10.06.20 June 10, 2020 Getting A Kitten

The Advantages of Microchipping Your Pet - National Microchipping Month

June is national microchipping month here in the UK, so what better time to talk about what microchipping is and the benefits? Microchipping is one of the most effective ways of protecting your dog or cat in the event that they are lost or stolen. Thousands of pets are reported missing every year and a large proportion of those are never reunited with their rightful owner. The main reason for them not making it back home is the inability to trace their family. It’s now a legal requirement that all dogs and cats in the UK are microchipped Here we take a look at all the benefits and explain why we think you should definitely get your pets, cat and dog alike, microchipped. In this article, we will explore the benefits of microchipping, the laws surrounding microchipping for different pets, the procedure itself, and how to register and update your pet's microchip details. So let's dive in and learn more about this valuable tool in ensuring the safety and well-being of our pets. Microchipping Overview A microchip is a tiny ID device which can be scanned to identify a pet They are used to identify lost or stolen pets and reunite them with their owners It’s a legal requirement for dogs over the age of 8 weeks and kittens over the age of 20 weeks to be microchipped It’s a quick procedure which is relatively painless  What Is A Microchip? Microchips are tiny devices that are the size of a grain of rice, they are implanted just below the pet’s skin, usually by your Vet. It is a very simple procedure, similar to a vaccination that needs no anaesthesia or special treatment. The microchip carries all the important information needed to trace you, the owner, should your cat or dog lose their way. These microchips can then be read by a handheld device that will display the owners information. Most veterinarians and animal shelters will have one of these devices, so the chip can be read and the owner contacted if the pet is lost. Does Getting A Microchip Hurt? Your vet will use a needle to insert the microchip so it may be a little uncomfortable for your pet, however it only take a few seconds. Many pets don’t even notice! What Pets Can Be Microchipped? A lot of pets can be microchipped, the most common ones are dogs, cats, horses and rabbits. If you’re not sure your vet will be able to advise you on whether microchipping is suitable for your pet. What Are The Microchip Laws Microchipping Your Dog Laws Microchipping your dog is compulsory in the UK, we’ve put everything you need to know about microchipping your dog below: All dogs over 8 weeks old must be microchipped As a breeder it’s your responsibility to microchip any puppies by 8 weeks old As a dog owner it’s your responsibility to make sure your dog’s microchip details are up to date As well as having up to date microchip details, your dog should wear a collar with an ID tag on. You’re required to put your surname and address on the tag, we also recommend putting a contact number and ‘I’m Microchipped’ on there just in case your dog does go missing it will hopefully make being reunited that little bit quicker. Microchipping Your Cat Laws As of March 2023, it’s now the law to get your kitten microchipped before they’re 20 weeks old. The government have given owners until 10th June 2024 to microchip their cats As an owner it your responsibility to make sure that your cat is microchipped and that your details are up to date We recommend microchipping your cat if they are either indoor or outdoor, this way if they go missing you can ensure they’re easy to identify and return home Microchipping Other Pets Laws It’s not a legal requirement in the UK to have any other pets microchipped, it’s a good thing to consider. You can microchip most pets, including rabbits, guinea pigs, tortoises and other small family pets which are known for escaping. What Happens If I Don’t Microchip My Pet? If you’re pet is found without a microchip you could be served with an order to microchip them within 21 days, if you don’t do it in that time frame you could be liable to pay a £500 fine. How Do I Get My Pet Microchipped? To get your pet microchipped all you’ll need to do is make an appointment with your vet or another qualified person, some rescue centres have trained staff who can also microchip pets. The most important thing to make sure of is that whoever is microchipping your pet is trained to do so. The Benefits of Microchipping your Pet A microchip can’t be lost - Whilst an ID tag on a collar is useful, these can be lost or break off quite easily. Some indoor pets may not even wear a collar, in which case a microchip is an ideal way of ensuring your pet is traceable. A microchip offers definitive proof - If your cat or dog is stolen, the microchip offers definitive proof of ownership. A collar can easily be swapped, but a microchip can’t be removed. Microchips have been proven to increase the likelihood of your lost pet being returned - Whilst findings vary slightly from study to study, the overall findings are the same. Microchipped pets are much more likely to be returned to their owners than none-microchipped pets. Some studies find that the chances are increased by as much 50%. Some microchips now come with added capabilities - Some chips come with the ability to program them to a pet door flap so only your pets can come and go. This is really handy to stop other animals from accessing your house. How Much Does It Cost To Microchip Your Pets? It usually cost between £10-£15 to microchip your pet, however this varies depending on where you get it done. Some charities, such as Blue Cross, actually offer microchipping for free so it’s definitely worth seeing if there’s a rescue centre local to you that has a microchipping scheme. How Do I Register My Pet’s Microchip? When your pet gets microchipped they will give the microchipping database company your details. They will ask for your name, address, phone number, pet’s details and emergency contacts. If your puppy or kitten gets microchipped by the breeder they should give you a form or contact details for the microchipping company so you can update their chip with your details. How Do I Update My Pet’s Microchip Details? If you’re moving house or change phone numbers you will need to update your pet’s microchip details. How to do this will depend on which microchip database company your pet’s microchip is registered to (you can check this on www.checkachip.com), but usually you will have an online account that you can log in to and update any details. What Should I Do If I Rehome Or Sell My Pet Before you sell or rehome your dog we recommend updating the microchip database details to the new owners. What Should I Do If My Pet Is Lost Or Stolen If your pet is lost or stolen, we recommend calling your pet’s microchip database company straight away to report them missing. They will be able to check your details are up to date and flag on the system that the pet associated with that microchip is missing. This way if their microchip is scanned by a vet or a dog warden it will alert to them they’re missing or stolen, and they will then be able to get in contact with you and reunite you with your pet. How Long Do Microchips Last For ? Microchips are designed to last your pet’s lifetime. It’s very rare for them to become faulty or not scan, if this does happen the microchip company will usually replace it for free. So what are you waiting for?! If you haven’t already got your pet microchipped, then we’d strongly suggest doing so, you never know when you’ll need it!

By Zac Girdlestone

June is national microchipping month here in the UK, so what better time to talk about what microchipping is and the benefits?

Microchipping is one of the most effective ways of protecting your dog or cat in the event that they are lost or stolen. Thousands of pets are reported missing every year and a large proportion of those are never reunited with their rightful owner. The main reason for them not making it back home is the inability to trace their family.

It’s now a legal requirement that all dogs and cats in the UK are microchipped Here we take a look at all the benefits and explain why we think you should definitely get your pets, cat and dog alike, microchipped.

In this article, we will explore the benefits of microchipping, the laws surrounding microchipping for different pets, the procedure itself, and how to register and update your pet's microchip details. So let's dive in and learn more about this valuable tool in ensuring the safety and well-being of our pets.

Microchipping Overview

A microchip is a tiny ID device which can be scanned to identify a pet
They are used to identify lost or stolen pets and reunite them with their owners
It’s a legal requirement for dogs over the age of 8 weeks and kittens over the age of 20 weeks to be microchipped
It’s a quick procedure which is relatively painless

What Is A Microchip?

Microchips are tiny devices that are the size of a grain of rice, they are implanted just below the pet’s skin, usually by your Vet. It is a very simple procedure, similar to a vaccination that needs no anaesthesia or special treatment. The microchip carries all the important information needed to trace you, the owner, should your cat or dog lose their way.

These microchips can then be read by a handheld device that will display the owners information. Most veterinarians and animal shelters will have one of these devices, so the chip can be read and the owner contacted if the pet is lost.

Ginger cat being microchipped

Does Getting A Microchip Hurt?

Your vet will use a needle to insert the microchip so it may be a little uncomfortable for your pet, however it only take a few seconds. Many pets don’t even notice!

What Pets Can Be Microchipped?

A lot of pets can be microchipped, the most common ones are dogs, cats, horses and rabbits. If you’re not sure your vet will be able to advise you on whether microchipping is suitable for your pet.

Labrador at the vets

What Are The Microchip Laws

Microchipping Your Dog Laws

Microchipping your dog is compulsory in the UK, we’ve put everything you need to know about microchipping your dog below:

All dogs over 8 weeks old must be microchipped
As a breeder it’s your responsibility to microchip any puppies by 8 weeks old
As a dog owner it’s your responsibility to make sure your dog’s microchip details are up to date
As well as having up to date microchip details, your dog should wear a collar with an ID tag on. You’re required to put your surname and address on the tag, we also recommend putting a contact number and ‘I’m Microchipped’ on there just in case your dog does go missing it will hopefully make being reunited that little bit quicker.

Microchipping Your Cat Laws

As of March 2023, it’s now the law to get your kitten microchipped before they’re 20 weeks old.
The government have given owners until 10th June 2024 to microchip their cats
As an owner it your responsibility to make sure that your cat is microchipped and that your details are up to date
We recommend microchipping your cat if they are either indoor or outdoor, this way if they go missing you can ensure they’re easy to identify and return home

Microchipping Other Pets Laws

It’s not a legal requirement in the UK to have any other pets microchipped, it’s a good thing to consider. You can microchip most pets, including rabbits, guinea pigs, tortoises and other small family pets which are known for escaping.

What Happens If I Don’t Microchip My Pet?

If you’re pet is found without a microchip you could be served with an order to microchip them within 21 days, if you don’t do it in that time frame you could be liable to pay a £500 fine.

How Do I Get My Pet Microchipped?

To get your pet microchipped all you’ll need to do is make an appointment with your vet or another qualified person, some rescue centres have trained staff who can also microchip pets. The most important thing to make sure of is that whoever is microchipping your pet is trained to do so.

Golden Retriever having their microchip checked

The Benefits of Microchipping your Pet

A microchip can’t be lost - Whilst an ID tag on a collar is useful, these can be lost or break off quite easily. Some indoor pets may not even wear a collar, in which case a microchip is an ideal way of ensuring your pet is traceable.
A microchip offers definitive proof - If your cat or dog is stolen, the microchip offers definitive proof of ownership. A collar can easily be swapped, but a microchip can’t be removed.
Microchips have been proven to increase the likelihood of your lost pet being returned - Whilst findings vary slightly from study to study, the overall findings are the same. Microchipped pets are much more likely to be returned to their owners than none-microchipped pets. Some studies find that the chances are increased by as much 50%.
Some microchips now come with added capabilities - Some chips come with the ability to program them to a pet door flap so only your pets can come and go. This is really handy to stop other animals from accessing your house.

How Much Does It Cost To Microchip Your Pets?

It usually cost between £10-£15 to microchip your pet, however this varies depending on where you get it done. Some charities, such as Blue Cross, actually offer microchipping for free so it’s definitely worth seeing if there’s a rescue centre local to you that has a microchipping scheme.

How Do I Register My Pet’s Microchip?

When your pet gets microchipped they will give the microchipping database company your details. They will ask for your name, address, phone number, pet’s details and emergency contacts.

If your puppy or kitten gets microchipped by the breeder they should give you a form or contact details for the microchipping company so you can update their chip with your details.

Dog at the vets

How Do I Update My Pet’s Microchip Details?

If you’re moving house or change phone numbers you will need to update your pet’s microchip details. How to do this will depend on which microchip database company your pet’s microchip is registered to (you can check this on www.checkachip.com), but usually you will have an online account that you can log in to and update any details.

What Should I Do If I Rehome Or Sell My Pet

Before you sell or rehome your dog we recommend updating the microchip database details to the new owners.

What Should I Do If My Pet Is Lost Or Stolen

If your pet is lost or stolen, we recommend calling your pet’s microchip database company straight away to report them missing. They will be able to check your details are up to date and flag on the system that the pet associated with that microchip is missing. This way if their microchip is scanned by a vet or a dog warden it will alert to them they’re missing or stolen, and they will then be able to get in contact with you and reunite you with your pet.

Black and white cat having their microchip checked

How Long Do Microchips Last For ?

Microchips are designed to last your pet’s lifetime. It’s very rare for them to become faulty or not scan, if this does happen the microchip company will usually replace it for free.

So what are you waiting for?! If you haven’t already got your pet microchipped, then we’d strongly suggest doing so, you never know when you’ll need it!

Getting A Puppy

Puppy Teething Symptoms

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Why Do Puppies Bite So Much

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29.06.26 June 29, 2026 Getting A Puppy

Puppy Teething Symptoms

Sore gums, mystery teeth marks on the furniture, a puppy who seems a little off but you can’t quite put your finger on why — puppy teething symptoms have a way of creeping up before you’ve even thought to look for them. In this guide, we’ll walk you through what’s actually happening inside your puppy’s mouth, what the teething timeline looks like, and how to tell normal discomfort from something worth a vet call. You’ll also find some genuinely simple ways to soothe sore gums at home and keep the chewing pointed in the right direction. What puppy teething symptoms look like in everyday life Most puppy parents notice something is off before they even think to connect it to teething. The shoes have mysteriously acquired teeth marks, your puppy is mouthing your hands more than usual, and they seem a little out of sorts in general. Sound familiar? Once you know what to look for, the whole picture starts to make sense. The most obvious sign is a sudden surge in chewing. Everything becomes fair game: furniture corners, skirting boards, your favourite jumper. Alongside this, you might notice your puppy dribbling more than usual or pawing at their mouth. If you gently lift their lip, look for gums that appear a little red or puffy, especially around the spots where new teeth are starting to push through. Nipping tends to increase too, and it can feel more frantic than playful. This is not your puppy being difficult or defiant. Their gums are genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing brings relief. Giving them appropriate things to gnaw on, like textured puppy toys designed with teething in mind, makes a real difference at this stage. A fussier mood is also completely normal. Some puppies go off their food for a day or two, sleep more restlessly, or simply seem a little flat compared to their usual bouncy selves. It will pass. Spotting these puppy teething signs for what they actually are helps you respond with patience rather than frustration. That is better for your puppy, and honestly, better for you too. When puppy teething starts and when it usually ends Puppy teething symptoms can feel like they’ve come out of nowhere, but the process actually begins earlier than most people realise. Baby teeth start pushing through from around 3 to 8 weeks of age, and by 12 to 16 weeks, adult teeth begin replacing them. The whole stage typically wraps up by around 6 to 7 months, so as relentless as it feels right now, it really is temporary. Here’s how the puppy teething timeline usually unfolds: 0 to 3 weeks — Puppies are born without teeth. Gums are soft, and there’s no discomfort yet. 3 to 8 weeks — Baby teeth (also called milk teeth) begin coming through. Most puppies have their full set of 28 by around 8 weeks. 12 to 16 weeks — Adult teeth start pushing through. This is when puppy teething signs tend to become most noticeable, with chewing and drooling ramping up noticeably. 4 to 6 months — Adult teeth continue replacing baby teeth. Don’t be surprised if you find a tiny tooth on the kitchen floor. 6 to 7 months — The full set of 42 adult teeth is usually in place. Worth knowing: Most puppies have all 42 adult teeth by 6 to 7 months. That’s the finish line, and it will arrive. How long puppies teethe and how intensely they feel it does vary. Larger breeds sometimes experience more pronounced discomfort, and some puppies are just more sensitive than others. If your pup seems particularly restless or chew-obsessed, that’s usually why. Getting the right supplies together early makes the whole stage far more manageable. Lords & Labradors’ puppy collection is a great starting point if you’re building your teething toolkit. Why teething makes puppies chew, bite, and act out If your puppy seems to be chewing everything in sight, nipping at your hands, or waking you up at odd hours, take a breath — this is not a sign that you’ve got a troublesome pup on your hands. These are classic puppy teething symptoms, and they’re almost always your puppy’s way of telling you their mouth is uncomfortable. During teething, the gums become inflamed as adult teeth push through the tissue. That pressure and sensitivity is genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing provides just enough counter-pressure to bring some relief. Think of it like a human baby reaching for anything they can gnaw on. Your puppy isn’t acting out — they’re coping. The most common behavioural signs linked to teething discomfort include: Chewing furniture, skirting boards, and shoes — anything firm that creates that satisfying counter-pressure Destroying bedding or soft furnishings, which tends to ramp up at night when there’s nothing else to redirect their attention to Mouthing or grabbing hands during play, often more persistently than usual Eating more slowly or briefly going off food because chewing feels sore Drooling more than normal, thanks to increased saliva production during teething Seeming restless or unsettled at bedtime, especially during the most intense teething weeks All of this is temporary. Once you understand it’s physical discomfort driving the behaviour rather than wilfulness, it becomes a lot easier to respond with patience and redirect your puppy calmly. How to soothe sore gums at home Once you’ve started recognising the puppy teething symptoms your pup is showing, the focus naturally shifts from spotting the signs to actually making them feel better. The good news? There’s plenty you can do at home, and most of it is simple. Offer puppy-safe chew toys designed with teething in mind. Softer rubber or nylon options give sore gums something satisfying to work on without causing damage. It’s worth having a few different styles on the go — browse puppy-safe chew toys to find options suited to your pup’s size and chew strength. Try a briefly chilled damp flannel. Wet a cloth, pop it in the fridge for 20 minutes, then let your puppy gnaw on it. The gentle coolness soothes inflamed gums without the risks that come with frozen items. Rotate toys regularly. Puppies lose interest quickly, so swapping things out every day or two keeps chewing directed at the right targets rather than your skirting boards. Stay nearby during chewing sessions. Supervising means you can calmly redirect your pup the moment they switch from their toy to your favourite chair leg — and they will try. Redirect rather than just remove. When your puppy goes for something off-limits, swap it straight away with an appropriate toy. A firm “no” on its own rarely gets the message across at this age. What to avoid: Hard bones or antlers, which can crack sensitive puppy teeth Frozen solid items like ice cubes, which are too harsh on sore gums Small objects that could become a choking hazard Human teething gels, particularly anything containing xylitol, which is toxic to dogs With the right puppy teething remedies to hand and a little consistency, this phase is genuinely manageable — for your puppy and for your home. When puppy teething symptoms need a vet check Most puppy teething symptoms are completely normal, and the vast majority of what you’ll see at home doesn’t need anything more than patience and a good chew toy. A little blood on a toy? Perfectly expected. The odd wobbly or missing tooth? All part of it. Mild drooling, pink-tinged gums, and a puppy who’s grumpier than usual during peak teething weeks are nothing to panic about. That said, a few signs are worth watching more closely: Gums that look very swollen, deeply red, or are bleeding heavily and not settling A baby tooth that hasn’t fallen out after the adult tooth has already come through Persistent refusal to eat, even soft or wet food Breath that smells genuinely foul — not just normal puppy breath, but sharp or rotten Lethargy, a fever, or anything else that makes your puppy seem off in a general way If one of these pops up, give it a day and see whether things settle. If they don’t, trust your gut and call your vet. You know your puppy better than anyone. For everything else, the right support and a few good chews will carry you both through. Just getting started with a new pup? Our guide to bringing a puppy home covers those early weeks brilliantly.

By Adele Busby
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24.06.26 June 24, 2026 Getting A Puppy

Why Do Puppies Bite So Much

If you have ever looked down at your hands after a play session and wondered why puppies bite so much, the good news is that you are dealing with one of the most normal things a puppy can do. In this article we cover the real reasons behind all that mouthing and nipping, how to teach your puppy to be gentler, and the simplest ways to redirect their energy to something more appropriate. We also help you recognise the moments when a little extra support from a vet or trainer might be worth reaching for. Why puppies bite so much in the first place If your puppy seems to bite everything and everyone in sight, you are not alone — and your puppy is not broken. Biting and mouthing are completely normal parts of early development, and once you understand why it happens, the whole thing feels a lot less stressful. The simplest way to think about it: a puppy’s mouth is their hands. Before they can explore, play, or communicate in any other way, they use their teeth. That table leg, your favourite jumper, your fingers at 7am before you’ve even had a coffee. All completely fair game as far as they’re concerned. A few things drive all that mouthing. Teething is a big one. Between roughly three and six months old, puppies are cutting new teeth, and chewing brings real relief from the discomfort. Then there’s play. Puppies learn how to interact through rough and tumble with their littermates, and they naturally bring that same energy into life with you. They’re also figuring out how hard they can actually bite, a process known as bite inhibition. When a sibling yelps and backs away, a puppy learns that biting too hard ends the fun. It’s a genuinely important life skill, and they need the chance to practise it. It’s also worth saying plainly: a puppy who bites a lot is not naughty or aggressive. They’re being a puppy, doing exactly what puppies are built to do at this stage. Understanding that is half the battle. The other half is making sure they have the right things to chew, play with, and explore from the very beginning. Teething, play, and overstimulation: the most common triggers Most owners asking why puppies bite so much will find the answer sitting in one of three places: teething discomfort, play instinct, or a puppy who has simply had too much going on. Once you know which trigger you’re dealing with, the behaviour starts to make a lot more sense. Common triggers to watch for: Evening zoomies followed by frantic nipping — an overtired puppy loses self-control fast, just like a toddler past their bedtime Mouthing during tug or fetch games — play drive kicks in and your hands become part of the fun Nibbling after a busy socialisation session — too much stimulation leaves puppies wired and struggling to settle Chewing fingers and furniture around 12 to 20 weeks — incoming adult teeth cause real discomfort, and puppies chew to relieve it Nipping when you reach down to stroke them — excitement and touch combine into a grabby, mouthy moment Biting during training sessions that run too long — concentration runs out and frustration takes over Worth knowing: Puppies start losing their baby teeth from around 12 weeks, with most adult teeth coming through between 12 and 24 weeks. This is one of the most intense periods for puppy teething, and it often explains why your puppy seems to be nipping constantly at this stage. Recognising these trigger moments is genuinely half the battle when it comes to how to stop puppy biting. The behaviour is completely normal at this age and usually peaks before gradually fading as your puppy matures. Keeping a good selection of puppy toys within easy reach means you can redirect quickly the moment you spot a trigger building — before teeth find your hands instead. How to teach bite inhibition without upsetting your puppy Bite inhibition sounds technical, but it really just means teaching your puppy that human skin is off-limits — and it is absolutely something they can learn. Understanding why puppies bite so much makes this easier, because you know it is not bad behaviour, just communication. Calm, consistent training works brilliantly here, with no raised voices or startled pups required. Stop play the moment teeth touch skin. Go completely still and quiet. Avoid pulling your hand away sharply, as that can actually make the whole thing more exciting for your puppy. Use a simple, neutral cue like “ouch” or “too much” in a calm, flat tone. You are not telling them off, just letting them know the fun has paused. Redirect to a chew toy within a few seconds. Offer it calmly and let your puppy settle into it. This gives them something appropriate to sink their teeth into. Reward gentle mouthing or soft contact with quiet praise or a small treat. You are reinforcing what you do want, not just reacting to what you do not. Keep it consistent across the whole household. Every person, every time. A quick note on consistency: Mixed signals from different family members are one of the most common reasons puppy biting stages feel like they drag on. If one person lets the puppy mouth their hands during a play session, the lesson starts to unravel. Everyone needs to follow the same approach. The goal is never punishment. It is clear, kind communication. When you understand why puppies bite, you can respond in a way that works with how they naturally learn — and that makes the whole process faster and far less stressful for everyone involved. What to do instead: redirecting to toys and setting your puppy up for success Once you understand why puppies bite so much, the solution gets a lot clearer: they need something better to sink their teeth into. Redirection is one of the most effective tools you have, and with a little consistency, it genuinely works. Swap immediately, not eventually. The moment teeth touch skin or clothing, calmly remove your hand and offer a toy instead. No drama, no delay. The swap itself is the lesson. Use cooling chews for teething relief. During a heavy teething stage, a chilled rubber chew can make a real difference. Pop it in the freezer for an hour before play and let the cold do the soothing work. Reach for the right toy. Lords & Labradors puppy toys are designed with teething puppies in mind, with textures and resistance that actually satisfy the urge to gnaw. A toy that feels good to chew is one that gets used. Keep play sessions structured. Short, calm sessions are your friend. Overstimulation turns even the gentlest puppies mouthy, so watch for the signs and wind things down before they tip over the edge. Build in calm-down breaks. If your puppy is too fired up to redirect, a quiet pause in their crate or pen gives them a chance to reset. Every redirect counts: puppies learn through repetition, so the more consistently you make the swap, the faster it sticks. Setting your puppy up for success really comes down to managing their environment and energy before biting becomes the default outlet. Keep appropriate chews within easy reach, keep play sessions manageable, and trust that small, consistent moments genuinely add up. When normal mouthing becomes a problem worth getting help for Most puppy biting is completely normal, and with consistency, it does ease off. But it’s worth pausing every now and then to ask whether something more might be going on. If your puppy’s biting still feels relentless after weeks of calm, consistent redirection, it’s worth talking to a qualified trainer. The same applies if bites are regularly hard and don’t seem connected to play, if your puppy snaps when anyone goes near their food, toys, or bed, or if their reactions feel more fearful than excited. None of that makes them a bad puppy. It just means you’d both benefit from a little extra support. Pain is worth considering too. Teething can make puppies genuinely sore and out of sorts, and some pups bite more simply because they’re uncomfortable. If your puppy seems distressed beyond the usual nipping and wriggling, a quick vet check is a sensible place to start. One of the most useful things you can do in the meantime is learn to read what your puppy is telling you before the biting even begins. Spotting the early signals makes it so much easier to respond well. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a really helpful starting point. And here’s the reassuring bit: for the vast majority of puppies, the biting does pass. With patience, the right toys, and a bit of guidance, most pups grow into gentle, settled dogs who’ve figured out how to use their mouths kindly.

By Adele Busby
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05.06.26 June 05, 2026 Getting A Puppy

How Long Can Puppies Walk? A Simple Guide

Knowing how long puppies can walk is one of those questions that sounds simple until you are actually standing at the front door with an excitable eight-week-old and no idea how far to go. The answer depends on age, breed, size, and how well you learn to read your puppy’s cues along the way. This guide breaks it all down, from a handy age-by-age walking chart to practical tips for building up distance safely as your puppy grows. How long can puppies walk? A simple guide for new puppy parents One of the first things new puppy parents want to know is how long their puppy should be walking each day. It feels like it should have a simple answer. But watch a ten-week-old Labrador tear around the garden and you might assume he could handle anything — when in reality, how long puppies can walk safely has very little to do with how much energy they seem to have. Age matters most, but breed, size, and overall fitness all shape the picture too. A four-month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has very different needs to a four-month-old Golden Retriever, even if both are equally determined to sniff every blade of grass along the way. The most widely used starting point is the five-minutes-per-month rule: five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy, then, would walk for around 15 minutes at a time. It is not a rigid law, but it exists for good reason. Puppies have soft, still-developing growth plates in their bones, and too much repetitive exercise before those plates close can cause real, lasting joint damage. A puppy who seems full of energy is not necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for long walks. This is especially worth keeping in mind in those early weeks, when everything is new and you are still finding your rhythm together. If you are just bringing your puppy home for the first time, walks are only one small part of what lies ahead — and there is absolutely no rush to do too much, too soon. The five-minutes-per-month rule, plus a handy age-based walking guide The five-minutes-per-month rule is one of the most widely shared pieces of puppy advice, and honestly, it’s earned its reputation. It gives you a simple, sensible starting point for figuring out how long puppies can walk at each stage of development. The idea is beautifully straightforward: allow five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy gets around 15 minutes per session; by five months, you’re looking at closer to 25. Puppy Age Max Walk Duration (Per Session) Notes 8 weeks 5 minutes Short sniff-and-explore outings only. Very gentle to start. 3 months 15 minutes Two short walks daily is plenty. Prioritise new sights and smells over distance. 4 months 20 minutes Puppy walking distance starts to increase slowly. Watch for signs of tiring. 5 months 25 minutes Confidence usually grows here. Keep surfaces soft where possible. 6 months 30 minutes Still very much a puppy, whatever their size might suggest. 9 months 45 minutes Larger breeds especially need restraint. Growth plates are still developing. 12 months 45–60 minutes Smaller breeds may be ready for longer walks. Always assess individually. Good to Know: This formula is a guide, not gospel. Breed size plays a big role. Giant breeds like Great Danes may actually need less than the formula suggests, because their growth plates take longer to close. And every puppy is different — some flag earlier than you’d expect, while others seem to have boundless energy regardless. Let your individual pup lead the way. When puppies can go for long walks really depends on breed and development, but most are ready for more substantial exercise somewhere between 12 and 18 months. Worth noting too: conditions like cold weather can cut any walk short, whatever the age. Our guide to walking your dog in cold weather is worth bookmarking before the temperature drops. No formula replaces actually watching your puppy. If they’re lagging behind, flopping down mid-pavement, or suddenly very interested in stopping — that’s your cue to turn for home. Why some puppies need less — or more — walking than others The five-minute rule gives you a brilliant starting point, but every puppy is different. Breed, body shape, and a handful of other factors all influence how long your puppy can safely walk — so it’s worth looking beyond age alone before you lace up your trainers. Breed size and growth rate: Larger breeds like Labradors and Golden Retrievers grow faster and carry more weight through their joints, making them more vulnerable to overexertion than smaller breeds at the same age. Flat-faced breeds: Bulldogs, Pugs, and French Bulldogs overheat and tire more quickly due to restricted airways, so their walks often need to be shorter and slower. Short-legged breeds: Dachshunds and Basset Hounds have a different skeletal structure that puts extra pressure on their spines and limbs, especially on uneven ground. Weather and heat: Puppies struggle to regulate their temperature, so on warmer days it’s worth keeping walks shorter and heading out earlier in the morning before the heat builds. Terrain: Rough, hilly, or slippery surfaces demand far more effort than a flat pavement stroll, even if the distance looks the same on paper. General health: Any illness, recent vaccination, or growth-related condition can change what your puppy can comfortably handle on a given day. One thing that catches a lot of new puppy parents off guard: a puppy who seems full of energy isn’t necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for more. Growth plates — the soft areas of developing bone — remain vulnerable to stress injury well into adolescence, long after your puppy looks completely tireless. Bouncy behaviour isn’t a green light to go further. Getting this balance right early really does pay off. Tailoring walks to your individual puppy’s needs protects their joints through the most critical window of development, and building a thoughtful routine now sets them up for a happy, active adult life. That investment in regular exercise only becomes more rewarding as they grow. How to build up your puppy’s walks without overdoing it Building up walks gradually is one of the kindest things you can do for a growing puppy. It takes a little patience, but the principle is simple: start small, add time slowly, and let your puppy’s body set the pace. Their joints and growth plates are still developing, and pushing too far too soon can cause real, lasting harm. Start short and stay consistent. Begin with just 5 to 10 minutes per outing, even if your puppy looks ready to run a marathon. Increase time gradually. Add a few minutes each week rather than making big jumps. Puppy exercise by age should always feel comfortable and well within their limits. Build in rest breaks. Let your puppy sniff, sit, or simply take a breather. That is not wasted time — it is part of the walk. Mix things up. A short training stop, a good sniff of the hedgerow, or a gentle play moment all count toward mental and physical enrichment. How much exercise a puppy needs goes well beyond steps. Choose soft ground where you can. Grass and earth are much kinder on young joints than pavement, particularly for bigger breeds. Signs your puppy has had enough Lagging behind or pulling toward home Sitting or lying down mid-walk Heavy or laboured panting Limping or favouring a leg Reluctance to move forward How far puppies can walk matters far less than how well they recover afterwards. Quality always beats distance. Long walks will come — you will know your puppy is ready when they bounce home looking like they could do it all again. If you have just welcomed a new puppy and want to get the basics right from the start, our bringing a new puppy home guide is a great place to begin. Off-lead or on-lead: what’s best for puppy walks right now? For young puppies, on-lead walking is almost always the safer choice — and not just for the obvious traffic reasons. Walking on the lead teaches your puppy to move calmly beside you, builds focus, and helps them take in the big, noisy world without getting completely overwhelmed. It also keeps distance in check. A puppy charging after every smell, stranger, or squirrel is covering far more ground than it looks, which can quietly tip into too much exercise for joints that are still developing. That said, off-lead time absolutely has its place. Secure, enclosed spaces where your puppy can sniff freely and potter about at their own pace offer something a structured walk simply can’t — unstructured exploration that’s genuinely tiring in the best way. It’s mentally stimulating, physically gentle, and great for confidence. The catch is recall. A puppy who doesn’t come back reliably yet is better off on a long line than given full freedom in open spaces. Get that foundation solid first, then gradually extend the trust. Whatever setup works for you right now, good gear makes the whole thing easier. A well-fitted harness spreads pressure across the chest rather than the neck, which matters a lot when your puppy is still figuring out how to walk on a lead without bouncing off it. Paired with a quality lead — like the Lords & Labradors Herdwick Dog Lead — even a short walk feels calm and in control. The right kit really does take the friction out of those early walks, for both of you.

By Adele Busby
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03.06.26 June 03, 2026 Getting A Puppy

What to Do If Puppy Cries in Crate at Night

Waking up to a puppy crying in their crate at night is one of those experiences that tests even the most prepared new dog parent, but it almost always has a perfectly simple explanation. In this guide, you will find out what to do if puppy cries in crate at night, from quick bedtime checks and calming routines through to knowing when the crying might be worth a closer look. A few nights of broken sleep does not mean you are doing it wrong, and with the right approach, things tend to improve faster than you might expect. Why your puppy cries in the crate at night — and why it’s usually normal If your puppy is crying in their crate at night, the first thing to know is this: you haven’t done anything wrong, and neither has your puppy. Nighttime crying is one of the most common experiences for new puppy parents, and it almost always means your puppy is trying to tell you something — not that they’re being difficult. Think about it from their perspective. Just days ago, they were curled up with their mum and littermates, surrounded by warmth and familiar smells, never once spending a night alone. Now they’re in a new home, a new crate, a new room, with none of those comforts to anchor them. A little protest at bedtime makes complete sense. There are a handful of reasons why puppies cry in the crate at night, and understanding them makes it much easier to respond with confidence rather than panic. The most common ones are: They miss their littermates. Sleeping in a warm, wriggly pile is all they’ve ever known. That kind of closeness doesn’t disappear overnight, and the adjustment takes time. They need the toilet. Young puppies genuinely can’t hold their bladder through the night. A cry at 2am is usually a real signal, not a bid for attention. They’re cold or uncomfortable. A crate that feels too bare or exposed won’t feel like a safe haven — it’ll just feel lonely. They’re overwhelmed. The first week in a new home is a lot for a small dog to process. By the time bedtime rolls around, many puppies are emotionally wrung out and finding it hard to wind down. Once you understand what the crying is actually communicating, you can respond in a way that helps rather than guesses. If you’re still putting the building blocks of your puppy’s sleep setup together, our guide to creating the perfect puppy sleep routine is well worth a read before the lights go out. First things to check before you settle in for the night Before you rethink your whole approach to crate training, it’s worth pausing to check the basics. A surprising number of puppies crying in the crate at night are simply reacting to something small and fixable — things that are easy to miss when you’re exhausted and just want everyone to sleep. Running through this short checklist first can save you a lot of unnecessary stress. Last toilet trip of the night. Take your puppy outside for a toilet break right before they go into the crate, even if they went out an hour ago. A full bladder won’t let them settle, and the discomfort will quickly turn into crying. Crate size. The crate should feel snug and safe, not vast and exposed. Your puppy needs just enough room to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Too much space can actually make them feel less secure, not more. Room temperature. Puppies feel the cold quickly, especially once the house cools down overnight. Make sure the crate is away from draughts, and tuck in a soft, washable blanket for warmth — just avoid anything that could cause overheating. Enough wind-down time before bed. Putting a puppy straight into the crate after a play session is a bit like trying to put a toddler to bed mid-bounce. Aim for 20 to 30 minutes of calm before lights out so their energy has genuinely settled. Is your puppy actually tired? A puppy who hasn’t had enough activity or gentle mental stimulation during the day will find it hard to switch off at night. Short, age-appropriate play sessions in the evening make a real difference. If you’re still in those early days of settling in, the advice on bringing a new puppy home is a great place to start. More often than not, working through this list resolves things before you need to make any bigger changes. It’s always the right place to begin. How to build a bedtime routine that helps your puppy settle Consistency is one of the most powerful tools you have when it comes to puppy crying in the crate at night. Puppies feel safer when they can predict what’s coming next, and a calm, repeatable bedtime sequence tells their brain it’s time to switch off. Do it the same way every night and you’ll likely notice the difference sooner than you’d expect. Final toilet break 45 to 60 minutes before crating. Take your puppy outside for a proper sniff around and a chance to go. A puppy with a full bladder won’t settle, no matter how cosy the crate is. Wind down activity levels. Put the squeaky toys away at least 30 minutes before bed and switch to something calmer — a gentle chew, or a quiet cuddle on the sofa. An overtired but overstimulated puppy is a recipe for a difficult night. Set up the crate with soft, inviting bedding. A plush blanket or well-padded crate mat makes a real difference. If it’s your puppy’s first night, tuck in a worn item of your clothing so your scent is there with them. Some owners also place a ticking clock nearby, which can mimic a mother’s heartbeat. Cover the crate. Draping a breathable cover over three sides creates a den-like feel that genuinely helps puppies settle. It cuts out visual distractions and signals that the crate is for sleeping, not watching the room. One last quick toilet trip right before crating. Even a two-minute garden visit is worth it to reduce the chances of a 2am wake-up. Use a calm, consistent verbal cue. Something simple — “bedtime” or “in your bed” — repeated every night helps your puppy start connecting the word with winding down. Lights out, minimal fuss. Keep your goodnight brief and warm, then leave. Lingering makes it harder for both of you. Quick tip: A crate cover is one of the simplest things you can do when crate training a puppy at night. Reducing what your puppy can see lowers stimulation and makes the space feel genuinely enclosed and safe, much more den than cage. Repeat this every night and you give your puppy something they genuinely need: predictability. Over time, that familiar sequence helps shorten the adjustment period, reduces how long your puppy cries in the crate, and builds quiet confidence in both of you. What to do if your puppy cries after you’ve put them to bed Knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is one of those things nobody quite prepares you for. You’re tired, your heart is a little broken, and you just want everyone to sleep. The good news is that you don’t have to choose between leaving them to it completely and rushing straight in every time. A calm, considered response is almost always the right middle ground. There are two situations genuinely worth getting up for. The first is a toilet trip — especially in the early weeks, when young puppies simply can’t hold their bladder through the night. If your puppy is under 12 weeks, or hasn’t been out recently, a quiet trip outside makes sense. The second is brief reassurance for a puppy still adjusting to sleeping alone. A soft word through the crate, or just a moment nearby, can help settle them without building a bigger habit around it. The mistake worth avoiding: going to them every single time they cry. Puppies are quick learners. If calling out reliably brings you back into the room, they’ll keep doing it — not out of stubbornness, but because it works. Even well-meaning responses can accidentally teach them that crying is the way to get your attention. You end up reinforcing the very thing you’re trying to stop. When your puppy cries, try these calm responses instead: Wait a minute or two before going in, to see if they settle on their own If you do go to them, keep your voice low and calm with no excitement or fuss Any toilet trips should be short, boring, and dimly lit Avoid eye contact, play, or picking them up unless it’s truly necessary Return them to the crate straightaway and leave without lingering Most puppies start to find their rhythm within a few nights once they learn that bedtime is quiet, consistent, and uneventful. The calmer and more predictable you can be, the sooner they’ll get there. And if you want to set the foundations before that first night even arrives, these tips for bringing a new puppy home are a brilliant place to start. When crying points to something more than a rough first night Most puppies cry in the crate at night simply because everything feels new and a little overwhelming. That’s completely normal. But part of knowing what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night is recognising when something beyond first-night nerves might be going on. These are the signs worth paying closer attention to: Crying that gets louder or more frantic after 30 to 60 minutes, rather than gradually fading Repeated accidents in the crate despite a toilet break right before bed Frantic pacing, spinning, or determined attempts to scratch or chew their way out Refusing food, water, or treats anywhere near the crate A sudden return to distressed crying in a puppy who had previously been settling well Normal whining vs. genuine distress: what’s the difference? Normal whining tends to be intermittent, softens over several nights, and doesn’t come with any physical symptoms. Genuine distress looks different. The crying escalates instead of easing, shows little improvement after a week, and may come alongside panting, drooling, or repetitive self-soothing behaviours like circling or excessive licking. If your puppy is showing physical symptoms alongside the crying — vomiting, diarrhoea, lethargy, or anything that suggests pain or illness — contact your vet. Don’t wait to see if it passes. If the crate itself seems to be the source of real fear rather than just mild protest, a qualified trainer or behaviourist can help you work through it in a way that feels manageable. It’s also worth thinking about timing. Introducing the crate too young or too abruptly can make the whole process harder than it needs to be. If you’re unsure whether your puppy is ready, our guide on how old you should be before crate training a puppy is a helpful starting point. Catching these signs early makes a real difference — for your puppy, and for your sleep. A calmer night starts with consistency, comfort, and a bit of patience Crate training takes time, and the first few nights are almost always the hardest. But stick with a consistent bedtime routine, respond calmly when your puppy cries, and make their space feel genuinely cosy — and things really do get easier. Most puppies settle into a rhythm faster than their bleary-eyed owners expect. The small things matter more than you might think. A right-sized crate, placed somewhere warm and familiar, with soft bedding your puppy actually wants to curl into, sets the tone for the whole night. Something like the Cosy Calming Puppy Crate Bed can genuinely help here — giving your puppy a snug, den-like space to settle into rather than somewhere bare and unfamiliar. Your response matters just as much as the setup. Keeping bedtime predictable, staying consistent, and not rushing in at every whimper all help your puppy learn that the crate is safe and that you are close by. It takes repetition, but it builds real confidence over time. If you have been lying awake wondering what to do if your puppy cries in the crate at night, here is the honest answer: check the basics, build a routine, and give it time. Progress is rarely dramatic, but it is steady. One night you will realise the crying has stopped, the whimpering has faded, and everyone in the house is finally getting some sleep. Those mornings feel very well earned.

By Adele Busby
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