13.03.24 March 13, 2024 Dog Breed Guide

Golden Doodle Ultimate Guide

Are you considering adding a Golden Doodle to your family? Or perhaps you're already a proud parent of one of these adorable and affectionate pups? Either way, you've come to the right place! In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into everything you need to know about Golden Doodles, from their fascinating traits and health considerations to grooming tips and dietary needs. Let's embark on a journey to discover the ins and outs of these wonderful companions. Golden Doodle Facts and Information The Golden Doodle, a crossbreed between a Golden Retriever and a Poodle, has gained immense popularity in recent years due to its charming personality and hypoallergenic coat. These designer dogs come in various sizes, ranging from miniature to standard, and exhibit a wide array of coat colours, including cream, gold, apricot, and chocolate. If you’re looking to get a Golden Doodle it’s definitely worth checking out both of our Golden Retriever and Poodle guides for information on each breed because after all your puppy will be a perfect blend of them both. Golden Doodle Personality and Traits Golden Doodles are renowned for their friendly and affectionate nature. They thrive on human companionship and are incredibly social animals, making them excellent family pets and therapy dogs. Their intelligence, combined with their eager-to-please attitude, makes them highly trainable and adaptable to various living situations. Golden Doodle Health Issues Like all breeds, Golden Doodles are susceptible to certain health issues. While they generally enjoy robust health, potential concerns include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and progressive retinal atrophy. Regular veterinary check-ups, a balanced diet, and adequate exercise can help mitigate these risks and ensure your Golden Doodle's well-being. Raising A Golden Doodle: Training and Socialisation Proper training and socialisation are crucial aspects of raising a well-behaved and happy Golden Doodle. Begin obedience training and socialisation early to instil good behaviour and prevent any undesirable habits from forming. Positive reinforcement techniques work wonders with this breed, as they respond eagerly to praise and rewards. Golden Doodle Training Tips Start training sessions early and keep them short to maintain your pup's focus and enthusiasm. Use positive reinforcement techniques such as treats, praise, and play to reinforce desired behaviours. Be patient and consistent with training, as Golden Doodles thrive on routine and clear expectations. Golden Doodle House Training and Crate Training House training and crate training are essential for teaching your Golden Doodle good manners and providing them with a safe and secure space of their own. Here are some tips for successful house and crate training: Establish a regular schedule for potty breaks and stick to it diligently. Use positive reinforcement and rewards when your puppy eliminates outside or in their designated potty area. Introduce the crate gradually, making it a comfortable and inviting space with soft bedding and toys. Never use the crate as a form of punishment, as it should be a positive and reassuring environment for your dog. Golden Doodle Crate Training Shopping List Dog crate - the first essentials for crate training is a crate. For Golden Retrievers we’d recommend an XXL in one of our deluxe dog crates Crate Bed - Our cosy and calming puppy crate beds are perfect for crate training your puppies Vet bed or puppy pads - to give your pup somewhere to relieve themselves that’s not their bed - accidents happen! Our Pet Experts have put together their top tips and tricks for crate training your Golden Doodle - read here Exercise Needs of a Golden Doodle Golden Doodles are energetic and active dogs that require regular exercise to stay healthy and happy. Aim for at least 30 to 60 minutes of physical activity each day, which can include walks, playtime, and interactive games. Tailor your exercise routine to your dog's age, size, and individual preferences. Best Walking Accessories For A Golden Doodle For a Golden Doodle you will need sturdy walking accessories, we recommend looking at leather collars and leads. Our padded leather collection is a perfect choice, the padding in the collars is comfortable for them to wear and the leads are super sturdy. Golden Doodle Dietary Needs A well-balanced diet is essential for maintaining your Golden Doodle's overall health and vitality. Opt for premium-quality dog food formulated specifically for their size, age, and activity level. Consult with your veterinarian to determine the optimal feeding schedule and portion sizes for your individual dog. Best Food For A Golden Doodle Puppy When selecting food for your Golden Doodle puppy, look for options that contain high-quality protein sources, essential vitamins and minerals, and limited fillers or additives. Choose a puppy formula designed to support healthy growth and development during this critical stage of life, we particularly like the Acana puppy food for this stage of life! Grooming Tips for Golden Doodles Golden Doodles have a unique coat that requires regular grooming to prevent matting and maintain its luxurious texture. Brush your dog's coat several times a week to remove loose hair and prevent tangles. Schedule professional grooming sessions as needed to trim their coat and keep it looking neat and tidy. In conclusion, Golden Doodles are delightful companions known for their loving demeanour, intelligence, and versatility. By understanding their unique traits, addressing their specific needs, and providing them with love and care, you can enjoy a fulfilling and enriching relationship with your beloved Golden Doodle for years to come. Remember, each Golden Doodle is a unique individual with their own personality and preferences, so take the time to nurture their individuality and celebrate the special bond you share. With patience, commitment, and affection, you can create cherished memories and embark on countless adventures together with your loyal canine companion. Invest in your Golden Doodle's well-being by prioritising their health, training, and grooming needs, and you'll be rewarded with a lifetime of joy, companionship, and unconditional love. Shop all the best things for your Golden Doodle in our collection here.

By Megan Willis

Golden Doodle Facts and Information

The Golden Doodle, a crossbreed between a Golden Retriever and a Poodle, has gained immense popularity in recent years due to its charming personality and hypoallergenic coat. These designer dogs come in various sizes, ranging from miniature to standard, and exhibit a wide array of coat colours, including cream, gold, apricot, and chocolate. If you’re looking to get a Golden Doodle it’s definitely worth checking out both of our Golden Retriever and Poodle guides for information on each breed because after all your puppy will be a perfect blend of them both.

Golden doodle laid in the grass

Golden Doodle Personality and Traits

Golden Doodles are renowned for their friendly and affectionate nature. They thrive on human companionship and are incredibly social animals, making them excellent family pets and therapy dogs. Their intelligence, combined with their eager-to-please attitude, makes them highly trainable and adaptable to various living situations.

Golden Doodle Health Issues

Like all breeds, Golden Doodles are susceptible to certain health issues. While they generally enjoy robust health, potential concerns include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and progressive retinal atrophy. Regular veterinary check-ups, a balanced diet, and adequate exercise can help mitigate these risks and ensure your Golden Doodle's well-being.

Raising A Golden Doodle: Training and Socialisation

Proper training and socialisation are crucial aspects of raising a well-behaved and happy Golden Doodle. Begin obedience training and socialisation early to instil good behaviour and prevent any undesirable habits from forming. Positive reinforcement techniques work wonders with this breed, as they respond eagerly to praise and rewards.

Golden Doodle Training Tips

Start training sessions early and keep them short to maintain your pup's focus and enthusiasm.
Use positive reinforcement techniques such as treats, praise, and play to reinforce desired behaviours.
Be patient and consistent with training, as Golden Doodles thrive on routine and clear expectations.

Golden Doodle House Training and Crate Training

Puppy sleeping in a dog crate

House training and crate training are essential for teaching your Golden Doodle good manners and providing them with a safe and secure space of their own. Here are some tips for successful house and crate training:

Establish a regular schedule for potty breaks and stick to it diligently.
Use positive reinforcement and rewards when your puppy eliminates outside or in their designated potty area.
Introduce the crate gradually, making it a comfortable and inviting space with soft bedding and toys.
Never use the crate as a form of punishment, as it should be a positive and reassuring environment for your dog.

Golden Doodle Crate Training Shopping List

Dog crate - the first essentials for crate training is a crate. For Golden Retrievers we’d recommend an XXL in one of our deluxe dog crates
Crate Bed - Our cosy and calming puppy crate beds are perfect for crate training your puppies
Vet bed or puppy pads - to give your pup somewhere to relieve themselves that’s not their bed - accidents happen!

Our Pet Experts have put together their top tips and tricks for crate training your Golden Doodle - read here

Exercise Needs of a Golden Doodle

Golden Doodles are energetic and active dogs that require regular exercise to stay healthy and happy. Aim for at least 30 to 60 minutes of physical activity each day, which can include walks, playtime, and interactive games. Tailor your exercise routine to your dog's age, size, and individual preferences.

Best Walking Accessories For A Golden Doodle

For a Golden Doodle you will need sturdy walking accessories, we recommend looking at leather collars and leads. Our padded leather collection is a perfect choice, the padding in the collars is comfortable for them to wear and the leads are super sturdy.

white and black dog with brown collar and lead

Golden Doodle Dietary Needs

A well-balanced diet is essential for maintaining your Golden Doodle's overall health and vitality. Opt for premium-quality dog food formulated specifically for their size, age, and activity level. Consult with your veterinarian to determine the optimal feeding schedule and portion sizes for your individual dog.

Best Food For A Golden Doodle Puppy

When selecting food for your Golden Doodle puppy, look for options that contain high-quality protein sources, essential vitamins and minerals, and limited fillers or additives. Choose a puppy formula designed to support healthy growth and development during this critical stage of life, we particularly like the Acana puppy food for this stage of life!

Grooming Tips for Golden Doodles

two golden doodles

Golden Doodles have a unique coat that requires regular grooming to prevent matting and maintain its luxurious texture. Brush your dog's coat several times a week to remove loose hair and prevent tangles. Schedule professional grooming sessions as needed to trim their coat and keep it looking neat and tidy.

In conclusion, Golden Doodles are delightful companions known for their loving demeanour, intelligence, and versatility. By understanding their unique traits, addressing their specific needs, and providing them with love and care, you can enjoy a fulfilling and enriching relationship with your beloved Golden Doodle for years to come.

Remember, each Golden Doodle is a unique individual with their own personality and preferences, so take the time to nurture their individuality and celebrate the special bond you share. With patience, commitment, and affection, you can create cherished memories and embark on countless adventures together with your loyal canine companion.

Invest in your Golden Doodle's well-being by prioritising their health, training, and grooming needs, and you'll be rewarded with a lifetime of joy, companionship, and unconditional love.

Shop all the best things for your Golden Doodle in our collection here.

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15.05.26 May 15, 2026 Dog Breed Guide

How Much Exercise Does a Beagle Need

If you've ever watched your Beagle bounce around the house like a furry pinball machine, you're probably wondering exactly how much exercise does a Beagle need to channel all that energy. The answer isn't as simple as a daily walk around the block—these spirited hunting dogs require a thoughtful blend of physical activity and mental challenges that evolves throughout their lives. From puppyhood through their golden years, we'll help you create the perfect exercise routine that keeps your Beagle happy, healthy, and blissfully tired at the end of each day. Understanding Your Beagle's Exercise Needs Beagles are natural athletes with boundless curiosity, originally bred to hunt alongside humans for hours at a time. This heritage means your Beagle comes hardwired with impressive stamina and an insatiable need to explore the world through movement and scent. When you're wondering how much exercise does a beagle need, think beyond just a quick walk around the block. These spirited dogs thrive on both physical activity and mental challenges to stay balanced and content. You'll likely notice that a tired Beagle is a happy Beagle—while an under-exercised one might redecorate your living room or serenade the neighbors with their famous howl. The wonderful thing about Beagles is their adaptability. Whether you're training for a marathon or prefer gentle evening strolls, your Beagle can match your rhythm with the right routine. Their daily activity needs shift dramatically throughout their lives, from the careful pacing required for bouncy puppies to the modified activities that keep senior dogs comfortable and engaged. Getting these evolving needs right makes all the difference in creating a sustainable exercise plan that keeps your Beagle physically fit, mentally sharp, and genuinely happy. Regular exercise becomes the cornerstone of everything from healthy joints to good behavior, setting you both up for years of adventures together. Exercise Requirements by Age: Puppies, Adults, and Seniors Understanding how much exercise a Beagle needs isn't straightforward since their energy levels and capabilities change as they grow. A playful eight-week-old puppy has very different requirements from a gentle nine-year-old senior. Striking the right balance is crucial to keeping your furry friend healthy and content. Puppies (2-12 months) Beagle puppies are bundles of energy, but protecting their growing joints from overexertion is key: - Follow the "5-minute rule": Allow 5 minutes of exercise per month of age, twice daily (e.g., a 3-month-old should get 15 minutes, twice daily). - Focus on short, frequent play sessions rather than long walks. - Include games like hide-and-seek and puzzle toys. - Avoid repetitive activities such as jogging or jumping until growth plates close, around 12-18 months. - Rest is just as important as activity for healthy development. Callout: The 5-Minute Rule This helpful guideline prevents joint damage as your puppy grows. For example, a 4-month-old Beagle should get about 20 minutes of structured exercise twice daily, along with plenty of nap time. Creating proper crate training routines ensures your puppy rests adequately between active periods. Adults (1-7 years) Adult Beagles have impressive stamina and high energy levels, needing regular outlets: - Aim for 60-90 minutes of varied activity throughout the day. - Include two structured walks and additional playtime. - Mix activities like hiking, fetch, agility training, or scent work. - Embrace these years as a time for exciting adventures and new experiences together. Seniors (8+ years) Older Beagles still require exercise, but comfort becomes more important: - Scale back to 30-60 minutes of gentler daily exercise. - Opt for softer surfaces and shorter distances on walks. - Swimming offers excellent low-impact exercise for aging joints. - Watch for signs of stiffness and adjust the routine as needed. Adapting your Beagle's routine to their life stage ensures they remain healthy and happy, protecting their joints while they enjoy many years of tail-wagging adventures. Mental Stimulation: Keeping Your Beagle's Mind Active While figuring out how much exercise your beagle needs, it's easy to focus purely on walks and runs while forgetting about their mental workout requirements. Beagles were bred as hunting hounds, which means their brains crave just as much engagement as their bodies do. Without proper mental stimulation, even a well-exercised beagle can turn into a four-legged tornado of destruction—think excessive barking, crater-sized holes in your garden, or your favorite slippers becoming unrecognizable chew toys. Here are tried-and-tested ways to challenge your beagle's brilliant mind: Puzzle feeders and treat-dispensing toys that transform mealtime into an engaging brain game Scent work games like hiding treats around the house or teaching them to find specific toys by smell Snuffle mats that tap into their natural foraging instincts Hide-and-seek with family members or favorite toys throughout your home Short training sessions focusing on new tricks or polishing existing commands (keep these upbeat and brief) Toy rotation system where you swap out playthings weekly to keep things fresh and exciting Did You Know? Just 15 minutes of focused mental stimulation can tire your beagle as much as a 30-minute walk. Mental enrichment isn't an add-on to your beagle's exercise routine—it's absolutely fundamental. A mentally satisfied beagle tends to be calmer, more responsive to training, and genuinely easier to live with. Watch for those telltale signs of contentment after brain games, because understanding your dog's body language helps you recognize when they're truly fulfilled rather than just physically knackered. This insight makes determining your beagle's ideal exercise balance much more tailored to their unique personality and energy levels. Off-Lead Safety Tips for Beagle Adventures Beagles were born to follow their noses across open countryside, and off-lead adventures let them express these natural hunting instincts while burning off their abundant energy. These moments of freedom transform routine walks into the kind of beagle daily activity that truly satisfies both their physical needs and their deep-rooted desire to explore. Safety comes first when transitioning to off-lead exercise: Master recall training before going lead-free - Start indoors, then move to a securely fenced garden. Your Beagle should return immediately when called, even when distracted by the most tantalizing smells. Choose enclosed spaces initially - Fenced dog parks, tennis courts, or secure fields give your Beagle freedom while keeping them contained when their nose inevitably takes over their brain. Start with short off-lead sessions - Five minutes of freedom beats an hour of your anxiety. Build up gradually as both your confidence and their reliability improve. Watch for "scent lock" - You'll know it when you see it: nose down, ears off, completely oblivious to your existence. Be ready to intervene before they follow that fascinating trail into the sunset. Keep high-value treats handy - A pocket full of something irresistible makes you infinitely more interesting than whatever they're investigating. Remember: A rock-solid recall isn't just helpful—it's your Beagle's lifeline during off-lead adventures. During training sessions, a reliable lead like the Lords & Labradors Essentials Herdwick Dog Lead gives you confidence while practicing recall work, knowing you have secure control when needed. With proper preparation, off-lead time becomes the crown jewel of how much exercise your beagle needs, delivering the mental stimulation and physical activity that keeps them genuinely content. Incorporating Lords & Labradors Accessories into Your Routine The right gear makes every Beagle adventure more enjoyable and safe for both of you. A well-fitted harness distributes pressure evenly across your Beagle's chest—especially helpful when they catch an interesting scent and suddenly pull toward it. This gentle control lets you guide them back to your walking routine without any discomfort. Interactive toys transform ordinary walks into engaging mental workouts. I love bringing a puzzle ball filled with treats on longer walks, giving your Beagle brain-stimulating breaks between physical activity. These moments satisfy their natural foraging instincts while helping you manage your Beagle's daily activity levels throughout the day. A hands-free lead attachment can be a game-changer during those energetic morning walks when your Beagle's ready to explore everything at once. You get better balance and control while allowing the natural movement patterns that support healthy exercise habits. Our Lords & Labradors Essentials Collection includes thoughtfully designed accessories that work with your Beagle's natural energy levels and physical activity needs. The key is choosing gear that enhances your routine rather than complicating it, making those daily walks something you both genuinely look forward to.

By Adele Busby
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24.06.26 June 24, 2026 Getting A Puppy

Why Do Puppies Bite So Much

If you have ever looked down at your hands after a play session and wondered why puppies bite so much, the good news is that you are dealing with one of the most normal things a puppy can do. In this article we cover the real reasons behind all that mouthing and nipping, how to teach your puppy to be gentler, and the simplest ways to redirect their energy to something more appropriate. We also help you recognise the moments when a little extra support from a vet or trainer might be worth reaching for. Why puppies bite so much in the first place If your puppy seems to bite everything and everyone in sight, you are not alone — and your puppy is not broken. Biting and mouthing are completely normal parts of early development, and once you understand why it happens, the whole thing feels a lot less stressful. The simplest way to think about it: a puppy’s mouth is their hands. Before they can explore, play, or communicate in any other way, they use their teeth. That table leg, your favourite jumper, your fingers at 7am before you’ve even had a coffee. All completely fair game as far as they’re concerned. A few things drive all that mouthing. Teething is a big one. Between roughly three and six months old, puppies are cutting new teeth, and chewing brings real relief from the discomfort. Then there’s play. Puppies learn how to interact through rough and tumble with their littermates, and they naturally bring that same energy into life with you. They’re also figuring out how hard they can actually bite, a process known as bite inhibition. When a sibling yelps and backs away, a puppy learns that biting too hard ends the fun. It’s a genuinely important life skill, and they need the chance to practise it. It’s also worth saying plainly: a puppy who bites a lot is not naughty or aggressive. They’re being a puppy, doing exactly what puppies are built to do at this stage. Understanding that is half the battle. The other half is making sure they have the right things to chew, play with, and explore from the very beginning. Teething, play, and overstimulation: the most common triggers Most owners asking why puppies bite so much will find the answer sitting in one of three places: teething discomfort, play instinct, or a puppy who has simply had too much going on. Once you know which trigger you’re dealing with, the behaviour starts to make a lot more sense. Common triggers to watch for: Evening zoomies followed by frantic nipping — an overtired puppy loses self-control fast, just like a toddler past their bedtime Mouthing during tug or fetch games — play drive kicks in and your hands become part of the fun Nibbling after a busy socialisation session — too much stimulation leaves puppies wired and struggling to settle Chewing fingers and furniture around 12 to 20 weeks — incoming adult teeth cause real discomfort, and puppies chew to relieve it Nipping when you reach down to stroke them — excitement and touch combine into a grabby, mouthy moment Biting during training sessions that run too long — concentration runs out and frustration takes over Worth knowing: Puppies start losing their baby teeth from around 12 weeks, with most adult teeth coming through between 12 and 24 weeks. This is one of the most intense periods for puppy teething, and it often explains why your puppy seems to be nipping constantly at this stage. Recognising these trigger moments is genuinely half the battle when it comes to how to stop puppy biting. The behaviour is completely normal at this age and usually peaks before gradually fading as your puppy matures. Keeping a good selection of puppy toys within easy reach means you can redirect quickly the moment you spot a trigger building — before teeth find your hands instead. How to teach bite inhibition without upsetting your puppy Bite inhibition sounds technical, but it really just means teaching your puppy that human skin is off-limits — and it is absolutely something they can learn. Understanding why puppies bite so much makes this easier, because you know it is not bad behaviour, just communication. Calm, consistent training works brilliantly here, with no raised voices or startled pups required. Stop play the moment teeth touch skin. Go completely still and quiet. Avoid pulling your hand away sharply, as that can actually make the whole thing more exciting for your puppy. Use a simple, neutral cue like “ouch” or “too much” in a calm, flat tone. You are not telling them off, just letting them know the fun has paused. Redirect to a chew toy within a few seconds. Offer it calmly and let your puppy settle into it. This gives them something appropriate to sink their teeth into. Reward gentle mouthing or soft contact with quiet praise or a small treat. You are reinforcing what you do want, not just reacting to what you do not. Keep it consistent across the whole household. Every person, every time. A quick note on consistency: Mixed signals from different family members are one of the most common reasons puppy biting stages feel like they drag on. If one person lets the puppy mouth their hands during a play session, the lesson starts to unravel. Everyone needs to follow the same approach. The goal is never punishment. It is clear, kind communication. When you understand why puppies bite, you can respond in a way that works with how they naturally learn — and that makes the whole process faster and far less stressful for everyone involved. What to do instead: redirecting to toys and setting your puppy up for success Once you understand why puppies bite so much, the solution gets a lot clearer: they need something better to sink their teeth into. Redirection is one of the most effective tools you have, and with a little consistency, it genuinely works. Swap immediately, not eventually. The moment teeth touch skin or clothing, calmly remove your hand and offer a toy instead. No drama, no delay. The swap itself is the lesson. Use cooling chews for teething relief. During a heavy teething stage, a chilled rubber chew can make a real difference. Pop it in the freezer for an hour before play and let the cold do the soothing work. Reach for the right toy. Lords & Labradors puppy toys are designed with teething puppies in mind, with textures and resistance that actually satisfy the urge to gnaw. A toy that feels good to chew is one that gets used. Keep play sessions structured. Short, calm sessions are your friend. Overstimulation turns even the gentlest puppies mouthy, so watch for the signs and wind things down before they tip over the edge. Build in calm-down breaks. If your puppy is too fired up to redirect, a quiet pause in their crate or pen gives them a chance to reset. Every redirect counts: puppies learn through repetition, so the more consistently you make the swap, the faster it sticks. Setting your puppy up for success really comes down to managing their environment and energy before biting becomes the default outlet. Keep appropriate chews within easy reach, keep play sessions manageable, and trust that small, consistent moments genuinely add up. When normal mouthing becomes a problem worth getting help for Most puppy biting is completely normal, and with consistency, it does ease off. But it’s worth pausing every now and then to ask whether something more might be going on. If your puppy’s biting still feels relentless after weeks of calm, consistent redirection, it’s worth talking to a qualified trainer. The same applies if bites are regularly hard and don’t seem connected to play, if your puppy snaps when anyone goes near their food, toys, or bed, or if their reactions feel more fearful than excited. None of that makes them a bad puppy. It just means you’d both benefit from a little extra support. Pain is worth considering too. Teething can make puppies genuinely sore and out of sorts, and some pups bite more simply because they’re uncomfortable. If your puppy seems distressed beyond the usual nipping and wriggling, a quick vet check is a sensible place to start. One of the most useful things you can do in the meantime is learn to read what your puppy is telling you before the biting even begins. Spotting the early signals makes it so much easier to respond well. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a really helpful starting point. And here’s the reassuring bit: for the vast majority of puppies, the biting does pass. With patience, the right toys, and a bit of guidance, most pups grow into gentle, settled dogs who’ve figured out how to use their mouths kindly.

By Adele Busby
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05.06.26 June 05, 2026 Getting A Puppy

How Long Can Puppies Walk? A Simple Guide

Knowing how long puppies can walk is one of those questions that sounds simple until you are actually standing at the front door with an excitable eight-week-old and no idea how far to go. The answer depends on age, breed, size, and how well you learn to read your puppy’s cues along the way. This guide breaks it all down, from a handy age-by-age walking chart to practical tips for building up distance safely as your puppy grows. How long can puppies walk? A simple guide for new puppy parents One of the first things new puppy parents want to know is how long their puppy should be walking each day. It feels like it should have a simple answer. But watch a ten-week-old Labrador tear around the garden and you might assume he could handle anything — when in reality, how long puppies can walk safely has very little to do with how much energy they seem to have. Age matters most, but breed, size, and overall fitness all shape the picture too. A four-month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has very different needs to a four-month-old Golden Retriever, even if both are equally determined to sniff every blade of grass along the way. The most widely used starting point is the five-minutes-per-month rule: five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy, then, would walk for around 15 minutes at a time. It is not a rigid law, but it exists for good reason. Puppies have soft, still-developing growth plates in their bones, and too much repetitive exercise before those plates close can cause real, lasting joint damage. A puppy who seems full of energy is not necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for long walks. This is especially worth keeping in mind in those early weeks, when everything is new and you are still finding your rhythm together. If you are just bringing your puppy home for the first time, walks are only one small part of what lies ahead — and there is absolutely no rush to do too much, too soon. The five-minutes-per-month rule, plus a handy age-based walking guide The five-minutes-per-month rule is one of the most widely shared pieces of puppy advice, and honestly, it’s earned its reputation. It gives you a simple, sensible starting point for figuring out how long puppies can walk at each stage of development. The idea is beautifully straightforward: allow five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy gets around 15 minutes per session; by five months, you’re looking at closer to 25. Puppy Age Max Walk Duration (Per Session) Notes 8 weeks 5 minutes Short sniff-and-explore outings only. Very gentle to start. 3 months 15 minutes Two short walks daily is plenty. Prioritise new sights and smells over distance. 4 months 20 minutes Puppy walking distance starts to increase slowly. Watch for signs of tiring. 5 months 25 minutes Confidence usually grows here. Keep surfaces soft where possible. 6 months 30 minutes Still very much a puppy, whatever their size might suggest. 9 months 45 minutes Larger breeds especially need restraint. Growth plates are still developing. 12 months 45–60 minutes Smaller breeds may be ready for longer walks. Always assess individually. Good to Know: This formula is a guide, not gospel. Breed size plays a big role. Giant breeds like Great Danes may actually need less than the formula suggests, because their growth plates take longer to close. And every puppy is different — some flag earlier than you’d expect, while others seem to have boundless energy regardless. Let your individual pup lead the way. When puppies can go for long walks really depends on breed and development, but most are ready for more substantial exercise somewhere between 12 and 18 months. Worth noting too: conditions like cold weather can cut any walk short, whatever the age. Our guide to walking your dog in cold weather is worth bookmarking before the temperature drops. No formula replaces actually watching your puppy. If they’re lagging behind, flopping down mid-pavement, or suddenly very interested in stopping — that’s your cue to turn for home. Why some puppies need less — or more — walking than others The five-minute rule gives you a brilliant starting point, but every puppy is different. Breed, body shape, and a handful of other factors all influence how long your puppy can safely walk — so it’s worth looking beyond age alone before you lace up your trainers. Breed size and growth rate: Larger breeds like Labradors and Golden Retrievers grow faster and carry more weight through their joints, making them more vulnerable to overexertion than smaller breeds at the same age. Flat-faced breeds: Bulldogs, Pugs, and French Bulldogs overheat and tire more quickly due to restricted airways, so their walks often need to be shorter and slower. Short-legged breeds: Dachshunds and Basset Hounds have a different skeletal structure that puts extra pressure on their spines and limbs, especially on uneven ground. Weather and heat: Puppies struggle to regulate their temperature, so on warmer days it’s worth keeping walks shorter and heading out earlier in the morning before the heat builds. Terrain: Rough, hilly, or slippery surfaces demand far more effort than a flat pavement stroll, even if the distance looks the same on paper. General health: Any illness, recent vaccination, or growth-related condition can change what your puppy can comfortably handle on a given day. One thing that catches a lot of new puppy parents off guard: a puppy who seems full of energy isn’t necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for more. Growth plates — the soft areas of developing bone — remain vulnerable to stress injury well into adolescence, long after your puppy looks completely tireless. Bouncy behaviour isn’t a green light to go further. Getting this balance right early really does pay off. Tailoring walks to your individual puppy’s needs protects their joints through the most critical window of development, and building a thoughtful routine now sets them up for a happy, active adult life. That investment in regular exercise only becomes more rewarding as they grow. How to build up your puppy’s walks without overdoing it Building up walks gradually is one of the kindest things you can do for a growing puppy. It takes a little patience, but the principle is simple: start small, add time slowly, and let your puppy’s body set the pace. Their joints and growth plates are still developing, and pushing too far too soon can cause real, lasting harm. Start short and stay consistent. Begin with just 5 to 10 minutes per outing, even if your puppy looks ready to run a marathon. Increase time gradually. Add a few minutes each week rather than making big jumps. Puppy exercise by age should always feel comfortable and well within their limits. Build in rest breaks. Let your puppy sniff, sit, or simply take a breather. That is not wasted time — it is part of the walk. Mix things up. A short training stop, a good sniff of the hedgerow, or a gentle play moment all count toward mental and physical enrichment. How much exercise a puppy needs goes well beyond steps. Choose soft ground where you can. Grass and earth are much kinder on young joints than pavement, particularly for bigger breeds. Signs your puppy has had enough Lagging behind or pulling toward home Sitting or lying down mid-walk Heavy or laboured panting Limping or favouring a leg Reluctance to move forward How far puppies can walk matters far less than how well they recover afterwards. Quality always beats distance. Long walks will come — you will know your puppy is ready when they bounce home looking like they could do it all again. If you have just welcomed a new puppy and want to get the basics right from the start, our bringing a new puppy home guide is a great place to begin. Off-lead or on-lead: what’s best for puppy walks right now? For young puppies, on-lead walking is almost always the safer choice — and not just for the obvious traffic reasons. Walking on the lead teaches your puppy to move calmly beside you, builds focus, and helps them take in the big, noisy world without getting completely overwhelmed. It also keeps distance in check. A puppy charging after every smell, stranger, or squirrel is covering far more ground than it looks, which can quietly tip into too much exercise for joints that are still developing. That said, off-lead time absolutely has its place. Secure, enclosed spaces where your puppy can sniff freely and potter about at their own pace offer something a structured walk simply can’t — unstructured exploration that’s genuinely tiring in the best way. It’s mentally stimulating, physically gentle, and great for confidence. The catch is recall. A puppy who doesn’t come back reliably yet is better off on a long line than given full freedom in open spaces. Get that foundation solid first, then gradually extend the trust. Whatever setup works for you right now, good gear makes the whole thing easier. A well-fitted harness spreads pressure across the chest rather than the neck, which matters a lot when your puppy is still figuring out how to walk on a lead without bouncing off it. Paired with a quality lead — like the Lords & Labradors Herdwick Dog Lead — even a short walk feels calm and in control. The right kit really does take the friction out of those early walks, for both of you.

By Adele Busby
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03.06.26 June 03, 2026 Getting A Puppy

What to Do If Puppy Cries in Crate at Night

Waking up to a puppy crying in their crate at night is one of those experiences that tests even the most prepared new dog parent, but it almost always has a perfectly simple explanation. In this guide, you will find out what to do if puppy cries in crate at night, from quick bedtime checks and calming routines through to knowing when the crying might be worth a closer look. A few nights of broken sleep does not mean you are doing it wrong, and with the right approach, things tend to improve faster than you might expect. Why your puppy cries in the crate at night — and why it’s usually normal If your puppy is crying in their crate at night, the first thing to know is this: you haven’t done anything wrong, and neither has your puppy. Nighttime crying is one of the most common experiences for new puppy parents, and it almost always means your puppy is trying to tell you something — not that they’re being difficult. Think about it from their perspective. Just days ago, they were curled up with their mum and littermates, surrounded by warmth and familiar smells, never once spending a night alone. Now they’re in a new home, a new crate, a new room, with none of those comforts to anchor them. A little protest at bedtime makes complete sense. There are a handful of reasons why puppies cry in the crate at night, and understanding them makes it much easier to respond with confidence rather than panic. The most common ones are: They miss their littermates. Sleeping in a warm, wriggly pile is all they’ve ever known. That kind of closeness doesn’t disappear overnight, and the adjustment takes time. They need the toilet. Young puppies genuinely can’t hold their bladder through the night. A cry at 2am is usually a real signal, not a bid for attention. They’re cold or uncomfortable. A crate that feels too bare or exposed won’t feel like a safe haven — it’ll just feel lonely. They’re overwhelmed. The first week in a new home is a lot for a small dog to process. By the time bedtime rolls around, many puppies are emotionally wrung out and finding it hard to wind down. Once you understand what the crying is actually communicating, you can respond in a way that helps rather than guesses. If you’re still putting the building blocks of your puppy’s sleep setup together, our guide to creating the perfect puppy sleep routine is well worth a read before the lights go out. First things to check before you settle in for the night Before you rethink your whole approach to crate training, it’s worth pausing to check the basics. A surprising number of puppies crying in the crate at night are simply reacting to something small and fixable — things that are easy to miss when you’re exhausted and just want everyone to sleep. Running through this short checklist first can save you a lot of unnecessary stress. Last toilet trip of the night. Take your puppy outside for a toilet break right before they go into the crate, even if they went out an hour ago. A full bladder won’t let them settle, and the discomfort will quickly turn into crying. Crate size. The crate should feel snug and safe, not vast and exposed. Your puppy needs just enough room to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Too much space can actually make them feel less secure, not more. Room temperature. Puppies feel the cold quickly, especially once the house cools down overnight. Make sure the crate is away from draughts, and tuck in a soft, washable blanket for warmth — just avoid anything that could cause overheating. Enough wind-down time before bed. Putting a puppy straight into the crate after a play session is a bit like trying to put a toddler to bed mid-bounce. Aim for 20 to 30 minutes of calm before lights out so their energy has genuinely settled. Is your puppy actually tired? A puppy who hasn’t had enough activity or gentle mental stimulation during the day will find it hard to switch off at night. Short, age-appropriate play sessions in the evening make a real difference. If you’re still in those early days of settling in, the advice on bringing a new puppy home is a great place to start. More often than not, working through this list resolves things before you need to make any bigger changes. It’s always the right place to begin. How to build a bedtime routine that helps your puppy settle Consistency is one of the most powerful tools you have when it comes to puppy crying in the crate at night. Puppies feel safer when they can predict what’s coming next, and a calm, repeatable bedtime sequence tells their brain it’s time to switch off. Do it the same way every night and you’ll likely notice the difference sooner than you’d expect. Final toilet break 45 to 60 minutes before crating. Take your puppy outside for a proper sniff around and a chance to go. A puppy with a full bladder won’t settle, no matter how cosy the crate is. Wind down activity levels. Put the squeaky toys away at least 30 minutes before bed and switch to something calmer — a gentle chew, or a quiet cuddle on the sofa. An overtired but overstimulated puppy is a recipe for a difficult night. Set up the crate with soft, inviting bedding. A plush blanket or well-padded crate mat makes a real difference. If it’s your puppy’s first night, tuck in a worn item of your clothing so your scent is there with them. Some owners also place a ticking clock nearby, which can mimic a mother’s heartbeat. Cover the crate. Draping a breathable cover over three sides creates a den-like feel that genuinely helps puppies settle. It cuts out visual distractions and signals that the crate is for sleeping, not watching the room. One last quick toilet trip right before crating. Even a two-minute garden visit is worth it to reduce the chances of a 2am wake-up. Use a calm, consistent verbal cue. Something simple — “bedtime” or “in your bed” — repeated every night helps your puppy start connecting the word with winding down. Lights out, minimal fuss. Keep your goodnight brief and warm, then leave. Lingering makes it harder for both of you. Quick tip: A crate cover is one of the simplest things you can do when crate training a puppy at night. Reducing what your puppy can see lowers stimulation and makes the space feel genuinely enclosed and safe, much more den than cage. Repeat this every night and you give your puppy something they genuinely need: predictability. Over time, that familiar sequence helps shorten the adjustment period, reduces how long your puppy cries in the crate, and builds quiet confidence in both of you. What to do if your puppy cries after you’ve put them to bed Knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is one of those things nobody quite prepares you for. You’re tired, your heart is a little broken, and you just want everyone to sleep. The good news is that you don’t have to choose between leaving them to it completely and rushing straight in every time. A calm, considered response is almost always the right middle ground. There are two situations genuinely worth getting up for. The first is a toilet trip — especially in the early weeks, when young puppies simply can’t hold their bladder through the night. If your puppy is under 12 weeks, or hasn’t been out recently, a quiet trip outside makes sense. The second is brief reassurance for a puppy still adjusting to sleeping alone. A soft word through the crate, or just a moment nearby, can help settle them without building a bigger habit around it. The mistake worth avoiding: going to them every single time they cry. Puppies are quick learners. If calling out reliably brings you back into the room, they’ll keep doing it — not out of stubbornness, but because it works. Even well-meaning responses can accidentally teach them that crying is the way to get your attention. You end up reinforcing the very thing you’re trying to stop. When your puppy cries, try these calm responses instead: Wait a minute or two before going in, to see if they settle on their own If you do go to them, keep your voice low and calm with no excitement or fuss Any toilet trips should be short, boring, and dimly lit Avoid eye contact, play, or picking them up unless it’s truly necessary Return them to the crate straightaway and leave without lingering Most puppies start to find their rhythm within a few nights once they learn that bedtime is quiet, consistent, and uneventful. The calmer and more predictable you can be, the sooner they’ll get there. And if you want to set the foundations before that first night even arrives, these tips for bringing a new puppy home are a brilliant place to start. When crying points to something more than a rough first night Most puppies cry in the crate at night simply because everything feels new and a little overwhelming. That’s completely normal. But part of knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is recognising when something beyond first-night nerves might be going on. These are the signs worth paying closer attention to: Crying that gets louder or more frantic after 30 to 60 minutes, rather than gradually fading Repeated accidents in the crate despite a toilet break right before bed Frantic pacing, spinning, or determined attempts to scratch or chew their way out Refusing food, water, or treats anywhere near the crate A sudden return to distressed crying in a puppy who had previously been settling well Normal whining vs. genuine distress: what’s the difference? Normal whining tends to be intermittent, softens over several nights, and doesn’t come with any physical symptoms. Genuine distress looks different. The crying escalates instead of easing, shows little improvement after a week, and may come alongside panting, drooling, or repetitive self-soothing behaviours like circling or excessive licking. If your puppy is showing physical symptoms alongside the crying — vomiting, diarrhoea, lethargy, or anything that suggests pain or illness — contact your vet. Don’t wait to see if it passes. If the crate itself seems to be the source of real fear rather than just mild protest, a qualified trainer or behaviourist can help you work through it in a way that feels manageable. It’s also worth thinking about timing. Introducing the crate too young or too abruptly can make the whole process harder than it needs to be. If you’re unsure whether your puppy is ready, our guide on how old you should be before crate training a puppy is a helpful starting point. Catching these signs early makes a real difference — for your puppy, and for your sleep. A calmer night starts with consistency, comfort, and a bit of patience Crate training takes time, and the first few nights are almost always the hardest. But stick with a consistent bedtime routine, respond calmly when your puppy cries, and make their space feel genuinely cosy — and things really do get easier. Most puppies settle into a rhythm faster than their bleary-eyed owners expect. The small things matter more than you might think. A right-sized crate, placed somewhere warm and familiar, with soft bedding your puppy actually wants to curl into, sets the tone for the whole night. Something like the Cosy Calming Puppy Crate Bed can genuinely help here — giving your puppy a snug, den-like space to settle into rather than somewhere bare and unfamiliar. Your response matters just as much as the setup. Keeping bedtime predictable, staying consistent, and not rushing in at every whimper all help your puppy learn that the crate is safe and that you are close by. It takes repetition, but it builds real confidence over time. If you have been lying awake wondering what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night, here is the honest answer: check the basics, build a routine, and give it time. Progress is rarely dramatic, but it is steady. One night you will realise the crying has stopped, the whimpering has faded, and everyone in the house is finally getting some sleep. Those mornings feel very well earned.

By Adele Busby
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