18.02.25 February 18, 2025 Owning a Cat

What Is A Pet Passport & How Do I Get One?

If you’re a UK-based pet owner planning a trip abroad with your dog or cat, you’ve likely come across the term “pet passport.” From the cost of a cat passport to the post-Brexit regulations affecting an animal passport, it can be a little confusing to understand the latest requirements. In this guide, we’ll break down what a pet passport is, how it used to work in Europe before Brexit, and what you’ll need to do now to ensure your pet has everything it needs to travel safely and legally. What Is A Pet Passport? A “pet passport,” sometimes also called a pet ID passport, is an official document that historically allowed pets—most commonly dogs, cats, and ferrets—to travel between various countries without needing lengthy quarantine periods. Before Brexit, a European pet passport was often sufficient for UK owners travelling to EU countries, provided their pet’s vaccinations, microchip details, and owner information were up to date. The Purpose of a Pet Passport Verified Identity: It contains your pet’s microchip number, name, and breed. Health Records: It includes proof of valid rabies vaccinations and other relevant health details. Owner Information: Shows the name, address, and contact information of the pet’s owner. By having a valid pet passport (or, in the post-Brexit world, the right certification), you minimise any travel-related stress for both you and your pet, making the journey smoother at border controls. Pet Travel After Brexit Since the UK left the EU, the European pet passport issued in Great Britain (England, Scotland, Wales) is no longer valid for travel to EU countries. Instead, pet owners now need what is known as an Animal Health Certificate (AHC) if they’re travelling from the UK to the EU or Northern Ireland. Animal Health Certificate (AHC): This is valid for a single trip into the EU, onward travel within the EU for four months, and return to Great Britain within four months. Every time you travel to the EU, you need a new AHC unless you already have an EU-issued passport from before Brexit (still valid if issued by an EU country). To get an AHC, you need to visit an official veterinarian (OV) who will check your pet’s microchip, rabies vaccinations, and general health. For more detailed information, you can consult the official guidelines on Getting an animal health certificate (GOV.UK). Do I Still Need a Pet Passport? If you have a pet passport issued by an EU country, you might still be able to use it—this includes documents issued in Northern Ireland. However, if your passport was issued in Great Britain, it is no longer valid for travel in the EU. You’ll need an AHC for your next trip. You can learn more about this on the GOV.UK website. For UK-based owners, think of the new Animal Health Certificate as the updated version of a pet passport. The purpose is the same—ensuring your pet meets all health requirements before crossing borders—but the format and paperwork have changed since Brexit. Applying for a Pet Passport (Pre-Brexit) vs. Now Before Brexit, you could easily apply for a pet passport online through certain veterinary providers or book an appointment with an official vet. You would bring your pet’s vaccination records and microchip details, and they would issue a passport that remained valid as long as you kept vaccinations updated. Today, the process is more or less replaced by obtaining an Animal Health Certificate if you’re travelling from Great Britain. You can’t simply apply for a pet passport online in the UK the same way you once could for EU travel, because the requirements have changed. However, you can still find online resources to guide you to an official vet, who is the only person able to issue the relevant documentation. How Much Does It Cost? One of the most common questions people ask is the cost of a cat passport or dog passport. While the pet passport scheme is no longer valid in the same way if it was issued in Great Britain, you can still get an EU-issued passport if your pet resides in an EU country or travels regularly there. However, for most UK owners, the main cost to consider is the Animal Health Certificate. The fee for an Animal Health Certificate can range from around £100 to £200+, depending on your vet’s pricing. Vaccinations & Microchipping Cost: Rabies vaccinations typically cost around £15 to £60, tapeworm treatment is around £20 to £30 and a microchip insertion can be around £15 to £30 if your pet isn’t already chipped. Because these expenses can add up, it’s always a good idea to call around to different veterinarians to compare prices. Keep in mind you may also need boosters or treatments for tapeworm (particularly for dogs) depending on your destination. You will also want to make sure your pet is up to date with their regular vaccinations, flea and worming treatments - the cost of these varies between vets but a lot of practices have pet plans which include or subsidise the cost of these. What You Need to Travel with Your Pet The specific requirements vary based on where you’re travelling, but here are some general guidelines: Microchipping: Your pet must be microchipped before any vaccinations for travel. Rabies Vaccination: This must be done at least 21 days before you travel Animal Health Certificate: Issued within 10 days of your trip if you’re heading to the EU. Tapeworm Treatment (For Dogs): Required when travelling to certain countries, administered by a vet no less than 24 hours and no more than 120 hours before arrival. Preparing Your Pet for Travel Travel can be stressful for animals, especially if they’re not used to long journeys. Whether you have a dog passport or a cat passport, there are a few steps you can take to make their trip more comfortable Carrier or Crate: Invest in a sturdy, comfortable pet carrier or crate that allows your pet enough room to turn around and lie down. Familiar Items: Put a favourite toy or blanket inside the carrier to help your pet feel more at ease. Gradual Acclimatisation: Let your pet get used to the carrier at home before the trip so they see it as a safe space. Frequent Breaks: If you’re driving, plan stops so your pet can stretch their legs, rehydrate, and relieve themselves. For more tips on travelling safely with your pet, check out the Travelling with Your Pet collection on our website, where you’ll find carriers, travel accessories, and other essentials designed to make journeys smoother. Final Thoughts While the European pet passport offered a convenient solution in the past, the post-Brexit travel scenario for UK-based pets now requires a bit more planning with the Animal Health Certificate. The good news is that the process is still straightforward, as long as you’re prepared. Make sure your pet’s microchip and rabies vaccinations are up to date well in advance of your travel date, and keep an eye on the latest guidance from GOV.UK to ensure your paperwork remains valid. With a little preparation, you and your furry companion can continue to explore new destinations together, worry-free. Want to learn more about travelling with pets? Feel free to browse our Travelling with Your Pet collection for crates, carriers, and other travel essentials. Wherever your next trip takes you, we hope you and your pet have a safe and joyful journey!

By Megan Willis

What Is A Pet Passport?

A “pet passport,” sometimes also called a pet ID passport, is an official document that historically allowed pets—most commonly dogs, cats, and ferrets—to travel between various countries without needing lengthy quarantine periods. Before Brexit, a European pet passport was often sufficient for UK owners travelling to EU countries, provided their pet’s vaccinations, microchip details, and owner information were up to date.

The Purpose of a Pet Passport

Verified Identity: It contains your pet’s microchip number, name, and breed.
Health Records: It includes proof of valid rabies vaccinations and other relevant health details.
Owner Information: Shows the name, address, and contact information of the pet’s owner.

By having a valid pet passport (or, in the post-Brexit world, the right certification), you minimise any travel-related stress for both you and your pet, making the journey smoother at border controls.

Pet Travel After Brexit

Since the UK left the EU, the European pet passport issued in Great Britain (England, Scotland, Wales) is no longer valid for travel to EU countries. Instead, pet owners now need what is known as an Animal Health Certificate (AHC) if they’re travelling from the UK to the EU or Northern Ireland.

Animal Health Certificate (AHC): This is valid for a single trip into the EU, onward travel within the EU for four months, and return to Great Britain within four months. Every time you travel to the EU, you need a new AHC unless you already have an EU-issued passport from before Brexit (still valid if issued by an EU country).

To get an AHC, you need to visit an official veterinarian (OV) who will check your pet’s microchip, rabies vaccinations, and general health. For more detailed information, you can consult the official guidelines on Getting an animal health certificate (GOV.UK).

Do I Still Need a Pet Passport?

If you have a pet passport issued by an EU country, you might still be able to use it—this includes documents issued in Northern Ireland. However, if your passport was issued in Great Britain, it is no longer valid for travel in the EU. You’ll need an AHC for your next trip. You can learn more about this on the GOV.UK website.

For UK-based owners, think of the new Animal Health Certificate as the updated version of a pet passport. The purpose is the same—ensuring your pet meets all health requirements before crossing borders—but the format and paperwork have changed since Brexit.

Applying for a Pet Passport (Pre-Brexit) vs. Now

Before Brexit, you could easily apply for a pet passport online through certain veterinary providers or book an appointment with an official vet. You would bring your pet’s vaccination records and microchip details, and they would issue a passport that remained valid as long as you kept vaccinations updated.

Today, the process is more or less replaced by obtaining an Animal Health Certificate if you’re travelling from Great Britain. You can’t simply apply for a pet passport online in the UK the same way you once could for EU travel, because the requirements have changed. However, you can still find online resources to guide you to an official vet, who is the only person able to issue the relevant documentation.

How Much Does It Cost?

One of the most common questions people ask is the cost of a cat passport or dog passport. While the pet passport scheme is no longer valid in the same way if it was issued in Great Britain, you can still get an EU-issued passport if your pet resides in an EU country or travels regularly there. However, for most UK owners, the main cost to consider is the Animal Health Certificate.

The fee for an Animal Health Certificate can range from around £100 to £200+, depending on your vet’s pricing.

Vaccinations & Microchipping Cost:

Rabies vaccinations typically cost around £15 to £60, tapeworm treatment is around £20 to £30 and a microchip insertion can be around £15 to £30 if your pet isn’t already chipped.

Because these expenses can add up, it’s always a good idea to call around to different veterinarians to compare prices. Keep in mind you may also need boosters or treatments for tapeworm (particularly for dogs) depending on your destination. You will also want to make sure your pet is up to date with their regular vaccinations, flea and worming treatments - the cost of these varies between vets but a lot of practices have pet plans which include or subsidise the cost of these.

What You Need to Travel with Your Pet

The specific requirements vary based on where you’re travelling, but here are some general guidelines:

Microchipping: Your pet must be microchipped before any vaccinations for travel.
Rabies Vaccination: This must be done at least 21 days before you travel
Animal Health Certificate: Issued within 10 days of your trip if you’re heading to the EU.
Tapeworm Treatment (For Dogs): Required when travelling to certain countries, administered by a vet no less than 24 hours and no more than 120 hours before arrival.

Preparing Your Pet for Travel

Travel can be stressful for animals, especially if they’re not used to long journeys. Whether you have a dog passport or a cat passport, there are a few steps you can take to make their trip more comfortable

Carrier or Crate: Invest in a sturdy, comfortable pet carrier or crate that allows your pet enough room to turn around and lie down.
Familiar Items: Put a favourite toy or blanket inside the carrier to help your pet feel more at ease.
Gradual Acclimatisation: Let your pet get used to the carrier at home before the trip so they see it as a safe space.
Frequent Breaks: If you’re driving, plan stops so your pet can stretch their legs, rehydrate, and relieve themselves.

For more tips on travelling safely with your pet, check out the Travelling with Your Pet collection on our website, where you’ll find carriers, travel accessories, and other essentials designed to make journeys smoother.

Final Thoughts

While the European pet passport offered a convenient solution in the past, the post-Brexit travel scenario for UK-based pets now requires a bit more planning with the Animal Health Certificate. The good news is that the process is still straightforward, as long as you’re prepared.

Make sure your pet’s microchip and rabies vaccinations are up to date well in advance of your travel date, and keep an eye on the latest guidance from GOV.UK to ensure your paperwork remains valid. With a little preparation, you and your furry companion can continue to explore new destinations together, worry-free.

Want to learn more about travelling with pets? Feel free to browse our Travelling with Your Pet collection for crates, carriers, and other travel essentials. Wherever your next trip takes you, we hope you and your pet have a safe and joyful journey!

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Pros and Cons of Sending Your Dog Away for Training

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Why Do Cats Lick Each Other

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26.08.26 August 26, 2026 Owning a Cat

Why Do Cats Lick Each Other

Watching two cats curl up and wash each other is one of those small, lovely moments that makes a multi-cat home feel just right. This guide looks at why do cats lick each other, from the social bonds and shared scents behind allogrooming to the times when one-sided licking might be worth a closer look. You’ll also find practical tips on setting up your home so your cats can feel calm, comfortable, and genuinely at ease together. Why do cats lick each other? A quick look at cat grooming If you’ve ever caught your cats curled up together, giving each other a careful wash, it’s natural to wonder why do cats lick each other when they can groom themselves just fine. In most cases, it’s a lovely, normal part of cat grooming behavior called social grooming. When cats groom each other, they’re not just tidying up. They’re building trust, sharing comfort, and showing that they feel relaxed enough to be close. You’ll often notice them licking around the head, ears, or neck, which are tricky spots to clean alone. So yes, there’s a practical side, but the bigger message is usually affection and bonding. This starts early. Mother cats lick their kittens to clean them, soothe them, and help them feel secure. As cats grow, that same behaviour can carry into adult relationships, which helps explain why cats lick each other’s fur when they’ve formed a strong bond at home. So if your two cats take turns grooming on the sofa or after a nap in their favourite bed, it’s usually a reassuring sign. They likely see each other as part of the same social group. If you’re also helping cats and dogs live happily together, our guide on how to get your dog and cat to get along may help. What allogrooming means in a cat household If you’ve ever caught one cat carefully washing another’s ears and wondered why do cats lick each other so intently, you’re looking at allogrooming. It’s simply the name for one cat grooming another, and it’s a very normal part of life in many multi-cat homes. So, why do cats groom each other in the first place? Usually, it comes down to familiarity, comfort, and living closely together. It helps build bonds. Grooming can be a calming, rewarding social interaction for cats, so doing it regularly may help strengthen their connection over time. It creates a shared scent. When cats lick each other’s fur, they mix their scents together. That shared smell helps them recognise one another as part of the same social group. It helps with hard-to-reach areas. The top of the head, around the ears, and the neck are awkward spots for a cat to clean alone, so a friendly housemate can step in. It can keep the peace. In some pairs or groups, grooming seems to help smooth over small tensions and make everyone feel more settled. It shows trust. Cats are vulnerable when they’re being groomed, so allowing another cat close in that way is often one of the loveliest cat affection signs to spot at home. In a happy cat household, allogrooming often becomes part of the daily rhythm. It’s one of those little cat grooming behavior clues that can tell you your cats feel safe, familiar, and comfortable with each other. Is it about love, hierarchy, or both? The honest answer is that cat grooming behavior is rarely just one thing. When cats lick each other, it can absolutely be about affection, but it can also reflect who feels more confident, settled, or socially comfortable in the pair. So if you’ve ever wondered why do cats lick each other, the answer is often both love and social structure. Cats may groom one another to: strengthen a bond they already feel secure in calm things down after a brief wobble or disagreement share scent and reinforce a familiar group feeling at home show social confidence, especially when one cat usually starts the grooming comfort a companion they know well, including a sibling or long-time housemate That’s why cat grooming behavior can look very sweet on the surface while still telling you something about the relationship underneath. One cat licking the other’s head or neck, for example, may be gentle and affectionate, but it can also show which cat tends to take the lead socially. Worth knowing: one study on close-contact inter-cat interactions found that cats can show both affiliative and agonistic behaviors, so grooming may sit alongside tension rather than always meaning pure affection. In other words, why do cats groom each other is not always a simple romance story. In a calm, well-set-up home, with enough space and resources like a cat scratch post, you’re more likely to see the relaxed, easy kind of grooming most pet parents hope for. When one cat does all the licking: signs it may be stress, not just affection Mutual grooming is usually a lovely sign that your cats feel safe and bonded together. But it’s worth paying attention when one cat is always doing the licking and the other is simply putting up with it. That kind of one-sided pattern can sometimes point to stress, anxiety, or an uneven social dynamic rather than pure affection. Here are a few signs to watch for: The cat being groomed flattens their ears or pulls their head away They walk off mid-session looking relieved, not relaxed One cat always initiates grooming, never the other way around You notice thinning fur in certain spots from repeated, concentrated licking The licking looks frantic or repetitive rather than slow and settled The recipient shows tension during grooming — tail flicking, a low grumble, or a stiff body Compulsive grooming can be a response to environmental stress. Giving cats a positive outlet for restless energy really does help, and something like a wall climber or activity centre can make a surprising difference to anxious behaviour at home. A little one-sidedness is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about on its own. Most cats settle into their own grooming rhythms over time. But if you’re consistently noticing avoidance, tension, or licking that looks more compulsive than caring, it’s worth keeping a closer eye on things. A chat with your vet or a cat behaviourist can help you figure out what’s going on and how best to support both cats. How to support calm, comfortable cat relationships at home The good news is that most cats in the same household find their own rhythm over time. But there are things you can do to smooth the process along, especially if you have a newer pairing or a cat who seems a little unsettled. Start with space. Cats feel safest when they have somewhere to retreat to that is entirely their own. If your cats share every bed, bowl, and sunny windowsill, tension can quietly build even when everything looks fine on the surface. Giving each cat a dedicated resting spot makes a real difference — not just for their comfort, but for the overall mood of the household. A cosy, enclosed bed works especially well as a personal sanctuary, somewhere a cat can decompress without another wandering in uninvited. If you are looking for something that suits each cat’s individual personality, the Lords & Labradors cat bed collection is well worth a browse. Scratching posts are another simple win. Place them in a few different spots around the home and cats can mark their territory in a way that feels natural and low-conflict, which quietly helps keep the peace without anyone having to step in. When it comes to encouraging closeness, let the cats lead. Grooming and licking will happen on their terms, and that is exactly how it should be. Moving them together when they seem settled apart, or hovering over interactions, can create friction rather than ease it. Step back and trust them. Watching your cats groom each other and genuinely seem at ease together is one of the quiet joys of a multi-cat home. A little support from you goes a long way in helping them get there. Frequently Asked Questions What does it mean if cats lick each other? It usually means they feel comfortable and familiar with each other. Cats often lick one another as part of social grooming, or allogrooming, which helps with bonding, shared scent, and cleaning hard-to-reach spots like the head, ears, and neck. It can also reflect social confidence within the pair. Does the dominant cat groom the other? Sometimes, yes. When one cat regularly starts the grooming, it can show social confidence or that they tend to take the lead in the relationship, not just affection. The bigger picture matters though, as relaxed body language and calm, mutual interactions usually suggest the grooming is comfortable and positive. Is it good when a cat licks another cat? Yes, in most cases it’s a good sign. Cats licking each other is often a normal, reassuring part of social grooming that shows trust, comfort, and bonding. It’s only worth watching more closely if the licking looks frantic, one-sided, or seems to make the other cat tense or uneasy.

By Adele Busby
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21.08.26 August 21, 2026 Owning a Cat

Why Do Cats Chirp at Birds

That strange stuttering sound your cat makes when a bird lands outside is one of those small, delightful mysteries that comes with sharing your home with a cat. In this article, we look at why cats chirp at birds, what the main theories behind the behaviour actually mean, and what your cat’s body language is quietly telling you while it happens. We also cover when to relax and when to pay closer attention, plus some simple ways to make life a little richer for a cat who lives for the windowsill. What does it mean when a cat chirps at birds? If you’ve ever caught your cat glued to the windowsill, eyes locked on a bird outside, making a strange stuttering sound you’ve never quite heard before — you already know what chirping is. It’s one of those moments that stops you mid-cup-of-tea and makes you wonder what on earth is going on in that little head. Cat chirping is a short, rapid, high-pitched sound that sits somewhere between a trill and a stutter. It’s nothing like a meow, which cats tend to save for communicating with us, and it’s worlds away from a yowl or a hiss. You’ll often see it described as chattering too, and the two are closely related. Chattering usually involves that rapid jaw movement — almost like teeth clicking — while chirping is a touch softer and more tonal. Plenty of cats do both at the same time. It tends to happen in a very specific moment: a bird lands on a nearby branch, hops across the garden, or flutters past a favourite window. Your cat spots it, freezes, and out comes that curious little sound. It’s almost always directed outward, at something they can see but can’t reach. So why do cats chirp at birds? It’s worth digging into, because the answer says a lot about how your cat thinks and experiences the world. And if you’re already thinking about ways to keep your bird-obsessed cat happy indoors, we’ve got plenty of ideas to explore. Why do cats chirp at birds? The main theories There’s no single agreed-upon answer to why cats chirp at birds, which makes cat chattering behaviour one of the more intriguing puzzles in feline research. Several compelling theories exist, and honestly, each one tells us something a little different about how cats are wired. Scientists haven’t landed on a definitive explanation yet, so this is very much an open question — and a genuinely fascinating one. Leading theories behind the chirp: Predatory excitement and overstimulation. The moment your cat spots a bird outside, their hunting instincts kick in almost instantly. Cat chattering behaviour is thought to be a physical expression of that intense arousal — a kind of involuntary release when excitement builds faster than it has anywhere to go. Frustration at not being able to reach prey. Sometimes the cat chirping at birds meaning might be surprisingly straightforward: frustration. Your cat can see exactly what they want, but the glass is in the way. That clicking, stuttering sound could be how they process the tension between wanting something and not being able to get it. Instinctive mimicry or prey-luring behaviour. Some researchers suggest cats may imitate bird calls to draw prey closer. It’s an idea supported by observations of wild cats mimicking tamarin monkey calls in the Amazon — compelling, though still unproven in domestic cats. Anticipation mixed with hunting instinct. Why do cats chatter at birds? It may simply be excitement and readiness colliding — your cat mentally rehearsing a hunt they can’t actually go on. Quick insight: This behaviour tends to show up most in indoor cats watching birds through windows. If your cat has a favourite spot to lounge near the glass, they’re probably chirping there regularly. A dedicated cat bed positioned near a window gives them a comfortable perch to watch, chirp, and daydream to their heart’s content. It’s also worth noting that research into cat vocalisation is still evolving. One peer-reviewed study found that domestic cats have a wide vocal repertoire, with up to 21 different vocalizations described in the literature — a reminder that we’re still learning a great deal about how cats communicate. Understanding why cats make chirping noises is reassuring in itself: this behaviour is completely normal and rooted in deep instinct. Keep reading to find out what your cat’s body language is telling you when the chirping starts. What your cat’s body language can tell you Chirping rarely happens on its own. If you’ve ever wondered why do cats chirp at birds, the sound is only one piece of the puzzle. Your cat’s body usually tells you just as much, especially during those long garden-watching sessions from the windowsill. Body language signals to watch for: Tail flicking or lashing – quick flicks often mean intense focus and rising excitement Crouching low – this classic hunting posture shows your cat is fully tuned in Ears forward – a good sign they’re alert and engaged; ears flattening can mean frustration or overstimulation is creeping in Fixed stare – when your cat barely blinks, they’re tracking every flutter and hop Rapid chirping bursts – short, excited sounds often happen when the bird moves suddenly Harmless excitement Signs of overstimulation Soft, steady chirping Loud, frantic chattering Relaxed crouch Stiff, tense posture Gentle tail flicks Fast, forceful tail lashing Taken together, these clues help explain cat chirping at birds meaning a little more clearly. A focused, excited cat is usually just enjoying the thrill of the “hunt” from a safe spot indoors. If the body gets tense and the sounds get more urgent, it may be time for a gentle distraction, like a toy or a quick play session. If you’d like to get better at spotting these cues in pets generally, our guide to reading body language cues in dogs and other animals is a helpful next read. Should you worry if your cat chirps at birds? For most cat owners, chirping at birds is one of those endearing little quirks that makes life with a cat so entertaining. And reassuringly, cat chirping at birds is almost always completely normal — it simply means your cat has clocked something exciting outside and their inner hunter has woken up. Nothing to worry about there. That said, it’s worth knowing what to keep an eye on. Pay a little closer attention if you notice: A sudden change in the sound, especially if it seems more strained or distressed than usual Chirping paired with pacing, hiding, or visible anxiety Repetitive vocalisation with no obvious trigger nearby, like a bird or movement at the window Other changes alongside it, such as a shift in appetite, energy levels, or general mood The short version: occasional chirping is healthy self-expression. Most cats genuinely enjoy the stimulation of watching birds — think of it as their version of a gripping nature documentary. If your cat seems happy, curious, and otherwise completely themselves, there’s very little cause for concern. What matters most is that their day-to-day environment feels calm and enriching. A well-thought-out home setup — including a dedicated cat washroom space where they can retreat and feel settled — can make a real difference to an otherwise content, bird-obsessed cat. How to support a chirpy, bird-watching cat at home If your cat loves nothing more than pressing their nose to the glass and chattering away at every robin and pigeon that dares to land in the garden, the best thing you can do is lean into it. Bird-watching is genuinely enriching for cats, and a few simple tweaks at home can make the whole experience even better for them. Start with a good window spot. Cats want a clear, comfortable view, ideally at height, so they can properly survey their kingdom. A wall-mounted perch like the Lords and Labradors Malmo Viewing Pod gives them a dedicated vantage point to settle in for as long as they like, without monopolising the sofa arm or teetering on a wobbly windowsill. You can also bring a little of the outside in. A bird feeder positioned within sight of a favourite window turns an ordinary afternoon into something genuinely absorbing. Pair that with a cat-safe herb planter on the sill, some rustling foliage nearby, or even a nature documentary playing quietly in the background, and you have got a surprisingly rich little sensory world for them to enjoy. Interactive play is worth building in too. Wand toys with feather attachments are brilliant for letting your cat act on all that pent-up predatory energy from a long chattering session. A short burst of play afterwards can leave them feeling satisfied rather than quietly wound up. Cat chirping at birds is your cat being fully, brilliantly themselves. Your job is simply to give them the best possible seat for the show. Frequently Asked Questions Why does my cat make a chirping sound at birds? Cats usually chirp at birds because seeing prey triggers a burst of hunting excitement. It can also reflect frustration when they can see a bird but cannot reach it through the window. In most cases, it is a completely normal instinctive behaviour, often paired with focused staring, crouching, and tail flicking. Why does my cat make a chirping sound like a bird? Cats often make a bird-like chirping sound when they spot birds or other fast-moving prey outside. The sound is linked to hunting instinct, excitement, anticipation, and sometimes frustration if the prey is out of reach. It is generally a normal feline behaviour, especially during intense window watching.

By Adele Busby
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17.08.26 August 17, 2026 Owning a Cat

Why Do Some Cats Not Like to Be Held

If you have ever scooped up your cat only to find them twisting free within seconds, you are not alone and it is not personal. Understanding why do some cats not like to be held starts with instinct, personality, and the quiet signals cats send long before they decide to make their feelings obvious. This article unpacks what is really behind that resistance and shares gentle, practical ways to build the kind of trust that makes closeness feel safe for both of you. Why some cats hate being held: what’s really going on If your cat wriggles out of your arms the second you pick them up, it can feel a bit disheartening, especially when you were only after a cosy cuddle. But if you have ever wondered why do some cats not like to be held, it usually is not about attitude or affection. Your cat is communicating discomfort. A big part of it comes down to instinct. Cats may be brilliant hunters, but they are also prey animals, so being lifted off the ground and restrained can feel unsafe. Even in a calm home with people they love, that sudden loss of control can trigger a very natural fear response. That is also why does my cat not like being picked up is such a common question among cat parents. Their body language often tells the story before they struggle. A twitching tail, ears pinned back, wide eyes, or a stiff body are all signs your cat is not relaxed. Learning to spot that cat body language when held helps you respond with more empathy and less guesswork. Understanding the reason matters because it changes how you support your cat. Instead of forcing contact, you can build trust in ways that feel safer to them, whether that is giving them choice, creating quiet hiding spots, or making their home feel secure with something like a cat washroom for extra privacy. The instinctive reasons holding can feel unsafe to a cat To understand why some cats don’t like to be held, it helps to start with what cats are actually wired to feel, rather than what we’d love them to feel. Cats haven’t been domesticated nearly as long as dogs, and underneath every purring house cat is a creature still built to stay alert, stay mobile, and stay in control of what happens to their body. Here are the key instinctive reasons being held can feel threatening to a cat: Feeling trapped. The moment you hold a cat, you take away their ability to move freely. That triggers a deep alarm, even when you mean nothing but love. Losing their escape route. Cats always want to know how they’d get away if they needed to. Being held removes that option entirely. Unfamiliar pressure on their body. Even gentle squeezing can feel overwhelming to a cat who hasn’t built trust around that kind of contact. Vulnerability from height. Being lifted puts a cat somewhere they didn’t choose to go. That feels disorienting and exposed, not reassuring. No control over what happens next. Cats are deeply independent. Unpredictability, even from someone they adore, can flip them straight into defensive mode. Key insight: Cats are both predator and prey. Being restrained activates the same alarm response as being caught by a threat, regardless of how safe the situation really is. That prey-animal instinct never fully switches off, which is why so many cats gravitate toward high spots where they can keep watch entirely on their own terms. Giving them access to vertical space, like wall-mounted cat climbers, genuinely supports their need for control and safe retreat — the very things being held can take away. Every cat is different: personality, early experiences, and trust No two cats are the same, and that is often the real answer to why do some cats not like to be held. If your cat pulls away when you scoop them up, it does not automatically mean they are unfriendly. More often, it comes down to personality, past experiences, and how safe they feel with touch. A few things usually shape that preference: Personality. Some cats love being close and will happily curl up on your lap. Others prefer to sit beside you, follow you from room to room, or ask for affection in short bursts. Early socialisation. Kittens who were handled gently and regularly in their first weeks are often more relaxed with human contact later on. Past handling experiences. If a cat has been grabbed, restrained, or picked up awkwardly, they may decide being held is something to avoid. Age and life stage. Comfort with handling can change over time. Some cats become softer and clingier, while others grow more particular about how and when they want contact. Breed tendencies. Some breeds are known for being especially people-focused, while others tend to like affection on their own terms. Family setting and trust. One study found that cats showed affectionate, aggressive, fearful, and playful responses in family settings and these responses varied across cats, especially in homes with children. Trust grows slowly, and usually in small everyday moments. A calm routine, gentle handling, and a cosy place to settle, like a soft cat blanket, can help your cat feel secure. Some cats do become cuddlier with time, but only when their boundaries are respected. Signs your cat is uncomfortable being held Cats communicate discomfort long before they feel the need to scratch or bite. Learning to read what their body is already telling you is one of the most useful things you can do as a cat parent, and it goes a long way toward understanding why some cats don’t like to be held. Body stiffening: Your cat goes rigid in your arms rather than relaxing into you. It’s the opposite of a melt. Tail lashing or thumping: A fast, sweeping tail is not excitement. It signals agitation, and it tends to escalate quickly. Flattened ears: Ears pinned back or turned sideways mean your cat feels threatened or overwhelmed. Dilated pupils: Wide, round pupils in normal lighting point to stress or fear, not curiosity. Vocalising: Growling, hissing, or persistent meowing while being held is a verbal protest. A clear one. Squirming and twisting: Active attempts to wriggle free are not playfulness. Your cat wants down. Biting or scratching: This is a last resort, and it almost always means earlier signals were missed. If you notice any of these signs, put your cat down calmly and straight away. These are not phases to push through. They are clear requests to stop. Respecting those signals consistently is what builds trust over time. Giving your cat somewhere that genuinely feels safe and theirs, like a high-sided cat bed they can retreat to, means bonding happens on their terms. That’s always when it works best. How to build trust without forcing cuddles The goal here isn’t to get your cat to tolerate being held. It’s to help them feel genuinely safe around you — and once that shifts, everything else tends to follow. Start by letting your cat lead. When they come to you, offer a gentle stroke and stop before they pull away. That small moment of choice builds more trust than ten forced cuddles ever could. Repeated often enough, your cat starts to understand that closeness doesn’t mean losing control. When you do need to pick them up, keep it brief and make it worthwhile. Support their full body weight, hold them close to your chest, and make sure all four paws feel stable. A cat who feels like they might fall is a cat who’s going to wriggle free immediately. Even a few calm, well-supported seconds counts as progress. It also helps to pair handling with something good. Lift them gently, set them back down, then offer a small treat or a quick play session they love. Do that consistently and being picked up starts to feel less like a threat and more like the start of something worth staying for. Beyond the handling itself, think about the environment. A well-placed cat perch, a cosy hiding spot or two, and enrichment they actually engage with all lower background stress — and a less stressed cat is a more open one. Our cat collection has plenty to help you build a space they feel at home in. Small, consistent moments matter far more than grand breakthroughs. Trust builds slowly, but when it does, it sticks. Frequently Asked Questions How do I get my cat to like to be held? You can’t force a cat to like being held, but you can help them feel safer with it. Let them lead contact, keep lifts brief and well supported, and pair being picked up with something positive like a treat or play so handling feels predictable, not threatening. Why does my cat suddenly not want to be held? A cat can suddenly stop wanting to be held because handling starts to feel unsafe, overwhelming, or too restrictive for them. Changes in trust, stress, life stage, or past handling experiences can all affect this, and their body language usually shows discomfort before they struggle.

By Adele Busby
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15.07.26 July 15, 2026 Owning a Cat

How to stop a cat from scratching furniture

Scratching is one of those things that feels deeply frustrating when it’s your sofa taking the hit, but the good news is that learning how to stop a cat from scratching furniture is far more about smart redirection than strict rules. In this guide, we’ll walk you through why cats scratch, how to make a scratcher genuinely appealing, and simple ways to protect your furniture while your cat builds better habits. From claw care and deterrents to rewards and routine, these are practical steps that actually work in a real home. Why cats scratch furniture in the first place If you have ever come home to find your sofa looking like it lost a fight, you are definitely not alone. Scratching can feel destructive from our side of things, but for cats, it is completely normal behaviour. So, why does my cat scratch furniture in the first place? Usually, it comes down to a few very natural reasons. Scratching helps your cat stretch their whole body, especially their shoulders, back, and legs, which is why you will often see a big scratch after a nap. It also helps remove the outer layer of the claw, keeping it in good condition underneath. There is also the territory side of things. When your cat scratches the arm of the sofa or the stair carpet, they are not being difficult for the sake of it. They are leaving both a visible mark and a scent from glands in their paws. In cat language, that is a clear little message that says, “this is mine.” For some cats, scratching is emotional too. They may do it when they feel excited, overstimulated, unsettled, or even just full of energy. It can be a bit like us stretching, fidgeting, or pacing when we need to release tension. That is why punishment rarely helps. Scratching is not bad behaviour to “fix”, it is a normal instinct to redirect. Understanding that makes a big difference when thinking about how to stop a cat from scratching furniture. The aim is not to stop scratching altogether. It is to give them a better place to do it, like one of these cat trees and scratch posts, and make that option easier and more appealing than the sofa. Cornell University’s Feline Health Center notes that the only guaranteed way to stop a cat from scratching a particular area or object is to restrict access to it, which is rarely practical in a real home. The good news is that with the right setup, you really can stop cat scratching furniture becoming a daily battle. Make the scratching post the easiest option Most scratching posts fail not because cats are stubborn, but because they’re in the wrong place. Location, size, stability, and texture all determine whether your cat actually bothers — get those things right, and you’re most of the way there. Here’s what to think about when choosing and positioning a scratcher: Placement near problem areas or favourite napping spots. Cats scratch when they wake up and when they move through familiar territory. Put the post where the scratching is already happening, not tucked in a corner no one visits. Height and size. Your cat needs to fully extend their body when they scratch. A post that’s too short simply won’t satisfy. Look for something tall enough that they can stretch right up on their hind legs. Stability. One wobble and most cats write it off completely. The post needs to feel solid and secure every single time they use it. Texture preference. Some cats are devoted to sisal, others love cardboard or carpet. If you’re not sure what your cat prefers, try more than one and let them lead. Good to know: Most cats need at least two or three scratchers placed in different rooms. One near the sofa is rarely enough, particularly in a larger home. When you’re trying to redirect scratching away from a specific piece of furniture, place the post directly beside it — almost touching. It feels counterintuitive, but you’re simply meeting your cat where they already are. Once they’re using it reliably, you can gradually shift it somewhere more convenient. A tall, sturdy option like the Lords & Labradors Back to Nature 4-Tier Cat Scratch Post works particularly well for this, giving cats a satisfying full-body stretch in something that won’t tip or shift under their weight. Making the post the obvious, easy choice is one of the most practical steps you can take to stop cats scratching furniture — and it works best when paired with making the sofa a little less tempting at the same time. How to make furniture less tempting While you work on how to stop a cat from scratching furniture, it helps to make the sofa less rewarding in the meantime. These gentle deterrents are best used as a short-term backup, not a punishment. The goal is simply to protect your furniture while you show your cat where you do want them to scratch. Double-sided tape: Many cats dislike the sticky feeling on their paws, so a few strips on the sofa arms or favourite corners can help break the habit. It is harmless, but odd enough to make them pause. Furniture covers and throws: A thick throw, blanket, or fitted cover changes the feel of the surface and protects the fabric underneath. This can be especially helpful if your cat loves one particular arm or cushion corner. Citrus-style deterrent sprays: Many cats dislike citrus scents, so a light mist on favourite scratching spots may help. Always check the label carefully and only use a spray that is clearly marked as cat-safe. Blocking favoured corners: If your cat returns to the same spot every day, try placing a cushion, storage basket, side table, or another pet-safe obstacle in front of it for a while. Even a simple change in access can interrupt the routine. Scratch-deterrent mats: These textured mats attach to or sit against the sofa and make scratching feel less satisfying. They are easy to move if your cat switches to a new target. Quick tip: Deterrents work best when there is a better option right beside them. Put a scratching post or pad next to the area you are protecting, so your cat can immediately make the “right” choice. If you want an extra layer of protection while training, sofa toppers can be a really practical addition. They help shield the spots cats usually target, and they make life feel a lot calmer while everyone settles into a new routine. Trim, file, and care for their claws Trimming your cat’s claws won’t stop them from scratching altogether, but it will make a real difference to the damage they cause. Shorter, blunter claws are far less likely to snag fabric or gouge into wood, so keeping on top of nail care is a genuinely useful piece of the puzzle when you’re trying to stop cat scratching furniture. Start with paw handling. Before you bring out any clippers, spend some time getting your cat comfortable with you touching their paws. A gentle hold during a quiet cuddle is a good place to start — you want it to feel like nothing, not like something to brace for. Use the right clippers. Cat-specific scissor-style or guillotine clippers give you far more control than regular nail scissors, and they make a clean cut without splitting the claw. Find the quick. Hold the paw up to the light and look for a faint pink line running partway down the claw. That’s the quick — cut just below it and you’ll avoid any sensitive tissue. Keep sessions short. One or two claws at a time is absolutely fine, especially while your cat is still getting used to it. There’s no rule that says all four paws have to happen in one sitting. Always finish on a good note. A treat and a bit of fuss at the end goes a long way. Most cats come around faster than you’d expect once there’s something in it for them. Quick tip: For most indoor cats, trimming every two to four weeks is plenty to keep claws in good shape. Having a consistent, calm spot for grooming makes the whole routine feel less like a wrestling match. A dedicated cat washroom or grooming station keeps everything in one place, so you’re not hunting down clippers at the last minute and your cat knows what to expect when you head there together. Use rewards and routine to build a new habit Getting a scratching post in place is a brilliant first step, but it’s the consistent positive reinforcement that turns an occasional scratch into a genuine habit. This is honestly the most important part of learning how to train a cat not to scratch furniture, and the good news is it doesn’t need to be complicated or time-consuming. Guide your cat to the post. Gently carry them over or dangle a toy nearby to draw them in. You’re not forcing anything — just creating the right moment. Reward the second they scratch it. The moment their claws make contact, mark it with a bright “yes!” and follow up with a small treat. Timing really is everything here. Try a little catnip to spark interest. A light sprinkle on or around a plush cat scratch post can make a real difference, particularly for cats who’ve been slow to engage. Finish with a play session nearby. A few minutes with a wand toy next to the post helps build a warm, happy association with the whole area — not just the post itself. Keep it consistent. Right after meals or when your cat first wakes up are ideal windows. Cats are natural creatures of habit, so a predictable routine makes this much easier for both of you. Tip: Aim to reward within two seconds of your cat using the post. Any longer and they won’t connect the treat to what they just did. Most cats show clear progress within a few weeks when you stick with this. Keep sessions short, stay upbeat, and trust the process — the habit will come. When to upgrade your setup and keep the peace Sometimes, despite your best efforts, your cat still makes a beeline for the sofa. Before you feel defeated, it’s worth asking whether your current setup is actually giving them what they need. If they keep ignoring their scratcher, texture is often the culprit. Some cats are devoted sisal fans, others swear by corrugated cardboard, and a few will only scratch carpet. If you’ve only tried one material, experiment with another — it can make a surprisingly big difference. Size matters too. A wobbly post that shifts the moment your cat leans into it isn’t going to win them over. Cats scratch to get a full, satisfying stretch through their whole body, so a scratcher that feels tall and solid enough to do that job properly is far more likely to earn regular use. If you have the wall space, something like the Lords and Labradors Malmo Sling Scratch Wall Climber offers a sturdy vertical option that doubles as a climbing spot — the kind of thing many cats find genuinely hard to resist. Orientation is worth considering too. Not every cat wants to scratch vertically. Some prefer to stretch out horizontally on the floor, so offering both styles helps you land on what your cat actually enjoys. In a multi-cat household, one scratcher almost never cuts it. Cats can be territorial, so dotting a few options around different rooms reduces competition and gives everyone a reliable spot to call their own. The honest truth is that stopping cats from scratching furniture is mostly about building the right environment and sticking with it. With a little patience and the right setup, most cats genuinely do get there. Frequently Asked Questions What scent will deter cats from scratching furniture? Citrus-style scents can help deter some cats from scratching furniture. A light mist of a cat-safe citrus deterrent spray on favourite scratching spots may make the area less appealing, especially if you place a sturdy scratching post right beside it so your cat has a better option. Is furniture scratching a behavioral issue? Not usually — scratching furniture is a normal cat behaviour, not simply bad behaviour. Cats scratch to stretch, maintain their claws, mark territory, and release energy or tension, so the kindest and most effective approach is to redirect that instinct to a suitable scratching post rather than punish it.

By Adele Busby
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