Keep your dog occupied by choosing from a variety of dog toys at Lords & Labradors. Different toys are suited to different personalities, so whether your pup wants a collection of dog teddies or is happy with a squeaky dog toy, we have everything you need to keep them happy.
Part of being a dog parent is choosing toys and watching your dog love and play with the new toy you took time picking out because you knew they’d love it! Part of the frustration of being a dog parent is finding broken and damaged parts of a toy all around your home after your dog has ripped their lovely new toy apart! Our dogs seem to enjoy the destruction of their toys, but why is their instinct to destroy their toys so quickly? In this blog, we discuss why your dog destroys their toys.
Why Does My Dog Destroy His Toys
There are several reasons your dog will rip open their toys, and it’ll depend on the type of toy too. A plush toy may take minutes for them to destroy, where as a chew toy may take longer for them to get through. Ultimately, dog toys are designed to trigger their prey instinct and to keep boredom at bay. Every dog needs to release their energy from time to time, and if your dog is naturally high in energy, you might find they rip open their toys to create their own fun. If your dog does need to release their energy, try a puzzle toy which will reward them for using their brain and paws to get into their treat.
Although it may seem odd to us, destroying their toys will be fun to your dog. They’ll get immense satisfaction and mental stimulation after ripping open their toys, often panting in delight, proud of themselves. Although it seems like great fun, do monitor your dog whilst they’re destroying their toys to keep an eye on any potential choking hazards.
If you’re looking for an ‘indestructible’ dog toy, unfortunately it’s unlikely you’ll find one suitable for your pup. There are toys that your dog will find harder to destroy, however dog toys can’t be indestructible due to damage to your pups’ teeth/jaws. So, it’s best to buy the toys your dog can destroy safely – you can find our range of plush, squeak free, chew and squeaky toys here.
Why Do Dogs Shake Their Toys?
You may be wondering why your dog shakes their head aggressively with a toy in their mouth – this is their ‘shake and kill’ instinct coming through from their wolf ancestors. In the wild, the shaking would disorient and immobilise your dog’s prey. You’ll find this instinct is more prevalent in a hunting breed, such as a Labrador or Beagle, and they’ll destroy plush toys especially with squeakers quite quickly.
Are Dog Toys Meant To Be Destroyed?
Dog toys are designed to exercise your dogs prey instincts, however it is important if your dog does rip open their toys, to discard of the toy as soon as the toy becomes unsafe. You should remove anything inedible to avoid your dog ingesting anything they shouldn’t. This applies to all toys, even rubber toys once they rip/tear.
When it comes to engaging our canine companions in physical activities, fetch undoubtedly tops the list. The exhilaration of a well-executed throw and the boundless enthusiasm with which our dogs retrieve the thrown object are unparalleled joys for both pet and owner. To elevate this classic game of fetch, investing in the right dog throwing toys is paramount. In this comprehensive guide, we explore the best dog throwing toys on the market, ensuring your furry friend enjoys hours of playful exercise and stimulation.
The Significance of Dog Throw Toys
Dog throw toys, also known as dog throwing toys or throw and fetch dog toys, serve as a vital component of a dog's mental and physical well-being. These toys facilitate active play that enhances coordination, agility, and endurance in dogs. Additionally, they promote a strong bond between pets and their owners, as the shared activity fosters trust and connection. In the following sections, we delve into a curated selection of the best dog throwing toys, catering to various preferences and needs.
Our Top 5 Dog Throwing Toys
1. Chuckit! Sport Ball Launcher
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The Chuckit! Sport Ball Launcher is a pioneer in the realm of dog throwing toys. Designed for maximum throwing distance, this device allows you to effortlessly propel a range of compatible balls, from tennis balls to rubber balls.
Its ergonomic handle ensures a comfortable grip, reducing strain on your arm during extended play sessions. With its compatibility across different ball types, the Chuckit! Sport Ball Launcher is a versatile option suitable for dogs of all sizes.
2. GiGwi TPR Bone 'Flying Tug'
For pet owners seeking a more gentle and flexible option, the GiGwi TPR Bone 'Flying Tug' is a standout choice. Crafted from durable TPR material, this bone-shaped toy combines the thrill of fetch with an interactive tug-of-war element. The flexible yet sturdy design ensures a comfortable grip for both you and your dog. Its aerodynamic structure guarantees stable flight, making it perfect for outdoor play sessions that involve long throws.
What sets the GiGwi TPR Bone Flying Tug apart is its dual-purpose nature – serving as a flying toy for fetching and a tug toy for interactive playtime. This versatile toy not only engages your dog's body but also stimulates their mind, making it a well-rounded option for hours of play. The GiGwi TPR Bone 'Flying Tug' is a superb choice for pet owners who want to cater to their dog's fetch and tug preferences simultaneously.
3. KONG Squeak Air Tennis Ball with Rope
Embrace the wonders of technology with the KONG Squeak Air Tennis Ball with Rope. This innovative throwing toy adds a delightful twist to the classic game of fetch. The combination of a tennis ball and an attached rope creates an engaging dynamic that encourages interactive play.
The durable tennis ball is designed to emit an enticing squeak, further captivating your dog's attention and enhancing the excitement of the game.
The attached rope allows for easy throwing and provides an interactive element for tugging and shaking. This toy offers both mental and physical stimulation, ensuring your dog stays active and entertained for extended periods. The KONG Squeak Air Tennis Ball with Rope is a fantastic option for pet owners seeking a versatile and engaging throwing toy that adds an extra layer of fun to every fetch session.
4. Nerf Dog Tennis Ball Blaster
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The Nerf Dog Tennis Ball Blaster merges classic fetch with a playful twist. This toy doubles as a launcher and a ball blaster, allowing for exciting solo play. Simply load a tennis ball into the blaster, pull back the mechanism, and release to launch the ball with impressive distance. Its hands-free pickup feature ensures that you can avoid touching slobbery or muddy balls. The Nerf Dog Tennis Ball Blaster is a fantastic option for interactive fun in various outdoor settings.
5. Chuckit! Ultra Ball
The Chuckit! Ultra Ball is a must-have accessory for any dog throwing toy collection. This bouncy and durable ball is designed for long-lasting play, with an enticing texture that encourages dogs to fetch and carry it. Its buoyant nature makes it suitable for water-based play as well, adding versatility to your fetch sessions. The bright colors of the Chuckit! Ultra Ball ensure high visibility, even in tall grass or water.
In conclusion, the world of dog throwing toys offers a plethora of options to suit every dog's personality, play style, and size. By investing in high-quality throw and fetch dog toys, you provide your furry friend with not only physical exercise but also mental stimulation and a strengthened bond with you. Whether you opt for the Chuckit! Sport Ball Launcher, the Nerf Tennis Ball Blaster, or any other option mentioned, the joy and health benefits derived from interactive play are immeasurable. So, seize the opportunity to enhance your fetch game and create cherished memories with your four-legged companion.
Fetching a ball is not only a classic dog game but also an excellent exercise to stimulate your furry friend both mentally and physically. Teaching your dog to fetch requires patience, consistency, and a well-structured approach. In this guide, we will walk you through the step-by-step process of training your dog to fetch, whether it's a playful puppy or a mature companion.
Why do dogs like fetch?
Engaging in a game of fetch extends beyond mere entertainment—it fosters a dynamic interplay of energy expenditure and cherished companionship for both canine and human participants. Yet, delving into the roots of a dog's penchant for fetch unveils an intricate interplay of innate instincts and their desire to please their human counterparts. The act of chasing and dutifully returning an object encapsulates a canine's earnest aspiration to accomplish a task that resonates with their loyalty-driven nature. The allure amplifies, particularly when rewards are involved, rendering the endeavour a fulfilling gesture in their eyes.
Upon the fling of the ball, an intrinsic script unfurls within a dog's being. The ball's trajectory simulates the erratic movement of potential prey, a visual cue that prompts a primal reflex. This reflex, honed through generations of predatory heritage, compels the dog to retrieve the object, the echoes of their forebears reverberating in this playful pursuit. An intricate symphony of neural pathways culminates in the release of dopamine, activating their reward centres, and consequently magnifying the joy they derive from this interactive sport—mirroring the exhilaration of the hunt itself.
However, not all canines possess an equal fervour for fetch. Their breed and temperament interlace to determine their disposition toward this spirited game. For breeds steeped in their hunting lineage, such as Cocker Spaniels and Border Terriers, the act of capturing and returning a tossed ball epitomises an intrinsic yearning. This yearning, stemming from their primal impulse, thrives as an end in itself, fusing reward and satisfaction within the act of fetch.
In the tapestry of the dog-human relationship, fetch knits a narrative that stretches back through generations of cooperation, instinct, and companionship.
A Step by Step Guide To Teaching Your Dog Fetch
Understanding the Basics of Fetch
Before diving into the training process, it's essential to understand the fundamental concepts of fetch. Fetch involves five main steps:
Throwing the ball,
Chasing the ball,
Picking the ball up,
Bringing the ball back to you
Dropping the ball ready for you to throw again.
1. Choosing The Perfect Ball
Selecting the appropriate equipment can greatly influence your dog's ability to learn how to fetch. Opt for a ball or toy that is safe, durable, and easy for your dog to carry in its mouth. Tennis balls and rubber fetch toys are popular choices. Additionally, ensure you're in an enclosed area to prevent your dog from running off with the toy.
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For fetch we love the KONG Squeak Air balls which come in a range of sizes perfect for any dog and we also love the Chuckit Fetch Medley which includes three unique balls, each adding its own spin to fetch. Both Chuckit and KONG have their own ball launchers which make throwing long distances so much easier.
2. Introduce the Toy
Begin by introducing the ball or toy to your dog. Allow them to sniff and interact with it, creating a positive association. Playfully engage with the toy to spark your dog's curiosity, if your dog sees you being excited with the ball they will start to get excited about the ball too.
3. Use Positive Reinforcement
Positive reinforcement is key when teaching your dog to fetch. Reward your dog with treats, praise, or petting for any interaction with the toy. Gradually increase the criteria for rewards, only offering them when your dog shows interest in picking up the toy.
4. Teaching Retrieval
To teach your dog to retrieve, start by tossing the toy a short distance away. Encourage your dog to go after it by using an enthusiastic tone. If your dog picks up the toy and starts coming back, celebrate their success and reward them upon return.
5. Adding the "Drop" Command
Teaching your dog to drop the ball is another important aspect of fetch and is often the part of fetch most dog owners struggle with. When your dog returns to you, hold a treat close to their nose while giving the command "drop." As they release the toy to take the treat, reinforce the action with praise. If your dog is struggling with dropping the ball try playing the swap and drop game. For this you will need two balls, ones with a squeaker in tend to work better for this game. Begin by tossing the first ball, and when your enthusiastic pup dashes to retrieve it, introduce the second ball as a playful enticement - start squeaking the ball to entice them back.
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Once your pup returns to you, whether clutching the first toy or not, send the second ball off in a new direction. Seize the moment to pick up the first toy as they chase the second one. Now, let the delightful cycle commence: toss one ball, tease with the other. The excitement will likely build to a point where your pup can't wait to get that next toy, and the magic happens – dropping the first toy and happily loping it back to you. This joyful anticipation will gradually turn into habit, setting the stage for your dog to graduate to fetching with a solo toy.
6. Progress Gradually
As your dog becomes more comfortable with fetching, you can gradually increase the distance you throw the toy. Maintain the positive reinforcement and excitement throughout the training process.
7. Stay Patient and Consistent
Remember, every dog learns at their own pace. Be patient and maintain a consistent training routine. Keep sessions short and engaging, ending on a positive note to keep your dog excited about fetch.
8. Practice Makes Perfect
Consistent practice is the key to success. Regularly engage in fetch sessions with your dog to reinforce their skills and build a strong bond between you two.
In conclusion, teaching a dog to fetch is a rewarding endeavour that fosters both mental stimulation and physical activity. By following the steps outlined in this guide and tailoring them to your dog's unique personality, you'll be well on your way to enjoying countless hours of fetch-filled fun. So, grab that ball, get out there, and embark on an exciting journey of teaching your dog the art of fetch!
Dogs, like humans, have unique preferences when it comes to toys. One of the interesting choices dog owners often face is between silent and squeaky dog toys. Both types of toys have their advantages, and a dog's preference for one over the other can vary based on their personality, age, and individual preferences.
With their soft topknot, long low body, and centuries of Scottish Border history behind them, Dandie Dinmont Terriers are one of the most fascinating and underappreciated breeds around. In this guide, we’ll cover everything from the Dandie Dinmont Terrier’s quirky origins and day-to-day temperament to grooming, health, and what life with one actually looks like. Whether you’re already smitten or just starting your research, you’re in the right place.
What is a Dandie Dinmont Terrier, and why is this little dog so distinctive?
If you’ve ever spotted a dog that looks like it belongs in an old painting, there’s a good chance it was a Dandie Dinmont Terrier. This charming little breed has one of the most distinctive outlines in the dog world: short legs, a deep chest, a long, low body, and that wonderfully soft topknot that gives the face such a gentle, unmistakable expression. Once you’ve seen a Dandie, you tend to remember it.
Of course, the Dandie Dinmont Terrier breed is about much more than looks. These dogs are full of character. They’re confident, independent, and quietly determined, but often calmer and more composed than people expect from a terrier. If you love the idea of a small dog with plenty of personality, but without the constant bounce some terriers are known for, a Dandie can feel like a lovely middle ground.
They’re also quite rare, so meeting one often feels special. And while they may share that long-and-low shape with other breeds, their look and presence are entirely their own. If you’re preparing for life with a compact dog, our guide to everything you need for your new Dachshund can still be a helpful starting point for home set-up ideas. In this guide, we’ll walk through Dandie Dinmont Terrier temperament, grooming, health, and everyday care.
The Dandie Dinmont Terrier’s Scottish roots and the story behind the name
Few dogs come with a story quite as captivating as this one. The Dandie Dinmont Terrier traces its roots to the rugged border country between Scotland and northern England, where it earned its keep tackling otters, badgers, and other determined quarry across some of Britain’s most unforgiving terrain. This was a dog bred for real work, not appearances.
The name, though, comes not from a place but from a page. When Sir Walter Scott published Guy Mannering in 1815, one of its most beloved characters was Dandie Dinmont, a jovial Border farmer who kept a pack of plucky little terriers. Readers fell for him immediately, and breeders soon adopted the name for the real dogs that had inspired his fictional pack. That makes the Dandie Dinmont Terrier one of the very few breeds in the world named after a fictional owner rather than a place, a purpose, or a real person.
A few things worth knowing about where the breed came from:
It developed across the Scottish Borders and Northumberland, shaped by farmers and huntsmen who needed a dog with genuine grit
It is considered one of Britain’s oldest terrier types, with records stretching back several centuries
Its compact but sturdy build made it well suited to going underground after quarry
It featured in some of the earliest British dog show records, establishing it as a recognised breed long before modern registries existed
That mix of working toughness and literary heritage gives the Dandie Dinmont a character all of its own, and it remains one of the most quietly fascinating among Britain’s favourite dogs.
What is a Dandie Dinmont Terrier like to live with?
Living with a Dandie Dinmont Terrier is never dull. The temperament is a genuinely fascinating mix: all the grit and determination you’d expect from a working terrier, wrapped up in a surprisingly affectionate, often comical little companion who will absolutely make you laugh on a daily basis.
Here’s what day-to-day life with one actually looks like:
Confident and fearless around much bigger dogs, with zero hesitation
Stubborn in the best and most exhausting way — once they’ve made up their mind, you’re negotiating, not instructing
Deeply loyal to their family, often picking one or two people as their true inner circle
Genuinely funny, with a clownish streak that tends to surface at exactly the right moment
Happy to play hard and then spend the evening curled up beside you on the sofa
Independent enough to entertain themselves, but they still want to know you’re close by
Calm and settled indoors, which makes them easier to live with than many terrier breeds
Those traits shape daily life in practical ways. A Dandie Dinmont Terrier doesn’t need marathon walks, but they do need mental stimulation — a bored Dandie will find their own entertainment, and you probably won’t enjoy what they come up with. Puzzle feeders, scent games, and short training sessions tend to hit the spot. They suit calmer households well, and owners who can read a dog with strong opinions will get the most from them.
If you want a dog with real character and a healthy streak of cheek, a Dandie Dinmont Terrier will absolutely deliver.
Dandie Dinmont Terrier care: grooming, exercise, feeding, and health basics
Dandie Dinmont Terrier care is more straightforward than you might expect, but this breed does ask for a little consistency. Get the basics right and you’ll have a happy, healthy companion who slots comfortably into everyday life.
Coat grooming: The Dandie’s double coat needs hand-stripping or professional trimming every 8 to 12 weeks to stay in good shape. In between, give the soft topknot a regular brush to keep tangles at bay.
Daily exercise: Two short walks a day suits this breed well. They’re lively but not high-maintenance, and a good sniff around the garden genuinely counts for something.
Feeding: Portion control really matters with a small, sturdy dog. Choose a quality food suited to their size and age, and try to resist those pleading eyes at the dinner table — Dandies put on weight more easily than you’d think.
Dental hygiene: Regular tooth brushing helps prevent the dental issues common in smaller breeds. A few minutes a few times a week adds up to a meaningful difference over time.
Ear checks: Those low-set, feathered ears can trap moisture and debris, so a gentle clean once a week keeps things comfortable and healthy.
Worth knowing: Dandie Dinmont Terriers have long backs relative to their leg length, which makes them prone to intervertebral disc disease (IVDD). Keeping your dog at a healthy weight and discouraging big leaps on and off the sofa are two of the most practical things you can do to protect their spine long-term.
Day to day, responsible Dandie Dinmont Terrier ownership is really about building a gentle routine and staying observant. These dogs are hardy, but small habits matter more than people realise. Having the right things to hand, whether that’s a good brush for that distinctive coat or accessories that make portion control easier, takes the fuss out of the everyday. You’ll find everything worth having in our dog essentials collection.
Is a Dandie Dinmont Terrier the right dog for your home?
The Dandie Dinmont Terrier is a dog for someone who wants a genuine companion with real character, not simply a quiet, low-maintenance lap dog. If the idea of a small breed with quiet confidence, deep loyalty, and a touch of stubbornness appeals to you, this could be a wonderful fit.
It’s worth going in with realistic expectations, though. Dandie Dinmont Terrier grooming requires regular upkeep, so if a fuss-free coat is a priority, that’s worth factoring in from the start. Training calls for patience too. Dandies are clever and curious, but they respond far better to calm, consistent handling than to any kind of force or frustration. First-time owners can absolutely thrive with this breed, though a little research goes a long way. Our guide to the best dog breeds for first-time owners is worth a read if you’re still working out which breed suits you best.
Where the Dandie Dinmont Terrier truly comes into its own is as a devoted, adaptable companion for someone who appreciates a dog with its own personality and way of doing things. Flat or house, city or countryside, this breed tends to settle happily into all kinds of homes when its needs are properly understood. If that sounds like your kind of dog, you might just have found your perfect match.
When can kittens go outside? A safe first steps guide
Figuring out what age kittens can go outside is one of those questions that feels simple until you start looking into it. This guide walks you through the key milestones your kitten needs to hit before that first adventure, how to read their emotional readiness, and a gentle step-by-step plan for making those early outdoor trips as positive as possible.
When can kittens go outside? The safest age and signs they’re ready
Most new kitten owners spend those early weeks sneaking glances out the back door, wondering when their little one will finally get to explore beyond the garden gate. It’s one of the most common questions we hear, and the honest answer is: there’s no single magic age, but there are clear milestones that tell you when the time is right.
So, what age can kittens go outside safely? For most, that’s somewhere between four and six months old. But the age itself is only part of the picture. What really matters is whether your kitten has completed their full vaccination course, been microchipped, and ideally been neutered. These aren’t just boxes to tick — they’re the things that make outdoor life genuinely safer.
Vets usually recommend waiting at least a week after the final booster before allowing any outdoor access, giving your kitten’s immune system time to build proper protection. Neutering matters too, particularly as kittens approach sexual maturity. An unneutered cat is far more likely to roam, get into scrapes, or end up lost.
There’s also the emotional side to consider. Before any outdoor adventures, your kitten needs to feel truly at home. If they’re still hiding under the sofa or startling at every noise, the outside world will feel overwhelming rather than exciting. If you’re still in those early settling-in weeks, our guide on how to settle a new kitten is a brilliant place to start.
A little patience now makes that first outdoor adventure so much better for both of you.
What needs to be in place before a kitten’s first trip outdoors
Getting the timing right isn’t just about how old your kitten is. It’s about having the right protections in place first — and skipping ahead, even by a few weeks, can leave a young cat exposed at a stage when they’re still figuring everything out.
Here’s what needs to be ticked off before that first trip outside:
Vaccinations completed. Kittens need their full primary vaccination course, usually wrapped up around 13 to 14 weeks, before heading outdoors. This protects against serious illnesses like cat flu and feline parvovirus, both of which can be picked up from other cats or contaminated ground.
Neutering done. Most vets recommend neutering from around four months. An unneutered kitten outside is far more likely to roam, get into fights, or fall pregnant long before they’re ready.
Microchipping in place. Kittens can bolt when something startles them, and a microchip is the most reliable way to bring them home if that happens. It’s a quick procedure and well worth doing before outdoor access starts.
Parasite protection sorted. Fleas, ticks, and worms become a genuine risk the moment a kitten starts nosing around grass and soil. Ask your vet about an age-appropriate treatment plan ahead of that first adventure.
Enough time settled indoors. Kittens need at least four weeks inside your home before going out so they genuinely recognise it as their safe place to return to. If you’re still in those early days, our guide on how to prepare for your new kitten is a brilliant place to start.
Work through each of these steps and you’ll head into those first outdoor moments feeling genuinely confident. Because when it comes to what age kittens can go outside, age is really just one piece of the puzzle.
How to know your kitten is emotionally ready, not just physically ready
Vaccinations and age are the most obvious boxes to tick when deciding what age kittens can go outside, but they only tell half the story. Temperament and confidence matter just as much as physical readiness, so before that first garden adventure, it’s worth taking an honest look at how your kitten is actually coping with home life. If they’re still finding their feet indoors, getting the foundations right from day one is the best thing you can do for their outdoor confidence later.
Signs your kitten is emotionally ready to explore outside:
They move around the home freely and investigate new things without hesitation
They bounce back quickly after a loud noise or surprise
They respond when you call their name or make a familiar sound
They approach new situations with curiosity rather than retreating
They settle calmly after play and aren’t constantly on edge
Signs your kitten may need a slower pace:
They hide frequently and seem reluctant to come out
They startle easily, even during normal household sounds like the kettle boiling
They show stress signals such as flattened ears, crouching low, or excessive grooming
They haven’t yet built a relaxed, confident relationship with their home environment
Some kittens, particularly timid or sensitive ones, simply need a much more gradual introduction to the outside world. That’s not a setback. It’s just good parenting.
Your kitten’s first outdoor adventures: a gentle step-by-step plan
Your kitten’s first time outside should feel calm, short, and completely safe. A gradual approach makes all the difference — it builds their confidence gently, so those early experiences feel exciting rather than overwhelming.
Choose a quiet time of day. Early mornings or late evenings tend to work best, when there’s less noise from traffic, neighbours, or other animals. The calmer the environment, the more comfortable that first outing will feel.
Start in a secure garden or enclosed patio. A fully fenced space with no obvious escape routes gives your kitten room to explore without the risk of wandering off. Let them sniff around at their own pace — there’s no rush.
Consider a harness and lead. Not every kitten takes to one straight away, but introducing it gradually indoors before that first trip outside gives you a reassuring safety net, especially in less enclosed spaces. It also keeps them close if something startles them.
Stay close and stay calm. Kittens take their cues from you. Crouching down, speaking softly, and simply being present tells them this big new world is safe to explore.
Keep sessions short. Five to ten minutes is plenty at first. Building up slowly is far kinder than one long outing that leaves them frazzled and reluctant to go back out.
Always leave the door open. Your kitten needs to know they can retreat inside quickly if something spooks them. Having that safe base to return to matters more than you might think.
Quick tip: Go outside with your kitten for every one of those first trips, without exception. Watch for flattened ears, a low crouched posture, or sudden freezing — these are all signs they need a moment back indoors.
Some kittens take to the garden like they’ve always owned it; others need several weeks of short visits before they truly relax. If you’re still weighing up the bigger picture, our guide to indoor cat or outdoor cat life is well worth a read.
What to do after the first few trips outside
Once those first outdoor sessions go well, the aim is to build a calm, consistent routine your kitten can actually rely on. Short daily trips at roughly the same time each day help them learn that going outside is a regular part of life, not a random event. Morning or early evening tends to work best when gardens are quieter and a little less full-on.
Keep a close eye on how your kitten behaves during and after each trip. Some excitement is completely normal, but if they come back inside hiding, off their food, or unsettled for hours, it’s a sign to scale back. Shorter sessions, a slower pace, more time just sitting together in the garden. Every kitten finds their feet differently, and there is genuinely no rush here.
As outdoor time increases, stay on top of flea and worm treatments. Your vet can point you towards the right products and help you figure out timing, especially once your kitten starts venturing a little further.
Over the following weeks, you can ease back on supervision and let them explore more independently. Some cats love having a bigger territory to roam. Others are perfectly content with a secure garden and a couple of hours outside each day, and that is completely fine too. If you ever find yourself wondering whether an indoor life might actually suit your cat better long-term, our guide on how to keep your indoor cat active and happy is well worth a read.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can cats go outside at 4 months?
Yes, some kittens can go outside at 4 months, but only if the important milestones are in place first. They should have finished their full vaccinations, waited at least a week after the final booster, been microchipped, ideally neutered, protected against parasites, and feel settled and confident at home.
How do I introduce my kitten to the outside?
Introduce your kitten to the outside slowly, with short supervised trips in a secure, quiet space. Pick a calm time of day, stay close, and let them explore at their own pace. A harness can help in less enclosed areas, and keeping the door open gives them an easy retreat.
Poodle cross breeds have become some of the most loved dogs in the UK, and it is not hard to see why. In this guide, we walk you through the three poodle sizes, compare the most popular doodle dog breeds side by side, and help you work out which mix is likely to suit your home, your routine and your family best. Whether you are just starting to explore or already have a shortlist, this is a practical place to begin.
Start with the three Poodle sizes: toy, miniature and standard
Before you start comparing poodle cross breeds, it helps to understand the foundation: the three purebred Poodle sizes. Almost everything else — temperament, exercise needs, grooming commitment, how well a dog fits your home — tends to follow from there.
Poodles can range in size from toy to standard, and each size brings something noticeably different to daily life. They can also be purebred or mixed with another breed, which is exactly where so many of the doodle dog breeds we know and love today come from.
So what does size actually look like in practice?
Toy Poodles are the smallest of the three, usually weighing around 4 to 6 kg. They are lively, affectionate and perfectly happy in a flat or smaller home — but do not let the compact frame fool you. They still need daily walks and plenty of mental stimulation, and they can be on the sensitive side, so they often do best in quieter households or with adults rather than young children.
Miniature Poodles sit in the middle at roughly 7 to 8 kg, and honestly, a lot of people find them the sweet spot. Energetic without being exhausting, clever without being demanding, and generally brilliant with children and other pets. If you are curious about what day-to-day life with one actually involves, our Miniature Poodle ultimate guide is a great place to dig deeper.
Standard Poodles are the largest, often reaching 20 to 30 kg, and they are genuinely athletic dogs that need space, regular exercise and a fair chunk of grooming time. What surprises most people is how calm and gentle they are indoors — for their size, they carry themselves remarkably well, which is a big part of why they make such popular family dogs.
Grooming is something worth thinking about across all three sizes before you commit. Poodles have a curly, low-shedding coat that needs brushing several times a week and a professional groom every six to eight weeks or so. Most poodle crosses inherit that same coat, so knowing what you are signing up for early on will save you a few surprises down the line.
Why poodle cross breeds are so popular with families
It’s easy to see why poodle cross breeds are such a popular choice for family life. They often bring together the Poodle’s clever, people-loving nature with the looks, temperament or energy of another breed, which gives families plenty of choice.
What makes them work so well in real life?
Often low-shedding coats can mean less hair on the sofa, stairs and school jumpers, although grooming still takes real commitment
Quick learning makes many poodle mixes easier for first-time owners to live with, especially when you keep training positive and consistent
People-focused personalities mean many poodle crosses love being involved in daily life, whether that is the school run, working from home or curling up with everyone in the evening
A choice of sizes means there is usually a better fit for your space, from smaller dogs suited to compact homes to larger doodle dog breeds that enjoy more room
Different energy levels make it easier to match a dog to your routine, whether you want an active walking buddy or a more easy-going companion
One of the biggest draws is that many poodle crosses are bright and eager to please. In everyday life, that can look like a dog who quickly learns where to settle while you answer emails, gets the hang of house rules without too much fuss, and enjoys short training sessions between family activities.
That said, no poodle cross breed is completely “easy” by default. Coat care, exercise needs and temperament can all vary depending on the mix, so it is always worth looking at both parent breeds rather than assuming all poodle crosses are the same.
For busy households, families with children and many first-time dog owners, poodle cross breeds often feel like a lovely middle ground: affectionate, adaptable and fun to live with. If Cockapoos are already on your shortlist, our complete new owner guide is a helpful next read.
The most popular poodle cross breeds and what they’re like
There are so many poodle cross breeds out there now that it can feel genuinely overwhelming trying to work out which one is right for you. Most have become popular for the same core reasons: low-shedding coats inherited from the poodle side, and temperaments that tend to suit family life well. Here is a look at the five most recognised crosses to help you start comparing them clearly.
Breed
Parent Breeds
Size Range
Coat Type
Temperament
Activity Level
Cockapoo
Cocker Spaniel x Poodle
Small to medium
Wavy to curly, low-shedding
Friendly, sociable, eager to please
Moderate
Cavapoo
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel x Poodle
Small
Soft, wavy to curly
Gentle, affectionate, calm
Low to moderate
Labradoodle
Labrador x Poodle
Medium to large
Wavy to curly, varies
Energetic, playful, outgoing
High
Goldendoodle
Golden Retriever x Poodle
Medium to large
Wavy to curly
Loyal, gentle, sociable
Moderate to high
Schnoodle
Schnauzer x Poodle
Small to large
Wiry or curly
Alert, clever, loyal
Moderate
The Cockapoo is one of the most popular poodle mixes in the UK, and it is easy to see why. Bright, bouncy and genuinely sociable, they thrive on company and do brilliantly in active family homes or with anyone who works from home and wants a dog firmly planted at their feet. Their coats need regular brushing and a trip to the groomer every few months to stay tangle-free. If you are torn between a Cockapoo and a Cavapoo, our full Cockapoo vs Cavapoo comparison is a good next read.
The Cavapoo suits a slightly quieter pace of life. Tender and affectionate by nature, they are just as happy with a steady walk and a long sofa cuddle as they are with a big adventure. Their soft coats still need regular attention, but they tend to be a gentler fit for first-time owners or families with very young children.
The Labradoodle brings real energy to the mix. Originally bred as a guide dog candidate, this is a doodle dog breed that needs proper daily exercise and mental stimulation to stay settled at home. They are wonderful with children and generally easy-going around other dogs, but they need space and an active household to truly flourish.
The Goldendoodle brings that warm, people-focused quality you get from a Golden Retriever, paired with the poodle’s natural trainability. Forgiving with first-time owners and patient with kids, they are a genuinely lovely all-rounder. That said, a medium or standard Goldendoodle needs room to stretch out, so a small flat is probably not their ideal home.
The Schnoodle gets less attention than some of the other poodle crosses, but their owners tend to be quietly devoted to them. They are sharply intelligent, a little spirited and deeply loyal to their family. Size can vary quite a bit depending on which size poodle and schnauzer were used in the pairing, so it is always worth asking breeders specifically rather than assuming.
Every one of these crosses brings something different to daily life. The best starting point is being honest with yourself about your energy levels, your home and what you genuinely want from a dog day to day.
How to choose a poodle cross that fits your home and routine
Picking a poodle cross based on a photo is an easy trap to fall into — but the dog that truly thrives in your home is the one that matches how you actually live. Before you fall for those curly ears, think honestly about your daily rhythm, your space, and who else shares your home.
Poodle Mix
Exercise Needs
Grooming Commitment
Good with Children
Good with Other Pets
Ideal Home Size
Cockapoo
Medium
High
Very good
Very good
Any
Cavapoo
Low–Medium
High
Excellent
Excellent
Flat or house
Labradoodle
High
Medium–High
Very good
Good
House with garden
Goldendoodle
High
High
Excellent
Very good
House with garden
Maltipoo
Low
Medium
Good (older children)
Good
Any
Most poodle cross breeds carry a wavy or curly coat that needs regular brushing to stay healthy and tangle-free. If you’re not sure where to begin, our guide to choosing the right brush for your dog’s coat will help you build a routine that actually sticks.
Before you decide, ask yourself these questions:
How many hours a week can I realistically commit to brushing and grooming?
Do I have young children, and does that affect the energy level I need from a dog?
How much daily exercise can I offer, on a wet Tuesday in February as much as a sunny weekend?
Are there other pets at home, and how settled are they around new arrivals?
How much living space do I have, and is there outdoor access?
The best poodle cross for you isn’t the most popular one or the prettiest one in a picture. It’s the one that slots naturally into your everyday life and feels, pretty quickly, like it was always meant to be there.
What poodle cross coats need day to day
One thing almost every owner of poodle cross breeds learns pretty quickly is that low-shedding does not mean low-maintenance. Those gorgeous curly or wavy coats need real, consistent care to stay healthy, tangle-free and comfortable — and the sooner you build a routine, the easier it gets for both of you.
Here is what that routine tends to look like in practice:
Brushing: Aim for three to four thorough sessions a week, and go daily around the ears, armpits and legs — the spots where knots sneak up fastest. A good slicker brush is a solid starting point for most doodle coat types.
Bathing: Every four to six weeks works well as a general guide, though a particularly muddy walk might move things forward. Always brush before you bathe — wet tangles set into mats quickly and are much harder to work through once dry.
Ear cleaning: Poodle mixes often inherit those lovely floppy ears, which are great for trapping warmth and moisture. Check and gently clean them every one to two weeks to stay ahead of any buildup.
Eye area: Curly and wavy facial fur collects moisture and debris around the eyes, so a gentle wipe every few days keeps things fresh and comfortable.
Professional clipping: Most doodle dog breeds need a full clip every eight to twelve weeks. A groomer who knows poodle crosses well is worth their weight in gold here.
Building out your toolkit early makes a real difference. The puppy grooming collection is a good place to start if you want to make sure you have the right things before those first tangles appear.
Keep on top of it little and often, and grooming stops feeling like a chore. Your dog gets used to being handled, your sessions stay calm, and the coat stays in genuinely good condition.
Choosing with confidence: the right poodle cross for your life
There is no single best poodle cross breed — only the one that actually fits your life. A Cockapoo might be a brilliant match for a busy family with a garden and young kids, while a Maltipoo could be exactly right for someone in a flat who wants a close, devoted companion. The difference comes down to being genuinely honest with yourself: your routine, your space, your schedule on a typical Tuesday.
If you are still weighing things up, take your time. Talk to reputable breeders, connect with owners online, and if you can, spend time around the cross you are considering before you commit. Ask the questions that matter — how much exercise does this dog really need, how does the coat hold up between grooms, and how does the dog cope when left alone? Those answers will tell you far more than any popularity ranking.
Once you have found your match, a little preparation before your puppy arrives makes those first weeks feel far less overwhelming. Our puppy shopping list covers everything you need, so when the day comes, you can focus on what really matters — welcoming your new dog home.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best poodle cross?
There is no single best poodle cross; the right one depends on your home, routine and energy levels. A Cockapoo often suits busy families, a Cavapoo fits a gentler pace, and a Labradoodle or Goldendoodle can be brilliant for active households with more space.
What is the calmest poodle cross?
The Cavapoo is usually the calmest poodle cross in everyday family life. They tend to be gentle, affectionate and happy with a steadier routine, often enjoying a walk and then settling in for cuddles, which makes them a lovely fit for quieter homes or first-time owners.
What dog is best if you work all day?
A dog that copes well with your routine matters more than a single “best” breed, and very people-focused poodle crosses usually prefer plenty of company. If you work all day, look closely at how a dog handles being left alone and choose a temperament and energy level that fit your real schedule.
Homemade dog food recipes: vet guidance and easy recipes
Making homemade dog food is one of the most loving things you can do for your dog, but getting it right takes a little more than good intentions and a well-stocked fridge. In this guide, you will find everything from what a nutritionally balanced bowl actually needs, to which ingredients to use or skip, to easy recipes you can realistically cook on a weeknight. We will also cover how to portion, store, and transition meals safely, and when it is worth looping in your vet before you make the switch.
Why make homemade dog food in the first place?
Most pet parents who start making homemade dog food do so because something shifted. Maybe their dog started turning their nose up at the same old kibble. Maybe a vet flagged a sensitivity and suddenly the ingredient list on every bag felt overwhelming. Or maybe they simply noticed their dog seemed brighter, more excited at mealtimes, when something fresh hit the bowl.
Whatever brought you here, you’re not alone in wondering whether a home-cooked meal might suit your dog better.
The good news is that homemade dog food can absolutely work well — dogs can genuinely thrive on it. But there’s a real difference between throwing together whatever’s in the fridge and building a meal that meets your dog’s nutritional needs. That gap is exactly what this guide is here to close.
We’ll walk you through what a balanced homemade meal actually looks like, which ingredients earn a place in the bowl and which to leave well alone, and how to make the switch without upsetting your dog’s digestion along the way. You’ll also find some easy, vet-informed recipes you can realistically cook on a weeknight — no slow Sunday afternoon required.
If you’re thinking more broadly about your dog’s diet and what healthy eating looks like day to day, our guide to healthy dog food and sustainability is well worth a read alongside this one.
The goal here isn’t perfection. It’s helping you feel confident, informed, and genuinely good about what you’re putting in your dog’s bowl. Because when you get homemade dog food right, it shows. And your dog will almost certainly let you know the moment you pick up the pan.
What a healthy homemade dog meal needs to include
A balanced bowl of homemade dog food needs a bit more than cooked meat and whatever veg happens to be in the fridge. Most of us have reached for something simple like chicken and rice at some point, especially after an upset tummy, but a healthy everyday meal needs a wider mix of nutrients. If you are building meals at home, it helps to start with the basics of correct nutrition for dogs, then make sure each bowl covers the key building blocks.
Here’s what that looks like in practice:
Protein: This is the main part of the meal and helps support muscles, tissue repair, immune health, and day-to-day energy. Good choices include chicken, turkey, beef, lamb, eggs, and fish.
Carbohydrates: Dogs do not need huge amounts of carbs, but the right ones can provide steady energy and helpful fibre. Brown rice, oats, quinoa, and sweet potato are all common options in homemade dog food recipes.
Vegetables: Veg bring extra fibre, vitamins, and antioxidants that meat alone will not cover. Cooked carrots, green beans, courgette, broccoli, and spinach are all easy additions for homemade dog food for dogs of many ages.
Healthy fats: Fats matter for skin, coat, brain function, and overall health. Oily fish, sardines, salmon oil, and small amounts of dog-safe oils can all help round out a meal.
Vitamins and minerals: This is the bit many well-meaning pet parents accidentally miss. Dogs need nutrients like calcium, phosphorus, zinc, iodine, and B vitamins in the right balance. That often means including organ meat, bone meal or another calcium source, and sometimes a vet-recommended supplement.
One of the biggest mistakes with DIY dog food is assuming that if the ingredients look wholesome, the meal must be complete. Unfortunately, that is not always the case.
Why chicken and rice isn’t enough: It can be useful for a day or two when your dog has a sensitive stomach, but it is not a complete long-term diet. Feed it every day and your dog can miss out on calcium, essential fatty acids, and other key nutrients.
In short, the best healthy dog food recipes are not just fresh, they are balanced too. That balance is what makes homemade dog food a good long-term option rather than just a kind idea.
Vet guidance: ingredients to use, limit, and avoid
Knowing what goes into your dog’s bowl matters just as much as how you cook it. When vets talk about homemade dog food, ingredient safety is one of the first things they mention, because plenty of everyday foods in a family kitchen are fine for us but not so good for dogs. Once you know the basics, making homemade dog food for dogs feels much more straightforward.
✅ Safe to include
Lean proteins such as chicken, turkey, beef, white fish, and eggs
Carbohydrates like brown rice, oats, and plain cooked pasta
Dog-safe vegetables including carrots, courgette, peas, green beans, and sweet potato
Plain cooked pumpkin or butternut squash
Small amounts of fruit like blueberries or seedless watermelon as occasional extras
⚠️ Feed in moderation
Liver and other organ meats, which are nutritious but very rich and easy to overdo
Spinach, which is fine now and then but best not served all the time
Dairy such as plain yoghurt or cottage cheese, since some dogs tolerate it well and others get an upset tummy
Salmon, which should always be cooked, not raw
Avocado flesh, which is best limited or skipped because it is high in fat; the pit, skin, and leaves should be kept away completely
❌ Always avoid
Grapes and raisins, which can cause sudden kidney problems
Onions, garlic, leeks, and chives in any form
Macadamia nuts and xylitol, often found in some nut butters and sugar-free snacks
Chocolate and cooked bones
A quick word of caution: puppies, senior dogs, and dogs with conditions like kidney disease, diabetes, pancreatitis, or allergies often need more tailored nutrition than standard homemade dog food recipes can offer. If that sounds like your dog, it’s well worth checking in with your vet before you change their meals. A little care at this stage makes healthy dog food recipes much safer and easier to get right.
Easy homemade dog food recipes to try at home
These homemade dog food recipes are meant to be practical starting points: simple enough for a midweek dinner rush, and easy to batch-cook for the freezer. They give you a sensible mix of protein, carbohydrate, and veg, but it’s worth saying clearly that homemade dog food is not automatically nutritionally complete just because it looks wholesome in the bowl. If you plan to feed homemade dog food for dogs regularly, ask your vet or a qualified canine nutritionist to help you balance the diet properly and decide whether you need a supplement. And if life gets busy, a trusted option from our dog food range can make the routine feel much more manageable.
Chicken, Rice, and Veggie Bowl
300g cooked chicken breast, shredded
150g cooked brown rice
100g steamed carrots, diced
50g cooked peas
Let everything cool, then mix well so your dog doesn’t just pick out the chicken and leave the veg behind. This makes a handy everyday meal idea and works well for batch prep. As a rough guide, a 10kg dog may eat around 250–300g per meal, so this batch gives you roughly two to three servings depending on appetite, age, and activity.
Beef and Sweet Potato Mash
250g lean minced beef, browned and drained
200g cooked sweet potato, mashed
100g cooked green beans, chopped
1 tbsp plain, unsweetened Greek yogurt (optional)
Cook the mince thoroughly and drain away excess fat before stirring everything together. The sweet potato gives it a soft texture that many dogs love, especially those who inhale their food in seconds. This batch makes about two generous portions for a medium dog of around 15kg. If your dog is sensitive to dairy, simply skip the yogurt.
Salmon and Oat Supper
200g cooked salmon fillet, flaked with all bones removed
100g cooked rolled oats
100g cooked courgette, diced
1 tsp flaxseed oil (optional)
Flake the salmon carefully and mix through the oats and courgette once cooled. If you use flaxseed oil, keep it to a small amount and treat it as an optional extra rather than a shortcut to a “complete” meal. This recipe makes one to two portions for a smaller dog under 10kg, or a single meal for a larger dog as part of a mixed feeding routine.
Rotating homemade dog food recipes can help add variety across the week, but variety alone does not guarantee balance. Think of these as easy homemade dog food ideas you can use now and then, or build on with professional guidance if you want to feed this way long term. Keep portions realistic for your own dog, store leftovers safely, and if you’re unsure whether a recipe suits their age, health, or breed, it’s always wise to check with your vet first.
How to portion, store, and switch your dog over safely
Getting the practical side right matters just as much as choosing good homemade dog food recipes. Even well-balanced homemade dog food can cause tummy trouble if portions are too generous, meals are stored carelessly, or the change happens too fast.
Start with your vet’s suggested daily calorie intake, then weigh out your dog’s full day of food rather than guessing by eye. From there, split it into however many meals your dog normally has. For example, if your dog eats twice a day, divide the daily amount into two equal portions. It also helps to keep an eye on body condition over the next few weeks. If your dog starts looking a little rounder or leaner than usual, adjust gently and check in with your vet if you’re unsure.
How to transition over 7–10 days:
Days 1–2: 25% homemade food, 75% current food
Days 3–4: 50% homemade, 50% current food
Days 5–6: 75% homemade, 25% current food
Days 7–10: fully switch to homemade meals
If stools go loose or appetite dips, pause and slow the change down
Storage at a glance:
Fridge: keep homemade dog food in an airtight container for 3–4 days
Freezer: freeze meal-sized portions for up to 3 months
Tip: label each container with the date so nothing gets lost at the back
One simple habit makes life easier: portion meals before chilling or freezing. It turns busy evenings into a quick grab-and-serve job.
If you’d like more step-by-step help, our guide to switching your dog’s food safely is a handy next read.
When homemade dog food works well — and when to ask for help
Homemade dog food can be a genuinely wonderful choice — for the right dog, in the right hands. If your dog is a healthy adult, you enjoy cooking, and you’re happy to do a little planning, it can be one of the most nourishing and rewarding ways to feed them.
It tends to work especially well for dogs with food sensitivities, picky eaters who’ve turned their nose up at commercial food, or pet parents who simply want to know exactly what’s going into the bowl. When meals are properly balanced and varied, most dogs absolutely thrive on it.
Some dogs, though, need a little more support. Puppies, seniors, pregnant or nursing dogs, and those managing health conditions like kidney disease, diabetes, or allergies all have specific nutritional needs that are genuinely difficult to meet without professional input. If your dog falls into any of these groups, it’s worth speaking with your vet before you start — or asking for a referral to a qualified canine nutritionist. They’re not there to talk you out of it; they’re there to help you do it well.
And if you notice any changes after switching — loose stools, low energy, a dull coat, unexpected weight shifts — pay attention. Your dog is telling you something needs tweaking.
Homemade dog food, done well, is an act of love. Just make sure that love comes with a little expert backup when it counts.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best ingredients to use for homemade dog food?
The best ingredients for homemade dog food are a balanced mix of protein, dog-safe carbohydrates, vegetables, healthy fats, and the right vitamins and minerals. Good staples include chicken, turkey, beef, eggs, fish, brown rice, oats, sweet potato, carrots, green beans, and courgette, with calcium and other nutrients properly covered too.
What are common mistakes in homemade dog food?
Common mistakes include feeding meals that look wholesome but are not actually balanced, relying on chicken and rice long term, missing key nutrients like calcium and essential fatty acids, overdoing rich ingredients like organ meat, using unsafe foods, and switching too quickly, which can upset your dog’s digestion.
What are some good homemade foods for dogs?
Good homemade foods for dogs include simple cooked meals built around lean protein, a gentle carbohydrate, and dog-safe vegetables. Practical options include chicken with brown rice and carrots, beef with sweet potato and green beans, or cooked salmon with oats and courgette, as long as meals are balanced overall.
Hairless dogs are unlike any other breed you’ll share your home with, and the reality of life with one is a little more nuanced than their striking looks might suggest. This guide covers the most popular hairless dog breeds and what they’re genuinely like to live with, alongside everything you need to know about skin care, temperature comfort, and those big questions around allergies and shedding. Whether you’re already set on one or still weighing things up, you’ll find the practical detail here to help you decide with confidence.
What to know before choosing a hairless dog
Hairless dogs turn heads wherever they go — and if you’ve landed here, you’re probably already a little smitten. Before you fall completely, it’s worth knowing what life with a hairless dog actually looks like day to day.
The appeal is easy to understand. These dogs are striking, often deeply loyal, and they won’t leave a trail of fur across your sofa or your best dark jeans. If shedding is a genuine dealbreaker in your home, a hairless dog breed can make a real difference. But low-shedding is not the same as low-maintenance, and that’s the most important thing to get your head around before anything else.
Without a coat to protect their skin, hairless dogs need more hands-on care than most people expect. Sun exposure, cold air, dry skin, and even friction from bedding can all cause irritation. You’ll probably find yourself reaching for dog-safe moisturiser and sun cream far more often than a lint roller. And in winter, a well-fitted dog coat isn’t a luxury — it’s genuinely part of their everyday kit.
Temperature sensitivity is something you’ll navigate across every season. Breeds like the Xoloitzcuintli and the Chinese Crested dog feel the cold quickly and can struggle in strong sun too, so you’ll find yourself thinking about their comfort in ways you might not with a fluffier breed.
Allergies are also worth approaching with realistic expectations. Hairless dogs are often described as hypoallergenic, but the truth is a bit more nuanced than that. If it’s a key factor for your household, our guide to understanding hypoallergenic dog breeds is worth a read before you decide.
Go in with open eyes, and a hairless dog can be a genuinely wonderful companion. The rest of this guide will help you figure out whether one is the right fit for your home and your life.
The most popular hairless dog breeds and what they’re really like
If you’re comparing hairless dog breeds, you’ll probably keep landing on the same four. The Chinese Crested, Xoloitzcuintli, American Hairless Terrier, and Peruvian Inca Orchid are the best-known hairless dogs, but they feel very different in day-to-day life. Some are clingy little companions, some are more reserved, and some need a lot more mental and physical activity than people expect. If you’re trying to picture what living with each hairless dog breed is actually like, this is where the differences really matter.
Chinese Crested
The Chinese Crested dog is tiny, affectionate, and full of character. Most weigh around 3 to 5kg, so they fit beautifully into smaller homes, flats, and households where the dog will be part of everyday life rather than an outdoorsy sidekick. They’re often happiest tucked beside their person on the sofa, following them from room to room, or curling up in a cosy bed after a gentle walk.
In terms of temperament, they’re loving and very people-focused. That sounds lovely, and it is, but it also means many Chinese Cresteds don’t enjoy being left alone for long stretches. If your home is busy, warm, and someone is around for a good part of the day, they often thrive. If you want a dog for long hikes or high-energy adventures, they may feel a little too delicate and low-key. If you want a cheerful little shadow, they make a lot of sense.
Xoloitzcuintli
The Xoloitzcuintli, usually shortened to Xolo, has a completely different feel. This breed comes in toy, miniature, and standard sizes, which gives you a bit more flexibility depending on your space and lifestyle. A toy or miniature Xolo may suit a smaller home, while a standard size will naturally need more room and a little more exercise.
Xolos tend to be calm, loyal, and deeply bonded to their family. They’re often reserved with strangers, so they’re not always the sort of dog who greets every visitor like an old friend. Early socialisation helps enormously here. With the right start, they can grow into steady, confident companions, but they usually still keep that thoughtful, watchful nature.
This is a breed that often suits owners who like routine and don’t mind earning a dog’s trust over time. They can be wonderful in quieter households where life feels fairly predictable. If you love the idea of a sensitive dog who forms a strong bond and doesn’t need constant chaos around them, the Xoloitzcuintli can be a lovely fit.
American Hairless Terrier
The American Hairless Terrier is usually the busiest and boldest of the group. This is still a small dog, often around 5 to 8kg, but don’t let the size fool you. They’ve got proper terrier energy, which means curiosity, confidence, and a knack for getting involved in absolutely everything.
They tend to suit homes where people enjoy training, games, and giving their dog little jobs to do. Think puzzle toys, short training sessions, active walks, and plenty of interaction. Without that outlet, a clever terrier can quickly start making their own fun, and that’s not always ideal if you value a peaceful afternoon.
That said, they can be a great match for families and engaged first-time owners who are ready to put the work in. They’re bright, adaptable, and often very entertaining to live with. If that sounds appealing, our guide to the best dog breeds for first-time owners is a useful next read.
Peruvian Inca Orchid
The Peruvian Inca Orchid is elegant, sensitive, and a little less straightforward than the others. They come in small, medium, and large sizes, so daily life can vary depending on the individual dog, but the overall personality tends to lean gentle, alert, and emotionally tuned-in.
They usually form strong attachments to their people and can be shy in unfamiliar settings. In a noisy or unpredictable household, some may struggle to relax. In a calm home with patient handling and a steady rhythm, they often really come into their own. Many enjoy having space to stretch their legs, but they’re not all-out chaos merchants. It’s more that they like balance: enough exercise, enough reassurance, and a home that feels safe.
Out of all the hairless dog breeds here, this is often the one that suits experienced owners best, especially those who are comfortable reading subtle body language and building confidence gently.
All of these hairless dogs share that striking bare-skinned look, but their personalities and daily needs are far from identical. Choosing the right hairless dog is less about looks and more about whether their pace, temperament, and social needs match your home.
Do hairless dogs need special skin care?
Owning a hairless dog does mean committing to a skincare routine, but once you find your rhythm, it becomes as natural as any other part of your day. Instead of brushing out tangles or managing seasonal shedding, you’re focused on keeping skin clean, hydrated, and protected. It’s a different kind of care, not a harder one.
Here’s what a solid routine actually looks like in practice:
Bathing. Hairless dogs generally need a bath around once a week using a gentle, dog-safe shampoo. Without a coat to absorb oils and dirt, skin can get greasy or congested surprisingly quickly, so consistency really does make a difference.
Moisturising. Some hairless dogs are prone to dry or flaky skin, especially in winter. A small amount of unscented, dog-safe moisturiser after bathing can keep things comfortable and prevent that tight, irritated look.
Sun protection. Exposed skin burns just like ours does. On sunny days, apply a pet-safe sunscreen to unprotected areas before heading out. Our summer grooming tips are worth a read for keeping your dog safe when the temperature climbs.
Cold-weather clothing. A well-fitting dog jumper or coat isn’t a fashion statement when you own a hairless dog. It’s a genuine necessity. Hairless dogs lose body heat fast, so layering up before a winter walk is simply part of looking after them properly.
Skin checks. Get into the habit of running your hands over their skin every few days. Redness, dry patches, spots, or irritation are much easier to deal with when you catch them early.
Ears and nails. Without fur in the way, ears can collect debris more readily, so keep on top of gentle cleaning. Regular nail trims matter too.
Worth knowing: breed makes a real difference here. The Chinese Crested dog has a mix of hairless and coated areas, so you’ll need to adapt your routine to both textures. The Xoloitzcuintli comes in a range of skin tones, and darker pigmentation can offer slightly more natural sun protection, though sunscreen is still recommended across the board.
With a consistent weekly routine and a few good products to hand, caring for a hairless dog’s skin is genuinely manageable. Most owners find it takes no longer than coat maintenance would for other breeds. Once you know what your dog needs, it just becomes part of your normal rhythm together.
Are hairless dogs good for allergy sufferers and low-shedding homes?
It’s easy to assume that a hairless dog automatically solves the problem if allergies or fur on the sofa are a concern in your home. That logic makes sense on the surface. But “hairless” and “hypoallergenic” aren’t the same thing, and it’s genuinely worth understanding why before you commit.
Breeds like the Xoloitzcuintli and the Chinese Crested dog still produce dander, skin oils, and saliva — and those are the real triggers behind most pet allergic reactions. Someone who reacts to dogs can absolutely still sneeze around a coat-free breed, because the fur was never the culprit to begin with.
If allergies are part of your decision, these are the things worth thinking through honestly:
Dander and skin oil can actually be more noticeable on bare skin, with no coat to absorb them
Bathing and skin care routines involve close contact, which may itself trigger a reaction in sensitive people
Saliva exposure during cuddles, play, or enthusiastic face licks is still very much on the table
Other pets or environmental allergens already in your home can complicate the picture
Spending real time with the specific breed matters far more than any general claim about a dog being “safe” for allergy sufferers
That said, if your main concern is fur on furniture, clothes, or bedding, a hairless dog can be a genuinely great fit. Reduced shedding is a real, everyday benefit that many households really appreciate. Just make sure anyone with sensitivities spends proper time with the breed before you decide, because that hands-on experience will tell you far more than any guide ever could.
How to keep a hairless dog comfortable at home and on walks
A hairless dog feels temperature changes far more keenly than a coated breed. Without fur to act as a buffer, exposed skin is sensitive in both directions — too cold, too hot, and everything in between. With a little forward planning and the right kit at home, it’s easy to keep them comfortable whatever the season.
Keeping warm indoors
A draught-free, cosy sleeping spot is genuinely one of the most important things you can give a hairless dog. Think about where your dog spends most of their downtime and make sure it’s warm, sheltered, and properly cushioned.
Choose a bed with raised sides and good insulation, positioned away from doors or windows where cold air creeps in
Layer soft blankets so your dog can burrow and find their own comfortable temperature
For older dogs or those who feel the chill especially, a self-warming bed can make a big difference during cooler months
Good dog bedding isn’t a luxury for hairless dogs — it’s genuinely essential
Staying comfortable outdoors
Walks need a bit more thought too, whatever the season.
Pop a well-fitted jumper or coat on before heading out in cool or cold weather
On sunny days, opt for UV-protective dog clothing or a vet-approved pet sunscreen on exposed skin, especially for lighter-skinned dogs
Watch out for hot pavements in summer — they can burn sensitive paws quickly and make the heat far harder to manage without a coat for shade
Keep a lightweight layer in your bag just in case the weather turns mid-walk
Quick rule of thumb: If you’re reaching for a jacket before heading out, your hairless dog almost certainly needs one too.
For breeds like the Chinese Crested or Xoloitzcuintli, comfort accessories aren’t optional extras. They’re part of everyday care — and getting them right makes a real difference to how happy and settled your dog feels day to day.
Is a hairless dog the right fit for your family?
Choosing a hairless dog is about more than falling for those big eyes and that impossibly soft skin. The real question is whether your everyday life is a genuine match for what these dogs need.
Climate matters more than most people expect. If you live somewhere cold or damp, be honest with yourself about whether you’re ready to commit to proper layering, warm bedding, and year-round temperature management. A Xoloitzcuintli or Chinese Crested dog won’t thrive if winter walks leave them shivering and their skin exposed to the elements.
Your daily routine matters just as much. Hairless dogs tend to form incredibly close bonds with their people and don’t do well with long stretches alone. They want to be in the middle of family life — on the sofa, in the room with you, part of everything. If that sounds perfect, you’re probably onto a winner. If your days are mostly spent out of the house, it’s worth thinking carefully about whether the lifestyle is the right fit.
On the grooming front, hairless breeds actually need more consistent care than many coated dogs, not less. Skin checks, moisturising, sun protection, and nail care all become part of your regular routine. Our guide to grooming a dog is a great place to get those habits established from day one.
And if allergies were what brought you here — no dog is truly hypoallergenic, but low-shedding hairless breeds do make a real difference in many homes.
Get the fit right, and a hairless dog will reward you with devotion, personality, and serious charm. Take your time, choose wisely, and pick the dog that suits your life — not just your camera roll.
Frequently Asked Questions
What dog breed is hairless?
The best-known hairless dog breeds are the Chinese Crested, Xoloitzcuintli, American Hairless Terrier, and Peruvian Inca Orchid. They all share that striking bare-skinned look, but they differ quite a bit in size, energy, temperament, and the amount of daily care and routine they need at home.
How expensive are hairless dogs?
Hairless dogs can be more demanding to keep than many people expect, even if the article doesn’t give a purchase price. Beyond finding the right breed, you’ll need to budget for regular skin care, dog-safe sunscreen, moisturiser, warm coats, and cosy bedding because their comfort depends on that everyday support.
Can dog and cat fleas live on humans? What owners need to know
Finding a flea on your sofa or waking up with itchy bites on your ankles is enough to send any pet parent into a spiral, and the question of whether dog fleas can live on humans is usually the first thing that comes to mind. The honest answer is reassuring, but there is still plenty worth knowing about what those bites mean, why fleas behave the way they do around people, and what actually needs to happen to sort things out properly. This guide covers all of it, from spotting flea bites on humans to treating your pets and home together so you’re not dealing with the same problem again in a few months.
Can dog fleas live on humans? Here’s the short answer
If you’ve spotted a flea jumping across your sofa or woken up with a small, itchy bite on your ankle, it’s completely understandable to wonder whether you’ve become the new host. The good news? You haven’t.
Dog and cat fleas can bite humans, and those bites are genuinely irritating, but they cannot live on humans the way they live on your pet. Fleas need fur. Dense, warm fur gives them somewhere to hide, feed repeatedly, and lay their eggs undisturbed. Human skin and hair simply don’t offer the right conditions for them to settle and breed. So while a flea might take an opportunistic bite when it lands on you, it won’t be sticking around.
Worth knowing: cat fleas, despite the name, are actually the most common species found on both cats and dogs in the UK. And around people, they behave exactly the same way — your pet will always be their preferred host.
In practice, flea bites on humans are almost always a sign that an infestation is happening somewhere else — on your pet, in your soft furnishings, or across your home — rather than on you directly. Think of finding a flea on yourself less as a personal problem and more as a useful early warning. It’s your cue to act quickly and tackle things at the source before they get worse.
If you’ve already spotted the signs, our guide on how to get rid of fleas on your dog is a great place to start.
What flea bites on people usually look and feel like
Flea bites on humans are usually pretty easy to spot once you know what you’re looking for, and the reassuring thing is they tend to follow a fairly predictable pattern. Whether you’re dealing with cat fleas or asking whether dog fleas can bite humans, what shows up on skin looks much the same either way.
Here’s what to look out for:
Small, red spots with a tiny central puncture point, often ringed by a slightly raised halo
Intense itching that kicks in quickly, sometimes within minutes
Bites in clusters or short lines rather than single, isolated marks
Common locations: ankles, lower legs, and around the waist — anywhere clothing sits close to the skin and warmth accumulates
Reactions do vary quite a bit from person to person, which can make things confusing if you’ve got a whole household reacting differently. Some people develop noticeable swelling and redness, particularly with repeated exposure, while others barely register a bite. Children and those with more sensitive skin tend to have stronger reactions, so the same infestation can look completely different depending on who it’s affecting.
If your pet is the likely source, that’s where to focus your attention first. Our roundup of insect-repelling and soothing products for pets is a good place to start.
Why fleas stay with pets instead of humans
Fleas can and do land on people, but they don’t choose us as long-term hosts. Dogs and cats are simply far better suited to support a flea’s entire life cycle, which is why a flea bite on your ankle is usually a sign your pet has fleas rather than fleas trying to settle on you.
Here’s why pets make such ideal hosts:
Dense fur gives fleas somewhere to grip, hide, and move around undisturbed — something bare human skin just can’t offer.
Consistent body warmth keeps fleas comfortable and active. Pets maintain the steady temperatures fleas need to thrive, and we simply don’t hold that heat in the same way.
Easy, repeated feeding is possible because a flea nestled in fur can feed multiple times a day without being spotted or dislodged.
Better egg-laying conditions mean fleas on a pet can drop eggs directly into the coat, which then fall into bedding, carpets, and soft furnishings nearby.
Less grooming interference gives fleas on a dog or cat far less disruption than they’d face on a human who notices them quickly.
A single female flea can lay up to 50 eggs a day. On a pet, that adds up fast — which is exactly why infestations escalate so quickly once they take hold.
So if you’ve spotted a flea on the sofa or felt a bite on your leg, it’s not looking to live on you. It’s a signal of a wider problem involving your pet and your home. Treating your pet is essential, but it’s only half the job. Our guide on how to remove cat fleas from your home walks you through the rest.
What to do if you’ve found a flea in the house
Finding a flea in the house can feel horrible at first, especially if you are also wondering whether can dog fleas live on humans. The reassuring bit is that while dog and cat fleas can bite people, they usually want to stay with your pets rather than live on you.
Here is a calm, practical plan:
Check every pet with a flea comb. Go slowly through the coat, especially around the neck, belly, and base of the tail. You are looking for live fleas or tiny black specks of flea dirt.
Vacuum thoroughly. Focus on carpets, rugs, skirting boards, sofas, pet beds, and the spaces under furniture where eggs and larvae can collect.
Wash pet bedding and soft covers. Use the warmest wash the care label allows, then dry everything fully before it goes back down.
Treat all pets in the home together if you can. Even pets who seem fine may still be carrying fleas, so it helps to follow your flea treatment plan consistently and check the product guidance or your vet’s advice.
Freshen pet areas with pet-safe cleaning products. A pet-safe home spray or bedding wash can be useful as part of your usual cleaning routine, especially in the places your dog or cat sleeps most.
Keep going for the next few days. Repeat vacuuming and keep checking coats, because fleas often show up in stages.
A quick note: the fleas you spot are often only part of the picture. Eggs can sit quietly in soft furnishings and hatch later, which is why steady cleaning matters so much. A flea comb, regular bedding washes, and a simple pet-safe routine go a long way in preventing more flea bites on humans and pets.
When flea bites need extra attention and how to keep them from coming back
Most flea bites are a temporary irritation that settle down within a few days, especially once you’ve tackled the root cause. That said, keep an eye on any bites that seem to be getting worse rather than better. If one becomes increasingly swollen, painful, or surrounded by spreading redness, it’s worth a quick chat with a pharmacist — they can point you towards the right antihistamine or topical cream. If a bite looks infected or you’re feeling unwell alongside the itching, don’t wait it out; see your GP.
On the pet side, if you’ve already treated your dog or cat and you’re still spotting fleas a few weeks on, or your pet is scratching constantly and losing fur, loop in your vet. Persistent infestations sometimes need prescription-strength treatment, and a vet can also rule out any skin reactions that need separate attention.
The bigger takeaway here is a simple one: flea bites on humans are really a symptom of a wider problem. Fixing it properly means treating your pets and your home at the same time, not one without the other. That’s where so many owners get stuck, and end up starting from scratch months later. Once you’ve cleared things up, regular prevention is what keeps it that way. Browsing trusted options like Frontline through Lords and Labradors is a good place to start making monthly treatment part of your routine.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long will dog fleas stay on a human?
Not for long — dog and cat fleas may bite a person, but they don’t stay and live on humans. They prefer pets because fur gives them the warmth, cover, and feeding conditions they need, while human skin and hair don’t let them settle or breed properly.
Can fleas live in a bed?
Yes, fleas can be in a bed, especially in bedding and other soft furnishings around your home. They don’t live on humans, but eggs and developing fleas can collect in places like pet beds, sofas, carpets, and covers, which is why washing and thorough vacuuming matter so much.
How likely are you to get fleas from your dog?
It’s very possible to get bitten if your dog has fleas, but the fleas are still far more likely to stay with your pet than live on you. If you’re finding bites or spotting fleas in the house, it usually points to a wider infestation in your dog, bedding, or soft furnishings.
Can cats eat cheese? Dairy, milk and other human foods explained
Cats and cheese have a complicated relationship, and if you have ever wondered whether you should actually hand over that little corner of cheddar, you are not alone. This article unpacks whether cats can eat cheese safely, how different dairy foods affect a cat’s digestion, and which other human foods are worth knowing about before your cat makes the decision for you. By the end, you will have a clear, practical sense of what is fine in small amounts, what is best avoided, and when a dodgy reaction is worth a call to the vet.
Why your cat always appears when the cheese comes out
There’s something almost magical about the moment you peel back a cheese wrapper. One second you’re alone in the kitchen, and the next your cat has materialised at your feet with that very specific look on their face. Not quite begging. Just watching. Very closely.
It’s no wonder so many of us end up asking whether cats can eat cheese. The curiosity is mutual, and it’s genuinely hard to say no to a face like that. But before you break off a corner of cheddar, it’s worth understanding how cats actually handle dairy — because the answer is a little more nuanced than a straight yes or no.
Cats are obligate carnivores, meaning their bodies are built around meat, not milk. Most adult cats are lactose intolerant to some degree, though how sensitive each individual cat is varies quite a bit. Cheese tends to be lower in lactose than milk, which is why some cats can manage a small piece without any obvious reaction. But that alone doesn’t make it a good snack, and a cat tolerating something isn’t the same as a cat thriving on it.
If you’ve ever caught your cat watching you with that laser-focus intensity and wondered what’s actually going on in that head, this piece on why cats stare is worth a read. Cats are complicated little creatures, and the more you understand them, the better placed you are to make the right calls for them.
Can cats eat cheese? The short answer, and why it depends
Most cats can eat a small piece of cheese without any real harm, but that doesn’t mean it’s something they need or benefit from. Cats are obligate carnivores, and most are also lactose intolerant — they don’t produce enough of the lactase enzyme to digest dairy properly. For some cats, even a small amount is enough to cause vomiting or loose stools.
That said, not every cat reacts the same way. A few things influence how well a cat handles cheese:
Individual tolerance — some cats naturally have lower lactase levels than others
Age — kittens produce more lactase than adult cats, though that still doesn’t make dairy a sensible choice for them
Cheese type — hard cheeses tend to be significantly lower in lactose than soft or creamy varieties
Portion size — a tiny nibble is very different from a proper piece
Hard cheeses like cheddar or parmesan are generally easier on a cat’s stomach in small amounts, because the ageing process reduces their lactose content. Soft cheeses, cream cheese, and anything made with milk or cream sit at the other end of the scale and are much more likely to cause a stomach upset. So if your cat has clocked that you’ve opened a block of cheddar and is giving you the eyes, the tiniest taste is unlikely to cause any drama. A cream cheese-covered cracker is a different matter entirely.
Think of cheese as incidental at best, not a treat worth offering regularly. For a fuller picture of what actually keeps your cat in good shape, it’s worth reading up on what makes a healthy diet for cats.
Milk, cream and other dairy foods: what’s different from cheese?
Cheese and milk might both come from the same source, but they behave very differently once they reach your cat’s digestive system. The fermentation process that turns milk into cheese removes most of the lactose along the way, which is why a small sliver of cheddar tends to cause far less trouble than a saucer of milk. Cream sits at the other end of the scale — high in lactose and rich in fat, it’s one of the harder dairy foods for cats to handle.
Dairy Food
Lactose Level
Digestive Risk
Suitable for Cats?
Cheese
Low
Low to moderate
Occasionally, in very small amounts
Milk
High
High
Not recommended
Cream
High
High
Not recommended
Most adult cats are lactose intolerant. After kittenhood, they stop producing enough lactase to break lactose down properly, which is why a cat who eagerly laps up milk often ends up with an upset stomach an hour later. Kittens produce more lactase, but that doesn’t make cow’s milk a safe option — their digestive systems are still developing, and milk doesn’t come close to meeting their nutritional needs. If you’re raising a young cat, age-appropriate kitten food is what actually sets them up well.
A few things worth keeping in mind:
Cheese is the lowest-lactose dairy option, which is why it’s the safest occasional choice in very small amounts
Milk and cream carry a much higher digestive risk and are best kept out of the bowl entirely
No dairy product is nutritionally necessary for cats, whatever their life stage
Other human foods cats might beg for at the table
Cats are expert opportunists. If you have ever turned your back on a plate, you already know this. The good news is that knowing which foods are a harmless occasional nibble and which ones are genuinely a poor fit helps you stay one step ahead.
Here are some of the most common table foods cats try to steal:
Plain cooked chicken or turkey — broadly fine in small amounts, as long as it is unseasoned and boneless
Canned tuna — tolerable as an occasional treat, but high in sodium and not nutritionally balanced for regular feeding
Bread — not toxic, but offers cats nothing useful and can sit heavily on a sensitive stomach
Deli meat — a poor choice due to high salt content and preservatives that are hard on feline kidneys
Salty snacks like crisps or crackers — best kept well out of reach, as cats are not built to handle much salt at all
Heavily seasoned leftovers — garlic and onion in particular are genuinely harmful to cats, even in small quantities
It is worth remembering that cats are obligate carnivores. Plant-heavy or heavily processed human foods rarely add anything useful to their diet, even when they seem harmless enough.
The pattern holds pretty consistently across all of these: plain, unseasoned, protein-based foods carry the lowest risk, while anything salty, greasy, or processed is best left on your plate. If sharing your dinner is becoming a regular habit, our guide on feeding cats leftovers is well worth a read first.
How to share safely: treats, portion size and when to call the vet
If you do decide to share the occasional nibble of cheese with your cat, keep it small and infrequent. Think a pea-sized piece of mild cheddar or a tiny scraping of cream cheese, offered as a rare treat rather than a fridge-opening ritual. As a general rule, treats of any kind, human foods included, should make up no more than ten percent of your cat’s daily calories. If you want to get that balance right, our guide on whether treats are bad for cats is a good place to start.
After trying any new food, pay attention to how your cat responds over the next day or so. A little extra wind or a slightly softer stool is usually nothing to worry about. But if you’re seeing ongoing loose stools, vomiting, or a cat who seems uncomfortable and off their food, that’s your cue to take cheese off the menu for good. Their stomach is telling you something.
Some cats are better off skipping human food sharing altogether. If yours has a sensitive stomach, a history of digestive issues, or a condition like kidney disease or inflammatory bowel disease, check in with your vet before introducing anything new. The same applies if any symptoms appear and don’t settle within a couple of days.
For most cats, the odd dairy experiment is genuinely fine. Keep portions small, watch for any reaction, and let your cat’s response do the talking.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do cats go crazy for cheese?
Cats often get very interested in cheese because it is a strong-smelling animal-based food, but that does not mean it is a great snack for them. Many adult cats are lactose intolerant, so even if they seem obsessed, cheese is best kept to a tiny, occasional nibble.
What foods can’t cats eat?
Cats should not eat heavily seasoned leftovers, especially anything containing garlic or onion, because those are genuinely harmful even in small amounts. Salty, greasy, and processed foods like deli meat, crisps, crackers, milk, and cream are also poor choices and can upset their stomachs.
At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog. Luxury dog crates...
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At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog.
Luxury dog crates
All our deluxe dog crates are made from pet-safe metal and feature removable trays to make them practical and super easy to clean. With sizes ranging from small to XXL, there’s a dog crate set to suit all breeds. Crates are essential when it comes to house training your new puppy. We always suggest buying a larger size dog crate and bed for your puppy so they can grow into it, saving you from having to purchase a new crate when they’re older.
Luxury crate bedding
Our luxury bedding is hand-crafted and designed to the highest quality, appearing both practical and stylish. Bumpers sit around the edge of the crate cushion to provide a super-soft wall of comfort for your pooch. All our bumpers and cushions feature waterproof linings in case of any accidents. It’s recommended to choose a dog crate with a cover – they’ll provide your draughty, bare cage with a fresh new look and offer some privacy for your dog too. They’re particularly great for helping young puppies settle into their night-time routines and offer nervous dogs an extra feeling of security.
Purchase your dog crate set online today
Treat your four-legged friend to one of our stylish dog crate, cover, bedding and bumper sets by browsing our online range today. If you’re struggling to decide which one would be perfect for your pooch, contact our team today who will be more than happy to help. You’ll have 28 days to return your product if you’re unhappy with it for any reason. Our Lords & Labradors items also come with a 365-day quality guarantee, so it’s easy to see why we’ve received so many positive reviews. We also offer free delivery on all orders over £75. Browse the range and order your dog crate set today.
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