Introducing animals to each other for the first time can be a stressful experience, especially when they are different species. However, it is important to remember that you should never rush into it, and that a slow introduction that spans over a few days or a week can be the most beneficial way to go. This guide will take you through the things you can do to make the introduction process easier and smoother.
Confinement
When you bring your puppy home, do not introduce them right away. Instead, make sure the cat and the dog are in separate parts of the home where they cannot leave and see each other. Separate rooms tend to work best with the door closed.
Of course, your cat needs to be able to roam, and your puppy needs to be able to explore their new home. The best way to manage this is by alternating which animal is confined. Let your cat out to roam for a few hours before putting it away and releasing the puppy.
This way, they can also get used to each other’s scents. A good way to keep them getting used to the smell of one another is to swap pieces of bedding between the rooms frequently.
Don’t let your puppy paw at the door for the room your cat is in too much. Excessive pawing can cause your cat stress. Distract the puppy with a toy or game as they should not be disciplined for the first two weeks to reinforce positive memories.
Slow Introductions
After a couple of days, you can start to slowly introduce them to each other. Make sure you do this inside your home, as an outdoor location can cause your cat stress. Make sure it is a large room in your home, and one with plenty of space for either one to retreat if they feel threatened.
Try and wear your puppy out a little before the introduction with games, as this can make them calmer for the meeting. You should also have the puppy on a lead so that you have full control of the situation.
It is normal for the cat to hiss and possibly bat the dog. Do not reprimand the cat as this is just fear. It can take a lot of time for a cat to get used to a puppy. If the cat becomes frightened, remove the puppy and leave the introduction for a few days more.
Over time, things will improve, and there will be no aggression from either animal. Good behaviour should be reinforced with praise and treats. The animals will be happy to spend time together in no time at all.
Leaving Them Alone
It should be noted that your cat and puppy should not be left unattended together at any point until they are completely comfortable around each other. Leaving them alone together while you go out can result in fights between the two animals that can lead to injuries being caused.
Try introducing a tall cat tree as a space for your cat to hide and a puppy play pen as a way to contain your puppy.
To Conclude
The process of introduction can be long, and it’s not always easy. The main thing to remember is to keep calm throughout and allow things to happen at their own speed. Never rush the introductory period, and never leave them alone together, not until they are completely comfortable with each other anyway. Your cat and puppy will be best friends in no time at all.
Introducing animals to each other for the first time can be a stressful experience, especially when they are different species. However, it is important to remember that you should never rush into it, and that a slow introduction that spans over a few days or a week can be the most beneficial way to go. This guide will take you through the things you can do to make the introduction process easier and smoother.
Confinement
When you bring your puppy home, do not introduce them right away. Instead, make sure the cat and the dog are in separate parts of the home where they cannot leave and see each other. Separate rooms tend to work best with the door closed.
Of course, your cat needs to be able to roam, and your puppy needs to be able to explore their new home. The best way to manage this is by alternating which animal is confined. Let your cat out to roam for a few hours before putting it away and releasing the puppy.
This way, they can also get used to each other’s scents. A good way to keep them getting used to the smell of one another is to swap pieces of bedding between the rooms frequently.
Don’t let your puppy paw at the door for the room your cat is in too much. Excessive pawing can cause your cat stress. Distract the puppy with a toy or game as they should not be disciplined for the first two weeks to reinforce positive memories.
Slow Introductions
After a couple of days, you can start to slowly introduce them to each other. Make sure you do this inside your home, as an outdoor location can cause your cat stress. Make sure it is a large room in your home, and one with plenty of space for either one to retreat if they feel threatened.
Try and wear your puppy out a little before the introduction with games, as this can make them calmer for the meeting. You should also have the puppy on a lead so that you have full control of the situation.
It is normal for the cat to hiss and possibly bat the dog. Do not reprimand the cat as this is just fear. It can take a lot of time for a cat to get used to a puppy. If the cat becomes frightened, remove the puppy and leave the introduction for a few days more.
Over time, things will improve, and there will be no aggression from either animal. Good behaviour should be reinforced with praise and treats. The animals will be happy to spend time together in no time at all.
Leaving Them Alone
It should be noted that your cat and puppy should not be left unattended together at any point until they are completely comfortable around each other. Leaving them alone together while you go out can result in fights between the two animals that can lead to injuries being caused.
Try introducing a tall cat tree as a space for your cat to hide and a puppy play pen as a way to contain your puppy.
To Conclude
The process of introduction can be long, and it’s not always easy. The main thing to remember is to keep calm throughout and allow things to happen at their own speed. Never rush the introductory period, and never leave them alone together, not until they are completely comfortable with each other anyway. Your cat and puppy will be best friends in no time at all.
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Sore gums, mystery teeth marks on the furniture, a puppy who seems a little off but you can’t quite put your finger on why — puppy teething symptoms have a way of creeping up before you’ve even thought to look for them. In this guide, we’ll walk you through what’s actually happening inside your puppy’s mouth, what the teething timeline looks like, and how to tell normal discomfort from something worth a vet call. You’ll also find some genuinely simple ways to soothe sore gums at home and keep the chewing pointed in the right direction.
What puppy teething symptoms look like in everyday life
Most puppy parents notice something is off before they even think to connect it to teething. The shoes have mysteriously acquired teeth marks, your puppy is mouthing your hands more than usual, and they seem a little out of sorts in general. Sound familiar? Once you know what to look for, the whole picture starts to make sense.
The most obvious sign is a sudden surge in chewing. Everything becomes fair game: furniture corners, skirting boards, your favourite jumper. Alongside this, you might notice your puppy dribbling more than usual or pawing at their mouth. If you gently lift their lip, look for gums that appear a little red or puffy, especially around the spots where new teeth are starting to push through.
Nipping tends to increase too, and it can feel more frantic than playful. This is not your puppy being difficult or defiant. Their gums are genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing brings relief. Giving them appropriate things to gnaw on, like textured puppy toys designed with teething in mind, makes a real difference at this stage.
A fussier mood is also completely normal. Some puppies go off their food for a day or two, sleep more restlessly, or simply seem a little flat compared to their usual bouncy selves. It will pass.
Spotting these puppy teething signs for what they actually are helps you respond with patience rather than frustration. That is better for your puppy, and honestly, better for you too.
When puppy teething starts and when it usually ends
Puppy teething symptoms can feel like they’ve come out of nowhere, but the process actually begins earlier than most people realise. Baby teeth start pushing through from around 3 to 8 weeks of age, and by 12 to 16 weeks, adult teeth begin replacing them. The whole stage typically wraps up by around 6 to 7 months, so as relentless as it feels right now, it really is temporary.
Here’s how the puppy teething timeline usually unfolds:
0 to 3 weeks — Puppies are born without teeth. Gums are soft, and there’s no discomfort yet.
3 to 8 weeks — Baby teeth (also called milk teeth) begin coming through. Most puppies have their full set of 28 by around 8 weeks.
12 to 16 weeks — Adult teeth start pushing through. This is when puppy teething signs tend to become most noticeable, with chewing and drooling ramping up noticeably.
4 to 6 months — Adult teeth continue replacing baby teeth. Don’t be surprised if you find a tiny tooth on the kitchen floor.
6 to 7 months — The full set of 42 adult teeth is usually in place.
Worth knowing: Most puppies have all 42 adult teeth by 6 to 7 months. That’s the finish line, and it will arrive.
How long puppies teethe and how intensely they feel it does vary. Larger breeds sometimes experience more pronounced discomfort, and some puppies are just more sensitive than others. If your pup seems particularly restless or chew-obsessed, that’s usually why.
Getting the right supplies together early makes the whole stage far more manageable. Lords & Labradors’ puppy collection is a great starting point if you’re building your teething toolkit.
Why teething makes puppies chew, bite, and act out
If your puppy seems to be chewing everything in sight, nipping at your hands, or waking you up at odd hours, take a breath — this is not a sign that you’ve got a troublesome pup on your hands. These are classic puppy teething symptoms, and they’re almost always your puppy’s way of telling you their mouth is uncomfortable.
During teething, the gums become inflamed as adult teeth push through the tissue. That pressure and sensitivity is genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing provides just enough counter-pressure to bring some relief. Think of it like a human baby reaching for anything they can gnaw on. Your puppy isn’t acting out — they’re coping.
The most common behavioural signs linked to teething discomfort include:
Chewing furniture, skirting boards, and shoes — anything firm that creates that satisfying counter-pressure
Destroying bedding or soft furnishings, which tends to ramp up at night when there’s nothing else to redirect their attention to
Mouthing or grabbing hands during play, often more persistently than usual
Eating more slowly or briefly going off food because chewing feels sore
Drooling more than normal, thanks to increased saliva production during teething
Seeming restless or unsettled at bedtime, especially during the most intense teething weeks
All of this is temporary. Once you understand it’s physical discomfort driving the behaviour rather than wilfulness, it becomes a lot easier to respond with patience and redirect your puppy calmly.
How to soothe sore gums at home
Once you’ve started recognising the puppy teething symptoms your pup is showing, the focus naturally shifts from spotting the signs to actually making them feel better. The good news? There’s plenty you can do at home, and most of it is simple.
Offer puppy-safe chew toys designed with teething in mind. Softer rubber or nylon options give sore gums something satisfying to work on without causing damage. It’s worth having a few different styles on the go — browse puppy-safe chew toys to find options suited to your pup’s size and chew strength.
Try a briefly chilled damp flannel. Wet a cloth, pop it in the fridge for 20 minutes, then let your puppy gnaw on it. The gentle coolness soothes inflamed gums without the risks that come with frozen items.
Rotate toys regularly. Puppies lose interest quickly, so swapping things out every day or two keeps chewing directed at the right targets rather than your skirting boards.
Stay nearby during chewing sessions. Supervising means you can calmly redirect your pup the moment they switch from their toy to your favourite chair leg — and they will try.
Redirect rather than just remove. When your puppy goes for something off-limits, swap it straight away with an appropriate toy. A firm “no” on its own rarely gets the message across at this age.
What to avoid:
Hard bones or antlers, which can crack sensitive puppy teeth
Frozen solid items like ice cubes, which are too harsh on sore gums
Small objects that could become a choking hazard
Human teething gels, particularly anything containing xylitol, which is toxic to dogs
With the right puppy teething remedies to hand and a little consistency, this phase is genuinely manageable — for your puppy and for your home.
When puppy teething symptoms need a vet check
Most puppy teething symptoms are completely normal, and the vast majority of what you’ll see at home doesn’t need anything more than patience and a good chew toy.
A little blood on a toy? Perfectly expected. The odd wobbly or missing tooth? All part of it. Mild drooling, pink-tinged gums, and a puppy who’s grumpier than usual during peak teething weeks are nothing to panic about.
That said, a few signs are worth watching more closely:
Gums that look very swollen, deeply red, or are bleeding heavily and not settling
A baby tooth that hasn’t fallen out after the adult tooth has already come through
Persistent refusal to eat, even soft or wet food
Breath that smells genuinely foul — not just normal puppy breath, but sharp or rotten
Lethargy, a fever, or anything else that makes your puppy seem off in a general way
If one of these pops up, give it a day and see whether things settle. If they don’t, trust your gut and call your vet. You know your puppy better than anyone.
For everything else, the right support and a few good chews will carry you both through. Just getting started with a new pup? Our guide to bringing a puppy home covers those early weeks brilliantly.
Choosing the best kitten food is one of those decisions that feels straightforward until you’re actually doing it, and suddenly every shelf and search result pulls you in a different direction. This guide cuts through that noise with practical advice on wet versus dry food, how to read a label properly, how much to feed at every stage, and what to do when your kitten has opinions of their own. Whether you’re setting up for day one or adjusting as your kitten grows, you’ll find everything you need to feed with confidence right here.
What actually counts as the best kitten food for your new arrival?
Finding the best kitten food feels simple enough — until you’re actually standing in front of a shelf stacked floor to ceiling with options. Pouches, tins, biscuits, raw, grain-free, sensitive, indoor. It’s a lot, especially when you just want to do right by a tiny cat who depends entirely on you.
The most useful thing to know upfront: kitten food and adult cat food are genuinely different, and that difference really matters. Kittens grow at a remarkable rate, and they need more protein, more fat, more calories, and higher levels of specific nutrients like calcium, phosphorus, and taurine than an adult cat requires. Feed an adult formula too early and your kitten may simply not get the building blocks they need to grow well. It’s not a minor tweak — it’s a fundamentally different nutritional brief.
When you pick up any pack, look for the words “complete and balanced for kittens” or “all life stages.” That phrasing means the food has been formulated to meet your kitten’s full nutritional needs on its own, with nothing extra required. If a food says “complementary,” it’s designed to sit alongside something else — not replace it. That’s the single most important label check you’ll make, so it’s worth getting comfortable with it early.
Beyond that, the best food for kittens is one they’ll actually eat, fits your daily routine, and that you can buy consistently without the stress of it going out of stock. The Lords and Labradors kitten food collection is a good place to see what well-formulated options actually look like. The rest of this guide will help you narrow things down from there.
Wet food, dry food, or both: what works best in real life?
There’s no single rule that makes one format the best kitten food for every household — and most experienced cat owners will tell you they’ve landed somewhere in the middle. Wet and dry food each bring something genuinely useful to the bowl, and understanding those differences makes the whole decision a lot simpler.
Factor
Wet Food
Dry Food
Hydration
High moisture content, great for keeping kittens well hydrated
Low moisture, so fresh water alongside is essential
Texture appeal
Soft and easy to chew, ideal for younger kittens
Crunchy texture some kittens love, though not all take to it straight away
Convenience
Best served fresh, so less practical if you’re out all day
Easy to portion, stays in the bowl longer, great for measured feeding
Cost
Typically costs more per serving
Usually more economical over time
Shelf life
Short once opened, usually 24 hours refrigerated
Long shelf life, simple to store
Combining both is a sensible approach that many vets are happy with, and it works well in practice. Wet kitten food at set mealtimes supports hydration in a really natural way, which matters more than you might think — kittens are notoriously poor water drinkers. Dry food then gives you flexibility around a busy day without worrying about what’s been sitting in the bowl since breakfast. If you’re looking for quality options to build into your kitten’s routine, the wet cat food range is a good place to start.
A few practical things to help you find your balance:
Offer wet food at set mealtimes and use dry as a flexible top-up during the day
Watch how your kitten eats — enthusiasm tells you a lot about what format they prefer
If they rarely touch their water bowl, lean further towards wet food
Start simple, then adjust as you both settle into a routine
How to spot a proper complete kitten food on the label
Picking up a bag or pouch that says “kitten” on the front feels reassuring — but that label alone doesn’t guarantee the food is nutritionally complete. Reading a little further takes about thirty seconds and makes a real difference to what ends up in your kitten’s bowl.
Look for the word “complete”. You’ll usually find it on the front or back of the pack. That single word confirms the food meets all of your kitten’s nutritional needs on its own, every day.
Check the life-stage wording. The label should say “for kittens,” “for growth,” or “for all life stages.” If it only says “for adult cats,” put it back.
Find a named animal protein as the first ingredient. Chicken, salmon, or turkey listed first means animal protein leads the recipe, not cereals or vague fillers.
Look for an AAFCO or FEDIAF nutritional adequacy statement. This confirms the food has been formulated to meet recognised standards for growing cats, not just cats in general.
Think about caloric density. Kittens need significantly more calories per gram of bodyweight than adults do, so food made specifically for growth will reflect this in its nutritional values.
Complete vs. complementary, simply put: A complete food provides everything your kitten needs as a standalone meal. A complementary food is designed to be fed alongside something else and can’t do the job alone.
Once you know what to look for, spotting the right food takes seconds. The Lords and Labradors cat food range is a solid place to start browsing options that have already done the hard work for you.
Feeding amounts, meal frequency, and when to change as they grow
Kittens have tiny stomachs and very big appetites for life, so feeding little and often usually works best. Getting the balance right helps support steady growth, a healthy weight, and fewer tummy upsets too.
Kitten Feeding Guide by Age
Age
Meals Per Day
General Portion Guidance
8–12 weeks
4–5
Offer small meals and use the feeding guide on your chosen kitten wet food, kitten dry food, or mixed-feeding plan as your starting point
3–6 months
3–4
Increase the total daily amount gradually as your kitten grows, then split it across meals based on the label guidance
6–12 months
2–3
Keep adjusting portions with growth and body condition as your kitten moves towards an adult routine
If you feed both wet and dry, remember the daily amount needs balancing across both, not adding a full day’s serving of each. That’s one of the easiest ways to overfeed without meaning to.
Practical tips to get it right:
Start with the pack guidelines for your kitten’s age and weight, then tweak based on body condition and appetite
Weigh your kitten regularly, especially in the first few months when they seem to change overnight
Move to fewer meals gradually rather than dropping from four to two in one go
Measured dry food is usually easier to manage than topping up the bowl throughout the day
If your kitten constantly leaves food, or finishes every meal and still seems hungry, it’s worth reviewing portions
If you want a more detailed breakdown, our full kitten feeding guide goes into more detail by age and weight.
Even the best kitten food still needs the right portion size. A little attention now makes feeding feel much simpler as your kitten grows.
Ingredients, sensitivities, and choosing food your kitten will actually eat
Even the most nutritionally complete kitten food is useless if your kitten sniffs it twice and walks off in disgust. Ingredient quality and texture matter — especially for young digestive systems still finding their feet — so it pays to be a little selective from the start.
Here’s what to look for in practice:
Named meat first. Chicken, salmon, or turkey should sit at the top of the ingredient list. Vague terms like “meat derivatives” usually mean the recipe is cutting corners.
Go easy on fillers. Some carbohydrate content is fine, but cereals and plant proteins shouldn’t dominate — particularly in those early months when your kitten is growing fast.
Spot the green flags. Firm stools, steady weight gain, a glossy coat, and genuine excitement at mealtimes are all signs a food is genuinely working.
Take red flags seriously. Loose stools, bloating, or consistent refusal aren’t things to push through. They’re worth acting on.
Respect texture preferences. Some kittens go wild for pâté-style wet food; others want chunks or kitten dry food. Many do well on a mix of both. Follow their lead.
Transition slowly. When switching foods, mix old and new over seven to ten days to keep digestive upsets at bay.
If your kitten shows recurring signs of sensitivity — loose stools, skin reactions, persistent fussiness — it’s worth exploring sensitive and hypoallergenic cat food formulated for more delicate systems.
Finding the right match can take a little trial and error. The best food for kittens is simply the one your individual kitten genuinely thrives on.
Which kitten food should you choose? A simple way to decide
There’s no single best kitten food that works for every cat and every household — and honestly, accepting that makes the whole decision much easier. What you’re really looking for is something complete and balanced, made with decent ingredients, that your kitten actually wants to eat.
Start by thinking practically. Out of the house most of the day? Dry kitten food earns its place because it won’t spoil sitting in the bowl. If your kitten seems lukewarm about food or you want to boost their fluid intake, wet food is a brilliant option — most kittens find it far more tempting. Plenty of cat parents naturally settle into a mix of both over time, and it genuinely works well.
From there, it’s fairly straightforward. Choose a food labelled complete for kittens, check that a named protein — chicken, salmon, turkey — sits at the top of the ingredients list, and pick a texture your kitten responds to. Then give it a proper chance before switching. Chopping and changing too soon is one of the most common mistakes new kitten parents make, and it can unsettle a young cat’s digestion faster than almost anything else.
If you’re still finding your feet with the basics, our guide on how to prepare for your new kitten is a great place to start. The right food is out there. You don’t need to have it all figured out on day one — you just need to begin.
If you have ever watched a cat bypass a brand new bed to squeeze into a battered delivery box, you already know that cardboard holds a very particular power over them. This article gets into the real reasons why cats like to go in boxes, from the deep-rooted instincts behind it to the surprising science that explains why boxes can actually make cats feel calmer and more secure. You will also find practical tips for making box time safer at home, plus some cosy alternatives worth knowing about.
Why do cats like to go in boxes? The short answer
If you have ever set down an empty delivery box and watched your cat claim it within seconds, you already know that cats and cardboard share a very special relationship. But why do cats like to go in boxes so reliably — regardless of age, personality, or how many perfectly good beds they have completely ignored?
The honest answer comes down to instinct. Cats are both predators and prey, which means they are hardwired to seek out small, enclosed spaces where they feel hidden, secure, and in control. A box delivers all of that at once. It is basically the feline version of a perfect afternoon.
But there is more to it than simple survival instinct. Cardboard retains warmth, which cats are naturally drawn to. Boxes offer novelty, which keeps curious, intelligent animals happily occupied. And research has actually shown that access to a box can meaningfully lower stress levels in cats, especially when they are adjusting to a new or unsettling environment.
So if your cat has commandeered every online delivery since you started shopping from home, they are not just being theatrical. They are following a deeply rooted urge that feels safe, satisfying, and entirely natural to them.
This article unpacks all of it — from the science behind why cats are attracted to boxes to practical ways you can lean into the behaviour at home. And if you want to go a step further, you can explore our full range of cat essentials for even more ways to keep your cat comfortable and content.
How boxes make cats feel safe, hidden, and in control
One of the clearest answers to why cats like to go in boxes lies in how perfectly a box suits their dual nature as both predator and prey. Inside a box, a cat can watch everything happening in the room while staying completely hidden. That combination of visibility and cover is deeply wired into how cats experience the world.
Reduced sensory overwhelm: Enclosed spaces filter out visual noise and movement, helping cats feel calmer in busier households.
Monitoring without exposure: A cat in a box can track people, other pets, and sounds without putting itself in a vulnerable position.
Ambush readiness: Even the most pampered indoor cat still carries those hunting instincts. A box keeps them poised and ready, even if the “prey” turns out to be a passing sock.
A sense of boundary and control: Cats feel safest when they can define their own space. A box creates a clear perimeter that feels entirely theirs.
Instinct, not stubbornness: That moment when your cat bypasses a plush bed to squeeze into the tiniest cardboard box in the room? That’s not cheek. That’s instinct telling them that smaller means safer.
Enclosed spaces give cats something open rooms simply cannot: a genuine sense of control over their environment. If your cat gravitates toward boxes and tight corners, they’re not being awkward — they’re following instincts that go back thousands of years. Our High Wall Bouclé Cat Bed is built with exactly that in mind, with raised, defined sides that recreate the sheltered, secure feeling cats love about boxes — just a little more comfortable for everyone involved.
What the Leiden University stress study found about boxes and feline stress
There is some genuine science behind why cats like to go in boxes. A well-known study from Leiden University looked at newly arrived shelter cats and found that simple hiding boxes seemed to help them cope better with the stress of a big change.
That matters because shelters are full of unfamiliar smells, sounds, and routines. For a cat, that can feel overwhelming. In the study, cats with access to a box generally showed lower stress scores and appeared to settle more quickly than cats without one. In other words, the box was not just somewhere to sit. It gave the cat a safe, contained space to retreat to while taking in a new environment.
A few easy takeaways from the research:
Cats with a hiding box appeared to adapt more quickly in a stressful setting
A small, enclosed space may help cats feel safer and more in control
Hiding can be a normal coping behaviour, not something “bad” that needs stopping
The idea is useful beyond shelters too, especially for new kittens, house moves, or changes in routine
The big lesson is simple: when cats can choose to tuck themselves away, they often feel more secure. That helps explain why cats like boxes so much in the first place.
At home, that does not have to mean leaving delivery boxes all over the hallway, although many cats would be thrilled with that. A cardboard box, covered bed, or snug hideaway can all offer a similar sense of comfort. If your cat likes cosy places to curl up out of sight, our cat beds collection is a helpful place to start.
Why cardboard boxes are so irresistible: texture, warmth, and novelty
Part of understanding why cats like to go in boxes comes down to the material itself. Cardboard ticks several boxes at once (pun very much intended), offering a mix of sensory rewards that are genuinely hard to resist. It’s rarely just one thing pulling them in.
Natural insulation: Cardboard traps body heat surprisingly well, creating a snug little pocket of warmth that feels immediately comforting to a cat settling in for a nap.
Scratch-friendly texture: The surface is satisfying to knead and scratch, giving cats a natural outlet for an instinct they act on every single day.
Novelty and mental stimulation: A new box arriving in the house is basically an event. Exploring it engages their curiosity and gives their brain a small but meaningful workout.
Muffled acoustics: The walls absorb surrounding sound, softening the environment and helping cats feel calmer and less overstimulated.
Familiar, neutral scent: Cardboard carries no strong or threatening smells, which makes it feel safe and approachable from the very first sniff.
Put all of that together and it’s easy to see why cat behaviour in boxes makes so much sense. Warm, tactile, quiet, and interesting all at once — it’s a pretty compelling combination. If you want to make a box even more inviting, try tucking in one of our soft cat blankets to layer up the warmth and comfort your cat is already searching for.
How to use boxes safely and keep the fun going at home
Giving your cat a cardboard box to explore is one of the easiest wins in pet parenting, but a little prep goes a long way. Before you set one down, check it over properly. Remove any staples, packing tape, or sharp folded edges that could catch a paw or scratch a nose, and give it a quick sniff while you’re at it. Boxes that have held cleaning products or heavily scented goods are best left in the recycling.
Once it passes the check, placement matters more than you might expect. Tuck it somewhere quiet, away from busy hallways or noisy appliances. Cats are drawn to boxes because they feel hidden and in control, so dropping one in the middle of a well-trafficked room rather misses the point.
It’s also worth keeping an eye on chewing. Most cats will sniff, knead, and generally make themselves at home without much drama, but if yours is tearing off chunks and swallowing them, it’s time to swap things out for something safer.
When you want a longer-lasting version of the same comfort, cat tunnels, enclosed hideaway beds, and soft-sided dens deliver everything a cardboard box does: warmth, shelter, and that deeply satisfying tucked-in feeling. They’re washable, sturdier, and far tidier to have around the house. The instinct behind why cats like to go in boxes stays exactly the same. You’re just giving it a proper home.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my cat prefer the box over the toy inside it?
The box satisfies a stronger, more deeply rooted instinct: shelter and concealment than almost any toy can compete with.
Is it bad for my cat to sleep in a box all the time?
Not inherently, but make sure they still have access to fresh water, food, and a litter tray nearby, and that the box is clean, dry, and free of sharp edges or packaging debris.
Do kittens like boxes too?
Yes. Often, even more than adult cats, since boxes double as a place to play, pounce, and practise hiding behaviours from a very young age.
Watching two cats curl up and wash each other is one of those small, lovely moments that makes a multi-cat home feel just right. This guide looks at why do cats lick each other, from the social bonds and shared scents behind allogrooming to the times when one-sided licking might be worth a closer look. You’ll also find practical tips on setting up your home so your cats can feel calm, comfortable, and genuinely at ease together.
Why do cats lick each other? A quick look at cat grooming
If you’ve ever caught your cats curled up together, giving each other a careful wash, it’s natural to wonder why do cats lick each other when they can groom themselves just fine. In most cases, it’s a lovely, normal part of cat grooming behavior called social grooming.
When cats groom each other, they’re not just tidying up. They’re building trust, sharing comfort, and showing that they feel relaxed enough to be close. You’ll often notice them licking around the head, ears, or neck, which are tricky spots to clean alone. So yes, there’s a practical side, but the bigger message is usually affection and bonding.
This starts early. Mother cats lick their kittens to clean them, soothe them, and help them feel secure. As cats grow, that same behaviour can carry into adult relationships, which helps explain why cats lick each other’s fur when they’ve formed a strong bond at home.
So if your two cats take turns grooming on the sofa or after a nap in their favourite bed, it’s usually a reassuring sign. They likely see each other as part of the same social group. If you’re also helping cats and dogs live happily together, our guide on how to get your dog and cat to get along may help.
What allogrooming means in a cat household
If you’ve ever caught one cat carefully washing another’s ears and wondered why do cats lick each other so intently, you’re looking at allogrooming. It’s simply the name for one cat grooming another, and it’s a very normal part of life in many multi-cat homes.
So, why do cats groom each other in the first place? Usually, it comes down to familiarity, comfort, and living closely together.
It helps build bonds. Grooming can be a calming, rewarding social interaction for cats, so doing it regularly may help strengthen their connection over time.
It creates a shared scent. When cats lick each other’s fur, they mix their scents together. That shared smell helps them recognise one another as part of the same social group.
It helps with hard-to-reach areas. The top of the head, around the ears, and the neck are awkward spots for a cat to clean alone, so a friendly housemate can step in.
It can keep the peace. In some pairs or groups, grooming seems to help smooth over small tensions and make everyone feel more settled.
It shows trust. Cats are vulnerable when they’re being groomed, so allowing another cat close in that way is often one of the loveliest cat affection signs to spot at home.
In a happy cat household, allogrooming often becomes part of the daily rhythm. It’s one of those little cat grooming behavior clues that can tell you your cats feel safe, familiar, and comfortable with each other.
Is it about love, hierarchy, or both?
The honest answer is that cat grooming behavior is rarely just one thing. When cats lick each other, it can absolutely be about affection, but it can also reflect who feels more confident, settled, or socially comfortable in the pair. So if you’ve ever wondered why do cats lick each other, the answer is often both love and social structure.
Cats may groom one another to:
strengthen a bond they already feel secure in
calm things down after a brief wobble or disagreement
share scent and reinforce a familiar group feeling at home
show social confidence, especially when one cat usually starts the grooming
comfort a companion they know well, including a sibling or long-time housemate
That’s why cat grooming behavior can look very sweet on the surface while still telling you something about the relationship underneath. One cat licking the other’s head or neck, for example, may be gentle and affectionate, but it can also show which cat tends to take the lead socially.
Worth knowing: one study on close-contact inter-cat interactions found that cats can show both affiliative and agonistic behaviors, so grooming may sit alongside tension rather than always meaning pure affection.
In other words, why do cats groom each other is not always a simple romance story. In a calm, well-set-up home, with enough space and resources like a cat scratch post, you’re more likely to see the relaxed, easy kind of grooming most pet parents hope for.
When one cat does all the licking: signs it may be stress, not just affection
Mutual grooming is usually a lovely sign that your cats feel safe and bonded together. But it’s worth paying attention when one cat is always doing the licking and the other is simply putting up with it. That kind of one-sided pattern can sometimes point to stress, anxiety, or an uneven social dynamic rather than pure affection.
Here are a few signs to watch for:
The cat being groomed flattens their ears or pulls their head away
They walk off mid-session looking relieved, not relaxed
One cat always initiates grooming, never the other way around
You notice thinning fur in certain spots from repeated, concentrated licking
The licking looks frantic or repetitive rather than slow and settled
The recipient shows tension during grooming — tail flicking, a low grumble, or a stiff body
Compulsive grooming can be a response to environmental stress. Giving cats a positive outlet for restless energy really does help, and something like a wall climber or activity centre can make a surprising difference to anxious behaviour at home.
A little one-sidedness is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about on its own. Most cats settle into their own grooming rhythms over time. But if you’re consistently noticing avoidance, tension, or licking that looks more compulsive than caring, it’s worth keeping a closer eye on things. A chat with your vet or a cat behaviourist can help you figure out what’s going on and how best to support both cats.
How to support calm, comfortable cat relationships at home
The good news is that most cats in the same household find their own rhythm over time. But there are things you can do to smooth the process along, especially if you have a newer pairing or a cat who seems a little unsettled.
Start with space. Cats feel safest when they have somewhere to retreat to that is entirely their own. If your cats share every bed, bowl, and sunny windowsill, tension can quietly build even when everything looks fine on the surface. Giving each cat a dedicated resting spot makes a real difference — not just for their comfort, but for the overall mood of the household. A cosy, enclosed bed works especially well as a personal sanctuary, somewhere a cat can decompress without another wandering in uninvited. If you are looking for something that suits each cat’s individual personality, the Lords & Labradors cat bed collection is well worth a browse.
Scratching posts are another simple win. Place them in a few different spots around the home and cats can mark their territory in a way that feels natural and low-conflict, which quietly helps keep the peace without anyone having to step in.
When it comes to encouraging closeness, let the cats lead. Grooming and licking will happen on their terms, and that is exactly how it should be. Moving them together when they seem settled apart, or hovering over interactions, can create friction rather than ease it. Step back and trust them.
Watching your cats groom each other and genuinely seem at ease together is one of the quiet joys of a multi-cat home. A little support from you goes a long way in helping them get there.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does it mean if cats lick each other?
It usually means they feel comfortable and familiar with each other. Cats often lick one another as part of social grooming, or allogrooming, which helps with bonding, shared scent, and cleaning hard-to-reach spots like the head, ears, and neck. It can also reflect social confidence within the pair.
Does the dominant cat groom the other?
Sometimes, yes. When one cat regularly starts the grooming, it can show social confidence or that they tend to take the lead in the relationship, not just affection. The bigger picture matters though, as relaxed body language and calm, mutual interactions usually suggest the grooming is comfortable and positive.
Is it good when a cat licks another cat?
Yes, in most cases it’s a good sign. Cats licking each other is often a normal, reassuring part of social grooming that shows trust, comfort, and bonding. It’s only worth watching more closely if the licking looks frantic, one-sided, or seems to make the other cat tense or uneasy.
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