Top 10 Dog Plush Toys - Our Favourite Soft Toys For Dogs
Last week we started a new series of blog posts talking about different categories of dog toy and our favourite toys within those categories. Last week we talked about squeaky toys, but this week we thought we’d look at soft plush toys for dogs. There are a plethora of plush toys out there that offer different play options. We like soft toys as they give your pup something to have fun with when they’re feeling excitable, but also something to cuddle at nap time when playing has worn them out. There are soft toys for dogs in all shapes and sizes to suit all kinds of dogs from puppies to senior dogs.
Our Favourite Plush Toys For Dogs
KONG Patches Cordz Kangaroo - How adorable is this Kangaroo shaped dog toy? It’s made of a number of different fabrics each with a different texture. Your dog will enjoy exploring the various textures and the floppy arms and legs. There’s even a large squeaker inside for added playtime fun. It’s ideal for cuddling up to or for gentle games of indoor fetch.
Tweed Bone Soft Toy - This is a toy made here in our workshop. The ideal dog toy for those who don’t want a squeaker. It is made of luxury tweed so will look stylish in your dog’s bed or crate and will offer a soft cushioned cuddle at bedtime. We can personalise them too, so if you’re looking for a special present for a dog this could be just the thing!
HuggleHounds Plush Monkey - This super cute dog soft toy has a body made from knots which is good for chewers. The floppy body makes it a good toy for various forms of play including fetch. If you have a dog who likes to carry their toys around, perhaps a Labrador, then this is ideal as the floppy limbs make it perfect for holding in the mouth. Available in two sizes - the larger one being perfect for Labradors and large sized breeds.
All for Paws Classic Squirrel - This is a life-like soft toy and will bring out your dog’s instinct to hunt small animals. The outside features thick faux fur and the inside has a squeaker. Ideal for interactive entertainment!
KONG Cozie Ali Aligator - We chose this as one of our top plush toys for dogs as it has the softest outer body ever. Your dog will absolutely love snuggling up to this at bedtime. Despite the soft nature of the outer body, it has a layer of material inside for added strength and can withstand some chewing. A large sized plush toy perfect for large breed puppies and adult dogs.
KONG Softseas Octopus - This toy is simply adorable. A cute octopus made of soft faux fur fabric with added squeaker and crinkly inner. Your dog will enjoy carrying this around and thrashing during play, then snuggling up to if for a nap
FuzzYard Unicorn Potion - We all need a little bit of magic in our lives at the moment and this Unicorn Potion dog toy will do just that. A lovely novelty toy for dogs with a squeaker inside for added enticement.
Animal Instincts Snow Mate Reggie Rock Hopper - If you’re looking for a plush animal toy that looks like the real thing then this penguin soft toy for dogs might be just the thing. A large soft toy with squeaky inner, it is ideal for games of indoor fetch and retrieve.
Favourite Plush Toys For Puppies
Many of the toys above come in more than one size, some which are suitable for puppies. But there are one or two plush toys that we particularly love for puppies in particular . Here are our favourite puppy plush toys:
Little Buddy Heartbeat Sheep - This is more than just a plush toy, but will give puppy the feeling of being with Mum. It features a heartbeat sensation which will offer the most comforting hug to new puppies. It’s the ideal toy to buy for new puppies and will stay with them for a long time to come. Ideal for calming nervous new pups.
Small Bite Lamb - Puppies love to snuggle and nap. This Small Bite Lamb is a wonderful first soft toy for little ones. It has a soft squeaker inside to encourage play and the soft outer will give snuggly cuddles when bedtime calls.
KONG Knots Carnival Lion - Puppies will soon start their teething phase and chewing will become a daily occurrence. This KONG plush toy with knotted inner will give them the chance to sate both their chewing desires and their cuddling needs. An adorable little lion in soft pastel colours.
Last week we started a new series of blog posts talking about different categories of dog toy and our favourite toys within those categories. Last week we talked about squeaky toys, but this week we thought we’d look at soft plush toys for dogs. There are a plethora of plush toys out there that offer different play options. We like soft toys as they give your pup something to have fun with when they’re feeling excitable, but also something to cuddle at nap time when playing has worn them out. There are soft toys for dogs in all shapes and sizes to suit all kinds of dogs from puppies to senior dogs.
Our Favourite Plush Toys For Dogs
KONG Patches Cordz Kangaroo - How adorable is this Kangaroo shaped dog toy? It’s made of a number of different fabrics each with a different texture. Your dog will enjoy exploring the various textures and the floppy arms and legs. There’s even a large squeaker inside for added playtime fun. It’s ideal for cuddling up to or for gentle games of indoor fetch.
Tweed Bone Soft Toy - This is a toy made here in our workshop. The ideal dog toy for those who don’t want a squeaker. It is made of luxury tweed so will look stylish in your dog’s bed or crate and will offer a soft cushioned cuddle at bedtime. We can personalise them too, so if you’re looking for a special present for a dog this could be just the thing!
HuggleHounds Plush Monkey - This super cute dog soft toy has a body made from knots which is good for chewers. The floppy body makes it a good toy for various forms of play including fetch. If you have a dog who likes to carry their toys around, perhaps a Labrador, then this is ideal as the floppy limbs make it perfect for holding in the mouth. Available in two sizes - the larger one being perfect for Labradors and large sized breeds.
All for Paws Classic Squirrel - This is a life-like soft toy and will bring out your dog’s instinct to hunt small animals. The outside features thick faux fur and the inside has a squeaker. Ideal for interactive entertainment!
KONG Cozie Ali Aligator - We chose this as one of our top plush toys for dogs as it has the softest outer body ever. Your dog will absolutely love snuggling up to this at bedtime. Despite the soft nature of the outer body, it has a layer of material inside for added strength and can withstand some chewing. A large sized plush toy perfect for large breed puppies and adult dogs.
KONG Softseas Octopus - This toy is simply adorable. A cute octopus made of soft faux fur fabric with added squeaker and crinkly inner. Your dog will enjoy carrying this around and thrashing during play, then snuggling up to if for a nap
FuzzYard Unicorn Potion - We all need a little bit of magic in our lives at the moment and this Unicorn Potion dog toy will do just that. A lovely novelty toy for dogs with a squeaker inside for added enticement.
Animal Instincts Snow Mate Reggie Rock Hopper - If you’re looking for a plush animal toy that looks like the real thing then this penguin soft toy for dogs might be just the thing. A large soft toy with squeaky inner, it is ideal for games of indoor fetch and retrieve.
Favourite Plush Toys For Puppies
Many of the toys above come in more than one size, some which are suitable for puppies. But there are one or two plush toys that we particularly love for puppies in particular . Here are our favourite puppy plush toys:
Little Buddy Heartbeat Sheep - This is more than just a plush toy, but will give puppy the feeling of being with Mum. It features a heartbeat sensation which will offer the most comforting hug to new puppies. It’s the ideal toy to buy for new puppies and will stay with them for a long time to come. Ideal for calming nervous new pups.
Small Bite Lamb - Puppies love to snuggle and nap. This Small Bite Lamb is a wonderful first soft toy for little ones. It has a soft squeaker inside to encourage play and the soft outer will give snuggly cuddles when bedtime calls.
KONG Knots Carnival Lion - Puppies will soon start their teething phase and chewing will become a daily occurrence. This KONG plush toy with knotted inner will give them the chance to sate both their chewing desires and their cuddling needs. An adorable little lion in soft pastel colours.
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If you have ever looked down at your hands after a play session and wondered why puppies bite so much, the good news is that you are dealing with one of the most normal things a puppy can do. In this article we cover the real reasons behind all that mouthing and nipping, how to teach your puppy to be gentler, and the simplest ways to redirect their energy to something more appropriate. We also help you recognise the moments when a little extra support from a vet or trainer might be worth reaching for.
Why puppies bite so much in the first place
If your puppy seems to bite everything and everyone in sight, you are not alone — and your puppy is not broken. Biting and mouthing are completely normal parts of early development, and once you understand why it happens, the whole thing feels a lot less stressful.
The simplest way to think about it: a puppy’s mouth is their hands. Before they can explore, play, or communicate in any other way, they use their teeth. That table leg, your favourite jumper, your fingers at 7am before you’ve even had a coffee. All completely fair game as far as they’re concerned.
A few things drive all that mouthing. Teething is a big one. Between roughly three and six months old, puppies are cutting new teeth, and chewing brings real relief from the discomfort. Then there’s play. Puppies learn how to interact through rough and tumble with their littermates, and they naturally bring that same energy into life with you. They’re also figuring out how hard they can actually bite, a process known as bite inhibition. When a sibling yelps and backs away, a puppy learns that biting too hard ends the fun. It’s a genuinely important life skill, and they need the chance to practise it.
It’s also worth saying plainly: a puppy who bites a lot is not naughty or aggressive. They’re being a puppy, doing exactly what puppies are built to do at this stage.
Understanding that is half the battle. The other half is making sure they have the right things to chew, play with, and explore from the very beginning.
Teething, play, and overstimulation: the most common triggers
Most owners asking why puppies bite so much will find the answer sitting in one of three places: teething discomfort, play instinct, or a puppy who has simply had too much going on. Once you know which trigger you’re dealing with, the behaviour starts to make a lot more sense.
Common triggers to watch for:
Evening zoomies followed by frantic nipping — an overtired puppy loses self-control fast, just like a toddler past their bedtime
Mouthing during tug or fetch games — play drive kicks in and your hands become part of the fun
Nibbling after a busy socialisation session — too much stimulation leaves puppies wired and struggling to settle
Chewing fingers and furniture around 12 to 20 weeks — incoming adult teeth cause real discomfort, and puppies chew to relieve it
Nipping when you reach down to stroke them — excitement and touch combine into a grabby, mouthy moment
Biting during training sessions that run too long — concentration runs out and frustration takes over
Worth knowing: Puppies start losing their baby teeth from around 12 weeks, with most adult teeth coming through between 12 and 24 weeks. This is one of the most intense periods for puppy teething, and it often explains why your puppy seems to be nipping constantly at this stage.
Recognising these trigger moments is genuinely half the battle when it comes to how to stop puppy biting. The behaviour is completely normal at this age and usually peaks before gradually fading as your puppy matures. Keeping a good selection of puppy toys within easy reach means you can redirect quickly the moment you spot a trigger building — before teeth find your hands instead.
How to teach bite inhibition without upsetting your puppy
Bite inhibition sounds technical, but it really just means teaching your puppy that human skin is off-limits — and it is absolutely something they can learn. Understanding why puppies bite so much makes this easier, because you know it is not bad behaviour, just communication. Calm, consistent training works brilliantly here, with no raised voices or startled pups required.
Stop play the moment teeth touch skin. Go completely still and quiet. Avoid pulling your hand away sharply, as that can actually make the whole thing more exciting for your puppy.
Use a simple, neutral cue like “ouch” or “too much” in a calm, flat tone. You are not telling them off, just letting them know the fun has paused.
Redirect to a chew toy within a few seconds. Offer it calmly and let your puppy settle into it. This gives them something appropriate to sink their teeth into.
Reward gentle mouthing or soft contact with quiet praise or a small treat. You are reinforcing what you do want, not just reacting to what you do not.
Keep it consistent across the whole household. Every person, every time.
A quick note on consistency: Mixed signals from different family members are one of the most common reasons puppy biting stages feel like they drag on. If one person lets the puppy mouth their hands during a play session, the lesson starts to unravel. Everyone needs to follow the same approach.
The goal is never punishment. It is clear, kind communication. When you understand why puppies bite, you can respond in a way that works with how they naturally learn — and that makes the whole process faster and far less stressful for everyone involved.
What to do instead: redirecting to toys and setting your puppy up for success
Once you understand why puppies bite so much, the solution gets a lot clearer: they need something better to sink their teeth into. Redirection is one of the most effective tools you have, and with a little consistency, it genuinely works.
Swap immediately, not eventually. The moment teeth touch skin or clothing, calmly remove your hand and offer a toy instead. No drama, no delay. The swap itself is the lesson.
Use cooling chews for teething relief. During a heavy teething stage, a chilled rubber chew can make a real difference. Pop it in the freezer for an hour before play and let the cold do the soothing work.
Reach for the right toy. Lords & Labradors puppy toys are designed with teething puppies in mind, with textures and resistance that actually satisfy the urge to gnaw. A toy that feels good to chew is one that gets used.
Keep play sessions structured. Short, calm sessions are your friend. Overstimulation turns even the gentlest puppies mouthy, so watch for the signs and wind things down before they tip over the edge.
Build in calm-down breaks. If your puppy is too fired up to redirect, a quiet pause in their crate or pen gives them a chance to reset.
Every redirect counts: puppies learn through repetition, so the more consistently you make the swap, the faster it sticks.
Setting your puppy up for success really comes down to managing their environment and energy before biting becomes the default outlet. Keep appropriate chews within easy reach, keep play sessions manageable, and trust that small, consistent moments genuinely add up.
When normal mouthing becomes a problem worth getting help for
Most puppy biting is completely normal, and with consistency, it does ease off. But it’s worth pausing every now and then to ask whether something more might be going on.
If your puppy’s biting still feels relentless after weeks of calm, consistent redirection, it’s worth talking to a qualified trainer. The same applies if bites are regularly hard and don’t seem connected to play, if your puppy snaps when anyone goes near their food, toys, or bed, or if their reactions feel more fearful than excited. None of that makes them a bad puppy. It just means you’d both benefit from a little extra support.
Pain is worth considering too. Teething can make puppies genuinely sore and out of sorts, and some pups bite more simply because they’re uncomfortable. If your puppy seems distressed beyond the usual nipping and wriggling, a quick vet check is a sensible place to start.
One of the most useful things you can do in the meantime is learn to read what your puppy is telling you before the biting even begins. Spotting the early signals makes it so much easier to respond well. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a really helpful starting point.
And here’s the reassuring bit: for the vast majority of puppies, the biting does pass. With patience, the right toys, and a bit of guidance, most pups grow into gentle, settled dogs who’ve figured out how to use their mouths kindly.
Knowing how long puppies can walk is one of those questions that sounds simple until you are actually standing at the front door with an excitable eight-week-old and no idea how far to go. The answer depends on age, breed, size, and how well you learn to read your puppy’s cues along the way. This guide breaks it all down, from a handy age-by-age walking chart to practical tips for building up distance safely as your puppy grows.
How long can puppies walk? A simple guide for new puppy parents
One of the first things new puppy parents want to know is how long their puppy should be walking each day. It feels like it should have a simple answer. But watch a ten-week-old Labrador tear around the garden and you might assume he could handle anything — when in reality, how long puppies can walk safely has very little to do with how much energy they seem to have.
Age matters most, but breed, size, and overall fitness all shape the picture too. A four-month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has very different needs to a four-month-old Golden Retriever, even if both are equally determined to sniff every blade of grass along the way.
The most widely used starting point is the five-minutes-per-month rule: five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy, then, would walk for around 15 minutes at a time. It is not a rigid law, but it exists for good reason. Puppies have soft, still-developing growth plates in their bones, and too much repetitive exercise before those plates close can cause real, lasting joint damage. A puppy who seems full of energy is not necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for long walks.
This is especially worth keeping in mind in those early weeks, when everything is new and you are still finding your rhythm together. If you are just bringing your puppy home for the first time, walks are only one small part of what lies ahead — and there is absolutely no rush to do too much, too soon.
The five-minutes-per-month rule, plus a handy age-based walking guide
The five-minutes-per-month rule is one of the most widely shared pieces of puppy advice, and honestly, it’s earned its reputation. It gives you a simple, sensible starting point for figuring out how long puppies can walk at each stage of development. The idea is beautifully straightforward: allow five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy gets around 15 minutes per session; by five months, you’re looking at closer to 25.
Puppy Age
Max Walk Duration (Per Session)
Notes
8 weeks
5 minutes
Short sniff-and-explore outings only. Very gentle to start.
3 months
15 minutes
Two short walks daily is plenty. Prioritise new sights and smells over distance.
4 months
20 minutes
Puppy walking distance starts to increase slowly. Watch for signs of tiring.
5 months
25 minutes
Confidence usually grows here. Keep surfaces soft where possible.
6 months
30 minutes
Still very much a puppy, whatever their size might suggest.
9 months
45 minutes
Larger breeds especially need restraint. Growth plates are still developing.
12 months
45–60 minutes
Smaller breeds may be ready for longer walks. Always assess individually.
Good to Know: This formula is a guide, not gospel. Breed size plays a big role. Giant breeds like Great Danes may actually need less than the formula suggests, because their growth plates take longer to close. And every puppy is different — some flag earlier than you’d expect, while others seem to have boundless energy regardless. Let your individual pup lead the way.
When puppies can go for long walks really depends on breed and development, but most are ready for more substantial exercise somewhere between 12 and 18 months. Worth noting too: conditions like cold weather can cut any walk short, whatever the age. Our guide to walking your dog in cold weather is worth bookmarking before the temperature drops.
No formula replaces actually watching your puppy. If they’re lagging behind, flopping down mid-pavement, or suddenly very interested in stopping — that’s your cue to turn for home.
Why some puppies need less — or more — walking than others
The five-minute rule gives you a brilliant starting point, but every puppy is different. Breed, body shape, and a handful of other factors all influence how long your puppy can safely walk — so it’s worth looking beyond age alone before you lace up your trainers.
Breed size and growth rate: Larger breeds like Labradors and Golden Retrievers grow faster and carry more weight through their joints, making them more vulnerable to overexertion than smaller breeds at the same age.
Flat-faced breeds: Bulldogs, Pugs, and French Bulldogs overheat and tire more quickly due to restricted airways, so their walks often need to be shorter and slower.
Short-legged breeds: Dachshunds and Basset Hounds have a different skeletal structure that puts extra pressure on their spines and limbs, especially on uneven ground.
Weather and heat: Puppies struggle to regulate their temperature, so on warmer days it’s worth keeping walks shorter and heading out earlier in the morning before the heat builds.
Terrain: Rough, hilly, or slippery surfaces demand far more effort than a flat pavement stroll, even if the distance looks the same on paper.
General health: Any illness, recent vaccination, or growth-related condition can change what your puppy can comfortably handle on a given day.
One thing that catches a lot of new puppy parents off guard: a puppy who seems full of energy isn’t necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for more. Growth plates — the soft areas of developing bone — remain vulnerable to stress injury well into adolescence, long after your puppy looks completely tireless. Bouncy behaviour isn’t a green light to go further.
Getting this balance right early really does pay off. Tailoring walks to your individual puppy’s needs protects their joints through the most critical window of development, and building a thoughtful routine now sets them up for a happy, active adult life. That investment in regular exercise only becomes more rewarding as they grow.
How to build up your puppy’s walks without overdoing it
Building up walks gradually is one of the kindest things you can do for a growing puppy. It takes a little patience, but the principle is simple: start small, add time slowly, and let your puppy’s body set the pace. Their joints and growth plates are still developing, and pushing too far too soon can cause real, lasting harm.
Start short and stay consistent. Begin with just 5 to 10 minutes per outing, even if your puppy looks ready to run a marathon.
Increase time gradually. Add a few minutes each week rather than making big jumps. Puppy exercise by age should always feel comfortable and well within their limits.
Build in rest breaks. Let your puppy sniff, sit, or simply take a breather. That is not wasted time — it is part of the walk.
Mix things up. A short training stop, a good sniff of the hedgerow, or a gentle play moment all count toward mental and physical enrichment. How much exercise a puppy needs goes well beyond steps.
Choose soft ground where you can. Grass and earth are much kinder on young joints than pavement, particularly for bigger breeds.
Signs your puppy has had enough
Lagging behind or pulling toward home
Sitting or lying down mid-walk
Heavy or laboured panting
Limping or favouring a leg
Reluctance to move forward
How far puppies can walk matters far less than how well they recover afterwards. Quality always beats distance. Long walks will come — you will know your puppy is ready when they bounce home looking like they could do it all again. If you have just welcomed a new puppy and want to get the basics right from the start, our bringing a new puppy home guide is a great place to begin.
Off-lead or on-lead: what’s best for puppy walks right now?
For young puppies, on-lead walking is almost always the safer choice — and not just for the obvious traffic reasons. Walking on the lead teaches your puppy to move calmly beside you, builds focus, and helps them take in the big, noisy world without getting completely overwhelmed. It also keeps distance in check. A puppy charging after every smell, stranger, or squirrel is covering far more ground than it looks, which can quietly tip into too much exercise for joints that are still developing.
That said, off-lead time absolutely has its place. Secure, enclosed spaces where your puppy can sniff freely and potter about at their own pace offer something a structured walk simply can’t — unstructured exploration that’s genuinely tiring in the best way. It’s mentally stimulating, physically gentle, and great for confidence. The catch is recall. A puppy who doesn’t come back reliably yet is better off on a long line than given full freedom in open spaces. Get that foundation solid first, then gradually extend the trust.
Whatever setup works for you right now, good gear makes the whole thing easier. A well-fitted harness spreads pressure across the chest rather than the neck, which matters a lot when your puppy is still figuring out how to walk on a lead without bouncing off it. Paired with a quality lead — like the Lords & Labradors Herdwick Dog Lead — even a short walk feels calm and in control. The right kit really does take the friction out of those early walks, for both of you.
Waking up to a puppy crying in their crate at night is one of those experiences that tests even the most prepared new dog parent, but it almost always has a perfectly simple explanation. In this guide, you will find out what to do if puppy cries in crate at night, from quick bedtime checks and calming routines through to knowing when the crying might be worth a closer look. A few nights of broken sleep does not mean you are doing it wrong, and with the right approach, things tend to improve faster than you might expect.
Why your puppy cries in the crate at night — and why it’s usually normal
If your puppy is crying in their crate at night, the first thing to know is this: you haven’t done anything wrong, and neither has your puppy.
Nighttime crying is one of the most common experiences for new puppy parents, and it almost always means your puppy is trying to tell you something — not that they’re being difficult. Think about it from their perspective. Just days ago, they were curled up with their mum and littermates, surrounded by warmth and familiar smells, never once spending a night alone. Now they’re in a new home, a new crate, a new room, with none of those comforts to anchor them. A little protest at bedtime makes complete sense.
There are a handful of reasons why puppies cry in the crate at night, and understanding them makes it much easier to respond with confidence rather than panic. The most common ones are:
They miss their littermates. Sleeping in a warm, wriggly pile is all they’ve ever known. That kind of closeness doesn’t disappear overnight, and the adjustment takes time.
They need the toilet. Young puppies genuinely can’t hold their bladder through the night. A cry at 2am is usually a real signal, not a bid for attention.
They’re cold or uncomfortable. A crate that feels too bare or exposed won’t feel like a safe haven — it’ll just feel lonely.
They’re overwhelmed. The first week in a new home is a lot for a small dog to process. By the time bedtime rolls around, many puppies are emotionally wrung out and finding it hard to wind down.
Once you understand what the crying is actually communicating, you can respond in a way that helps rather than guesses. If you’re still putting the building blocks of your puppy’s sleep setup together, our guide to creating the perfect puppy sleep routine is well worth a read before the lights go out.
First things to check before you settle in for the night
Before you rethink your whole approach to crate training, it’s worth pausing to check the basics. A surprising number of puppies crying in the crate at night are simply reacting to something small and fixable — things that are easy to miss when you’re exhausted and just want everyone to sleep. Running through this short checklist first can save you a lot of unnecessary stress.
Last toilet trip of the night. Take your puppy outside for a toilet break right before they go into the crate, even if they went out an hour ago. A full bladder won’t let them settle, and the discomfort will quickly turn into crying.
Crate size. The crate should feel snug and safe, not vast and exposed. Your puppy needs just enough room to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Too much space can actually make them feel less secure, not more.
Room temperature. Puppies feel the cold quickly, especially once the house cools down overnight. Make sure the crate is away from draughts, and tuck in a soft, washable blanket for warmth — just avoid anything that could cause overheating.
Enough wind-down time before bed. Putting a puppy straight into the crate after a play session is a bit like trying to put a toddler to bed mid-bounce. Aim for 20 to 30 minutes of calm before lights out so their energy has genuinely settled.
Is your puppy actually tired? A puppy who hasn’t had enough activity or gentle mental stimulation during the day will find it hard to switch off at night. Short, age-appropriate play sessions in the evening make a real difference. If you’re still in those early days of settling in, the advice on bringing a new puppy home is a great place to start.
More often than not, working through this list resolves things before you need to make any bigger changes. It’s always the right place to begin.
How to build a bedtime routine that helps your puppy settle
Consistency is one of the most powerful tools you have when it comes to puppy crying in the crate at night. Puppies feel safer when they can predict what’s coming next, and a calm, repeatable bedtime sequence tells their brain it’s time to switch off. Do it the same way every night and you’ll likely notice the difference sooner than you’d expect.
Final toilet break 45 to 60 minutes before crating. Take your puppy outside for a proper sniff around and a chance to go. A puppy with a full bladder won’t settle, no matter how cosy the crate is.
Wind down activity levels. Put the squeaky toys away at least 30 minutes before bed and switch to something calmer — a gentle chew, or a quiet cuddle on the sofa. An overtired but overstimulated puppy is a recipe for a difficult night.
Set up the crate with soft, inviting bedding. A plush blanket or well-padded crate mat makes a real difference. If it’s your puppy’s first night, tuck in a worn item of your clothing so your scent is there with them. Some owners also place a ticking clock nearby, which can mimic a mother’s heartbeat.
Cover the crate. Draping a breathable cover over three sides creates a den-like feel that genuinely helps puppies settle. It cuts out visual distractions and signals that the crate is for sleeping, not watching the room.
One last quick toilet trip right before crating. Even a two-minute garden visit is worth it to reduce the chances of a 2am wake-up.
Use a calm, consistent verbal cue. Something simple — “bedtime” or “in your bed” — repeated every night helps your puppy start connecting the word with winding down.
Lights out, minimal fuss. Keep your goodnight brief and warm, then leave. Lingering makes it harder for both of you.
Quick tip: A crate cover is one of the simplest things you can do when crate training a puppy at night. Reducing what your puppy can see lowers stimulation and makes the space feel genuinely enclosed and safe, much more den than cage.
Repeat this every night and you give your puppy something they genuinely need: predictability. Over time, that familiar sequence helps shorten the adjustment period, reduces how long your puppy cries in the crate, and builds quiet confidence in both of you.
What to do if your puppy cries after you’ve put them to bed
Knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is one of those things nobody quite prepares you for. You’re tired, your heart is a little broken, and you just want everyone to sleep. The good news is that you don’t have to choose between leaving them to it completely and rushing straight in every time. A calm, considered response is almost always the right middle ground.
There are two situations genuinely worth getting up for. The first is a toilet trip — especially in the early weeks, when young puppies simply can’t hold their bladder through the night. If your puppy is under 12 weeks, or hasn’t been out recently, a quiet trip outside makes sense. The second is brief reassurance for a puppy still adjusting to sleeping alone. A soft word through the crate, or just a moment nearby, can help settle them without building a bigger habit around it.
The mistake worth avoiding: going to them every single time they cry.
Puppies are quick learners. If calling out reliably brings you back into the room, they’ll keep doing it — not out of stubbornness, but because it works. Even well-meaning responses can accidentally teach them that crying is the way to get your attention. You end up reinforcing the very thing you’re trying to stop.
When your puppy cries, try these calm responses instead:
Wait a minute or two before going in, to see if they settle on their own
If you do go to them, keep your voice low and calm with no excitement or fuss
Any toilet trips should be short, boring, and dimly lit
Avoid eye contact, play, or picking them up unless it’s truly necessary
Return them to the crate straightaway and leave without lingering
Most puppies start to find their rhythm within a few nights once they learn that bedtime is quiet, consistent, and uneventful. The calmer and more predictable you can be, the sooner they’ll get there. And if you want to set the foundations before that first night even arrives, these tips for bringing a new puppy home are a brilliant place to start.
When crying points to something more than a rough first night
Most puppies cry in the crate at night simply because everything feels new and a little overwhelming. That’s completely normal. But part of knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is recognising when something beyond first-night nerves might be going on.
These are the signs worth paying closer attention to:
Crying that gets louder or more frantic after 30 to 60 minutes, rather than gradually fading
Repeated accidents in the crate despite a toilet break right before bed
Frantic pacing, spinning, or determined attempts to scratch or chew their way out
Refusing food, water, or treats anywhere near the crate
A sudden return to distressed crying in a puppy who had previously been settling well
Normal whining vs. genuine distress: what’s the difference?
Normal whining tends to be intermittent, softens over several nights, and doesn’t come with any physical symptoms. Genuine distress looks different. The crying escalates instead of easing, shows little improvement after a week, and may come alongside panting, drooling, or repetitive self-soothing behaviours like circling or excessive licking.
If your puppy is showing physical symptoms alongside the crying — vomiting, diarrhoea, lethargy, or anything that suggests pain or illness — contact your vet. Don’t wait to see if it passes. If the crate itself seems to be the source of real fear rather than just mild protest, a qualified trainer or behaviourist can help you work through it in a way that feels manageable.
It’s also worth thinking about timing. Introducing the crate too young or too abruptly can make the whole process harder than it needs to be. If you’re unsure whether your puppy is ready, our guide on how old you should be before crate training a puppy is a helpful starting point.
Catching these signs early makes a real difference — for your puppy, and for your sleep.
A calmer night starts with consistency, comfort, and a bit of patience
Crate training takes time, and the first few nights are almost always the hardest. But stick with a consistent bedtime routine, respond calmly when your puppy cries, and make their space feel genuinely cosy — and things really do get easier. Most puppies settle into a rhythm faster than their bleary-eyed owners expect.
The small things matter more than you might think. A right-sized crate, placed somewhere warm and familiar, with soft bedding your puppy actually wants to curl into, sets the tone for the whole night. Something like the Cosy Calming Puppy Crate Bed can genuinely help here — giving your puppy a snug, den-like space to settle into rather than somewhere bare and unfamiliar.
Your response matters just as much as the setup. Keeping bedtime predictable, staying consistent, and not rushing in at every whimper all help your puppy learn that the crate is safe and that you are close by. It takes repetition, but it builds real confidence over time.
If you have been lying awake wondering what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night, here is the honest answer: check the basics, build a routine, and give it time. Progress is rarely dramatic, but it is steady. One night you will realise the crying has stopped, the whimpering has faded, and everyone in the house is finally getting some sleep. Those mornings feel very well earned.
Setting up your puppy's crate for nighttime success involves more than just placing a blanket inside and hoping for the best. From choosing the perfect location to creating a soothing bedtime routine, learning how to set up a puppy crate at night properly transforms those sleepless early weeks into peaceful nights for both you and your furry friend. We'll walk you through everything from essential comfort items to handling those inevitable midnight whimpers, so you can create a cozy sanctuary your puppy will actually love.
Why a Cozy Crate is Your Puppy's Safe Haven
Think of your puppy's crate as their very own bedroom retreat, a place where they can curl up and feel completely secure. Just like children find comfort in their own special spaces, puppies naturally seek out cozy dens where they feel protected from the world around them. When you learn how to set up a puppy crate at night properly, you're giving your little one that essential safe haven they instinctively crave.
The magic of crate training lies in working with your puppy's natural denning instincts rather than against them. In the wild, dogs seek out small, enclosed spaces for rest and safety. Your puppy's crate becomes their modern version of this ancient comfort zone. Once they've settled into their nighttime routine, you'll often find them choosing their crate for afternoon naps even when the door stays open—a sure sign you've created something truly special.
For anxious puppies especially, a well-prepared crate offers emotional security during those overwhelming first weeks in a new home. I've watched countless nervous little ones transform from trembling bundles into confident sleepers once they realize their crate means safety and peace. The secret lies in making that space genuinely inviting rather than feeling like punishment.
Beyond comfort, nighttime crate training builds the foundation for house training success. Puppies naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area, so a properly sized crate encourages them to hold their bladder through gradually longer periods. This creates a genuine win for everyone involved.
The beauty of crate training extends to you as well. Knowing your puppy rests safely in their cozy space means you can actually get some sleep too. No more midnight worries about chewed furniture or bathroom accidents. Instead, you both wake up refreshed and ready to tackle another day of puppyhood adventures together. Creating that perfect nighttime setup makes all the difference in building positive associations that last a lifetime.
Choosing the Perfect Spot for Your Puppy's Crate
Where you place your puppy's crate can make or break your nighttime routine. The perfect spot helps your furry friend feel secure and connected to the family while giving everyone the peaceful sleep you desperately need. Think of it as choosing the best bedroom in the house for your newest family member.
Here are the key factors to consider when selecting your puppy's nighttime spot:
Temperature control: Pick a location away from heating vents, air conditioning units, and drafty windows. Puppies can't regulate their body temperature as well as adult dogs, so consistent warmth without overheating is essential.
Noise levels: Choose a spot that's quiet enough for rest but not completely isolated. A corner of your bedroom or a nearby hallway often works perfectly, letting your puppy hear your breathing without being disturbed by every creak and footstep.
Proximity to family activity: Your puppy shouldn't feel banished to the basement or garage. Placing the crate within earshot of where you sleep helps reduce separation anxiety while still maintaining healthy boundaries.
Easy access for nighttime potty breaks: Position the crate where you can quickly and quietly reach it for those inevitable 2 AM bathroom trips. A clear path to the door saves everyone from stumbling around in the dark.
Safety from household hazards: Avoid areas near stairs, breakable items, or anything your curious puppy might try to reach through the crate bars.
Temperature Tip: Keep your puppy's sleeping area between 65-75°F. Consistent temperature helps regulate their sleep cycle and prevents restless nights caused by being too hot or cold.
Most pet parents find that starting with the crate in their bedroom works wonderfully for the first few weeks. Your puppy feels reassured by your presence, and you can respond quickly to any genuine needs. As your pup grows more confident, you can gradually move the crate to its permanent location if you prefer a different spot.
Getting the location right sets the foundation for successful crate training and better sleep for everyone. Once you've found that sweet spot, pair it with comfortable bedding and thoughtful accessories from our crates and crate bedding collection to create a space your puppy will actually want to call home. A well-placed crate becomes your puppy's favorite retreat, never a place of punishment.
Setting Up the Crate: Bedding and Comfort Essentials
The right bedding and comfort items transform a bare crate into a cozy sanctuary where your puppy feels safe and secure through the night. Just like we need our favorite pillow and soft sheets for a good night's sleep, your puppy needs the right materials to settle in peacefully and develop positive associations with their crate.
Here's how to set up a puppy crate at night with the perfect comfort essentials:
Start with a properly sized crate mat or bed that covers most of the floor space without being too bulky. Your puppy should have enough room to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, but not so much space they might use one corner as a bathroom.
Choose soft, washable materials that can handle frequent washing. Fleece blankets, cotton crate pads, or specially designed puppy bedding work beautifully because they're gentle on sensitive skin and easy to clean when accidents happen. Trust me, you'll appreciate this foresight at 2 AM when you're dealing with an unexpected mess.
Add a comfort item with familiar scents like a small piece of your clothing or a soft toy. This helps ease separation anxiety and makes the crate feel less lonely during those first few nights. Many puppy parents find that an old t-shirt works wonders.
Position a small water dish near the front of the crate if your puppy needs overnight access to water. Use a spill-proof bowl or clip-on water bottle to prevent soggy bedding disasters that'll have you changing everything in the middle of the night.
Include one safe chew toy to give your puppy something appropriate to gnaw on if they wake up feeling restless. Avoid anything small enough to swallow or toys with parts that could break off.
Tuck blankets snugly around the bedding to prevent bunching or tangling that might disturb your puppy's sleep. Think of it like making a proper bed—smooth surfaces help everyone rest better.
Quick Tip: Washable materials are your best friend during crate training. Nighttime accidents are completely normal for young puppies, so having bedding you can easily toss in the washing machine saves you stress and keeps the crate fresh and inviting.
When you nail the bedding setup, you're setting the foundation for successful nighttime crate training. The Lords & Labradors boucle cosy calming puppy crate bed set captures this approach perfectly, combining luxury comfort with practical washability to support both peaceful puppy sleep and easy maintenance for busy pet parents.
To Cover or Not to Cover: Creating a Cozy Den
Many puppies sleep better when their crate feels like the cozy den they instinctively seek. Think of it this way: in the wild, dogs gravitate toward enclosed spaces that offer security and calm. A crate cover can transform your puppy's sleeping area from an open cage into a peaceful retreat that blocks distractions and signals bedtime.
That said, covering isn't right for every puppy. Some love the snug, cave-like feeling, while others prefer to see their surroundings. Your puppy's personality and a few safety considerations should guide your decision.
Pros of Covering
Cons of Covering
Reduces visual distractions and household noise
Risk of overheating, especially in warm climates
Creates calming den-like atmosphere
Some puppies feel claustrophobic in enclosed spaces
Helps anxious puppies feel more secure
Can trap odors or reduce air circulation
Blocks morning light for longer sleep
Makes it harder to monitor your puppy's behavior
Establishes clear "bedtime" signal
May increase humidity inside the crate
If you want to try covering your puppy's crate at night, safety comes first:
Always leave at least one side partially open for ventilation
Choose breathable materials like cotton or purpose-made crate covers
Watch for overheating signs like excessive panting or restlessness
Start with just partial coverage to see how your puppy reacts
Remove the cover immediately if your puppy seems stressed
Quality crate covers strike the perfect balance between cozy and practical. Look for designs with breathable fabrics that maintain airflow while creating that essential den feeling. Many feature adjustable panels and machine-washable materials that make your nighttime routine simpler.
Remember, there's no one-size-fits-all approach here. If your puppy seems happier without a cover, trust their preference. The goal is helping them feel secure and comfortable, whatever that looks like for your particular pup.
Handling Nighttime Whimpers: Comforting Your Puppy
Those little whimpers and soft cries in the middle of the night are completely normal for new puppies adjusting to their crate. Remember, your puppy has just left their littermates and is learning to feel secure in their new space. The key to success lies in staying consistent with your approach while offering gentle comfort that doesn't reward the crying behavior.
Here's how to soothe your puppy through those first challenging nights:
Place a piece of your worn clothing in the crate so your scent provides comfort throughout the night. An old t-shirt works perfectly and helps your puppy feel less alone.
Use white noise or soft music to mask household sounds that might startle your puppy awake. A fan or calming playlist can work wonders for creating a peaceful sleep environment.
Implement a gradual response approach by waiting a few minutes before responding to whimpering. If the crying continues, offer quiet reassurance with your voice rather than immediately opening the crate.
Keep nighttime interactions calm and minimal. If your puppy needs a bathroom break, take them out quietly without making it an exciting playtime experience.
Position yourself nearby initially if needed. Some pet parents find sleeping on the couch near the crate for the first few nights helps ease the transition.
Stick to your routine even when it feels difficult. Consistency in your nighttime puppy crate routine helps your puppy learn what to expect and feel more secure.
I remember those exhausting first weeks with my own puppy, lying awake at 2 AM wondering if the whimpering would ever stop. Here's the truth that kept me going: most puppies adapt to their nighttime routine within one to two weeks when you stay consistent. Those sleepless nights feel endless in the moment, but they're building something beautiful—a confident, secure pup who knows their crate is a safe haven. If you're struggling to establish those consistent bedtime habits, our guide on creating the perfect puppy sleep routine offers additional strategies for building a calming nighttime schedule.
Encouraging Fact: Studies show that 85% of puppies sleep through the night within two weeks when their crate is properly set up and a consistent routine is maintained. Your patience during these early nights is building the foundation for years of peaceful sleep ahead.
Building a Nighttime Routine for Peaceful Sleep
Establishing a consistent nighttime routine transforms crate training from a nightly struggle into a peaceful ritual that both you and your puppy can count on. Think of it like bedtime stories for children – the predictability becomes comforting rather than boring.
Start your routine about 30 minutes before you want your puppy settled for the night. Begin with a final potty break outside, followed by a few minutes of calm interaction. Skip the energetic play during this wind-down period. An overstimulated puppy will take ages to settle, and you'll both pay for it later. Instead, try gentle petting or quiet talking while you guide them toward their crate area.
Create positive associations by offering a special treat or chew toy that only appears at bedtime. Many pet parents find that a small training treat or a puzzle toy helps their puppy view crate time as something to anticipate rather than endure. Place this inside the crate while your puppy watches, then use a consistent verbal cue like "bedtime" or "crate time."
The secret to success lies in your own consistency and calm energy. Puppies are emotional sponges – they absorb our stress levels instantly. So approach bedtime with quiet confidence. If your little one fusses initially, resist the urge to immediately respond. Most puppies settle within 10-15 minutes once they realize the routine is non-negotiable.
Learning how to set up a puppy crate at night extends beyond the physical setup to include these daily habits. Some nights will go more smoothly than others, especially during those first exhausting weeks. Adjust your timing as needed, but stick to the same sequence of events.
As your puppy grows more comfortable, you might find certain steps become unnecessary. Still, maintaining some version of this routine helps reinforce the crate as a positive, restful space throughout their life. Consider pairing it with a cozy calming bed that becomes part of this nightly ritual – familiar comfort they can count on every single night.
