How To Choose The Right Collar For Your Dog
03.04.23 April 03, 2023 FAQs

How To Choose The Right Collar For Your Dog

With the weather finally starting to get a little brighter and warmer, if you’re anything like us you’ll be looking to go on some longer dog walks and days out with your furry friends. Collars are an essential for any trip out with your dog but we know that choosing the right collar for your dog can be overwhelming. In this guide, we’ll discuss how to pick the perfect dog collar, how to fit a collar correctly and what the correct tightness should be.   Does My Dog Need A Collar? It’s now a legal requirement for all dogs to wear a collar when they’re in public places with an ID tag attached, so whilst you may not choose to put one on your dog at home they will need one for whilst you’re out and about even if you prefer to walk them on a harness.   How To Choose A Dog Collar When choosing a dog collar there are a few factors to consider Material Style Your dog’s breed Purpose Which material dog collar to choose The main materials dog collars are fabric collars which are usually made from nylon or polyester, leather or faux-leather dog collars, metal dog collars and rope dog collars. Which material you pick will depend on your dog. Nylon collars are lightweight, easy to clean and often come in fun designs, where as leather collars are more durable and often softer on your dog’s coat. If you’re looking for a leather dog collar, our leather dog collar guide rounds up our leather collars and talks you through which one to pick for your dog.   Which style of dog collar to pick Dog collars also come in different styles, some fasten with a buckle whereas others use a clip. The choice of fastening tends to be personal preference, buckles tend to be a bit longer lasting and more sturdy, whereas clips are quicker and easier to get on and off your dog.  The most popular style of collar is a flat collar which sits flush with your dog’s neck. The flat surface helps to distribute pressure evenly on your dog’s neck so is a good choice if your dog likes to pull. Rounded collars, which are usually leather or rope, are great for dogs with long coats or who get irritated by traditional flat collars, the round shape is more gentle on their necks. There are also collars which have been designed especially for hounds and whippets. These are thicker at the back of the collar and fasten with a buckle at the front. They have been designed especially for long necked breeds to provide comfort and support whilst they’re walking Slip Leads, as the name suggests, are easy to slip on and off your dogs. These act as both a collar and a lead and will simply slide over your dog’s head. They’re usually used for gun dogs, however if your dog has a tendency to pull then these might not be the best choice for them as the collar size will tighten as they pull which can put unnecessary pressure on their neck.   Which dog collar to pick for my breed of dog As we mentioned above the breed of your dog can also influence the style of collar you pick, with hound collars being better for long necked breeds and round collars better for long haired breeds. If you have a smaller breed or a puppy we recommend a lighter weight collar like a nylon collar so that it’s not too heavy for them and putting extra pressure and weight on their neck. Whereas for larger dogs you probably are better looking at something more durable such as a leather collar as they will naturally put more stress on the collar if they pull on it at all and are likely to want the support that a leather collar offers.   Dog Collar Purpose Hopefully the above has given you a little more information about what collar to pick for your dog but the last thing to think about is purpose. If you’re just using your dog’s collar to hold their ID tag and are planning to either let them walk off lead or use a harness to walk them, then you’re probably okay with a lightweight collar, perhaps a nylon collar. Whereas if you’re going to use the collar to attach your dog’s lead to then maybe a leather dog collar may be more fit for purpose.    How To Fit A Dog Collar Correctly Once you’ve decided what style and material of collar you want all that’s left to do is pick the right size collar - don’t worry we know that’s easier said that done which is why we have created a guide to help you measure a dog collar. We’ve put the basics below but if you’re looking for a little more information check out our handy guide here  Get a fabric tape measure and place it round your dog’s neck where their collar would usually sit Place two fingers between the measuring tape and your dog’s neck Take the measurement and add one to two inches Use this measurement when looking at size guides for your dog’s collar - if your dog sits at the top of one size range and the bottom of another we recommend picking the one they sit at the bottom of.     How to pick a size of collar for a puppy In the first few months of your puppies lives they’re likely to go through a few collars as they grow so quickly. When it comes to measuring your puppy for a collar follow the same steps as above but keep in mind how quickly they grow in those first few weeks. As we mentioned above we usually recommend lightweight nylon collars for puppies, these are usually super adjustable so are perfect for growing puppies. Getting your puppy used to wearing a collar even before they go out for their first walk can really help them, their first walk will be daunting for them so by getting them used to a collar as early as possible will help it be a little less scary for them. Many breeders use whelping collars, which are brightly coloured lightweight collars, to help identify the pups in the first few weeks but are also great for getting puppies used to wearing collars.   What Is The Correct Tightness Of Dog Collar Knowing how tight to make your dog’s collar can be tricky sometimes, it needs to be tight enough so that they can’t easily escape it but loose enough that it’s not hurting their neck. The general rule of thumb is make sure that you can fit two fingers between your dog’s collar and their neck. We hope this guide has helped you pick the perfect collar for your pooch, don’t forget to check out our range of designer dog collars - we’re sure to have something to suit your dog.

By Megan Willis

Read more

With the weather finally starting to get a little brighter and warmer, if you’re anything like us you’ll be looking to go on some longer dog walks and days out with your furry friends. Collars are an essential for any trip out with your dog but we know that choosing the right collar for your dog can be overwhelming. In this guide, we’ll discuss how to pick the perfect dog collar, how to fit a collar correctly and what the correct tightness should be.

 

Does My Dog Need A Collar?

It’s now a legal requirement for all dogs to wear a collar when they’re in public places with an ID tag attached, so whilst you may not choose to put one on your dog at home they will need one for whilst you’re out and about even if you prefer to walk them on a harness.

 

How To Choose A Dog Collar

When choosing a dog collar there are a few factors to consider

  1. Material
  2. Style
  3. Your dog’s breed
  4. Purpose

Which material dog collar to choose

The main materials dog collars are fabric collars which are usually made from nylon or polyester, leather or faux-leather dog collars, metal dog collars and rope dog collars. Which material you pick will depend on your dog. Nylon collars are lightweight, easy to clean and often come in fun designs, where as leather collars are more durable and often softer on your dog’s coat. If you’re looking for a leather dog collar, our leather dog collar guide rounds up our leather collars and talks you through which one to pick for your dog.

 

Which style of dog collar to pick

Dog collars also come in different styles, some fasten with a buckle whereas others use a clip. The choice of fastening tends to be personal preference, buckles tend to be a bit longer lasting and more sturdy, whereas clips are quicker and easier to get on and off your dog. 

The most popular style of collar is a flat collar which sits flush with your dog’s neck. The flat surface helps to distribute pressure evenly on your dog’s neck so is a good choice if your dog likes to pull.

Rounded collars, which are usually leather or rope, are great for dogs with long coats or who get irritated by traditional flat collars, the round shape is more gentle on their necks.

There are also collars which have been designed especially for hounds and whippets. These are thicker at the back of the collar and fasten with a buckle at the front. They have been designed especially for long necked breeds to provide comfort and support whilst they’re walking

Slip Leads, as the name suggests, are easy to slip on and off your dogs. These act as both a collar and a lead and will simply slide over your dog’s head. They’re usually used for gun dogs, however if your dog has a tendency to pull then these might not be the best choice for them as the collar size will tighten as they pull which can put unnecessary pressure on their neck.

 

Which dog collar to pick for my breed of dog

As we mentioned above the breed of your dog can also influence the style of collar you pick, with hound collars being better for long necked breeds and round collars better for long haired breeds. If you have a smaller breed or a puppy we recommend a lighter weight collar like a nylon collar so that it’s not too heavy for them and putting extra pressure and weight on their neck. Whereas for larger dogs you probably are better looking at something more durable such as a leather collar as they will naturally put more stress on the collar if they pull on it at all and are likely to want the support that a leather collar offers.

 

Dog Collar Purpose

Hopefully the above has given you a little more information about what collar to pick for your dog but the last thing to think about is purpose. If you’re just using your dog’s collar to hold their ID tag and are planning to either let them walk off lead or use a harness to walk them, then you’re probably okay with a lightweight collar, perhaps a nylon collar. Whereas if you’re going to use the collar to attach your dog’s lead to then maybe a leather dog collar may be more fit for purpose.

  

How To Fit A Dog Collar Correctly

Once you’ve decided what style and material of collar you want all that’s left to do is pick the right size collar - don’t worry we know that’s easier said that done which is why we have created a guide to help you measure a dog collar. We’ve put the basics below but if you’re looking for a little more information check out our handy guide here 

  1. Get a fabric tape measure and place it round your dog’s neck where their collar would usually sit
  2. Place two fingers between the measuring tape and your dog’s neck
  3. Take the measurement and add one to two inches
  4. Use this measurement when looking at size guides for your dog’s collar - if your dog sits at the top of one size range and the bottom of another we recommend picking the one they sit at the bottom of.

 

 

How to pick a size of collar for a puppy

In the first few months of your puppies lives they’re likely to go through a few collars as they grow so quickly. When it comes to measuring your puppy for a collar follow the same steps as above but keep in mind how quickly they grow in those first few weeks.

As we mentioned above we usually recommend lightweight nylon collars for puppies, these are usually super adjustable so are perfect for growing puppies. Getting your puppy used to wearing a collar even before they go out for their first walk can really help them, their first walk will be daunting for them so by getting them used to a collar as early as possible will help it be a little less scary for them.

Many breeders use whelping collars, which are brightly coloured lightweight collars, to help identify the pups in the first few weeks but are also great for getting puppies used to wearing collars.

 

What Is The Correct Tightness Of Dog Collar

Knowing how tight to make your dog’s collar can be tricky sometimes, it needs to be tight enough so that they can’t easily escape it but loose enough that it’s not hurting their neck. The general rule of thumb is make sure that you can fit two fingers between your dog’s collar and their neck.

We hope this guide has helped you pick the perfect collar for your pooch, don’t forget to check out our range of designer dog collars - we’re sure to have something to suit your dog.

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Overheating: Dogs regulate heat very differently to us, and hot pavements can make things worse fast. If your dog stops and lies down alongside excessive panting, drooling, or a desperate search for shade, heat is likely the culprit — and it’s one that always warrants a quick response. Fear or sensory overwhelm: Loud traffic, unfamiliar dogs, or a busy new environment can cause some dogs to shut down completely mid-walk. Look for tucked ears, a low body posture, or a pattern of stopping in the same spot rather than randomly. Pain or physical discomfort: A dog that sits down during a walk and won’t get going again could be dealing with sore paws, joint pain, or something more acute. Limping, flinching, or repeatedly licking one area are all worth taking seriously. Learned behaviour: If lying down has reliably earned your dog a rest, a treat, or a u-turn home, there’s a good chance they’ve figured out it works. This one tends to happen in predictable places, often close to home near the end of a walk. The same behaviour — a dog refusing to walk on the lead and dropping to the ground — can mean very different things depending on context. Paying attention to patterns and timing will tell you far more than the moment itself. What to do in the moment when your dog refuses to move When your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, the first thing to do is take a breath. Pulling, pushing, or getting frustrated rarely helps, and it can actually make things worse. How you handle that standoff moment matters more than you might think. Check for heat or injury first. Feel their paws against the pavement, look for any limping or flinching, and check whether they’re panting more than usual. If something seems physically off, end the walk right there. No destination is worth pushing through pain. Offer water. It sounds simple, but a tired or overheated dog often just needs a drink and a moment to recover. Get into the habit of carrying water on every walk, especially through spring and summer. Look for what might be worrying them. A loud lorry rumbling past, an off-lead dog bounding over, a cluster of rowdy kids — any of these could be the reason your dog stops walking and lies down. If you can spot a trigger, move away from it before asking them to walk on. Try changing direction. A simple about-turn can do a lot. Heading somewhere new often sparks enough curiosity to get them back on their feet without any fuss. Bring out the good stuff. A small piece of chicken or cheese held just ahead of them can be all the encouragement they need. Keep the energy light and positive rather than tense or coaxing. Know when to call it. If your dog is small enough to carry, carry them. If they’re exhausted or overwhelmed, cutting the walk short is the right call, full stop. Dragging them forward doesn’t build confidence — it just erodes trust. A little patience and observation will take you much further than frustration. That said, if your dog regularly flops down mid-walk, it’s worth looking beyond the moment to understand what’s really going on. How to tell if it’s a one-off wobble or a sign something’s wrong Most of the time, when your dog lies down on a walk and refuses to move, it’s nothing to worry about. But knowing what to look for can make all the difference between brushing it off and catching something early. A one-off flop on a warm afternoon, or a puppy who plonks themselves down mid-pavement and loses all interest in moving, is usually harmless. It starts to feel worth a closer look when it keeps happening, appears out of nowhere, or comes alongside physical changes you can’t quite explain. Likely harmless if… It happens once or very occasionally Your dog bounces back quickly and carries on as normal The pavement is hot or the weather is warm Your dog was overexcited before heading out There are no other symptoms Your dog stops and lies down near something interesting — a scent, another dog, a friendly stranger Red flags to watch for Limping, stiffness, or reluctance to put weight on a leg Whimpering or flinching when touched Trembling or shaking that isn’t cold-related Heavy panting without an obvious cause A sudden shift in their usual walk behaviour Repeated refusal across several walks in a row Low energy or lethargy at home too, not just on walks Quick rule of thumb: If the refusal is sudden, keeps repeating, or comes with any physical symptom, treat it as a vet conversation — not a training problem. When you do speak to your vet, it helps to have a rough timeline ready: when it started, how often your dog refuses to walk or lies down mid-route, and anything else you’ve noticed. The more detail you can give them, the easier it is to get to the bottom of it. How to prevent future walk standoffs The good news is that a few small changes can make a real difference to how your dog feels about walks — and how willing they are to keep going. Start with timing. Walking in the cooler hours of the morning or evening during warmer months helps dogs stay comfortable and energised. Midday in summer is often when you’ll see a dog lie down on a walk and refuse to move — not out of stubbornness, but because the pavement is scorching and the air feels thick. For puppies and older dogs, keeping walks age-appropriate matters more than most people realise. Young dogs are still building joints and stamina, and too much too soon leads to tired, reluctant walkers. A solid rule of thumb for puppies is five minutes per month of age, twice a day. Older dogs often do better with shorter, more frequent outings than one long haul. Our guide to exercise across your dog’s life stages is worth a read if you want to tailor things further. It’s also worth checking your gear. A poorly fitted harness or collar can cause enough discomfort to make a dog sit down mid-walk, even if you can’t immediately see why. A well-fitted, comfortable harness removes that barrier before it becomes a habit. Finally, make walks something your dog genuinely looks forward to. Vary your routes, let them sniff freely, and keep a few high-value treats in your pocket. Dogs who find walks rewarding rarely need much convincing to keep moving.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Dog refuses to Walk Certain Directions
    12.06.26 June 12, 2026 Owning a Dog

    Dog refuses to Walk Certain Directions

    Few things throw off a walk quite like a dog who plants their paws and flatly refuses to go the direction you had in mind. If your dog refuses to walk certain directions, there’s nearly always a reason behind it, whether that’s fear, discomfort, or simply a strong opinion about where the good smells are. This guide covers how to tell those causes apart, what you can do to gently build confidence back up, and when it’s worth calling in a vet or behaviourist for extra support. Why your dog suddenly refuses to walk one way If your dog suddenly plants their paws and refuses to move in a certain direction, it can feel completely baffling — especially when they were perfectly happy heading that way last week. But this is rarely stubbornness. Most of the time, your dog is trying to tell you something. Dogs build strong associations with the places they visit, and those associations can form faster than you might expect. A route that takes you past a noisy building site, a garden where a dog charges the fence, or even a spot where something once startled them can quickly become somewhere they’d rather avoid. When your dog stops walking or pulls back on the lead heading a particular way, that’s communication, not defiance. It’s also worth taking seriously. The more often a dog is pushed through something that worries them, the stronger that negative association tends to become. Understanding what’s driving the behaviour, on the other hand, gives you a real chance to actually help. The signals are usually there if you know what to look for: a tucked tail, flattened ears, a sudden reluctance to move forward, or frantic sniffing to avoid making eye contact with whatever’s ahead. These are all your dog’s way of saying “I’m not sure about this.” Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a great starting point if you’d like to get better at reading those cues before we dig into the causes. The most common reasons dogs avoid certain routes There’s almost always a reason when a dog refuses to walk certain directions, even if it isn’t immediately obvious. Dogs can’t tell us what’s wrong, so their behaviour on the lead is often the clearest signal we have. Pinning down the cause is the first step to making walks enjoyable again for both of you. Fear or negative associations. A dog that freezes outside a particular house, digs their paws in near a certain gate, or turns back at the same point every time has often had a bad experience there. It might have been something that only happened once — a sudden loud noise or an unexpected run-in with another dog — but the memory sticks. That reluctance isn’t defiance. It’s self-protection. Stubbornness or personal preference. Some dogs simply have opinions about where they want to go. One that consistently pulls toward home, or always steers for the park and resists anywhere else, is usually showing a preference rather than fear. It’s especially common in dogs who’ve settled into a comfortable routine and aren’t particularly interested in anything that disrupts it. Overstimulation from busy environments. A dog that shuts down near traffic or crowded streets is often overwhelmed, not difficult. The noise, movement, and unpredictability can become genuinely too much to process. Dogs pushed past their threshold may also start barking on walks, which is worth paying attention to as another sign that they’re struggling. Physical pain or discomfort. If your dog slows right down, starts labouring on a slope, or suddenly stops after turning a particular corner, pain could easily be the reason. Rough surfaces, uneven ground, or an underlying joint issue can all make certain routes feel uncomfortable in ways that are easy to miss until you know what to look for. Each of these behaviours is your dog’s way of trying to tell you something. Recognising which pattern fits yours is where the real progress begins. How to tell fear, pain, and simple preferences apart When a dog refuses to walk certain directions, the behaviour usually falls into one of three categories: fear, physical discomfort, or a plain old preference. The good news? Your dog’s body language will often tell you which one you’re dealing with — you just need to know what to look for. Signs it may be fear or anxiety Ears flattened against the head Tail tucked under the body Panting without any physical exertion Freezing mid-walk and refusing to budge Whale eye (whites of the eyes showing) Pulling back hard on the lead Barking or lunging at a specific spot on the route Signs it may be pain or physical discomfort Stopping suddenly at the same point on a familiar route Limping or favouring one leg Reluctance to put weight on a paw Slowing pace noticeably over time Whimpering or vocalising when encouraged to move forward Stiffness after resting, particularly in older dogs Worth knowing: Fear responses are usually triggered by something your dog sees, hears, or smells. Pain responses tend to be consistent, progressive, or tied directly to movement. Simple preferences are a different thing entirely. If your dog enthusiastically pulls toward their favourite sniff spot or drags you down a familiar street with their tail up and body relaxed, that’s not a red flag — that’s just a dog with opinions. But if you’re noticing persistent freezing, any hint of lameness, or a sudden shift in how your dog behaves on walks, it’s worth a vet visit to rule out anything physical before you do anything else. Gentle training steps to rebuild confidence on tricky walks If your dog refuses to walk certain directions, think of confidence-building as lots of tiny wins rather than one big breakthrough. The goal is to help them feel safe enough to choose forward movement again. Keep early walks short and successful. Pick a route your dog already copes with and end before they feel overwhelmed. A calm five-minute outing is far more useful than a stressful twenty-minute one. Reward the choice to move. If your dog stops walking on walks or pulls back on the lead, watch for the smallest brave decision: one step forward, a relaxed glance at the trigger, or choosing to sniff and re-engage. Mark that moment with a treat or warm praise. Start farther away than you think. When a dog won’t walk in one direction, there is usually a point where they still feel okay. That is where training starts. If the post box, corner, or noisy road is too much, move back until their body softens, then build up gradually over several sessions. Make things predictable. Familiar routes, similar walk times, and a steady pace help nervous dogs settle. Once they are moving happily again, you can gently add in new directions. Use comfortable walking kit. A loose lead and a well-fitted harness can reduce pressure and help your dog feel more secure during desensitisation work. If you are reviewing your setup, a padded walking collection is a helpful example of softer, supportive kit. Stay consistent and calm. Your dog does not need perfect walks. They just need regular, low-pressure practice. Desensitisation means exposing your dog to the scary or tricky thing at a level they can cope with, then very slowly increasing the challenge as their confidence grows. When to speak to a vet or behaviourist Sometimes the kindest thing you can do is ask for help. If your dog refuses to walk certain directions and nothing you try seems to be making a difference, it’s a good sign that some expert guidance is in order. Start with your vet, especially if the refusal came on suddenly or out of nowhere. If your dog is also limping, slowing down on walks, or seeming stiff and reluctant at home, pain could easily be the culprit. Conditions like arthritis, soft tissue injuries, or sore paws can be surprisingly easy to miss, and they can look a lot like stubbornness from the outside. A quick health check rules out anything physical before you turn your attention to behaviour. If your vet gives the all-clear but your dog still pulls back on the leash, freezes, or refuses to go a certain way, a qualified behaviourist is your next call. This is particularly important when the avoidance feels emotional — rooted in fear or anxiety — because pushing through those moments without the right guidance can deepen the problem rather than resolve it. Look for someone accredited by the ABTC or APBC who uses positive, reward-based methods. A good behaviourist will work at your dog’s pace, help you understand what’s really going on, and give you a practical plan to move forward. Most dogs do get there with the right support behind them.

    By Adele Busby

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