Your dog's diet is really important and deciding what dog food to feed them is a crucial decision. From their developing puppy stages to their adulthood, the nutrients they consume is paramount. That is why at Lords & Labradors we have hand-picked a range of dog foods that are of high quality, high in nutrition and the best for your dog.
Is Wet or Dry Food Better for Dogs? Exploring the Pros and Cons
When it comes to feeding our canine companions, one of the most common questions that pet owners grapple with is whether to choose wet or dry dog food. The debate over wet vs. dry dog food has been ongoing for years, and there's no one-size-fits-all answer. The decision ultimately depends on various factors, including your dog's age, health, and personal preferences. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the pros and cons of wet and dry dog food to help you make an informed choice for your furry friend.
Wet vs. Dry Dog Food: What's the Difference?
Before we dive into the pros and cons, let's clarify what distinguishes wet and dry dog food:
Wet Dog Food:
Contains higher moisture content (approximately 70-80%)
Typically comes in cans or pouches
Often has a stronger aroma and flavour, which can be enticing to picky eaters
Easier to chew, making it an excellent choice for dogs with dental issues or missing teeth
Prone to spoilage if not refrigerated and consumed promptly
Can be more expensive per serving than dry food
Dry Dog Food:
Contains lower moisture content (around 10%)
Comes in the form of kibble or pellets
Promotes dental health by reducing tartar buildup through chewing
Offers convenience and a longer shelf life
May contain artificial preservatives and fillers
The Pros and Cons Of Wet & Dry Food
Wet Dog Food:
Pros:
Hydration: The high moisture content in wet food can help keep your dog hydrated, especially if they don't drink enough water.
Palatability: Many dogs find wet food more appealing due to its strong aroma and taste, making it suitable for picky eaters.
Digestibility: Wet food is often easier to digest, making it a good choice for dogs with sensitive stomachs or digestive issues.
Dental Health: While wet food doesn't promote dental health directly, it can be useful for dogs with dental problems who struggle to chew dry kibble.
Cons:
Cost: Wet dog food can be more expensive per serving than dry food, potentially straining your budget.
Storage: You need to store opened cans or pouches of wet food in the refrigerator to prevent spoilage.
Our Wet Food Recommendations
Here at L&L we stock a wide variety of wet foods for your dog. For a high quality and high meat content wet food our go to is the Carnilove wet foods. They're all made to appeal to your dog's natural wolf instincts with over 85% wild origin meats and they're all grain free so you can be sure they're the best quality for your dog.
Dry Dog Food:
Pros:
Convenience: Dry kibble is convenient to store, measure, and serve, making it a hassle-free option.
Dental Health: Chewing on dry kibble can help reduce tartar buildup and promote better dental health.
Cost-Effective: Dry food is often more budget-friendly than wet food, especially for larger dogs.
Long Shelf Life: It has a longer shelf life, reducing the risk of food waste.
Cons:
Hydration Concerns: Because dry food has lower moisture content, it might not provide enough hydration for some dogs, potentially leading to urinary tract issues.
Palatability: Some dogs may be less enthusiastic about dry kibble's taste and texture.
Our Dry Food Recommendations
We also stock a variety of dry foods, some of the ones with higher meat content and more natural ingredients include Acana, Carnilove and Orijen - these are great for making sure your dog is getting all the nutrients they need.
Choosing the Right Food for Your Dog:
When deciding between wet and dry dog food, consider the following factors:
Age: Puppies and senior dogs may benefit from wet food due to its enhanced digestibility and hydration. Adult dogs can thrive on a balanced dry food diet.
Health Needs: Consult with your veterinarian if your dog has specific health concerns, as they can recommend an appropriate diet.
Budget: Evaluate your budget and choose the food that meets your financial constraints while ensuring your dog's nutritional needs are met.
Preference: Some dogs have strong preferences for one type of food over the other, so consider your dog's taste preferences.
Conclusion:
In the debate of wet vs. dry dog food, there's no one-size-fits-all answer. Both options have their pros and cons, and the best choice depends on your dog's individual needs, your budget, and your personal preferences as a pet owner.
If you're unsure what to feed your dog why not check out our large range of dog foods. We have lots of speciality dog foods for specific breeds, sizes and health concerns so you can tailor your dog's food to give them everything they need nutritionally.
Once you've found the perfect food for your dog why not Subscribe & Save. Our Subscribe & Save service allows you to save up to 15% on your dog's favourite food and have it delivered to your door exactly when you need it so you never run out!
Remember to consult with your vet for tailored dietary recommendations, and always prioritise your dog's health and well-being when making this important decision.
Food hygiene is really important when it comes to the health and wellbeing of our pets. Making sure your dog’s and cat's food bowls are clean will ensure the food tastes fresh and also stop any build-up of bacteria which could cause health problems such as vomiting.
In this blog post we take a look at how often you should wash your pet bowls and dishes as well as how to clean them. Read on for our top tips about keeping your pet feeding bowls clean.
How Often Should You Wash Dog Bowls?
[product]Ideally, you should clean your dog’s bowls after each mealtime. It’s okay if you forget every once in a while, but we should really to do our best to keep on top of keeping them clean. Pet bowls can easily build up with germs which can lead to health problems for your dog or cat such as tummy upsets and vomiting. When your pet eats directly from their bowl, bacteria from your pet’s mouth is transferred to any leftovers which can then flourish in the bowl. The longer this is left the more germ ridden the bowl will become. One study actually found that pet bowls are one of the dirtiest things in most homes, coming 4th on a list of top germ-infested items in the home. To stop this happening, we need to ensure they’re cleaned regularly, and that your pet is eating from a clean bowl or dish.
What To Clean Dog Bowls With
Your dog’s bowls should be cleaned with warm soapy water and a separate dish cloth or sponge to the one that is used for your other washing up. You should take care to lather and clean thoroughly and then rinse really well. Make sure all the soap has been rinsed fully before drying, ready to use again. It is essential that any food remnants or crumbs are scrubbed from the bowl as it is this food debris which is most likely to carry germs and bacteria.
Is It Safe To Wash Dog Bowls In The Dishwasher?
Dog bowls are often safe to be washed in the dishwasher and there should be a mark saying so on the packaging of your particular bowl. Generally, it’s just plastic bowls that aren’t suitable as they could melt in the heat.
[product]At Lords & Labradors we have a variety of dishwasher safe dog bowls that are really simple to keep clean. There is a whole range of melamine bowls by Tarhong which have the practicality and break-resistance of plastic, whilst being dishwasher friendly. They come in a fabulous range of designs too with something to suit every taste.
[product]We also love the ceramic dog bowls by Scruffs which can be washed in the dishwasher. These bowls have been designed with your dogs in mind, they have versions for flat-faced dogs and long eared dogs.
Why Wash Dog Bowls Separately?
It’s important to wash your pet bowls separately from your own dishes, to stop any cross contamination. All kinds of bacteria can flourish in pet bowls including salmonella. If this bacteria is transferred on to any of your dishes or kitchen surfaces it can cause illness in humans as well as your pets. Ensuring that bowls are properly cleaned and that no food remnants remain on the dishes is imperative for the health of the whole household.
Natural dog treats popularity is quickly growing, and there are so many health benefits it’s easy to understand why. A hairy rabbit’s ear or duck foot may not sound the most appetising but your dogs will love them. In this blog, we’re going to explore the benefits of natural treats.
10 Benefits of natural treats
One of the main benefits of our natural treats is that they’re 100% animal, there are no additives or preservatives in there – they’re all exactly what they say on the tin. This makes them great for keeping your dogs healthy and you can ensure you’re only giving them the best.
1. Stronger Immunity
Just like us, dogs require a well-balanced diet to stay fit and healthy, natural treats help to give your dogs the range of nutrients that their bodies need. Protein is super important for boosting your dog's immunity and natural treats are rich in protein making them the perfect treats for your pooches.
2. Better Digestion
Dog's stomachs haven’t developed to handle artificial chemicals that are found in a lot of processed dog food. This is one of the key benefits of natural treats – the lack of additives and artificial chemicals means it’s easier for your dog to digest and they’re able to absorb all the important nutrients that their bodies need.
3. Dental and oral health support
Four out of five dogs over the age of three suffer from dental problems. Natural treats are great for keeping your dog's teeth clean, when your dog is chewing on these natural crunch teeth it will help to clean their teeth and get rid of any dirt that’s built up.
4. Natural Dewormers
[product]Treats with hair on, such as hairy rabbits ears, are actually natural dewormers. The hair helps to cleanse their digestive system and flush out any nasties.
5. Healthier Skin and Coats
Give your dogs the glossy coats you’ve always dreamed of with natural treats, the healthy fats in them will help give their coats that special shine. The blend of nutrients in natural treats can help with skin allergies in dogs, healing and moisturising any outbreaks as well as preventing any future ones. Natural treats are rich in vitamin A which is essential for maintaining healthy skin, hair, and teeth.
6. Fewer Allergies
Many mainstream dog treats have additives such as grain to help bulk them out, many dogs are actually allergic to grain and often suffer from upset stomachs because of this. Our Natural treats don’t contain any of these hidden allergens and the high levels of vitamin C in many natural dog treats help the white blood cells to fight off any potential reactions or illnesses.
7. Naturally calming
[product]Studies have shown that when dogs chew it is a natural anxiety reliever, it releases endorphins in your dogs brain so helps to calm them down. Dried Natural Treats are perfect for your dogs to chew on, they are often long-lasting so also act as a great boredom buster.
8. Air Dried
Our natural treats are air dried which means the treats are protein and nutrients rich. Once the moisture has been dried out of the natural treat, it means the proteins and nutrients are much more concentrated. This makes natural treats so much more rewarding and tastier for your dogs.
9. Single Protein Source
Some mainstream dog treats will combine different proteins together, however, if your dog has an allergy to certain proteins this can make finding treats for them difficult. Natural treats are an easy way to make sure your dog is only getting the proteins that agree with them and that they love. The Wild Deli treats are perfect for picking the proteins your dogs know and love.
10. Rawhide Free
All of our natural dog treats are rawhide-free! Rawhide is bad for your dog, they are ladened with chemicals and are difficult for your dogs to digest. Natural treats are a great alternative, they are long-lasting and are great for your dog inside and out.
Looking to start feeding your dogs with natural treats? Our Natural Graze boxes are the perfect way for your dog to try lots of different treats and figure out which ones they like. They come in three sizes, Essential, Luxury, and Ultimate – all of which are packed with delicious natural treats your dog is sure to enjoy.
Or if you know which treats your dog likes why not buy your dog a whole bag of them from our Wild Deli range?
If you have any questions about natural treats why not ask our Customer Care team? They are available on 01790 720 900 or sales@lordsandlabradors.co.uk, Monday-Friday 9-5 to answer any questions or queries you may have
If you’ve ever watched your dog lose the plot at the postman or stiffen up the moment a visitor walks in, you’re not alone — and there’s usually a very good reason behind it. Understanding why dogs bark at strangers starts with figuring out what they’re actually trying to communicate, whether that’s a bit of nerves, a protective instinct, or simply a heads-up that someone new has arrived. In this article, we’ll walk through the most common causes, how to read what your dog is telling you, and some gentle, practical ways to help them feel more settled around unfamiliar faces.
Why dogs bark at strangers in the first place
When your dog barks at the parcel courier or launches into a full performance the moment a guest walks through the door, it can feel embarrassing — or just plain baffling. But dog barking at strangers is rarely a sign that your dog is being difficult or badly behaved. Most of the time, they’re simply trying to tell you something.
Dogs don’t have the vocabulary we do, so barking is one of their main ways of expressing how they feel. When an unfamiliar face appears, your dog has to make a quick call: is this person safe? That assessment happens in seconds, and how they respond — one sharp bark or a full-on chorus — says a lot about what’s going on for them in that moment.
There are a few reasons why dogs bark at strangers. Some feel uncertain or a little unsettled by someone new. Others are protecting their space, their home, or you. And some are simply doing what comes naturally as a watchdog, flagging that something unfamiliar is nearby. Knowing which of those is driving the behaviour makes a real difference when it comes to actually helping your dog feel more at ease.
Before jumping to solutions, it’s worth pausing to read what your dog is communicating. Their body language alongside the bark usually tells the fuller story. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a great place to start if you’d like to get better at reading the signs.
Fear barking: when a stranger feels worrying or unsafe
Fear-based barking is one of the most common reasons dogs bark at strangers, and it’s rarely about aggression. Think of it as an anxiety response — your dog’s way of saying “I’m not sure about this person, and I really need some space.” If your dog looks unsettled rather than bold when they bark, fear is very likely at the root of it.
Here are some body language signals to look out for alongside the barking:
Backing away or retreating while still barking
Barking from behind your legs or pressing close against you
A stiff, tense body with weight shifted backwards
Tail tucked low or held unusually still
Lip licking, yawning, or excessive blinking
Whites of the eyes showing (often called “whale eye”)
When it comes to why dogs bark at strangers out of fear, it usually comes down to how they’re reading a situation. Direct eye contact, quick movements, someone leaning in to say hello, or a loud voice can all feel genuinely overwhelming to a nervous dog. Factor in a tricky past experience with an unfamiliar person, and it makes complete sense that barking becomes their way of creating distance. If you’ve ever thought “but they were so friendly” — that’s often exactly the point. It’s not about the person; it’s about how the moment feels to your dog.
Worth remembering: a lot of well-meaning strangers do things that dogs find uncomfortable without realising it. Crouching down, reaching out a hand, or making prolonged eye contact are classic examples.
Fear barking is communication, not a character flaw. Once you start reading what your dog is actually trying to tell you, you can begin taking small, meaningful steps to help them feel safer around new people.
Territorial barking: guarding the home, car, or favourite person
Territorial barking comes from a deep-rooted instinct to protect what your dog considers theirs — their home, their garden, their people. It’s one of the most common reasons dogs bark at strangers, and once you recognise it, a lot of their behaviour suddenly starts to make sense.
Some of the most typical triggers include:
Barking the moment someone rings the bell or even turns up the path
Window watching and reacting to anyone passing the house or garden
Kicking off at pedestrians or other dogs going by the car
Barking when a stranger gets too close to you on a walk or in a shared space
Alerting loudly when an unfamiliar face enters a room your dog considers their own
How to tell it apart from fear or alert barking: Territorial barking tends to be confident, sustained, and forward-facing. Your dog holds their ground rather than retreating. Fear barking is more erratic, often paired with cowering or backing away. Alert barking is usually shorter and settles once your dog feels acknowledged.
According to Tufts University’s Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine, dogs that bark when people or dogs walk by the house, yard, or car are likely motivated at least in part by territoriality — which helps explain why this behaviour so often spikes in familiar, enclosed spaces.
Dogs who are particularly protective of one person can become more intense in smaller environments too. If your dog uses a crate as their safe space, dog crate bumpers can help create a calmer, more den-like atmosphere — which sometimes takes the edge off that protective tension.
Either way, understanding the trigger is always your starting point.
Alert barking: your dog’s way of saying ‘something’s happening’
Alert barking is one of the most natural things a dog can do. It’s their way of flagging something unfamiliar — a knock at the door, a delivery driver pulling up outside, or a stranger passing the front window. If you’ve ever asked yourself why dogs bark at strangers, this kind of instinctive alerting is often the simplest explanation.
Common triggers include:
The doorbell or a knock at the door
Delivery drivers or visitors arriving
Pedestrians passing the garden or front window
Unexpected noises from outside the house
A couple of woofs to announce someone’s arrival? Completely normal. But if your dog barks relentlessly at every person who passes, that’s worth paying closer attention to.
Alert barking is healthy communication up to a point. When it becomes persistent or intense, it can sometimes signal that something more is going on — anxiety, over-protectiveness, or a dog that just hasn’t learned to settle once the “threat” has passed. If you find yourself wondering why your dog is protective of you every time someone new appears, they may have moved beyond simply sounding the alarm.
Every dog is different, of course. But consistent, heightened reactions to strangers are usually a sign your dog could use a bit of extra support feeling calm and confident in the world.
Worth knowing: alert barking can also ramp up when you’re out on walks. If that sounds familiar, it’s a pattern worth looking into — we’ve covered it in more detail in our guide to why dogs bark when out walking.
What you can do to calm barking around strangers
Understanding why dogs bark at strangers is a great starting point, but knowing what to actually do in those moments? That’s where most of us could use a little guidance. The good news is that small, consistent changes can make a real difference over time, without needing to turn your whole routine upside down.
Create distance before your dog reacts. If you’re out on a walk and you can feel your dog clocking a stranger ahead, cross the road or quietly turn around before they hit their threshold. Giving them space to breathe makes it much easier to stay calm.
Reward calm, every single time. Keep treats in your pocket on walks. The moment your dog notices someone and doesn’t react, mark it with a quiet “yes” and a treat. You’re teaching them that choosing calm is always worth it.
Keep guest arrivals low-key. Brief visitors to ignore your dog when they first walk in — no eye contact, no crouching down to say hello straight away. Letting your dog approach in their own time makes the whole thing far less loaded.
Build a predictable greeting routine. When visitors always sit down quietly before interacting, your dog starts to learn what’s coming. That predictability genuinely helps them relax.
Reduce rehearsal at home. If your dog barks at strangers passing the window, try frosted window film or shifting their bed to a quieter spot. The less they practise the behaviour, the faster the habit starts to fade.
Tip: Every calm moment near a stranger is worth marking and rewarding. You’re building a new pattern, one quiet interaction at a time.
Patient, realistic management will always do more for your dog than chasing a quick fix. And if anxiety feels like a bigger theme for your pup beyond strangers, our guide to keeping your dog calm during stressful situations is well worth a read.
When barking at strangers needs a bit more support
Most dogs bark at strangers from time to time, and honestly, that’s just part of having a dog. But if the barking is ramping up in intensity, happening more frequently, or your dog seems genuinely frightened rather than simply on alert, it’s worth getting a little extra support.
A few signs it might be time to call in a professional: lunging, snapping, or growling alongside the barking; a dog who can’t settle long after a stranger has left; or barking that keeps getting worse despite everything you’ve tried at home. A qualified trainer or certified behaviourist can help you work out what’s really behind the behaviour and build a plan that suits your dog specifically, not just dogs in general.
You know your dog better than anyone. If something feels off, trust that feeling. Getting support early, before things have a chance to escalate, makes the whole process so much easier. There’s no shame in it. The best pet parents ask for help all the time.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does it mean if a dog barks at a stranger?
It usually means your dog is communicating how they feel about someone unfamiliar. They may be worried, protecting their space or people, or simply alerting you that something new is happening. The meaning becomes much clearer when you look at their body language alongside the barking.
How do I get my dog to stop barking at strangers?
The best way is to help your dog feel calmer before they react and reward that calm consistently. Create more distance, keep greetings low-key, ask visitors to ignore your dog at first, and reduce barking practice at windows. If it’s getting worse or feels intense, get support from a qualified trainer or behaviourist.
What are dogs saying when they bark at strangers?
They’re usually saying one of three things: ‘I’m not sure about this,’ ‘this is my space,’ or ‘something’s happening.’ Some dogs bark because they feel uneasy, some because they’re being territorial, and others are simply sounding the alarm. Their posture and overall body language help tell you which it is.
Most pet parents are surprised to learn just how much their dog relies on those stiff little hairs around the muzzle and brows. The effects of cutting dog whiskers are subtler than you might expect, but they can leave your dog feeling genuinely unsettled in their day-to-day life. In this article, we cover why whiskers matter so much, what changes when they’re trimmed, and exactly what to do if your dog’s whiskers have already been cut.
What dog whiskers actually do for your dog
Whiskers might look like oversized stray hairs, but they’re doing something genuinely impressive beneath the surface. Each whisker — technically called a vibrissa — is rooted far deeper than regular coat hair and connects to a dense cluster of nerve endings. Every tiny air shift, brush against a surface, or change in pressure sends detailed sensory information straight to your dog’s brain.
Think of them as a built-in spatial awareness system. The whiskers above the eyes trigger a blink reflex the moment something gets too close, protecting your dog before they’ve even registered the threat. The ones around the muzzle help your dog judge whether a gap is wide enough to squeeze through — which explains that funny little pause you’ve probably noticed before they commit to nosing through a tight space. That’s not hesitation. That’s the whiskers working exactly as they should.
Whiskers also pick up subtle air movement, which helps dogs build a picture of their surroundings even when visibility is low. In dim lighting, dense undergrowth, or when your dog is rooting around under the sofa, those sensory signals make a real difference to how confidently they move.
This is exactly why the effects of cutting dog whiskers go well beyond looks. When whiskers are removed, dogs lose a layer of sensory feedback they rely on constantly — often in ways we’d never notice, because whiskers do so much of their work quietly in the background. If you’re curious about the other ways dogs read and respond to their environment, our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is well worth a read.
Effects of cutting dog whiskers: what changes and why it feels so off
The effects of cutting dog whiskers are rarely dramatic, but they are real — and once you know what to look for, they’re surprisingly easy to spot. Most owners notice subtle shifts in how their dog moves and reacts, rather than any obvious signs of distress.
Here’s what you might observe after a trim:
Bumping into furniture or doorframes, especially in low light
Hesitating before squeezing through narrow gaps or entering smaller spaces
Misjudging distances when reaching for toys, food bowls, or objects on the ground
Startling more easily at movement or objects in their peripheral field
Seeming uncertain or unsettled during activities they usually breeze through
A quick note on pain: cutting whiskers doesn’t hurt in the way cutting skin would — the hair shaft itself has no nerve endings. But removing them does take away a key sensory tool, and that loss of input creates real discomfort and insecurity for your dog, even if they can’t tell you that.
Whiskers act as a constant stream of environmental feedback, helping your dog judge space, airflow, and nearby objects with genuine precision. Without that input, even familiar routes and routines can feel slightly off. It’s one of the clearest reasons why dog whiskers are important well beyond how they look — and why most vets and groomers agree you shouldn’t trim dog whiskers unless there’s a specific medical reason to do so.
That disorientation doesn’t always stay indoors, either. If your dog seems hesitant or on edge during walks after a grooming session, disrupted sensory confidence could be part of the picture — worth keeping in mind if you’re also noticing unusual barking or anxious behaviour out on walks.
Why the “whiskers are just hair” myth gets it wrong
It’s easy to see why people think whiskers are just wiry little hairs around the muzzle, but they work very differently from the rest of your dog’s coat. Whiskers, or vibrissae, sit much deeper in the skin and are surrounded by blood-filled follicles with lots of nerve endings. That’s why the effects of cutting dog whiskers can feel so different from a normal trim.
What makes them special?
They’re set deeper: Whiskers have a much deeper anchor than ordinary fur, which helps them stay steady and pick up tiny movements.
They’re part of your dog’s sensory system: When a whisker moves, it sends signals your dog uses to make sense of what’s nearby.
They notice subtle changes: They can help dogs detect shifts in air movement and the position of nearby objects, even before they bump into them.
They support confident movement: Dogs use whiskers to judge spaces, especially in dim light or unfamiliar places.
They help dogs feel secure: When whiskers are trimmed, some dogs seem a bit hesitant or clumsy simply because an important source of feedback has gone.
That’s also why, if you’ve ever wondered should you trim dog whiskers, most pet parents and groomers would say no unless there’s a medical reason. Even things that sit close to the face, like a well-fitted snood, should feel comfortable and not press on those sensitive whiskers.
How whisker trimming can happen during grooming, and how to avoid it
Whisker trimming often happens without anyone meaning it to. During a quick tidy-up at home or a trip to the groomer, those sensitive little hairs can get snipped in seconds, usually when working around the muzzle or brows. Once you understand the effects of cutting dog whiskers, it’s much easier to stay mindful — and the good news is that most accidental trims are entirely preventable with a few small habits in place.
At home grooming
Switch to blunt-tipped scissors whenever you’re trimming fur around the face. They give you far more control and reduce the risk of a stray snip near the muzzle or brows.
Work slowly, especially if your dog is wriggly or a little anxious. Short, calm sessions are always better than rushing to get it done in one go.
Before you put the scissors away, do a quick check of the muzzle, brows, and paw pads to make sure everything looks as it should.
If your dog is having a particularly fidgety day, save the face trim for another session when they’re more settled.
At professional grooming appointments
Mention at every appointment that you’d like the whiskers left intact. Even if your groomer knows you well, it’s worth saying — don’t assume they’ll remember.
Bring it up again at drop-off as a friendly reminder. It only takes a second.
When you collect your dog, take a moment to check the muzzle and brow area before you head home.
Once you know what to watch for, protecting your dog’s whiskers quickly becomes second nature. It’s a small thing that makes a genuine difference to how confident and comfortable your dog feels every day.
What to do if your dog’s whiskers were cut
If your dog’s whiskers were trimmed at their last groom, here’s the most important thing to know: they do grow back. It takes anywhere from a few weeks to a few months depending on the dog, but they will return. In the meantime, your main job is simply to keep things calm and consistent.
You might notice your dog being a little more hesitant than usual — bumping into the coffee table, or moving carefully through spaces they’d normally breeze through. That’s the effects of cutting dog whiskers showing up in everyday life, and it really is temporary. Try to avoid rearranging furniture or introducing lots of new places while they’re finding their feet again. Familiar surroundings make a genuine difference.
Keep routines steady, give them plenty of positive time with you, and hold off on anything that might feel overwhelming. If you’ve recently brought a new dog home on top of all this, our guide to making those first days feel safe and settled is well worth a read.
If your dog seems genuinely distressed, goes off their food, or something just feels off beyond what you’d expect, give your vet a call. Trust your instincts. You know your dog better than anyone, and sometimes a quick conversation with a professional is exactly what you both need.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it bad if you cut a dog’s whiskers?
Yes, it’s best not to cut a dog’s whiskers unless there’s a medical reason. Trimming them doesn’t usually cause dramatic symptoms, but it removes an important source of sensory feedback, which can leave dogs feeling unsure, more easily startled, and less confident judging spaces or objects around them.
Do dogs feel pain if whiskers are cut?
No, cutting the whisker itself doesn’t hurt like cutting skin because the hair shaft has no nerve endings. But whiskers are an important sensory tool, so trimming them can still make a dog feel unsettled, less secure, and a bit clumsy while they adjust to that lost feedback.
Why do groomers cut off dogs’ whiskers?
Usually, groomers don’t mean to cut them off on purpose. Whiskers often get trimmed accidentally during face tidying, especially around the muzzle or brows, and it can happen in seconds. That’s why it helps to mention at every appointment that you’d like your dog’s whiskers left intact.
How do dog groomers avoid cutting whiskers?
Dog groomers avoid cutting whiskers by being especially careful around the muzzle and brows and by following clear instructions from you. It helps to mention at every appointment that you want the whiskers left intact, repeat it at drop-off, and quickly check the face when you collect your dog.
Rabies is one of those things most pet parents hope they will never need to think about, but knowing the early signs of rabies in dogs could genuinely make the difference when it matters most. In this article, we cover how the illness typically begins, how it progresses, what to do if you think your dog has been exposed, and why vaccination is still the most important thing you can do. Consider this your calm, clear starting point.
What the early signs of rabies in dogs can look like
One of the hardest things about spotting the early signs of rabies in dogs is that they can look like almost anything else. A dog who seems a little off, slightly more anxious than usual, or oddly clingy after a long day outside is easy to explain away. That is exactly what makes this stage so important to understand.
In the very earliest phase, pet parents tend to notice subtle shifts in personality rather than obvious physical symptoms. Your dog might seem unusually restless, hide away when they would normally seek you out, or snap at something that would not normally bother them. Some dogs become more vocal. Others go quiet. A usually confident dog might suddenly seem nervous or jumpy, while a sociable one may want to be left alone.
These shifts happen because the virus begins affecting the brain and nervous system before any dramatic symptoms appear. Knowing your dog’s baseline really does matter here. If you feel like you could brush up on the signals your dog sends day to day, this guide to reading your dog’s body language is a genuinely useful place to start.
It is also worth being clear: none of these early signs point exclusively to rabies. Anxiety, irritability, and hiding can all signal pain, illness, stress, or a whole range of other conditions. Behavioural changes alone are not a diagnosis.
That said, if your dog has had any possible contact with a wild animal, or you are noticing changes you simply cannot account for, do not sit on it. Call your vet straight away. With rabies, early action is not just helpful. It is everything.
How rabies spreads and why timing matters
Rabies spreads when infected saliva enters the body, most often through a bite wound from an infected animal. Contact with wildlife, stray dogs, or any unfamiliar animal carries real risk, and even a small puncture wound can be enough for the virus to take hold.
Key transmission and timing facts:
The primary route of infection is a bite from a rabid animal, where saliva enters broken skin directly
Less commonly, rabies can spread if infected saliva contacts open cuts or mucous membranes
The incubation period varies widely, typically 3 to 8 weeks, though it can range from just a few days to over a year
Throughout that entire window, a dog may look and behave completely normally while the virus travels silently along nerve pathways toward the brain
Why timing matters
By the time rabies symptoms in dogs become visible, the disease is almost always fatal. There is no effective treatment once clinical signs appear. Early intervention after any suspicious exposure is the only real option, which is why acting quickly is so important.
If your dog has recently been in a fight, taken a bite from an unknown animal, or had any contact with wildlife, please do not take a wait-and-see approach. It is worth knowing that even everyday behaviours like licking or mouthing can become relevant in exposure situations, since saliva contact with broken skin or mucous membranes does carry some risk. When in doubt, call your vet and let them help you decide what to do next.
With transmission and timing covered, it is time to look at what the early signs of rabies in dogs actually look like in practice.
How the illness can progress from behavior changes to neurological signs
Rabies rarely starts with the dramatic signs people expect. More often, it begins with a dog who just doesn’t seem quite like themselves. You might notice they seem unusually quiet, restless, clingy, or on edge, and those early signs of rabies in dogs can be easy to brush off after a long day, a bad night’s sleep, or even an upset tummy.
What makes rabies so worrying is how quickly that “something feels off” stage can shift into obvious neurological problems. A dog who is normally steady and predictable may start reacting strangely to touch, sound, or movement. If your dog usually gets vocal or excitable outdoors, there can be plenty of harmless explanations for that, especially when out walking. But a sudden, unexplained change in temperament in a dog you know well is different, and it deserves urgent attention.
As the illness progresses, movement and awareness can change too. Some dogs become disoriented, seem unsure in familiar spaces, or struggle to walk normally. Swallowing may become difficult, which can lead to jaw weakness and the heavy drooling many people associate with rabies symptoms in dogs. In more advanced stages, seizures, collapse, or severe distress can follow.
That is why this is never something to “keep an eye on” at home once symptoms begin. Rabies can move from subtle behaviour changes to serious neurological signs very quickly, and by that point it is a medical emergency for both your dog and the people around them. If your dog is showing these kinds of changes after any possible exposure, contact your vet or local public health team straight away.
What to do if you think your dog may have been exposed
If you suspect your dog has been exposed to rabies, don’t wait to see what develops. Suspected contact with a potentially rabid animal is an emergency, and the early signs of rabies in dogs can appear before you even realise exposure has happened.
Isolate your dog straight away. Keep them away from other pets, children, and adults until you’ve spoken to a professional. Even if your dog seems completely fine, this step matters right now.
Call your vet or an emergency animal clinic. Explain exactly what happened: when, where, and what animal was involved. They’ll guide your next steps based on your dog’s vaccination history and your location.
Report the incident to your local public health authority. Rabies is a notifiable disease in many regions, and local authorities can advise on any legal requirements or quarantine protocols that apply to you.
Don’t wait for symptoms before acting. Early rabies symptoms in dogs can be subtle and easy to miss. Prompt reporting protects everyone, including your dog.
Follow the guidance you’re given carefully. Next steps often depend on vaccination status and regional regulations, so don’t assume that advice meant for someone else applies to your situation.
Worth knowing: Even vaccinated dogs need urgent veterinary assessment after a suspected exposure. Vaccination significantly reduces risk, but it doesn’t replace professional evaluation.
You don’t need to panic, but you do need to act quickly. Staying calm and decisive is genuinely the most helpful thing you can do for your dog in that moment. And being a prepared pet parent day to day makes all the difference, so make sure you have everything for your dog sorted long before a situation like this arises.
Vaccination and prevention are what protect your dog best
Keeping your dog’s rabies vaccination current is the single most effective thing you can do — and that’s true even if your dog lives a mostly quiet, indoor family life. Rabies doesn’t only find dogs who roam freely. A bat finding its way into the house, a brief garden encounter with a hedgehog, or an off-lead moment in the park are all real scenarios where exposure could happen without any warning.
Practically speaking, sensible prevention doesn’t have to be complicated. Stay on top of booster schedules and put the due date somewhere you’ll genuinely notice it — the fridge, your phone calendar, wherever works for you. If your dog has been to a boarding kennel, a dog show, or travelled abroad, it’s worth checking whether any updated vaccination requirements apply on your return. And where you can, try to reduce unsupervised contact with wildlife, particularly at dawn and dusk when animals like foxes are most active.
Cornell University’s Riney Canine Health Center notes that the most common signs of rabies are behavioral changes and paralysis. It’s a sobering reminder that by the time any warning signs appear, options are already limited. Prevention really is the whole story here.
Good general habits — including regular exercise and routine care — absolutely contribute to a healthier, happier dog. But when it comes to rabies specifically, nothing replaces being vaccinated and staying up to date.
This article is here to help you feel informed, not worried. If you have any concerns about your dog’s behaviour or a possible exposure, please talk to your vet directly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long can a dog carry rabies before showing symptoms?
A dog can carry rabies for quite a while before showing symptoms, most often around 3 to 8 weeks, though it can be as short as a few days or stretch to over a year. During that time, they may look and act completely normal, which is why quick action after any exposure matters.
Can a dog have rabies without you knowing?
Yes, a dog can have rabies without you knowing at first. In the incubation period, they may seem completely normal, and even the earliest changes can look like everyday stress or illness, such as restlessness, hiding, clinginess, or unusual irritability. Any possible exposure should be treated as urgent.
Bringing a new kitten home when you already have a dog is one of those things that feels both exciting and quietly nerve-wracking — and you are definitely not alone in that. Knowing how to introduce a kitten to a dog in a way that feels calm and considered makes a real difference to how both pets settle in together. This guide walks you through everything from scent swapping and first meetings to escape routes, reading the signs, and building a routine that works for the whole household.
Before They Meet: What Your Dog and Kitten Need to Feel Safe
The most successful kitten and dog introductions happen long before the two animals are ever in the same room. That might sound counterintuitive, but the groundwork you lay in the days before their first meeting makes an enormous difference to how both pets experience that moment.
Start by thinking honestly about your dog. A relaxed, older dog who has met cats before is a very different prospect to a young, excitable terrier who still chases squirrels like it’s his life’s work. Neither situation is a deal-breaker, but knowing your dog’s temperament helps you set a realistic pace. If he has a strong prey drive or finds it hard to settle around small, fast-moving animals, plan for a slower introduction and be kind to yourself about the timeline.
Your kitten needs their own safe space before anything else happens. Set up a quiet room they can call their own — somewhere with a cosy bed, a litter tray, food, water, and a spot to hide if the world feels like too much. And to a tiny kitten, it often does. Letting them settle into a calm, familiar base before any introductions begin means they have a chance to find their feet rather than going straight into the deep end.
Your dog needs some reassurance too. Keep their routine as normal as possible: same walks, same mealtimes, same cuddles on the sofa. Consistency tells them that the new arrival is not costing them anything.
A slow start is not a sign things are going wrong. More often than not, it is exactly the right approach. For more on building a bond that lasts, our guide to getting your dog and cat to get along is well worth a read.
How to Swap Scents So They Get Used to Each Other
Before your dog and kitten ever share the same room, letting them get used to each other’s scent is one of the most important steps you can take. Smell is everything to both species. Giving them time to investigate each other’s scent on their own terms, without any pressure or expectation, helps take the edge off that first face-to-face meeting before it even happens.
The swap itself is simple. Take a blanket or soft toy from the kitten’s space and place it somewhere your dog can sniff freely, then do the reverse. A dedicated soft scent blanket works particularly well here because it holds scent effectively and moves easily between rooms. Then just let them get on with it. Some animals will sniff once and wander off. Others will circle back repeatedly over several days. Both are completely normal, and neither needs your input.
Signs of calm curiosity to look for:
Relaxed body posture, loose tail, soft ears
A gentle sniff followed by moving away unbothered
Returning to the item later without fixating on it
Settling nearby without any visible tension
Signs you should slow things down:
Growling or stiffening near the scented item
Fixated staring that doesn’t ease off
Pawing aggressively at a door or barrier
Your kitten hiding, freezing, or refusing to come out of their safe space
How each pet responds at this stage tells you a lot about how to pace the introduction going forward. Rushing the scent swap is one of the most common mistakes people make when introducing a kitten to a dog. Taking an extra few days here costs you nothing, and it can make everything that follows feel significantly calmer for both of them.
The First Face-to-Face Meeting: Keep It Short, Calm, and Supervised
When you finally bring your kitten and dog together for the first time, it can feel like a milestone — and in many ways, it is. But the goal for that very first meeting is actually quite simple: keep it short, keep it calm, and don’t leave either of them to it. Knowing how to introduce a kitten to a dog well comes down to patience and reading the room, not engineering a perfect friendship in one afternoon.
Pick the right moment. Choose a time when your dog has already been out for a walk or had a good play session and is naturally winding down. A settled dog is far easier to work with than one who’s still fizzing with energy.
Keep your dog on a lead with slack. A secure, well-fitted lead gives you gentle control without adding tension your dog might pick up on. Hold it loosely — the aim is guidance, not restraint.
Let the kitten call the shots. Place your kitten in the room and let them decide whether to creep closer or stay put. Don’t carry them over to the dog or try to hurry things along. Their confidence at this stage is everything, and it has to come from them.
Watch both pets closely. A relaxed dog will have soft eyes, a loose body, and general curiosity rather than intense fixation. For your kitten, watch for puffing up, hissing, or sudden stillness — all signs they need a bit more space and breathing room.
Keep it brief. Two or three minutes of calm, drama-free interaction is genuinely a brilliant first session. You can always build from there — and you will.
End before anyone hits their limit. Separate them gently while things are still going well, then give each pet their own space with something familiar nearby.
Good to know: Always wrap up the session before either pet shows signs of stress. Ending on a quiet note isn’t giving up — it’s exactly what a successful introduction looks like.
These early moments set the tone for everything that follows. The calmer and shorter each session feels right now, the quicker trust has a chance to grow between them.
Why Your Kitten Needs an Escape Route and a Dog-Free Zone
One of the most important parts of learning how to introduce a kitten to a dog is making sure your kitten always has somewhere safe to go. Escape routes and dog-free zones are not nice extras to think about later. They are a core part of the plan from day one.
If a kitten feels cornered, even a calm kitten and dog introduction can go off track quickly. Stress rises, confidence drops, and your kitten may hiss, swat, or freeze. Those early moments matter. When your kitten knows it can step away, it is far more likely to stay curious and relaxed instead of frightened.
The easiest way to set this up is to give your kitten more than one retreat option around the house. That might look like:
Baby gates with a cat-sized gap or low perch nearby. Your kitten can pass through or hop over, while your dog stays on the other side.
Cat trees, window perches, or shelving. Height helps kittens feel secure. From up high, they can watch what is going on without feeling pressured to interact.
A dedicated kitten room. In the early days, this can be a spare room or quiet corner with the door gated off. It gives your kitten a place to eat, nap, use the litter tray, and properly switch off.
A covered bed or crate left open. Some kittens love a small, cosy hideaway, especially after a busy introduction session.
Think about the route too, not just the resting spot. If your kitten jumps down from a shelf, can it get to safety without running past the dog? Can it move from one room to another without feeling trapped? These small details make introducing cats and dogs much smoother in real life.
Your kitten should always be able to remove itself from the interaction. That sense of choice is what builds confidence. Over time, a kitten that feels safe enough to retreat will usually feel safe enough to come back, sniff, observe, and eventually settle beside the dog on its own terms.
What Good Progress Looks Like — and When to Slow Down
Progress when introducing a kitten to a dog rarely follows a straight line. Some days feel like a real breakthrough. Others, it might seem like you’re back to square one. That’s completely normal — and knowing what to watch for means you can respond calmly rather than second-guessing yourself.
Signs the Introduction Is Going Well
Your dog glances at the kitten and looks away, showing curiosity rather than fixation
Both animals have loose, relaxed body posture when they’re in the same room together
Your kitten approaches the barrier or shared space with interest, rather than bolting
Your dog settles down and rests while the kitten moves around nearby
Both animals are eating, playing, and sleeping as normal, without signs of sustained stress
Signs You Need to Slow Down
Your dog is stalking, staring intensely, or can’t be redirected away from the kitten
Either animal freezes repeatedly when the other appears
Your kitten is hissing, spitting, or spending most of their time hiding rather than exploring
Your dog is barking, lunging, or whining in a focused, persistent way
Stress behaviours are creeping in regularly — think panting, pacing, or a change in appetite
A gentle reminder: Spotting a warning sign isn’t a failure. Stepping back a stage is exactly the right call. One slower day now saves a lot of stress further down the line.
Even the most experienced pet parents find that introducing a kitten to a dog takes longer than they expected. The key is staying observant and trusting what you’re seeing in front of you. Understanding your dog’s body language is one of the most valuable skills you can bring to this process — it helps you read the room early and respond before small moments of tension have a chance to grow.
Settling Into Everyday Life: Building a Routine They Can Both Live With
Once the early introductions are behind you, the real magic starts to happen in the everyday moments. Building a predictable routine is one of the kindest things you can do for both your dog and your new kitten — consistency helps anxious animals relax, and gives confident ones the structure to thrive.
Start with mealtimes. Feed them separately, in their own spaces, at the same times each day. It removes tension around food and helps both pets associate mealtimes with calm rather than competition. As trust builds, you can gradually move their feeding spots closer together — but there’s genuinely no rush.
Enrichment matters more than people realise. A bored dog is far more likely to fixate on the kitten, so make sure yours is getting enough exercise, mental stimulation, and quality time with you. A well-exercised dog is simply easier to manage around a curious new housemate. The same logic applies to your kitten. A good play session before they share a space can take the edge off for both of them.
Keep noticing and reinforcing the positive moments. When your dog settles calmly nearby, acknowledge it. When your kitten starts exploring without darting for cover, that’s real progress — even if it looks small. Those little wins add up faster than you’d expect.
Supervision doesn’t need to be constant forever, but in those first few weeks it’s worth staying present when they share a room. As you see them both relax, you can start stepping back.
Introducing a kitten to a dog well takes patience, but a thoughtful routine makes it so much easier to get there. Much like settling a new puppy into your home, the time you invest in those early weeks builds the foundation for something that genuinely lasts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for a dog to get used to a kitten?
It depends on your dog’s temperament and the pace of the introduction, so there isn’t a fixed timeline. Some dogs settle quickly, while others need a much slower approach, especially if they’re excitable or have a strong prey drive. Calm, short, supervised sessions usually lead to better long-term progress.
How do I tell if my dog wants to eat my kitten?
Watch for intense staring, stalking, barking, lunging, or a level of fixation you can’t easily interrupt. A dog who is coping well will look relaxed, stay curious without locking on, and settle while the kitten moves nearby. If your dog can’t disengage, slow everything down and add more distance.
How long does it take for a cat to get used to a new dog?
There isn’t a set timeline, because each kitten or cat settles at their own pace. Confidence tends to grow more smoothly when they have a safe room, escape routes, and short, calm introductions on their own terms. Steady, low-pressure progress matters far more than trying to rush a friendship.
Summer with a dog means making a hundred small decisions about how to keep them comfortable, and knowing where to start with the best cooling products for dogs is genuinely half the job done. This guide covers everything from cooling mats and breathable beds to wearable options for walks, frozen treats that double as enrichment, and simple tips for reading your dog’s signals in the heat. Think of it as a practical summer toolkit built around how your dog actually lives, not just a list of things that exist.
Best cooling products for dogs: what actually helps on hot days
When summer arrives, keeping your dog comfortable becomes something you think about constantly. The paddling pool comes out, walks shift to early mornings, and you find yourself eyeing up every cooling product on the market. With so many options out there, though, it can be genuinely hard to know what will actually help your dog.
This roundup covers the best cooling products for dogs across every situation: lazy days at home, warm-weather walks, post-exercise wind-downs, and everything in between. Whether your dog is a sprawler who claims the entire living room floor, a velcro dog who insists on being by your side no matter the temperature, or a food-motivated soul who’d do anything for a frozen treat, there’s something here that fits.
When pulling this together, a few things kept coming back as what really matters: how comfortable your dog will actually find a product, how easy it is to use day to day, whether it travels well, and crucially, whether it suits how your dog naturally moves and rests. A dog cooling vest is brilliant for some dogs and completely ignored by others. A cooling mat can be a genuine game-changer or something to sniff once and walk away from.
Knowing your dog is genuinely half the battle here. A whippet who drapes herself across cool tiles needs something different from a retriever who runs hot and still wants to be outside at noon.
If you’re also thinking about where your dog sleeps day to day, our guide on how to pick a dog bed is a great place to start.
Cooling mats, beds and chill-out spots for dogs who love to sprawl
For dogs who belly-flop onto the floor the second they’re back from a walk, a cooler place to rest can make summer much more comfortable. When you’re choosing the best cooling products for dogs, start with where they naturally settle. If your dog naps in the kitchen, by the back door, or in a shady garden corner, that’s where a cooling setup will actually earn its keep.
Gel-filled cooling mat: A classic cooling mat for dogs because it’s easy, pressure-activated, and ready whenever your dog needs it. Best for: quick post-walk cool-downs on warm indoor floors.
Elevated mesh bed: Lifting your dog off patios, decking, or stuffy floors helps air circulate underneath them. Best for: garden lounging or warmer rooms upstairs.
Breathable dog cooling bed: A cushioned option suits dogs who don’t love the firmer feel of a mat. Look for breathable fill and washable covers for everyday summer use. Best for: longer naps and overnight sleeping.
Dog crate with cosy calming bed: If your dog likes a den-like space, this Lords & Labradors crate-and-bed setup can work well as a calm rest spot in a cooler part of the house. It’s less about active cooling and more about giving your dog somewhere settled and shaded to switch off after time outside. Best for: dogs who relax better in their own quiet corner.
Waterproof cooling mat with non-slip base: Handy for outdoor use because it stays put better on smooth surfaces. Best for: shaded patio or decking time.
A few simple summer dog cooling tips make these products work better. Keep beds and mats out of direct sun, offer them in the spots your dog already chooses, and pair them with fresh water nearby. Even the best dog cooling products won’t help much if they’re placed in a baking conservatory or a patch of afternoon sun.
Cooling coats, vests and bandanas for walks in warm weather
For dogs who still want their walk no matter the weather, wearable cooling gear can make a real difference. Whether it’s a determined Labrador pulling towards the park or a Frenchie who absolutely insists on their morning route, the right kit helps them stay comfortable without cutting things short. These products work hardest during heatwaves, midday outings, or any time your dog is already panting before you’ve reached the end of the street.
Product Type
Best For
How It Works
Key Benefit
Cooling coat
Active, larger breeds on longer walks
Soaked in water, cools through evaporation
Covers a larger surface area for sustained cooling
Cooling vest
Brachycephalic breeds like Bulldogs and Pugs
Lightweight fit around the chest and torso
Less restrictive, easier breathing for flat-faced dogs
Cooling bandana
Dogs that overheat quickly or dislike full body coverage
Wet fabric around the neck cools blood vessels
Simple, low-fuss option for mild heat or shorter outings
A few tips to get the most out of wearable cooling products:
Pre-soak coats and bandanas in cold water before you leave the house
Avoid peak sun hours where you can, typically 11am to 3pm in summer
Check the fit as you go — wet fabric can shift and rub more than you’d expect
Top up with water on longer walks if panting starts to pick up
Wearable coolers work best as part of a wider summer routine rather than a standalone solution. If you’re building out your dog’s warm weather kit, browse dog coats and cooling wear at Lords & Labradors to find something that suits your dog’s size and shape.
Frozen treats, lick mats and water-first products that help dogs cool from the inside out
Some of the easiest summer wins are the ones you can prep in a few minutes and use every day. Frozen treats, lick mats, and water-first feeders can help your dog enjoy small amounts of moisture or chilled food gradually, while also giving them something soothing to focus on when it is too warm for much activity. If you are putting together the best cooling products for dogs, these simple options deserve a place in the mix.
Freeze-filled Kongs: Stuff with wet food, mashed banana, or a dog-safe peanut butter and pop in the freezer for a longer-lasting chew.
Lick mats with yogurt or bone broth: Spread a thin layer and freeze for a calming activity that slows licking and keeps busy minds occupied.
Dog-safe ice cube treats: Freeze diluted low-salt broth or fruit puree in small moulds for easy, mess-light snacks.
Frozen enrichment feeders: Fill puzzle toys and freeze them to add a bit of mental stimulation during the hottest part of the day.
Hydration toppers: A spoonful of water-rich topper or a splash of low-sodium broth over dinner can tempt fussy dogs to take in a little more fluid.
Chilled fruit pieces: Watermelon, cucumber, and blueberries are easy favourites for many dogs.
Good to know: Frozen treats are best thought of as a gentle way to offer cooling foods and extra moisture little by little, rather than a replacement for fresh drinking water.
What we love about these ideas is how practical they are. They cool, distract, and settle your dog at the same time, which is a lifesaver on sticky afternoons. If you want more enrichment ideas, take a look at the dog toys at Lords & Labradors for freezer-friendly options that work well through summer.
How to time walks, spot overheating and choose the right cooling product
Getting the timing right makes just as much difference as anything you put in your basket. In August, aim to walk before 8am or after 7pm, once the pavement has had a chance to cool down. Not sure if it’s safe? Press the back of your hand to the ground for seven seconds. If it’s uncomfortable for you, it’s too hot for your dog’s paws.
Know the signs that mean it’s time to stop. Heavy, rapid panting, excessive drooling, stumbling, glazed eyes, or a sudden reluctance to keep moving are all red flags. Spot more than one together and act quickly: get them into shade, offer small sips of water, and apply cool (not icy) water to their paws, belly and neck. If they don’t come round within a few minutes, call your vet.
Choosing the right cooling product doesn’t have to be complicated. Think about where and how your dog struggles most with the heat. A dog who sprawls out between walks will get the most from a cooling mat or dog cooling bed, especially older dogs or those with joint issues who already love a good lie-down. For dogs who overheat on the move, a dog cooling vest or bandana offers real relief while they’re actually out and about. Smaller dogs and puppies usually do better with lighter wearables and regular water breaks rather than bulkier gear.
Coat type is worth factoring in too. Thick or double-coated breeds trap heat more readily, so combining a cooling vest with a frozen treat after the walk is a genuinely effective pairing. Short-coated dogs regulate a little more easily, but they still need consistent access to shade and fresh water throughout the day.
If you’re unsure about sizing for any wearable, our dog drying coat size guide uses the same measurements and is a straightforward place to start.
The best cooling products for dogs are simply the ones that fit how your dog actually lives. A little observation goes a long way.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best thing to cool a dog?
The best thing depends on when your dog struggles most. For resting at home, a cooling mat, elevated bed or breathable cooling bed usually helps most; for walks, a soaked cooling vest or bandana works better. Fresh water, shade and cooler walk times make every option more effective.
What is the best cooling food for dogs?
The best cooling foods for dogs are simple frozen, water-rich treats that add moisture little by little. Good options include freeze-filled Kongs, frozen lick mats with yogurt or bone broth, dog-safe ice treats, and chilled watermelon, cucumber or blueberries alongside plenty of fresh drinking water.
How do I cool my dog off without AC?
You can cool a dog without AC by moving them into shade, offering small sips of water, and using cool resting spots like a cooling mat, elevated bed or breathable bed in the part of the house they already choose. Frozen treats, wet bandanas and avoiding hot walk times help too.
That soft, rhythmic pawing your cat does just before they curl up and drift off is one of those behaviours that’s easy to love but harder to explain. In this article, we’ll walk you through why do cats knead before sleeping, what it says about how your cat is feeling, and when it’s worth keeping a closer eye on things. We’ll also share a few simple ways to make the whole bedtime ritual cosier and more comfortable for both of you.
Why cats knead before sleeping
If you’ve ever watched your cat rhythmically push their paws into a blanket, your lap, or a soft cushion just before curling up, you’ve witnessed one of the most endearing things cats do. It’s called kneading — and if you’ve heard it referred to as “making biscuits,” you’ll immediately understand why.
So why do cats knead before sleeping specifically? The short answer: it’s deeply tied to comfort and the physical ritual of winding down. As your cat shifts into sleep mode, their body starts signalling that it’s time to feel safe and settled. Kneading is part of that signal. It’s rhythmic, self-soothing, almost meditative.
You’ll usually notice it happening on soft surfaces — your favourite jumper, a cosy throw, or a well-loved cat bed. That softness isn’t incidental. It triggers something instinctive that tells your cat this is the right place to rest.
Cat kneading meaning does shift depending on the situation, but in a pre-sleep context it’s almost always a sign of contentment. Your cat isn’t unsettled or confused. They’re doing exactly what a happy, comfortable cat does when they feel truly at home — and honestly, once you understand that, it’s hard not to find it completely charming.
The kittenhood instinct cats never quite outgrow
Most cats knead before they drift off, and the habit usually starts right back in kittenhood. Newborn kittens press their paws against their mother’s belly to help stimulate milk flow, and that gentle, repetitive motion becomes wrapped up in some of their earliest feelings of warmth, safety, and being cared for.
That is a big part of why cats knead before sleeping as adults. It is not always about one single trigger. For many cats, it is a soothing routine that links sleep with comfort and security.
Here is why that early instinct often sticks around:
Self-soothing: the steady, rhythmic motion can help a cat relax, especially when they are getting ready to settle for the night
Recreating early security: kneading can bring back that sense of closeness and reassurance they felt as kittens
Winding down for sleep: just like circling before lying down, kneading can become part of a familiar bedtime ritual
Soft textures encourage it: cosy, plush spots often bring out the behaviour more than firm surfaces, which is why many cats love a soft cat blanket before bed
Bonding with you: if your cat kneads on your lap, chest, or blanket, it is often a sign they feel deeply safe in your company
So if you have ever wondered, “why does my cat knead me right before falling asleep?”, the answer often comes back to comfort, memory, and instinct. Cat kneading meaning can be layered, but before sleep it is very often a quiet little sign that your cat feels secure, settled, and completely at home.
Comfort, scent marking, and making the perfect sleep spot
If you’ve ever caught yourself wondering why cats knead before sleeping, the honest answer is that it’s rarely just one thing. When your cat works away at your duvet, kneads a soft blanket into just the right shape, or spends a solid minute pressing at your lap before finally settling, they’re doing several things at once. It’s self-soothing, nest-building, and a quiet little territorial claim on their favourite spot, all bundled into one rhythmic, deeply satisfying routine.
Here’s what’s really going on during those pre-sleep biscuit-making sessions:
Instinctive nest-building. Cats are hardwired to shape a surface before lying down on it. It’s a throwback to wild ancestors who’d pat down grass or leaves to create a safe, comfortable resting place — and that instinct hasn’t gone anywhere.
Stress relief and self-soothing. The repetitive motion is genuinely calming. At its core, cat kneading is often simply a cat winding down and regulating their own emotions after a long, exhausting day of napping and quietly judging you.
Scent marking their space. Cats have scent glands in their paws, so every knead leaves a subtle “this is mine” message behind. It’s exactly why they return to the same blanket, the same cushion, the same corner of your lap, night after night.
A sign they feel safe. When your cat makes biscuits on you or right beside you, they’re completely relaxed and at home. That’s worth appreciating.
Together, these behaviours are your cat’s version of pulling back the duvet and fluffing the pillows. Giving them a dedicated cat blanket to knead and scent-mark can work beautifully here — something soft that becomes entirely, unmistakably theirs.
When kneading is completely normal — and when to pay closer attention
For most cats, kneading before sleeping is as routine as a human fluffing their pillow — one of their most natural, self-soothing habits, and rarely anything to worry about.
Normal Kneading Behaviour
Signs Worth Monitoring
Rhythmic, relaxed pawing on bedding or your lap
Frantic or compulsive kneading that doesn’t settle
Quiet purring or soft trilling
Vocalising with distress, whimpering, or growling
Loose, relaxed body posture
Stiff limbs, hunched back, or visible tension
Kneading on soft, supportive surfaces
Repeatedly kneading on hard or unsuitable surfaces
Consistent, occasional frequency
A sudden increase or complete stop in kneading habits
A few things worth mentioning to your vet:
Kneading paired with persistent restlessness or an inability to settle
Skin irritation, hair loss, or soreness around the paws from over-kneading
A sudden change in kneading behaviour with no obvious cause
Kneading accompanied by excessive vocalising or signs of pain
The reassuring truth is that the vast majority of pre-sleep kneading simply means your cat feels safe and comfortable. If they’re obsessively pawing at a hard or scratchy surface, the surface is usually the problem, not the behaviour itself. Cats instinctively seek out something soft and secure to knead into, and when they find it, they tend to settle more quickly and calmly. Something like the Sleepy Burrows Calming Bed is designed with exactly that in mind — giving them the kind of cosy, enveloping surface that makes the whole bedtime ritual feel just right.
How to make kneading time safer and more cosy for both of you
A few small tweaks can make kneading time much more enjoyable for everyone involved — claws and all.
Start with regular claw trims. It doesn’t have to be a big deal. Little and often works well, and most cats tolerate it far better once it becomes part of the routine. Blunter claws mean you can actually enjoy those slow, rhythmic presses without quietly bracing for the moment your cat finds a thin patch of blanket.
Speaking of blankets, giving your cat their own dedicated kneading spot makes a genuine difference. A thick, soft layer they can claim as their own protects your lap, your sofa, and your sanity. If your cat likes to knead before settling down, a plush bed gives them something satisfying to sink into. The Cornell Feline Health Center notes that cats like to seek out warm places to rest, so having a cosy spot ready after a kneading session is always worth it. Our High Wall Boucle Bed for Cats fits the bill beautifully — soft texture, snug high sides, and the kind of enclosed feel cats tend to gravitate towards.
Ultimately, cat kneading before sleeping is one of those small, quiet habits that says something rather lovely: your cat feels safe, settled, and completely at home with you. A few claw marks on the blanket is a pretty fair trade for that.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are cats happy when they knead?
Yes — when cats knead before sleeping, it’s usually a strong sign they feel happy, safe, and comfortable. The motion is soothing, often linked to kittenhood, and commonly shows up as part of a relaxed bedtime routine on soft blankets, beds, or even your lap.
Should you pet a cat while kneading?
Yes, if your cat seems relaxed and enjoys it, gentle petting can fit naturally into kneading time. Kneading before sleep usually means your cat feels safe and settled, so soft strokes can add to that cosy moment — just pay attention to their body language and let them set the pace.
Getting the right fit for your dog’s crate makes a bigger difference than most people realise, and knowing how to choose the right size dog crate is simpler than it looks once you have a few key numbers to hand. This guide walks you through measuring your dog properly, planning ahead for a growing puppy, and thinking about how the crate will fit into your everyday life. You’ll also find advice on the extras that help a crate feel like a proper den rather than just a box your dog happens to sleep in.
How to choose the right size dog crate without second-guessing yourself
Choosing the right crate size comes down to one simple idea: your dog needs enough room to stand up, turn around, and stretch out comfortably — but not so much space that it stops feeling like a cosy den and starts feeling like a draughty hallway.
That balance matters more than most people expect. A crate that’s too large can leave a dog feeling unsettled, particularly during those early weeks of getting used to it. Dogs are naturally drawn to snug, enclosed spaces, and a well-fitted crate tends to feel far more reassuring than one with room to spare.
The most common mistake? Sizing by breed name alone. A “Labrador-sized” crate sounds like it should cover it, but two Labs can look completely different in build. A lean working type and a stockier show dog might need very different dimensions. So before you start comparing products, get your dog’s actual measurements: length from nose to tail, and height from the floor to the top of their head when standing. Those two numbers will do most of the work for you.
The other key decision is whether you’re buying for a puppy or a fully grown dog. Puppies grow quickly — sometimes faster than you’d think — so crate sizing for a puppy involves a little more forward planning than sizing for an adult.
Get clear on those two things first: your dog’s measurements and their life stage. Once you have both, the rest of the decision becomes much more straightforward. Our dog crate sets are a great place to start browsing once you’ve got your numbers to hand.
Start with your dog’s measurements, not the breed label
Breed labels are a helpful starting point, but they’re not reliable enough to base a purchase on. A Cocker Spaniel can come in wildly different shapes and sizes depending on their lineage and build, and the same goes for almost every breed. Getting your dog’s actual measurements is the only way to feel genuinely confident about how to choose the right size dog crate.
Here’s how to do it properly:
Body length: Measure from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail (not the tip). This gives you the minimum internal length the crate needs to be.
Standing height: Measure from the floor to the top of the head or ears while your dog stands naturally. This tells you how tall the crate needs to be.
Natural posture: Notice whether your dog stands tall and upright or carries themselves low and compact. Two dogs with identical measurements can still need slightly different headroom depending on how they naturally hold themselves.
A note on weight: Useful as a rough guide, but never the whole story. Two 30kg Labradors can easily need different crate sizes based on build and bone structure alone.
Once you have your dog’s measurements, add around 10cm to both figures. Your dog should be able to stand up, turn around, and stretch out comfortably without brushing the sides. That’s the sweet spot. If you’re still finding your feet with crates generally, our introduction to dog crates is a great place to start before you buy.
Getting the fit right for a puppy who’s still growing
Figuring out what size crate to buy for a puppy is one of the trickier parts of those early weeks. You want something that fits them now without being so roomy it sets back toilet training, but you also don’t want to find yourself buying a second crate six months down the line. The good news is you don’t have to.
A crate with a divider panel is the most practical solution for a growing pup. Start with the panel positioned to give your puppy just enough room to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, then gradually move it back as they grow. The space stays snug and den-like throughout, without you having to start from scratch.
A few things worth keeping in mind as you work out the right crate sizing for your dog:
Base your crate choice on your breed’s expected adult measurements, then work backwards
Measure your puppy every two to three weeks, particularly during fast growth phases
Adjust the divider when they start looking cramped or can no longer stretch out fully
Resist jumping up a size too soon — a crate that feels vast rarely feels safe to a young dog
If your pup is a mix, ask your vet for a realistic adult size estimate rather than guessing
Those in-between months go quickly, and a bit of forward planning makes the whole thing far less stressful. Pairing a well-sized crate with a grow-with-me puppy bed means the sleeping space keeps pace with your pup too, so nothing ever feels too big or too sparse along the way.
Choose the crate size for how you’ll actually use it day to day
Knowing how to choose the right size dog crate isn’t just about measuring your dog from nose to tail. Where the crate will live and what you’ll actually use it for each day shapes the decision just as much as the numbers do.
Overnight sleeping. For nighttime use, a snug, den-like fit works best. A crate that’s too roomy can feel unsettling rather than secure, especially for dogs who take a while to wind down.
Toilet training a puppy. Keep it cosy. Too much space and a puppy may decide one end is the bathroom. Crate sizing for dogs in training works best when there’s just enough room to stand, turn, and lie down comfortably.
Quiet time or a safe retreat. If the crate doubles as your dog’s go-to calm spot throughout the day, a little extra room to stretch out is a genuinely kind choice.
Car travel. Consider boot space and how often the crate needs moving. A lightweight, collapsible option will usually serve you better than a heavier everyday crate.
A permanent spot in a shared living space. Here, aesthetics matter alongside fit. You want something that looks as good in your home as it feels for your dog.
Think through your typical week before you decide. Browse the Lords & Labradors crate collection to find options designed around how real dogs and families actually live.
Don’t forget the extras that make the crate feel right
Once you’ve settled on the right crate size, what you put inside it matters just as much as the dimensions themselves. The right extras can turn a plain wire box into somewhere your dog genuinely wants to spend time — but bulky or mismatched accessories can eat into the floor space you carefully measured. It’s worth thinking about each one before you buy.
Here’s what to keep in mind:
A well-fitted bed or mattress gives your dog a comfortable surface without bunching up against the sides. Flat, supportive options tend to work better than thick, oversized cushions that reduce usable space.
A crate cover cuts out visual stimulation and creates a darker, den-like feel that helps many dogs settle more quickly — especially useful in busier households where there’s always something going on.
A bumper set lines the inner walls with soft padding, which is particularly helpful for puppies who tend to press or lean against the sides. It adds warmth and cosiness without dramatically reducing floor space.
Our cosy crate bed set brings all of these elements together in one thoughtfully designed package, so everything fits and works as it should from day one.
The goal is a snug interior that feels calm and safe — not a cramped one. Get both the crate size and the setup right, and your dog has the best possible foundation for settling in happily.
How to make the final choice with confidence
When you’ve done the measuring, thought about your dog’s daily routine, and browsed your options, the final choice usually comes down to a handful of simple things. Run through this quick checklist before you commit.
Start with your dog’s measurements. Nose to tail and floor to the top of the ears are your two non-negotiables. Add around 10cm to each, and you’ve got the internal crate dimensions you’re actually shopping for.
Check the fit feels cosy, not cavernous. Dogs who love to curl up in a corner often feel more settled in a snugger space. If you’re buying ahead for a growing puppy, use a divider to keep things proportional now and simply move it back as they fill out.
Think about where the crate will live. A crate destined for the car boot has different needs to one tucked into a bedroom corner. Measure doorways, check your boot space, and picture where this crate will actually spend its time.
Don’t overlook the finishing touches. A well-chosen crate cover can turn even a slightly generous-sized crate into a proper den. Take a look at the Lords and Labradors crate cover collection to find something that suits both your crate and your home.
Choosing the right size dog crate really does come down to measuring carefully, thinking practically, and trusting what you already know about your dog. You know them best.
At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog. Luxury dog crates...
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At Lords & Labradors, we specialise in dog crate bedding and accessories. Our dog crate cover and bed sets are available in a stylish choice of fabrics and come in a variety of sizes. These sets create the ultimate comfort spot for your puppy or adult dog.
Luxury dog crates
All our deluxe dog crates are made from pet-safe metal and feature removable trays to make them practical and super easy to clean. With sizes ranging from small to XXL, there’s a dog crate set to suit all breeds. Crates are essential when it comes to house training your new puppy. We always suggest buying a larger size dog crate and bed for your puppy so they can grow into it, saving you from having to purchase a new crate when they’re older.
Luxury crate bedding
Our luxury bedding is hand-crafted and designed to the highest quality, appearing both practical and stylish. Bumpers sit around the edge of the crate cushion to provide a super-soft wall of comfort for your pooch. All our bumpers and cushions feature waterproof linings in case of any accidents. It’s recommended to choose a dog crate with a cover – they’ll provide your draughty, bare cage with a fresh new look and offer some privacy for your dog too. They’re particularly great for helping young puppies settle into their night-time routines and offer nervous dogs an extra feeling of security.
Purchase your dog crate set online today
Treat your four-legged friend to one of our stylish dog crate, cover, bedding and bumper sets by browsing our online range today. If you’re struggling to decide which one would be perfect for your pooch, contact our team today who will be more than happy to help. You’ll have 28 days to return your product if you’re unhappy with it for any reason. Our Lords & Labradors items also come with a 365-day quality guarantee, so it’s easy to see why we’ve received so many positive reviews. We also offer free delivery on all orders over £75. Browse the range and order your dog crate set today.
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