A Giant and majestic breed known for its imposing stature and gentle nature. With a sleek coat and a regal appearance, these dogs are both impressive and affectionate. Despite their large size, Great Danes are often referred to as "gentle giants," exhibiting a calm and friendly demeanour that makes them excellent family pets.
A dog collar is an important item for any dog as it can be used as a form of identification if they go missing and makes the process of attaching a lead for walkies a quick, simple and comfortable experience. However, if a dog collar isn’t properly fitted, it could potentially cause pain to your dog or allow them to escape.
In this blog, we explain how tight a dog collar should be, offer tips on fitting a collar correctly and look into how to measure your dog’s neck to find the right size.
How Tight Should A Dog Collar Be?
When you put a collar on your dog, you will need to ensure that the size is right to avoid causing a feeling of discomfort or even potentially putting your furry friend in danger. Finding the correct fit is a balance between making sure it isn’t too loose, meaning it could fall off, or too tight, potentially causing it to hurt their neck.
Whether you’re currently choosing a collar for your dog and need to find the correct size or already have a collar and need to make sure it’s correctly fitted, it’s important that it’s as it should be to avoid harm. Below, we offer tips on getting the size of your dog’s collar right:
How To Fit A Collar On A Dog
Even if the collar doesn’t look particularly tight or loose around your dog’s neck, it doesn’t mean that it's correctly fitted. It can be difficult to know how best to gauge the most suitable size on your dog’s neck. However, a tried and tested way that is effective in identifying the correct fit is by using what’s known as the ‘two finger rule’.
To do this, simply put the collar on your dog and place two fingers between the surface of the collar and your dog's neck. If your fingers can fit comfortably while still feeling a little restricted, this should be an indication that the collar is a suitable length. If, however, your fingers have a lot of room to move or feel stuck in the collar, you should adjust the length accordingly.
How To Shorten A Dog Collar
Dog collars often use a tri-glide buckle, allowing the owner to easily shorten or lengthen the collar. To shorten the length of the collar, move the end of the collar away from the buckle, tightening and making it shorter.
How to Extend A Dog Collar
Likewise, extending a dog collar that uses a tri-glide buckle requires the opposite action. Instead of moving the end of the collar away from the buckle to tighten it, push the end of the collar towards the buckle, pass it through the buckle itself and pull both ends to make the collar longer.
How To Measure Collar Size For A Dog
If you haven’t yet chosen a collar for your dog and are in the process of deciding the most suitable option, you will want to check that you’ve picked the right size. To help with measuring your dog for a collar, we’ve provided helpful tips on carrying out this process:
Get your dog to sit in front of you, ideally facing the opposite direction.
Place measuring tape around the base of your dog’s neck where their collar would be likely to sit.
Place two fingers between the measuring tape and their neck, making the measurement around one to two inches looser.
Record this measurement using a pencil and paper and mark it down as their neck measurement.
Using the neck measurement you’ve recorded, determine the collar size based on the collars size guide - each brand is sized differently so check the individual products size guide to find the best fit.
Lords & Labradors Essentials Walking Accessories
Our L&L Essentials Walking Collection collars come in seven sizes so you're sure to find the perfect fit, we've put our size guide below to help you find the right collar for your dog:
Collar Size
Neck Size
Recommended For
XXS
23-27 cm
Chihuahua, Yorkshire Terrier
XS
28-32 cm
Jack Russell, Norfolk Terrier
S
30-36 cm
Cockapoo, Standard Dachshund, Spaniel
M
35-41 cm
Bulldog, Schnauzer, English Bull Terrier
L
39-47 cm
Labrador. Red Setter, Labradoodle
XL
44-52 cm
Retriever, Great Dane, Doberman
XXL
49-57 cm
Bullmastiff, Dogue De Bordeaux, Newfoundland
Still not sure on the right size collar for your dog? Why not chat with one of our pet experts? They are available on +44 1790 720 900, sales@lordsandlabradors.co.uk or our live chat on our website - they're always happy to help!
Humans spend a third of their lives in bed, so you probably spent ages choosing the right bed and mattress to make sure that you get the best night’s sleep possible and don’t end up like Goldilocks with a bed that’s not right! But what about choosing the perfect dog bed?
A dog can spend a significant amount of time in their bed, and as a beloved member of your family, your furry friend needs a bed that they’re happy and comfortable with. But how exactly do you choose the right bed for your dog?
For many dogs, their bed is an important part of their lives that helps with relaxing, unwinding and gaining some personal space away from humans and other animals. It may be tempting as a dog owner to allow your pooch to carry out their naps in your bed or on other items of furniture around the house, but as a dog bed offers suitable support to your dog and a sanctuary for them during downtime, it’s important they have one.
In this guide we take a closer look at choosing a dog bed, one that’s perfect for dreaming and sleeping all night long!
Do Dogs Need Beds?
On average, dogs spend between 12 and 18 hours of the day asleep, so a bed that’s comfortable, supportive and suits their needs is key for any dog. It’s only natural that your four-legged friend may choose to take power naps beside you on the sofa or even spend moments sleeping in your bed, but a dog bed is an important asset in any dog’s life and it is often recognised as their own environment for having time by themselves, relaxing and unwinding after a long day causing mischief.
Other benefits to dog beds include:
Contributing to health and comfort
Easing feelings of stress and anxiety
Improving the training process
Offering quality sleep
Preserving condition of human furniture
Preventing behavioural issues
How to choose a dog bed
There are loads of dog beds to choose from here at Lords & Labradors but picking the right bed for your dog can be overwhelming. Fortunately, you can use a few key factors to pick out the best option for your dog based on the breed and size of your dog and how they like to sleep.
The key things to think about when choosing a dog bed are
Size
Sleeping Styles
Comfort
How To Choose A Dog Bed Size
Size plays an important role in deciding the correct bed for your dog. If you have a Dachshund, an extra-large bed designed for sprawling out may be excessive, just as you would be lucky to fit any part of a Doberman in a small igloo bed.
A dog bed needs to be big enough for them to comfortably lie in all their favourite positions whilst still being small enough for them to feel cosy & safe in. All our dog beds, here at Lords and Labradors, have a size guide which will help give you an idea of which bed we’d recommend for your breed.
Measuring your dog will help to give you an idea of what size dog bed they will need. To do this, wait until they are sleeping and measure them in centimetres from their nose to their back paws. You should then add around 25 centimetres onto the measurement you’ve taken and a bed with a similar length should be ideal for your furry friend.
How To Choose A Dog Bed Style
As well as the size of your dog, how they sleep is also an important factor to consider. Your dog will give you clues about what bed they’d sleep best in and how they like to sleep every single day. Some dogs love to stretch out, whereas other dogs love to curl up with their nose touching their tail. Here we talk you through the different styles of dog bed and what sleep style they suit.
Mattress Beds/Cushions
Is your dog a side sleeper? Do they love to sprawl out whilst sleeping? Maybe a cushion or a mattress bed is for them, this will give them the space to stretch out whilst still being super comfy. Our crate cushions also work great as standalone cushions for dogs who love their sleep space.
High Wall Beds
The tall squishy walls of a high wall bed are great for dogs who love something to rest their head on whilst still curling up . The high sides will help to keep them feeling safe and secure, so they can really get cosy during nap time. Our high wall beds have a lowered front edge so it’s easy for your dog to get in and out.
Donut Beds
Donut beds as the name suggest are a circle shape with a raised ring round the side. These are great dog bed for dogs who suffer with anxiety and like to curl up in their bed to unwind, the cosy sides will cocoon them and make them feel safe. We’ve made our donut beds with the most sumptuously soft faux fur so it’s perfect for snuggling up in for those all important naps.
Box Beds
Does your dog like to stretch out but still love something to rest their head on? A dog box bed is a perfect choice for them. The square shape means they’ve got plenty of space to stretch out but the padded edges are soft and perfect for hanging their head off whilst napping.
Orthopaedic Beds
Just like we can get orthopaedic mattresses, you can get orthopaedic dog beds. These are a great choice for dogs who have specific health needs, like joint problems or senior dogs who need a little more support. The foam inner on our L&L Orthopaedic mattress has been designed to provide plenty of support for dogs who need it. They’re also low to the floor so they’re easy for dogs with aches and pains to get on and off.
Den Beds
Does your dog like to burrow and hide? Breeds such as Dachshunds and Jack Russels were bred to go to ground when hunting so have a natural instinct to tunnel and burrow, so a den bed is perfect for them. Our den beds are round and have a comfy cushions so are perfect for curling up in but the attached blanket means they can hide and burrow before settling down to sleep.
Picking the perfect puppy bed
Are you getting a new puppy? You’ll probably want to get them a puppy bed before transitioning to an adult bed. Puppy beds are usually slightly smaller than the adult beds to stop your puppy from feeling lost in their new bed. We have two styles of puppy beds here at L&L, both of which have been tested with our own puppies to make sure they’re fit for purpose
Cosy & Calming Puppy Crate Bed
Our cosy & calming puppy beds are exactly as the name suggests, cosy and calming. They have been designed to fill just over half of a dog crate so if you’re crate training your puppy this will help divide their crate and aid their toilet training. The rectangle beds have padded raised walls all the way round for your puppy to snuggle up in and the cushion in the middle is made from the softest fleece, perfect for all those naps your puppy needs!
Grow With Me Puppy Beds
Our newest addition to our bed range, the grow with me puppy beds have high walls to create a feeling of security for nervous puppies. They feature a soft removable ring which you can take out as your puppy grows. This means the bed is never too big for your puppy and it can grow with them. This is perfect dog bed to choose for more nervous puppies or puppies who love to be cocooned and curled up
Do dogs need soft beds?
Dog beds are available in a selection of different materials, so it’s important you choose the most suitable option for your dog. A dog bed needs to be firm enough to offer support to your dog but comfortable enough to make them feel cosy and relaxed.
For puppies, a super soft dog bed with sides to prevent them from tumbling out will make them feel more settled, especially if they’ve recently moved into your home. However, this type of bed may be too small to fit a larger dog, and as older dogs may struggle to get out of a bed that’s particularly spongy, a dog cushion would be more fitting, and it would help to support their ageing joints.
For more destructive dogs you might want a dog bed that’s made out of something more hardwearing, like our Rhino Tough faux-leather beds, rather than a soft furry beds!
How Long Do Dog Beds Last?
Whether your dog is prone to bringing snacks to bed, walking mud all over their bed or scratching at it and kneading it until it feels exactly right, it’s to be expected that it will become damaged and eventually require replacing. A dog bed’s lifespan could be several years if it’s a good quality or a matter of weeks if it’s not.
However, you can extend the time you use a dog bed by washing it as instructed on the label and cleaning away any food or dirt as soon as it comes into contact with it. Dogs are messy creatures by design, but it’s a shame to let them ruin a perfectly good bed, especially if it’s one they’re particularly fond of.
How Often Should You Replace A Dog Bed
As dogs are unpredictable, it’s not always easy to anticipate when they will do something that totally ruins their bed. It may be in good condition for several months before they pull out a thread while scratching it and end up accidentally ripping it open and pulling out all the stuffing. Unfortunately, if this happens, it’s unlikely that you will be able to fix it and the best solution will be to replace it entirely with a new dog bed.
However, you may be wondering when you should give up on your pooch’s bed and invest in a new one. Situations where you should consider replacing your dog bed include when:
It smells and repeated washing isn’t removing the nasty odour
It’s infested with fleas and nothing is working to remove them
The stuffing is falling out, the material is ripped and it’s totally beyond repair.
How Many Dog Beds Should A Dog Have?
All dogs should have at least one bed, but if your dog spends time in different rooms, providing multiple beds can mean that they feel more comfortable in each room and are less inclined to jump on human furniture.
If you have more than one dog, it would be advisable to provide a bed for each of them. However, if they tend to snuggle up together, it could make sense to choose a bed that’s big enough to support both of them.
What Dog Bed Should I Buy?
So, when it comes to identifying the best dog bed for your furry friend, consider their wants and needs and match it with an option that ticks all the right boxes. If your dog is large, check that they’ll fit in the bed. If they’re prone to scratching and digging in their bed, make sure the material is strong enough to withstand this level of wear and tear. If they’re old, pick a bed that’s designed to support them effectively.
If you’re still not sure what dog bed to choose, why not chat to one of our Customer Care team? They’re pet experts with years of knowledge, they can help to advise you on which dog bed will suit your dog!
Still not sure what bed to get your dog? Why not chat to one of our pet experts? They're bed experts and will be able to advise you which bed will be the best fit and shape for your dog, call us on +44 1790 720 900 or email us on sales@lordsandlabradors.co.uk
As dog owners, we know that keeping our furry friends occupied and engaged is essential for their mental stimulation and overall well-being. One of the most effective ways to keep dogs entertained and mentally stimulated is through the use of treats and toys designed specifically to captivate their attention. Whether you have an energetic puppy or an adult dog with a penchant for play, finding the right treats and toys can make a world of difference.
Best Dog Treats to Keep Them Busy: Finding the Perfect Fit
When it comes to choosing the best treats to keep dogs busy, it's crucial to consider their preferences, age, size, and chewing habits. Not all treats or toys are suitable for every dog, so here’s a breakdown of the top options:
1. Treat Dispensing Toys
Treat-dispensing toys are a fantastic way to keep your dog engaged for extended periods. Products like KONG Classic or KONG wobbler can be filled with treats, offering mental stimulation as they work to retrieve the hidden goodies.
2. Long-Lasting Chews
For dogs with powerful jaws or an insatiable urge to chew, long-lasting chews like natural treats, yak cheese chews, or antlers can be a great choice. These treats not only keep them occupied but also help in maintaining dental health. Be careful when choosing a long-lasting dog chew to check that it doesn’t contain rawhide, commonly used in a lot of long-lasting dog chews rawhide is actually really difficult for your dog’s stomach to breakdown and can cause all sorts issues. A great alternative to rawhide is the Earth Animal No Hide chews, they come in a range of flavours and are long-lasting so are perfect for keeping your pup busy.
3. Puzzle Treat Toys
Puzzle toys, such as the Nina Ottosson interactive puzzles or Smart Choice S Shaped Puzzle, challenge dogs to solve puzzles to access treats. These toys provide mental stimulation, preventing boredom and promoting problem-solving skills.
4. Frozen Treats
During warmer months, frozen treats like frozen bananas or ice cubes made with chicken broth can offer a refreshing way to keep your pup entertained and cool. You can even try freezing some wet food in their KONG classic as a fun way to give your dog their food whilst keeping them busy.
Best Chew Toys and Treats for Puppies
Puppies, with their boundless energy and curiosity, require specific treats and toys to keep them occupied:
1. Puppy-Safe Chew Toys
Opt for durable and safe chew toys specifically designed for puppies. Toys such as the KONG Puppy Teething Stick or the Tuffs Puppy Pastel Fetch & Chew Bar are excellent choices for keeping teething puppies busy as they cater to teething puppies' needs.
2. Soft Treats for Training
Soft, small treats are ideal for training purposes with puppies. Treats like The Innocent Hound Puppy Training Treats can be used during training sessions to keep them engaged and motivated. For something longer lasting for your pup why not try some natural treats to keep them busy?
Choosing the right treats and toys for your furry companion can significantly impact their mental and physical well-being. Experimenting with different options and observing your dog's preferences will help you discover the best treats and toys to keep them entertained and engaged for hours.
Remember, supervision is crucial, especially with new toys or treats, to ensure they are safe and suitable for your dog's individual needs. By investing in the best dog treats and toys that keep them busy, you’re not only providing entertainment but also contributing to their overall happiness and health.
Whether it's a puzzle toy to challenge their mind or a long-lasting chew to satisfy their natural instincts, the best treats and toys are those that bring joy and keep tails wagging.
Most pet parents are surprised to learn just how much their dog relies on those stiff little hairs around the muzzle and brows. The effects of cutting dog whiskers are subtler than you might expect, but they can leave your dog feeling genuinely unsettled in their day-to-day life. In this article, we cover why whiskers matter so much, what changes when they’re trimmed, and exactly what to do if your dog’s whiskers have already been cut.
What dog whiskers actually do for your dog
Whiskers might look like oversized stray hairs, but they’re doing something genuinely impressive beneath the surface. Each whisker — technically called a vibrissa — is rooted far deeper than regular coat hair and connects to a dense cluster of nerve endings. Every tiny air shift, brush against a surface, or change in pressure sends detailed sensory information straight to your dog’s brain.
Think of them as a built-in spatial awareness system. The whiskers above the eyes trigger a blink reflex the moment something gets too close, protecting your dog before they’ve even registered the threat. The ones around the muzzle help your dog judge whether a gap is wide enough to squeeze through — which explains that funny little pause you’ve probably noticed before they commit to nosing through a tight space. That’s not hesitation. That’s the whiskers working exactly as they should.
Whiskers also pick up subtle air movement, which helps dogs build a picture of their surroundings even when visibility is low. In dim lighting, dense undergrowth, or when your dog is rooting around under the sofa, those sensory signals make a real difference to how confidently they move.
This is exactly why the effects of cutting dog whiskers go well beyond looks. When whiskers are removed, dogs lose a layer of sensory feedback they rely on constantly — often in ways we’d never notice, because whiskers do so much of their work quietly in the background. If you’re curious about the other ways dogs read and respond to their environment, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is well worth a read.
Effects of cutting dog whiskers: what changes and why it feels so off
The effects of cutting dog whiskers are rarely dramatic, but they are real — and once you know what to look for, they’re surprisingly easy to spot. Most owners notice subtle shifts in how their dog moves and reacts, rather than any obvious signs of distress.
Here’s what you might observe after a trim:
Bumping into furniture or doorframes, especially in low light
Hesitating before squeezing through narrow gaps or entering smaller spaces
Misjudging distances when reaching for toys, food bowls, or objects on the ground
Startling more easily at movement or objects in their peripheral field
Seeming uncertain or unsettled during activities they usually breeze through
A quick note on pain: cutting whiskers doesn’t hurt in the way cutting skin would — the hair shaft itself has no nerve endings. But removing them does take away a key sensory tool, and that loss of input creates real discomfort and insecurity for your dog, even if they can’t tell you that.
Whiskers act as a constant stream of environmental feedback, helping your dog judge space, airflow, and nearby objects with genuine precision. Without that input, even familiar routes and routines can feel slightly off. It’s one of the clearest reasons why dog whiskers are important well beyond how they look — and why most vets and groomers agree you shouldn’t trim dog whiskers unless there’s a specific medical reason to do so.
That disorientation doesn’t always stay indoors, either. If your dog seems hesitant or on edge during walks after a grooming session, disrupted sensory confidence could be part of the picture — worth keeping in mind if you’re also noticing unusual barking or anxious behaviour out on walks.
Why the “whiskers are just hair” myth gets it wrong
It’s easy to see why people think whiskers are just wiry little hairs around the muzzle, but they work very differently from the rest of your dog’s coat. Whiskers, or vibrissae, sit much deeper in the skin and are surrounded by blood-filled follicles with lots of nerve endings. That’s why the effects of cutting dog whiskers can feel so different from a normal trim.
What makes them special?
They’re set deeper: Whiskers have a much deeper anchor than ordinary fur, which helps them stay steady and pick up tiny movements.
They’re part of your dog’s sensory system: When a whisker moves, it sends signals your dog uses to make sense of what’s nearby.
They notice subtle changes: They can help dogs detect shifts in air movement and the position of nearby objects, even before they bump into them.
They support confident movement: Dogs use whiskers to judge spaces, especially in dim light or unfamiliar places.
They help dogs feel secure: When whiskers are trimmed, some dogs seem a bit hesitant or clumsy simply because an important source of feedback has gone.
That’s also why, if you’ve ever wondered should you trim dog whiskers, most pet parents and groomers would say no unless there’s a medical reason. Even things that sit close to the face, like a well-fitted snood, should feel comfortable and not press on those sensitive whiskers.
How whisker trimming can happen during grooming, and how to avoid it
Whisker trimming often happens without anyone meaning it to. During a quick tidy-up at home or a trip to the groomer, those sensitive little hairs can get snipped in seconds, usually when working around the muzzle or brows. Once you understand the effects of cutting dog whiskers, it’s much easier to stay mindful — and the good news is that most accidental trims are entirely preventable with a few small habits in place.
At home grooming
Switch to blunt-tipped scissors whenever you’re trimming fur around the face. They give you far more control and reduce the risk of a stray snip near the muzzle or brows.
Work slowly, especially if your dog is wriggly or a little anxious. Short, calm sessions are always better than rushing to get it done in one go.
Before you put the scissors away, do a quick check of the muzzle, brows, and paw pads to make sure everything looks as it should.
If your dog is having a particularly fidgety day, save the face trim for another session when they’re more settled.
At professional grooming appointments
Mention at every appointment that you’d like the whiskers left intact. Even if your groomer knows you well, it’s worth saying — don’t assume they’ll remember.
Bring it up again at drop-off as a friendly reminder. It only takes a second.
When you collect your dog, take a moment to check the muzzle and brow area before you head home.
Once you know what to watch for, protecting your dog’s whiskers quickly becomes second nature. It’s a small thing that makes a genuine difference to how confident and comfortable your dog feels every day.
What to do if your dog’s whiskers were cut
If your dog’s whiskers were trimmed at their last groom, here’s the most important thing to know: they do grow back. It takes anywhere from a few weeks to a few months depending on the dog, but they will return. In the meantime, your main job is simply to keep things calm and consistent.
You might notice your dog being a little more hesitant than usual — bumping into the coffee table, or moving carefully through spaces they’d normally breeze through. That’s the effects of cutting dog whiskers showing up in everyday life, and it really is temporary. Try to avoid rearranging furniture or introducing lots of new places while they’re finding their feet again. Familiar surroundings make a genuine difference.
Keep routines steady, give them plenty of positive time with you, and hold off on anything that might feel overwhelming. If you’ve recently brought a new dog home on top of all this, our guide to making those first days feel safe and settled is well worth a read.
If your dog seems genuinely distressed, goes off their food, or something just feels off beyond what you’d expect, give your vet a call. Trust your instincts. You know your dog better than anyone, and sometimes a quick conversation with a professional is exactly what you both need.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it bad if you cut a dog’s whiskers?
Yes, it’s best not to cut a dog’s whiskers unless there’s a medical reason. Trimming them doesn’t usually cause dramatic symptoms, but it removes an important source of sensory feedback, which can leave dogs feeling unsure, more easily startled, and less confident judging spaces or objects around them.
Do dogs feel pain if whiskers are cut?
No, cutting the whisker itself doesn’t hurt like cutting skin because the hair shaft has no nerve endings. But whiskers are an important sensory tool, so trimming them can still make a dog feel unsettled, less secure, and a bit clumsy while they adjust to that lost feedback.
Why do groomers cut off dogs’ whiskers?
Usually, groomers don’t mean to cut them off on purpose. Whiskers often get trimmed accidentally during face tidying, especially around the muzzle or brows, and it can happen in seconds. That’s why it helps to mention at every appointment that you’d like your dog’s whiskers left intact.
How do dog groomers avoid cutting whiskers?
Dog groomers avoid cutting whiskers by being especially careful around the muzzle and brows and by following clear instructions from you. It helps to mention at every appointment that you want the whiskers left intact, repeat it at drop-off, and quickly check the face when you collect your dog.
Rabies is one of those things most pet parents hope they will never need to think about, but knowing the early signs of rabies in dogs could genuinely make the difference when it matters most. In this article, we cover how the illness typically begins, how it progresses, what to do if you think your dog has been exposed, and why vaccination is still the most important thing you can do. Consider this your calm, clear starting point.
What the early signs of rabies in dogs can look like
One of the hardest things about spotting the early signs of rabies in dogs is that they can look like almost anything else. A dog who seems a little off, slightly more anxious than usual, or oddly clingy after a long day outside is easy to explain away. That is exactly what makes this stage so important to understand.
In the very earliest phase, pet parents tend to notice subtle shifts in personality rather than obvious physical symptoms. Your dog might seem unusually restless, hide away when they would normally seek you out, or snap at something that would not normally bother them. Some dogs become more vocal. Others go quiet. A usually confident dog might suddenly seem nervous or jumpy, while a sociable one may want to be left alone.
These shifts happen because the virus begins affecting the brain and nervous system before any dramatic symptoms appear. Knowing your dog’s baseline really does matter here. If you feel like you could brush up on the signals your dog sends day to day, this guide to reading your dog’s body language is a genuinely useful place to start.
It is also worth being clear: none of these early signs point exclusively to rabies. Anxiety, irritability, and hiding can all signal pain, illness, stress, or a whole range of other conditions. Behavioural changes alone are not a diagnosis.
That said, if your dog has had any possible contact with a wild animal, or you are noticing changes you simply cannot account for, do not sit on it. Call your vet straight away. With rabies, early action is not just helpful. It is everything.
How rabies spreads and why timing matters
Rabies spreads when infected saliva enters the body, most often through a bite wound from an infected animal. Contact with wildlife, stray dogs, or any unfamiliar animal carries real risk, and even a small puncture wound can be enough for the virus to take hold.
Key transmission and timing facts:
The primary route of infection is a bite from a rabid animal, where saliva enters broken skin directly
Less commonly, rabies can spread if infected saliva contacts open cuts or mucous membranes
The incubation period varies widely, typically 3 to 8 weeks, though it can range from just a few days to over a year
Throughout that entire window, a dog may look and behave completely normally while the virus travels silently along nerve pathways toward the brain
Why timing matters
By the time rabies symptoms in dogs become visible, the disease is almost always fatal. There is no effective treatment once clinical signs appear. Early intervention after any suspicious exposure is the only real option, which is why acting quickly is so important.
If your dog has recently been in a fight, taken a bite from an unknown animal, or had any contact with wildlife, please do not take a wait-and-see approach. It is worth knowing that even everyday behaviours like licking or mouthing can become relevant in exposure situations, since saliva contact with broken skin or mucous membranes does carry some risk. When in doubt, call your vet and let them help you decide what to do next.
With transmission and timing covered, it is time to look at what the early signs of rabies in dogs actually look like in practice.
How the illness can progress from behavior changes to neurological signs
Rabies rarely starts with the dramatic signs people expect. More often, it begins with a dog who just doesn’t seem quite like themselves. You might notice they seem unusually quiet, restless, clingy, or on edge, and those early signs of rabies in dogs can be easy to brush off after a long day, a bad night’s sleep, or even an upset tummy.
What makes rabies so worrying is how quickly that “something feels off” stage can shift into obvious neurological problems. A dog who is normally steady and predictable may start reacting strangely to touch, sound, or movement. If your dog usually gets vocal or excitable outdoors, there can be plenty of harmless explanations for that, especially when out walking. But a sudden, unexplained change in temperament in a dog you know well is different, and it deserves urgent attention.
As the illness progresses, movement and awareness can change too. Some dogs become disoriented, seem unsure in familiar spaces, or struggle to walk normally. Swallowing may become difficult, which can lead to jaw weakness and the heavy drooling many people associate with rabies symptoms in dogs. In more advanced stages, seizures, collapse, or severe distress can follow.
That is why this is never something to “keep an eye on” at home once symptoms begin. Rabies can move from subtle behaviour changes to serious neurological signs very quickly, and by that point it is a medical emergency for both your dog and the people around them. If your dog is showing these kinds of changes after any possible exposure, contact your vet or local public health team straight away.
What to do if you think your dog may have been exposed
If you suspect your dog has been exposed to rabies, don’t wait to see what develops. Suspected contact with a potentially rabid animal is an emergency, and the early signs of rabies in dogs can appear before you even realise exposure has happened.
Isolate your dog straight away. Keep them away from other pets, children, and adults until you’ve spoken to a professional. Even if your dog seems completely fine, this step matters right now.
Call your vet or an emergency animal clinic. Explain exactly what happened: when, where, and what animal was involved. They’ll guide your next steps based on your dog’s vaccination history and your location.
Report the incident to your local public health authority. Rabies is a notifiable disease in many regions, and local authorities can advise on any legal requirements or quarantine protocols that apply to you.
Don’t wait for symptoms before acting. Early rabies symptoms in dogs can be subtle and easy to miss. Prompt reporting protects everyone, including your dog.
Follow the guidance you’re given carefully. Next steps often depend on vaccination status and regional regulations, so don’t assume that advice meant for someone else applies to your situation.
Worth knowing: Even vaccinated dogs need urgent veterinary assessment after a suspected exposure. Vaccination significantly reduces risk, but it doesn’t replace professional evaluation.
You don’t need to panic, but you do need to act quickly. Staying calm and decisive is genuinely the most helpful thing you can do for your dog in that moment. And being a prepared pet parent day to day makes all the difference, so make sure you have everything for your dog sorted long before a situation like this arises.
Vaccination and prevention are what protect your dog best
Keeping your dog’s rabies vaccination current is the single most effective thing you can do — and that’s true even if your dog lives a mostly quiet, indoor family life. Rabies doesn’t only find dogs who roam freely. A bat finding its way into the house, a brief garden encounter with a hedgehog, or an off-lead moment in the park are all real scenarios where exposure could happen without any warning.
Practically speaking, sensible prevention doesn’t have to be complicated. Stay on top of booster schedules and put the due date somewhere you’ll genuinely notice it — the fridge, your phone calendar, wherever works for you. If your dog has been to a boarding kennel, a dog show, or travelled abroad, it’s worth checking whether any updated vaccination requirements apply on your return. And where you can, try to reduce unsupervised contact with wildlife, particularly at dawn and dusk when animals like foxes are most active.
Cornell University’s Riney Canine Health Center notes that the most common signs of rabies are behavioral changes and paralysis. It’s a sobering reminder that by the time any warning signs appear, options are already limited. Prevention really is the whole story here.
Good general habits — including regular exercise and routine care — absolutely contribute to a healthier, happier dog. But when it comes to rabies specifically, nothing replaces being vaccinated and staying up to date.
This article is here to help you feel informed, not worried. If you have any concerns about your dog’s behaviour or a possible exposure, please talk to your vet directly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long can a dog carry rabies before showing symptoms?
A dog can carry rabies for quite a while before showing symptoms, most often around 3 to 8 weeks, though it can be as short as a few days or stretch to over a year. During that time, they may look and act completely normal, which is why quick action after any exposure matters.
Can a dog have rabies without you knowing?
Yes, a dog can have rabies without you knowing at first. In the incubation period, they may seem completely normal, and even the earliest changes can look like everyday stress or illness, such as restlessness, hiding, clinginess, or unusual irritability. Any possible exposure should be treated as urgent.
Bringing a new kitten home when you already have a dog is one of those things that feels both exciting and quietly nerve-wracking — and you are definitely not alone in that. Knowing how to introduce a kitten to a dog in a way that feels calm and considered makes a real difference to how both pets settle in together. This guide walks you through everything from scent swapping and first meetings to escape routes, reading the signs, and building a routine that works for the whole household.
Before They Meet: What Your Dog and Kitten Need to Feel Safe
The most successful kitten and dog introductions happen long before the two animals are ever in the same room. That might sound counterintuitive, but the groundwork you lay in the days before their first meeting makes an enormous difference to how both pets experience that moment.
Start by thinking honestly about your dog. A relaxed, older dog who has met cats before is a very different prospect to a young, excitable terrier who still chases squirrels like it’s his life’s work. Neither situation is a deal-breaker, but knowing your dog’s temperament helps you set a realistic pace. If he has a strong prey drive or finds it hard to settle around small, fast-moving animals, plan for a slower introduction and be kind to yourself about the timeline.
Your kitten needs their own safe space before anything else happens. Set up a quiet room they can call their own — somewhere with a cosy bed, a litter tray, food, water, and a spot to hide if the world feels like too much. And to a tiny kitten, it often does. Letting them settle into a calm, familiar base before any introductions begin means they have a chance to find their feet rather than going straight into the deep end.
Your dog needs some reassurance too. Keep their routine as normal as possible: same walks, same mealtimes, same cuddles on the sofa. Consistency tells them that the new arrival is not costing them anything.
A slow start is not a sign things are going wrong. More often than not, it is exactly the right approach. For more on building a bond that lasts, our guide to getting your dog and cat to get along is well worth a read.
How to Swap Scents So They Get Used to Each Other
Before your dog and kitten ever share the same room, letting them get used to each other’s scent is one of the most important steps you can take. Smell is everything to both species. Giving them time to investigate each other’s scent on their own terms, without any pressure or expectation, helps take the edge off that first face-to-face meeting before it even happens.
The swap itself is simple. Take a blanket or soft toy from the kitten’s space and place it somewhere your dog can sniff freely, then do the reverse. A dedicated soft scent blanket works particularly well here because it holds scent effectively and moves easily between rooms. Then just let them get on with it. Some animals will sniff once and wander off. Others will circle back repeatedly over several days. Both are completely normal, and neither needs your input.
Signs of calm curiosity to look for:
Relaxed body posture, loose tail, soft ears
A gentle sniff followed by moving away unbothered
Returning to the item later without fixating on it
Settling nearby without any visible tension
Signs you should slow things down:
Growling or stiffening near the scented item
Fixated staring that doesn’t ease off
Pawing aggressively at a door or barrier
Your kitten hiding, freezing, or refusing to come out of their safe space
How each pet responds at this stage tells you a lot about how to pace the introduction going forward. Rushing the scent swap is one of the most common mistakes people make when introducing a kitten to a dog. Taking an extra few days here costs you nothing, and it can make everything that follows feel significantly calmer for both of them.
The First Face-to-Face Meeting: Keep It Short, Calm, and Supervised
When you finally bring your kitten and dog together for the first time, it can feel like a milestone — and in many ways, it is. But the goal for that very first meeting is actually quite simple: keep it short, keep it calm, and don’t leave either of them to it. Knowing how to introduce a kitten to a dog well comes down to patience and reading the room, not engineering a perfect friendship in one afternoon.
Pick the right moment. Choose a time when your dog has already been out for a walk or had a good play session and is naturally winding down. A settled dog is far easier to work with than one who’s still fizzing with energy.
Keep your dog on a lead with slack. A secure, well-fitted lead gives you gentle control without adding tension your dog might pick up on. Hold it loosely — the aim is guidance, not restraint.
Let the kitten call the shots. Place your kitten in the room and let them decide whether to creep closer or stay put. Don’t carry them over to the dog or try to hurry things along. Their confidence at this stage is everything, and it has to come from them.
Watch both pets closely. A relaxed dog will have soft eyes, a loose body, and general curiosity rather than intense fixation. For your kitten, watch for puffing up, hissing, or sudden stillness — all signs they need a bit more space and breathing room.
Keep it brief. Two or three minutes of calm, drama-free interaction is genuinely a brilliant first session. You can always build from there — and you will.
End before anyone hits their limit. Separate them gently while things are still going well, then give each pet their own space with something familiar nearby.
Good to know: Always wrap up the session before either pet shows signs of stress. Ending on a quiet note isn’t giving up — it’s exactly what a successful introduction looks like.
These early moments set the tone for everything that follows. The calmer and shorter each session feels right now, the quicker trust has a chance to grow between them.
Why Your Kitten Needs an Escape Route and a Dog-Free Zone
One of the most important parts of learning how to introduce a kitten to a dog is making sure your kitten always has somewhere safe to go. Escape routes and dog-free zones are not nice extras to think about later. They are a core part of the plan from day one.
If a kitten feels cornered, even a calm kitten and dog introduction can go off track quickly. Stress rises, confidence drops, and your kitten may hiss, swat, or freeze. Those early moments matter. When your kitten knows it can step away, it is far more likely to stay curious and relaxed instead of frightened.
The easiest way to set this up is to give your kitten more than one retreat option around the house. That might look like:
Baby gates with a cat-sized gap or low perch nearby. Your kitten can pass through or hop over, while your dog stays on the other side.
Cat trees, window perches, or shelving. Height helps kittens feel secure. From up high, they can watch what is going on without feeling pressured to interact.
A dedicated kitten room. In the early days, this can be a spare room or quiet corner with the door gated off. It gives your kitten a place to eat, nap, use the litter tray, and properly switch off.
A covered bed or crate left open. Some kittens love a small, cosy hideaway, especially after a busy introduction session.
Think about the route too, not just the resting spot. If your kitten jumps down from a shelf, can it get to safety without running past the dog? Can it move from one room to another without feeling trapped? These small details make introducing cats and dogs much smoother in real life.
Your kitten should always be able to remove itself from the interaction. That sense of choice is what builds confidence. Over time, a kitten that feels safe enough to retreat will usually feel safe enough to come back, sniff, observe, and eventually settle beside the dog on its own terms.
What Good Progress Looks Like — and When to Slow Down
Progress when introducing a kitten to a dog rarely follows a straight line. Some days feel like a real breakthrough. Others, it might seem like you’re back to square one. That’s completely normal — and knowing what to watch for means you can respond calmly rather than second-guessing yourself.
Signs the Introduction Is Going Well
Your dog glances at the kitten and looks away, showing curiosity rather than fixation
Both animals have loose, relaxed body posture when they’re in the same room together
Your kitten approaches the barrier or shared space with interest, rather than bolting
Your dog settles down and rests while the kitten moves around nearby
Both animals are eating, playing, and sleeping as normal, without signs of sustained stress
Signs You Need to Slow Down
Your dog is stalking, staring intensely, or can’t be redirected away from the kitten
Either animal freezes repeatedly when the other appears
Your kitten is hissing, spitting, or spending most of their time hiding rather than exploring
Your dog is barking, lunging, or whining in a focused, persistent way
Stress behaviours are creeping in regularly — think panting, pacing, or a change in appetite
A gentle reminder: Spotting a warning sign isn’t a failure. Stepping back a stage is exactly the right call. One slower day now saves a lot of stress further down the line.
Even the most experienced pet parents find that introducing a kitten to a dog takes longer than they expected. The key is staying observant and trusting what you’re seeing in front of you. Understanding your dog’s body language is one of the most valuable skills you can bring to this process — it helps you read the room early and respond before small moments of tension have a chance to grow.
Settling Into Everyday Life: Building a Routine They Can Both Live With
Once the early introductions are behind you, the real magic starts to happen in the everyday moments. Building a predictable routine is one of the kindest things you can do for both your dog and your new kitten — consistency helps anxious animals relax, and gives confident ones the structure to thrive.
Start with mealtimes. Feed them separately, in their own spaces, at the same times each day. It removes tension around food and helps both pets associate mealtimes with calm rather than competition. As trust builds, you can gradually move their feeding spots closer together — but there’s genuinely no rush.
Enrichment matters more than people realise. A bored dog is far more likely to fixate on the kitten, so make sure yours is getting enough exercise, mental stimulation, and quality time with you. A well-exercised dog is simply easier to manage around a curious new housemate. The same logic applies to your kitten. A good play session before they share a space can take the edge off for both of them.
Keep noticing and reinforcing the positive moments. When your dog settles calmly nearby, acknowledge it. When your kitten starts exploring without darting for cover, that’s real progress — even if it looks small. Those little wins add up faster than you’d expect.
Supervision doesn’t need to be constant forever, but in those first few weeks it’s worth staying present when they share a room. As you see them both relax, you can start stepping back.
Introducing a kitten to a dog well takes patience, but a thoughtful routine makes it so much easier to get there. Much like settling a new puppy into your home, the time you invest in those early weeks builds the foundation for something that genuinely lasts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for a dog to get used to a kitten?
It depends on your dog’s temperament and the pace of the introduction, so there isn’t a fixed timeline. Some dogs settle quickly, while others need a much slower approach, especially if they’re excitable or have a strong prey drive. Calm, short, supervised sessions usually lead to better long-term progress.
How do I tell if my dog wants to eat my kitten?
Watch for intense staring, stalking, barking, lunging, or a level of fixation you can’t easily interrupt. A dog who is coping well will look relaxed, stay curious without locking on, and settle while the kitten moves nearby. If your dog can’t disengage, slow everything down and add more distance.
How long does it take for a cat to get used to a new dog?
There isn’t a set timeline, because each kitten or cat settles at their own pace. Confidence tends to grow more smoothly when they have a safe room, escape routes, and short, calm introductions on their own terms. Steady, low-pressure progress matters far more than trying to rush a friendship.
Summer with a dog means making a hundred small decisions about how to keep them comfortable, and knowing where to start with the best cooling products for dogs is genuinely half the job done. This guide covers everything from cooling mats and breathable beds to wearable options for walks, frozen treats that double as enrichment, and simple tips for reading your dog’s signals in the heat. Think of it as a practical summer toolkit built around how your dog actually lives, not just a list of things that exist.
Best cooling products for dogs: what actually helps on hot days
When summer arrives, keeping your dog comfortable becomes something you think about constantly. The paddling pool comes out, walks shift to early mornings, and you find yourself eyeing up every cooling product on the market. With so many options out there, though, it can be genuinely hard to know what will actually help your dog.
This roundup covers the best cooling products for dogs across every situation: lazy days at home, warm-weather walks, post-exercise wind-downs, and everything in between. Whether your dog is a sprawler who claims the entire living room floor, a velcro dog who insists on being by your side no matter the temperature, or a food-motivated soul who’d do anything for a frozen treat, there’s something here that fits.
When pulling this together, a few things kept coming back as what really matters: how comfortable your dog will actually find a product, how easy it is to use day to day, whether it travels well, and crucially, whether it suits how your dog naturally moves and rests. A dog cooling vest is brilliant for some dogs and completely ignored by others. A cooling mat can be a genuine game-changer or something to sniff once and walk away from.
Knowing your dog is genuinely half the battle here. A whippet who drapes herself across cool tiles needs something different from a retriever who runs hot and still wants to be outside at noon.
If you’re also thinking about where your dog sleeps day to day, our guide on how to pick a dog bed is a great place to start.
Cooling mats, beds and chill-out spots for dogs who love to sprawl
For dogs who belly-flop onto the floor the second they’re back from a walk, a cooler place to rest can make summer much more comfortable. When you’re choosing the best cooling products for dogs, start with where they naturally settle. If your dog naps in the kitchen, by the back door, or in a shady garden corner, that’s where a cooling setup will actually earn its keep.
Gel-filled cooling mat: A classic cooling mat for dogs because it’s easy, pressure-activated, and ready whenever your dog needs it. Best for: quick post-walk cool-downs on warm indoor floors.
Elevated mesh bed: Lifting your dog off patios, decking, or stuffy floors helps air circulate underneath them. Best for: garden lounging or warmer rooms upstairs.
Breathable dog cooling bed: A cushioned option suits dogs who don’t love the firmer feel of a mat. Look for breathable fill and washable covers for everyday summer use. Best for: longer naps and overnight sleeping.
Dog crate with cosy calming bed: If your dog likes a den-like space, this Lords & Labradors crate-and-bed setup can work well as a calm rest spot in a cooler part of the house. It’s less about active cooling and more about giving your dog somewhere settled and shaded to switch off after time outside. Best for: dogs who relax better in their own quiet corner.
Waterproof cooling mat with non-slip base: Handy for outdoor use because it stays put better on smooth surfaces. Best for: shaded patio or decking time.
A few simple summer dog cooling tips make these products work better. Keep beds and mats out of direct sun, offer them in the spots your dog already chooses, and pair them with fresh water nearby. Even the best dog cooling products won’t help much if they’re placed in a baking conservatory or a patch of afternoon sun.
Cooling coats, vests and bandanas for walks in warm weather
For dogs who still want their walk no matter the weather, wearable cooling gear can make a real difference. Whether it’s a determined Labrador pulling towards the park or a Frenchie who absolutely insists on their morning route, the right kit helps them stay comfortable without cutting things short. These products work hardest during heatwaves, midday outings, or any time your dog is already panting before you’ve reached the end of the street.
Product Type
Best For
How It Works
Key Benefit
Cooling coat
Active, larger breeds on longer walks
Soaked in water, cools through evaporation
Covers a larger surface area for sustained cooling
Cooling vest
Brachycephalic breeds like Bulldogs and Pugs
Lightweight fit around the chest and torso
Less restrictive, easier breathing for flat-faced dogs
Cooling bandana
Dogs that overheat quickly or dislike full body coverage
Wet fabric around the neck cools blood vessels
Simple, low-fuss option for mild heat or shorter outings
A few tips to get the most out of wearable cooling products:
Pre-soak coats and bandanas in cold water before you leave the house
Avoid peak sun hours where you can, typically 11am to 3pm in summer
Check the fit as you go — wet fabric can shift and rub more than you’d expect
Top up with water on longer walks if panting starts to pick up
Wearable coolers work best as part of a wider summer routine rather than a standalone solution. If you’re building out your dog’s warm weather kit, browse dog coats and cooling wear at Lords & Labradors to find something that suits your dog’s size and shape.
Frozen treats, lick mats and water-first products that help dogs cool from the inside out
Some of the easiest summer wins are the ones you can prep in a few minutes and use every day. Frozen treats, lick mats, and water-first feeders can help your dog enjoy small amounts of moisture or chilled food gradually, while also giving them something soothing to focus on when it is too warm for much activity. If you are putting together the best cooling products for dogs, these simple options deserve a place in the mix.
Freeze-filled Kongs: Stuff with wet food, mashed banana, or a dog-safe peanut butter and pop in the freezer for a longer-lasting chew.
Lick mats with yogurt or bone broth: Spread a thin layer and freeze for a calming activity that slows licking and keeps busy minds occupied.
Dog-safe ice cube treats: Freeze diluted low-salt broth or fruit puree in small moulds for easy, mess-light snacks.
Frozen enrichment feeders: Fill puzzle toys and freeze them to add a bit of mental stimulation during the hottest part of the day.
Hydration toppers: A spoonful of water-rich topper or a splash of low-sodium broth over dinner can tempt fussy dogs to take in a little more fluid.
Chilled fruit pieces: Watermelon, cucumber, and blueberries are easy favourites for many dogs.
Good to know: Frozen treats are best thought of as a gentle way to offer cooling foods and extra moisture little by little, rather than a replacement for fresh drinking water.
What we love about these ideas is how practical they are. They cool, distract, and settle your dog at the same time, which is a lifesaver on sticky afternoons. If you want more enrichment ideas, take a look at the dog toys at Lords & Labradors for freezer-friendly options that work well through summer.
How to time walks, spot overheating and choose the right cooling product
Getting the timing right makes just as much difference as anything you put in your basket. In August, aim to walk before 8am or after 7pm, once the pavement has had a chance to cool down. Not sure if it’s safe? Press the back of your hand to the ground for seven seconds. If it’s uncomfortable for you, it’s too hot for your dog’s paws.
Know the signs that mean it’s time to stop. Heavy, rapid panting, excessive drooling, stumbling, glazed eyes, or a sudden reluctance to keep moving are all red flags. Spot more than one together and act quickly: get them into shade, offer small sips of water, and apply cool (not icy) water to their paws, belly and neck. If they don’t come round within a few minutes, call your vet.
Choosing the right cooling product doesn’t have to be complicated. Think about where and how your dog struggles most with the heat. A dog who sprawls out between walks will get the most from a cooling mat or dog cooling bed, especially older dogs or those with joint issues who already love a good lie-down. For dogs who overheat on the move, a dog cooling vest or bandana offers real relief while they’re actually out and about. Smaller dogs and puppies usually do better with lighter wearables and regular water breaks rather than bulkier gear.
Coat type is worth factoring in too. Thick or double-coated breeds trap heat more readily, so combining a cooling vest with a frozen treat after the walk is a genuinely effective pairing. Short-coated dogs regulate a little more easily, but they still need consistent access to shade and fresh water throughout the day.
If you’re unsure about sizing for any wearable, our dog drying coat size guide uses the same measurements and is a straightforward place to start.
The best cooling products for dogs are simply the ones that fit how your dog actually lives. A little observation goes a long way.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best thing to cool a dog?
The best thing depends on when your dog struggles most. For resting at home, a cooling mat, elevated bed or breathable cooling bed usually helps most; for walks, a soaked cooling vest or bandana works better. Fresh water, shade and cooler walk times make every option more effective.
What is the best cooling food for dogs?
The best cooling foods for dogs are simple frozen, water-rich treats that add moisture little by little. Good options include freeze-filled Kongs, frozen lick mats with yogurt or bone broth, dog-safe ice treats, and chilled watermelon, cucumber or blueberries alongside plenty of fresh drinking water.
How do I cool my dog off without AC?
You can cool a dog without AC by moving them into shade, offering small sips of water, and using cool resting spots like a cooling mat, elevated bed or breathable bed in the part of the house they already choose. Frozen treats, wet bandanas and avoiding hot walk times help too.
That soft, rhythmic pawing your cat does just before they curl up and drift off is one of those behaviours that’s easy to love but harder to explain. In this article, we’ll walk you through why do cats knead before sleeping, what it says about how your cat is feeling, and when it’s worth keeping a closer eye on things. We’ll also share a few simple ways to make the whole bedtime ritual cosier and more comfortable for both of you.
Why cats knead before sleeping
If you’ve ever watched your cat rhythmically push their paws into a blanket, your lap, or a soft cushion just before curling up, you’ve witnessed one of the most endearing things cats do. It’s called kneading — and if you’ve heard it referred to as “making biscuits,” you’ll immediately understand why.
So why do cats knead before sleeping specifically? The short answer: it’s deeply tied to comfort and the physical ritual of winding down. As your cat shifts into sleep mode, their body starts signalling that it’s time to feel safe and settled. Kneading is part of that signal. It’s rhythmic, self-soothing, almost meditative.
You’ll usually notice it happening on soft surfaces — your favourite jumper, a cosy throw, or a well-loved cat bed. That softness isn’t incidental. It triggers something instinctive that tells your cat this is the right place to rest.
Cat kneading meaning does shift depending on the situation, but in a pre-sleep context it’s almost always a sign of contentment. Your cat isn’t unsettled or confused. They’re doing exactly what a happy, comfortable cat does when they feel truly at home — and honestly, once you understand that, it’s hard not to find it completely charming.
The kittenhood instinct cats never quite outgrow
Most cats knead before they drift off, and the habit usually starts right back in kittenhood. Newborn kittens press their paws against their mother’s belly to help stimulate milk flow, and that gentle, repetitive motion becomes wrapped up in some of their earliest feelings of warmth, safety, and being cared for.
That is a big part of why cats knead before sleeping as adults. It is not always about one single trigger. For many cats, it is a soothing routine that links sleep with comfort and security.
Here is why that early instinct often sticks around:
Self-soothing: the steady, rhythmic motion can help a cat relax, especially when they are getting ready to settle for the night
Recreating early security: kneading can bring back that sense of closeness and reassurance they felt as kittens
Winding down for sleep: just like circling before lying down, kneading can become part of a familiar bedtime ritual
Soft textures encourage it: cosy, plush spots often bring out the behaviour more than firm surfaces, which is why many cats love a soft cat blanket before bed
Bonding with you: if your cat kneads on your lap, chest, or blanket, it is often a sign they feel deeply safe in your company
So if you have ever wondered, “why does my cat knead me right before falling asleep?”, the answer often comes back to comfort, memory, and instinct. Cat kneading meaning can be layered, but before sleep it is very often a quiet little sign that your cat feels secure, settled, and completely at home.
Comfort, scent marking, and making the perfect sleep spot
If you’ve ever caught yourself wondering why cats knead before sleeping, the honest answer is that it’s rarely just one thing. When your cat works away at your duvet, kneads a soft blanket into just the right shape, or spends a solid minute pressing at your lap before finally settling, they’re doing several things at once. It’s self-soothing, nest-building, and a quiet little territorial claim on their favourite spot, all bundled into one rhythmic, deeply satisfying routine.
Here’s what’s really going on during those pre-sleep biscuit-making sessions:
Instinctive nest-building. Cats are hardwired to shape a surface before lying down on it. It’s a throwback to wild ancestors who’d pat down grass or leaves to create a safe, comfortable resting place — and that instinct hasn’t gone anywhere.
Stress relief and self-soothing. The repetitive motion is genuinely calming. At its core, cat kneading is often simply a cat winding down and regulating their own emotions after a long, exhausting day of napping and quietly judging you.
Scent marking their space. Cats have scent glands in their paws, so every knead leaves a subtle “this is mine” message behind. It’s exactly why they return to the same blanket, the same cushion, the same corner of your lap, night after night.
A sign they feel safe. When your cat makes biscuits on you or right beside you, they’re completely relaxed and at home. That’s worth appreciating.
Together, these behaviours are your cat’s version of pulling back the duvet and fluffing the pillows. Giving them a dedicated cat blanket to knead and scent-mark can work beautifully here — something soft that becomes entirely, unmistakably theirs.
When kneading is completely normal — and when to pay closer attention
For most cats, kneading before sleeping is as routine as a human fluffing their pillow — one of their most natural, self-soothing habits, and rarely anything to worry about.
Normal Kneading Behaviour
Signs Worth Monitoring
Rhythmic, relaxed pawing on bedding or your lap
Frantic or compulsive kneading that doesn’t settle
Quiet purring or soft trilling
Vocalising with distress, whimpering, or growling
Loose, relaxed body posture
Stiff limbs, hunched back, or visible tension
Kneading on soft, supportive surfaces
Repeatedly kneading on hard or unsuitable surfaces
Consistent, occasional frequency
A sudden increase or complete stop in kneading habits
A few things worth mentioning to your vet:
Kneading paired with persistent restlessness or an inability to settle
Skin irritation, hair loss, or soreness around the paws from over-kneading
A sudden change in kneading behaviour with no obvious cause
Kneading accompanied by excessive vocalising or signs of pain
The reassuring truth is that the vast majority of pre-sleep kneading simply means your cat feels safe and comfortable. If they’re obsessively pawing at a hard or scratchy surface, the surface is usually the problem, not the behaviour itself. Cats instinctively seek out something soft and secure to knead into, and when they find it, they tend to settle more quickly and calmly. Something like the Sleepy Burrows Calming Bed is designed with exactly that in mind — giving them the kind of cosy, enveloping surface that makes the whole bedtime ritual feel just right.
How to make kneading time safer and more cosy for both of you
A few small tweaks can make kneading time much more enjoyable for everyone involved — claws and all.
Start with regular claw trims. It doesn’t have to be a big deal. Little and often works well, and most cats tolerate it far better once it becomes part of the routine. Blunter claws mean you can actually enjoy those slow, rhythmic presses without quietly bracing for the moment your cat finds a thin patch of blanket.
Speaking of blankets, giving your cat their own dedicated kneading spot makes a genuine difference. A thick, soft layer they can claim as their own protects your lap, your sofa, and your sanity. If your cat likes to knead before settling down, a plush bed gives them something satisfying to sink into. The Cornell Feline Health Center notes that cats like to seek out warm places to rest, so having a cosy spot ready after a kneading session is always worth it. Our High Wall Boucle Bed for Cats fits the bill beautifully — soft texture, snug high sides, and the kind of enclosed feel cats tend to gravitate towards.
Ultimately, cat kneading before sleeping is one of those small, quiet habits that says something rather lovely: your cat feels safe, settled, and completely at home with you. A few claw marks on the blanket is a pretty fair trade for that.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are cats happy when they knead?
Yes — when cats knead before sleeping, it’s usually a strong sign they feel happy, safe, and comfortable. The motion is soothing, often linked to kittenhood, and commonly shows up as part of a relaxed bedtime routine on soft blankets, beds, or even your lap.
Should you pet a cat while kneading?
Yes, if your cat seems relaxed and enjoys it, gentle petting can fit naturally into kneading time. Kneading before sleep usually means your cat feels safe and settled, so soft strokes can add to that cosy moment — just pay attention to their body language and let them set the pace.
Getting the right fit for your dog’s crate makes a bigger difference than most people realise, and knowing how to choose the right size dog crate is simpler than it looks once you have a few key numbers to hand. This guide walks you through measuring your dog properly, planning ahead for a growing puppy, and thinking about how the crate will fit into your everyday life. You’ll also find advice on the extras that help a crate feel like a proper den rather than just a box your dog happens to sleep in.
How to choose the right size dog crate without second-guessing yourself
Choosing the right crate size comes down to one simple idea: your dog needs enough room to stand up, turn around, and stretch out comfortably — but not so much space that it stops feeling like a cosy den and starts feeling like a draughty hallway.
That balance matters more than most people expect. A crate that’s too large can leave a dog feeling unsettled, particularly during those early weeks of getting used to it. Dogs are naturally drawn to snug, enclosed spaces, and a well-fitted crate tends to feel far more reassuring than one with room to spare.
The most common mistake? Sizing by breed name alone. A “Labrador-sized” crate sounds like it should cover it, but two Labs can look completely different in build. A lean working type and a stockier show dog might need very different dimensions. So before you start comparing products, get your dog’s actual measurements: length from nose to tail, and height from the floor to the top of their head when standing. Those two numbers will do most of the work for you.
The other key decision is whether you’re buying for a puppy or a fully grown dog. Puppies grow quickly — sometimes faster than you’d think — so crate sizing for a puppy involves a little more forward planning than sizing for an adult.
Get clear on those two things first: your dog’s measurements and their life stage. Once you have both, the rest of the decision becomes much more straightforward. Our dog crate sets are a great place to start browsing once you’ve got your numbers to hand.
Start with your dog’s measurements, not the breed label
Breed labels are a helpful starting point, but they’re not reliable enough to base a purchase on. A Cocker Spaniel can come in wildly different shapes and sizes depending on their lineage and build, and the same goes for almost every breed. Getting your dog’s actual measurements is the only way to feel genuinely confident about how to choose the right size dog crate.
Here’s how to do it properly:
Body length: Measure from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail (not the tip). This gives you the minimum internal length the crate needs to be.
Standing height: Measure from the floor to the top of the head or ears while your dog stands naturally. This tells you how tall the crate needs to be.
Natural posture: Notice whether your dog stands tall and upright or carries themselves low and compact. Two dogs with identical measurements can still need slightly different headroom depending on how they naturally hold themselves.
A note on weight: Useful as a rough guide, but never the whole story. Two 30kg Labradors can easily need different crate sizes based on build and bone structure alone.
Once you have your dog’s measurements, add around 10cm to both figures. Your dog should be able to stand up, turn around, and stretch out comfortably without brushing the sides. That’s the sweet spot. If you’re still finding your feet with crates generally, our introduction to dog crates is a great place to start before you buy.
Getting the fit right for a puppy who’s still growing
Figuring out what size crate to buy for a puppy is one of the trickier parts of those early weeks. You want something that fits them now without being so roomy it sets back toilet training, but you also don’t want to find yourself buying a second crate six months down the line. The good news is you don’t have to.
A crate with a divider panel is the most practical solution for a growing pup. Start with the panel positioned to give your puppy just enough room to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, then gradually move it back as they grow. The space stays snug and den-like throughout, without you having to start from scratch.
A few things worth keeping in mind as you work out the right crate sizing for your dog:
Base your crate choice on your breed’s expected adult measurements, then work backwards
Measure your puppy every two to three weeks, particularly during fast growth phases
Adjust the divider when they start looking cramped or can no longer stretch out fully
Resist jumping up a size too soon — a crate that feels vast rarely feels safe to a young dog
If your pup is a mix, ask your vet for a realistic adult size estimate rather than guessing
Those in-between months go quickly, and a bit of forward planning makes the whole thing far less stressful. Pairing a well-sized crate with a grow-with-me puppy bed means the sleeping space keeps pace with your pup too, so nothing ever feels too big or too sparse along the way.
Choose the crate size for how you’ll actually use it day to day
Knowing how to choose the right size dog crate isn’t just about measuring your dog from nose to tail. Where the crate will live and what you’ll actually use it for each day shapes the decision just as much as the numbers do.
Overnight sleeping. For nighttime use, a snug, den-like fit works best. A crate that’s too roomy can feel unsettling rather than secure, especially for dogs who take a while to wind down.
Toilet training a puppy. Keep it cosy. Too much space and a puppy may decide one end is the bathroom. Crate sizing for dogs in training works best when there’s just enough room to stand, turn, and lie down comfortably.
Quiet time or a safe retreat. If the crate doubles as your dog’s go-to calm spot throughout the day, a little extra room to stretch out is a genuinely kind choice.
Car travel. Consider boot space and how often the crate needs moving. A lightweight, collapsible option will usually serve you better than a heavier everyday crate.
A permanent spot in a shared living space. Here, aesthetics matter alongside fit. You want something that looks as good in your home as it feels for your dog.
Think through your typical week before you decide. Browse the Lords & Labradors crate collection to find options designed around how real dogs and families actually live.
Don’t forget the extras that make the crate feel right
Once you’ve settled on the right crate size, what you put inside it matters just as much as the dimensions themselves. The right extras can turn a plain wire box into somewhere your dog genuinely wants to spend time — but bulky or mismatched accessories can eat into the floor space you carefully measured. It’s worth thinking about each one before you buy.
Here’s what to keep in mind:
A well-fitted bed or mattress gives your dog a comfortable surface without bunching up against the sides. Flat, supportive options tend to work better than thick, oversized cushions that reduce usable space.
A crate cover cuts out visual stimulation and creates a darker, den-like feel that helps many dogs settle more quickly — especially useful in busier households where there’s always something going on.
A bumper set lines the inner walls with soft padding, which is particularly helpful for puppies who tend to press or lean against the sides. It adds warmth and cosiness without dramatically reducing floor space.
Our cosy crate bed set brings all of these elements together in one thoughtfully designed package, so everything fits and works as it should from day one.
The goal is a snug interior that feels calm and safe — not a cramped one. Get both the crate size and the setup right, and your dog has the best possible foundation for settling in happily.
How to make the final choice with confidence
When you’ve done the measuring, thought about your dog’s daily routine, and browsed your options, the final choice usually comes down to a handful of simple things. Run through this quick checklist before you commit.
Start with your dog’s measurements. Nose to tail and floor to the top of the ears are your two non-negotiables. Add around 10cm to each, and you’ve got the internal crate dimensions you’re actually shopping for.
Check the fit feels cosy, not cavernous. Dogs who love to curl up in a corner often feel more settled in a snugger space. If you’re buying ahead for a growing puppy, use a divider to keep things proportional now and simply move it back as they fill out.
Think about where the crate will live. A crate destined for the car boot has different needs to one tucked into a bedroom corner. Measure doorways, check your boot space, and picture where this crate will actually spend its time.
Don’t overlook the finishing touches. A well-chosen crate cover can turn even a slightly generous-sized crate into a proper den. Take a look at the Lords and Labradors crate cover collection to find something that suits both your crate and your home.
Choosing the right size dog crate really does come down to measuring carefully, thinking practically, and trusting what you already know about your dog. You know them best.
Dogs are brilliant at keeping up appearances, and spotting the signs your dog is in pain often comes down to noticing the small, easy-to-brush-off shifts in their everyday behaviour. In this article, we cover what those hidden signals actually look like, what might be causing them, and when it’s time to pick up the phone to your vet. We’ve also pulled together some simple ways to keep your dog comfortable at home while you wait for answers.
Why dogs hide pain so well — and why it’s easy to miss
Dogs are remarkably good at hiding pain, and it has nothing to do with stubbornness or being “dramatic.” It comes down to instinct. In the wild, showing weakness could make an animal vulnerable, so dogs learned to carry on as normally as possible even when they were uncomfortable. That survival instinct is still there, even if your dog’s biggest challenge today is beating you to the best spot on the sofa.
That is what makes the signs your dog is in pain so easy to miss at first. Your dog may still greet you at the door, get excited for dinner, or trot over when you pick up the lead. On the surface, they seem mostly normal. But underneath, something may have changed.
Often, the hidden signs of pain in dogs are small. Your dog might pause before jumping into the car, settle down more slowly than usual, seem a bit quieter, or keep licking the same spot on their leg. These are not random quirks or a phase. They are dog discomfort signs, and they matter.
Spotting signs of pain in dogs early can help your vet get to the cause sooner and stop things from getting worse. It also helps you support your dog more gently at home while you work out what is going on.
The best starting point is knowing your dog’s usual habits, energy, and body language. When you know their normal, it is much easier to spot when something feels off. If you are unsure what to look for, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a helpful place to start.
The subtle signs your dog is in pain but hiding it
Most dogs are remarkably good at carrying on as normal even when something hurts, which means the signs your dog is in pain are often quiet, easy-to-dismiss shifts in everyday behaviour rather than dramatic yelping or obvious limping. Every dog is different too. One might go quiet and withdrawn while another becomes clingy and shadow-like. There’s no single script for how dogs show discomfort, which is exactly what makes it so easy to miss.
Here are the most common signs to watch for:
Reluctance to use stairs or jump up — if your dog hesitates at the bottom of the stairs or stops leaping onto the sofa they once claimed as their own, something may be making movement uncomfortable.
Slower on walks, or losing interest in them — a dog who used to drag you to the park but now hangs back or wants to turn home early may be hurting, not bored.
Licking or chewing one spot repeatedly — dogs often focus attention on a painful area, even when the source is internal rather than on the skin.
Panting without an obvious cause — panting after a run is normal; panting while resting on a cool evening is worth noting.
Hiding or withdrawing — choosing to sit alone in another room is a classic instinctive response to not feeling right.
Grumpiness when touched — flinching, growling, or snapping when you stroke a particular area is a clear signal that something is wrong there.
Changes in sleep — sleeping far more than usual, or seeming restless and unable to settle, can both point to discomfort.
Reduced appetite — pain is tiring and distracting, and many dogs simply lose interest in food when they’re struggling.
Unusual clinginess — some dogs do the opposite of withdrawing and become velcro-like, seeking reassurance constantly.
Postural changes — a hunched back, tucked tail, or reluctance to stand fully can all suggest that holding a normal position hurts.
Research backs up just how tuned-in owners are to these shifts. In a study where owners documented behavioural changes in dogs during the first week after clinical discharge, and veterinarians independently reviewed the videos as a reference perspective, the most commonly reported changes were in walking, playing with objects, and playing with their owner — all everyday things any dog parent would naturally pick up on.
Worth knowing: Hidden signs of pain in dogs rarely arrive all at once. More often they build gradually, or appear in small clusters. One quieter morning means little. A dog who has been slower, less playful, and off their food for several days is telling you something.
You don’t need to know what’s wrong to act on what you’re seeing. Noticing these patterns early is often the difference between catching something minor and letting it go unchecked — and no one knows your dog better than you do.
What can cause pain in dogs?
Pain in dogs can come from all sorts of everyday issues, not just major illness or obvious injury. If you’re noticing subtle signs your dog is in pain, it often helps to think about what might be going on physically as well as behaviourally.
Common causes of pain in dogs include:
Sore or stiff joints: your dog may rise more slowly, hesitate before climbing stairs, or stop jumping onto the sofa like they used to
Sprains and minor injuries: a pulled muscle, strained paw, or small cut can lead to licking, limping, or favouring one side
Dental pain: dogs with toothache might drop food, chew on one side, or go off crunchy treats
Ear problems: ear discomfort often shows up as head shaking, scratching, or seeming unusually grumpy when touched
Skin irritation: sore, itchy patches under the fur can make a dog restless, twitchy, or unsettled at bedtime
Digestive upset: tummy pain may cause pacing, a hunched posture, or less interest in meals
Age-related stiffness: older dogs can slow down so gradually that dog discomfort signs are easy to mistake for “just ageing”
Pain does not look the same in every dog. Some become quiet and clingy, while others seem restless, snappy, or less like themselves. For joint stiffness in particular, gentle daily movement can help support comfort. This guide to regular exercise for dogs is a helpful place to start.
When to call the vet — and what not to do at home
Some signs your dog is in pain are easy to dismiss as an off day — but certain symptoms should always prompt a vet call rather than a wait-and-see approach.
Pick up the phone if you notice:
Sudden changes in behaviour or movement with no obvious cause
Symptoms lasting more than 24 to 48 hours without improvement
Signs that are getting worse, not staying the same
Limping, stiffness, or reluctance to put weight on a limb
Vomiting, loss of appetite, or refusing water
Laboured, shallow, or unusually fast breathing
Whimpering, flinching when touched, or out-of-character aggression
And a really important one: never give your dog human pain relief. Ibuprofen and paracetamol are both toxic to dogs and can cause serious harm, even in small doses. Always wait for your vet’s guidance before giving anything.
In the meantime, jot down a few notes before your appointment. It sounds simple, but it genuinely helps:
When the symptoms first appeared and how they’ve changed since
Which specific behaviours feel different, even the ones that seem minor
Whether anything could have triggered it — a tumble, a new walk route, a boisterous play session
Any recent changes to their diet, routine, or environment
Your vet will get a much clearer picture from that kind of detail, and your dog gets answers faster. You’re also welcome to share your pet’s details with us at Lords & Labradors — we’re always happy to help however we can.
How to make an uncomfortable dog more comfortable while you wait
While you’re waiting for your vet appointment, there are some simple things you can do to help your dog feel more settled without risking making things worse.
Keep movement gentle and short. A slow potter around the garden is fine; long walks, boisterous play, and anything involving a lot of jumping around is best avoided for now. If your dog normally charges up the stairs or vaults onto the sofa, try to discourage that too. A ramp or set of pet steps can make a real difference here, letting them get where they want to go without putting extra strain on sore joints or muscles.
Their sleeping setup is worth thinking about too. A soft, supportive surface does a lot of quiet work when a dog is uncomfortable. If you’ve noticed them circling before lying down, hesitating to settle, or getting up more slowly than usual, those can all be dog pain symptoms centred around the joints. An orthopaedic or high-walled bed helps take pressure off the bits that are hurting and gives them somewhere genuinely comfortable to rest while they recover.
Beyond that, try to keep their routine as normal as you can. Dogs take real comfort from predictability, and familiar mealtimes and gentle outings can help keep anxiety in check while their body does its thing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you tell a dog is suffering?
You can often tell a dog is suffering by small changes in behaviour rather than dramatic crying or limping. Watch for slowing down on walks, reluctance to jump or use stairs, repeated licking, panting at rest, hiding, grumpiness when touched, appetite changes, restlessness, or unusual clinginess.
What position do dogs lay in when in pain?
Dogs in pain often lie or stand in ways that protect the sore area, such as with a hunched back, a tucked tail, or a reluctance to stretch out fully. You might also notice them circling, hesitating before lying down, or struggling to get comfortable and settle.
How to know if a dog is in pain or hurt?
You usually know a dog is in pain or hurt by noticing what feels different from their normal routine and body language. Common clues include stiffness, limping, slower walks, avoiding stairs or jumps, licking one area, panting without cause, eating less, withdrawing, or becoming unusually clingy or snappy.
At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog. Luxury dog crates...
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At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog.
Luxury dog crates
All our deluxe dog crates are made from pet-safe metal and feature removable trays to make them practical and super easy to clean. With sizes ranging from small to XXL, there’s a dog crate set to suit all breeds. Crates are essential when it comes to house training your new puppy. We always suggest buying a larger size dog crate and bed for your puppy so they can grow into it, saving you from having to purchase a new crate when they’re older.
Luxury crate bedding
Our luxury bedding is hand-crafted and designed to the highest quality, appearing both practical and stylish. Bumpers sit around the edge of the crate cushion to provide a super-soft wall of comfort for your pooch. All our bumpers and cushions feature waterproof linings in case of any accidents. It’s recommended to choose a dog crate with a cover – they’ll provide your draughty, bare cage with a fresh new look and offer some privacy for your dog too. They’re particularly great for helping young puppies settle into their night-time routines and offer nervous dogs an extra feeling of security.
Purchase your dog crate set online today
Treat your four-legged friend to one of our stylish dog crate, cover, bedding and bumper sets by browsing our online range today. If you’re struggling to decide which one would be perfect for your pooch, contact our team today who will be more than happy to help. You’ll have 28 days to return your product if you’re unhappy with it for any reason. Our Lords & Labradors items also come with a 365-day quality guarantee, so it’s easy to see why we’ve received so many positive reviews. We also offer free delivery on all orders over £75. Browse the range and order your dog crate set today.
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