10.01.23 January 10, 2023 Owning a Cat

Clumping vs Non-Clumping Cat Litter

Choosing between clumping vs non clumping cat litter is one of those decisions every cat owner faces, and the right answer depends on your cat, your household and how you prefer to clean the tray. Both types do the same basic job, but they handle moisture, odour and day to day maintenance very differently. In this guide we explain how each type works, weigh up the pros and cons, and share what vets tend to recommend, so you can pick the perfect litter for your feline friend. What Is Clumping Litter? Clumping litter is usually made from bentonite clay, a natural material that absorbs liquid and binds together into firm clumps wherever your cat urinates. Those clumps can then be scooped straight out of the tray, along with any solids, leaving the rest of the litter clean and dry. You simply top up with fresh litter as the level drops, and do a full tray change every week or two. Because waste is removed as soon as you spot it, clumping litter tends to stay fresher for longer between full changes. It also makes it easy to see exactly how much your cat is urinating, which is more useful than you might think. A sudden change in the size or number of clumps can be an early warning sign of urinary or kidney issues, giving you a head start on a vet visit. What Is Non Clumping Cat Litter? Non clumping cat litter absorbs urine without forming clumps. Traditional versions are made from clay granules, while newer options use recycled paper, wood pellets, corn or silica crystals. The litter soaks up moisture and helps control odour until it reaches saturation point, at which stage the whole tray needs to be emptied, washed and refilled, typically once or twice a week depending on how many cats use it. Non clumping litters are often cheaper per bag, lighter to carry and lower in dust than clay clumping varieties. Wood and paper versions are also softer underfoot, which makes them a popular choice for kittens and for cats recovering from surgery, and many are biodegradable for owners who want a more eco friendly option. Clumping vs Non Clumping Cat Litter: Key Differences Here is how the two types compare at a glance: Feature Clumping litter Non clumping cat litter Daily cleaning Scoop clumps and solids as you spot them Remove solids; urine stays in the litter Full tray change Every one to two weeks Once or twice a week Odour control Very good, as urine is removed daily Good at first, fades as litter saturates Cost per bag Usually higher, but lasts longer Usually cheaper, replaced more often Health monitoring Easy to track urination via clump size Harder to monitor urine output Best for Adult cats, multi cat homes Young kittens, cats who dig and taste litter The Pros and Cons of Each Litter Type Reasons owners love clumping litter: Less waste day to day as you only remove the soiled portion, so a bag goes further Superior freshness because urine leaves the tray daily rather than sitting in the litter Easy health checks since clump size and frequency show you how much your cat is weeing Reasons owners choose non clumping cat litter: Lower upfront cost and widely available in larger, lighter bags Gentler textures with paper and wood pellets that suit tiny paws and healing cats Greener options as many plant based versions are biodegradable Do Vets Recommend Clumping Litter? So, do vets recommend clumping litter? For healthy adult cats, many do. The two things vets care about most are hygiene and monitoring, and clumping litter scores well on both. Daily scooping keeps the tray consistently clean, which encourages good litter habits, and the clumps themselves let you keep an eye on urination. Changes in urine output can flag conditions such as cystitis, diabetes and kidney disease early, and that visibility is something non clumping litters simply cannot offer. There is one important exception. For very young kittens, most vets suggest starting with a non clumping litter. Kittens explore the world with their mouths and often nibble litter while they learn to use the tray, and swallowed clumping litter can expand inside their tummy. A paper or wood based non clumping cat litter is the safer choice until around eight weeks of age, after which you can gradually transition to a clumping variety if you prefer. Whatever the age of your cat, vets generally advise choosing an unscented, low dust formula, as heavy fragrances can put cats off the tray entirely. If you are ever unsure, or your cat has a health condition, ask your own vet for tailored advice. Which Litter Should You Choose? If you have a healthy adult cat, or several cats sharing your home, clumping litter is usually the more convenient and fresher smelling option over time. If you have a new kitten, a cat who likes to taste test the tray, or you want the most economical or eco friendly option, non clumping is the way to go. Many owners actually keep both in the cupboard, using non clumping for the kitten months before moving on to clumping litter in adulthood. Remember that cats can be surprisingly fussy about texture. If you switch types, do it gradually by mixing a little more of the new litter into the old over a week or so. A sudden change can lead to accidents outside the tray. Setting Up the Perfect Litter Tray Whichever side of the clumping vs non clumping cat litter debate you land on, the setup around it matters just as much. Follow the golden rule of one tray per cat plus one spare, placed in quiet spots away from food and water. Confident cats are usually happy with open top litter trays, while shy cats often prefer hooded litter trays for extra privacy, which also help contain scatter and smells. Keep a set of litter scoops, mats and liners next to the tray to make daily cleaning quick, and use a litter tray odour neutraliser between full changes to keep everything smelling fresh. If you fancy trying a premium plant based clumping option, the World's Best cat litter range is a favourite with our customers, and you can compare all the types we stock in our full range of cat litter. Frequently Asked Questions Can kittens use clumping litter? It is best to wait until your kitten is at least eight weeks old and reliably using the tray without eating the litter. Until then, stick to a paper or wood based non clumping litter. When you make the switch, transition gradually so the new texture does not put them off. Our guide to everything you need for a new kitten covers the full litter tray setup for new arrivals. How often should you change non clumping cat litter? Plan on a complete change once or twice a week for one cat, and more often in multi cat homes. Remove solids daily, and empty the tray as soon as you notice odour or damp patches, as saturated litter can quickly put cats off using it. Is clumping litter more expensive? Per bag, clumping litter usually costs more. Per month, the gap is smaller than it looks, because you only remove the soiled clumps rather than binning the whole tray every few days. For many households the two types work out at a similar overall cost, so the choice comes down to convenience, your cat's age and their preferences.

By Laura Rudd

What Is Clumping Litter?

Clumping litter is usually made from bentonite clay, a natural material that absorbs liquid and binds together into firm clumps wherever your cat urinates. Those clumps can then be scooped straight out of the tray, along with any solids, leaving the rest of the litter clean and dry. You simply top up with fresh litter as the level drops, and do a full tray change every week or two.

Because waste is removed as soon as you spot it, clumping litter tends to stay fresher for longer between full changes. It also makes it easy to see exactly how much your cat is urinating, which is more useful than you might think. A sudden change in the size or number of clumps can be an early warning sign of urinary or kidney issues, giving you a head start on a vet visit.

What Is Non Clumping Cat Litter?

Non clumping cat litter absorbs urine without forming clumps. Traditional versions are made from clay granules, while newer options use recycled paper, wood pellets, corn or silica crystals. The litter soaks up moisture and helps control odour until it reaches saturation point, at which stage the whole tray needs to be emptied, washed and refilled, typically once or twice a week depending on how many cats use it.

Non clumping litters are often cheaper per bag, lighter to carry and lower in dust than clay clumping varieties. Wood and paper versions are also softer underfoot, which makes them a popular choice for kittens and for cats recovering from surgery, and many are biodegradable for owners who want a more eco friendly option.

Clumping vs Non Clumping Cat Litter: Key Differences

Here is how the two types compare at a glance:

Feature	Clumping litter	Non clumping cat litter
Daily cleaning	Scoop clumps and solids as you spot them	Remove solids; urine stays in the litter
Full tray change	Every one to two weeks	Once or twice a week
Odour control	Very good, as urine is removed daily	Good at first, fades as litter saturates
Cost per bag	Usually higher, but lasts longer	Usually cheaper, replaced more often
Health monitoring	Easy to track urination via clump size	Harder to monitor urine output
Best for	Adult cats, multi cat homes	Young kittens, cats who dig and taste litter

The Pros and Cons of Each Litter Type

Reasons owners love clumping litter:

Less waste day to day as you only remove the soiled portion, so a bag goes further
Superior freshness because urine leaves the tray daily rather than sitting in the litter
Easy health checks since clump size and frequency show you how much your cat is weeing

Reasons owners choose non clumping cat litter:

Lower upfront cost and widely available in larger, lighter bags
Gentler textures with paper and wood pellets that suit tiny paws and healing cats
Greener options as many plant based versions are biodegradable

Do Vets Recommend Clumping Litter?

So, do vets recommend clumping litter? For healthy adult cats, many do. The two things vets care about most are hygiene and monitoring, and clumping litter scores well on both. Daily scooping keeps the tray consistently clean, which encourages good litter habits, and the clumps themselves let you keep an eye on urination. Changes in urine output can flag conditions such as cystitis, diabetes and kidney disease early, and that visibility is something non clumping litters simply cannot offer.

There is one important exception. For very young kittens, most vets suggest starting with a non clumping litter. Kittens explore the world with their mouths and often nibble litter while they learn to use the tray, and swallowed clumping litter can expand inside their tummy. A paper or wood based non clumping cat litter is the safer choice until around eight weeks of age, after which you can gradually transition to a clumping variety if you prefer. Whatever the age of your cat, vets generally advise choosing an unscented, low dust formula, as heavy fragrances can put cats off the tray entirely. If you are ever unsure, or your cat has a health condition, ask your own vet for tailored advice.

Which Litter Should You Choose?

If you have a healthy adult cat, or several cats sharing your home, clumping litter is usually the more convenient and fresher smelling option over time. If you have a new kitten, a cat who likes to taste test the tray, or you want the most economical or eco friendly option, non clumping is the way to go. Many owners actually keep both in the cupboard, using non clumping for the kitten months before moving on to clumping litter in adulthood.

Remember that cats can be surprisingly fussy about texture. If you switch types, do it gradually by mixing a little more of the new litter into the old over a week or so. A sudden change can lead to accidents outside the tray.

Setting Up the Perfect Litter Tray

Whichever side of the clumping vs non clumping cat litter debate you land on, the setup around it matters just as much. Follow the golden rule of one tray per cat plus one spare, placed in quiet spots away from food and water. Confident cats are usually happy with open top litter trays, while shy cats often prefer hooded litter trays for extra privacy, which also help contain scatter and smells.

Keep a set of litter scoops, mats and liners next to the tray to make daily cleaning quick, and use a litter tray odour neutraliser between full changes to keep everything smelling fresh. If you fancy trying a premium plant based clumping option, the World's Best cat litter range is a favourite with our customers, and you can compare all the types we stock in our full range of cat litter.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can kittens use clumping litter?

It is best to wait until your kitten is at least eight weeks old and reliably using the tray without eating the litter. Until then, stick to a paper or wood based non clumping litter. When you make the switch, transition gradually so the new texture does not put them off. Our guide to everything you need for a new kitten covers the full litter tray setup for new arrivals.

How often should you change non clumping cat litter?

Plan on a complete change once or twice a week for one cat, and more often in multi cat homes. Remove solids daily, and empty the tray as soon as you notice odour or damp patches, as saturated litter can quickly put cats off using it.

Is clumping litter more expensive?

Per bag, clumping litter usually costs more. Per month, the gap is smaller than it looks, because you only remove the soiled clumps rather than binning the whole tray every few days. For many households the two types work out at a similar overall cost, so the choice comes down to convenience, your cat's age and their preferences.

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07.10.26 October 07, 2026 Owning a Cat

Best kitten food: what to feed a kitten and when

Choosing the best kitten food is one of those decisions that feels straightforward until you’re actually doing it, and suddenly every shelf and search result pulls you in a different direction. This guide cuts through that noise with practical advice on wet versus dry food, how to read a label properly, how much to feed at every stage, and what to do when your kitten has opinions of their own. Whether you’re setting up for day one or adjusting as your kitten grows, you’ll find everything you need to feed with confidence right here. What actually counts as the best kitten food for your new arrival? Finding the best kitten food feels simple enough — until you’re actually standing in front of a shelf stacked floor to ceiling with options. Pouches, tins, biscuits, raw, grain-free, sensitive, indoor. It’s a lot, especially when you just want to do right by a tiny cat who depends entirely on you. The most useful thing to know upfront: kitten food and adult cat food are genuinely different, and that difference really matters. Kittens grow at a remarkable rate, and they need more protein, more fat, more calories, and higher levels of specific nutrients like calcium, phosphorus, and taurine than an adult cat requires. Feed an adult formula too early and your kitten may simply not get the building blocks they need to grow well. It’s not a minor tweak — it’s a fundamentally different nutritional brief. When you pick up any pack, look for the words “complete and balanced for kittens” or “all life stages.” That phrasing means the food has been formulated to meet your kitten’s full nutritional needs on its own, with nothing extra required. If a food says “complementary,” it’s designed to sit alongside something else — not replace it. That’s the single most important label check you’ll make, so it’s worth getting comfortable with it early. Beyond that, the best food for kittens is one they’ll actually eat, fits your daily routine, and that you can buy consistently without the stress of it going out of stock. The Lords and Labradors kitten food collection is a good place to see what well-formulated options actually look like. The rest of this guide will help you narrow things down from there. Wet food, dry food, or both: what works best in real life? There’s no single rule that makes one format the best kitten food for every household — and most experienced cat owners will tell you they’ve landed somewhere in the middle. Wet and dry food each bring something genuinely useful to the bowl, and understanding those differences makes the whole decision a lot simpler. Factor Wet Food Dry Food Hydration High moisture content, great for keeping kittens well hydrated Low moisture, so fresh water alongside is essential Texture appeal Soft and easy to chew, ideal for younger kittens Crunchy texture some kittens love, though not all take to it straight away Convenience Best served fresh, so less practical if you’re out all day Easy to portion, stays in the bowl longer, great for measured feeding Cost Typically costs more per serving Usually more economical over time Shelf life Short once opened, usually 24 hours refrigerated Long shelf life, simple to store Combining both is a sensible approach that many vets are happy with, and it works well in practice. Wet kitten food at set mealtimes supports hydration in a really natural way, which matters more than you might think — kittens are notoriously poor water drinkers. Dry food then gives you flexibility around a busy day without worrying about what’s been sitting in the bowl since breakfast. If you’re looking for quality options to build into your kitten’s routine, the wet cat food range is a good place to start. A few practical things to help you find your balance: Offer wet food at set mealtimes and use dry as a flexible top-up during the day Watch how your kitten eats — enthusiasm tells you a lot about what format they prefer If they rarely touch their water bowl, lean further towards wet food Start simple, then adjust as you both settle into a routine How to spot a proper complete kitten food on the label Picking up a bag or pouch that says “kitten” on the front feels reassuring — but that label alone doesn’t guarantee the food is nutritionally complete. Reading a little further takes about thirty seconds and makes a real difference to what ends up in your kitten’s bowl. Look for the word “complete”. You’ll usually find it on the front or back of the pack. That single word confirms the food meets all of your kitten’s nutritional needs on its own, every day. Check the life-stage wording. The label should say “for kittens,” “for growth,” or “for all life stages.” If it only says “for adult cats,” put it back. Find a named animal protein as the first ingredient. Chicken, salmon, or turkey listed first means animal protein leads the recipe, not cereals or vague fillers. Look for an AAFCO or FEDIAF nutritional adequacy statement. This confirms the food has been formulated to meet recognised standards for growing cats, not just cats in general. Think about caloric density. Kittens need significantly more calories per gram of bodyweight than adults do, so food made specifically for growth will reflect this in its nutritional values. Complete vs. complementary, simply put: A complete food provides everything your kitten needs as a standalone meal. A complementary food is designed to be fed alongside something else and can’t do the job alone. Once you know what to look for, spotting the right food takes seconds. The Lords and Labradors cat food range is a solid place to start browsing options that have already done the hard work for you. Feeding amounts, meal frequency, and when to change as they grow Kittens have tiny stomachs and very big appetites for life, so feeding little and often usually works best. Getting the balance right helps support steady growth, a healthy weight, and fewer tummy upsets too. Kitten Feeding Guide by Age Age Meals Per Day General Portion Guidance 8–12 weeks 4–5 Offer small meals and use the feeding guide on your chosen kitten wet food, kitten dry food, or mixed-feeding plan as your starting point 3–6 months 3–4 Increase the total daily amount gradually as your kitten grows, then split it across meals based on the label guidance 6–12 months 2–3 Keep adjusting portions with growth and body condition as your kitten moves towards an adult routine If you feed both wet and dry, remember the daily amount needs balancing across both, not adding a full day’s serving of each. That’s one of the easiest ways to overfeed without meaning to. Practical tips to get it right: Start with the pack guidelines for your kitten’s age and weight, then tweak based on body condition and appetite Weigh your kitten regularly, especially in the first few months when they seem to change overnight Move to fewer meals gradually rather than dropping from four to two in one go Measured dry food is usually easier to manage than topping up the bowl throughout the day If your kitten constantly leaves food, or finishes every meal and still seems hungry, it’s worth reviewing portions If you want a more detailed breakdown, our full kitten feeding guide goes into more detail by age and weight. Even the best kitten food still needs the right portion size. A little attention now makes feeding feel much simpler as your kitten grows. Ingredients, sensitivities, and choosing food your kitten will actually eat Even the most nutritionally complete kitten food is useless if your kitten sniffs it twice and walks off in disgust. Ingredient quality and texture matter — especially for young digestive systems still finding their feet — so it pays to be a little selective from the start. Here’s what to look for in practice: Named meat first. Chicken, salmon, or turkey should sit at the top of the ingredient list. Vague terms like “meat derivatives” usually mean the recipe is cutting corners. Go easy on fillers. Some carbohydrate content is fine, but cereals and plant proteins shouldn’t dominate — particularly in those early months when your kitten is growing fast. Spot the green flags. Firm stools, steady weight gain, a glossy coat, and genuine excitement at mealtimes are all signs a food is genuinely working. Take red flags seriously. Loose stools, bloating, or consistent refusal aren’t things to push through. They’re worth acting on. Respect texture preferences. Some kittens go wild for pâté-style wet food; others want chunks or kitten dry food. Many do well on a mix of both. Follow their lead. Transition slowly. When switching foods, mix old and new over seven to ten days to keep digestive upsets at bay. If your kitten shows recurring signs of sensitivity — loose stools, skin reactions, persistent fussiness — it’s worth exploring sensitive and hypoallergenic cat food formulated for more delicate systems. Finding the right match can take a little trial and error. The best food for kittens is simply the one your individual kitten genuinely thrives on. Which kitten food should you choose? A simple way to decide There’s no single best kitten food that works for every cat and every household — and honestly, accepting that makes the whole decision much easier. What you’re really looking for is something complete and balanced, made with decent ingredients, that your kitten actually wants to eat. Start by thinking practically. Out of the house most of the day? Dry kitten food earns its place because it won’t spoil sitting in the bowl. If your kitten seems lukewarm about food or you want to boost their fluid intake, wet food is a brilliant option — most kittens find it far more tempting. Plenty of cat parents naturally settle into a mix of both over time, and it genuinely works well. From there, it’s fairly straightforward. Choose a food labelled complete for kittens, check that a named protein — chicken, salmon, turkey — sits at the top of the ingredients list, and pick a texture your kitten responds to. Then give it a proper chance before switching. Chopping and changing too soon is one of the most common mistakes new kitten parents make, and it can unsettle a young cat’s digestion faster than almost anything else. If you’re still finding your feet with the basics, our guide on how to prepare for your new kitten is a great place to start. The right food is out there. You don’t need to have it all figured out on day one — you just need to begin.

By Adele Busby
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31.08.26 August 31, 2026 Owning a Cat

Why Do Cats Like to Go in Boxes

If you have ever watched a cat bypass a brand new bed to squeeze into a battered delivery box, you already know that cardboard holds a very particular power over them. This article gets into the real reasons why cats like to go in boxes, from the deep-rooted instincts behind it to the surprising science that explains why boxes can actually make cats feel calmer and more secure. You will also find practical tips for making box time safer at home, plus some cosy alternatives worth knowing about. Why do cats like to go in boxes? The short answer If you have ever set down an empty delivery box and watched your cat claim it within seconds, you already know that cats and cardboard share a very special relationship. But why do cats like to go in boxes so reliably — regardless of age, personality, or how many perfectly good beds they have completely ignored? The honest answer comes down to instinct. Cats are both predators and prey, which means they are hardwired to seek out small, enclosed spaces where they feel hidden, secure, and in control. A box delivers all of that at once. It is basically the feline version of a perfect afternoon. But there is more to it than simple survival instinct. Cardboard retains warmth, which cats are naturally drawn to. Boxes offer novelty, which keeps curious, intelligent animals happily occupied. And research has actually shown that access to a box can meaningfully lower stress levels in cats, especially when they are adjusting to a new or unsettling environment. So if your cat has commandeered every online delivery since you started shopping from home, they are not just being theatrical. They are following a deeply rooted urge that feels safe, satisfying, and entirely natural to them. This article unpacks all of it — from the science behind why cats are attracted to boxes to practical ways you can lean into the behaviour at home. And if you want to go a step further, you can explore our full range of cat essentials for even more ways to keep your cat comfortable and content. How boxes make cats feel safe, hidden, and in control One of the clearest answers to why cats like to go in boxes lies in how perfectly a box suits their dual nature as both predator and prey. Inside a box, a cat can watch everything happening in the room while staying completely hidden. That combination of visibility and cover is deeply wired into how cats experience the world. Reduced sensory overwhelm: Enclosed spaces filter out visual noise and movement, helping cats feel calmer in busier households. Monitoring without exposure: A cat in a box can track people, other pets, and sounds without putting itself in a vulnerable position. Ambush readiness: Even the most pampered indoor cat still carries those hunting instincts. A box keeps them poised and ready, even if the “prey” turns out to be a passing sock. A sense of boundary and control: Cats feel safest when they can define their own space. A box creates a clear perimeter that feels entirely theirs. Instinct, not stubbornness: That moment when your cat bypasses a plush bed to squeeze into the tiniest cardboard box in the room? That’s not cheek. That’s instinct telling them that smaller means safer. Enclosed spaces give cats something open rooms simply cannot: a genuine sense of control over their environment. If your cat gravitates toward boxes and tight corners, they’re not being awkward — they’re following instincts that go back thousands of years. Our High Wall Bouclé Cat Bed is built with exactly that in mind, with raised, defined sides that recreate the sheltered, secure feeling cats love about boxes — just a little more comfortable for everyone involved. What the Leiden University stress study found about boxes and feline stress There is some genuine science behind why cats like to go in boxes. A well-known study from Leiden University looked at newly arrived shelter cats and found that simple hiding boxes seemed to help them cope better with the stress of a big change. That matters because shelters are full of unfamiliar smells, sounds, and routines. For a cat, that can feel overwhelming. In the study, cats with access to a box generally showed lower stress scores and appeared to settle more quickly than cats without one. In other words, the box was not just somewhere to sit. It gave the cat a safe, contained space to retreat to while taking in a new environment. A few easy takeaways from the research: Cats with a hiding box appeared to adapt more quickly in a stressful setting A small, enclosed space may help cats feel safer and more in control Hiding can be a normal coping behaviour, not something “bad” that needs stopping The idea is useful beyond shelters too, especially for new kittens, house moves, or changes in routine The big lesson is simple: when cats can choose to tuck themselves away, they often feel more secure. That helps explain why cats like boxes so much in the first place. At home, that does not have to mean leaving delivery boxes all over the hallway, although many cats would be thrilled with that. A cardboard box, covered bed, or snug hideaway can all offer a similar sense of comfort. If your cat likes cosy places to curl up out of sight, our cat beds collection is a helpful place to start. Why cardboard boxes are so irresistible: texture, warmth, and novelty Part of understanding why cats like to go in boxes comes down to the material itself. Cardboard ticks several boxes at once (pun very much intended), offering a mix of sensory rewards that are genuinely hard to resist. It’s rarely just one thing pulling them in. Natural insulation: Cardboard traps body heat surprisingly well, creating a snug little pocket of warmth that feels immediately comforting to a cat settling in for a nap. Scratch-friendly texture: The surface is satisfying to knead and scratch, giving cats a natural outlet for an instinct they act on every single day. Novelty and mental stimulation: A new box arriving in the house is basically an event. Exploring it engages their curiosity and gives their brain a small but meaningful workout. Muffled acoustics: The walls absorb surrounding sound, softening the environment and helping cats feel calmer and less overstimulated. Familiar, neutral scent: Cardboard carries no strong or threatening smells, which makes it feel safe and approachable from the very first sniff. Put all of that together and it’s easy to see why cat behaviour in boxes makes so much sense. Warm, tactile, quiet, and interesting all at once — it’s a pretty compelling combination. If you want to make a box even more inviting, try tucking in one of our soft cat blankets to layer up the warmth and comfort your cat is already searching for. How to use boxes safely and keep the fun going at home Giving your cat a cardboard box to explore is one of the easiest wins in pet parenting, but a little prep goes a long way. Before you set one down, check it over properly. Remove any staples, packing tape, or sharp folded edges that could catch a paw or scratch a nose, and give it a quick sniff while you’re at it. Boxes that have held cleaning products or heavily scented goods are best left in the recycling. Once it passes the check, placement matters more than you might expect. Tuck it somewhere quiet, away from busy hallways or noisy appliances. Cats are drawn to boxes because they feel hidden and in control, so dropping one in the middle of a well-trafficked room rather misses the point. It’s also worth keeping an eye on chewing. Most cats will sniff, knead, and generally make themselves at home without much drama, but if yours is tearing off chunks and swallowing them, it’s time to swap things out for something safer. When you want a longer-lasting version of the same comfort, cat tunnels, enclosed hideaway beds, and soft-sided dens deliver everything a cardboard box does: warmth, shelter, and that deeply satisfying tucked-in feeling. They’re washable, sturdier, and far tidier to have around the house. The instinct behind why cats like to go in boxes stays exactly the same. You’re just giving it a proper home. Frequently Asked Questions Why does my cat prefer the box over the toy inside it? The box satisfies a stronger, more deeply rooted instinct: shelter and concealment than almost any toy can compete with. Is it bad for my cat to sleep in a box all the time? Not inherently, but make sure they still have access to fresh water, food, and a litter tray nearby, and that the box is clean, dry, and free of sharp edges or packaging debris. Do kittens like boxes too? Yes. Often, even more than adult cats, since boxes double as a place to play, pounce, and practise hiding behaviours from a very young age.

By Adele Busby
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26.08.26 August 26, 2026 Owning a Cat

Why Do Cats Lick Each Other

Watching two cats curl up and wash each other is one of those small, lovely moments that makes a multi-cat home feel just right. This guide looks at why do cats lick each other, from the social bonds and shared scents behind allogrooming to the times when one-sided licking might be worth a closer look. You’ll also find practical tips on setting up your home so your cats can feel calm, comfortable, and genuinely at ease together. Why do cats lick each other? A quick look at cat grooming If you’ve ever caught your cats curled up together, giving each other a careful wash, it’s natural to wonder why do cats lick each other when they can groom themselves just fine. In most cases, it’s a lovely, normal part of cat grooming behavior called social grooming. When cats groom each other, they’re not just tidying up. They’re building trust, sharing comfort, and showing that they feel relaxed enough to be close. You’ll often notice them licking around the head, ears, or neck, which are tricky spots to clean alone. So yes, there’s a practical side, but the bigger message is usually affection and bonding. This starts early. Mother cats lick their kittens to clean them, soothe them, and help them feel secure. As cats grow, that same behaviour can carry into adult relationships, which helps explain why cats lick each other’s fur when they’ve formed a strong bond at home. So if your two cats take turns grooming on the sofa or after a nap in their favourite bed, it’s usually a reassuring sign. They likely see each other as part of the same social group. If you’re also helping cats and dogs live happily together, our guide on how to get your dog and cat to get along may help. What allogrooming means in a cat household If you’ve ever caught one cat carefully washing another’s ears and wondered why do cats lick each other so intently, you’re looking at allogrooming. It’s simply the name for one cat grooming another, and it’s a very normal part of life in many multi-cat homes. So, why do cats groom each other in the first place? Usually, it comes down to familiarity, comfort, and living closely together. It helps build bonds. Grooming can be a calming, rewarding social interaction for cats, so doing it regularly may help strengthen their connection over time. It creates a shared scent. When cats lick each other’s fur, they mix their scents together. That shared smell helps them recognise one another as part of the same social group. It helps with hard-to-reach areas. The top of the head, around the ears, and the neck are awkward spots for a cat to clean alone, so a friendly housemate can step in. It can keep the peace. In some pairs or groups, grooming seems to help smooth over small tensions and make everyone feel more settled. It shows trust. Cats are vulnerable when they’re being groomed, so allowing another cat close in that way is often one of the loveliest cat affection signs to spot at home. In a happy cat household, allogrooming often becomes part of the daily rhythm. It’s one of those little cat grooming behavior clues that can tell you your cats feel safe, familiar, and comfortable with each other. Is it about love, hierarchy, or both? The honest answer is that cat grooming behavior is rarely just one thing. When cats lick each other, it can absolutely be about affection, but it can also reflect who feels more confident, settled, or socially comfortable in the pair. So if you’ve ever wondered why do cats lick each other, the answer is often both love and social structure. Cats may groom one another to: strengthen a bond they already feel secure in calm things down after a brief wobble or disagreement share scent and reinforce a familiar group feeling at home show social confidence, especially when one cat usually starts the grooming comfort a companion they know well, including a sibling or long-time housemate That’s why cat grooming behavior can look very sweet on the surface while still telling you something about the relationship underneath. One cat licking the other’s head or neck, for example, may be gentle and affectionate, but it can also show which cat tends to take the lead socially. Worth knowing: one study on close-contact inter-cat interactions found that cats can show both affiliative and agonistic behaviors, so grooming may sit alongside tension rather than always meaning pure affection. In other words, why do cats groom each other is not always a simple romance story. In a calm, well-set-up home, with enough space and resources like a cat scratch post, you’re more likely to see the relaxed, easy kind of grooming most pet parents hope for. When one cat does all the licking: signs it may be stress, not just affection Mutual grooming is usually a lovely sign that your cats feel safe and bonded together. But it’s worth paying attention when one cat is always doing the licking and the other is simply putting up with it. That kind of one-sided pattern can sometimes point to stress, anxiety, or an uneven social dynamic rather than pure affection. Here are a few signs to watch for: The cat being groomed flattens their ears or pulls their head away They walk off mid-session looking relieved, not relaxed One cat always initiates grooming, never the other way around You notice thinning fur in certain spots from repeated, concentrated licking The licking looks frantic or repetitive rather than slow and settled The recipient shows tension during grooming — tail flicking, a low grumble, or a stiff body Compulsive grooming can be a response to environmental stress. Giving cats a positive outlet for restless energy really does help, and something like a wall climber or activity centre can make a surprising difference to anxious behaviour at home. A little one-sidedness is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about on its own. Most cats settle into their own grooming rhythms over time. But if you’re consistently noticing avoidance, tension, or licking that looks more compulsive than caring, it’s worth keeping a closer eye on things. A chat with your vet or a cat behaviourist can help you figure out what’s going on and how best to support both cats. How to support calm, comfortable cat relationships at home The good news is that most cats in the same household find their own rhythm over time. But there are things you can do to smooth the process along, especially if you have a newer pairing or a cat who seems a little unsettled. Start with space. Cats feel safest when they have somewhere to retreat to that is entirely their own. If your cats share every bed, bowl, and sunny windowsill, tension can quietly build even when everything looks fine on the surface. Giving each cat a dedicated resting spot makes a real difference — not just for their comfort, but for the overall mood of the household. A cosy, enclosed bed works especially well as a personal sanctuary, somewhere a cat can decompress without another wandering in uninvited. If you are looking for something that suits each cat’s individual personality, the Lords & Labradors cat bed collection is well worth a browse. Scratching posts are another simple win. Place them in a few different spots around the home and cats can mark their territory in a way that feels natural and low-conflict, which quietly helps keep the peace without anyone having to step in. When it comes to encouraging closeness, let the cats lead. Grooming and licking will happen on their terms, and that is exactly how it should be. Moving them together when they seem settled apart, or hovering over interactions, can create friction rather than ease it. Step back and trust them. Watching your cats groom each other and genuinely seem at ease together is one of the quiet joys of a multi-cat home. A little support from you goes a long way in helping them get there. Frequently Asked Questions What does it mean if cats lick each other? It usually means they feel comfortable and familiar with each other. Cats often lick one another as part of social grooming, or allogrooming, which helps with bonding, shared scent, and cleaning hard-to-reach spots like the head, ears, and neck. It can also reflect social confidence within the pair. Does the dominant cat groom the other? Sometimes, yes. When one cat regularly starts the grooming, it can show social confidence or that they tend to take the lead in the relationship, not just affection. The bigger picture matters though, as relaxed body language and calm, mutual interactions usually suggest the grooming is comfortable and positive. Is it good when a cat licks another cat? Yes, in most cases it’s a good sign. Cats licking each other is often a normal, reassuring part of social grooming that shows trust, comfort, and bonding. It’s only worth watching more closely if the licking looks frantic, one-sided, or seems to make the other cat tense or uneasy.

By Adele Busby
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21.08.26 August 21, 2026 Owning a Cat

Why Do Cats Chirp at Birds

That strange stuttering sound your cat makes when a bird lands outside is one of those small, delightful mysteries that comes with sharing your home with a cat. In this article, we look at why cats chirp at birds, what the main theories behind the behaviour actually mean, and what your cat’s body language is quietly telling you while it happens. We also cover when to relax and when to pay closer attention, plus some simple ways to make life a little richer for a cat who lives for the windowsill. What does it mean when a cat chirps at birds? If you’ve ever caught your cat glued to the windowsill, eyes locked on a bird outside, making a strange stuttering sound you’ve never quite heard before — you already know what chirping is. It’s one of those moments that stops you mid-cup-of-tea and makes you wonder what on earth is going on in that little head. Cat chirping is a short, rapid, high-pitched sound that sits somewhere between a trill and a stutter. It’s nothing like a meow, which cats tend to save for communicating with us, and it’s worlds away from a yowl or a hiss. You’ll often see it described as chattering too, and the two are closely related. Chattering usually involves that rapid jaw movement — almost like teeth clicking — while chirping is a touch softer and more tonal. Plenty of cats do both at the same time. It tends to happen in a very specific moment: a bird lands on a nearby branch, hops across the garden, or flutters past a favourite window. Your cat spots it, freezes, and out comes that curious little sound. It’s almost always directed outward, at something they can see but can’t reach. So why do cats chirp at birds? It’s worth digging into, because the answer says a lot about how your cat thinks and experiences the world. And if you’re already thinking about ways to keep your bird-obsessed cat happy indoors, we’ve got plenty of ideas to explore. Why do cats chirp at birds? The main theories There’s no single agreed-upon answer to why cats chirp at birds, which makes cat chattering behaviour one of the more intriguing puzzles in feline research. Several compelling theories exist, and honestly, each one tells us something a little different about how cats are wired. Scientists haven’t landed on a definitive explanation yet, so this is very much an open question — and a genuinely fascinating one. Leading theories behind the chirp: Predatory excitement and overstimulation. The moment your cat spots a bird outside, their hunting instincts kick in almost instantly. Cat chattering behaviour is thought to be a physical expression of that intense arousal — a kind of involuntary release when excitement builds faster than it has anywhere to go. Frustration at not being able to reach prey. Sometimes the cat chirping at birds meaning might be surprisingly straightforward: frustration. Your cat can see exactly what they want, but the glass is in the way. That clicking, stuttering sound could be how they process the tension between wanting something and not being able to get it. Instinctive mimicry or prey-luring behaviour. Some researchers suggest cats may imitate bird calls to draw prey closer. It’s an idea supported by observations of wild cats mimicking tamarin monkey calls in the Amazon — compelling, though still unproven in domestic cats. Anticipation mixed with hunting instinct. Why do cats chatter at birds? It may simply be excitement and readiness colliding — your cat mentally rehearsing a hunt they can’t actually go on. Quick insight: This behaviour tends to show up most in indoor cats watching birds through windows. If your cat has a favourite spot to lounge near the glass, they’re probably chirping there regularly. A dedicated cat bed positioned near a window gives them a comfortable perch to watch, chirp, and daydream to their heart’s content. It’s also worth noting that research into cat vocalisation is still evolving. One peer-reviewed study found that domestic cats have a wide vocal repertoire, with up to 21 different vocalizations described in the literature — a reminder that we’re still learning a great deal about how cats communicate. Understanding why cats make chirping noises is reassuring in itself: this behaviour is completely normal and rooted in deep instinct. Keep reading to find out what your cat’s body language is telling you when the chirping starts. What your cat’s body language can tell you Chirping rarely happens on its own. If you’ve ever wondered why do cats chirp at birds, the sound is only one piece of the puzzle. Your cat’s body usually tells you just as much, especially during those long garden-watching sessions from the windowsill. Body language signals to watch for: Tail flicking or lashing – quick flicks often mean intense focus and rising excitement Crouching low – this classic hunting posture shows your cat is fully tuned in Ears forward – a good sign they’re alert and engaged; ears flattening can mean frustration or overstimulation is creeping in Fixed stare – when your cat barely blinks, they’re tracking every flutter and hop Rapid chirping bursts – short, excited sounds often happen when the bird moves suddenly Harmless excitement Signs of overstimulation Soft, steady chirping Loud, frantic chattering Relaxed crouch Stiff, tense posture Gentle tail flicks Fast, forceful tail lashing Taken together, these clues help explain cat chirping at birds meaning a little more clearly. A focused, excited cat is usually just enjoying the thrill of the “hunt” from a safe spot indoors. If the body gets tense and the sounds get more urgent, it may be time for a gentle distraction, like a toy or a quick play session. If you’d like to get better at spotting these cues in pets generally, our guide to reading body language cues in dogs and other animals is a helpful next read. Should you worry if your cat chirps at birds? For most cat owners, chirping at birds is one of those endearing little quirks that makes life with a cat so entertaining. And reassuringly, cat chirping at birds is almost always completely normal — it simply means your cat has clocked something exciting outside and their inner hunter has woken up. Nothing to worry about there. That said, it’s worth knowing what to keep an eye on. Pay a little closer attention if you notice: A sudden change in the sound, especially if it seems more strained or distressed than usual Chirping paired with pacing, hiding, or visible anxiety Repetitive vocalisation with no obvious trigger nearby, like a bird or movement at the window Other changes alongside it, such as a shift in appetite, energy levels, or general mood The short version: occasional chirping is healthy self-expression. Most cats genuinely enjoy the stimulation of watching birds — think of it as their version of a gripping nature documentary. If your cat seems happy, curious, and otherwise completely themselves, there’s very little cause for concern. What matters most is that their day-to-day environment feels calm and enriching. A well-thought-out home setup — including a dedicated cat washroom space where they can retreat and feel settled — can make a real difference to an otherwise content, bird-obsessed cat. How to support a chirpy, bird-watching cat at home If your cat loves nothing more than pressing their nose to the glass and chattering away at every robin and pigeon that dares to land in the garden, the best thing you can do is lean into it. Bird-watching is genuinely enriching for cats, and a few simple tweaks at home can make the whole experience even better for them. Start with a good window spot. Cats want a clear, comfortable view, ideally at height, so they can properly survey their kingdom. A wall-mounted perch like the Lords and Labradors Malmo Viewing Pod gives them a dedicated vantage point to settle in for as long as they like, without monopolising the sofa arm or teetering on a wobbly windowsill. You can also bring a little of the outside in. A bird feeder positioned within sight of a favourite window turns an ordinary afternoon into something genuinely absorbing. Pair that with a cat-safe herb planter on the sill, some rustling foliage nearby, or even a nature documentary playing quietly in the background, and you have got a surprisingly rich little sensory world for them to enjoy. Interactive play is worth building in too. Wand toys with feather attachments are brilliant for letting your cat act on all that pent-up predatory energy from a long chattering session. A short burst of play afterwards can leave them feeling satisfied rather than quietly wound up. Cat chirping at birds is your cat being fully, brilliantly themselves. Your job is simply to give them the best possible seat for the show. Frequently Asked Questions Why does my cat make a chirping sound at birds? Cats usually chirp at birds because seeing prey triggers a burst of hunting excitement. It can also reflect frustration when they can see a bird but cannot reach it through the window. In most cases, it is a completely normal instinctive behaviour, often paired with focused staring, crouching, and tail flicking. Why does my cat make a chirping sound like a bird? Cats often make a bird-like chirping sound when they spot birds or other fast-moving prey outside. The sound is linked to hunting instinct, excitement, anticipation, and sometimes frustration if the prey is out of reach. It is generally a normal feline behaviour, especially during intense window watching.

By Adele Busby
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