At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in handmade, modern luxury dog beds and bedding for your furry friends. This range is perfect for any nervous pups.
For pet parents, few things are as essential as a good night's sleep—for both you and your furry companion. Yet, coaxing your beloved dog to sleep through the night isn't always a walk in the park. Whether you're dealing with a young pup, an older dog, or simply seeking to establish a solid nighttime routine, mastering this aspect of their wellbeing is crucial. Let's delve into a comprehensive guide on how to get your dog to sleep through the night.
1. Establish a Consistent Routine
Dogs thrive on routine. Set regular feeding times, walks, and play sessions during the day. This helps expend their energy, making it easier for them to settle down at night. As they get used to your routine of settling down in the evening they are much more likely to follow suit and settle down with you
2. Create a Comfortable Sleep Environment
Designate a cosy, quiet, and dark sleeping area for your dog. A comfortable bed or crate in a familiar spot can make a significant difference. Consider using soothing music or white noise to drown out disturbances. If light seems to affect your dog’s sleeping patterns try using a crate with a crate cover and bumper to create the perfect cosy dark den.
3. Exercise and Mental Stimulation
A tired dog is more likely to sleep soundly. Engage your furry friend in physical activities and mental exercises throughout the day. Puzzle toys or training sessions can tire them out both physically and mentally. We love using snuffle mats with our dogs for their dinner to help tire their brains out, 15 minutes of snuffling is equivalent to an hours walk!
4. Limit Evening Activities
Minimise excitement or vigorous playtime in the evening. Instead, focus on calm activities to signal the transition to bedtime. Try removing some of their more energetic toys like ropes or balls and give them chew toys that they can lay down to play with, a lot of dogs find chewing calming.
5. Establish a Wind-Down Routine
Similar to humans, dogs benefit from winding down before sleep. Incorporate calming activities like a leisurely walk or gentle massage into their nightly routine. We personally love having snuggles on the sofa with our pups as part of their nighttime routine.
6. Dietary Considerations
Avoid feeding large meals right before bedtime. Opt for feeding your dog earlier in the evening to allow ample time for digestion and prevent discomfort.
7. Toilet Breaks
Ensure your dog has had the opportunity to relieve themselves before settling down for the night. A pre-bedtime bathroom break can prevent disruptions during the night.
8. Comforting Presence
For puppies or dogs prone to anxiety, your presence can be reassuring. Consider leaving an item with your scent, like a piece of clothing or a scent blanket, near their sleeping area. Or you could try something like a heartbeat sheep or warm buddy bear which are designed to comfort your dog through the night.
9. Positive Reinforcement
Encourage and reward your dog's good behaviour at night. Offer praise or a small treat when they settle down or remain calm during the night.
10. Consult a Professional
If your dog consistently struggles with sleeping through the night, seeking advice from a veterinarian or a professional dog trainer can provide tailored solutions to address underlying issues. Remember, patience and consistency are key when training your dog to sleep through the night. Each dog is unique, so be adaptable and observe what works best for your furry companion. By implementing these strategies, you'll pave the way for restful nights—for both you and your beloved canine companion. Sweet dreams to you and your furry friend!
Humans spend a third of their lives in bed, so you probably spent ages choosing the right bed and mattress to make sure that you get the best night’s sleep possible and don’t end up like Goldilocks with a bed that’s not right! But what about choosing the perfect dog bed?
A dog can spend a significant amount of time in their bed, and as a beloved member of your family, your furry friend needs a bed that they’re happy and comfortable with. But how exactly do you choose the right bed for your dog?
For many dogs, their bed is an important part of their lives that helps with relaxing, unwinding and gaining some personal space away from humans and other animals. It may be tempting as a dog owner to allow your pooch to carry out their naps in your bed or on other items of furniture around the house, but as a dog bed offers suitable support to your dog and a sanctuary for them during downtime, it’s important they have one.
In this guide we take a closer look at choosing a dog bed, one that’s perfect for dreaming and sleeping all night long!
Do Dogs Need Beds?
On average, dogs spend between 12 and 18 hours of the day asleep, so a bed that’s comfortable, supportive and suits their needs is key for any dog. It’s only natural that your four-legged friend may choose to take power naps beside you on the sofa or even spend moments sleeping in your bed, but a dog bed is an important asset in any dog’s life and it is often recognised as their own environment for having time by themselves, relaxing and unwinding after a long day causing mischief.
Other benefits to dog beds include:
Contributing to health and comfort
Easing feelings of stress and anxiety
Improving the training process
Offering quality sleep
Preserving condition of human furniture
Preventing behavioural issues
How to choose a dog bed
There are loads of dog beds to choose from here at Lords & Labradors but picking the right bed for your dog can be overwhelming. Fortunately, you can use a few key factors to pick out the best option for your dog based on the breed and size of your dog and how they like to sleep.
The key things to think about when choosing a dog bed are
Size
Sleeping Styles
Comfort
How To Choose A Dog Bed Size
Size plays an important role in deciding the correct bed for your dog. If you have a Dachshund, an extra-large bed designed for sprawling out may be excessive, just as you would be lucky to fit any part of a Doberman in a small igloo bed.
A dog bed needs to be big enough for them to comfortably lie in all their favourite positions whilst still being small enough for them to feel cosy & safe in. All our dog beds, here at Lords and Labradors, have a size guide which will help give you an idea of which bed we’d recommend for your breed.
Measuring your dog will help to give you an idea of what size dog bed they will need. To do this, wait until they are sleeping and measure them in centimetres from their nose to their back paws. You should then add around 25 centimetres onto the measurement you’ve taken and a bed with a similar length should be ideal for your furry friend.
How To Choose A Dog Bed Style
As well as the size of your dog, how they sleep is also an important factor to consider. Your dog will give you clues about what bed they’d sleep best in and how they like to sleep every single day. Some dogs love to stretch out, whereas other dogs love to curl up with their nose touching their tail. Here we talk you through the different styles of dog bed and what sleep style they suit.
Mattress Beds/Cushions
Is your dog a side sleeper? Do they love to sprawl out whilst sleeping? Maybe a cushion or a mattress bed is for them, this will give them the space to stretch out whilst still being super comfy. Our crate cushions also work great as standalone cushions for dogs who love their sleep space.
High Wall Beds
The tall squishy walls of a high wall bed are great for dogs who love something to rest their head on whilst still curling up . The high sides will help to keep them feeling safe and secure, so they can really get cosy during nap time. Our high wall beds have a lowered front edge so it’s easy for your dog to get in and out.
Donut Beds
Donut beds as the name suggest are a circle shape with a raised ring round the side. These are great dog bed for dogs who suffer with anxiety and like to curl up in their bed to unwind, the cosy sides will cocoon them and make them feel safe. We’ve made our donut beds with the most sumptuously soft faux fur so it’s perfect for snuggling up in for those all important naps.
Box Beds
Does your dog like to stretch out but still love something to rest their head on? A dog box bed is a perfect choice for them. The square shape means they’ve got plenty of space to stretch out but the padded edges are soft and perfect for hanging their head off whilst napping.
Orthopaedic Beds
Just like we can get orthopaedic mattresses, you can get orthopaedic dog beds. These are a great choice for dogs who have specific health needs, like joint problems or senior dogs who need a little more support. The foam inner on our L&L Orthopaedic mattress has been designed to provide plenty of support for dogs who need it. They’re also low to the floor so they’re easy for dogs with aches and pains to get on and off.
Den Beds
Does your dog like to burrow and hide? Breeds such as Dachshunds and Jack Russels were bred to go to ground when hunting so have a natural instinct to tunnel and burrow, so a den bed is perfect for them. Our den beds are round and have a comfy cushions so are perfect for curling up in but the attached blanket means they can hide and burrow before settling down to sleep.
Picking the perfect puppy bed
Are you getting a new puppy? You’ll probably want to get them a puppy bed before transitioning to an adult bed. Puppy beds are usually slightly smaller than the adult beds to stop your puppy from feeling lost in their new bed. We have two styles of puppy beds here at L&L, both of which have been tested with our own puppies to make sure they’re fit for purpose
Cosy & Calming Puppy Crate Bed
Our cosy & calming puppy beds are exactly as the name suggests, cosy and calming. They have been designed to fill just over half of a dog crate so if you’re crate training your puppy this will help divide their crate and aid their toilet training. The rectangle beds have padded raised walls all the way round for your puppy to snuggle up in and the cushion in the middle is made from the softest fleece, perfect for all those naps your puppy needs!
Grow With Me Puppy Beds
Our newest addition to our bed range, the grow with me puppy beds have high walls to create a feeling of security for nervous puppies. They feature a soft removable ring which you can take out as your puppy grows. This means the bed is never too big for your puppy and it can grow with them. This is perfect dog bed to choose for more nervous puppies or puppies who love to be cocooned and curled up
Do dogs need soft beds?
Dog beds are available in a selection of different materials, so it’s important you choose the most suitable option for your dog. A dog bed needs to be firm enough to offer support to your dog but comfortable enough to make them feel cosy and relaxed.
For puppies, a super soft dog bed with sides to prevent them from tumbling out will make them feel more settled, especially if they’ve recently moved into your home. However, this type of bed may be too small to fit a larger dog, and as older dogs may struggle to get out of a bed that’s particularly spongy, a dog cushion would be more fitting, and it would help to support their ageing joints.
For more destructive dogs you might want a dog bed that’s made out of something more hardwearing, like our Rhino Tough faux-leather beds, rather than a soft furry beds!
How Long Do Dog Beds Last?
Whether your dog is prone to bringing snacks to bed, walking mud all over their bed or scratching at it and kneading it until it feels exactly right, it’s to be expected that it will become damaged and eventually require replacing. A dog bed’s lifespan could be several years if it’s a good quality or a matter of weeks if it’s not.
However, you can extend the time you use a dog bed by washing it as instructed on the label and cleaning away any food or dirt as soon as it comes into contact with it. Dogs are messy creatures by design, but it’s a shame to let them ruin a perfectly good bed, especially if it’s one they’re particularly fond of.
How Often Should You Replace A Dog Bed
As dogs are unpredictable, it’s not always easy to anticipate when they will do something that totally ruins their bed. It may be in good condition for several months before they pull out a thread while scratching it and end up accidentally ripping it open and pulling out all the stuffing. Unfortunately, if this happens, it’s unlikely that you will be able to fix it and the best solution will be to replace it entirely with a new dog bed.
However, you may be wondering when you should give up on your pooch’s bed and invest in a new one. Situations where you should consider replacing your dog bed include when:
It smells and repeated washing isn’t removing the nasty odour
It’s infested with fleas and nothing is working to remove them
The stuffing is falling out, the material is ripped and it’s totally beyond repair.
How Many Dog Beds Should A Dog Have?
All dogs should have at least one bed, but if your dog spends time in different rooms, providing multiple beds can mean that they feel more comfortable in each room and are less inclined to jump on human furniture.
If you have more than one dog, it would be advisable to provide a bed for each of them. However, if they tend to snuggle up together, it could make sense to choose a bed that’s big enough to support both of them.
What Dog Bed Should I Buy?
So, when it comes to identifying the best dog bed for your furry friend, consider their wants and needs and match it with an option that ticks all the right boxes. If your dog is large, check that they’ll fit in the bed. If they’re prone to scratching and digging in their bed, make sure the material is strong enough to withstand this level of wear and tear. If they’re old, pick a bed that’s designed to support them effectively.
If you’re still not sure what dog bed to choose, why not chat to one of our Customer Care team? They’re pet experts with years of knowledge, they can help to advise you on which dog bed will suit your dog!
Still not sure what bed to get your dog? Why not chat to one of our pet experts? They're bed experts and will be able to advise you which bed will be the best fit and shape for your dog, call us on +44 1790 720 900 or email us on sales@lordsandlabradors.co.uk
Why Does My Dog Sleep Under My Bed? Unraveling the Mystery
As a loving pet owner, you might have wondered why your furry companion chooses to retreat under your bed for slumber instead of in their own cosy bed. While it may seem like a peculiar behaviour, rest assured, there are legitimate reasons behind this canine inclination.
In this blog post, we will explore the various motives that drive dogs to sleep under beds and seek answers to some common questions, such as whether dogs like blankets, if it's safe to let them sleep under the bed, and why they prefer hiding under the covers or duvets.
5 Reasons Your Dog May Be Sleeping Under Your Bed
1. The Natural Instinct Of Shelter
Dogs are descendants of wolves, and their instinct to seek shelter is deeply ingrained in their DNA. Just like wild canines seek out cosy dens to protect themselves from predators and harsh weather, your domesticated pooch instinctively looks for a safe, enclosed space to sleep under, providing them with a sense of security and protection. So your dog choosing to sleep under your bed is simply their natural instincts coming into play.
2. Temperature Regulation
Another reason your dog might prefer sleeping under your bed is temperature regulation. Beds often have open spaces underneath, which provide cooler spots during hot weather. Conversely, during colder seasons, the space under the bed can be warmer, creating a snug spot for your dog to curl up and stay comfortable.
3. Safety and Privacy
Dogs, much like humans, value their personal space. By retreating under your bed, they can enjoy some solitude and privacy, away from the hustle and bustle of the household. This becomes particularly apparent if your dog is feeling anxious or stressed.
4. The Appeal of Familiar Scents
Dogs are incredibly social and affectionate animals, and their desire to be close to their human companions is undeniable. One of the reasons why dogs often choose to sleep under the bed is their instinctual need for closeness and connection with their owners. Your bed, a place where you spend a significant amount of time, is filled with your scent, which is like a comforting and familiar fragrance to your canine friend. By snuggling up under the bed, your dog can feel surrounded by your presence even while resting. This behaviour showcases their loyalty and attachment to you, as they seek solace in being near the person they love and trust the most. It's a heartwarming reminder of the special bond we share with our four-legged friends.
5. Dogs and Blankets: A Cosy Combination
Some dogs love blankets or covers, while others may not be as fond of them. Just like humans, each dog has its own unique preferences. If your dog enjoys the security and warmth of being covered by a blanket, they may seek out the confined space under your bed as a prime napping location. If you want to treat your dog to a new blanket to get cosy with, why not explore our range of luxury blankets? They’re handmade here in our Lincolnshire workshop by our talented seamstresses, and are made using the finest materials so you know they’re best quality for your pup!
Should I Let My Dog Sleep Under the Bed?
Allowing your dog to sleep under the bed is generally safe, as long as there are no hazards or potential dangers in the area. Ensure that the space under your bed is clean, free from sharp objects, and properly ventilated. Additionally, if your dog has any mobility or health issues, you might want to consider providing a more easily accessible sleeping spot.
Why Is My Dog Suddenly Sleeping Under The Bed?
If your dog has suddenly started sleeping under the bed, there could be various reasons behind this behaviour change. It's essential to observe your pet closely and consider any recent changes in their environment or routine. Sudden hiding could indicate stress, fear, or discomfort. In such cases, it's best to consult with a veterinarian or a professional dog behaviourist to identify the underlying cause and provide appropriate support.
How To Tell If My Dog Is Sleeping Or Hiding Under My Bed
If you suspect that your furry friend might be seeking refuge under your bed, there are several telltale signs to look for to determine if they are sleeping or hiding.
Body Language and Behaviour: If they are lying down comfortably with their eyes closed and seem at ease, chances are they are peacefully snoozing. You might even hear soft snoring or gentle breathing as they drift off to dreamland. On the other hand, if your dog appears tense, anxious, or exhibits fearful behaviour, they could be hiding under the bed as a response to stress or unease. Look for signs like tucked ears, a lowered tail, or avoiding eye contact.
Consider the context of the situation: If there have been recent changes in the household or if your dog has encountered something frightening, they may choose to retreat under the bed as a coping mechanism.
Appetite and sleep pattern changes: If your dog’s anxiety is leading to them hiding under the bed, you may notice some other changes to their routine. Their appetite or interest in their food may decrease and their sleep patterns may be disrupted.
By paying attention to their body language and considering the circumstances, you can better understand whether your beloved companion is seeking comfort or seeking solace under the bed
How To Stop My Dog Sleeping Under My Bed
While your dog seeking comfort under your bed is natural, there may be instances when you'd prefer them to sleep elsewhere for various reasons. Perhaps the accumulation of fur is becoming an issue, or you're concerned about potential hygiene concerns. Fortunately, with patience and positive reinforcement, you can gently encourage your furry companion to choose a different sleeping spot. Here are some effective strategies to help redirect your dog's sleeping habits:
Introduce a Cosy Dog Bed: Invest in a comfortable and inviting dog bed placed in a quiet and accessible area of your bedroom or another preferred location. Make it attractive by adding their favourite toys or blanket to entice them to use it. We specialise in luxury cosy dog beds, why not browse our range and treat your dog to a new bed?
Positive Reinforcement: Whenever you catch your dog resting in their new bed or any other location besides under your bed, praise them with enthusiasm and offer small treats as positive reinforcement. Dogs respond well to rewards and will associate the new spot with positive experiences.
Block Access to Under the Bed: If possible, limit your dog's access to the space under your bed. Use baby gates or furniture to block the area off and make it less appealing as a hiding spot.
Create a Safe Space: Dogs often seek shelter under the bed when they feel anxious or stressed. To prevent this, provide a designated "safe space" in your home, like a quiet corner or a crate with comfortable bedding. Encourage your dog to use this space by rewarding them whenever they go there voluntarily. You could look at crate training your dog, crates are designed to create that “safe space” for your dog, helping your dog to find that sense of security they are looking for. Our pet experts have written a guide on how to crate train your dog, with all their tips and tricks to help make the process as easy as possible.
Consistency is Key: Be patient and consistent in redirecting your dog to their new sleeping area. It may take time for them to break the habit of hiding under the bed, but with persistence, they will learn to embrace their new sleeping spot.
Seek Professional Advice: If your dog's behaviour persists despite your efforts, consider seeking guidance from a professional dog trainer or animal behaviourist. They can assess your dog's specific needs and tailor a training plan to help modify their sleeping habits.
Conclusion
Your dog's decision to sleep under your bed is a combination of natural instincts, seeking comfort, and a safe haven. Providing your pet with a secure and clean space is essential, as it allows them to indulge in their innate behaviours while ensuring their well-being and contentment.
Remember that each dog is unique, so observe your furry companion's preferences and behaviours to better understand their needs. With love, patience, and a little understanding, you can create an environment where your dog feels happy, safe, and cherished, even if it's under your bed.
If you have more questions or need further assistance regarding your dog's behaviour, consult with a professional veterinarian or animal behaviour specialist to ensure your pet's health and happiness. Happy pet parenting!
Designed with nervous pups in mind, this collection of beds is made from super soft fabrics to help settle you dog, in our best selling designs to make your four legged friend feel safe.
There is something quietly wonderful about a dog who gravitates straight to your pillow the moment you get up, and if you have ever found yourself wondering why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up, the reasons are far sweeter than you might expect. In this article, we look at the real instincts behind the behaviour, from scent-seeking and warmth to the bond your dog feels with you, and how to tell the difference between simple affection and something worth keeping an eye on. We also share some gentle, practical ways to redirect the habit so everyone gets a good night’s sleep.
Why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up?
You roll out of bed, pop the kettle on, and come back to find your dog curled up on your pillow like it was always meant to be theirs. If that sounds familiar, you’re definitely not the only one asking, why does my dog lay on my pillow when I get up?
In most cases, the answer is really quite sweet. Your pillow is full of your scent, still warm from where you were lying, and wonderfully soft. For a dog, that combination is hard to resist. If you’ve ever wondered why does my dog sleep on my pillow or why does my dog lay in my spot after I get up, it usually comes down to comfort and closeness rather than cheekiness.
Dogs are comfort-seekers, and your smell helps them feel safe and settled. Add a cosy, just-vacated sleeping spot, and it makes perfect sense that they’d choose it. It’s also why some dogs sleep in their owner’s bed or hop straight into your seat on the sofa the second you stand up. They’re not trying to take over the house. They just like being close to their favourite person in the cosiest way possible.
For most dogs, this little pillow takeover is completely normal and affectionate. If you’d rather keep your pillow for yourself, it can help to offer an inviting alternative, like one of these cosy puppy beds, so they still get that same sense of comfort nearby.
The real reasons your dog has claimed your pillow
If you’ve ever asked yourself why your dog lays on your pillow the moment you get up, you’re in very good company. It’s one of those habits that looks a little cheeky on the surface but is actually rooted in some genuinely sweet instincts — and a few practical ones too.
Scent comfort: Your scent is at its strongest on your pillow, which means lying there feels, to your dog, like you haven’t fully gone anywhere. Dogs experience the world nose-first, and being wrapped in your familiar smell is genuinely calming for them. It’s their version of holding onto a little piece of you.
Warmth-seeking: That spot where you’ve been sleeping holds your body heat long after you’ve got up. Dogs are natural warmth-seekers, and a pillow that’s already perfectly warm is simply irresistible. Think of it as the canine equivalent of pinching your jumper off the sofa.
Territorial behaviour: Some dogs aren’t just after comfort — they’re making a quiet claim on the space. Lying in your spot is a way of anchoring themselves to it. This is rarely about dominance in the way older thinking suggested; it’s more about feeling settled and secure in their environment.
Separation proximity: Dogs who feel especially bonded to their owners often want to close the gap the moment you leave the room. For those with a strong need to stay near your scent, a dedicated space of their own — somewhere soft, familiar, and genuinely cosy, like a calming crate bed — can really help them settle without needing to raid yours.
Most pillow-claiming is simple habit or affection. If your dog seems distressed when you get up rather than just opportunistic, that’s worth a closer look — but we’ll come to that.
The majority of the time, this is your dog’s way of staying close to you. The rest of this article will help you make sense of exactly what they’re telling you.
What your dog is telling you with this little pillow takeover
When your dog shuffles over to claim your pillow the moment you get up, they’re not just after the fluffiest spot in the room. It’s a form of communication — a quiet way of staying close to you even after you’ve left. Think of it as their version of keeping a hand on the connection.
Here are some of the emotional signals this behaviour can carry:
Bonding and affection. Your dog loves you, and your pillow smells exactly like you. Sleeping where you slept is one of the most direct ways they can express that closeness.
Comfort through your scent. Your smell genuinely soothes them. It triggers feelings of safety, especially for dogs who are sensitive to shifts in routine or a bit more anxious by nature.
Mild reassurance-seeking. If your dog tends to follow your every move, lying in your spot is their way of holding onto your presence while you’re in another room making coffee.
Staying connected while you go about your day. It’s a small act of loyalty. A quiet way of saying, I was with you, and I’m still with you.
Social signalling. Sharing sleep spaces is deeply meaningful to dogs. It reinforces trust and the kind of closeness that makes them feel secure.
Did You Know? Dogs have up to 300 million olfactory receptors, compared to around six million in humans. Your pillow isn’t just fabric to them — it’s an emotional anchor, loaded with your scent and everything that makes them feel safe.
Taken together, these signals point to something genuinely reassuring: pillow-stealing is nearly always a sign of healthy attachment. If you want to get better at reading these small, sweet moments, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a brilliant place to start.
When pillow stealing is harmless — and when to pay a bit more attention
For the vast majority of dogs, pillow stealing is one of those completely harmless quirks that just comes with the territory of sharing your life with them.
Usually just sweet
Seeking out your scent because it feels safe and familiar
Settling into the warmth you’ve left behind in the bedding
Following a little morning routine they’ve quietly established for themselves
Simply wanting to stay close to you, even after you’ve left the room
If you’ve ever asked yourself why your dog lays on your pillow when you get up, the answer is almost always rooted in affection and comfort. Nothing to worry about.
Worth a closer look
Clinginess that follows you through the whole day, not just at bedtime
Visible distress when left alone — panting, pacing, or whining
Growling or stiffening if you approach the pillow while they’re on it
A sudden change in sleep habits that feels out of character
That last one is worth paying attention to. Dogs are creatures of habit, so anything that shifts noticeably is worth a gentle check-in with your vet.
Most dogs simply want closeness and comfort, and having their own inviting space to settle into can genuinely help with that. If your dog could do with a snug spot to call their own, our Sleepy Burrows collection is a lovely place to start. Either way, knowing what’s normal for your dog is always the most reliable guide.
How to keep everyone happy at bedtime and beyond
If your dog has claimed your pillow as their personal throne, you really don’t need to wage war over it. A few small, thoughtful changes can make bedtime work beautifully for both of you.
Start by giving your dog a sleeping spot they actually want to use. The reason so many dogs sleep on your pillow comes down to scent and safety, so the goal is simply to recreate that feeling somewhere else. Try placing their bed in your bedroom, close to yours if possible, and tuck a worn t-shirt or old pillowcase inside it. That familiar smell does a surprising amount of reassuring work without you having to do much else.
Routine is your other best friend here. Dogs who know what to expect at bedtime tend to settle faster and feel far less compelled to claim your spot the moment you leave it. A short pre-bed walk, a calm wind-down, and a consistent “go to your bed” cue can gently shift the habit over time — no stress, no drama.
For dogs who burrow into your bedding seeking that cosy, held feeling, the sleeping surface really matters. Something like the Sleepy Burrows Bed in Calming Anti-Anxiety Dusk Faux Fur is designed for exactly that type of dog — the ones who want to sink in and feel wrapped up rather than simply lie on top of something flat. Pillow stealers tend to fall into this category more often than not.
The goal isn’t to take something away from your dog. It’s to give them something just as good, somewhere that feels entirely their own.
Few things throw off a walk quite like your dog deciding, mid-route, that they’re done and planting themselves firmly on the ground. Whether your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move out of exhaustion, fear, pain, or sheer stubbornness, there’s almost always a reason behind it worth understanding. This guide walks you through the most common causes, what to do when it happens, warning signs to take seriously, and how to set up better walks going forward.
Why your dog lies down on walks in the first place
One moment you’re halfway through a perfectly pleasant walk, and the next your dog has flopped onto the pavement and is refusing to budge. Sound familiar? If your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, you’re far from alone — and before you start wondering if you’ve somehow raised the world’s most strong-willed dog, it helps to understand what’s actually going on.
Here’s the thing: when a dog stops walking and lies down, they’re almost always trying to tell you something. It might feel frustrating in the moment, especially if you’re stood on a busy pavement with the lead pulled taut, but this behaviour is usually communication, not defiance. Dogs can’t say “I’m worn out” or “that noise is really scaring me,” so sometimes their whole body does the talking instead.
The reasons behind it vary more than you might expect. Some dogs sit down or lie down mid-walk because they’re genuinely tired or starting to overheat. Others do it because something has made them anxious or uneasy. Pain and physical discomfort are worth considering too, particularly in older dogs or breeds that are prone to joint problems. And yes, occasionally a dog simply decides the walk is over and plants themselves on the ground with impressive conviction.
Working out which of these is actually happening is the real starting point. If you’re still getting to grips with how your dog expresses themselves, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a great place to start. The sections ahead cover each cause in detail, along with what you can do about them.
The most common reasons a dog suddenly stops and flops down
There are plenty of moments in dog ownership that leave you standing on the pavement, lead in hand, completely baffled. When your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, it can feel equal parts frustrating and worrying. The good news? Once you know what to look for, the cause is usually easier to spot than you’d think.
Physical tiredness: Puppies, older dogs, and shorter-legged breeds can simply run out of steam faster than others. If your dog has been bounding along enthusiastically and then suddenly flops down, they may have just hit their limit. Heavy breathing, a gradual slowdown beforehand, and reluctance to get back up are all signs pointing this way.
Overheating: Dogs regulate heat very differently to us, and hot pavements can make things worse fast. If your dog stops and lies down alongside excessive panting, drooling, or a desperate search for shade, heat is likely the culprit — and it’s one that always warrants a quick response.
Fear or sensory overwhelm: Loud traffic, unfamiliar dogs, or a busy new environment can cause some dogs to shut down completely mid-walk. Look for tucked ears, a low body posture, or a pattern of stopping in the same spot rather than randomly.
Pain or physical discomfort: A dog that sits down during a walk and won’t get going again could be dealing with sore paws, joint pain, or something more acute. Limping, flinching, or repeatedly licking one area are all worth taking seriously.
Learned behaviour: If lying down has reliably earned your dog a rest, a treat, or a u-turn home, there’s a good chance they’ve figured out it works. This one tends to happen in predictable places, often close to home near the end of a walk.
The same behaviour — a dog refusing to walk on the lead and dropping to the ground — can mean very different things depending on context. Paying attention to patterns and timing will tell you far more than the moment itself.
What to do in the moment when your dog refuses to move
When your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, the first thing to do is take a breath. Pulling, pushing, or getting frustrated rarely helps, and it can actually make things worse. How you handle that standoff moment matters more than you might think.
Check for heat or injury first. Feel their paws against the pavement, look for any limping or flinching, and check whether they’re panting more than usual. If something seems physically off, end the walk right there. No destination is worth pushing through pain.
Offer water. It sounds simple, but a tired or overheated dog often just needs a drink and a moment to recover. Get into the habit of carrying water on every walk, especially through spring and summer.
Look for what might be worrying them. A loud lorry rumbling past, an off-lead dog bounding over, a cluster of rowdy kids — any of these could be the reason your dog stops walking and lies down. If you can spot a trigger, move away from it before asking them to walk on.
Try changing direction. A simple about-turn can do a lot. Heading somewhere new often sparks enough curiosity to get them back on their feet without any fuss.
Bring out the good stuff. A small piece of chicken or cheese held just ahead of them can be all the encouragement they need. Keep the energy light and positive rather than tense or coaxing.
Know when to call it. If your dog is small enough to carry, carry them. If they’re exhausted or overwhelmed, cutting the walk short is the right call, full stop. Dragging them forward doesn’t build confidence — it just erodes trust.
A little patience and observation will take you much further than frustration. That said, if your dog regularly flops down mid-walk, it’s worth looking beyond the moment to understand what’s really going on.
How to tell if it’s a one-off wobble or a sign something’s wrong
Most of the time, when your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, it’s nothing to worry about. But knowing what to look for can make all the difference between brushing it off and catching something early.
A one-off flop on a warm afternoon, or a puppy who plonks themselves down mid-pavement and loses all interest in moving, is usually harmless. It starts to feel worth a closer look when it keeps happening, appears out of nowhere, or comes alongside physical changes you can’t quite explain.
Likely harmless if…
It happens once or very occasionally
Your dog bounces back quickly and carries on as normal
The pavement is hot or the weather is warm
Your dog was overexcited before heading out
There are no other symptoms
Your dog stops and lies down near something interesting — a scent, another dog, a friendly stranger
Red flags to watch for
Limping, stiffness, or reluctance to put weight on a leg
Whimpering or flinching when touched
Trembling or shaking that isn’t cold-related
Heavy panting without an obvious cause
A sudden shift in their usual walk behaviour
Repeated refusal across several walks in a row
Low energy or lethargy at home too, not just on walks
Quick rule of thumb: If the refusal is sudden, keeps repeating, or comes with any physical symptom, treat it as a vet conversation — not a training problem.
When you do speak to your vet, it helps to have a rough timeline ready: when it started, how often your dog refuses to walk or lies down mid-route, and anything else you’ve noticed. The more detail you can give them, the easier it is to get to the bottom of it.
How to prevent future walk standoffs
The good news is that a few small changes can make a real difference to how your dog feels about walks — and how willing they are to keep going.
Start with timing. Walking in the cooler hours of the morning or evening during warmer months helps dogs stay comfortable and energised. Midday in summer is often when you’ll see a dog lie down on a walk and refuse to move — not out of stubbornness, but because the pavement is scorching and the air feels thick.
For puppies and older dogs, keeping walks age-appropriate matters more than most people realise. Young dogs are still building joints and stamina, and too much too soon leads to tired, reluctant walkers. A solid rule of thumb for puppies is five minutes per month of age, twice a day. Older dogs often do better with shorter, more frequent outings than one long haul. Our guide to exercise across your dog’s life stages is worth a read if you want to tailor things further.
It’s also worth checking your gear. A poorly fitted harness or collar can cause enough discomfort to make a dog sit down mid-walk, even if you can’t immediately see why. A well-fitted, comfortable harness removes that barrier before it becomes a habit.
Finally, make walks something your dog genuinely looks forward to. Vary your routes, let them sniff freely, and keep a few high-value treats in your pocket. Dogs who find walks rewarding rarely need much convincing to keep moving.
Few things throw off a walk quite like a dog who plants their paws and flatly refuses to go the direction you had in mind. If your dog refuses to walk certain directions, there’s nearly always a reason behind it, whether that’s fear, discomfort, or simply a strong opinion about where the good smells are. This guide covers how to tell those causes apart, what you can do to gently build confidence back up, and when it’s worth calling in a vet or behaviourist for extra support.
Why your dog suddenly refuses to walk one way
If your dog suddenly plants their paws and refuses to move in a certain direction, it can feel completely baffling — especially when they were perfectly happy heading that way last week. But this is rarely stubbornness. Most of the time, your dog is trying to tell you something.
Dogs build strong associations with the places they visit, and those associations can form faster than you might expect. A route that takes you past a noisy building site, a garden where a dog charges the fence, or even a spot where something once startled them can quickly become somewhere they’d rather avoid. When your dog stops walking or pulls back on the lead heading a particular way, that’s communication, not defiance.
It’s also worth taking seriously. The more often a dog is pushed through something that worries them, the stronger that negative association tends to become. Understanding what’s driving the behaviour, on the other hand, gives you a real chance to actually help.
The signals are usually there if you know what to look for: a tucked tail, flattened ears, a sudden reluctance to move forward, or frantic sniffing to avoid making eye contact with whatever’s ahead. These are all your dog’s way of saying “I’m not sure about this.” Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a great starting point if you’d like to get better at reading those cues before we dig into the causes.
The most common reasons dogs avoid certain routes
There’s almost always a reason when a dog refuses to walk certain directions, even if it isn’t immediately obvious. Dogs can’t tell us what’s wrong, so their behaviour on the lead is often the clearest signal we have. Pinning down the cause is the first step to making walks enjoyable again for both of you.
Fear or negative associations. A dog that freezes outside a particular house, digs their paws in near a certain gate, or turns back at the same point every time has often had a bad experience there. It might have been something that only happened once — a sudden loud noise or an unexpected run-in with another dog — but the memory sticks. That reluctance isn’t defiance. It’s self-protection.
Stubbornness or personal preference. Some dogs simply have opinions about where they want to go. One that consistently pulls toward home, or always steers for the park and resists anywhere else, is usually showing a preference rather than fear. It’s especially common in dogs who’ve settled into a comfortable routine and aren’t particularly interested in anything that disrupts it.
Overstimulation from busy environments. A dog that shuts down near traffic or crowded streets is often overwhelmed, not difficult. The noise, movement, and unpredictability can become genuinely too much to process. Dogs pushed past their threshold may also start barking on walks, which is worth paying attention to as another sign that they’re struggling.
Physical pain or discomfort. If your dog slows right down, starts labouring on a slope, or suddenly stops after turning a particular corner, pain could easily be the reason. Rough surfaces, uneven ground, or an underlying joint issue can all make certain routes feel uncomfortable in ways that are easy to miss until you know what to look for.
Each of these behaviours is your dog’s way of trying to tell you something. Recognising which pattern fits yours is where the real progress begins.
How to tell fear, pain, and simple preferences apart
When a dog refuses to walk certain directions, the behaviour usually falls into one of three categories: fear, physical discomfort, or a plain old preference. The good news? Your dog’s body language will often tell you which one you’re dealing with — you just need to know what to look for.
Signs it may be fear or anxiety
Ears flattened against the head
Tail tucked under the body
Panting without any physical exertion
Freezing mid-walk and refusing to budge
Whale eye (whites of the eyes showing)
Pulling back hard on the lead
Barking or lunging at a specific spot on the route
Signs it may be pain or physical discomfort
Stopping suddenly at the same point on a familiar route
Limping or favouring one leg
Reluctance to put weight on a paw
Slowing pace noticeably over time
Whimpering or vocalising when encouraged to move forward
Stiffness after resting, particularly in older dogs
Worth knowing: Fear responses are usually triggered by something your dog sees, hears, or smells. Pain responses tend to be consistent, progressive, or tied directly to movement.
Simple preferences are a different thing entirely. If your dog enthusiastically pulls toward their favourite sniff spot or drags you down a familiar street with their tail up and body relaxed, that’s not a red flag — that’s just a dog with opinions. But if you’re noticing persistent freezing, any hint of lameness, or a sudden shift in how your dog behaves on walks, it’s worth a vet visit to rule out anything physical before you do anything else.
Gentle training steps to rebuild confidence on tricky walks
If your dog refuses to walk certain directions, think of confidence-building as lots of tiny wins rather than one big breakthrough. The goal is to help them feel safe enough to choose forward movement again.
Keep early walks short and successful. Pick a route your dog already copes with and end before they feel overwhelmed. A calm five-minute outing is far more useful than a stressful twenty-minute one.
Reward the choice to move. If your dog stops walking on walks or pulls back on the lead, watch for the smallest brave decision: one step forward, a relaxed glance at the trigger, or choosing to sniff and re-engage. Mark that moment with a treat or warm praise.
Start farther away than you think. When a dog won’t walk in one direction, there is usually a point where they still feel okay. That is where training starts. If the post box, corner, or noisy road is too much, move back until their body softens, then build up gradually over several sessions.
Make things predictable. Familiar routes, similar walk times, and a steady pace help nervous dogs settle. Once they are moving happily again, you can gently add in new directions.
Use comfortable walking kit. A loose lead and a well-fitted harness can reduce pressure and help your dog feel more secure during desensitisation work. If you are reviewing your setup, a padded walking collection is a helpful example of softer, supportive kit.
Stay consistent and calm. Your dog does not need perfect walks. They just need regular, low-pressure practice.
Desensitisation means exposing your dog to the scary or tricky thing at a level they can cope with, then very slowly increasing the challenge as their confidence grows.
When to speak to a vet or behaviourist
Sometimes the kindest thing you can do is ask for help. If your dog refuses to walk certain directions and nothing you try seems to be making a difference, it’s a good sign that some expert guidance is in order.
Start with your vet, especially if the refusal came on suddenly or out of nowhere. If your dog is also limping, slowing down on walks, or seeming stiff and reluctant at home, pain could easily be the culprit. Conditions like arthritis, soft tissue injuries, or sore paws can be surprisingly easy to miss, and they can look a lot like stubbornness from the outside. A quick health check rules out anything physical before you turn your attention to behaviour.
If your vet gives the all-clear but your dog still pulls back on the leash, freezes, or refuses to go a certain way, a qualified behaviourist is your next call. This is particularly important when the avoidance feels emotional — rooted in fear or anxiety — because pushing through those moments without the right guidance can deepen the problem rather than resolve it.
Look for someone accredited by the ABTC or APBC who uses positive, reward-based methods. A good behaviourist will work at your dog’s pace, help you understand what’s really going on, and give you a practical plan to move forward. Most dogs do get there with the right support behind them.
Knowing what type of harness is best for a puppy feels like it should be simple, but between clip positions, harness styles, and sizing that actually fits a still-growing body, it quickly becomes a lot to take in. This guide cuts through the noise by comparing front-clip and back-clip designs, step-in and over-the-head styles, and the fit details that make the difference between a harness your puppy wears happily and one they escape from on the first walk. By the end, you’ll know exactly what to look for and feel confident picking a harness that suits your puppy right now.
What type of harness is best for a puppy, and why it matters now
If you’ve ever stared at a wall of harness options in a pet shop — or fallen down a rabbit hole of reviews online — you’re in good company. Most new puppy parents feel completely overwhelmed at this stage, and that’s understandable. There are a lot of choices. But it’s genuinely worth getting this right, because the harness you pick now will play a real role in how your puppy learns to walk on the lead.
Here’s the thing: puppies aren’t just small adult dogs. Their bodies are still growing, their confidence is easily knocked, and their lead manners at eight or twelve weeks are, let’s be honest, basically zero. A well-fitted harness does two important things during this stage — it keeps pressure away from the throat and neck when your puppy inevitably lunges at a leaf or another dog, and it gives you a calmer, safer way to guide them without causing discomfort or creating bad associations with walking.
The honest answer to what type of harness is best for a puppy is: it depends. Your puppy’s size, their temperament, how they feel about being handled, and where you are in training all influence the decision. A nervous, wriggly pup needs something different from a bold little Labrador who’s already trying to tow you down the street.
The three things you’ll need to compare before buying are clip position, harness style, and sizing. This guide walks you through all of them. And if you’re still pulling together the rest of your puppy kit, our everything for your puppy collection is worth a browse alongside this.
Front-clip or back-clip: which helps your puppy walk nicely?
One of the first things new puppy parents puzzle over is what type of harness is best for a puppy that’s still working out how to walk on a lead. The honest answer? It comes down to behaviour. Where the lead clips on has a real effect on how much control you have and how your puppy moves, so matching the clip position to where your puppy is right now makes a genuine difference from the very first walk.
Front-Clip Harness
Back-Clip Harness
Best for
Puppies who pull or lunge
Calm or settled walkers
How it works
Lead attaches at the chest, redirecting forward momentum
Lead attaches at the back, allowing natural movement
Walking benefit
Gives you gentle steering control
Comfortable and unrestrictive
Ideal puppy type
Energetic, easily distracted breeds
Smaller breeds or puppies already walking well
Front-clip harnesses work well when:
Your puppy charges ahead the moment they spot another dog, a leaf, anything
You want a puppy no-pull harness that gently discourages pulling without causing discomfort
You need a bit more steering control during early lead training
Back-clip harnesses are a good fit when:
Your puppy is already fairly calm and consistent on the lead
You have a smaller breed who feels more relaxed with less restriction across the chest
Walks are short, low-key, and close to home
Still in the pulling-everything stage? A front-clip style gives you more to work with. If your puppy is already walking reasonably well, back-clip is perfectly fine for everyday outings. This adjustable harness suits both walking styles and grows with your puppy, which makes it a solid starting point either way.
Step-in or over-the-head: choosing the style your puppy will actually tolerate
Choosing between a step-in and an over-the-head harness often comes down to one thing: how your puppy feels about getting dressed. Temperament and daily handling ease matter just as much as design features when you’re figuring out how to choose a harness for a puppy that actually works in real life.
Factor
Step-In Harness
Over-the-Head Harness
Ease of fitting
Simple for wriggly puppies
Quicker for calm, cooperative pups
Best suited temperament
Sensitive, anxious, or squirmy
Relaxed and comfortable being handled
Ideal puppy size
Works well for small breeds
Suits most sizes
Owner experience level
Great for first-time puppy parents
Suits confident handlers
Here’s where each style genuinely wins:
Step-in harnesses are a lifesaver for puppies who panic when anything passes over their head — a surprisingly common sensitivity in young dogs, especially in the early weeks at home.
They also work beautifully for small breed puppies, where threading legs through feels far more controlled than wrestling something over a tiny nose.
Over-the-head styles clip on faster once your puppy is used to them, which makes a real difference on busy mornings.
Puppies who’ve been well-handled from early on tend to settle into over-the-head designs without much fuss at all.
Neither style is universally better. The right one is simply the harness your puppy accepts calmly and that you can fit quickly and correctly every single time. If you’re still putting together your puppy’s full kit, our guide to choosing the right collar is well worth a read alongside this.
Getting the fit right: the sizing details that matter more than the label
Even the best puppy harness will let you down if it doesn’t fit properly. Too loose and it can rub, slip, or give a wriggly puppy the gap they need to back out entirely. Too tight and it restricts movement, causing discomfort on every single walk. Getting the measurements right before you buy makes a bigger difference than most people expect.
How to measure your puppy for a harness:
Measure the chest girth at its widest point, usually just behind the front legs.
Measure the neck circumference at the natural base, where the harness will actually sit rather than where a collar would.
Note your puppy’s current weight, as many harnesses use weight ranges alongside body measurements.
Check both figures against the brand’s specific size guide rather than relying on the general size label.
If your puppy falls between sizes, size down and check the fit on arrival. The larger size rarely “works itself out.”
The two-finger rule: Once the harness is on, you should be able to slide two fingers snugly under every strap. Secure enough to stay put, with just enough give that nothing pinches.
Common fit mistakes to avoid:
Buying a size up to “grow into” — a loose harness is an escape risk and can cause rubbing long before they fill it
Straps sitting across the shoulder blades, which limits your puppy’s natural stride
The harness creeping forward toward the neck when your puppy pulls
The chest plate pressing into the armpits rather than lying flat against the sternum
Puppies grow fast, so recheck the fit every few weeks and adjust straps as needed. If you’re still in the early stages of getting everything ready, our guide to bringing a new puppy home covers everything else worth thinking about before that first walk together.
Which harness works best for pullers, small breeds, and calm little walkers?
Not every puppy needs the same harness, and what type of harness is best for a puppy really comes down to two things: how they behave on a walk and how big they are.
Puppy Type
Best Harness Style
Key Reason
Puppies that pull hard
Front-clip no-pull harness
Redirects forward momentum gently without strain on the neck or shoulders
Small or toy breeds
Lightweight step-in or mesh harness
Sits comfortably on a tiny frame without adding bulk or restricting movement
Calm, easy walkers
Standard back-clip harness
Simple, fuss-free design that works well for pups who already walk nicely
Once you know which category fits your puppy, the decision gets much easier. A calm spaniel pottering around the park simply doesn’t need the same setup as a boisterous Labrador who treats every walk like a sprint. Matching features to real behaviour means you stop paying for extras that never get used.
Quick Tip: If your puppy pulls now but you’re confident training will settle things, a dual-clip harness gives you both options without buying twice. Use the front clip while you work on leash manners, then switch to the back clip once they find their rhythm.
How to pick the best puppy harness with confidence
Choosing the right harness really does come down to a handful of things you now know well. Before you buy, it helps to run through a quick mental checklist.
Start with how your puppy actually walks right now. Are they a puller, a nervous shuffler, or somewhere in between? That tells you a lot about clip position. A front-clip harness works well for puppies who charge ahead, gently steering them back towards you rather than letting momentum build. A back-clip suits calmer walkers who are already getting the hang of loose-lead walking.
Then think about your puppy’s patience levels. If they wriggle dramatically the moment something approaches their head, a step-in harness will make your morning routine far less of a battle.
From there, it is all about fit. Measure before you buy, check the sizing guide for your specific harness, and aim for that two-finger gap all the way around. A well-fitted harness is one your puppy barely notices, and that is exactly the goal.
The best puppy harness is not the most expensive one or the one with the longest list of features. It is the one your puppy wears happily, that you can get on quickly, and that makes every walk feel safe and relaxed for both of you. Browse the Lords & Labradors puppy harness range to find the right match for your pup’s size, breed, and walking stage.
Knowing how long puppies can walk is one of those questions that sounds simple until you are actually standing at the front door with an excitable eight-week-old and no idea how far to go. The answer depends on age, breed, size, and how well you learn to read your puppy’s cues along the way. This guide breaks it all down, from a handy age-by-age walking chart to practical tips for building up distance safely as your puppy grows.
How long can puppies walk? A simple guide for new puppy parents
One of the first things new puppy parents want to know is how long their puppy should be walking each day. It feels like it should have a simple answer. But watch a ten-week-old Labrador tear around the garden and you might assume he could handle anything — when in reality, how long puppies can walk safely has very little to do with how much energy they seem to have.
Age matters most, but breed, size, and overall fitness all shape the picture too. A four-month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has very different needs to a four-month-old Golden Retriever, even if both are equally determined to sniff every blade of grass along the way.
The most widely used starting point is the five-minutes-per-month rule: five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy, then, would walk for around 15 minutes at a time. It is not a rigid law, but it exists for good reason. Puppies have soft, still-developing growth plates in their bones, and too much repetitive exercise before those plates close can cause real, lasting joint damage. A puppy who seems full of energy is not necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for long walks.
This is especially worth keeping in mind in those early weeks, when everything is new and you are still finding your rhythm together. If you are just bringing your puppy home for the first time, walks are only one small part of what lies ahead — and there is absolutely no rush to do too much, too soon.
The five-minutes-per-month rule, plus a handy age-based walking guide
The five-minutes-per-month rule is one of the most widely shared pieces of puppy advice, and honestly, it’s earned its reputation. It gives you a simple, sensible starting point for figuring out how long puppies can walk at each stage of development. The idea is beautifully straightforward: allow five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy gets around 15 minutes per session; by five months, you’re looking at closer to 25.
Puppy Age
Max Walk Duration (Per Session)
Notes
8 weeks
5 minutes
Short sniff-and-explore outings only. Very gentle to start.
3 months
15 minutes
Two short walks daily is plenty. Prioritise new sights and smells over distance.
4 months
20 minutes
Puppy walking distance starts to increase slowly. Watch for signs of tiring.
5 months
25 minutes
Confidence usually grows here. Keep surfaces soft where possible.
6 months
30 minutes
Still very much a puppy, whatever their size might suggest.
9 months
45 minutes
Larger breeds especially need restraint. Growth plates are still developing.
12 months
45–60 minutes
Smaller breeds may be ready for longer walks. Always assess individually.
Good to Know: This formula is a guide, not gospel. Breed size plays a big role. Giant breeds like Great Danes may actually need less than the formula suggests, because their growth plates take longer to close. And every puppy is different — some flag earlier than you’d expect, while others seem to have boundless energy regardless. Let your individual pup lead the way.
When puppies can go for long walks really depends on breed and development, but most are ready for more substantial exercise somewhere between 12 and 18 months. Worth noting too: conditions like cold weather can cut any walk short, whatever the age. Our guide to walking your dog in cold weather is worth bookmarking before the temperature drops.
No formula replaces actually watching your puppy. If they’re lagging behind, flopping down mid-pavement, or suddenly very interested in stopping — that’s your cue to turn for home.
Why some puppies need less — or more — walking than others
The five-minute rule gives you a brilliant starting point, but every puppy is different. Breed, body shape, and a handful of other factors all influence how long your puppy can safely walk — so it’s worth looking beyond age alone before you lace up your trainers.
Breed size and growth rate: Larger breeds like Labradors and Golden Retrievers grow faster and carry more weight through their joints, making them more vulnerable to overexertion than smaller breeds at the same age.
Flat-faced breeds: Bulldogs, Pugs, and French Bulldogs overheat and tire more quickly due to restricted airways, so their walks often need to be shorter and slower.
Short-legged breeds: Dachshunds and Basset Hounds have a different skeletal structure that puts extra pressure on their spines and limbs, especially on uneven ground.
Weather and heat: Puppies struggle to regulate their temperature, so on warmer days it’s worth keeping walks shorter and heading out earlier in the morning before the heat builds.
Terrain: Rough, hilly, or slippery surfaces demand far more effort than a flat pavement stroll, even if the distance looks the same on paper.
General health: Any illness, recent vaccination, or growth-related condition can change what your puppy can comfortably handle on a given day.
One thing that catches a lot of new puppy parents off guard: a puppy who seems full of energy isn’t necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for more. Growth plates — the soft areas of developing bone — remain vulnerable to stress injury well into adolescence, long after your puppy looks completely tireless. Bouncy behaviour isn’t a green light to go further.
Getting this balance right early really does pay off. Tailoring walks to your individual puppy’s needs protects their joints through the most critical window of development, and building a thoughtful routine now sets them up for a happy, active adult life. That investment in regular exercise only becomes more rewarding as they grow.
How to build up your puppy’s walks without overdoing it
Building up walks gradually is one of the kindest things you can do for a growing puppy. It takes a little patience, but the principle is simple: start small, add time slowly, and let your puppy’s body set the pace. Their joints and growth plates are still developing, and pushing too far too soon can cause real, lasting harm.
Start short and stay consistent. Begin with just 5 to 10 minutes per outing, even if your puppy looks ready to run a marathon.
Increase time gradually. Add a few minutes each week rather than making big jumps. Puppy exercise by age should always feel comfortable and well within their limits.
Build in rest breaks. Let your puppy sniff, sit, or simply take a breather. That is not wasted time — it is part of the walk.
Mix things up. A short training stop, a good sniff of the hedgerow, or a gentle play moment all count toward mental and physical enrichment. How much exercise a puppy needs goes well beyond steps.
Choose soft ground where you can. Grass and earth are much kinder on young joints than pavement, particularly for bigger breeds.
Signs your puppy has had enough
Lagging behind or pulling toward home
Sitting or lying down mid-walk
Heavy or laboured panting
Limping or favouring a leg
Reluctance to move forward
How far puppies can walk matters far less than how well they recover afterwards. Quality always beats distance. Long walks will come — you will know your puppy is ready when they bounce home looking like they could do it all again. If you have just welcomed a new puppy and want to get the basics right from the start, our bringing a new puppy home guide is a great place to begin.
Off-lead or on-lead: what’s best for puppy walks right now?
For young puppies, on-lead walking is almost always the safer choice — and not just for the obvious traffic reasons. Walking on the lead teaches your puppy to move calmly beside you, builds focus, and helps them take in the big, noisy world without getting completely overwhelmed. It also keeps distance in check. A puppy charging after every smell, stranger, or squirrel is covering far more ground than it looks, which can quietly tip into too much exercise for joints that are still developing.
That said, off-lead time absolutely has its place. Secure, enclosed spaces where your puppy can sniff freely and potter about at their own pace offer something a structured walk simply can’t — unstructured exploration that’s genuinely tiring in the best way. It’s mentally stimulating, physically gentle, and great for confidence. The catch is recall. A puppy who doesn’t come back reliably yet is better off on a long line than given full freedom in open spaces. Get that foundation solid first, then gradually extend the trust.
Whatever setup works for you right now, good gear makes the whole thing easier. A well-fitted harness spreads pressure across the chest rather than the neck, which matters a lot when your puppy is still figuring out how to walk on a lead without bouncing off it. Paired with a quality lead — like the Lords & Labradors Herdwick Dog Lead — even a short walk feels calm and in control. The right kit really does take the friction out of those early walks, for both of you.
Waking up to a puppy crying in their crate at night is one of those experiences that tests even the most prepared new dog parent, but it almost always has a perfectly simple explanation. In this guide, you will find out what to do if puppy cries in crate at night, from quick bedtime checks and calming routines through to knowing when the crying might be worth a closer look. A few nights of broken sleep does not mean you are doing it wrong, and with the right approach, things tend to improve faster than you might expect.
Why your puppy cries in the crate at night — and why it’s usually normal
If your puppy is crying in their crate at night, the first thing to know is this: you haven’t done anything wrong, and neither has your puppy.
Nighttime crying is one of the most common experiences for new puppy parents, and it almost always means your puppy is trying to tell you something — not that they’re being difficult. Think about it from their perspective. Just days ago, they were curled up with their mum and littermates, surrounded by warmth and familiar smells, never once spending a night alone. Now they’re in a new home, a new crate, a new room, with none of those comforts to anchor them. A little protest at bedtime makes complete sense.
There are a handful of reasons why puppies cry in the crate at night, and understanding them makes it much easier to respond with confidence rather than panic. The most common ones are:
They miss their littermates. Sleeping in a warm, wriggly pile is all they’ve ever known. That kind of closeness doesn’t disappear overnight, and the adjustment takes time.
They need the toilet. Young puppies genuinely can’t hold their bladder through the night. A cry at 2am is usually a real signal, not a bid for attention.
They’re cold or uncomfortable. A crate that feels too bare or exposed won’t feel like a safe haven — it’ll just feel lonely.
They’re overwhelmed. The first week in a new home is a lot for a small dog to process. By the time bedtime rolls around, many puppies are emotionally wrung out and finding it hard to wind down.
Once you understand what the crying is actually communicating, you can respond in a way that helps rather than guesses. If you’re still putting the building blocks of your puppy’s sleep setup together, our guide to creating the perfect puppy sleep routine is well worth a read before the lights go out.
First things to check before you settle in for the night
Before you rethink your whole approach to crate training, it’s worth pausing to check the basics. A surprising number of puppies crying in the crate at night are simply reacting to something small and fixable — things that are easy to miss when you’re exhausted and just want everyone to sleep. Running through this short checklist first can save you a lot of unnecessary stress.
Last toilet trip of the night. Take your puppy outside for a toilet break right before they go into the crate, even if they went out an hour ago. A full bladder won’t let them settle, and the discomfort will quickly turn into crying.
Crate size. The crate should feel snug and safe, not vast and exposed. Your puppy needs just enough room to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Too much space can actually make them feel less secure, not more.
Room temperature. Puppies feel the cold quickly, especially once the house cools down overnight. Make sure the crate is away from draughts, and tuck in a soft, washable blanket for warmth — just avoid anything that could cause overheating.
Enough wind-down time before bed. Putting a puppy straight into the crate after a play session is a bit like trying to put a toddler to bed mid-bounce. Aim for 20 to 30 minutes of calm before lights out so their energy has genuinely settled.
Is your puppy actually tired? A puppy who hasn’t had enough activity or gentle mental stimulation during the day will find it hard to switch off at night. Short, age-appropriate play sessions in the evening make a real difference. If you’re still in those early days of settling in, the advice on bringing a new puppy home is a great place to start.
More often than not, working through this list resolves things before you need to make any bigger changes. It’s always the right place to begin.
How to build a bedtime routine that helps your puppy settle
Consistency is one of the most powerful tools you have when it comes to puppy crying in the crate at night. Puppies feel safer when they can predict what’s coming next, and a calm, repeatable bedtime sequence tells their brain it’s time to switch off. Do it the same way every night and you’ll likely notice the difference sooner than you’d expect.
Final toilet break 45 to 60 minutes before crating. Take your puppy outside for a proper sniff around and a chance to go. A puppy with a full bladder won’t settle, no matter how cosy the crate is.
Wind down activity levels. Put the squeaky toys away at least 30 minutes before bed and switch to something calmer — a gentle chew, or a quiet cuddle on the sofa. An overtired but overstimulated puppy is a recipe for a difficult night.
Set up the crate with soft, inviting bedding. A plush blanket or well-padded crate mat makes a real difference. If it’s your puppy’s first night, tuck in a worn item of your clothing so your scent is there with them. Some owners also place a ticking clock nearby, which can mimic a mother’s heartbeat.
Cover the crate. Draping a breathable cover over three sides creates a den-like feel that genuinely helps puppies settle. It cuts out visual distractions and signals that the crate is for sleeping, not watching the room.
One last quick toilet trip right before crating. Even a two-minute garden visit is worth it to reduce the chances of a 2am wake-up.
Use a calm, consistent verbal cue. Something simple — “bedtime” or “in your bed” — repeated every night helps your puppy start connecting the word with winding down.
Lights out, minimal fuss. Keep your goodnight brief and warm, then leave. Lingering makes it harder for both of you.
Quick tip: A crate cover is one of the simplest things you can do when crate training a puppy at night. Reducing what your puppy can see lowers stimulation and makes the space feel genuinely enclosed and safe, much more den than cage.
Repeat this every night and you give your puppy something they genuinely need: predictability. Over time, that familiar sequence helps shorten the adjustment period, reduces how long your puppy cries in the crate, and builds quiet confidence in both of you.
What to do if your puppy cries after you’ve put them to bed
Knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is one of those things nobody quite prepares you for. You’re tired, your heart is a little broken, and you just want everyone to sleep. The good news is that you don’t have to choose between leaving them to it completely and rushing straight in every time. A calm, considered response is almost always the right middle ground.
There are two situations genuinely worth getting up for. The first is a toilet trip — especially in the early weeks, when young puppies simply can’t hold their bladder through the night. If your puppy is under 12 weeks, or hasn’t been out recently, a quiet trip outside makes sense. The second is brief reassurance for a puppy still adjusting to sleeping alone. A soft word through the crate, or just a moment nearby, can help settle them without building a bigger habit around it.
The mistake worth avoiding: going to them every single time they cry.
Puppies are quick learners. If calling out reliably brings you back into the room, they’ll keep doing it — not out of stubbornness, but because it works. Even well-meaning responses can accidentally teach them that crying is the way to get your attention. You end up reinforcing the very thing you’re trying to stop.
When your puppy cries, try these calm responses instead:
Wait a minute or two before going in, to see if they settle on their own
If you do go to them, keep your voice low and calm with no excitement or fuss
Any toilet trips should be short, boring, and dimly lit
Avoid eye contact, play, or picking them up unless it’s truly necessary
Return them to the crate straightaway and leave without lingering
Most puppies start to find their rhythm within a few nights once they learn that bedtime is quiet, consistent, and uneventful. The calmer and more predictable you can be, the sooner they’ll get there. And if you want to set the foundations before that first night even arrives, these tips for bringing a new puppy home are a brilliant place to start.
When crying points to something more than a rough first night
Most puppies cry in the crate at night simply because everything feels new and a little overwhelming. That’s completely normal. But part of knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is recognising when something beyond first-night nerves might be going on.
These are the signs worth paying closer attention to:
Crying that gets louder or more frantic after 30 to 60 minutes, rather than gradually fading
Repeated accidents in the crate despite a toilet break right before bed
Frantic pacing, spinning, or determined attempts to scratch or chew their way out
Refusing food, water, or treats anywhere near the crate
A sudden return to distressed crying in a puppy who had previously been settling well
Normal whining vs. genuine distress: what’s the difference?
Normal whining tends to be intermittent, softens over several nights, and doesn’t come with any physical symptoms. Genuine distress looks different. The crying escalates instead of easing, shows little improvement after a week, and may come alongside panting, drooling, or repetitive self-soothing behaviours like circling or excessive licking.
If your puppy is showing physical symptoms alongside the crying — vomiting, diarrhoea, lethargy, or anything that suggests pain or illness — contact your vet. Don’t wait to see if it passes. If the crate itself seems to be the source of real fear rather than just mild protest, a qualified trainer or behaviourist can help you work through it in a way that feels manageable.
It’s also worth thinking about timing. Introducing the crate too young or too abruptly can make the whole process harder than it needs to be. If you’re unsure whether your puppy is ready, our guide on how old you should be before crate training a puppy is a helpful starting point.
Catching these signs early makes a real difference — for your puppy, and for your sleep.
A calmer night starts with consistency, comfort, and a bit of patience
Crate training takes time, and the first few nights are almost always the hardest. But stick with a consistent bedtime routine, respond calmly when your puppy cries, and make their space feel genuinely cosy — and things really do get easier. Most puppies settle into a rhythm faster than their bleary-eyed owners expect.
The small things matter more than you might think. A right-sized crate, placed somewhere warm and familiar, with soft bedding your puppy actually wants to curl into, sets the tone for the whole night. Something like the Cosy Calming Puppy Crate Bed can genuinely help here — giving your puppy a snug, den-like space to settle into rather than somewhere bare and unfamiliar.
Your response matters just as much as the setup. Keeping bedtime predictable, staying consistent, and not rushing in at every whimper all help your puppy learn that the crate is safe and that you are close by. It takes repetition, but it builds real confidence over time.
If you have been lying awake wondering what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night, here is the honest answer: check the basics, build a routine, and give it time. Progress is rarely dramatic, but it is steady. One night you will realise the crying has stopped, the whimpering has faded, and everyone in the house is finally getting some sleep. Those mornings feel very well earned.
Planning air travel with your large furry companion feels overwhelming at first, but understanding how big dogs travel on planes becomes much simpler once you know the essentials. From selecting the perfect travel crate and navigating airline policies to preparing your gentle giant for the journey ahead, this guide walks you through every step of making air travel a comfortable experience for both you and your beloved pet. With the right preparation and knowledge, you’ll transform what seems like a daunting process into a manageable adventure that gets your four-legged family member safely to your destination.
Understanding Airline Policies for Big Dogs
When you’re planning to fly with your gentle giant, understanding how big dogs travel on planes starts with accepting that most large breeds simply won’t squeeze into the cabin with you. While airlines typically welcome pets under 20 pounds in carriers beneath the seat, your Labrador, German Shepherd, or Golden Retriever will need to journey in the aircraft’s pressurized cargo hold.
Every airline writes its own rulebook for large dog travel, so dig into specific policies well before you book anything. British Airways accepts dogs up to 75kg including their crate, while Virgin Atlantic sets slightly different limits. Most major carriers require advance reservations for pet cargo—sometimes weeks ahead during peak travel times when everyone seems to be flying with their four-legged family members.
Here’s some reassuring news: cargo holds on passenger planes are pressurized and climate-controlled, just like where you’ll be sitting. Your dog won’t endure a cold, dark journey below. That said, airlines often impose seasonal restrictions during extreme weather to protect pets from temperature swings during ground handling—those tarmac waits can be brutal in July or January.
Size rules extend beyond simple weight calculations. Airlines measure your dog and travel crate together, making a well-fitted carrier crucial for meeting requirements. While some carriers restrict certain breeds due to breathing issues, this typically affects flat-faced dogs like bulldogs rather than most large breeds.
International travel brings extra layers of paperwork and planning. EU destinations require pet passports, while countries like Australia mandate lengthy quarantine periods. Contact your destination’s agricultural department months ahead—these requirements aren’t suggestions, and last-minute scrambling rarely ends well.
Here’s something learned through experience: always book directly with airlines when traveling with pets. Third-party booking sites often miss crucial details about pet reservations, leaving you stranded at check-in. Direct booking also lets you communicate special needs and ensures your dog’s spot is properly secured, which matters since many airlines limit pets per flight.
Budget carriers frequently don’t accept pets at all, while premium airlines usually offer more thoughtful pet services. When comparing options, consider the airline’s animal transport reputation alongside their pet fees—your dog’s comfort and safety are worth the extra research.
Choosing the Right Travel Crate for Your Big Dog
Your crate choice can make or break your big dog’s flying experience. Airlines will turn dogs away at check-in if their crate doesn’t meet strict safety standards, and even if you clear that hurdle, the wrong crate puts your furry friend at risk during the flight. Getting this decision right protects both your travel plans and your dog’s wellbeing.
When selecting a travel crate for your large dog, focus on these essential features:
IATA approval certification - Look for the official International Air Transport Association stamp, which ensures the crate meets global airline standards
Adequate ventilation on multiple sides - Your dog needs proper airflow during the journey, with ventilation openings covering at least 16% of the total wall space
Heavy-duty latching system - Secure metal latches and bolts prevent accidental opening during baggage handling
Proper sizing with room to move - Your dog should be able to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably without the crate being oversized
Reinforced construction materials - Sturdy plastic or fiberglass construction that can withstand the rigors of cargo handling
Leak-proof bottom design - Prevents accidents from affecting other cargo and keeps your dog comfortable
Here’s what many pet parents don’t realize: your dog will likely spend hours in this crate, from check-in through baggage claim. That’s why comfort features matter just as much as safety requirements. Quality travel crates designed specifically for large breeds address both needs seamlessly. The Lords & Labradors Silver Deluxe Dog Crate collection exemplifies this balance, offering sizes up to XXL with airline-compliant features that give pet parents confidence when preparing big dogs for air travel.
Think of the right crate as more than just meeting airline requirements. It becomes your dog’s safe haven during the stressful airport experience, giving them a familiar, secure space when everything else feels overwhelming.
Preparing Your Big Dog for Air Travel
Getting your large dog ready for air travel takes patience and planning, but the effort pays off when you see your furry friend handle the journey with confidence. The key to understanding how big dogs travel on planes successfully lies in thorough preparation—it’s what transforms a potentially stressful ordeal into a manageable adventure for everyone involved.
Essential Preparation Steps:
Start crate training 4-6 weeks early - Begin with short periods in the travel crate during meal times, gradually increasing duration until your dog sees it as their cozy den, not a prison. My friend Sarah’s Golden Retriever initially whined for twenty minutes straight, but by week three, he was voluntarily napping in there.
Schedule a pre-travel vet visit - Most airlines require health certificates issued within 10 days of travel. Your vet can also recommend anxiety management strategies tailored to your dog’s personality—some dogs benefit from compression wraps, while others need prescription calming aids.
Practice airport sounds and scenarios - Play recordings of plane engines, airport announcements, and bustling crowds at home while your dog relaxes in their crate. YouTube has excellent “airport ambiance” videos that work perfectly for this desensitization training.
Introduce familiar comfort items - Pack a well-loved blanket or your old t-shirt in the crate. These familiar scents provide reassurance when everything else feels foreign and overwhelming.
Adjust feeding schedule gradually - Start feeding your dog 4-6 hours before departure time in the weeks leading up to travel. This prevents motion sickness and gives their digestive system time to adapt to the new routine.
Consider calming supplements - If your dog tends toward anxiety, discuss natural calming aids with your vet well before travel day. Testing effectiveness takes time—you don’t want to discover on departure morning that melatonin makes your pup drowsy instead of calm.
Practice car trips to simulate travel day - Load the crate in your car for progressively longer drives, mimicking the transport experience to the airport.
Planning Timeline: Start preparation 4-6 weeks before your departure date. This timeline gives your dog space to adjust gradually and lets you identify any issues early enough to address them properly.
Every dog adapts differently to new experiences, so watch for your pet’s individual responses and adjust accordingly. Those weeks you invest in preparing your large dog for air travel create the foundation for a calmer, more confident traveler—and a much less anxious pet parent.
Packing Essentials for Your Dog’s Flight
Understanding how big dogs travel on planes successfully starts with smart packing—the difference between a nerve-wracking journey and one where you can breathe easy knowing your pup has everything they need. Since your large dog will spend the flight in cargo, every item you pack becomes their lifeline to comfort and safety during those hours apart from you.
What to pack for your big dog’s flight:
Familiar bedding or blanket - That old throw from the couch that smells like home? Perfect. It’ll provide emotional comfort when everything else feels unfamiliar
Spill-proof water and food dishes - Attach these securely to the crate door so ground crew can refill them without opening the crate
24-hour food supply - Pack extra kibble in a clearly labeled bag attached to the crate—flight delays happen, and you want your dog fed on schedule
Favorite comfort toy - Choose something sturdy that won’t fall apart if they get anxious and give it extra attention
Complete health documentation - Vaccination records, health certificates, and your vet’s contact info, all in a waterproof pouch
Emergency contact card - Your phone number, destination details, and any special care instructions clearly written and attached to the crate
Absorbent bedding material - Layer puppy training pads or newspaper under their blanket for accidents during the long journey
Backup leash and collar with ID tags - Pack extras with current contact details—things can get misplaced during baggage handling
Important: Airlines require water and food dishes to be accessible from outside the crate without opening the door. This isn’t just bureaucracy—it’s how ground crew can care for your dog during layovers.
While products like our Ultimate Weekaway Bag work beautifully for small dogs traveling in-cabin, big dog parents need to pack everything directly into or onto the travel crate itself. Think of the crate as your dog’s temporary home—stock it like you would for an overnight stay.
Navigating the Airport with Your Big Dog
Airport procedures for large dogs require more time and coordination than flying with smaller pets, but with the right preparation, you can navigate the process smoothly. Unlike small dogs that travel in the cabin, your big dog will go through a specialized check-in process that involves multiple departments and additional paperwork.
Here’s the step-by-step airport process for flying with large dogs:
Arrive at least 3-4 hours early for domestic flights and 4-5 hours for international travel to allow extra time for paperwork and crate inspection
Complete check-in at the special services counter where airline staff will review your dog’s health certificates, verify crate requirements, and process cargo documentation
Proceed to the designated pet drop-off area where your dog’s crate will be inspected and your pup will be transferred to the cargo handling team
Complete your own security screening and head to your gate, knowing your dog is in professional hands
Board your flight with the peace of mind that your dog was loaded safely onto the same aircraft
Keep your large dog calm during airport hustle with these tried-and-true strategies:
Pack familiar items like their favorite blanket or toy in an organized travel bag to provide comfort during the check-in process
Take frequent potty breaks in designated pet relief areas before the final crate time
Speak in soothing tones and maintain your usual calm energy—our dogs are emotional mirrors, picking up on every bit of our stress
Bring high-value treats to reward good behavior during inspections and handling
Consider using calming supplements recommended by your vet if your dog is particularly anxious
I’ll be honest: patience is your secret weapon here. Airport staff handling large dogs know their stuff, but procedures naturally take longer than standard check-ins. When you build in that extra time buffer, you remove the pressure that makes both you and your dog tense. Your Golden Retriever doesn’t need to sense your panic about missing the flight on top of everything else they’re processing in that busy, unfamiliar environment.
Post-Flight Care for Your Big Dog
After touching down, your big dog will likely feel a mix of relief and disorientation. Just like we need a moment to collect ourselves after a long flight, your furry companion deserves some gentle care to help them transition back to solid ground.
Start with hydration. Offer small amounts of water every few minutes rather than letting them gulp down a whole bowl at once. Their stomach might be a bit unsettled from the journey, and you want to avoid any digestive upset on top of travel stress.
Once you’ve collected your luggage and found a quiet spot, give your dog a chance to stretch and relieve themselves. Airport pet relief areas are perfect for this, but if you’re already outside, any grassy area will do. Don’t be surprised if they seem a bit wobbly or clingy at first. My friend’s Golden Retriever, Max, practically glued himself to her side for the first hour after his cross-country flight.
Keep a close eye on their behavior over the next 24 hours. Some dogs bounce back immediately, while others might seem quieter than usual or have slightly different eating patterns. This is completely normal. Watch for excessive panting, lethargy that lasts more than a day, or any signs of illness that seem unusual for your dog.
Consider keeping their routine gentle for the first day or two. Short walks instead of long hikes, familiar foods, and plenty of rest will help them readjust. Remember, just like bringing home a new family member requires patience and care, helping your big dog recover from air travel is all about taking things slowly and following their lead.
At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog. Luxury dog crates...
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At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog.
Luxury dog crates
All our deluxe dog crates are made from pet-safe metal and feature removable trays to make them practical and super easy to clean. With sizes ranging from small to XXL, there’s a dog crate set to suit all breeds. Crates are essential when it comes to house training your new puppy. We always suggest buying a larger size dog crate and bed for your puppy so they can grow into it, saving you from having to purchase a new crate when they’re older.
Luxury crate bedding
Our luxury bedding is hand-crafted and designed to the highest quality, appearing both practical and stylish. Bumpers sit around the edge of the crate cushion to provide a super-soft wall of comfort for your pooch. All our bumpers and cushions feature waterproof linings in case of any accidents. It’s recommended to choose a dog crate with a cover – they’ll provide your draughty, bare cage with a fresh new look and offer some privacy for your dog too. They’re particularly great for helping young puppies settle into their night-time routines and offer nervous dogs an extra feeling of security.
Purchase your dog crate set online today
Treat your four-legged friend to one of our stylish dog crate, cover, bedding and bumper sets by browsing our online range today. If you’re struggling to decide which one would be perfect for your pooch, contact our team today who will be more than happy to help. You’ll have 28 days to return your product if you’re unhappy with it for any reason. Our Lords & Labradors items also come with a 365-day quality guarantee, so it’s easy to see why we’ve received so many positive reviews. We also offer free delivery on all orders over £75. Browse the range and order your dog crate set today.
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