A small, affectionate dog breed with a distinctive fluffy white coat. Known for their lively and friendly nature, they make excellent companions and adapt well to various living environments. Regular grooming and moderate exercise are important for their well-being.
Welcome to the comprehensive guide on Bichon Frises, your ultimate resource for understanding the personality, traits, health, training, exercise needs, and care tips for these adorable fluffy companions. Whether you're a seasoned Bichon Frise owner or considering adding one to your family, this guide aims to provide valuable insights and practical advice to ensure a harmonious relationship with your furry friend. To shop our Bichon Frise must haves, click here
Unveiling Bichon Frise Personality and Traits
Bichon Frises are renowned for their charming personalities and delightful traits. Affectionate, playful, and sociable, these little dogs thrive on human companionship and love to be the centre of attention. Their cheerful disposition and gentle nature make them excellent family pets and companions for individuals of all ages. Bichons are known for their intelligence, agility, and eagerness to please, which makes them relatively easy to train and enjoy learning new tricks.
Exploring Bichon Frise Facts and Information
Originating from the Mediterranean region, Bichon Frises belong to the toy dog breed group and have a long history as beloved companions and entertainers.
Their distinctive fluffy white coat is hypoallergenic and requires regular grooming to prevent matting and maintain their signature appearance.
Bichons are generally healthy dogs with a lifespan of 12 to 15 years.
Understanding Bichon Frise Health Issues
While Bichon Frises are generally robust dogs, it's essential to be aware of potential health issues that may affect them.
Allergies: Bichons may develop skin allergies, so it's essential to monitor their diet and environment.
Dental Health: Regular dental care is vital to prevent dental issues in these small breeds.
Ear Infections: Bichon Frises are susceptible to ear infections due to their floppy ears, necessitating regular cleaning.
Regular vet check-ups, a balanced diet, proper dental care, and regular exercise can help maintain their overall health and well-being.
Bichon Frise Training: Tips for Success
Training a Bichon Frise requires patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement techniques. Start training early to establish good habits and prevent behavioural issues. Use rewards such as treats, praise, and playtime to motivate your Bichon and make learning fun and engaging.
House Training a Bichon Frise Puppy
House training a Bichon Frise puppy can be a rewarding experience with the right approach. Establish a consistent schedule for feeding, toilet breaks, and crate training. Supervise your puppy closely indoors and provide ample opportunities for outdoor elimination. Accidents may happen, but with patience, consistency and positive reinforcement, your Bichon will learn the ropes of house training.
Bichon Frise Exercise Needs: Keeping Them Active and Healthy
Despite their small size, Bichon Frises are energetic dogs that require regular exercise to stay healthy and happy. Daily walks, play sessions, and interactive toys can help fulfil their exercise needs and prevent boredom. However, it's essential to avoid overexertion, especially in hot or humid weather, as Bichons can be sensitive to extreme temperatures.
Our favourite walking accessories for Bichon Frises are the Cocopup range, they come in so many cute patterns and colours and have a big range of sizes to pick from so you're sure to get the perfect fit for your Bichon Frise.
Raising a Bichon Frise Puppy: Nurturing Their Development
Raising a Bichon Frise puppy involves providing them with love, care, and proper socialisation from an early age. Expose your puppy to various people, animals, and environments to help them develop into well-adjusted and confident adults.
Establish routines, boundaries, and positive reinforcement techniques to foster good behaviour and strengthen your bond with your Bichon.
Optimal Nutrition: Best Dog Food for Bichon Frise
Choosing the right dog food is crucial for your Bichon Frise's overall health. Look for high-quality, well-balanced options that cater to their specific needs. For a well balanced option we recommend trying either Orijen or Acana, they have your dog’s nutritional needs at the forefront
Best Dog Food for Bichon Frise Puppy
Puppies have unique nutritional requirements. Select a premium puppy formula rich in essential nutrients to support their growth and development. We love the Purina ProPlan formulations for puppies!
Best Beds for Bichon Frises: Creating a Cosy Retreat
Bichon Frises love to curl up in a comfortable spot to rest and recharge. Invest in a soft, supportive bed that provides adequate cushioning and promotes proper alignment for your Bichon's joints. Why not try one of our High Wall Beds? The high cosy sides encourage them to curl up and the comfy cushion is supportive!
In conclusion, Bichon Frises are cherished companions known for their endearing personality, playful demeanour, and unwavering loyalty. By understanding their unique traits, addressing their health needs, providing proper training and care, and selecting the right products, you can ensure a fulfilling and rewarding relationship with your beloved Bichon Frise for years to come.
Remember, the bond you share with your Bichon Frise is a special one, filled with love, joy, and unforgettable moments. Embrace each day together and cherish the pawprints they leave on your heart.
Here's to many wagging tails and endless cuddles with your beloved Bichon Frise!
If you’re anything like us you’ll want your furry friend to look their best, we know that grooming is an essential part in achieving that. Frequent dog grooming helps to keep your dog looking nice, as well as improving their overall health and wellbeing. But you may be wondering how often you should groom your dog. In this week’s blog post, we’re covering everything you need to know about dog grooming.
What Is Dog Grooming
Before we look at how often you should be grooming your dog, let’s look at what dog grooming is. If you’re a first-time dog owner or new to dog grooming we know that keeping on top of your dog’s grooming can be overwhelming which is why we’re here to help.
Dog grooming refers to maintaining your dog’s physical coat and hygiene, which includes everything you do to maintain your dog’s coat, skin, nails and ears, from bathing & brushing to cutting and clipping. For a more detail guide on ‘what dog grooming is’, check out this article from our Information Hub - it looks at everything from what is involved in dog grooming, why it’s important and how long it takes. It’s a great place to start if you’re new to dog grooming or need a refresher.
How Often Should A Dog Be Groomed
Understanding your dog’s coat type is the first step in knowing how often to groom your dog and what the best products to use are. How often to groom a dog, in our experience, will depend on things like hair length, texture, and density of your dog’s coat.
The main types of dog coats are: Short or smooth-haired, Long Haired, Double Coated, Curly and Hairless. In this guide, we break down exactly how often each type of coat needs grooming, as well as give you our top tips for looking after their coat and our favourite products.
How Often Should A Long-Haired Dog Be Groomed?
Long-Haired Dogs include breeds such as Lhasa Apso, German Shepherd, Long-Haired Chihuahuas, Dachshunds & Shih Tzus.
Long Hair coats need regular grooming to prevent matting and tangles, daily brushing will help with this and will remove any debris. If you’ve got a long-haired puppy it’s a good idea to get them used to being brushed from the day you bring them home so they’re desensitised to it from a young age.
When it comes to bathing your long-haired dog, it’s important to keep them clean but also not strip their coat from any natural oils that are keeping it shiny and healthy. In our experience bathing your long-haired dog every 6-8 weeks helps keep their coat in tip-top shape. You can either do this at home or take them to a professional groomer for a bath.
When it comes to cutting your long-haired dog it will depend on your personal taste, lifestyle and season. How short you will want to keep your long-haired dog’s coat will depend on your taste and lifestyle, the typical long-haired cuts you’ll see at Crufts are usually what is considered ‘breed standard’. But if you’re not planning on showing your dog in the show ring any time soon, maybe a shorter more practical cut might suit them more. We’d recommend visiting your groomers for a trim every 2 - 3 months, however, they will advise exactly how often they recommend for your particular lang-haired breed.
For long-haired dogs, we recommend the PetPlex Dirt Defeater collection and a slicker brush. The PetPlex Dirt Defeater collection includes a shampoo, conditioner, and cologne so is perfect for removing any tangles and keeping your dog smelling fresh.
How Often Should A Short-Haired Dog Be Groomed?
Short-Haired dogs include Beagles, Boxers, Dalmatians, Great Danes, Pugs & Rhodesian Ridgebacks.
Short-Haired dog breeds typically need less grooming than their long-haired cousins. In our experience brushing their coats once a week is plenty to help keep them healthy and free of debris.
Short-haired dogs will only need occasional baths, every 4-6 weeks or after a particularly mucky walk.
Short-haired dogs likely won’t need regular haircuts with a professional groomer, although some breeds may still need their undercoat stripped away. Contrary to popular belief, short-haired dogs can shed a lot, particularly when the seasons change. Some groomers will offer a specific short-haired dog package which will include a bath and a deshed which will help remove some of that excess hair and keep your short-haired dog’s coat in top shape.
For short-haired dogs we recommend using a gentle shampoo like the PetPlex Dirt Defeater Collection and a good brush, we like the Rosewood 2-in-1 Bath & Groom Brush as you can put shampoo in the top to dispense at bath time making grooming your dog super easy.
How Often Should A Double Coated Dog Be Groomed?
Double dog breeds include wire-haired breeds such as Border Terriers, Brussels Griffons, Jack Russel Terriers, and Schnauzers, as well as breeds such as Golden Retrievers, Labrador, Pomeranians, and Border Collies.
A double coat on a dog is simply a coat that has two layers, they have an undercoat of dense short hairs and then a top coat of longer hairs or guard hairs. The double coat is great for keeping your dog’s temperature regulated and repelling moisture and dirt.
Double-coated breeds shed a lot, especially in Spring and Fall. Although regular grooming won’t stop this it will certainly help minimise it and keep their coats looking healthy. We recommend brushing double-coated dogs 2-3 times a week - this will help remove debris, any mats or tangles, as well as help to remove some of that excess dead hair that may be irritating them.
A common misconception is that shaving your double-coated dog will help keep them cooler in the summer, however, the opposite is actually true. A double-coated dog is insulated in the follicles rather than by the hair, so when you cut their hair all the insulation is still there, and when the hair grows back quite often 10-14 hairs will grow in the place of each follicle rather than the 5-7 that was there before, which can change the texture of their hair and cause bald patches.
We recommend bathing your double-coated dog roughly every 8-12 weeks. Bathing them more frequently in the summer is a good idea as they will be shedding more and it will help to get rid of some of that excess hair.
When it comes to how often you should be taking your double-coat, it can vary depending on if they’re a short, medium, or long-haired double-coated dog but typically we’d recommend at least four times a year to help de-shed all that dead hair. Your local professional groomer will be able to advise the best length of time for your specific breed of dog.
For your double-coated dog, we recommend a good brush to help them shed that bottom coat, both a slicker brush or an undercoat rake work well.
How Often Should You Groom Your Wavy Or Curly-Haired Dog
Wavy or Curly Haired dogs include a lot of the popular poodle cross breeds such as Labradoodles, Cockapoos, Cavapoo & Cavapoochons, as well as breeds such as Bichon Frise, Spanish Waterdogs, Bedlington Terriers, and Poodles.
Although curly coat breeds are typically low shedding they still require maintenance. The curly texture can be prone to matting and tangling so daily brushing will help keep on top of this, especially after a particularly muddy or wet walk.
When it comes to bathing your curly-haired dogs, you want to avoid doing it too often so that their natural essential oils don’t get stripped from their skin and fur. On average, we recommend at most once a month but ideally every 6 weeks or so, the Dexas Mudbuster is perfect for keeping your curly-haired dog’s paws clean between baths.
Curly-haired dogs are more likely to need a regular trim than other breeds, for this, we recommend taking them to a professional groomer every 6 weeks to keep on top of it.
If you want to bathe your dog at home the PetPlex Curl Perfector Shampoo and Detangling Spray work amazingly on both curly and wavy-haired dogs. The shampoo has been specially formulated for dogs with curly coats and has added wheat protein which will strengthen your dog's hair from the root and give instant voluminous results. A detangling spray can either be used on hair wash day or to help freshen up between full grooms, and it will just help to gently tease away knots and tangles. Other grooming kit essentials for a curly-haired dog include a slicker brush and some thinning scissors to help keep the hair round their eyes neat and tidy between trims.
How Often To Groom A Hairless Dog
Hairless Dog Breeds include Chinese Crested Dogs, Hairless Chihuahuas, American Hairless Terriers, and Xoloitzcuintli.
Needless to say, hairless dogs won’t need brushing or trimming like other coat types but they will still need regular baths and it’s a good idea to brush through any patches of hair they may have. With hairless dogs typically an oily film will form after a couple of weeks, this is a good indication that they’re ready to be bathed.
We recommend a really gentle shampoo to bathe your hairless dog with, like PetPlex Derma Doctor which is fragrance-free and full of mild ingredients so it perfect for hairless dogs
How often you should groom your dog will depend on their breed and coat type. Regular grooming at home is essential for all coat types to help their coats in top shape. If you would like a little bit more information on how to groom a dog why not check out our recent Information Hub article? It’s a simple guide explaining everything you need to know to groom your dog at home.
Us humans are creatures of habits, you may not realise you have a ‘bedtime routine’, but you most likely do, which helps wind you down from the day and settle you to a good night’s sleep. Whether this be brushing your teeth and climbing into your softest bedsheets, or reading a few pages of your book, it’s important to create the perfect bedtime routine, so it’s not surprising our puppy’s need a routine too to help them wind down from the day and recognise when ‘bedtime’ also means ‘sleep time’. Here, we have compiled a helpful guide to creating your puppy’s bedtime routine to ensure you both get the best night sleep.
Puppy Bedtime Routine
Your puppy may need encouragement to go to sleep, they should eventually settle when they’re tired enough, so you may need to play with them or take them for a walk earlier in the evening to tire them out. Try to start your ‘wind down time’ around 30 minutes before their scheduled bedtime. From this time, avoid playing with them or have them interacting with any stimulating toys that will keep them alert. You may need to separate them from events that would excite them (like bath time if you have children who love to squeal and splash) and giving them a simple chew toy may a better toy to leave them with.
Take your puppy out to the toilet just before you’re going to put them to bed. Ensure it is long enough for them to relieve themselves properly before settling down for the night.
Puppy Sleep Routine
Once they’ve been to the toilet and settled for the night, choose them a comfortable place to sleep; this may be their bed, in a playpen or a crate. Create the space for your puppy to feel cosy and so they associate relaxing in this space. Ensure the bed is in a low-traffic area of your home so they’ll be undisturbed. Avoid putting any toys in your puppy’s sleep area as you may find they opt for ‘play time’ over ‘sleep time’.
Turning the lights out may be a ‘sure sign’ of bedtime, and a habit your puppy will get used to, to feel settled and to recognise the significance of ‘bedtime’. Try to limit the amount of times you switch the lights on and off, so your pup knows once the lights are out – it is sleeping time.
If your puppy is struggling to settle why not try one of our crate covers. They're perfect for popping over your puppies crate so it's dark for them and you can roll the doors down to help signal that it's 'sleep time' to get them in a good routine.
Good Bedtime for Puppy
Your pup’s bedtime will often be determined by your own routines and plans and will vary depending on the level of exercise your puppy gets and the lifestyle they live with you. Your puppy will generally need about 12 hours of sleep a night, so this may change their bedtime with your morning routines too. Remember your pup needs to sleep throughout the day too!
Usually, your puppy should go to bed around 2 hours before you head to bed, it might be useful to take your puppy to the toilet just as you’re heading to bed, so they’ve had another toilet break opportunity, which may help them last longer throughout the night. As tempting as it may seem, try not to let your dog sleep on you on an evening and encourage them sleeping in their bed.
Balancing the activity of your pup and how much sleep they need takes time, but you’ll soon learn your puppy’s routine as they learn yours which will make for a seamless night’s sleep!
Bringing Home A Springer Spaniel: Your Essential Checklist
Getting your springer spaniel puppy checklist right before pickup day is one of the kindest things you can do for both of you. This guide covers everything from the essential kit and breed-specific quirks to feeding routines, early training, and how to make that first week feel settled rather than frantic. Whether your Springer comes from working or show lines, you will find practical, honest advice here to help you feel genuinely ready.
Springer spaniel puppy checklist: what to know before your puppy comes home
Bringing home a Springer Spaniel is one of the most exciting things you can do — and one of the most beautifully chaotic. These dogs are full of personality, deeply affectionate, and built to be busy. If you’ve spent any time around the breed, you’ll already know they don’t really do calm. Springers thrive on connection, movement, and having a job to do, even if that job is just locating every sock you own.
That’s why a Springer Spaniel puppy checklist isn’t just a shopping list. Yes, you’ll need the basics: a crate, a bed, food bowls, a collar. But getting ready for a Springer means thinking beyond the gear. Your home setup, your daily routine, the rhythms of your household — all of it shapes how well your puppy settles in. A breed this energetic and people-focused needs a home that’s genuinely ready for them, not just stocked up for them.
This guide covers all of it. From the spaniel puppy essentials you’ll want in place before day one, to the enrichment ideas and routines that make those first weeks feel manageable rather than overwhelming. We’ve included the practical stuff and the less obvious bits too, because with Springers, it really is the details that make the difference. If you’re still in the early planning stages, our guide on how to prepare for your new puppy pairs well with this one.
Consider this your honest, friendly rundown from people who genuinely love this breed and want your first few weeks together to go brilliantly.
The essential kit for a Springer Spaniel puppy
Getting your Springer Spaniel puppy checklist sorted before your new pup arrives makes those first few days so much calmer. When the right things are already in place, you can focus on bonding and settling in — rather than scrambling for a bowl at midnight or realising your lead is comically oversized for an eight-week-old.
Here’s everything you want ready for day one:
Crate or den space: Springers are sensitive souls who genuinely thrive with somewhere quiet and enclosed to call their own. A well-sized crate lined with familiar-smelling bedding helps your pup feel secure from the off, and makes toilet training far more straightforward too.
Bed: A soft, washable bed inside or alongside the crate gives your puppy somewhere properly comfortable to crash between those frantic bursts of energy.
Collar and harness: A well-fitted harness is much kinder on a young puppy’s neck than a collar alone, and gives you better control when your Springer is already pulling enthusiastically towards every leaf on the pavement.
Lead: Start short and lightweight. It helps your puppy learn to walk close without feeling overwhelmed, and gives you more confidence too.
Food and water bowls: Go for sturdy, easy-to-clean options that won’t flip over the moment your Springer decides to paw at them, which they will.
Puppy-safe toys: Springers have a strong natural retrieve drive, so a mix of chew toys, tuggers, and something fetch-friendly will keep their minds and mouths well occupied.
Grooming tools: A soft slicker brush and a wide-toothed comb are the basics for that silky Springer coat. Starting grooming sessions early means it becomes routine rather than a battle.
Training treats: Small and soft is the way to go. Reward-based training works brilliantly with this breed, and you’ll go through more treats than you expect in those first weeks.
Cleaning supplies: Enzyme-based cleaner is non-negotiable during toilet training. Buy more than you think you need.
Travel gear: A secure car crate or well-fitted travel harness keeps your puppy safe on the move and builds good habits from the very first journey home.
If you’d rather tick it all off in one place, the Lords and Labradors puppy essentials collection is a good place to start — everything there is chosen with young dogs in mind.
How much exercise and enrichment does a Springer Spaniel puppy really need?
Springer Spaniels come from a long line of working dogs bred to cover fields all day, so it’s easy to assume your puppy needs the same treatment. In reality, young Springers need far less physical exercise than most new owners expect. What they do need, almost from day one, is mental stimulation — and plenty of it.
Here’s how to think about activity in those early weeks:
Free play at home. Short bursts of self-directed play in the garden or living room are ideal. Let your puppy set the pace and rest whenever they want to.
Short structured walks. Brief, gentle outings to explore new sights and smells are great for early socialisation — just keep them short and pressure-free.
Training games. Five minutes of sit, recall, or name recognition will tire a Springer puppy out faster than a long walk ever could. Seriously.
What to avoid. Repetitive exercise on hard surfaces or overly long outings can strain developing joints. The big adventures can wait.
A handy rule of thumb: the five-minute rule
Most vets recommend five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day. A three-month-old Springer gets around 15 minutes per walk. Simple, easy to remember, and genuinely kind on growing bodies.
When it comes to enrichment you can start straight away, try scatter feeding kibble in the grass so your puppy has to sniff it out, hide a favourite toy under a blanket, or run through a quick training game before mealtimes. A snuffle mat or simple puzzle feeder is a great addition to your spaniel puppy care kit too, especially on rainy days when outdoor time isn’t happening. These activities tap into a Springer’s natural working instincts and settle them far more effectively than a longer walk would.
For a deeper look at how exercise needs change as your Springer grows up, the Springer Spaniel Ultimate Guide is well worth a read.
Working line vs show line Springer Spaniels: why it matters for your checklist
Not all Springer Spaniels are quite the same, and it really helps to know whether your puppy comes from working or show lines. This is not just breed trivia. It can shape your springer spaniel puppy checklist in practical ways, from the kind of enrichment you buy to how much structure you build into your week.
Factor
Working Line
Show Line
Energy Level
Typically very busy and always ready for the next job
Still active, but often a little easier to switch off at home
Exercise Outlook
Usually grows into a strong need for activity and purposeful outings
Often happy with regular walks, play and training as they mature
Mental Stimulation
Benefits from frequent training games, scent work and tasks
Enjoys training and games, but may be a little less full-on
Training Style
Loves consistency and having something to do
Keen to learn and often settles into family routines well
Home Setup
Suits active households that can offer space and daily engagement
Often adapts more easily to a slightly calmer home life
If your puppy is from working lines, it is worth preparing for a dog who may need more from their day as they grow up. In real life, that often means a good stash of puzzle toys, short training sessions woven into your routine, and plans for safe outdoor adventures later on. Young puppies still need to build exercise gradually with age, and your vet can help you judge what is appropriate.
Show line puppies still need plenty of attention, training and enrichment, because spaniel puppy care is never hands-off. But some new owners find they settle into nap times, family evenings and home routines a little more easily.
Whichever line your Springer comes from, the best puppy starter kit is one that matches the dog in front of you. If you want a helpful place to start, you can browse essentials suited to your Springer Spaniel.
Feeding, training, grooming and house rules for the first few weeks
The first few weeks with a Springer Spaniel puppy can feel like a beautiful, chaotic blur — but getting your routines right early makes everything easier. Think of your Springer Spaniel puppy checklist not just as a shopping list, but as a blueprint for daily life. Consistency matters far more than doing everything perfectly from day one.
Feeding. Start with whatever schedule and food your breeder used, even if you plan to switch things up later. Puppies have sensitive stomachs, so any transition to a new food should happen gradually over 7 to 10 days. Measure portions carefully rather than eyeballing it — Springers are enthusiastic eaters and will absolutely convince you they are one meal away from starvation.
Training. Start recall and lead manners from the very first days at home, using positive reinforcement and keeping sessions short — around five minutes is plenty. Frequent, playful moments of training beat long formal sessions hands down at this age. A Springer who learns their name and comes when called early is a genuinely easier, happier dog to live with long-term.
Grooming. Introduce brushing gently from day one, even if there is barely any coat to work with yet. The goal is simply making it feel normal and calm before their full coat comes in. Check their ears regularly too — Spaniel ears trap moisture and debris easily, so a quick look every few days becomes a good habit fast.
House rules. Before your puppy even arrives, agree as a household on whether they can go on the sofa, where they will sleep, and which rooms are off limits. Mixed signals between family members are the fastest route to a very confused puppy. Get everyone on the same page and stick to it — it really does make a difference.
Bedding these routines in during those first weeks sets the tone for everything that follows. For a closer look at navigating those early days, our complete guide to your puppy’s first week covers it all in one place.
Your first-week checklist for settling a Springer Spaniel puppy in confidently
Here’s everything pulled together so you can head into pickup day feeling genuinely ready, not just roughly prepared.
Before your puppy comes home:
Set up a crate or den with soft bedding somewhere quiet
Puppy-proof any rooms your Springer will have access to
Get your puppy food sorted based on your breeder’s recommendation
Stock up on enzymatic cleaner for accidents — you will get through more than you expect
Put together your starter kit: collar, ID tag, lead, food and water bowls, puppy pads
Register with a vet and book an introductory appointment
During the first week:
Stick to the same meal times from day one
Keep early training sessions short, positive, and pressure-free
Limit visitors so your puppy has space to settle without being overwhelmed
Introduce crate training gradually, with encouragement and no rushing
Build a toilet routine and reward every success outside straight away
Build in quiet downtime between play and interaction — rest is doing something
The honest truth is that the right gear makes life easier, but a steady routine is what actually settles a Springer Spaniel puppy. Without structure, even the best-equipped household can feel chaotic to a young dog still finding their feet. With a gentle rhythm in place, you will be surprised how quickly they find their confidence.
Our Puppy’s First Week collection brings everything you need into one place if you want a simple starting point. Beyond that, trust the process, be patient with yourself as much as your puppy, and enjoy it. These early weeks really do go faster than you think.
Bringing home a Border Collie for the first time is one of the most exciting decisions you can make — but it comes with a learning curve that’s worth getting ahead of. This border collie first time owner guide covers everything you actually need to know: whether the breed suits your life right now, how to set up your home before they arrive, how to train and exercise them without burning out, and the everyday care habits that make the biggest difference. Think of it as the honest, practical rundown a fellow dog-mad friend would give you over a cup of tea.
Border Collies at a Glance: What First-Time Owners Should Know
Border Collies are one of those breeds that genuinely stop people in their tracks. They’re sharp, beautiful, endlessly engaged with the world, and capable of learning things that will honestly surprise you. But they’re also a lot — and knowing that upfront makes all the difference.
Originally bred to herd sheep across miles of open hillside, Border Collies were built to work alongside a human all day, every day. That heritage hasn’t softened much over the generations. Your Border Collie isn’t going to be content pottering around the house waiting for a short walk and a cuddle on the sofa. They need purpose, mental challenges, and consistent engagement — and they’ll let you know, often quite loudly, when they’re not getting it.
Day to day, life with a Border Collie tends to look something like this: a structured morning routine, a proper exercise session (think long walks or a run, not a quick lap of the garden), training that keeps their brain occupied, and ideally some kind of activity that gives them a genuine focus. Without that structure, bored Border Collies have a habit of inventing their own entertainment — which usually involves chewing, herding the children, or taking a creative interest in your skirting boards.
The good news is that their intelligence works in your favour too. They pick up training quickly, they thrive on routine, and once you understand how they think, the relationship becomes genuinely rewarding.
As a breed, Border Collies tend to suit active households, people who love outdoor life, and owners who want to be genuinely involved with their dog rather than just sharing a living space. If you’re still weighing up whether this is the right fit for where you are right now, our guide to the best dog breeds for first-time owners is a great place to start.
Is a Border Collie a Good Fit for a First-Time Owner?
Border Collies can make truly extraordinary companions — but if you’ve done any reading on the breed, you’ve probably noticed the same honest disclaimer popping up everywhere: this is a lot of dog. Not impossible, not even impractical in the right hands, but they genuinely ask more of their owners than most breeds. Going in with clear eyes makes all the difference.
Border Collies thrive with owners who can offer:
1–2+ hours of daily exercise — not a gentle potter around the block, but purposeful movement like running, fetch, or proper off-lead time in open space
Daily mental stimulation — puzzle feeders, training games, scent work, anything that gives that busy brain a real job to do
Consistent, positive training from day one — because a Border Collie without structure will absolutely invent their own, and it rarely ends well for your sofa
Plenty of time at home — they bond deeply with their people and don’t do well with long stretches alone
Regular access to outdoor space — a garden is a bonus, but what really matters is getting out into open spaces often
A calm, predictable routine — they read household energy remarkably well, and chaos tends to tip them into anxiety or overstimulation
That list might feel daunting, but it’s not meant to put you off. Plenty of first-time owners build a genuinely brilliant life with a Border Collie. What usually separates the ones who thrive from the ones who struggle isn’t experience — it’s preparation. Knowing what you’re committing to before your puppy comes home, rather than scrambling to catch up a few weeks in, is most of the battle. That’s exactly what this guide is here to help with.
If you’re still deciding whether the timing is right at all, Am I Ready for a Puppy? is a good place to start before you read any further.
How to Set Up Your Home for Success Before Your Border Collie Arrives
Getting your home ready before your Border Collie arrives is one of the best investments you can make as a first-time owner. This breed is sharp, curious, and remarkably quick to find trouble when boredom or overstimulation kicks in. A calm, organised setup from day one genuinely makes those early weeks feel less like survival mode.
Here’s what to work through before they come home:
Puppy-proof the key areas. Tuck away cables, block off stairs if needed, and clear anything fragile or potentially harmful from nose height. Border Collies investigate everything — thoroughly.
Pick a quiet, dedicated rest spot. High-traffic areas rarely work. A calm corner of the living room or a tucked-away hallway alcove is ideal. Consistency is what helps dogs settle.
Choose a well-sized crate. A good crate gives your puppy somewhere to decompress, not just sleep. Lords & Labradors wooden crates are worth considering here — they feel like part of your home rather than a clinical add-on, which makes a real difference in how your puppy takes to them.
Get a supportive, washable bed. Border Collies are active dogs who need genuinely good rest. A durable, easy-clean bed holds up to daily use and the inevitable muddy paws.
Stock up on mentally stimulating toys. Puzzle feeders, snuffle mats, and treat-dispensing toys do serious work with this breed. They keep a busy brain occupied without requiring you to be constantly “on.”
Sort a well-fitted harness before your first walk. You’ll be walking this dog a lot. A secure, comfortable harness that doesn’t restrict movement is something to buy now, not scramble for on day one.
Set up a consistent feeding station. Same spot, same bowls, same time. It sounds minor, but routine is something Border Collies latch onto quickly — and that works in your favour.
For a full pre-arrival checklist, the Lords & Labradors new puppy prep guide pulls everything together in one place.
Nail the environment early and you’ll spend far less time firefighting in those first few weeks — and far more time actually enjoying your dog.
Training a Border Collie Without Losing Your Mind
Border Collies are one of the most trainable breeds around, but that intelligence cuts both ways. They pick up new skills fast, which is brilliant when you’re consistent — and a little chaotic when you’re not. The good news is that training a Border Collie is genuinely manageable, especially if you build a few solid habits early. Get those right and it becomes one of the most rewarding parts of life with the breed.
One thing that catches a lot of first-time Border Collie owners off guard is just how much mental stimulation these dogs need. Physical exercise matters, of course, but a dog that’s physically tired and mentally bored will absolutely find ways to entertain itself — and those ways tend to involve your furniture, your shoes, or an obsessive fixation with shadows on the wall. Keeping their mind engaged isn’t a bonus; it’s a basic need.
Here are the training priorities worth focusing on from day one:
Early socialisation. Introduce your puppy to different people, dogs, sounds, and environments in those first few months. The more positive experiences they have early, the more confident and settled they’ll be as they grow.
Recall training. A solid recall is non-negotiable with a breed this fast and this driven. Start in low-distraction spaces and build gradually — don’t wait until you’re in a busy park to find out how good it really is.
Loose-lead walking. Border Collies can pull with real determination. Short, calm sessions practised regularly will get you much further than one long, frustrating walk.
Short training sessions. Five to ten minutes at a time is plenty. They learn quickly and tend to switch off if sessions drag on, so keeping things brief and upbeat works in your favour.
Positive reinforcement. Treats, praise, and play all work brilliantly with this breed. Keep the energy light and reward generously when they get it right.
Impulse control. Teaching your dog to wait, pause, and check in with you before reacting is one of the best early investments you can make — and it pays off for years.
Puzzle feeders and enrichment toys. Swapping part of their daily meals into a puzzle feeder gives their brain something to work on and takes the edge off that restless Border Collie energy between walks.
Start simple, stay consistent, and don’t put pressure on yourself to be perfect. Small daily wins genuinely add up. If you’re looking for a practical starting point, our puppy training guide walks you through the foundations in a way that’s easy to follow from the very beginning.
Exercise, Enrichment, and Daily Routine for a Happier Border Collie
Border Collies need both physical exercise and mental stimulation every single day, and one without the other rarely cuts it. A dog who’s run five miles but had no brain-work is still very much a dog looking for something to do — and that something is often your sofa cushions. Getting this balance right early on is one of the most important things you can do as a first-time Border Collie owner.
A Sample Daily Routine for a Border Collie
Morning walk (30–45 minutes) — A brisk off-lead walk or run to burn physical energy and let your dog sniff freely before the day gets going.
Short training session (10–15 minutes) — Recalls, heel work, or a new trick while their mind is fresh. Keep it fun and focused.
Midday enrichment (15–20 minutes) — A puzzle feeder or scatter feed in the garden keeps their brain ticking over during quieter hours.
Afternoon sniff walk (20–30 minutes) — A slower, nose-led walk where they set the pace. It sounds relaxed, but it’s genuinely tiring in the best way.
Evening activity (20–30 minutes) — Hide-and-seek, fetch with rules, or a short agility session in the garden all work well here.
Wind-down time — A chew or snuffle mat to help them settle and switch off before bed.
Enrichment ideas worth rotating in:
Puzzle feeders and slow bowls at mealtimes
Scatter feeding in long grass
Hide-and-seek with toys or treats around the house
Sniff walks where they lead and you follow
A new trick or task to work on each week
If your Border Collie still seems restless or destructive after a full day, mental under-stimulation is usually the culprit. It’s worth knowing the signs your dog might be bored and how to fix it before any habits take hold.
Consistency matters more than intensity here. A structured, varied routine built around your actual life is what helps Border Collies genuinely settle — and it doesn’t need to be complicated to work.
Feeding, Grooming, and the Little Habits That Make Life Easier
Getting the everyday care routine right makes a surprising difference to how settled your Border Collie feels — and honestly, how relaxed you feel too.
Start with feeding. Border Collies do well on a high-quality diet suited to their age and activity level. Puppies generally need three smaller meals a day, while adults settle comfortably into two. Feeding at consistent times each day helps regulate energy and digestion, and when your dog is young, it makes house training noticeably easier as well.
Coat care tends to be simpler than new owners expect. Both rough and smooth coat varieties need regular brushing to manage shedding and prevent tangles, but a couple of sessions a week covers most of the year. During heavier shedding seasons, daily brushing becomes part of the routine pretty quickly. Pay extra attention behind the ears and around the collar — knots love to hide there. If you want to put together a solid grooming kit from the start, the Lords and Labradors grooming and healthcare collection is a good place to browse.
Beyond the coat, keep nails trimmed every few weeks, check ears for any redness or build-up, and get into the habit of brushing teeth regularly. These things are much easier to keep on top of when you start early, while your dog still accepts them as a normal part of life rather than something to wriggle away from.
It’s also worth knowing that Border Collies can be predisposed to certain health conditions, including epilepsy. Cornell University’s Riney Canine Health Center advises that the first time your dog has a seizure, you should stay calm, time the seizure, and schedule a veterinary exam as soon as possible after recovery. Having that knowledge beforehand means you can respond clearly instead of panic.
Build your routine steadily, lean on your vet when questions come up, and trust that the small daily habits genuinely add up.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a Border Collie a good choice for a first-time owner?
Yes, a Border Collie can be a good choice for a first-time owner if you’re well prepared and genuinely active. They need 1–2+ hours of daily exercise, mental stimulation, positive training, time with their people, and a calm routine. Preparation matters more than previous dog-owning experience.
How difficult is it to own a Border Collie?
Owning a Border Collie can be challenging because they need far more than basic walks and cuddles. They thrive on structure, daily exercise, brain-work, and consistent training. If those needs aren’t met, they often become restless, noisy, destructive, or start herding children and chewing around the house.
The Complete Cocker Spaniel Puppy Guide: What New Owners Need To Know
Bringing home a Cocker Spaniel puppy is one of those experiences that somehow manages to be even more full-on and even more wonderful than you imagined. This cocker spaniel puppy guide covers everything you actually need to know, from building a calm first routine and getting to grips with that gorgeous high-maintenance coat, to feeding, training, and the kit worth having before collection day. Think of it as the practical, honest companion for those early weeks with your new dog.
What to know before bringing home a Cocker Spaniel puppy
Cocker Spaniels have a way of making you feel like the most important person in the room — and that quality alone tells you a lot about what life with one of these dogs is actually like.
It’s no surprise they’re one of the UK’s most beloved breeds. Cockers are affectionate, playful, and genuinely invested in whatever you’re doing, whether that’s a long walk through the woods or a quiet evening on the sofa. They bond deeply with their families and thrive on closeness, which makes them wonderful companions — but it also means they do best in homes that can offer real time and attention.
What catches a lot of new owners off guard is just how sensitive Cockers can be. They pick up on moods, they can find loud or chaotic environments unsettling, and they respond best to calm, consistent handling. Harsh correction rarely lands well with them. Patience and positive training, though? That gets you very far. If you enjoy the process of building a relationship through teaching, a Cocker will reward you for it every single day.
Energy levels are worth thinking about honestly, too. Cocker Spaniel puppies are lively and curious, and they need both physical activity and mental stimulation to settle well at home. A bored Cocker will absolutely find their own entertainment — and it usually involves something you’d rather they left alone.
What this all points to is a dog that suits hands-on, engaged owners who enjoy routine, companionship, and the rewards of good training. Get that balance right from the start, and a Cocker puppy will slot into your life in the most brilliant way.
For a deeper look at the breed’s history and personality, our Cocker Spaniel ultimate guide is a great place to start. Otherwise, read on — this Cocker Spaniel puppy guide covers everything from exercise and training to grooming, feeding, and the kit worth having from day one.
How to manage Cocker Spaniel puppy exercise, training, and socialisation
Getting the balance right between activity and rest is one of the most important things you can do for a young Cocker Spaniel. The good news? At this age, short and consistent beats long and exhausting every single time.
A useful rule of thumb for puppy exercise: 5 minutes per month of age, twice daily. So a 12-week-old pup needs just 15 minutes, twice a day. It sounds almost too little, but their joints and growth plates are still developing. Overdoing it early can cause real problems down the line, and no one wants that.
Training works on the same principle. Five to ten minutes at a time is far more effective than a marathon session that leaves your puppy too frazzled to focus. Cocker Spaniels are bright, willing little dogs, and reward-based training genuinely suits them well. Start simple: recall with a high-value treat or a favourite toy, calm lead walking, and toilet training built around a consistent outdoor routine. The key is to reward the right behaviour the moment it happens, every time, without exception.
A few things that tend to make a real difference in these early weeks:
Manage the bitey phase calmly. Redirect straight onto a chew toy and stay consistent. Reacting dramatically usually makes it worse, not better.
Build in rest between activity. Puppies need far more downtime than you might expect. A calm crate nap after a play session prevents the overtiredness that turns even sweet puppies into little goblins.
Keep socialisation low-pressure. New sounds, surfaces, and gentle experiences are brilliant at this age. Busy, overwhelming environments are not.
Introduce the lead at home first. Let them get used to wearing a collar and lead indoors before you venture outside.
Reward the behaviours you want more of. Sitting quietly, settling on their bed, coming when called — all worth marking with genuine praise.
A well-socialised Cocker grows into a confident, adaptable dog, and those early weeks of gentle exposure lay the groundwork for that. Our guide to socialising a puppy goes into much more detail if you want a step-by-step approach to getting it right.
Cocker Spaniel grooming: the coat care routine new owners need
Cocker Spaniel grooming tends to catch new owners off guard, and honestly, that’s completely understandable. Those gorgeous silky ears, feathered legs, and flowing coat look beautiful in photos, but in real life they collect mud, twigs, and tangles at a remarkable rate. Getting a consistent grooming routine in place early is one of the most practical things you can do for your puppy — and your sanity.
Weekly Grooming Routine
Brush the full coat using a slicker brush, working section by section from the back legs forward. Be gentle around the ears and belly, where the fur is finer and more prone to matting.
Check ears and feathering for mats and debris. Cocker ears are especially good at hiding grass seeds and knots, so run a wide-tooth comb through carefully and peek inside the ear flap after every walk.
Use a detangling spray on any stubborn areas before working through them with a comb. Yanking at knots makes the whole experience unpleasant — for both of you.
Bathe your puppy every four to six weeks, or sooner after a particularly muddy adventure. Use a puppy-safe shampoo and rinse thoroughly to avoid any skin irritation.
Do a quick post-walk check every time you come home. Muddy legs, damp ears, and anything caught in the feathering all deserve a once-over before your puppy gets comfortable on the sofa.
Essential Grooming Tools
Tool
Purpose
Slicker brush
Removes loose fur and surface tangles
Wide-tooth comb
Works through knots and checks for mats
Ear cleaner
Keeps ears clean and reduces infection risk
Detangling spray
Loosens stubborn tangles before brushing
Puppy-safe shampoo
Gentle cleansing without irritating the skin
Top tip: Start grooming sessions early and keep them short and calm. A few minutes with treats and quiet handling goes a long way. Puppies who learn that grooming is safe tend to become dogs who genuinely don’t mind it — which makes life considerably easier as the coat grows.
Once grooming becomes part of your weekly rhythm, it stops feeling like a chore and starts feeling like decent one-on-one time with your dog. Most Cocker owners find their puppies settle into it quite happily once the routine clicks. If you’re building your kit from scratch, the Lords and Labradors puppy grooming collection has everything you need, with tools chosen to suit younger, more sensitive coats.
Feeding, health checks, and the little things that keep a Cocker puppy thriving
Getting the small, everyday things right is what good Cocker Spaniel puppy care is really built on. Not the big, dramatic moments — the quiet routines that tick along in the background and make more difference than you’d expect. Here are the core areas to stay on top of:
Feeding portions: Follow your breeder or vet’s guidance on quantities, and revisit them as your puppy grows. Cockers will happily eat past full, so it’s worth being consistent rather than generous.
Treats: Keep them small and factor them into the day’s food allowance. Cocker Spaniel puppy training works best when treats feel like a genuine reward, not just a habit — so save them for moments that earn them.
Ear checks: Those gorgeous floppy ears trap warmth and moisture, which makes them a prime spot for infection. Lift and check them a few times a week, and clean gently with a vet-approved solution when needed. It’s one of the most overlooked parts of Cocker Spaniel puppy grooming, and one of the most important.
Teething: Puppies chew because they need to, not because they’re being difficult. A good chew toy redirects that instinct away from your furniture and supports healthy teeth and gums at the same time.
Reading your puppy’s signals: Sniffing around, sudden restlessness, or a dip in energy are your puppy’s way of saying they need a toilet break, a nap, or both. The sooner you learn to spot these cues, the easier your days become.
When to call the vet: Lethargy, vomiting, loose stools lasting more than 24 hours, or a reluctance to eat are all worth a prompt call to your vet. Early is always better.
These habits seem small in isolation, but together they lay the groundwork for a healthy, settled dog. If you’re still pulling your kit together, the Lords and Labradors puppy essentials collection is a good place to find food bowls, chews, and grooming tools that will actually get used.
The essential Cocker Spaniel puppy kit: what you actually need
Before your puppy arrives, it’s easy to fill your basket with things that look adorable. In reality, a good cocker spaniel puppy guide always comes back to the same idea: buy the basics first, then add extras once you know your puppy’s habits and preferences. This simple cocker spaniel puppy checklist will cover what you’ll actually use from day one.
Sleeping and containment
A cosy, washable bed or crate mat, ideally with supportive sides for a puppy who loves to curl up
A crate or puppy pen to create a calm little den and help with toilet training
A blanket that smells like their mum or littermates, which can be a real comfort during those first unsettled nights
Feeding and hydration
Sturdy food and water bowls that won’t tip over easily
A supply of the same food your breeder has been feeding, as sudden changes can upset a puppy’s tummy
Walking and training
A soft harness and lightweight lead for early practice and short outings once your puppy is ready
Grooming
A soft slicker brush and wide-tooth comb, because cocker spaniel puppy grooming is much easier when you start gently and consistently
Ear cleaning solution and cotton pads for regular checks around those lovely floppy ears
Play and enrichment
A few safe chew toys for teething, especially if you’d rather save your table legs and slippers
A snuffle mat or simple puzzle toy to keep a bright little Cocker busy in a healthy way
Comfort items
A puppy-safe comforter toy for naps and bedtime
If you have these essentials ready before collection day, settling in feels much calmer for both of you. And if you want an easy starting point, the Lords and Labradors puppy starter packs are a helpful way to pull together the pieces you’re most likely to need.
How to settle in and build a happy routine from day one
The first few weeks with a Cocker Spaniel puppy can feel like a blur of accidents, ear-flapping zoomies, and wondering if you’ll ever sleep past 6am again. The good news is that routine is your best friend right now, and it really doesn’t need to be complicated.
Start simple. Wake up at the same time each morning, take your puppy straight outside, then move into breakfast, a short play session, and a nap. Cocker Spaniels are sociable and clever, but they genuinely thrive on predictability. Knowing what’s coming next helps them feel secure, which means less whining, less chewing, and a noticeably calmer dog overall.
Keep mealtimes consistent and calm. If you have other pets at home, Ohio State University’s guidance on introducing a new dog recommends feeding your new puppy in a separate room at first, so your existing dog doesn’t have to worry about mealtimes. It’s a small thing that makes a real difference to how settled everyone feels. Once they’ve found their rhythm together, sharing spaces becomes much easier.
Expect setbacks. There will be days when your puppy seems to have forgotten everything, or when toilet training feels like it’s going backwards. That’s completely normal, and consistency on your end is what carries you through it.
Getting the right habits in place early — a simple grooming routine, a reliable nap schedule, a crate your puppy sees as their own calm corner — makes cocker spaniel puppy care feel far less overwhelming after those first couple of weeks. For a detailed look at exactly what to expect, our guide to bringing home a puppy walks you through the first week in full.
The chaos does settle. And the joy? That only grows.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are cocker spaniels difficult puppies?
Cocker Spaniel puppies can feel full-on, but they are not impossible when you understand what they need. They are lively, sensitive, and clever, so they do best with calm handling, short training sessions, gentle socialisation, plenty of rest, and enough mental stimulation to stop boredom turning into mischief.
What should I do in the first week with a new Cocker Spaniel puppy?
Keep the first week simple and predictable. Focus on a steady routine of toilet breaks, meals, short play sessions, naps, and calm bonding time. Set up a cosy sleeping space, introduce the crate gently, start brief grooming and lead practice at home, and avoid overwhelming your puppy with too much too soon.
Summer can feel relentless when you’re trying to keep a cat comfortable and you don’t have air conditioning to fall back on. This guide covers everything from cooling your home and encouraging your cat to drink more, to the comfort items worth trying and the signs that tell you your cat needs a little extra help. Learning how to keep cats cool in summer without AC turns out to be more straightforward than most people expect, and a few small changes can make a genuine difference to how your cat feels through the warmest months.
Why summer heat hits cats harder than you might think
Cats are remarkably good at finding a cool corner to curl up in, but when temperatures climb and your home starts to hold onto that heat, even the most laid-back cat can begin to struggle.
Unlike dogs, cats rarely pant to cool themselves down, and they can’t sweat the way we do. Their main tools are grooming and seeking out cooler surfaces — which works well enough on a mild day, but can fall short fast during a proper heatwave, especially in a flat or a south-facing home without air conditioning.
It’s also worth knowing that some cats feel the heat more than others. Flat-faced breeds like Persians and British Shorthairs have a harder time breathing in warm air at the best of times, so hot days can be genuinely uncomfortable for them. Older cats, overweight cats, and young kittens are more vulnerable too. If your cat falls into any of those categories, paying closer attention through the summer months isn’t being overprotective — it’s just sensible cat parenting.
The reassuring part? Keeping cats cool in summer without AC is far more manageable than it might seem. You don’t need specialist equipment or a complicated routine. A few thoughtful tweaks, a shaded spot they’ll actually use, and a bit of awareness around the hottest parts of the day can make a surprising difference to how your cat feels and behaves.
If you’d like a broader look at warm-weather care, our essential summer tips for pet owners pairs well with this guide.
Easy ways to keep your home cooler for your cat
You don’t need a specialist setup or expensive equipment to make a real difference to how your cat feels on a hot day. Small, consistent changes to your home environment can reduce heat build-up significantly — and help your cat stay comfortable through even the warmest spells.
Open windows safely with a screen or security latch. Fresh airflow matters, but cats will treat any gap as an open invitation. A fitted window screen or a latch that limits how far a window opens lets the breeze in while keeping your cat safely inside.
Position fans to create cross-ventilation. Place a fan at one end of a room and open a window at the other. Moving air feels cooler than still air even at the same temperature, and cats will usually find a comfortable spot in the flow on their own.
Close blinds on south-facing windows during the afternoon. Sunlight through glass heats a room faster than you’d expect. Drawing the blinds between midday and 4pm can keep things noticeably cooler with almost no effort.
Find the coolest room and make it accessible. Rooms with tiled floors, north-facing windows, or less direct sun stay cooler for longer. Leave the door open so your cat can move there whenever they need to.
Lay a cool, damp towel on a tile floor. It sounds almost too simple, but many cats will happily stretch out on a slightly damp surface without any coaxing at all.
Skip the oven during peak heat hours. Cooking generates a surprising amount of warmth. Cold meals or stovetop options keep your kitchen much more comfortable for everyone.
Once these steps become part of your morning routine, they stop feeling like effort. Keeping cats cool in summer without AC is really about working with your home rather than against it. If your cat lives indoors full-time, environment management matters even more — our indoor cat care guide has plenty more ideas to help them thrive at home throughout the year.
How to help your cat stay hydrated when it’s hot
Water plays a bigger role in keeping cats comfortable through summer than most people realise. Cats are naturally low-thirst drinkers, which means mild dehydration can creep in before any obvious signs appear. If you want to know what to look out for, our guide to cat dehydration symptoms is a handy read before the warmer months arrive.
The good news is that encouraging more drinking doesn’t have to be complicated. A few small changes around the house can make a real difference:
Spread water bowls around the home. One in the kitchen, one near a favourite napping spot, one by a sunny windowsill. The easier it is to find water, the more likely your cat is to actually drink it.
Keep water and food bowls separate. Cats instinctively prefer their water source away from where they eat. Moving them apart is a simple change that often prompts more drinking.
Top up bowls with fresh, cool water regularly. Cats notice stale water and will often walk straight past it. A quick refresh a couple of times a day goes a long way.
Try a cat water fountain. For fussy drinkers, moving water is often far more appealing. It stays cooler, stays oxygenated, and many cats who ignore a static bowl will drink happily from a fountain.
Switch to wet food during hot spells. It can contain up to 80% water, making it one of the easiest hydration boosts going — even if you usually feed dry.
Drop a few ice cubes into the bowl on very hot days. Some cats are curious enough to investigate, and it keeps the water cooler for longer.
Every cat has their own quirks around water, and that’s completely normal. If your cat is ignoring their bowl, it’s usually worth experimenting with placement, temperature, or switching to a fountain before assuming they’re just not thirsty.
Cooling mats, shaded spots, and other comfort helpers cats actually use
The most effective heat relief for cats is usually the kind they find for themselves. You can’t place a cat somewhere and expect them to stay, so the best approach is simply to set up options and let them decide.
Here are a few comfort helpers worth trying:
Cooling mats — designed to absorb body heat without needing to be chilled, they give cats a cool surface to sprawl on whenever they need it
Elevated beds — raising your cat off the floor improves airflow underneath them, which helps dissipate heat more efficiently than lying flat
Ceramic tiles — cats often seek these out naturally because the surface stays cool even when the rest of the room doesn’t
A lightly dampened towel — laid flat on a cool floor, it gives a similar effect and costs nothing to set up
Shaded hiding spots — a cardboard box tucked in a cool corner, or the space under a bed, gives cats somewhere dark and sheltered to retreat to
A fan angled toward a wall — this keeps air circulating without blasting directly at your cat, which most of them hate
Placement matters more than you might expect. Put a cooling mat somewhere your cat already gravitates toward rather than somewhere convenient for you. A favourite corner of the sofa or a shady patch of floor they already use in the afternoons is a much better bet than somewhere new. If your cat is on the cautious side, try placing a worn item of clothing nearby or dropping a few treats on the mat so they can investigate at their own pace.
Not sure whether a cooling mat is right for your cat? The Lords and Labradors guide to cooling mats for cats is a good place to start before you buy, covering how they work and what to look for.
The best setup is always the one your cat discovers and quietly claims as their own. That is really the whole point.
What to watch for: signs your cat may be too hot
Cats do love a sunny windowsill, so a warm, sleepy cat is not always a cause for concern. The key with keeping cats cool in summer is knowing when “just relaxing” starts to look more like heat stress.
A cat who feels too hot may show a few clear signs:
Panting: cats do not usually pant like dogs, so this is one of the biggest red flags
Excessive drooling: more saliva than normal can mean their body is struggling to cool down
Lethargy or unusual stillness: if your cat will not get up, seems flat, or ignores things they would normally react to, pay attention
Rapid or laboured breathing: check for breathing that looks faster, heavier, or more effortful than usual
Wobbliness or loss of balance: seeming weak, shaky, or unsteady is never something to brush off
Seeking unusual cool spots: lying on bathroom tiles, stretching out by the back door, or hiding behind the toilet can be your cat’s way of saying the house feels too warm
It can help to think about what is normal for your own cat. A lazy nap after lunch is one thing. Panting, drooling, or looking disoriented is something else entirely.
When to call your vet
If your cat is vomiting, seems confused, loses coordination, or becomes unresponsive, contact your vet straight away. These can be signs of heatstroke in cats, and it is always better to act early. While you arrange help, move them somewhere cool and quiet, offer water, and avoid forcing them to drink.
If you are working out how to keep cats cool in summer without AC, trust that small changes really do help. Most cats stay comfortable with a bit of extra care, a cooler place to rest, and close observation on hot days. If you need extra support, the Lords & Labradors cat wellbeing collection has practical options that can make summer cat care easier.
A simple summer routine that keeps your cat comfortable day to day
Keeping cats cool in summer without AC doesn’t need to be complicated. A loose daily rhythm is all it really takes, and once it becomes habit, you’ll barely think about it.
Start each morning by opening windows on opposite sides of the house to draw cooler air through before the temperature climbs. If your cat has a favourite windowsill, make sure there’s a shaded spot nearby for when the sun shifts. Cats are naturally good at finding cool corners, but they appreciate a little help getting there.
Through the afternoon, check that their water bowl is full and fresh. If they’ve been ignoring it, try moving it somewhere quieter, or add a second bowl in another room. Some cats simply drink more when their water isn’t sitting right next to their food. A cooling mat placed in their usual nap spot can also make a real difference during the warmest hours, with very little effort on anyone’s part.
In the evening, take a minute before bed to refresh the water, crack a window if it’s cooled down outside, and notice how your cat seems. Are they settled, or still restless? A calm end to the day is usually a good sign the routine is working.
None of this needs to be perfect. Some mornings you’ll forget the windows, or your cat will completely ignore the cooling mat. That’s fine. The consistency is what counts, not getting every detail right every single time. For more ways to support your pets through the warmer months, our summer survival guide for pets is well worth a read.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are cats ok in a house without AC?
Yes, many cats can be comfortable in a house without AC if you help keep the space cool and give them choices. Improve airflow, close blinds during the hottest part of the day, offer fresh water in several spots, and make sure they can reach the coolest room or a shaded resting place.
How do I keep my cat cool in 100 degree weather?
Keep your cat indoors, focus on the coolest room, and make cooling options easy to find. Use safe airflow with open windows and fans, shut blinds on sunny windows, refresh cool water often, add extra bowls or wet food, and watch closely for panting, drooling, or unusual lethargy.
Will my cat be ok in 90 degree weather?
Maybe, but it depends on your cat and how hot your home gets. Older cats, kittens, overweight cats, and flat-faced breeds can struggle more, so keep rooms shaded, water fresh, and cool resting spots available. If you notice panting, drooling, or weakness, contact your vet straight away.
If you have ever watched a cat bypass a brand new bed to squeeze into a battered delivery box, you already know that cardboard holds a very particular power over them. This article gets into the real reasons why cats like to go in boxes, from the deep-rooted instincts behind it to the surprising science that explains why boxes can actually make cats feel calmer and more secure. You will also find practical tips for making box time safer at home, plus some cosy alternatives worth knowing about.
Why do cats like to go in boxes? The short answer
If you have ever set down an empty delivery box and watched your cat claim it within seconds, you already know that cats and cardboard share a very special relationship. But why do cats like to go in boxes so reliably — regardless of age, personality, or how many perfectly good beds they have completely ignored?
The honest answer comes down to instinct. Cats are both predators and prey, which means they are hardwired to seek out small, enclosed spaces where they feel hidden, secure, and in control. A box delivers all of that at once. It is basically the feline version of a perfect afternoon.
But there is more to it than simple survival instinct. Cardboard retains warmth, which cats are naturally drawn to. Boxes offer novelty, which keeps curious, intelligent animals happily occupied. And research has actually shown that access to a box can meaningfully lower stress levels in cats, especially when they are adjusting to a new or unsettling environment.
So if your cat has commandeered every online delivery since you started shopping from home, they are not just being theatrical. They are following a deeply rooted urge that feels safe, satisfying, and entirely natural to them.
This article unpacks all of it — from the science behind why cats are attracted to boxes to practical ways you can lean into the behaviour at home. And if you want to go a step further, you can explore our full range of cat essentials for even more ways to keep your cat comfortable and content.
How boxes make cats feel safe, hidden, and in control
One of the clearest answers to why cats like to go in boxes lies in how perfectly a box suits their dual nature as both predator and prey. Inside a box, a cat can watch everything happening in the room while staying completely hidden. That combination of visibility and cover is deeply wired into how cats experience the world.
Reduced sensory overwhelm: Enclosed spaces filter out visual noise and movement, helping cats feel calmer in busier households.
Monitoring without exposure: A cat in a box can track people, other pets, and sounds without putting itself in a vulnerable position.
Ambush readiness: Even the most pampered indoor cat still carries those hunting instincts. A box keeps them poised and ready, even if the “prey” turns out to be a passing sock.
A sense of boundary and control: Cats feel safest when they can define their own space. A box creates a clear perimeter that feels entirely theirs.
Instinct, not stubbornness: That moment when your cat bypasses a plush bed to squeeze into the tiniest cardboard box in the room? That’s not cheek. That’s instinct telling them that smaller means safer.
Enclosed spaces give cats something open rooms simply cannot: a genuine sense of control over their environment. If your cat gravitates toward boxes and tight corners, they’re not being awkward — they’re following instincts that go back thousands of years. Our High Wall Bouclé Cat Bed is built with exactly that in mind, with raised, defined sides that recreate the sheltered, secure feeling cats love about boxes — just a little more comfortable for everyone involved.
What the Leiden University stress study found about boxes and feline stress
There is some genuine science behind why cats like to go in boxes. A well-known study from Leiden University looked at newly arrived shelter cats and found that simple hiding boxes seemed to help them cope better with the stress of a big change.
That matters because shelters are full of unfamiliar smells, sounds, and routines. For a cat, that can feel overwhelming. In the study, cats with access to a box generally showed lower stress scores and appeared to settle more quickly than cats without one. In other words, the box was not just somewhere to sit. It gave the cat a safe, contained space to retreat to while taking in a new environment.
A few easy takeaways from the research:
Cats with a hiding box appeared to adapt more quickly in a stressful setting
A small, enclosed space may help cats feel safer and more in control
Hiding can be a normal coping behaviour, not something “bad” that needs stopping
The idea is useful beyond shelters too, especially for new kittens, house moves, or changes in routine
The big lesson is simple: when cats can choose to tuck themselves away, they often feel more secure. That helps explain why cats like boxes so much in the first place.
At home, that does not have to mean leaving delivery boxes all over the hallway, although many cats would be thrilled with that. A cardboard box, covered bed, or snug hideaway can all offer a similar sense of comfort. If your cat likes cosy places to curl up out of sight, our cat beds collection is a helpful place to start.
Why cardboard boxes are so irresistible: texture, warmth, and novelty
Part of understanding why cats like to go in boxes comes down to the material itself. Cardboard ticks several boxes at once (pun very much intended), offering a mix of sensory rewards that are genuinely hard to resist. It’s rarely just one thing pulling them in.
Natural insulation: Cardboard traps body heat surprisingly well, creating a snug little pocket of warmth that feels immediately comforting to a cat settling in for a nap.
Scratch-friendly texture: The surface is satisfying to knead and scratch, giving cats a natural outlet for an instinct they act on every single day.
Novelty and mental stimulation: A new box arriving in the house is basically an event. Exploring it engages their curiosity and gives their brain a small but meaningful workout.
Muffled acoustics: The walls absorb surrounding sound, softening the environment and helping cats feel calmer and less overstimulated.
Familiar, neutral scent: Cardboard carries no strong or threatening smells, which makes it feel safe and approachable from the very first sniff.
Put all of that together and it’s easy to see why cat behaviour in boxes makes so much sense. Warm, tactile, quiet, and interesting all at once — it’s a pretty compelling combination. If you want to make a box even more inviting, try tucking in one of our soft cat blankets to layer up the warmth and comfort your cat is already searching for.
How to use boxes safely and keep the fun going at home
Giving your cat a cardboard box to explore is one of the easiest wins in pet parenting, but a little prep goes a long way. Before you set one down, check it over properly. Remove any staples, packing tape, or sharp folded edges that could catch a paw or scratch a nose, and give it a quick sniff while you’re at it. Boxes that have held cleaning products or heavily scented goods are best left in the recycling.
Once it passes the check, placement matters more than you might expect. Tuck it somewhere quiet, away from busy hallways or noisy appliances. Cats are drawn to boxes because they feel hidden and in control, so dropping one in the middle of a well-trafficked room rather misses the point.
It’s also worth keeping an eye on chewing. Most cats will sniff, knead, and generally make themselves at home without much drama, but if yours is tearing off chunks and swallowing them, it’s time to swap things out for something safer.
When you want a longer-lasting version of the same comfort, cat tunnels, enclosed hideaway beds, and soft-sided dens deliver everything a cardboard box does: warmth, shelter, and that deeply satisfying tucked-in feeling. They’re washable, sturdier, and far tidier to have around the house. The instinct behind why cats like to go in boxes stays exactly the same. You’re just giving it a proper home.
Pros and Cons of Sending Your Dog Away for Training
Weighing up the pros and cons of sending your dog away for training is one of those decisions that feels bigger the longer you sit with it, especially if you’re already exhausted by problem behaviours and running low on ideas. This article walks you through what board and train actually involves, the real benefits and the genuine limitations, and how to tell whether it suits your dog and your life. You’ll also find practical guidance on choosing a reputable trainer and what to try if a residential programme isn’t the right fit.
What sending your dog away for training actually means
Board and train, residential training, dog training camp — there are plenty of names for it, but the idea is essentially the same. Your dog goes to live with a professional trainer for a set period, usually somewhere between one and four weeks, and they work through specific behaviours together during that time.
If you’re in the thick of it with a dog who pulls on every walk, bounces off every visitor, or simply cannot seem to settle, the whole concept can sound almost too good to be true. And for some dogs and some families, it genuinely does make a real difference.
During a typical stay, your dog will live in the trainer’s home or a dedicated facility and receive structured sessions throughout the day. The focus might be basic obedience, loose lead walking, recall, or working through reactivity and anxiety. The better programmes also build in time for everyday life skills — including learning to settle calmly in a crate. If that’s something you want your dog to get comfortable with, our introduction to dog crates is a helpful place to start.
Sending your dog away for training tends to suit a few types of dogs in particular: puppies getting their foundations right, adolescents going through a chaotic phase, or adult dogs with deeply ingrained habits their owners haven’t been able to shift at home.
What it isn’t, though, is a hands-off permanent fix. The trainer does the groundwork, but you’re still very much part of the equation once your dog comes home. Knowing what to expect from the outset makes the whole experience far more useful — and far less likely to end in frustration. That’s exactly what the rest of this article is here to help with.
The upsides: when a training stay can really help
There are real, meaningful advantages in the pros and cons of sending your dog away for training discussion. For the right dog, and with the right trainer, a board and train stay can give you a stronger starting point than trying to fit training around school runs, late meetings, and a dog who is already overexcited by teatime.
Here are some of the biggest upsides:
Intensive daily repetition: Dogs learn through practice. In a residential programme, your dog may get several short, focused sessions each day, which often helps new habits settle in faster than a weekly class or the odd five minutes at home.
Faster progress on specific behaviours: If lead pulling, poor recall, barking at visitors, or jumping up has become an everyday frustration, that extra consistency can help shift things. It is not magic, but it can move you out of the stuck stage.
Professional handling for dogs that need more structure: Some dogs are wonderfully clever but a bit all over the place. Others become reactive, overstimulated, or hard to settle. A skilled trainer can spot patterns early, manage triggers carefully, and keep sessions clear and calm.
A simpler learning environment: Home is full of distractions. The post arrives, the children race through the hallway, the neighbour’s cat appears, and your training plan vanishes. A well-run training stay can strip some of that back so your dog can focus.
A helpful reset for overwhelmed owners: Real life happens. A new baby, illness, moving house, or a rough patch at work can make consistency really hard. Sending dog away for training can help lay groundwork while you get back on track.
Humane, reward-based work in experienced hands: This paper explains the wider conversation around training methods and notes that reward-based training methods are effective for helping manage or prevent behavioral problems in companion dogs. What matters in practice is choosing a trainer who is transparent, kind, and consistent in how they handle dogs day to day.
That said, the board and train pros and cons are never one-size-fits-all. These benefits are strongest when the trainer is genuinely skilled and your dog suits the format. A sociable, adaptable dog may settle in beautifully. A very anxious or separation-sensitive dog may find the whole experience harder than helpful.
Before you book anything, it is worth brushing up on your dog’s body language. It can help you judge whether your dog is coping confidently or quietly feeling overwhelmed, which is a big part of deciding whether dog board and train training is truly the right fit.
The downsides: cost, stress, and why results can fade at home
Board and train programmes can be genuinely transformative, but they come with real limitations worth understanding before you commit. Knowing the drawbacks isn’t about talking yourself out of it. It’s about going in with clear expectations so you can choose the right programme and actually get the most from it.
The three main drawbacks to consider:
The cost can be significant. Residential programmes typically run anywhere from £1,500 to £3,500 or more, depending on the trainer, location, and length of stay. That’s a serious investment, and it doesn’t always include follow-up sessions or owner coaching once your dog is back home.
Some dogs find the separation genuinely hard. Not every dog settles easily into a new environment away from their family. Anxious breeds, dogs with attachment sensitivities, or those who haven’t spent much time away from home can find the experience stressful, regardless of how good the facility is. It’s worth being honest about your dog’s temperament before you book.
Results can fade quickly without proper follow-through. This is probably the most overlooked downside of sending your dog away for training. If the programme doesn’t include structured handover coaching for you as the owner, the progress can unravel within weeks. Dogs learn behaviour in context, and a professional training environment is a world away from your living room, your routine, and the particular chaos of daily life with your family.
Worth knowing: A dog can learn to sit reliably in a training facility and then appear to forget it completely once they’re home. That’s not a failure on the dog’s part. It’s what happens when the environment and the reinforcement change overnight.
None of these drawbacks are reasons to rule out a board and train programme entirely. They’re reasons to ask better questions before you sign up. A reputable programme will include meaningful owner coaching at the end, not just a handover sheet and a wave goodbye. Because however well your dog has done, the training only sticks if you’re equipped to carry it forward once they’re back on the sofa with you.
How to know if a board and train programme is the right fit
Board and train isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution, and what works brilliantly for one dog can feel completely overwhelming for another. Age, temperament, the severity of the behaviour, and what your home life actually looks like all play a part when you’re weighing up the pros and cons of sending your dog away for training.
Board and train may be a good fit if…
Your dog has severe leash reactivity that needs consistent, immersive work beyond what weekly classes can offer
Your schedule is genuinely hectic and daily training practice is hard to sustain
Your dog is confident, sociable, and settles easily in new environments
You’re dealing with a specific, complex behaviour that needs expert input quickly
Your dog is a young adult with established problem behaviours that feel unmanageable at home
It may not be the right choice if…
Your dog is very young and still building trust and attachment with you
You have a shy or anxious dog who finds being away from home deeply distressing
The issue is rooted in your household dynamic, which a trainer working remotely simply can’t address
Your dog has a history of trauma or multiple rehoming experiences
You’re unlikely to follow through with the trainer’s plan once your dog is back home
Worth knowing: A dog’s background shapes how they respond to intensive away-from-home training more than most people realise. Whether your dog came from a breeder or a rescue can influence their confidence, attachment style, and ability to adapt. Our guide to breeders vs. rescues is a useful starting point for understanding how your dog’s origins might shape their training needs.
When in doubt, speak with a qualified trainer before committing. Advice tailored to your specific dog is always worth getting.
What to look for in a trainer or training facility
Choosing the right trainer matters just as much as choosing the right programme. A well-run facility with experienced, ethical trainers can make all the difference between lasting results and a stressful experience for everyone involved — so when you’re weighing up the pros and cons of sending your dog away for training, this part of the decision deserves just as much thought as the programme itself. Knowing what to look for puts you firmly in the driving seat.
Here’s what to check before you commit:
Recognised qualifications or accreditations. Look for trainers affiliated with bodies like the Animal Behaviour and Training Council (ABTC) or the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT). These aren’t just letters after a name — they signal real accountability.
Force-free, positive reinforcement methods. Any reputable trainer should be able to explain their approach clearly and confidently. Reward-based training is not only kinder, it tends to stick far better long-term.
Transparent daily routines. Ask exactly how your dog will spend their day. Meal times, training sessions, rest periods, socialisation — a good facility will answer without hesitation.
Safe, clean kennel environments. Your dog needs a comfortable, secure space to rest and decompress between sessions. If you’re unsure what a well-set-up kennel should look like, Lords & Labradors’ expert guide to dog cages is a genuinely useful reference.
Regular updates throughout the stay. Photos, short videos, written progress notes — these aren’t extras, they’re a reasonable expectation. A good trainer wants you in the loop.
A proper handover plan. Without one, results fade quickly. The best programmes include dedicated time to coach you on maintaining behaviours once your dog is home.
The option to visit or ask questions before booking. A pre-visit or introductory call should always be available.
Red flag: Any trainer who won’t let you see the facility or observe a session beforehand is worth walking away from.
A reputable trainer will welcome your questions and invite your scrutiny — that openness is itself a mark of quality. Taking the time to vet your options properly is what separates a board and train experience worth every penny from one you’ll later wish you’d skipped.
Safer alternatives: in-home training and what you can do next
For many families, sending a dog away for training simply isn’t the right fit, and that’s completely fine. Private in-home training is often a far better match, especially when the behaviours you’re tackling happen at home: jumping on guests, counter-surfing, ignoring recall in the garden. Working with a trainer in your actual space means the lessons are built around your routines, your layout, and your dog’s real triggers, not a kennel environment that looks nothing like your living room.
A good in-home trainer will observe how your dog behaves around you, spot the patterns you might not even notice, and show you exactly what to do in the moments that matter. You’re involved from day one, which means the skills are far more likely to stick. There’s no transfer gap to navigate, no trying to recreate what happened somewhere else.
If you’re not quite ready to book a trainer, there’s still plenty you can do right now. Getting the basics in place, like a consistent daily routine, clear boundaries, and a comfortable space your dog genuinely wants to settle in, makes every training effort more effective. If crate training is part of that foundation, our guide to crate training instructions walks you through it in a way that feels kind and manageable rather than stressful.
Small changes to your home setup can make a real difference too. A well-placed, cosy crate or a calm corner your dog can call their own gives them somewhere predictable to rest and decompress. That sense of security matters more than most people realise, especially when you’re building new habits together.
Whether you go for board and train, in-home sessions, or a blend of both, the best next step is simply the one you’ll actually follow through on. Start there.
Watching two cats curl up and wash each other is one of those small, lovely moments that makes a multi-cat home feel just right. This guide looks at why do cats lick each other, from the social bonds and shared scents behind allogrooming to the times when one-sided licking might be worth a closer look. You’ll also find practical tips on setting up your home so your cats can feel calm, comfortable, and genuinely at ease together.
Why do cats lick each other? A quick look at cat grooming
If you’ve ever caught your cats curled up together, giving each other a careful wash, it’s natural to wonder why do cats lick each other when they can groom themselves just fine. In most cases, it’s a lovely, normal part of cat grooming behavior called social grooming.
When cats groom each other, they’re not just tidying up. They’re building trust, sharing comfort, and showing that they feel relaxed enough to be close. You’ll often notice them licking around the head, ears, or neck, which are tricky spots to clean alone. So yes, there’s a practical side, but the bigger message is usually affection and bonding.
This starts early. Mother cats lick their kittens to clean them, soothe them, and help them feel secure. As cats grow, that same behaviour can carry into adult relationships, which helps explain why cats lick each other’s fur when they’ve formed a strong bond at home.
So if your two cats take turns grooming on the sofa or after a nap in their favourite bed, it’s usually a reassuring sign. They likely see each other as part of the same social group. If you’re also helping cats and dogs live happily together, our guide on how to get your dog and cat to get along may help.
What allogrooming means in a cat household
If you’ve ever caught one cat carefully washing another’s ears and wondered why do cats lick each other so intently, you’re looking at allogrooming. It’s simply the name for one cat grooming another, and it’s a very normal part of life in many multi-cat homes.
So, why do cats groom each other in the first place? Usually, it comes down to familiarity, comfort, and living closely together.
It helps build bonds. Grooming can be a calming, rewarding social interaction for cats, so doing it regularly may help strengthen their connection over time.
It creates a shared scent. When cats lick each other’s fur, they mix their scents together. That shared smell helps them recognise one another as part of the same social group.
It helps with hard-to-reach areas. The top of the head, around the ears, and the neck are awkward spots for a cat to clean alone, so a friendly housemate can step in.
It can keep the peace. In some pairs or groups, grooming seems to help smooth over small tensions and make everyone feel more settled.
It shows trust. Cats are vulnerable when they’re being groomed, so allowing another cat close in that way is often one of the loveliest cat affection signs to spot at home.
In a happy cat household, allogrooming often becomes part of the daily rhythm. It’s one of those little cat grooming behavior clues that can tell you your cats feel safe, familiar, and comfortable with each other.
Is it about love, hierarchy, or both?
The honest answer is that cat grooming behavior is rarely just one thing. When cats lick each other, it can absolutely be about affection, but it can also reflect who feels more confident, settled, or socially comfortable in the pair. So if you’ve ever wondered why do cats lick each other, the answer is often both love and social structure.
Cats may groom one another to:
strengthen a bond they already feel secure in
calm things down after a brief wobble or disagreement
share scent and reinforce a familiar group feeling at home
show social confidence, especially when one cat usually starts the grooming
comfort a companion they know well, including a sibling or long-time housemate
That’s why cat grooming behavior can look very sweet on the surface while still telling you something about the relationship underneath. One cat licking the other’s head or neck, for example, may be gentle and affectionate, but it can also show which cat tends to take the lead socially.
Worth knowing: one study on close-contact inter-cat interactions found that cats can show both affiliative and agonistic behaviors, so grooming may sit alongside tension rather than always meaning pure affection.
In other words, why do cats groom each other is not always a simple romance story. In a calm, well-set-up home, with enough space and resources like a cat scratch post, you’re more likely to see the relaxed, easy kind of grooming most pet parents hope for.
When one cat does all the licking: signs it may be stress, not just affection
Mutual grooming is usually a lovely sign that your cats feel safe and bonded together. But it’s worth paying attention when one cat is always doing the licking and the other is simply putting up with it. That kind of one-sided pattern can sometimes point to stress, anxiety, or an uneven social dynamic rather than pure affection.
Here are a few signs to watch for:
The cat being groomed flattens their ears or pulls their head away
They walk off mid-session looking relieved, not relaxed
One cat always initiates grooming, never the other way around
You notice thinning fur in certain spots from repeated, concentrated licking
The licking looks frantic or repetitive rather than slow and settled
The recipient shows tension during grooming — tail flicking, a low grumble, or a stiff body
Compulsive grooming can be a response to environmental stress. Giving cats a positive outlet for restless energy really does help, and something like a wall climber or activity centre can make a surprising difference to anxious behaviour at home.
A little one-sidedness is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about on its own. Most cats settle into their own grooming rhythms over time. But if you’re consistently noticing avoidance, tension, or licking that looks more compulsive than caring, it’s worth keeping a closer eye on things. A chat with your vet or a cat behaviourist can help you figure out what’s going on and how best to support both cats.
How to support calm, comfortable cat relationships at home
The good news is that most cats in the same household find their own rhythm over time. But there are things you can do to smooth the process along, especially if you have a newer pairing or a cat who seems a little unsettled.
Start with space. Cats feel safest when they have somewhere to retreat to that is entirely their own. If your cats share every bed, bowl, and sunny windowsill, tension can quietly build even when everything looks fine on the surface. Giving each cat a dedicated resting spot makes a real difference — not just for their comfort, but for the overall mood of the household. A cosy, enclosed bed works especially well as a personal sanctuary, somewhere a cat can decompress without another wandering in uninvited. If you are looking for something that suits each cat’s individual personality, the Lords & Labradors cat bed collection is well worth a browse.
Scratching posts are another simple win. Place them in a few different spots around the home and cats can mark their territory in a way that feels natural and low-conflict, which quietly helps keep the peace without anyone having to step in.
When it comes to encouraging closeness, let the cats lead. Grooming and licking will happen on their terms, and that is exactly how it should be. Moving them together when they seem settled apart, or hovering over interactions, can create friction rather than ease it. Step back and trust them.
Watching your cats groom each other and genuinely seem at ease together is one of the quiet joys of a multi-cat home. A little support from you goes a long way in helping them get there.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does it mean if cats lick each other?
It usually means they feel comfortable and familiar with each other. Cats often lick one another as part of social grooming, or allogrooming, which helps with bonding, shared scent, and cleaning hard-to-reach spots like the head, ears, and neck. It can also reflect social confidence within the pair.
Does the dominant cat groom the other?
Sometimes, yes. When one cat regularly starts the grooming, it can show social confidence or that they tend to take the lead in the relationship, not just affection. The bigger picture matters though, as relaxed body language and calm, mutual interactions usually suggest the grooming is comfortable and positive.
Is it good when a cat licks another cat?
Yes, in most cases it’s a good sign. Cats licking each other is often a normal, reassuring part of social grooming that shows trust, comfort, and bonding. It’s only worth watching more closely if the licking looks frantic, one-sided, or seems to make the other cat tense or uneasy.
At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog. Luxury dog crates...
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At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog.
Luxury dog crates
All our deluxe dog crates are made from pet-safe metal and feature removable trays to make them practical and super easy to clean. With sizes ranging from small to XXL, there’s a dog crate set to suit all breeds. Crates are essential when it comes to house training your new puppy. We always suggest buying a larger size dog crate and bed for your puppy so they can grow into it, saving you from having to purchase a new crate when they’re older.
Luxury crate bedding
Our luxury bedding is hand-crafted and designed to the highest quality, appearing both practical and stylish. Bumpers sit around the edge of the crate cushion to provide a super-soft wall of comfort for your pooch. All our bumpers and cushions feature waterproof linings in case of any accidents. It’s recommended to choose a dog crate with a cover – they’ll provide your draughty, bare cage with a fresh new look and offer some privacy for your dog too. They’re particularly great for helping young puppies settle into their night-time routines and offer nervous dogs an extra feeling of security.
Purchase your dog crate set online today
Treat your four-legged friend to one of our stylish dog crate, cover, bedding and bumper sets by browsing our online range today. If you’re struggling to decide which one would be perfect for your pooch, contact our team today who will be more than happy to help. You’ll have 28 days to return your product if you’re unhappy with it for any reason. Our Lords & Labradors items also come with a 365-day quality guarantee, so it’s easy to see why we’ve received so many positive reviews. We also offer free delivery on all orders over £75. Browse the range and order your dog crate set today.
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