part. Start by asking yourself what’s making the playpen tricky right now. If your puppy is skidding around on a hard floor, a well-fitted mat will make a real difference to their comfort and confidence. If you’re dealing with puddles or chewed bedding on a weekly basis, you’ll want something easy to wipe down or swap out quickly. If your dog tends to be restless or reactive, a cover might help them settle. And if the pen lives outside, weatherproofing becomes the priority before anything else. Your dog’s age and temperament matter just as much as the setup itself. A young puppy in the thick of a chewing phase needs very different puppy playpen accessories than a calm older dog who just wants a cosy corner to nap in. Soft dog bedding works beautifully for a settled dog, but might last about five minutes with an enthusiastic chewer — something worth factoring in before you buy. Getting clear on your dog’s routine first means you spend money on things that genuinely get used, rather than accessories that quietly migrate to the back of a cupboard after week one. Choosing the right mat: comfort, grip, and easy cleaning The right mat can make a surprising difference to how settled your dog feels inside their pen. Choose well and it quietly does a lot of the heavy lifting for you. Choose badly and you’re dealing with a mat that slides around, soaks through, or falls apart within a fortnight. Three things should shape your decision: your dog’s age and life stage, where they’re at with housetraining, and how many hours a day they’ll actually be using the pen. Everything else follows from there. Here’s what to focus on when weighing up your options: Non-slip backing: A mat that shifts every time your dog turns a circle will frustrate you both. Rubberised or grippy bases are especially important on hard floors. Waterproof or water-resistant layers: Non-negotiable for puppies still learning the ropes. Accidents happen, and a mat that soaks straight through makes cleaning far harder than it needs to be. Machine-washable fabrics: Weekly washing keeps things fresh without much effort. Most dog owners won’t want a mat they can’t throw in the machine. Extra cushioning: Puppies and older dogs with stiff joints need more support underfoot, particularly during longer rest periods. Size compatibility: A mat that doesn’t fit the pen properly creates bunched edges and trip hazards. Worth measuring before you buy. Durability for chewers: Plush options won’t last five minutes with some dogs. A denser, tougher mat is a much safer bet. Quick guide: which mat type suits your dog? Scenario What to prioritise Young puppy still housetraining Waterproof layer, machine-washable, easy-wipe surface Older or fully trained dog Generous cushioning, soft fabric, longer-lasting comfort The key is matching the mat to where your dog is right now, not where you’re hoping they’ll be in a few months. If you’re not sure where to start, the Lords & Labradors dog crate bedding collection is worth a look — there are options to suit every age, breed, and stage. When a playpen cover makes sense — and what to look for Not every playpen needs a cover, but in the right situation, one can make a real difference. If your pup spends time outside on warmer days, sits near a bright window, or simply gets overwhelmed easily and needs somewhere quieter to settle, a dog playpen cover earns its place pretty quickly. It’s one of those puppy playpen accessories that feels optional right up until the moment you realise you actually need it. Feature What it does Best for Shade level Reduces heat and glare Outdoor use, sunny rooms Airflow Keeps air circulating inside Warm climates, summer use Mesh panels Lets light and air in while softening stimulation Anxious or easily distracted dogs Solid panels Blocks visual triggers completely Highly reactive or overstimulated dogs Weather resistance Protects against wind and light rain Outdoor or semi-covered spaces Secure fastenings Keeps cover in place safely Essential for any setup A few things to avoid when you’re shopping around: Covers that have no ventilation built in — they trap heat fast Fully solid designs with no airflow on any side Loose or flimsy fastenings that could sag inward Thin fabric that promises shade but doesn’t really deliver it The right cover comes down to where the pen lives and how your dog actually behaves inside it. Mesh panels suit most dogs well, letting in light and air while taking the edge off busier surroundings. Something more enclosed works better for pups who are easily startled or genuinely struggle to switch off. If your dog craves that darker, den-like calm, our crate covers are worth a look too — they pair nicely with a playpen setup when you want to give your dog a proper retreat alongside room to move. The best add-ons for safer, tidier playpen setups The right extras can turn a basic pen into something that feels much easier to live with. When you’re choosing the best playpen accessories for dogs, it usually comes down to fixing the little day-to-day annoyances that make a setup feel messy or awkward. Think spilled water, toys all over the floor, or a puppy who keeps chewing the sides when they should be settling. Attachable water bowls are brilliant for dogs who treat every drink like a splash zone. Because they clip to the panels, they’re harder to tip and help keep your playpen mat for dogs drier. If you want something equally handy for trips out, these spill-resistant travel bowls are well worth a look. Toy organisers or clip-on pockets help keep chews, soft toys, and treats in one place, which makes the whole pen feel more organised, especially in a kitchen or living room corner. Guard panels or corner covers can be useful for very young puppies who mouth bars, squeeze into edges, or need a slightly softer boundary while they learn. Protective bedding covers are a practical choice if your dog scratches, digs, or chews at their bed before settling. They can help keep padded inserts cleaner and easier to maintain. Raised bowl holders are useful if you regularly serve meals inside the pen and want to keep food off the floor and away from bedding. Floor grips or anchor points help stop lightweight pens sliding on wood or tile, which is especially helpful for excitable puppies. The most useful dog playpen accessories are the ones that solve your dog’s habits, not the ones that simply add more stuff. Start with one or two fixes, then build a setup that feels calm, tidy, and easy to manage. How to match accessories to your dog’s age, behaviour, and routine No two dogs are the same, and the best playpen accessories for dogs really do come down to your individual dog’s age, habits, and daily routine. A bouncy eight-week-old pup needs something very different from a nervous rescue or a dog who lounges in the pen while you take back-to-back calls from home. Getting that match right from the start saves you money and makes life easier for both of you. Dog Profile Key Challenge Recommended Accessory Focus Young Puppy Accidents, cold floors, chewing Waterproof mat, chew-resistant edges, soft bedding Heavy Chewer Destroying soft materials quickly Tough rubber mat, minimal fabric add-ons Rescue Dog Anxiety, overstimulation Privacy cover, calming mat, quiet enclosed setup WFH Companion Long hours in the pen, boredom Comfortable mat, enrichment hooks, water bowl clip Sofa Lover Reluctance to settle in the pen Plush padded mat, familiar-scented bedding A few pointers if your dog ticks more than one box: Chewer and anxious? Prioritise durability first, then layer in comfort once you know what holds up. Young pup who hates the pen? Lead with warmth and familiarity, and upgrade as they settle. Rescue who also chews? Skip fabric covers for now and opt for a solid panel instead. Dog across three profiles? Start with whatever’s causing the most disruption day to day. Buy for the dog you actually have, not the perfectly calm, contented one in the product photos. When you’re ready to shop around your dog’s specific needs, the full range of dog accessories at Lords & Labradors is a good place to start. Which playpen accessories are worth it for you? The best playpen accessories for dogs are the ones that actually solve your problems, not the ones that look prettiest on a product page. So before you add anything to your basket, it helps to think honestly about what your daily routine looks like. If you just need something clean and low-maintenance, a washable playpen mat and a couple of familiar toys will take you further than you might expect. For settled dogs spending short stretches in the pen while you crack on with your day, that’s genuinely all you need. For a young puppy or an anxious dog, a soft mat, a cover for privacy, and a clip-on water bowl make the space feel cosy rather than just contained. That combination tends to make a real difference to how quickly they settle — and once they do, everything gets a little easier. If your dog spends longer stretches in the pen, or you’re moving it between indoors and outside, it’s worth building things out a little: a proper mat, a weatherproof cover, and secure add-ons that keep the setup safe and tidy over time. The honest truth is you rarely need everything at once. Start with what solves your biggest problem today, then add to it as you go. If you’re not sure where to begin, browsing the Lords and Labradors home essentials collection is a good way to get your bearings. Frequently Asked Questions What is the best thing to put in a dog pen? The best thing to put in a dog pen is a well-fitted mat that suits your dog’s needs. For puppies, choose something waterproof, grippy, and easy to wash; for older or settled dogs, prioritise cushioning and comfort. A clip-on water bowl and a few familiar toys can also make the space feel calmer and tidier. Are dog playpens a good idea? Yes, dog playpens are a good idea when they’re set up around your dog’s needs. The right accessories can make the space more comfortable, safer, and easier to manage, whether that means a non-slip mat for confidence, a cover for privacy, or practical add-ons that keep mess under control.

By Adele Busby
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Walking The Dog In Winter: Tips For The Colder Months

1. Safe Temperature to Walk Your Dog in Winter

2. How Long Can You Walk a Dog in Cold Weather?

3. How to Keep Your Dog Warm on Winter Walks - Winter Dog Walking Essentials:

4. Dog Walking Shoes for Winter:

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6. How to Warm Your Dog Up After a Winter Walk

7. How to Walk Your Dog in Winter

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