How to stop a cat from scratching furniture
15.07.26 July 15, 2026 Owning a Cat

How to stop a cat from scratching furniture

Scratching is one of those things that feels deeply frustrating when it’s your sofa taking the hit, but the good news is that learning how to stop a cat from scratching furniture is far more about smart redirection than strict rules. In this guide, we’ll walk you through why cats scratch, how to make a scratcher genuinely appealing, and simple ways to protect your furniture while your cat builds better habits. From claw care and deterrents to rewards and routine, these are practical steps that actually work in a real home. Why cats scratch furniture in the first place If you have ever come home to find your sofa looking like it lost a fight, you are definitely not alone. Scratching can feel destructive from our side of things, but for cats, it is completely normal behaviour. So, why does my cat scratch furniture in the first place? Usually, it comes down to a few very natural reasons. Scratching helps your cat stretch their whole body, especially their shoulders, back, and legs, which is why you will often see a big scratch after a nap. It also helps remove the outer layer of the claw, keeping it in good condition underneath. There is also the territory side of things. When your cat scratches the arm of the sofa or the stair carpet, they are not being difficult for the sake of it. They are leaving both a visible mark and a scent from glands in their paws. In cat language, that is a clear little message that says, “this is mine.” For some cats, scratching is emotional too. They may do it when they feel excited, overstimulated, unsettled, or even just full of energy. It can be a bit like us stretching, fidgeting, or pacing when we need to release tension. That is why punishment rarely helps. Scratching is not bad behaviour to “fix”, it is a normal instinct to redirect. Understanding that makes a big difference when thinking about how to stop a cat from scratching furniture. The aim is not to stop scratching altogether. It is to give them a better place to do it, like one of these cat trees and scratch posts, and make that option easier and more appealing than the sofa. Cornell University’s Feline Health Center notes that the only guaranteed way to stop a cat from scratching a particular area or object is to restrict access to it, which is rarely practical in a real home. The good news is that with the right setup, you really can stop cat scratching furniture becoming a daily battle. Make the scratching post the easiest option Most scratching posts fail not because cats are stubborn, but because they’re in the wrong place. Location, size, stability, and texture all determine whether your cat actually bothers — get those things right, and you’re most of the way there. Here’s what to think about when choosing and positioning a scratcher: Placement near problem areas or favourite napping spots. Cats scratch when they wake up and when they move through familiar territory. Put the post where the scratching is already happening, not tucked in a corner no one visits. Height and size. Your cat needs to fully extend their body when they scratch. A post that’s too short simply won’t satisfy. Look for something tall enough that they can stretch right up on their hind legs. Stability. One wobble and most cats write it off completely. The post needs to feel solid and secure every single time they use it. Texture preference. Some cats are devoted to sisal, others love cardboard or carpet. If you’re not sure what your cat prefers, try more than one and let them lead. Good to know: Most cats need at least two or three scratchers placed in different rooms. One near the sofa is rarely enough, particularly in a larger home. When you’re trying to redirect scratching away from a specific piece of furniture, place the post directly beside it — almost touching. It feels counterintuitive, but you’re simply meeting your cat where they already are. Once they’re using it reliably, you can gradually shift it somewhere more convenient. A tall, sturdy option like the Lords & Labradors Back to Nature 4-Tier Cat Scratch Post works particularly well for this, giving cats a satisfying full-body stretch in something that won’t tip or shift under their weight. Making the post the obvious, easy choice is one of the most practical steps you can take to stop cats scratching furniture — and it works best when paired with making the sofa a little less tempting at the same time. How to make furniture less tempting While you work on how to stop a cat from scratching furniture, it helps to make the sofa less rewarding in the meantime. These gentle deterrents are best used as a short-term backup, not a punishment. The goal is simply to protect your furniture while you show your cat where you do want them to scratch. Double-sided tape: Many cats dislike the sticky feeling on their paws, so a few strips on the sofa arms or favourite corners can help break the habit. It is harmless, but odd enough to make them pause. Furniture covers and throws: A thick throw, blanket, or fitted cover changes the feel of the surface and protects the fabric underneath. This can be especially helpful if your cat loves one particular arm or cushion corner. Citrus-style deterrent sprays: Many cats dislike citrus scents, so a light mist on favourite scratching spots may help. Always check the label carefully and only use a spray that is clearly marked as cat-safe. Blocking favoured corners: If your cat returns to the same spot every day, try placing a cushion, storage basket, side table, or another pet-safe obstacle in front of it for a while. Even a simple change in access can interrupt the routine. Scratch-deterrent mats: These textured mats attach to or sit against the sofa and make scratching feel less satisfying. They are easy to move if your cat switches to a new target. Quick tip: Deterrents work best when there is a better option right beside them. Put a scratching post or pad next to the area you are protecting, so your cat can immediately make the “right” choice. If you want an extra layer of protection while training, sofa toppers can be a really practical addition. They help shield the spots cats usually target, and they make life feel a lot calmer while everyone settles into a new routine. Trim, file, and care for their claws Trimming your cat’s claws won’t stop them from scratching altogether, but it will make a real difference to the damage they cause. Shorter, blunter claws are far less likely to snag fabric or gouge into wood, so keeping on top of nail care is a genuinely useful piece of the puzzle when you’re trying to stop cat scratching furniture. Start with paw handling. Before you bring out any clippers, spend some time getting your cat comfortable with you touching their paws. A gentle hold during a quiet cuddle is a good place to start — you want it to feel like nothing, not like something to brace for. Use the right clippers. Cat-specific scissor-style or guillotine clippers give you far more control than regular nail scissors, and they make a clean cut without splitting the claw. Find the quick. Hold the paw up to the light and look for a faint pink line running partway down the claw. That’s the quick — cut just below it and you’ll avoid any sensitive tissue. Keep sessions short. One or two claws at a time is absolutely fine, especially while your cat is still getting used to it. There’s no rule that says all four paws have to happen in one sitting. Always finish on a good note. A treat and a bit of fuss at the end goes a long way. Most cats come around faster than you’d expect once there’s something in it for them. Quick tip: For most indoor cats, trimming every two to four weeks is plenty to keep claws in good shape. Having a consistent, calm spot for grooming makes the whole routine feel less like a wrestling match. A dedicated cat washroom or grooming station keeps everything in one place, so you’re not hunting down clippers at the last minute and your cat knows what to expect when you head there together. Use rewards and routine to build a new habit Getting a scratching post in place is a brilliant first step, but it’s the consistent positive reinforcement that turns an occasional scratch into a genuine habit. This is honestly the most important part of learning how to train a cat not to scratch furniture, and the good news is it doesn’t need to be complicated or time-consuming. Guide your cat to the post. Gently carry them over or dangle a toy nearby to draw them in. You’re not forcing anything — just creating the right moment. Reward the second they scratch it. The moment their claws make contact, mark it with a bright “yes!” and follow up with a small treat. Timing really is everything here. Try a little catnip to spark interest. A light sprinkle on or around a plush cat scratch post can make a real difference, particularly for cats who’ve been slow to engage. Finish with a play session nearby. A few minutes with a wand toy next to the post helps build a warm, happy association with the whole area — not just the post itself. Keep it consistent. Right after meals or when your cat first wakes up are ideal windows. Cats are natural creatures of habit, so a predictable routine makes this much easier for both of you. Tip: Aim to reward within two seconds of your cat using the post. Any longer and they won’t connect the treat to what they just did. Most cats show clear progress within a few weeks when you stick with this. Keep sessions short, stay upbeat, and trust the process — the habit will come. When to upgrade your setup and keep the peace Sometimes, despite your best efforts, your cat still makes a beeline for the sofa. Before you feel defeated, it’s worth asking whether your current setup is actually giving them what they need. If they keep ignoring their scratcher, texture is often the culprit. Some cats are devoted sisal fans, others swear by corrugated cardboard, and a few will only scratch carpet. If you’ve only tried one material, experiment with another — it can make a surprisingly big difference. Size matters too. A wobbly post that shifts the moment your cat leans into it isn’t going to win them over. Cats scratch to get a full, satisfying stretch through their whole body, so a scratcher that feels tall and solid enough to do that job properly is far more likely to earn regular use. If you have the wall space, something like the Lords and Labradors Malmo Sling Scratch Wall Climber offers a sturdy vertical option that doubles as a climbing spot — the kind of thing many cats find genuinely hard to resist. Orientation is worth considering too. Not every cat wants to scratch vertically. Some prefer to stretch out horizontally on the floor, so offering both styles helps you land on what your cat actually enjoys. In a multi-cat household, one scratcher almost never cuts it. Cats can be territorial, so dotting a few options around different rooms reduces competition and gives everyone a reliable spot to call their own. The honest truth is that stopping cats from scratching furniture is mostly about building the right environment and sticking with it. With a little patience and the right setup, most cats genuinely do get there. Frequently Asked Questions What scent will deter cats from scratching furniture? Citrus-style scents can help deter some cats from scratching furniture. A light mist of a cat-safe citrus deterrent spray on favourite scratching spots may make the area less appealing, especially if you place a sturdy scratching post right beside it so your cat has a better option. Is furniture scratching a behavioral issue? Not usually — scratching furniture is a normal cat behaviour, not simply bad behaviour. Cats scratch to stretch, maintain their claws, mark territory, and release energy or tension, so the kindest and most effective approach is to redirect that instinct to a suitable scratching post rather than punish it.

By Adele Busby

Read more

Scratching is one of those things that feels deeply frustrating when it’s your sofa taking the hit, but the good news is that learning how to stop a cat from scratching furniture is far more about smart redirection than strict rules. In this guide, we’ll walk you through why cats scratch, how to make a scratcher genuinely appealing, and simple ways to protect your furniture while your cat builds better habits. From claw care and deterrents to rewards and routine, these are practical steps that actually work in a real home.

Why cats scratch furniture in the first place

If you have ever come home to find your sofa looking like it lost a fight, you are definitely not alone. Scratching can feel destructive from our side of things, but for cats, it is completely normal behaviour.

So, why does my cat scratch furniture in the first place? Usually, it comes down to a few very natural reasons. Scratching helps your cat stretch their whole body, especially their shoulders, back, and legs, which is why you will often see a big scratch after a nap. It also helps remove the outer layer of the claw, keeping it in good condition underneath.

There is also the territory side of things. When your cat scratches the arm of the sofa or the stair carpet, they are not being difficult for the sake of it. They are leaving both a visible mark and a scent from glands in their paws. In cat language, that is a clear little message that says, “this is mine.”

For some cats, scratching is emotional too. They may do it when they feel excited, overstimulated, unsettled, or even just full of energy. It can be a bit like us stretching, fidgeting, or pacing when we need to release tension. That is why punishment rarely helps. Scratching is not bad behaviour to “fix”, it is a normal instinct to redirect.

Understanding that makes a big difference when thinking about how to stop a cat from scratching furniture. The aim is not to stop scratching altogether. It is to give them a better place to do it, like one of these cat trees and scratch posts, and make that option easier and more appealing than the sofa.

Cornell University’s Feline Health Center notes that the only guaranteed way to stop a cat from scratching a particular area or object is to restrict access to it, which is rarely practical in a real home. The good news is that with the right setup, you really can stop cat scratching furniture becoming a daily battle.

Make the scratching post the easiest option

Most scratching posts fail not because cats are stubborn, but because they’re in the wrong place. Location, size, stability, and texture all determine whether your cat actually bothers — get those things right, and you’re most of the way there.

Here’s what to think about when choosing and positioning a scratcher:

  • Placement near problem areas or favourite napping spots. Cats scratch when they wake up and when they move through familiar territory. Put the post where the scratching is already happening, not tucked in a corner no one visits.
  • Height and size. Your cat needs to fully extend their body when they scratch. A post that’s too short simply won’t satisfy. Look for something tall enough that they can stretch right up on their hind legs.
  • Stability. One wobble and most cats write it off completely. The post needs to feel solid and secure every single time they use it.
  • Texture preference. Some cats are devoted to sisal, others love cardboard or carpet. If you’re not sure what your cat prefers, try more than one and let them lead.

Good to know: Most cats need at least two or three scratchers placed in different rooms. One near the sofa is rarely enough, particularly in a larger home.

When you’re trying to redirect scratching away from a specific piece of furniture, place the post directly beside it — almost touching. It feels counterintuitive, but you’re simply meeting your cat where they already are. Once they’re using it reliably, you can gradually shift it somewhere more convenient. A tall, sturdy option like the Lords & Labradors Back to Nature 4-Tier Cat Scratch Post works particularly well for this, giving cats a satisfying full-body stretch in something that won’t tip or shift under their weight.

Making the post the obvious, easy choice is one of the most practical steps you can take to stop cats scratching furniture — and it works best when paired with making the sofa a little less tempting at the same time.

How to make furniture less tempting

While you work on how to stop a cat from scratching furniture, it helps to make the sofa less rewarding in the meantime. These gentle deterrents are best used as a short-term backup, not a punishment. The goal is simply to protect your furniture while you show your cat where you do want them to scratch.

  • Double-sided tape: Many cats dislike the sticky feeling on their paws, so a few strips on the sofa arms or favourite corners can help break the habit. It is harmless, but odd enough to make them pause.
  • Furniture covers and throws: A thick throw, blanket, or fitted cover changes the feel of the surface and protects the fabric underneath. This can be especially helpful if your cat loves one particular arm or cushion corner.
  • Citrus-style deterrent sprays: Many cats dislike citrus scents, so a light mist on favourite scratching spots may help. Always check the label carefully and only use a spray that is clearly marked as cat-safe.
  • Blocking favoured corners: If your cat returns to the same spot every day, try placing a cushion, storage basket, side table, or another pet-safe obstacle in front of it for a while. Even a simple change in access can interrupt the routine.
  • Scratch-deterrent mats: These textured mats attach to or sit against the sofa and make scratching feel less satisfying. They are easy to move if your cat switches to a new target.

Quick tip: Deterrents work best when there is a better option right beside them. Put a scratching post or pad next to the area you are protecting, so your cat can immediately make the “right” choice.

If you want an extra layer of protection while training, sofa toppers can be a really practical addition. They help shield the spots cats usually target, and they make life feel a lot calmer while everyone settles into a new routine.

Trim, file, and care for their claws

Trimming your cat’s claws won’t stop them from scratching altogether, but it will make a real difference to the damage they cause. Shorter, blunter claws are far less likely to snag fabric or gouge into wood, so keeping on top of nail care is a genuinely useful piece of the puzzle when you’re trying to stop cat scratching furniture.

  1. Start with paw handling. Before you bring out any clippers, spend some time getting your cat comfortable with you touching their paws. A gentle hold during a quiet cuddle is a good place to start — you want it to feel like nothing, not like something to brace for.
  2. Use the right clippers. Cat-specific scissor-style or guillotine clippers give you far more control than regular nail scissors, and they make a clean cut without splitting the claw.
  3. Find the quick. Hold the paw up to the light and look for a faint pink line running partway down the claw. That’s the quick — cut just below it and you’ll avoid any sensitive tissue.
  4. Keep sessions short. One or two claws at a time is absolutely fine, especially while your cat is still getting used to it. There’s no rule that says all four paws have to happen in one sitting.
  5. Always finish on a good note. A treat and a bit of fuss at the end goes a long way. Most cats come around faster than you’d expect once there’s something in it for them.

Quick tip: For most indoor cats, trimming every two to four weeks is plenty to keep claws in good shape.

Having a consistent, calm spot for grooming makes the whole routine feel less like a wrestling match. A dedicated cat washroom or grooming station keeps everything in one place, so you’re not hunting down clippers at the last minute and your cat knows what to expect when you head there together.

Use rewards and routine to build a new habit

Getting a scratching post in place is a brilliant first step, but it’s the consistent positive reinforcement that turns an occasional scratch into a genuine habit. This is honestly the most important part of learning how to train a cat not to scratch furniture, and the good news is it doesn’t need to be complicated or time-consuming.

  1. Guide your cat to the post. Gently carry them over or dangle a toy nearby to draw them in. You’re not forcing anything — just creating the right moment.
  2. Reward the second they scratch it. The moment their claws make contact, mark it with a bright “yes!” and follow up with a small treat. Timing really is everything here.
  3. Try a little catnip to spark interest. A light sprinkle on or around a plush cat scratch post can make a real difference, particularly for cats who’ve been slow to engage.
  4. Finish with a play session nearby. A few minutes with a wand toy next to the post helps build a warm, happy association with the whole area — not just the post itself.
  5. Keep it consistent. Right after meals or when your cat first wakes up are ideal windows. Cats are natural creatures of habit, so a predictable routine makes this much easier for both of you.

Tip: Aim to reward within two seconds of your cat using the post. Any longer and they won’t connect the treat to what they just did.

Most cats show clear progress within a few weeks when you stick with this. Keep sessions short, stay upbeat, and trust the process — the habit will come.

When to upgrade your setup and keep the peace

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, your cat still makes a beeline for the sofa. Before you feel defeated, it’s worth asking whether your current setup is actually giving them what they need.

If they keep ignoring their scratcher, texture is often the culprit. Some cats are devoted sisal fans, others swear by corrugated cardboard, and a few will only scratch carpet. If you’ve only tried one material, experiment with another — it can make a surprisingly big difference.

Size matters too. A wobbly post that shifts the moment your cat leans into it isn’t going to win them over. Cats scratch to get a full, satisfying stretch through their whole body, so a scratcher that feels tall and solid enough to do that job properly is far more likely to earn regular use. If you have the wall space, something like the Lords and Labradors Malmo Sling Scratch Wall Climber offers a sturdy vertical option that doubles as a climbing spot — the kind of thing many cats find genuinely hard to resist.

Orientation is worth considering too. Not every cat wants to scratch vertically. Some prefer to stretch out horizontally on the floor, so offering both styles helps you land on what your cat actually enjoys.

In a multi-cat household, one scratcher almost never cuts it. Cats can be territorial, so dotting a few options around different rooms reduces competition and gives everyone a reliable spot to call their own.

The honest truth is that stopping cats from scratching furniture is mostly about building the right environment and sticking with it. With a little patience and the right setup, most cats genuinely do get there.

Frequently Asked Questions

What scent will deter cats from scratching furniture?

Citrus-style scents can help deter some cats from scratching furniture. A light mist of a cat-safe citrus deterrent spray on favourite scratching spots may make the area less appealing, especially if you place a sturdy scratching post right beside it so your cat has a better option.

Is furniture scratching a behavioral issue?

Not usually — scratching furniture is a normal cat behaviour, not simply bad behaviour. Cats scratch to stretch, maintain their claws, mark territory, and release energy or tension, so the kindest and most effective approach is to redirect that instinct to a suitable scratching post rather than punish it.

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Beyond that, the best food for kittens is one they’ll actually eat, fits your daily routine, and that you can buy consistently without the stress of it going out of stock. The Lords and Labradors kitten food collection is a good place to see what well-formulated options actually look like. The rest of this guide will help you narrow things down from there. Wet food, dry food, or both: what works best in real life? There’s no single rule that makes one format the best kitten food for every household — and most experienced cat owners will tell you they’ve landed somewhere in the middle. Wet and dry food each bring something genuinely useful to the bowl, and understanding those differences makes the whole decision a lot simpler. Factor Wet Food Dry Food Hydration High moisture content, great for keeping kittens well hydrated Low moisture, so fresh water alongside is essential Texture appeal Soft and easy to chew, ideal for younger kittens Crunchy texture some kittens love, though not all take to it straight away Convenience Best served fresh, so less practical if you’re out all day Easy to portion, stays in the bowl longer, great for measured feeding Cost Typically costs more per serving Usually more economical over time Shelf life Short once opened, usually 24 hours refrigerated Long shelf life, simple to store Combining both is a sensible approach that many vets are happy with, and it works well in practice. Wet kitten food at set mealtimes supports hydration in a really natural way, which matters more than you might think — kittens are notoriously poor water drinkers. Dry food then gives you flexibility around a busy day without worrying about what’s been sitting in the bowl since breakfast. If you’re looking for quality options to build into your kitten’s routine, the wet cat food range is a good place to start. A few practical things to help you find your balance: Offer wet food at set mealtimes and use dry as a flexible top-up during the day Watch how your kitten eats — enthusiasm tells you a lot about what format they prefer If they rarely touch their water bowl, lean further towards wet food Start simple, then adjust as you both settle into a routine How to spot a proper complete kitten food on the label Picking up a bag or pouch that says “kitten” on the front feels reassuring — but that label alone doesn’t guarantee the food is nutritionally complete. Reading a little further takes about thirty seconds and makes a real difference to what ends up in your kitten’s bowl. Look for the word “complete”. You’ll usually find it on the front or back of the pack. That single word confirms the food meets all of your kitten’s nutritional needs on its own, every day. Check the life-stage wording. The label should say “for kittens,” “for growth,” or “for all life stages.” If it only says “for adult cats,” put it back. Find a named animal protein as the first ingredient. Chicken, salmon, or turkey listed first means animal protein leads the recipe, not cereals or vague fillers. Look for an AAFCO or FEDIAF nutritional adequacy statement. This confirms the food has been formulated to meet recognised standards for growing cats, not just cats in general. Think about caloric density. Kittens need significantly more calories per gram of bodyweight than adults do, so food made specifically for growth will reflect this in its nutritional values. Complete vs. complementary, simply put: A complete food provides everything your kitten needs as a standalone meal. A complementary food is designed to be fed alongside something else and can’t do the job alone. Once you know what to look for, spotting the right food takes seconds. The Lords and Labradors cat food range is a solid place to start browsing options that have already done the hard work for you. Feeding amounts, meal frequency, and when to change as they grow Kittens have tiny stomachs and very big appetites for life, so feeding little and often usually works best. Getting the balance right helps support steady growth, a healthy weight, and fewer tummy upsets too. Kitten Feeding Guide by Age Age Meals Per Day General Portion Guidance 8–12 weeks 4–5 Offer small meals and use the feeding guide on your chosen kitten wet food, kitten dry food, or mixed-feeding plan as your starting point 3–6 months 3–4 Increase the total daily amount gradually as your kitten grows, then split it across meals based on the label guidance 6–12 months 2–3 Keep adjusting portions with growth and body condition as your kitten moves towards an adult routine If you feed both wet and dry, remember the daily amount needs balancing across both, not adding a full day’s serving of each. That’s one of the easiest ways to overfeed without meaning to. Practical tips to get it right: Start with the pack guidelines for your kitten’s age and weight, then tweak based on body condition and appetite Weigh your kitten regularly, especially in the first few months when they seem to change overnight Move to fewer meals gradually rather than dropping from four to two in one go Measured dry food is usually easier to manage than topping up the bowl throughout the day If your kitten constantly leaves food, or finishes every meal and still seems hungry, it’s worth reviewing portions If you want a more detailed breakdown, our full kitten feeding guide goes into more detail by age and weight. Even the best kitten food still needs the right portion size. A little attention now makes feeding feel much simpler as your kitten grows. Ingredients, sensitivities, and choosing food your kitten will actually eat Even the most nutritionally complete kitten food is useless if your kitten sniffs it twice and walks off in disgust. Ingredient quality and texture matter — especially for young digestive systems still finding their feet — so it pays to be a little selective from the start. Here’s what to look for in practice: Named meat first. Chicken, salmon, or turkey should sit at the top of the ingredient list. Vague terms like “meat derivatives” usually mean the recipe is cutting corners. Go easy on fillers. Some carbohydrate content is fine, but cereals and plant proteins shouldn’t dominate — particularly in those early months when your kitten is growing fast. Spot the green flags. Firm stools, steady weight gain, a glossy coat, and genuine excitement at mealtimes are all signs a food is genuinely working. Take red flags seriously. Loose stools, bloating, or consistent refusal aren’t things to push through. They’re worth acting on. Respect texture preferences. Some kittens go wild for pâté-style wet food; others want chunks or kitten dry food. Many do well on a mix of both. Follow their lead. Transition slowly. When switching foods, mix old and new over seven to ten days to keep digestive upsets at bay. If your kitten shows recurring signs of sensitivity — loose stools, skin reactions, persistent fussiness — it’s worth exploring sensitive and hypoallergenic cat food formulated for more delicate systems. Finding the right match can take a little trial and error. The best food for kittens is simply the one your individual kitten genuinely thrives on. Which kitten food should you choose? A simple way to decide There’s no single best kitten food that works for every cat and every household — and honestly, accepting that makes the whole decision much easier. What you’re really looking for is something complete and balanced, made with decent ingredients, that your kitten actually wants to eat. Start by thinking practically. Out of the house most of the day? Dry kitten food earns its place because it won’t spoil sitting in the bowl. If your kitten seems lukewarm about food or you want to boost their fluid intake, wet food is a brilliant option — most kittens find it far more tempting. Plenty of cat parents naturally settle into a mix of both over time, and it genuinely works well. From there, it’s fairly straightforward. Choose a food labelled complete for kittens, check that a named protein — chicken, salmon, turkey — sits at the top of the ingredients list, and pick a texture your kitten responds to. Then give it a proper chance before switching. Chopping and changing too soon is one of the most common mistakes new kitten parents make, and it can unsettle a young cat’s digestion faster than almost anything else. If you’re still finding your feet with the basics, our guide on how to prepare for your new kitten is a great place to start. The right food is out there. You don’t need to have it all figured out on day one — you just need to begin.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Why Do Cats Like to Go in Boxes
    31.08.26 August 31, 2026 Owning a Cat

    Why Do Cats Like to Go in Boxes

    If you have ever watched a cat bypass a brand new bed to squeeze into a battered delivery box, you already know that cardboard holds a very particular power over them. This article gets into the real reasons why cats like to go in boxes, from the deep-rooted instincts behind it to the surprising science that explains why boxes can actually make cats feel calmer and more secure. You will also find practical tips for making box time safer at home, plus some cosy alternatives worth knowing about. Why do cats like to go in boxes? The short answer If you have ever set down an empty delivery box and watched your cat claim it within seconds, you already know that cats and cardboard share a very special relationship. But why do cats like to go in boxes so reliably — regardless of age, personality, or how many perfectly good beds they have completely ignored? The honest answer comes down to instinct. Cats are both predators and prey, which means they are hardwired to seek out small, enclosed spaces where they feel hidden, secure, and in control. A box delivers all of that at once. It is basically the feline version of a perfect afternoon. But there is more to it than simple survival instinct. Cardboard retains warmth, which cats are naturally drawn to. Boxes offer novelty, which keeps curious, intelligent animals happily occupied. And research has actually shown that access to a box can meaningfully lower stress levels in cats, especially when they are adjusting to a new or unsettling environment. So if your cat has commandeered every online delivery since you started shopping from home, they are not just being theatrical. They are following a deeply rooted urge that feels safe, satisfying, and entirely natural to them. This article unpacks all of it — from the science behind why cats are attracted to boxes to practical ways you can lean into the behaviour at home. And if you want to go a step further, you can explore our full range of cat essentials for even more ways to keep your cat comfortable and content. How boxes make cats feel safe, hidden, and in control One of the clearest answers to why cats like to go in boxes lies in how perfectly a box suits their dual nature as both predator and prey. Inside a box, a cat can watch everything happening in the room while staying completely hidden. That combination of visibility and cover is deeply wired into how cats experience the world. Reduced sensory overwhelm: Enclosed spaces filter out visual noise and movement, helping cats feel calmer in busier households. Monitoring without exposure: A cat in a box can track people, other pets, and sounds without putting itself in a vulnerable position. Ambush readiness: Even the most pampered indoor cat still carries those hunting instincts. A box keeps them poised and ready, even if the “prey” turns out to be a passing sock. A sense of boundary and control: Cats feel safest when they can define their own space. A box creates a clear perimeter that feels entirely theirs. Instinct, not stubbornness: That moment when your cat bypasses a plush bed to squeeze into the tiniest cardboard box in the room? That’s not cheek. That’s instinct telling them that smaller means safer. Enclosed spaces give cats something open rooms simply cannot: a genuine sense of control over their environment. If your cat gravitates toward boxes and tight corners, they’re not being awkward — they’re following instincts that go back thousands of years. Our High Wall Bouclé Cat Bed is built with exactly that in mind, with raised, defined sides that recreate the sheltered, secure feeling cats love about boxes — just a little more comfortable for everyone involved. What the Leiden University stress study found about boxes and feline stress There is some genuine science behind why cats like to go in boxes. A well-known study from Leiden University looked at newly arrived shelter cats and found that simple hiding boxes seemed to help them cope better with the stress of a big change. That matters because shelters are full of unfamiliar smells, sounds, and routines. For a cat, that can feel overwhelming. In the study, cats with access to a box generally showed lower stress scores and appeared to settle more quickly than cats without one. In other words, the box was not just somewhere to sit. It gave the cat a safe, contained space to retreat to while taking in a new environment. A few easy takeaways from the research: Cats with a hiding box appeared to adapt more quickly in a stressful setting A small, enclosed space may help cats feel safer and more in control Hiding can be a normal coping behaviour, not something “bad” that needs stopping The idea is useful beyond shelters too, especially for new kittens, house moves, or changes in routine The big lesson is simple: when cats can choose to tuck themselves away, they often feel more secure. That helps explain why cats like boxes so much in the first place. At home, that does not have to mean leaving delivery boxes all over the hallway, although many cats would be thrilled with that. A cardboard box, covered bed, or snug hideaway can all offer a similar sense of comfort. If your cat likes cosy places to curl up out of sight, our cat beds collection is a helpful place to start. Why cardboard boxes are so irresistible: texture, warmth, and novelty Part of understanding why cats like to go in boxes comes down to the material itself. Cardboard ticks several boxes at once (pun very much intended), offering a mix of sensory rewards that are genuinely hard to resist. It’s rarely just one thing pulling them in. Natural insulation: Cardboard traps body heat surprisingly well, creating a snug little pocket of warmth that feels immediately comforting to a cat settling in for a nap. Scratch-friendly texture: The surface is satisfying to knead and scratch, giving cats a natural outlet for an instinct they act on every single day. Novelty and mental stimulation: A new box arriving in the house is basically an event. Exploring it engages their curiosity and gives their brain a small but meaningful workout. Muffled acoustics: The walls absorb surrounding sound, softening the environment and helping cats feel calmer and less overstimulated. Familiar, neutral scent: Cardboard carries no strong or threatening smells, which makes it feel safe and approachable from the very first sniff. Put all of that together and it’s easy to see why cat behaviour in boxes makes so much sense. Warm, tactile, quiet, and interesting all at once — it’s a pretty compelling combination. If you want to make a box even more inviting, try tucking in one of our soft cat blankets to layer up the warmth and comfort your cat is already searching for. How to use boxes safely and keep the fun going at home Giving your cat a cardboard box to explore is one of the easiest wins in pet parenting, but a little prep goes a long way. Before you set one down, check it over properly. Remove any staples, packing tape, or sharp folded edges that could catch a paw or scratch a nose, and give it a quick sniff while you’re at it. Boxes that have held cleaning products or heavily scented goods are best left in the recycling. Once it passes the check, placement matters more than you might expect. Tuck it somewhere quiet, away from busy hallways or noisy appliances. Cats are drawn to boxes because they feel hidden and in control, so dropping one in the middle of a well-trafficked room rather misses the point. It’s also worth keeping an eye on chewing. Most cats will sniff, knead, and generally make themselves at home without much drama, but if yours is tearing off chunks and swallowing them, it’s time to swap things out for something safer. When you want a longer-lasting version of the same comfort, cat tunnels, enclosed hideaway beds, and soft-sided dens deliver everything a cardboard box does: warmth, shelter, and that deeply satisfying tucked-in feeling. They’re washable, sturdier, and far tidier to have around the house. The instinct behind why cats like to go in boxes stays exactly the same. You’re just giving it a proper home. Frequently Asked Questions Why does my cat prefer the box over the toy inside it? The box satisfies a stronger, more deeply rooted instinct: shelter and concealment than almost any toy can compete with. Is it bad for my cat to sleep in a box all the time? Not inherently, but make sure they still have access to fresh water, food, and a litter tray nearby, and that the box is clean, dry, and free of sharp edges or packaging debris. Do kittens like boxes too? Yes. Often, even more than adult cats, since boxes double as a place to play, pounce, and practise hiding behaviours from a very young age.

    By Adele Busby

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  • Why Do Cats Lick Each Other
    26.08.26 August 26, 2026 Owning a Cat

    Why Do Cats Lick Each Other

    Watching two cats curl up and wash each other is one of those small, lovely moments that makes a multi-cat home feel just right. This guide looks at why do cats lick each other, from the social bonds and shared scents behind allogrooming to the times when one-sided licking might be worth a closer look. You’ll also find practical tips on setting up your home so your cats can feel calm, comfortable, and genuinely at ease together. Why do cats lick each other? A quick look at cat grooming If you’ve ever caught your cats curled up together, giving each other a careful wash, it’s natural to wonder why do cats lick each other when they can groom themselves just fine. In most cases, it’s a lovely, normal part of cat grooming behavior called social grooming. When cats groom each other, they’re not just tidying up. They’re building trust, sharing comfort, and showing that they feel relaxed enough to be close. You’ll often notice them licking around the head, ears, or neck, which are tricky spots to clean alone. So yes, there’s a practical side, but the bigger message is usually affection and bonding. This starts early. Mother cats lick their kittens to clean them, soothe them, and help them feel secure. As cats grow, that same behaviour can carry into adult relationships, which helps explain why cats lick each other’s fur when they’ve formed a strong bond at home. So if your two cats take turns grooming on the sofa or after a nap in their favourite bed, it’s usually a reassuring sign. They likely see each other as part of the same social group. If you’re also helping cats and dogs live happily together, our guide on how to get your dog and cat to get along may help. What allogrooming means in a cat household If you’ve ever caught one cat carefully washing another’s ears and wondered why do cats lick each other so intently, you’re looking at allogrooming. It’s simply the name for one cat grooming another, and it’s a very normal part of life in many multi-cat homes. So, why do cats groom each other in the first place? Usually, it comes down to familiarity, comfort, and living closely together. It helps build bonds. Grooming can be a calming, rewarding social interaction for cats, so doing it regularly may help strengthen their connection over time. It creates a shared scent. When cats lick each other’s fur, they mix their scents together. That shared smell helps them recognise one another as part of the same social group. It helps with hard-to-reach areas. The top of the head, around the ears, and the neck are awkward spots for a cat to clean alone, so a friendly housemate can step in. It can keep the peace. In some pairs or groups, grooming seems to help smooth over small tensions and make everyone feel more settled. It shows trust. Cats are vulnerable when they’re being groomed, so allowing another cat close in that way is often one of the loveliest cat affection signs to spot at home. In a happy cat household, allogrooming often becomes part of the daily rhythm. It’s one of those little cat grooming behavior clues that can tell you your cats feel safe, familiar, and comfortable with each other. Is it about love, hierarchy, or both? The honest answer is that cat grooming behavior is rarely just one thing. When cats lick each other, it can absolutely be about affection, but it can also reflect who feels more confident, settled, or socially comfortable in the pair. So if you’ve ever wondered why do cats lick each other, the answer is often both love and social structure. Cats may groom one another to: strengthen a bond they already feel secure in calm things down after a brief wobble or disagreement share scent and reinforce a familiar group feeling at home show social confidence, especially when one cat usually starts the grooming comfort a companion they know well, including a sibling or long-time housemate That’s why cat grooming behavior can look very sweet on the surface while still telling you something about the relationship underneath. One cat licking the other’s head or neck, for example, may be gentle and affectionate, but it can also show which cat tends to take the lead socially. Worth knowing: one study on close-contact inter-cat interactions found that cats can show both affiliative and agonistic behaviors, so grooming may sit alongside tension rather than always meaning pure affection. In other words, why do cats groom each other is not always a simple romance story. In a calm, well-set-up home, with enough space and resources like a cat scratch post, you’re more likely to see the relaxed, easy kind of grooming most pet parents hope for. When one cat does all the licking: signs it may be stress, not just affection Mutual grooming is usually a lovely sign that your cats feel safe and bonded together. But it’s worth paying attention when one cat is always doing the licking and the other is simply putting up with it. That kind of one-sided pattern can sometimes point to stress, anxiety, or an uneven social dynamic rather than pure affection. Here are a few signs to watch for: The cat being groomed flattens their ears or pulls their head away They walk off mid-session looking relieved, not relaxed One cat always initiates grooming, never the other way around You notice thinning fur in certain spots from repeated, concentrated licking The licking looks frantic or repetitive rather than slow and settled The recipient shows tension during grooming — tail flicking, a low grumble, or a stiff body Compulsive grooming can be a response to environmental stress. Giving cats a positive outlet for restless energy really does help, and something like a wall climber or activity centre can make a surprising difference to anxious behaviour at home. A little one-sidedness is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about on its own. Most cats settle into their own grooming rhythms over time. But if you’re consistently noticing avoidance, tension, or licking that looks more compulsive than caring, it’s worth keeping a closer eye on things. A chat with your vet or a cat behaviourist can help you figure out what’s going on and how best to support both cats. How to support calm, comfortable cat relationships at home The good news is that most cats in the same household find their own rhythm over time. But there are things you can do to smooth the process along, especially if you have a newer pairing or a cat who seems a little unsettled. Start with space. Cats feel safest when they have somewhere to retreat to that is entirely their own. If your cats share every bed, bowl, and sunny windowsill, tension can quietly build even when everything looks fine on the surface. Giving each cat a dedicated resting spot makes a real difference — not just for their comfort, but for the overall mood of the household. A cosy, enclosed bed works especially well as a personal sanctuary, somewhere a cat can decompress without another wandering in uninvited. If you are looking for something that suits each cat’s individual personality, the Lords & Labradors cat bed collection is well worth a browse. Scratching posts are another simple win. Place them in a few different spots around the home and cats can mark their territory in a way that feels natural and low-conflict, which quietly helps keep the peace without anyone having to step in. When it comes to encouraging closeness, let the cats lead. Grooming and licking will happen on their terms, and that is exactly how it should be. Moving them together when they seem settled apart, or hovering over interactions, can create friction rather than ease it. Step back and trust them. Watching your cats groom each other and genuinely seem at ease together is one of the quiet joys of a multi-cat home. A little support from you goes a long way in helping them get there. Frequently Asked Questions What does it mean if cats lick each other? It usually means they feel comfortable and familiar with each other. Cats often lick one another as part of social grooming, or allogrooming, which helps with bonding, shared scent, and cleaning hard-to-reach spots like the head, ears, and neck. It can also reflect social confidence within the pair. Does the dominant cat groom the other? Sometimes, yes. When one cat regularly starts the grooming, it can show social confidence or that they tend to take the lead in the relationship, not just affection. The bigger picture matters though, as relaxed body language and calm, mutual interactions usually suggest the grooming is comfortable and positive. Is it good when a cat licks another cat? Yes, in most cases it’s a good sign. Cats licking each other is often a normal, reassuring part of social grooming that shows trust, comfort, and bonding. It’s only worth watching more closely if the licking looks frantic, one-sided, or seems to make the other cat tense or uneasy.

    By Adele Busby

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