Does Everyone You Know Seem To Be Getting A New Pet?
If it feels like everyone you know is getting a new pet – you’re not imagining it. Pet ownership rose sharply in both the UK and the US when our lifestyles changed in 2020, and it has stayed at that higher level ever since, with around half of UK households now sharing their home with a pet. Add in the fact that social media feeds are full of new puppies and kittens being introduced to family and friends, and it’s easy to see why it feels like a nationwide trend – because it is one.
There was some discussion early on about whether this was a worrying ‘trend’ that would lead to lots of unwanted pets. In reality, for most owners it was the more responsible of us actioning a long-held plan to get a pet, choosing a moment when we could finally spend that all-important puppyhood or kittenhood time together. Equally, the surge in adoptions from rehoming centres can only be a positive thing.
Why It Feels Like Everyone Is Getting A Pet
A few things came together at once to drive the boom:
More time at home – remote and hybrid working made it practical to settle a new pet for the first time in many households.
A need for companionship – families and people living alone alike wanted a friend during long stretches at home.
Social media – photos of new puppies and kittens spread fast online, making the trend feel even bigger than it is.
Adoption surges – rehoming centres and shelters saw record interest, with many clearing their kennels entirely.
Who Is Getting New Pets?
The new wave of pet parents spans every generation:
Young adults living alone – often first-time owners looking for companionship and routine.
Families with young children – adding a furry sibling while everyone is around to help them settle.
Older adults – seeking quiet company, gentle routine and a reason to get out for a daily walk.
What Are The Most Popular New Pets?
Dogs of all sizes – from pocket-sized companions to big family breeds.
Cats and kittens – the lower-maintenance choice for busier or smaller homes.
Small pets – rabbits, birds, fish and other small animals, often a family’s first step into pet ownership.
Is Now The Best Time To Get A Pet?
Timing is super important when deciding whether to get a pet or not. Both cats and dogs will need quite a lot of attention, especially in the first few weeks when getting them settled; dogs perhaps even more than cats. Traditionally, settling in a new pet – the hardest, most time-consuming part of pet ownership – meant booking time off work. Now, with so many of us working from home at least part of the week, there’s a real opportunity to put that precious time into your new family member. House training, lead training and general bonding are all a lot more feasible when you’re around.
A key consideration, of course, is what happens when your routine changes. If you return to the office more often, take on new commitments or travel more, you’ll need to ensure you can still give your pet the appropriate amount of time and company in the long run. A pet is for their whole lifetime, not just for the season of life you’re in when you get them.
The New Normal For Pet Owners
One happy consequence of higher pet ownership is that the world is adapting around it. Pet-friendly offices, cafes, hotels and holiday lets are more common than ever, and hybrid working means many dogs enjoy far more company than the family pets of a decade ago. Fewer commutes also mean more time for walks, play and training – good news for pets and owners alike.
Links Between Pet Ownership & Health
There are many health benefits to owning a pet. The bond between people and pets is known to lower stress, increase happiness and also fitness. They can help improve our health in so many ways such as lowered blood pressure and cholesterol levels; decreased feelings of loneliness and increasing our opportunities for exercise.
How To Prepare For Your New Pet
If you’re preparing your home for a new pet there are a few things you’ll need to consider. You’ll want to make sure your home is safe for your new pet, know where they are going to spend most of their time and also make sure you have everything you need. Getting a pet should be fun so we have put a number of resources together to help you remember everything whilst staying stress-free!
We have some great advice on what to buy for new pets in our blog posts here:
Puppies: Everything You Need For Your Perfect Puppy Shopping List
Kittens: Everything You Need For Your New Kitten Shopping List
We also discussed how to prepare the home for puppies and kittens in our articles here:
How to Prepare For Your New Puppy
Cat Proofing Your Home
Frequently Asked Questions
Why Does It Seem Like Everyone Has A Pet Now?
Because ownership genuinely did jump. Millions of households in the UK and US became pet parents for the first time from 2020 onwards, and social media amplifies the effect – every new arrival gets shared with family and friends, so the trend is highly visible.
Did People Keep Their Lockdown Pets?
The vast majority did. While rehoming centres did see some pets returned as routines changed, most of the ‘lockdown generation’ of pets are still happily settled – and overall pet ownership remains well above pre-2020 levels.
What Should I Buy First For A New Pet?
Start with the essentials: somewhere safe and cosy to sleep, appropriate food and bowls, a collar or harness and lead for dogs, a litter tray for cats, and a few toys to help them settle. Our puppy and kitten shopping lists linked above cover everything step by step.
And don’t forget if you have any questions, we’re always here to help. Whether you’re a first time pet owner looking for product advice, or you have a question about something else pet related, we’re here to help!
If it feels like everyone you know is getting a new pet – you’re not imagining it. Pet ownership rose sharply in both the UK and the US when our lifestyles changed in 2020, and it has stayed at that higher level ever since, with around half of UK households now sharing their home with a pet. Add in the fact that social media feeds are full of new puppies and kittens being introduced to family and friends, and it’s easy to see why it feels like a nationwide trend – because it is one.
There was some discussion early on about whether this was a worrying ‘trend’ that would lead to lots of unwanted pets. In reality, for most owners it was the more responsible of us actioning a long-held plan to get a pet, choosing a moment when we could finally spend that all-important puppyhood or kittenhood time together. Equally, the surge in adoptions from rehoming centres can only be a positive thing.
Why It Feels Like Everyone Is Getting A Pet
A few things came together at once to drive the boom:
More time at home – remote and hybrid working made it practical to settle a new pet for the first time in many households.
A need for companionship – families and people living alone alike wanted a friend during long stretches at home.
Social media – photos of new puppies and kittens spread fast online, making the trend feel even bigger than it is.
Adoption surges – rehoming centres and shelters saw record interest, with many clearing their kennels entirely.
Who Is Getting New Pets?
The new wave of pet parents spans every generation:
Young adults living alone – often first-time owners looking for companionship and routine.
Families with young children – adding a furry sibling while everyone is around to help them settle.
Older adults – seeking quiet company, gentle routine and a reason to get out for a daily walk.
What Are The Most Popular New Pets?
Dogs of all sizes – from pocket-sized companions to big family breeds.
Cats and kittens – the lower-maintenance choice for busier or smaller homes.
Small pets – rabbits, birds, fish and other small animals, often a family’s first step into pet ownership.
Is Now The Best Time To Get A Pet?
Timing is super important when deciding whether to get a pet or not. Both cats and dogs will need quite a lot of attention, especially in the first few weeks when getting them settled; dogs perhaps even more than cats. Traditionally, settling in a new pet – the hardest, most time-consuming part of pet ownership – meant booking time off work. Now, with so many of us working from home at least part of the week, there’s a real opportunity to put that precious time into your new family member. House training, lead training and general bonding are all a lot more feasible when you’re around.
A key consideration, of course, is what happens when your routine changes. If you return to the office more often, take on new commitments or travel more, you’ll need to ensure you can still give your pet the appropriate amount of time and company in the long run. A pet is for their whole lifetime, not just for the season of life you’re in when you get them.
The New Normal For Pet Owners
One happy consequence of higher pet ownership is that the world is adapting around it. Pet-friendly offices, cafes, hotels and holiday lets are more common than ever, and hybrid working means many dogs enjoy far more company than the family pets of a decade ago. Fewer commutes also mean more time for walks, play and training – good news for pets and owners alike.
Links Between Pet Ownership & Health
There are many health benefits to owning a pet. The bond between people and pets is known to lower stress, increase happiness and also fitness. They can help improve our health in so many ways such as lowered blood pressure and cholesterol levels; decreased feelings of loneliness and increasing our opportunities for exercise.
How To Prepare For Your New Pet
If you’re preparing your home for a new pet there are a few things you’ll need to consider. You’ll want to make sure your home is safe for your new pet, know where they are going to spend most of their time and also make sure you have everything you need. Getting a pet should be fun so we have put a number of resources together to help you remember everything whilst staying stress-free!
We have some great advice on what to buy for new pets in our blog posts here:
Because ownership genuinely did jump. Millions of households in the UK and US became pet parents for the first time from 2020 onwards, and social media amplifies the effect – every new arrival gets shared with family and friends, so the trend is highly visible.
Did People Keep Their Lockdown Pets?
The vast majority did. While rehoming centres did see some pets returned as routines changed, most of the ‘lockdown generation’ of pets are still happily settled – and overall pet ownership remains well above pre-2020 levels.
What Should I Buy First For A New Pet?
Start with the essentials: somewhere safe and cosy to sleep, appropriate food and bowls, a collar or harness and lead for dogs, a litter tray for cats, and a few toys to help them settle. Our puppy and kitten shopping lists linked above cover everything step by step.
And don’t forget if you have any questions, we’re always here to help. Whether you’re a first time pet owner looking for product advice, or you have a question about something else pet related, we’re here to help!
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Dog Breed Guide
A Pomeranian's First Year: What To Expect And How To Prepare
Bringing a new kitten home when you already have a dog is one of those things that feels both exciting and quietly nerve-wracking — and you are definitely not alone in that. Knowing how to introduce a kitten to a dog in a way that feels calm and considered makes a real difference to how both pets settle in together. This guide walks you through everything from scent swapping and first meetings to escape routes, reading the signs, and building a routine that works for the whole household.
Before They Meet: What Your Dog and Kitten Need to Feel Safe
The most successful kitten and dog introductions happen long before the two animals are ever in the same room. That might sound counterintuitive, but the groundwork you lay in the days before their first meeting makes an enormous difference to how both pets experience that moment.
Start by thinking honestly about your dog. A relaxed, older dog who has met cats before is a very different prospect to a young, excitable terrier who still chases squirrels like it’s his life’s work. Neither situation is a deal-breaker, but knowing your dog’s temperament helps you set a realistic pace. If he has a strong prey drive or finds it hard to settle around small, fast-moving animals, plan for a slower introduction and be kind to yourself about the timeline.
Your kitten needs their own safe space before anything else happens. Set up a quiet room they can call their own — somewhere with a cosy bed, a litter tray, food, water, and a spot to hide if the world feels like too much. And to a tiny kitten, it often does. Letting them settle into a calm, familiar base before any introductions begin means they have a chance to find their feet rather than going straight into the deep end.
Your dog needs some reassurance too. Keep their routine as normal as possible: same walks, same mealtimes, same cuddles on the sofa. Consistency tells them that the new arrival is not costing them anything.
A slow start is not a sign things are going wrong. More often than not, it is exactly the right approach. For more on building a bond that lasts, our guide to getting your dog and cat to get along is well worth a read.
How to Swap Scents So They Get Used to Each Other
Before your dog and kitten ever share the same room, letting them get used to each other’s scent is one of the most important steps you can take. Smell is everything to both species. Giving them time to investigate each other’s scent on their own terms, without any pressure or expectation, helps take the edge off that first face-to-face meeting before it even happens.
The swap itself is simple. Take a blanket or soft toy from the kitten’s space and place it somewhere your dog can sniff freely, then do the reverse. A dedicated soft scent blanket works particularly well here because it holds scent effectively and moves easily between rooms. Then just let them get on with it. Some animals will sniff once and wander off. Others will circle back repeatedly over several days. Both are completely normal, and neither needs your input.
Signs of calm curiosity to look for:
Relaxed body posture, loose tail, soft ears
A gentle sniff followed by moving away unbothered
Returning to the item later without fixating on it
Settling nearby without any visible tension
Signs you should slow things down:
Growling or stiffening near the scented item
Fixated staring that doesn’t ease off
Pawing aggressively at a door or barrier
Your kitten hiding, freezing, or refusing to come out of their safe space
How each pet responds at this stage tells you a lot about how to pace the introduction going forward. Rushing the scent swap is one of the most common mistakes people make when introducing a kitten to a dog. Taking an extra few days here costs you nothing, and it can make everything that follows feel significantly calmer for both of them.
The First Face-to-Face Meeting: Keep It Short, Calm, and Supervised
When you finally bring your kitten and dog together for the first time, it can feel like a milestone — and in many ways, it is. But the goal for that very first meeting is actually quite simple: keep it short, keep it calm, and don’t leave either of them to it. Knowing how to introduce a kitten to a dog well comes down to patience and reading the room, not engineering a perfect friendship in one afternoon.
Pick the right moment. Choose a time when your dog has already been out for a walk or had a good play session and is naturally winding down. A settled dog is far easier to work with than one who’s still fizzing with energy.
Keep your dog on a lead with slack. A secure, well-fitted lead gives you gentle control without adding tension your dog might pick up on. Hold it loosely — the aim is guidance, not restraint.
Let the kitten call the shots. Place your kitten in the room and let them decide whether to creep closer or stay put. Don’t carry them over to the dog or try to hurry things along. Their confidence at this stage is everything, and it has to come from them.
Watch both pets closely. A relaxed dog will have soft eyes, a loose body, and general curiosity rather than intense fixation. For your kitten, watch for puffing up, hissing, or sudden stillness — all signs they need a bit more space and breathing room.
Keep it brief. Two or three minutes of calm, drama-free interaction is genuinely a brilliant first session. You can always build from there — and you will.
End before anyone hits their limit. Separate them gently while things are still going well, then give each pet their own space with something familiar nearby.
Good to know: Always wrap up the session before either pet shows signs of stress. Ending on a quiet note isn’t giving up — it’s exactly what a successful introduction looks like.
These early moments set the tone for everything that follows. The calmer and shorter each session feels right now, the quicker trust has a chance to grow between them.
Why Your Kitten Needs an Escape Route and a Dog-Free Zone
One of the most important parts of learning how to introduce a kitten to a dog is making sure your kitten always has somewhere safe to go. Escape routes and dog-free zones are not nice extras to think about later. They are a core part of the plan from day one.
If a kitten feels cornered, even a calm kitten and dog introduction can go off track quickly. Stress rises, confidence drops, and your kitten may hiss, swat, or freeze. Those early moments matter. When your kitten knows it can step away, it is far more likely to stay curious and relaxed instead of frightened.
The easiest way to set this up is to give your kitten more than one retreat option around the house. That might look like:
Baby gates with a cat-sized gap or low perch nearby. Your kitten can pass through or hop over, while your dog stays on the other side.
Cat trees, window perches, or shelving. Height helps kittens feel secure. From up high, they can watch what is going on without feeling pressured to interact.
A dedicated kitten room. In the early days, this can be a spare room or quiet corner with the door gated off. It gives your kitten a place to eat, nap, use the litter tray, and properly switch off.
A covered bed or crate left open. Some kittens love a small, cosy hideaway, especially after a busy introduction session.
Think about the route too, not just the resting spot. If your kitten jumps down from a shelf, can it get to safety without running past the dog? Can it move from one room to another without feeling trapped? These small details make introducing cats and dogs much smoother in real life.
Your kitten should always be able to remove itself from the interaction. That sense of choice is what builds confidence. Over time, a kitten that feels safe enough to retreat will usually feel safe enough to come back, sniff, observe, and eventually settle beside the dog on its own terms.
What Good Progress Looks Like — and When to Slow Down
Progress when introducing a kitten to a dog rarely follows a straight line. Some days feel like a real breakthrough. Others, it might seem like you’re back to square one. That’s completely normal — and knowing what to watch for means you can respond calmly rather than second-guessing yourself.
Signs the Introduction Is Going Well
Your dog glances at the kitten and looks away, showing curiosity rather than fixation
Both animals have loose, relaxed body posture when they’re in the same room together
Your kitten approaches the barrier or shared space with interest, rather than bolting
Your dog settles down and rests while the kitten moves around nearby
Both animals are eating, playing, and sleeping as normal, without signs of sustained stress
Signs You Need to Slow Down
Your dog is stalking, staring intensely, or can’t be redirected away from the kitten
Either animal freezes repeatedly when the other appears
Your kitten is hissing, spitting, or spending most of their time hiding rather than exploring
Your dog is barking, lunging, or whining in a focused, persistent way
Stress behaviours are creeping in regularly — think panting, pacing, or a change in appetite
A gentle reminder: Spotting a warning sign isn’t a failure. Stepping back a stage is exactly the right call. One slower day now saves a lot of stress further down the line.
Even the most experienced pet parents find that introducing a kitten to a dog takes longer than they expected. The key is staying observant and trusting what you’re seeing in front of you. Understanding your dog’s body language is one of the most valuable skills you can bring to this process — it helps you read the room early and respond before small moments of tension have a chance to grow.
Settling Into Everyday Life: Building a Routine They Can Both Live With
Once the early introductions are behind you, the real magic starts to happen in the everyday moments. Building a predictable routine is one of the kindest things you can do for both your dog and your new kitten — consistency helps anxious animals relax, and gives confident ones the structure to thrive.
Start with mealtimes. Feed them separately, in their own spaces, at the same times each day. It removes tension around food and helps both pets associate mealtimes with calm rather than competition. As trust builds, you can gradually move their feeding spots closer together — but there’s genuinely no rush.
Enrichment matters more than people realise. A bored dog is far more likely to fixate on the kitten, so make sure yours is getting enough exercise, mental stimulation, and quality time with you. A well-exercised dog is simply easier to manage around a curious new housemate. The same logic applies to your kitten. A good play session before they share a space can take the edge off for both of them.
Keep noticing and reinforcing the positive moments. When your dog settles calmly nearby, acknowledge it. When your kitten starts exploring without darting for cover, that’s real progress — even if it looks small. Those little wins add up faster than you’d expect.
Supervision doesn’t need to be constant forever, but in those first few weeks it’s worth staying present when they share a room. As you see them both relax, you can start stepping back.
Introducing a kitten to a dog well takes patience, but a thoughtful routine makes it so much easier to get there. Much like settling a new puppy into your home, the time you invest in those early weeks builds the foundation for something that genuinely lasts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for a dog to get used to a kitten?
It depends on your dog’s temperament and the pace of the introduction, so there isn’t a fixed timeline. Some dogs settle quickly, while others need a much slower approach, especially if they’re excitable or have a strong prey drive. Calm, short, supervised sessions usually lead to better long-term progress.
How do I tell if my dog wants to eat my kitten?
Watch for intense staring, stalking, barking, lunging, or a level of fixation you can’t easily interrupt. A dog who is coping well will look relaxed, stay curious without locking on, and settle while the kitten moves nearby. If your dog can’t disengage, slow everything down and add more distance.
How long does it take for a cat to get used to a new dog?
There isn’t a set timeline, because each kitten or cat settles at their own pace. Confidence tends to grow more smoothly when they have a safe room, escape routes, and short, calm introductions on their own terms. Steady, low-pressure progress matters far more than trying to rush a friendship.
Sore gums, mystery teeth marks on the furniture, a puppy who seems a little off but you can’t quite put your finger on why — puppy teething symptoms have a way of creeping up before you’ve even thought to look for them. In this guide, we’ll walk you through what’s actually happening inside your puppy’s mouth, what the teething timeline looks like, and how to tell normal discomfort from something worth a vet call. You’ll also find some genuinely simple ways to soothe sore gums at home and keep the chewing pointed in the right direction.
What puppy teething symptoms look like in everyday life
Most puppy parents notice something is off before they even think to connect it to teething. The shoes have mysteriously acquired teeth marks, your puppy is mouthing your hands more than usual, and they seem a little out of sorts in general. Sound familiar? Once you know what to look for, the whole picture starts to make sense.
The most obvious sign is a sudden surge in chewing. Everything becomes fair game: furniture corners, skirting boards, your favourite jumper. Alongside this, you might notice your puppy dribbling more than usual or pawing at their mouth. If you gently lift their lip, look for gums that appear a little red or puffy, especially around the spots where new teeth are starting to push through.
Nipping tends to increase too, and it can feel more frantic than playful. This is not your puppy being difficult or defiant. Their gums are genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing brings relief. Giving them appropriate things to gnaw on, like textured puppy toys designed with teething in mind, makes a real difference at this stage.
A fussier mood is also completely normal. Some puppies go off their food for a day or two, sleep more restlessly, or simply seem a little flat compared to their usual bouncy selves. It will pass.
Spotting these puppy teething signs for what they actually are helps you respond with patience rather than frustration. That is better for your puppy, and honestly, better for you too.
When puppy teething starts and when it usually ends
Puppy teething symptoms can feel like they’ve come out of nowhere, but the process actually begins earlier than most people realise. Baby teeth start pushing through from around 3 to 8 weeks of age, and by 12 to 16 weeks, adult teeth begin replacing them. The whole stage typically wraps up by around 6 to 7 months, so as relentless as it feels right now, it really is temporary.
Here’s how the puppy teething timeline usually unfolds:
0 to 3 weeks — Puppies are born without teeth. Gums are soft, and there’s no discomfort yet.
3 to 8 weeks — Baby teeth (also called milk teeth) begin coming through. Most puppies have their full set of 28 by around 8 weeks.
12 to 16 weeks — Adult teeth start pushing through. This is when puppy teething signs tend to become most noticeable, with chewing and drooling ramping up noticeably.
4 to 6 months — Adult teeth continue replacing baby teeth. Don’t be surprised if you find a tiny tooth on the kitchen floor.
6 to 7 months — The full set of 42 adult teeth is usually in place.
Worth knowing: Most puppies have all 42 adult teeth by 6 to 7 months. That’s the finish line, and it will arrive.
How long puppies teethe and how intensely they feel it does vary. Larger breeds sometimes experience more pronounced discomfort, and some puppies are just more sensitive than others. If your pup seems particularly restless or chew-obsessed, that’s usually why.
Getting the right supplies together early makes the whole stage far more manageable. Lords & Labradors’ puppy collection is a great starting point if you’re building your teething toolkit.
Why teething makes puppies chew, bite, and act out
If your puppy seems to be chewing everything in sight, nipping at your hands, or waking you up at odd hours, take a breath — this is not a sign that you’ve got a troublesome pup on your hands. These are classic puppy teething symptoms, and they’re almost always your puppy’s way of telling you their mouth is uncomfortable.
During teething, the gums become inflamed as adult teeth push through the tissue. That pressure and sensitivity is genuinely uncomfortable, and chewing provides just enough counter-pressure to bring some relief. Think of it like a human baby reaching for anything they can gnaw on. Your puppy isn’t acting out — they’re coping.
The most common behavioural signs linked to teething discomfort include:
Chewing furniture, skirting boards, and shoes — anything firm that creates that satisfying counter-pressure
Destroying bedding or soft furnishings, which tends to ramp up at night when there’s nothing else to redirect their attention to
Mouthing or grabbing hands during play, often more persistently than usual
Eating more slowly or briefly going off food because chewing feels sore
Drooling more than normal, thanks to increased saliva production during teething
Seeming restless or unsettled at bedtime, especially during the most intense teething weeks
All of this is temporary. Once you understand it’s physical discomfort driving the behaviour rather than wilfulness, it becomes a lot easier to respond with patience and redirect your puppy calmly.
How to soothe sore gums at home
Once you’ve started recognising the puppy teething symptoms your pup is showing, the focus naturally shifts from spotting the signs to actually making them feel better. The good news? There’s plenty you can do at home, and most of it is simple.
Offer puppy-safe chew toys designed with teething in mind. Softer rubber or nylon options give sore gums something satisfying to work on without causing damage. It’s worth having a few different styles on the go — browse puppy-safe chew toys to find options suited to your pup’s size and chew strength.
Try a briefly chilled damp flannel. Wet a cloth, pop it in the fridge for 20 minutes, then let your puppy gnaw on it. The gentle coolness soothes inflamed gums without the risks that come with frozen items.
Rotate toys regularly. Puppies lose interest quickly, so swapping things out every day or two keeps chewing directed at the right targets rather than your skirting boards.
Stay nearby during chewing sessions. Supervising means you can calmly redirect your pup the moment they switch from their toy to your favourite chair leg — and they will try.
Redirect rather than just remove. When your puppy goes for something off-limits, swap it straight away with an appropriate toy. A firm “no” on its own rarely gets the message across at this age.
What to avoid:
Hard bones or antlers, which can crack sensitive puppy teeth
Frozen solid items like ice cubes, which are too harsh on sore gums
Small objects that could become a choking hazard
Human teething gels, particularly anything containing xylitol, which is toxic to dogs
With the right puppy teething remedies to hand and a little consistency, this phase is genuinely manageable — for your puppy and for your home.
When puppy teething symptoms need a vet check
Most puppy teething symptoms are completely normal, and the vast majority of what you’ll see at home doesn’t need anything more than patience and a good chew toy.
A little blood on a toy? Perfectly expected. The odd wobbly or missing tooth? All part of it. Mild drooling, pink-tinged gums, and a puppy who’s grumpier than usual during peak teething weeks are nothing to panic about.
That said, a few signs are worth watching more closely:
Gums that look very swollen, deeply red, or are bleeding heavily and not settling
A baby tooth that hasn’t fallen out after the adult tooth has already come through
Persistent refusal to eat, even soft or wet food
Breath that smells genuinely foul — not just normal puppy breath, but sharp or rotten
Lethargy, a fever, or anything else that makes your puppy seem off in a general way
If one of these pops up, give it a day and see whether things settle. If they don’t, trust your gut and call your vet. You know your puppy better than anyone.
For everything else, the right support and a few good chews will carry you both through. Just getting started with a new pup? Our guide to bringing a puppy home covers those early weeks brilliantly.
If you have ever looked down at your hands after a play session and wondered why puppies bite so much, the good news is that you are dealing with one of the most normal things a puppy can do. In this article we cover the real reasons behind all that mouthing and nipping, how to teach your puppy to be gentler, and the simplest ways to redirect their energy to something more appropriate. We also help you recognise the moments when a little extra support from a vet or trainer might be worth reaching for.
Why puppies bite so much in the first place
If your puppy seems to bite everything and everyone in sight, you are not alone — and your puppy is not broken. Biting and mouthing are completely normal parts of early development, and once you understand why it happens, the whole thing feels a lot less stressful.
The simplest way to think about it: a puppy’s mouth is their hands. Before they can explore, play, or communicate in any other way, they use their teeth. That table leg, your favourite jumper, your fingers at 7am before you’ve even had a coffee. All completely fair game as far as they’re concerned.
A few things drive all that mouthing. Teething is a big one. Between roughly three and six months old, puppies are cutting new teeth, and chewing brings real relief from the discomfort. Then there’s play. Puppies learn how to interact through rough and tumble with their littermates, and they naturally bring that same energy into life with you. They’re also figuring out how hard they can actually bite, a process known as bite inhibition. When a sibling yelps and backs away, a puppy learns that biting too hard ends the fun. It’s a genuinely important life skill, and they need the chance to practise it.
It’s also worth saying plainly: a puppy who bites a lot is not naughty or aggressive. They’re being a puppy, doing exactly what puppies are built to do at this stage.
Understanding that is half the battle. The other half is making sure they have the right things to chew, play with, and explore from the very beginning.
Teething, play, and overstimulation: the most common triggers
Most owners asking why puppies bite so much will find the answer sitting in one of three places: teething discomfort, play instinct, or a puppy who has simply had too much going on. Once you know which trigger you’re dealing with, the behaviour starts to make a lot more sense.
Common triggers to watch for:
Evening zoomies followed by frantic nipping — an overtired puppy loses self-control fast, just like a toddler past their bedtime
Mouthing during tug or fetch games — play drive kicks in and your hands become part of the fun
Nibbling after a busy socialisation session — too much stimulation leaves puppies wired and struggling to settle
Chewing fingers and furniture around 12 to 20 weeks — incoming adult teeth cause real discomfort, and puppies chew to relieve it
Nipping when you reach down to stroke them — excitement and touch combine into a grabby, mouthy moment
Biting during training sessions that run too long — concentration runs out and frustration takes over
Worth knowing: Puppies start losing their baby teeth from around 12 weeks, with most adult teeth coming through between 12 and 24 weeks. This is one of the most intense periods for puppy teething, and it often explains why your puppy seems to be nipping constantly at this stage.
Recognising these trigger moments is genuinely half the battle when it comes to how to stop puppy biting. The behaviour is completely normal at this age and usually peaks before gradually fading as your puppy matures. Keeping a good selection of puppy toys within easy reach means you can redirect quickly the moment you spot a trigger building — before teeth find your hands instead.
How to teach bite inhibition without upsetting your puppy
Bite inhibition sounds technical, but it really just means teaching your puppy that human skin is off-limits — and it is absolutely something they can learn. Understanding why puppies bite so much makes this easier, because you know it is not bad behaviour, just communication. Calm, consistent training works brilliantly here, with no raised voices or startled pups required.
Stop play the moment teeth touch skin. Go completely still and quiet. Avoid pulling your hand away sharply, as that can actually make the whole thing more exciting for your puppy.
Use a simple, neutral cue like “ouch” or “too much” in a calm, flat tone. You are not telling them off, just letting them know the fun has paused.
Redirect to a chew toy within a few seconds. Offer it calmly and let your puppy settle into it. This gives them something appropriate to sink their teeth into.
Reward gentle mouthing or soft contact with quiet praise or a small treat. You are reinforcing what you do want, not just reacting to what you do not.
Keep it consistent across the whole household. Every person, every time.
A quick note on consistency: Mixed signals from different family members are one of the most common reasons puppy biting stages feel like they drag on. If one person lets the puppy mouth their hands during a play session, the lesson starts to unravel. Everyone needs to follow the same approach.
The goal is never punishment. It is clear, kind communication. When you understand why puppies bite, you can respond in a way that works with how they naturally learn — and that makes the whole process faster and far less stressful for everyone involved.
What to do instead: redirecting to toys and setting your puppy up for success
Once you understand why puppies bite so much, the solution gets a lot clearer: they need something better to sink their teeth into. Redirection is one of the most effective tools you have, and with a little consistency, it genuinely works.
Swap immediately, not eventually. The moment teeth touch skin or clothing, calmly remove your hand and offer a toy instead. No drama, no delay. The swap itself is the lesson.
Use cooling chews for teething relief. During a heavy teething stage, a chilled rubber chew can make a real difference. Pop it in the freezer for an hour before play and let the cold do the soothing work.
Reach for the right toy. Lords & Labradors puppy toys are designed with teething puppies in mind, with textures and resistance that actually satisfy the urge to gnaw. A toy that feels good to chew is one that gets used.
Keep play sessions structured. Short, calm sessions are your friend. Overstimulation turns even the gentlest puppies mouthy, so watch for the signs and wind things down before they tip over the edge.
Build in calm-down breaks. If your puppy is too fired up to redirect, a quiet pause in their crate or pen gives them a chance to reset.
Every redirect counts: puppies learn through repetition, so the more consistently you make the swap, the faster it sticks.
Setting your puppy up for success really comes down to managing their environment and energy before biting becomes the default outlet. Keep appropriate chews within easy reach, keep play sessions manageable, and trust that small, consistent moments genuinely add up.
When normal mouthing becomes a problem worth getting help for
Most puppy biting is completely normal, and with consistency, it does ease off. But it’s worth pausing every now and then to ask whether something more might be going on.
If your puppy’s biting still feels relentless after weeks of calm, consistent redirection, it’s worth talking to a qualified trainer. The same applies if bites are regularly hard and don’t seem connected to play, if your puppy snaps when anyone goes near their food, toys, or bed, or if their reactions feel more fearful than excited. None of that makes them a bad puppy. It just means you’d both benefit from a little extra support.
Pain is worth considering too. Teething can make puppies genuinely sore and out of sorts, and some pups bite more simply because they’re uncomfortable. If your puppy seems distressed beyond the usual nipping and wriggling, a quick vet check is a sensible place to start.
One of the most useful things you can do in the meantime is learn to read what your puppy is telling you before the biting even begins. Spotting the early signals makes it so much easier to respond well. Our guide to understanding your dog’s body language is a really helpful starting point.
And here’s the reassuring bit: for the vast majority of puppies, the biting does pass. With patience, the right toys, and a bit of guidance, most pups grow into gentle, settled dogs who’ve figured out how to use their mouths kindly.
Knowing how long puppies can walk is one of those questions that sounds simple until you are actually standing at the front door with an excitable eight-week-old and no idea how far to go. The answer depends on age, breed, size, and how well you learn to read your puppy’s cues along the way. This guide breaks it all down, from a handy age-by-age walking chart to practical tips for building up distance safely as your puppy grows.
How long can puppies walk? A simple guide for new puppy parents
One of the first things new puppy parents want to know is how long their puppy should be walking each day. It feels like it should have a simple answer. But watch a ten-week-old Labrador tear around the garden and you might assume he could handle anything — when in reality, how long puppies can walk safely has very little to do with how much energy they seem to have.
Age matters most, but breed, size, and overall fitness all shape the picture too. A four-month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has very different needs to a four-month-old Golden Retriever, even if both are equally determined to sniff every blade of grass along the way.
The most widely used starting point is the five-minutes-per-month rule: five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy, then, would walk for around 15 minutes at a time. It is not a rigid law, but it exists for good reason. Puppies have soft, still-developing growth plates in their bones, and too much repetitive exercise before those plates close can cause real, lasting joint damage. A puppy who seems full of energy is not necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for long walks.
This is especially worth keeping in mind in those early weeks, when everything is new and you are still finding your rhythm together. If you are just bringing your puppy home for the first time, walks are only one small part of what lies ahead — and there is absolutely no rush to do too much, too soon.
The five-minutes-per-month rule, plus a handy age-based walking guide
The five-minutes-per-month rule is one of the most widely shared pieces of puppy advice, and honestly, it’s earned its reputation. It gives you a simple, sensible starting point for figuring out how long puppies can walk at each stage of development. The idea is beautifully straightforward: allow five minutes of walking per month of age, up to twice a day. A three-month-old puppy gets around 15 minutes per session; by five months, you’re looking at closer to 25.
Puppy Age
Max Walk Duration (Per Session)
Notes
8 weeks
5 minutes
Short sniff-and-explore outings only. Very gentle to start.
3 months
15 minutes
Two short walks daily is plenty. Prioritise new sights and smells over distance.
4 months
20 minutes
Puppy walking distance starts to increase slowly. Watch for signs of tiring.
5 months
25 minutes
Confidence usually grows here. Keep surfaces soft where possible.
6 months
30 minutes
Still very much a puppy, whatever their size might suggest.
9 months
45 minutes
Larger breeds especially need restraint. Growth plates are still developing.
12 months
45–60 minutes
Smaller breeds may be ready for longer walks. Always assess individually.
Good to Know: This formula is a guide, not gospel. Breed size plays a big role. Giant breeds like Great Danes may actually need less than the formula suggests, because their growth plates take longer to close. And every puppy is different — some flag earlier than you’d expect, while others seem to have boundless energy regardless. Let your individual pup lead the way.
When puppies can go for long walks really depends on breed and development, but most are ready for more substantial exercise somewhere between 12 and 18 months. Worth noting too: conditions like cold weather can cut any walk short, whatever the age. Our guide to walking your dog in cold weather is worth bookmarking before the temperature drops.
No formula replaces actually watching your puppy. If they’re lagging behind, flopping down mid-pavement, or suddenly very interested in stopping — that’s your cue to turn for home.
Why some puppies need less — or more — walking than others
The five-minute rule gives you a brilliant starting point, but every puppy is different. Breed, body shape, and a handful of other factors all influence how long your puppy can safely walk — so it’s worth looking beyond age alone before you lace up your trainers.
Breed size and growth rate: Larger breeds like Labradors and Golden Retrievers grow faster and carry more weight through their joints, making them more vulnerable to overexertion than smaller breeds at the same age.
Flat-faced breeds: Bulldogs, Pugs, and French Bulldogs overheat and tire more quickly due to restricted airways, so their walks often need to be shorter and slower.
Short-legged breeds: Dachshunds and Basset Hounds have a different skeletal structure that puts extra pressure on their spines and limbs, especially on uneven ground.
Weather and heat: Puppies struggle to regulate their temperature, so on warmer days it’s worth keeping walks shorter and heading out earlier in the morning before the heat builds.
Terrain: Rough, hilly, or slippery surfaces demand far more effort than a flat pavement stroll, even if the distance looks the same on paper.
General health: Any illness, recent vaccination, or growth-related condition can change what your puppy can comfortably handle on a given day.
One thing that catches a lot of new puppy parents off guard: a puppy who seems full of energy isn’t necessarily a puppy whose body is ready for more. Growth plates — the soft areas of developing bone — remain vulnerable to stress injury well into adolescence, long after your puppy looks completely tireless. Bouncy behaviour isn’t a green light to go further.
Getting this balance right early really does pay off. Tailoring walks to your individual puppy’s needs protects their joints through the most critical window of development, and building a thoughtful routine now sets them up for a happy, active adult life. That investment in regular exercise only becomes more rewarding as they grow.
How to build up your puppy’s walks without overdoing it
Building up walks gradually is one of the kindest things you can do for a growing puppy. It takes a little patience, but the principle is simple: start small, add time slowly, and let your puppy’s body set the pace. Their joints and growth plates are still developing, and pushing too far too soon can cause real, lasting harm.
Start short and stay consistent. Begin with just 5 to 10 minutes per outing, even if your puppy looks ready to run a marathon.
Increase time gradually. Add a few minutes each week rather than making big jumps. Puppy exercise by age should always feel comfortable and well within their limits.
Build in rest breaks. Let your puppy sniff, sit, or simply take a breather. That is not wasted time — it is part of the walk.
Mix things up. A short training stop, a good sniff of the hedgerow, or a gentle play moment all count toward mental and physical enrichment. How much exercise a puppy needs goes well beyond steps.
Choose soft ground where you can. Grass and earth are much kinder on young joints than pavement, particularly for bigger breeds.
Signs your puppy has had enough
Lagging behind or pulling toward home
Sitting or lying down mid-walk
Heavy or laboured panting
Limping or favouring a leg
Reluctance to move forward
How far puppies can walk matters far less than how well they recover afterwards. Quality always beats distance. Long walks will come — you will know your puppy is ready when they bounce home looking like they could do it all again. If you have just welcomed a new puppy and want to get the basics right from the start, our bringing a new puppy home guide is a great place to begin.
Off-lead or on-lead: what’s best for puppy walks right now?
For young puppies, on-lead walking is almost always the safer choice — and not just for the obvious traffic reasons. Walking on the lead teaches your puppy to move calmly beside you, builds focus, and helps them take in the big, noisy world without getting completely overwhelmed. It also keeps distance in check. A puppy charging after every smell, stranger, or squirrel is covering far more ground than it looks, which can quietly tip into too much exercise for joints that are still developing.
That said, off-lead time absolutely has its place. Secure, enclosed spaces where your puppy can sniff freely and potter about at their own pace offer something a structured walk simply can’t — unstructured exploration that’s genuinely tiring in the best way. It’s mentally stimulating, physically gentle, and great for confidence. The catch is recall. A puppy who doesn’t come back reliably yet is better off on a long line than given full freedom in open spaces. Get that foundation solid first, then gradually extend the trust.
Whatever setup works for you right now, good gear makes the whole thing easier. A well-fitted harness spreads pressure across the chest rather than the neck, which matters a lot when your puppy is still figuring out how to walk on a lead without bouncing off it. Paired with a quality lead — like the Lords & Labradors Herdwick Dog Lead — even a short walk feels calm and in control. The right kit really does take the friction out of those early walks, for both of you.
